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TR3-TR3B Installation Instructions For TR3 from TS13052E through TR3B (“High port” TR3’s) PART # 150-128 MOSS MOTORS, LTD. 440 Rutherford St. Goleta, CA 93116 1-800-235-6954 • FAX 805-692-2525 • www.mossmotors.com

Tools: picking up a tool. If you do not feel 100% • TR3 Shop manual confident in your ability to install this kit, • Strap Wrench pay a professional to do it for you. Moss • Thread sealer or Teflon tape Motors may be able to recommend a shop in • Phillips screwdrivers your area. • Flat-blade screwdrivers Vehicle shown in most of the illustrations • Torque wrench up to 65 ft-lbs is a TR3 with a steering rack conversion • 3/16” Allen wrench and an electric conversion. Although • Hack saw or cut-off wheel the pictures do not look identical to your • Wire cutters, strippers and crimpers vehicle, they are more than adequate • Side cutters (dikes) for this install. Focus on the parts that • 1/4”, 3/8”, & 1/2” ratchets look similar to your , rather than the • 3” and 6” extensions for above differences. ratchets During installation, we will be changing • Combination wrenches and sockets lines. Also, after installation, the fuel in the following sizes: tank will need to always be refilled with 91 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, octane fuel. So, empty the either 13mm, 17mm. by running the car close to empty or by 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2”, draining the fuel tank before beginning 9/16”, 5/8”, 11/16”, 3/4”, 15/16”, supercharger installation. Never smoke or 1-1/8”. work around open flames. 9/16” swivel socket or universal If your car is + (positive) ground (earth), joint we will be converting it to – (negative) 13/16” socket ground (earth) during this install. You must follow the extra steps in the back of these You must have a shop manual to complete instructions on how to rewire various this install. These instructions focus on the components to work with – (negative) installation of this supercharger system ground (earth). and not disassembly of the stock engine. Note: Your engine should be in good Refer to the shop manual for more detail mechanical condition and should have on disassembly or components having to a recent tune up. It should have good do with a stock vehicle, i.e. torque specs, compression in all cylinders. Your wiring, hose/cable routing, ect... Read should also be in good and understand these instructions before condition. We sent our distributor out to be

150-128 -1- Revised 01/16 TR3-TR3B Supercharger Installation Instructions

checked. We had 10 degrees of mechanical advance for every 1000rpm, with total mechanical advance of 28 degrees coming in by 3000-3200 rpm. Your engine mounts should be in good condition. Replace them if they are not. Excessive engine rock can cause damage to you, your vehicle, or the supercharger.

1. Use a timing light to check total timing advance. Rev your engine until the timing stops moving. This is your total Illustration 5 advance. All of your advance should be in before 3500rpm. Take note of the total 6. Remove the cooling fan using a timing number and RPM it was achieved at. 7/16” socket. Then rotate your distributor to achieve 30 degrees total advance. On our car, this was 7. Use a screwdriver to remove the inlet achieved at ~1 degree base timing. fuel line from the . Then remove the fuel line to the mechanical fuel 2. Disconnect both battery cables. and then remove the mechanical .

3. Place the vehicle on jack stands to 8. Disconnect the choke cable. Remove allow access to the underside of the car. the linkage at the firewall-mounted throttle linkage cross tube. Then remove 4. Remove the front apron from the the hose from the distributor’s vacuum vehicle, referring to the shop manual. advance diaphragm. Illustration 4 9. Remove the manifold with the attached. Set aside the intake manifold attachment clamps and nuts for later reuse. If necessary, replace the intake/ . This would require removing and replacing the exhaust manifold as well. A new gasket set is provided. Illustration 9 5. Drain the cooling system. Remove the radiator by disconnecting the top and bottom hoses. Release the bolts on either side at the base of the unit and release the tie rods at the top. Remove the right- hand side radiator tie rod completely and remove the right-hand side horn as well. Save the hardware that you remove for later reinstallation.

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10. Remove the accelerator pedal return spring. Do not skip this step. If left in place the return spring could cause the throttle to stick. Illustration 10

Illustration 12

11. Remove the heater hose from the block-mounted heater control valve. Then remove the hose from the hose barb at the firewall. Illustration 11 13. Disconnect the two wires at the back of the generator. Loosen all of the generator bolts and the generator link bolt. Remove the . Remove the generator link and the generator. The generator hardware will not be reused. Illustration 13

12. Use a 5/8” combination wrench to remove the heater valve extension pipe. Use a hacksaw or cut-off tool to shorten the heater valve extension pipe. Shorten the pipe from 6” to a length of about 1.75” inches. Apply thread sealer or Teflon tape to the threads of the heater valve extension pipe. Then reinstall the heater valve extension pipe.

