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SAIC SHARP INSTRUCTIONAL SHOP

Sewing HANDBOOK

Instructional Fabrication

Instructional Fabrication is a division of The Department of Instructional Resources & Facilities Management (IRFM) THE MACHINE THE Trouble Shooting The Table of Contents

Symptom Problem Solution Symptom Problem Solution

Light does not come on Machine has no power Connect power cord to Skipping stitches TheTension: Parts has been Empty and reload sewing machine and to wound on a bobbin that is outlet not empty The Parts cont. Turn machine on Timing Take machine to tool Winding the Bobbincheckout Switch out power cord and foot pedal The needle thread is a Needle & bobbin thread different material than must be made of the Placingthe bobbin the thread Bobbin same material & must Light bulb has expired Take machine to tool be the same wieght check out Top stitches look fines,Retrieving Bobbin is threaded the inThread the Change bobbin direction Fabric dimples from Broken needle Change needle but thread tangles on wrong direction in bobbin case threads being pulled bottom side of fabric in the fabric Final Steps

Machine is not Bobbin winder is engaged Disengage the bobbin winder Sewing Safety advancing Stitches of Interest Machine has no power Turn machine on and Hemming check for light. If light Trouble Shooting Page does not turn on, bring it to tool check out. StitchesWoven of fabrics Interest

Patching and repair work

If you cannot find a solution to the Zig Zag: - strength problem, please bring the machine back to The Sharp Instructional Shops. Straight: seams, , and topstitching

17 18 THETHE SEWINGSEWING MACHINEMACHINE Sewing Safety The Parts A needle that has caused a puncture wound is a health hazard. Notify a manager immediately and stay with the Make sure the machine is off and unplugged before changing 1 Thread cutter machine until a manger has responded. or threading a needle. 4 6 2 adjustment 5 2 4 3 Thread up-take lever 3 2 8 3 4 Spool retainer Animal hides must be7 properly tanned for use with the sewing machine. 5 Thread tension dial

Set up the sewing machine in a way that cords do not present 6 Bobbin stopper a tripping hazard.

9 7 width dial 1 8 Stitch length dial 10

Never12 sew over a . This can break the needle tip. Stop indicator window 9 13 sewing, remove the pin, and then continue to sew.

10 Reverse sewing lever Always remember to guide the fabric, never pull the fabric. 11 GuideRemovable the fabric accessory with your bin hands on either side of the presser foot. 12 Pressure foot 11 13 Needle plate To prevent electric shock, never use the sewing machine in 14 14 Bobbin or near water.

153 164 THE SEWING MACHINE THE SEWING MACHINE

Final Steps The Parts cont. Begin Sewing Secure Stitch 4 Turn on the machine. Gently engage foot pedal to To secure the begining1 and end Presser of a , foot sewlever begin sewing.7 The more you depress the pedal,5 the 3 forward a few stitches. Then press the reverse faster the machine will go...... so do not floor it. sewing lever to sew over2 the precedingFace plate stitches. Release the lever and continue to sew forward. 2 3 Upper thread guide 6 4 Bobbin thread guide 8 1 5 Horizontal spool pin

6 Handle

7 Bobbin winder Final Step 9 needle thread Normal thread tension for 8 Handwheel

sewing. bobbin thread When you are finished sewing the stitch length, release the presser foot9 and pullPattern the fabric selector gently dial away from the machine. If thread does not pull from the machine easily,10 rotate Power the handwheel and light switch Thread tension too loose for needle thread while gently pulling until the thread is released. straight stitch sewing. Turn When you are finished with your sewing project, 10bobbin thread 11 Main plug socket dial to a lower number. turn off the machine. 11 12 Foot pedal

Thread tension too tight for needle thread 13 Power cord straight stitch sewing. Turn bobbin thread dial to a higher number. 12 13

135 146 THETHE SEWINGSEWING MACHINEMACHINE RetrievingWinding the the Bobbin Thread

Place the thread and spool retainer onto spool pin. 1 1 Turn machine OFF 3 Hold thread end gently. Step on the foot pedal. before threading.

2 Pull both threads under the presser foot toward the back of machine. 3 Hold the needle thread with one hand. Turn hand wheel forward to retrieve thread. Wind thread clock-wise Thread bobbin and place thread. Press bobbin winder to 2 around bobbin thread bobbin on bobbin winder. 4 the left and remove. guide.

Adjust the needle thread tension for each new project. The bobbin and needle threads should meet in the middle of the fabric. Press bobbin winder to the right and engage with Low numbers = lesser tension bobbin stop. High numbers = tighter tension

bobbin stop 4 is a good starting point for medium weight fabrics.