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Illustration 14 cont

Illustration 13 cont

15. Use a strap wrench and a 3/4” combination wrench to remove the water pump pulley nut. Use a pulley puller if necessary. Then use a 9/16” socket and a 3” extension to remove the water pump mounting nuts.

16. Clean the gasket surfaces. Install a new water pump gasket and the provided water pump from the kit. Install the new water pump pulley, securing it into place 14. Use a 3/4 inch combination wrench with locknut that comes with the pump. and a 7/8” combination wrench to remove the generator mounting pedestal from Illustration 16 the front engine plate. Use a 1/2 inch socket or combination wrench to remove the generator mounting bracket from the .

Illustration 14

17. Use two 7/16” combination wrenches to loosen the six fan hub extension retaining bolts. Use a 1-1/8” socket to break the bolt loose. Rotate the crank until the on the crank pulley lines up with the timing cover

150-128 -4- Revised 01/16 TR3-TR3B Supercharger Installation Instructions pointer. Remove the crank pulley bolt, the 18. Install the six bolts through the rear fan hub extension, the crank hub pulley side of the crank pulley. Slide the crank hub and the two plates that make up the crank pulley over the bolts and into the recess on pulley. It is critical that you align the timing the front side of the crank pulley. Slide the mark with the pulley before you remove the crank pulley/crank hub assembly over the pulley. If you do not align the marks you end of the crank shaft. NOTE: The timing may have trouble setting your timing when tab will have to be bent as necessary to this install is complete. clear the crank pulley. You should try to have at least 1/8” of clearance between the timing tab and the crank pulley. Make sure the timing mark on the pulley is aligned with the tab on the timing cover. If not, remove the pulley from the hub and re-clock it so that it is. Again, this is critical for setting .

Illustration 17

Illustration 18

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19. Reinstall the fan hub extension using the provided nuts and lock washers. Torque the nuts to 10 ft-lbs. Then install and torque the crank pulley bolt.

20. Bolt the tensioner plate assembly to the engine. For the 5/16” upper bolt, there will be the bolt, a lock washer, a flat washer, the tensioner plate and a washer on the back side of the idler plate followed by the water pump housing. For the 7/16” lower bolt, there will the bolt, then a flat washer, then the tensioner plate, Illustration 20 cont the tensioner plate standoff (tall spacer), then the engine plate, a flat washer, a lock washer and a nut. Torque the 5/16” upper bolt to 17 ft-lbs. Torque the 7/16” lower bolt to 55 ft-lbs. Illustration 20

21. Loosen the 7/8” or 22mm nut on the provided . Install the provided alternator fan and alternator pulley onto the provided alternator. Then install the alternator nut. Tighten the nut to 45 ft-lb. You will need to hold the fan from turning while tightening the nut. We have had

150-128 -6- Revised 01/16 TR3-TR3B Supercharger Installation Instructions good luck holding the fan with a carefully positioned rag and using an impact to tighten the pulley.

Illustration 21 Illustration 22

22. Mount the alternator bracket to the engine block with the supplied 5/16”-18 x 23. Slide a flat washer over the 4” long 3/4” bolts (coarse thread) bolts, lock and 5/16” alternator mounting bolt. Set the flat washers, finger tight. Then insert the provided alternator into place and run the 4” long upper mounting bolt through the 5/16” bolt through the upper ear of the tensioner plate and the alternator mounting alternator, through the tensioner plate, bracket. This will allow you to align the through the upper alternator mounting hole in the alternator bracket to the hole bracket and past the other ear of the in the tensioner plate bracket. Push the alternator. The rear ear of the alternator alternator bracket forward so that the tube has an adjustable bushing built into it and at the top of the alternator bracket is flush that bushing may need to be adjusted to with the backside of the tensioner plate. properly fit the alternator to the alternator Then tighten the three mounting bolts to bracket. Then slide a washer & lock washer 17 ft-lbs. The 4” long alternator mounting and thread a nut onto the long 5/16” bolt. bolt should still slide freely with the bolts Illustration 23 tightened. Now remove the bolt so that the alternator can be mounted using it.

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24. For the bottom bolt on the alternator, we have supplied both a fine and coarse threaded 5/16” bolt. Use the appropriate bolt for how the specific alternator that came in your kit is threaded. If your alternator has threads in its mounting ear, use a lock washer and a flat washer on the bolt and thread it into the alternator from the backside. If your alternator does not have threads in the lower mounting ear, then use a flat washer on both sides, with a lock washer and a nut on the end. Leave both alternator mounting bolts finger-tight. Illustration 25 cont kit. They will be tightened in a later step when serpentine the belt is installed. 26. Since we replaced the generator with the internally regulated alternator, the 25. On the back of the generator you regulator (or generator control box) removed a larger diameter wire (yellow) is no longer needed and must be bypassed. with a large female spade connector and Remove the large diameter solid yellow a smaller diameter wire (yellow/green) with wire from terminal “D” at the regulator. a smaller female spade connector. On the Attach the yellow wire to the “A” terminal. back of the alternator, there are two larger- This is the alternator “charging” wire. See style terminals and one 1/4” smaller style Illustration 27 terminal in a row. You can plug the spade connector from the larger diameter solid 27. Remove the yellow-with-green- yellow wire into either one of the larger stripe wire from the voltage regulator terminals on the back of the alternator. You terminal “F”. This was the “F” or field wire will need to plug the spade connector from for the generator and is now the indicator the smaller diameter yellow-with-green- light wire for the alternator. stripe wire into the smaller 1/4” terminal Remove the yellow wire (thin gauge) from on the back of the alternator. If your terminal “D” at the regulator. This is the connectors are missing or damaged, we ignition warning light or charge warning have provided two spade connectors in the light wire. Place a male 16 gauge (blue) Illustration 25 spade connector on one of the wires and a female 16 gauge (blue) spade on the other wire using a crimping tool. Connect the yellow and yellow/green wires together with the spades. The ignition or charge warning light should operate just as it did with the generator.

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Illustration 27 Illustration 28

28. Remove the using a Phillips screwdriver (and a helper inside the car holding a 7/16” or 3/8” wrench if your car does not have captive nuts). Place the starter solenoid relocation plate in the area where the starter solenoid was. Drop two 1/4” fine thread bolts into the two large holes in the starter solenoid relocation plate. Slide a larger fender-style 1/4” flat washer and a 1/4” lock washer over each of the two bolts from inside the car. Then thread on two 1/4” fine thread nuts (this will be easier with a helper). Use a 7/16” deep socket and a 7/16” combination wrench to 29. Attach the starter solenoid to the tighten the bolts and nuts. starter solenoid relocation plate using provided 8-32 x 0.50” bolts, including a flat washer and a lock washer on each bolt. You may have to loosen the connections on the starter solenoid in order to rotate it so that the terminal connection points face the

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battery. Once the starter solenoid has been bolted down, retighten the connections. Illustration 29

Illustration 31

30. If you had a positive ground car, you will need to take the battery out and rotate it around 180 degrees so that the positive side of the battery is closest to the starter solenoid and the negative side is closest to the ground strap. Hook the lead from the starter solenoid to the positive side of the battery. Leave the ground strap leading to the negative side of the battery disconnected at this time. Illustration 30

31. Attach the firewall throttle bracket 32. Use axle grease to lube the throttle cable to the firewall using the existing holes near generously. Do not remove the cable from the the starter. The order of components (under housing, because it is very difficult or impossible hood side first) should be 5/16 fine thread to get the cable back in. Just put the grease bolt, flat washer, firewall throttle bracket, on the exposed cable and run it back and the firewall 5/16” fender washer (7/8” outer forth several times to ensure the entire cable is diameter), lock washer and nut. Finger greased. If this step is skipped the throttle petal tighten the bolts. will be notchy.

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33. Now install the 90 degree end of has been tightened. 34. Move the firewall the throttle cable into the firewall throttle throttle cable bracket so that the throttle cable bracket. Put a flat washer on a 1/4”- cable trunnion and bracket are aligned and 28 x 1.00 inch bolt. Slip the bolt through there is a straight shot from the mounted the horseshoe trunnion on the end of the trunnion to the throttle cable sheathing. throttle cable. Thread the bolt into the Once the cable is aligned, then tighten the firewall-mounted throttle linkage cross two 5/16 bolts of the throttle cable bracket tube just enough that the threads of the to 19 ft-lbs. provided Nyloc nut will engage the threads Illustration 34 of the bolt. Making sure that the Nyloc is engaged on the threads, tighten the Nyloc nut so that the bolt cannot spin. NOTE: the horseshoe trunnion should still be free to rotate on the bolt after the Nyloc nut

35. Adjust the 90-degree end of the throttle cable to the far end of its adjustment so that it is as far away from the firewall as it can be adjusted. Then use Illustration 33 two 7/16 combination wrenches to tighten the nuts on the throttle cable so that the 90 degree section of the cable is facing downward toward the ground.