7 8 11 12 THE SEWING MACHINE Placing the Bobbin

Remove accessory bin. Open the hinged Insert the loaded bobbin into the case with cover to expose the bobbin case and its shuttle. the thread traveling in the same direction as the slit.

shuttle

Retrieve the bobbin case using the latch on Place the bobbin into the shuttle with the the front of bobbin case. bobbin shuttle arm in the upright position.

shuttle

9 10 THE SEWING MACHINE RetrievingWinding the the Bobbin Thread

Place the thread and spool retainer onto spool pin. 1 1 Turn machine OFF 3 Hold thread end gently. Step on the foot pedal. before threading.

2 Pull both threads under the presser foot toward the back of machine. 3 Hold the needle thread with one hand. Turn hand wheel forward to retrieve thread. Wind thread clock-wise Thread bobbin and place Cut thread. Press bobbin winder to 2 around bobbin thread bobbin on bobbin winder. 4 the left and remove. guide.

Adjust the needle thread tension for each new project. The bobbin and needle threads should meet in the middle of the fabric. Press bobbin winder to the right and engage with Low numbers = lesser tension bobbin stop. High numbers = tighter tension

bobbin stop 4 is a good starting point for medium weight fabrics.

7 8 11 12 THE SEWING MACHINE THE SEWING MACHINE

Final Steps The Parts cont. Begin Sewing Secure Stitch 4 Turn on the machine. Gently engage foot pedal to To secure the begining 1and end Presser of a seam, foot sew lever begin sewing.7 The more you depress the pedal,5 the 3 forward a few stitches. Then press the reverse faster the machine will go...... so do not floor it. sewing lever to sew over2 the precedingFace plate stitches. Release the lever and continue to sew forward. 2 3 Upper thread guide 6 4 Bobbin thread guide 8 1 5 Horizontal spool pin

6 Handle

7 Bobbin winder Final Step 9 needle thread Normal thread tension for 8 Handwheel

straight stitch sewing. bobbin thread When you are finished sewing the stitch length, release the presser foot9 and pull Pattern the fabric selector gently dial away from the machine. If thread does not pull from the machine easily,10 rotate Power the handwheel and light switch Thread tension too loose for needle thread while gently pulling until the thread is released. straight stitch sewing. Turn When you are finished with your sewing project, 10 bobbin thread 11 Main plug socket dial to a lower number. turn off the machine. 11 12 Foot pedal

Thread tension too tight for needle thread 13 Power cord straight stitch sewing. Turn bobbin thread dial to a higher number. 12 13

135 146 THETHE SEWINGSEWING MACHINEMACHINE Sewing Safety The Parts A needle that has caused a puncture wound is a health hazard. Notify a manager immediately and stay with the Make sure the machine is off and unplugged before changing 1 Thread cutter machine until a manger has responded. or threading a needle. 4 6 2 Presser foot adjustment 5 2 4 3 Thread up-take lever 3 2 8 3 4 Spool retainer Animal hides must be7 properly tanned for use with the sewing machine. 5 Thread tension dial

Set up the sewing machine in a way that cords do not present 6 Bobbin stopper a tripping hazard.

9 7 Stitch width dial 1 8 Stitch length dial 10

Never 12sew over a pin. This can break the needle tip. Stop Pattern indicator window 9 13 sewing, remove the pin, and then continue to sew.

10 Reverse sewing lever Always remember to guide the fabric, never pull the fabric. 11 RemovableGuide the fabric accessory with your bin hands on either side of the presser foot. 12 Pressure foot 11 13 Needle plate To prevent electric shock, never use the sewing machine in 14 14 Bobbin or near water.

315 164 THE SEWING MACHINE THE SEWING MACHINE Trouble Shooting The Table of Contents

Symptom Problem Solution Symptom Problem Solution

Light does not come on Machine has no power Connect power cord to Skipping stitches TheTension: Parts Thread has been Empty bobbin and reload sewing machine and to wound on a bobbin that is outlet not empty The Parts cont. Turn machine on Timing Take machine to tool Winding the Bobbincheckout Switch out power cord and foot pedal The needle thread is a Needle & bobbin thread different material than must be made of the Placingthe bobbin the thread Bobbin same material & must Light bulb has expired Take machine to tool be the same wieght check out Top stitches look fines,Retrieving Bobbin is threaded the in Thread the Change bobbin direction Fabric dimples from Broken needle Change needle but thread tangles on wrong direction in bobbin case threads being pulled bottom side of fabric in the fabric Final Steps

Machine is not Bobbin winder is engaged Disengage the bobbin winder Sewing Safety advancing Stitches of Interest Machine has no power Turn machine on and Hemming check for light. If light Trouble Shooting Page does not turn on, bring it to tool check out. StitchesWoven offabrics Interest

Patching and repair work

If you cannot find a solution to the Zig Zag: embroidery - strength problem, please bring the machine back to The Sharp Instructional Shops. Straight: seams, zippers, and topstitching

17 18 SAIC SHARP INSTRUCTIONAL SHOP

Sewing Machine HANDBOOK

Instructional Fabrication INSTRUCTIONAL Instructional FabricationFABRIC isAT a divisionION of The Department of Instructional Resources & Facilities Management (IRFM)