36. Fuel pump installation: Apply Teflon tape or sealer to the provided 5/16” 90-degree fitting. Use 1/2” and 9/16” combination wrenches to attach the 90-degree fitting to the provided fuel pump from the kit, opposite the end. Apply Teflon tape to the straight 5/16” fitting and attach it to the fuel filter side. Attach a provided 3/8” ring terminal to the black wire of the fuel pump. Then put a female spade connector on the light brown wire of the fuel pump. See Illustration 37

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37. Remove the right rear wheel. Use Illustration 37 cont a 9/16” combination wrench and a 9/16” socket, 6 inch extension and a ratchet to remove the rear Armstrong shock bolt and nut. Then put the cylindrical fuel pump bracket from the fuel pump box around the body of the fuel pump. Slide the Armstrong bolt through the bracket, through the ring terminal on the black wire of the fuel pump, through the chassis and through the Armstrong shock. Now reinstall the nut. The filter on the fuel pump should be pointing down and perhaps slightly backwards. This is a suggested location of the fuel 38. Cut a 16” length of provided fuel pump. You can mount it any where near hose. Slide two hose clamps over one end the gas tank, to any existing bolt or use a of the hose and one hose clamp over the self tapping screw. There should be plenty other end of the hose. Install the end of the of fuel hose and electrical wire for different fuel hose with the two clamps on the hard placement of the fuel pump. Make sure the line coming from the fuel tank. Install the inlet is lower than the outlet. end of the hose with the one clamp onto the fuel filter side of the fuel pump. Tighten all clamps. Illustration 38

Illustration 37

39. Take the remainder of the provided fuel line and run it from the 90 degree fitting on the top of the fuel pump along the right- hand chassis frame rail up to the engine

150-128 -12- Revised 01/16 TR3-TR3B Supercharger Installation Instructions compartment. Follow the path of the brake Illustration 42 line. Avoid anything sharp and go through rubber grommets when possible.

40. Attach a male spade to the end of the provided 154 inch long 14 gauge red wire. Connect the male spade to the female spade on the brown wire of the fuel pump. Run the red wire next to the path of the fuel line all the way up to the engine compartment. Make sure that there are 43. Plug the female spade from the fuse no sharp edges that could cut the wire. holder onto the male terminal #30 of the Zip tie the red wire and the fuel hose to the . Then plug female spade connector undercarriage of the chassis and frame, but from the yellow 18 gauge wire onto male leave the hose and wire free in the engine terminal #85 of the relay. Then plug female compartment. spade connector from the black 18 gauge Illustration 40 wire onto male terminal #86 of the relay. Illustration 43

41. Replace the right rear wheel and 44. Remove the bolt just below the turn torque the lug nuts to factory spec. signal flasher, located right next to the voltage regulator. Slide the bolt through the 42. Locate the provided relay and fuse eyehole on the relay and attach it back into holder in the kit. If it is not already there, place on the car. Attach the black wire to plug the provided 5 amp fuse into the fuse a nearby chassis ground. This will serve as holder. Attach a blue (14 gauge) female the fuel pump relay ground. See Illustration spade connector to one end of the fuse 47 holder. Attach a red (18 gauge) female spade connector onto the end of the 8 inch 45. Route the red 14 gauge fuel pump yellow wire. Attach a red (18 gauge) female power wire up from under the chassis to spade to one end of the 5 inch black wire the fuel pump relay. Secure it to the car and a 18 gauge 5/16” ring terminal to the using the provided zip ties for a clean other end. installation, taking care to avoid any sharp edges. Trim the end of the red 14 gauge

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fuel pump power wire to length so that tightening down any of them. It will be it stops at the relay location. Attach a 14 easiest to start with the two bottom clamps, gauge female spade to the red fuel pump washers and nuts. Then install all of the rest power wire. Then plug the 14 gauge female before tightening them all to 30 ft-lbs. You spade connector on the red fuel pump will need a 9/16” combination wrench, a power wire into terminal number 87# on the 9/16” swivel socket (or U-joint and socket) relay. See Illustration 47 and a 6” extension. You may need to use the supplied shims on your manifold/header 46. Strip 1/4” of insulation off of the so that the manifold clamps tighten down yellow 18 gauge wire. There are two fuses evenly against the intake and exhaust. just below the voltage regulator. The fuse Use super glue to attach the shims in the closest to the battery has several green appropriate places if necessary. Note: you wires on one terminal and several white may need different thickness shims for the wires exiting the other terminal. This fuse upper and lower studs depending on your is key-on voltage. Use a flat screwdriver particular manifold/header. to loosen one the of the screws where the green wires are attached, insert the yellow 18 gauge wire and retighten the screw. See Illustration 47

47. Strip 1/4” of insulation off of the free end of the fuse holder. Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the A terminal screw on the voltage regulator. Insert the wire and then turn the terminal screw. Shim Illustration 47 Illustration 48

48. Make sure the provided intake manifold is clean and clear of debris. If machining debris is present, wash the 49. Route the throttle cable down manifold in hot soapy water. Use the stock towards the starter, back up towards the intake manifold hardware to install the firewall and then up in between the throttle provided supercharger intake manifold. lever and the side of the firewall. The cable Make sure that all of the clamps, washers should be pointing up toward the hood. and nuts are all started on the studs before

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Illustration 50

Illustration 49 51. Separate the cap of the supercharger nose support assy. Attach the lower supercharger support to the front side of the tensioner plate. Use two 5/16” x 1” fine thread bolts, a 5/16” flat washer, then have the blower nose support, then have another 5/16” flat washer, a 5/16 lock washer and a 5/16” nut. Torque the 5/16” bolts to 19 ft-lbs. Illustration 51

50. Gather the supercharger assembly, the intake manifold to supercharger gasket, four M8 x 20mm bolts, four M8 lock 52. Install the cap of the supercharger washers and four M8 flat washers. Slide the nose support assembly using two 1/4” lock washers and then the flat washers over Allen head fine thread cap screws. Torque the bolts. Lay the gasket into place over the bolts to 10 ft-lbs. the bolts. Hold the supercharger assembly in place while threading in the top two M8 bolts, each with a lock washer and flat washer in between the bolt head and intake manifold. Then thread in the bottom two bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20 ft-lbs.

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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS DRAWING IS THE SOLE PROPERTY OF MOSS MOTORS. ANY REPRODUCTION IN PART OR WHOLE WITHOUT THE Illustration 52 WRITTEN PERMISSION OF MOSS MOTORS IS PROHIBITED. Illustration 53

F F

E E

D D

C C

53. Find the provided serpentine belt. The belt runs from the crank pulley up to the idler pulley that is just below the B water B pump, around the water pump pulley under the tensioner pulley, up to and around

MOSS MOTORS MANUFACTURING the supercharger pulley, down to the idler PART NAME SHEET PART NUMBER A C ___?______?___ A MATERIAL CREATION DATE REVISION ___?______?___ ORIGINAL

FINISH DRAWN BY REVISION DATE pulley, down to the alternator pulley and ___?___ DAVID WILLIAMS UNITS PHONE NUMBER REVISED BY INCHES (805) 679-7032

TOLERANCE SCALE FILE PAGE X.XXX+/-0.005 X.XX+/-0.010 1-1 ___?___ 1 OF 1 back to the crank pulley. You may need to8 54.7 Remove6 one of5 the jam4 nuts from3 the 2 1 loosen the tensioner pulley so that the belt free end of the throttle cable. Run the other can be installed on all of the pulleys. Also, jam nut to the center of the threads. Insert if you ever have to use a longer belt, extra the cable through the throttle cable bracket length can be taken up by loosening the attached to the bottom of the carburetor. alternator and rotating it. With the belt in Reinstall the jam nut. Run the throttle cable place, finger tighten the center tensioner around the bell crank and into the throttle pulley bolt. Run the jam nut up the cable anchor. Do not tighten the throttle tensioning bolt. Tighten the tensioning bolt, cable anchor yet. thus tightening the belt, until spinning the water pump pulley by hand also turns the Illustration 54 crank and accessories. Now using a 17mm combination wrench to tighten the jam nut of the tensioner and pulley bolt.

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Illustration 54 cont 56. Have an assistant sit in the car and gently press the pedal down until it stops moving. Confirm by placing your thumb on the bell crank and pushing down, that the throttle has opened completely. Adjust if necessary. Once the pedal height is set, adjust the throttle stop on the firewall below the throttle pedal so that when the throttle pedal is fully depressed against the throttle stop, the throttle is fully wide open at the carburetor. Now fully tighten the throttle cable anchor.

57. Find the fuel pressure regulator 55. Pull the throttle cable through the provided in the kit. It is preset to 4.5 psi. anchor tightly so that the throttle linkage on Find the fuel line that was run under the car the vehicles firewall is close to the firewall in previous steps. It will likely be lying in the throttle cable bracket. Then go inside the engine compartment or under the car. Use car and set the pedal height right about the 4 self-tapping screws to install the fuel where you want it to be. We recommend pressure regulator to the chassis, anywhere setting it an inch lower than the brake pedal in the fuel line after the fuel pump, so that when braking the throttle pedal is preferably in the engine compartment, but not too high. Once the throttle height is out of harm’s way. Run the fuel line from set, use two 7mm combination wrenches the pump to the “In” side of the regulator to gently tighten the anchor to the throttle cutting the fuel line as necessary. Run the cable just enough to hold it in place. Do not remaining fuel line from the “Out” side of fully tighten at this point. the regulator to the fitting on the float bowl of the carburetor. Use hose clamps on all attachment points. Use the remaining provided zip-ties to attach the fuel hose to the chassis, allowing some slack to account for engine rock. Illustration 57

Illustration 55 Out

In

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58. Run the hose on the distributor’s 60. Find the 30” long float camber vacuum advance to the “Tee” fitting that overflow tube in the kit. The tube is lies between the supercharger bypass provided the so that overflow can be routed diaphragm and the carburetor mounting away from the exhaust. Remove the small plate. You will find 5/32” rubber hose in the piece of hose from atop the float chamber. kit for this purpose. Install the 30” over flow tube in its place. Illustration 58 You will need to bend the tube yourself. Make sure the tube never goes higher than the top of the float bowl. Use a tubing bender or bend it over a round object to keep it from kinking.

61. Obtain 12” of provided heater hose. Slide a clamp onto each end. Connect one end to the bulkhead fitting at the firewall and the other onto the cut heater control valve pipe. Trim to fit.

59. Connect your stock choke cable to the underside of the carburetor. Run the cable through the choke and tighten the cable through the cable anchor that is attached to the fixed bracket on the underside of the carburetor.

Illustration 61

62. Fill the dashpot with the supplied 80-90 weight oil until it is about 1/4” from the top of the dashpot, NOT from the top of the “milk can”. NOTE: We have provided Illustration 59 more oil than it will take to fill the dashpot. Do not overfill. If you do overfill, you can use the dampener assembly and a rag to scoop the oil out.

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63. Reinstall your RH-side horn using the 68. If your vehicle was a + (positive) stock hardware. ground (earth) car at the beginning of this install, you need to follow the instruction Illustration 63 on converting to – (negative) ground (earth) found at the end of these instruction (page 21). When you have completed the rewiring of your components, return to and complete these instructions.

69. There are two vacuum ports on the intake manifold provided for your convenience, do not remove rubber caps unless used. Start the engine. Let it warm up and check for coolant leaks and proper operation. The car should start and idle. Slight adjustments may be necessary for your particular application. However, the safe, rich base tune should 64. Reinstall the radiator fan on to the be near ideal for most . That said, fan hub extension. here are the original settings in case you adjust the settings and want to go back to 65. Reinstall the radiator and its hoses. stock. As delivered, the idle air bleed screw should be just over 3.5 turns out. The 66. Fill the cooling system with a proper throttle stop screw should just be touching 50/50 mixture of and distilled the throttle stop, just slightly opening the water. We recommend using Red Line blade by 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn. Having set waterwetter moss part # 220-115. Fill the the jet to be flush with the bottom of the fuel tank with 91 US octane RON+MON/2 carburetor, turn the idle mixture screw 3.5 fuel (or higher if available). Connect the turns down. Backing the mixture screw out negative chassis ground to the negative will lean the mixture. side of the battery. Turn the key on to prime the fuel system. Check for any leaks. 70. Once the car is warm, check the If there are no leaks present, turn the ignition timing to make sure that the crank ignition key back off and lower the vehicle pulley has been installed correctly and to the ground. Make sure the right rear the timing mark lines up properly with the wheel is properly torqued. timing mark. Note that if you are unable to get the timing light to highlight the timing 67. Install the supplied spark plugs. We mark by a large margin, you may have recommend using anti-seize on the threads. installed the crank pulley off by 60 degrees, The gap is .035”. We highly recommend 120 degrees or 180 degrees. installing new spark plug wires, points, condenser and the cap and – all readily available from Moss Motors. You will use a 13/16” socket on the new plugs.

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71. Turn off the vehicle and let it cool down. Top off all fluid levels. Check your work and make sure there is nothing loose. The throttle is operating correctly and retuning to fully closed. Make sure the fuel hose, throttle and choke cables are not rubbing on any sharp edges or being stretched or damaged by engine rock.

72. Reinstall the front apron and bumper. Remember to reconnect the electrical connections for the headlights and turn signals.

73. Test drive the vehicle. Check for detonation or pinging. If any detonation occurs, retard the timing in 2 degree increments until it is completely gone.

74. The base supercharger kit with the 5.87” crank pulley and the 2.67” supercharger pulley should produce 5 to 6 psi of intake manifold pressure or “boost”. This is on a stock 2.1L (86mm ) with a stock exhaust manifold. If you have the smaller 2.0L (83mm pistons) and no engine or exhaust modifications you will probably have more boost. If you have a larger pistons, and or exhaust manifolds you will have less boost. Simply adding a header and large diameter exhaust may cause the boost to drop 1 psi or more. This does not mean you are loosing horse power, it just means the engine is breathing better. We offer a “big boost” supercharger pulley for those who wish to run more boost.

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Converting your Triumph from Positive to Negative Ground

1. If you have an original radio, remove it. It will no longer work with negative ground.

2. If you have an ammeter, you’ll need to reverse the wires connected to it.

3. Some may have a diode across the points rather than a condenser. Reverse the connections to the diode.

4. Reverse the connections going to the : Connect the (-) side of the coil to the wire going to the distributor and the (+) side of the coil to the wire going to the ignition switch.

5. Reverse the connections to the heater fan motor. If you don’t, the fan motor will rotate backwards.

That’s it! It is not necessary to change the leads at the starter motor. The starter uses a series-wound motor that will always rotate the correct way with either polarity.

150-128 -21- Revised 01/16 TR3-TR3B Supercharger Installation Instructions

Bill of Materials for 150-128

Item No. Description Quantity 053-270 BELT TENSIONING SYSTEM 1 053-287 TOP PLATE, BLACK, TR4 SC 1 053-202 TENSIONER PLATE, TR4 SC 1 322-310 BOLT, HEX, 5/16 UNF X 1 1/4 3 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 6 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 3 053-218 BELT TENSION BLOCK, TR4 SC 1 322-075 BOLT, 3/8 UNF X 1 1/2 3 772-826 NUT, 3/8-24, GRADE 8, ZINC 3 052-904 TENSIONER, T-NUT, MIATA MP62 1 051-627 PULLEY, 2.0IN IDLER, NYLON 3 320-275 BOLT, 3/8 UNF X 3 2 324-385 WASHER, FLAT, 3/8 ID, ZINC 5 324-040 WASHER, LOCK, SQ CX, 3/8 IN 5 310-050 NUT, HEX, 3/8 UNF, G5, ZINC 2 051-217 BOLT, HEX, M10 X 1.50 X 60 1 051-215 SPACER, SHOULDER 3 053-246 TENSIONER SPACER, TR4 SC 1 053-247 IDLER STAND, TR4 SC 2 053-249 TENSIONER PLATE STANDOFF,TR4SC 1 322-225 BOLT, 7/16 UNF X 2 1/2 1 324-905 WASHER, FLAT, 7/16 SAE G8 2 324-250 WASHER, LOCK, 7/16 IN 1 310-300 NUT, 7/16 UNF, G8, ZINC 1 052-922 NUT, JAM, M10 X 1.5 1 052-924 BOLT, M10 X 1.5 X 60, HEX HEAD 1 052-610 BLOWER NOSE SUPPORT CROWN 1 052-628 SCREW, 1/4-28 X 1.25, AHCS 2 053-243 SC NOSE SUPPORT CRADLE, TR3/4 1 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2 053-271 ENGINE MOUNTED HARDWARE 1 053-205 WATER PUMP PULLEY, TR4 SC 1 697-080 GASKET, WATER PUMP 1 835-070 WATER PUMP W/O PULLEY 1 052-252 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-18 X 1.0 1 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 7 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 3 053-219 ALTERNATOR BRACKET, TR4 SC 1 322-870 BOLT, 5/16 UNC X 3/4 4 130-400 FAN, ALTERNATOR 1 052-095 PULLEY, ALTERNATOR, 4-RIB 1

150-128 -22- Revised 01/16 TR3-TR3B Supercharger Installation Instructions

Item No. Description Quantity 130-100 ALTERNATOR,18ACR, 45AMP, NEW 1 322-150 BOLT, 5/16 UNF X 5 1 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2 771-643 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-24 X 1.25 1 053-272 SUPERCHARGER & MANIFOLD,TR3 SC 1 053-280 S/C GEN4 MP45CW, 4.09 IN NOSE 1 051-207 SCREW, AHCS, M8 X 1.25 X 25 4 053-261 CARB, SU HD8, MOSS MODIFIED 1 051-127 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 20 4 051-075 WASHER, LOCK, M8 4 051-074 WASHER, FLAT, M8 4 053-239 ADAPTER, HD8 TO MP45, TR3 SC 1 771-490 HOSE BARB, 1/4 VACUUM 1 771-642 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-24 X 1 2 053-222 INTAKE MANIFOLD,MACHINED,TR4SC 1 051-142 HOSE BARB, 5/32 VACUUM 2 051-151 CAP, VACUUM, RUBBER, 5/32 3 051-719 O-RING, VITON, NO. 202 1 051-720 O-RING, VITON, NO. 218 1 051-438 SPRING, AFPR 1 770-572 VALVE BODY, POP-OFF 1 770-573 RETAINER, SPRING 1 770-576 STUD, POP-OFF VALVE 1 770-577 NUT, NYLOC, 1/4-28 1 695-070 GASKET, MANIFOLD, PAIR, HP 1 052-834 INLET GASKET, MP45 & MP62 GEN4 1 052-835 OUTLET GASKET, MP45 GEN4 1 052-840 GASKET, CARB TO MANIFOLD 1 051-389 TEE, VACUUM, 3/16 1 051-551 HOSE, VACUUM, 7/32 IN., BULK 10 051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 5 052-247 STUD, 5/16-18 X 1.25 4 051-446 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNC 4 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 6 053-237 BACKING PLATE, MACHINED, HD8 1 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 2 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2 053-238 BRACKET,CARB TO THROTTLE CABLE 1 053-251 RETURN SPRING BRACKET, TR3 1 053-282 THROTTLE SPRING, TR3-4 SC 1 053-269 GASKET, HD8, CORK,0.15IN THICK 1 377-052 FUEL PUMP KIT, ELECTRIC, TR3 1 052-649 FUEL PUMP, ELECTRIC, TR6 SC 1 832-550 PLATE, FUEL PUMP BLOCK OFF 1

150-128 -23- Revised 01/16 TR3-TR3B Supercharger Installation Instructions

Item No. Description Quantity 697-100 GASKET, FUEL PUMP 1 051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 10 051-101 RELAY 12V 30A SPST 1 771-992 CAP SCREW, 1/4-20 X 1.0, ZINC 2 051-583 WASHER, LOCK, 1/4IN 2 324-590 WASHER, FLAT, 1/4 IN, ZINC 2 772-331 SCREW, #8-18, SELF DRILL&TAP 1 051-474 HOSE, FUEL, 5/16, BULK 122 051-191 CLAMP, HOSE, MINI, SAE NO. 4 10 052-343 FUEL FILTER 1 770-889 WIRE, BLACK, 18 GA. 5 772-335 WIRE, 14 GAGE, RED 154 771-276 WIRE, YELLOW, 18 GA., BULK 8 052-078 FUSE HOLDER, 12 GA, INLINE 1 772-336 FUSE, 5 AMP 1 051-387 SPADE CON, FEMALE, 22-18 GA 8 051-395 SPADE CON, MALE, 18-22 GA 5 052-651 RING CONN,18-22GA,5/16STUD 1 772-848 RING TERMINAL, 3/8 TO 16GA 2 161-615 CONN, FEMALE SPADE, 16-14 GA. 10 161-620 CONN, MALE SPADE, 16-14 GA. 10 051-212 HOSE BARB,1/8NPT X 5/16 X90DEG 2 771-467 WIRE, BROWN, 16 GAUGE 3 053-294 FUEL PRESSURE REG SET 4.5PSI 1 053-291 REGULATOR,FUEL PRESSURE,HOLLEY 1 053-292 3/8 MALE PIPE TO 5/16 HOSEBARB 2 053-293 3/8 MALE PIPE PLUG, BRASS 1 053-276 HARDWARE & HOSE BAG, TR3 SC 1 220-136 REMOVABLE THREADLOCKER, BLUE 1 323-165 SCREW, 8-32 X 1/2, CHR 2 772-849 LOCKWASHER, ZINC, #8 2 315-150 WASHER, FLAT, #8 2 772-270 BOLT, HEX, 1/4-28 X 0.75,GRD-8 2 770-787 WASHER, FENDER 2 770-812 NUT, STANDARD, 1/4-28 2 052-277 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.14 THICK 6 052-278 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.06 THICK 6 052-279 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.03 THICK 6 052-280 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.02 THICK 6 051-583 WASHER, LOCK, 1/4 IN 6 310-760 NUT, HEX, 1/4 UNF, G5, ZINC 6 052-321 BOLT, HEX, 1/4-28 X 1 2 053-209 STARTER SOLENOID RELOC PLATE 1 322-040 BOLT, 5/16 UNF X 3/4 2 770-774 WASHER, FENDER, .313X1.25X.125 2

150-128 -24- Revised 01/16 TR3-TR3B Supercharger Installation Instructions

Item No. Description Quantity 770-577 NUT, NYLOC, 1/4-28 2 324-590 WASHER, FLAT, 1/4 IN, ZINC 2 320-080 BOLT, 1/4 UNF X 1 3/8 6 053-256 CRANK PULLEY, 5.87, TR4 SC 1 053-281 BELT, GATES K060663, 1685 1 053-254 PULLEY, TR3-TR4 SC, 2.67 1 053-253 THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET, TR3SC 1 053-209 STARTER SOLENOID RELOC PLATE 1 052-337 OIL, SAE 90 WEIGHT 2 052-336 BOTTLE, FLUID, 2 OZ 1 053-286 SPARK PLUG, NGK BP7HS 4 051-257 HOSE, HEATER, 1/2 IN., BULK 12 051-259 HOSE, VACUUM, 5/32 IN., BULK 60 053-241 THROTTLE CABLE, TR3/4 SC 1 540-280 PLUG KIT, ALTERNATOR 1

150-128 -25- Revised 01/16