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Automated Cutting and Sewing for Industry 4.0 at ITMA 2019

Automated Cutting and Sewing for Industry 4.0 at ITMA 2019

Special Issue: ITMA, 2019

Automated Cutting and for 4.0 at ITMA 2019

Minyoung Suh Wilson College of , NC State University Raleigh, NC, USA

Introduction an apparel product is manufactured. Raw An apparel product is one of the material takes 50-70% of the total product consumer goods that have a large number of cost (Vilumsone-Nemes, 2018b), but a fragmented supply chains. It starts from compromise in quality and quantity of fabrics selection, proceeds to and fabric is not under consideration since it directly production, and ends up with apparel influences the quality of a final product. . In many cases, there are Instead, the viable solution to reduce the several additional industries involved in the fabric cost is to realize the most efficient processes to finish the final product that marker through accurate and precise cutting. produce trimming, finding, , On the other hand, sewing is known to take and many other accessories. 35-40% of the total cost (Gries & Lutz, Apparel manufacturing is labor- 2018). Sewn product manufacturers have intensive and has been accomplished by lowered the labor cost down through global highly-skilled manual operations using supply chain management over the past traditional materials and equipment. The decades by locating their production facilities major operations are categorized into three in developing countries. However, this groups; pre-production, production and post- business strategy became difficult to production (Nayak & Padhye, 2018). Pre- maintain due to recent changes in global production processes focus on the labor market. There are urgent needs to find preparation of necessary materials and alternative solutions to overcome this. Hence, services, and include line planning, sample to provide a high-quality product at an development and approvals, sourcing, and affordable price, it is necessary that the production scheduling. During the cutting and sewing processes are automated production, fabrics are spread, , bundled, by the advanced machinery. and sewn. Several post-production tasks are Automation improves productivity as followed to get sewn products ready for well as the quality of fashion products by consumers such as pressing, inspection, minimizing human intervention and folding, packaging, etc. Apparel production preventing potential human mistakes during still relies on manual practices much as it was manufacturing. Automated systems can be a few hundred years ago (Burns, Mullet, & achieved by embedding a new system or Bryant, 2011). technique between or within the existing Cutting and sewing are unique iconic electronic devices (Nayak & Padhye, 2018). tasks in apparel manufacturing, which are The examples of the new system or technique highly labor dependent and therefore include mechanized fabric handling, expensive. According to Burns, Mullet, and computerized techniques, automatic sewing Bryant (2011), fabric purchase and cut-and- and robots. They assist smooth sew labor are the two largest expenses when automatic transitions of workpieces between

Article Designation: Special Issue 1 JTATM ITMA, 2019

processes or during a process. Several stages by a control unit. In modern cutting devices, of apparel manufacturing can benefit from cutting tables are equipped with a vacuum the application of automated systems. system to hold the material down and Focusing on the technological enhance cutting accuracy during the cutting presented in the recent process. Porous materials, such as most of machinery tradeshow ITMA 2019, this textiles, have to be cut with an impermeable article demonstrates the advanced state of cover because of this. According to automation in apparel manufacturing. There Vilumsone-Nemes (2018a), suction blowers were six sub-sections established under the are the component that consumes the most garment making system. Those were product power in cutter operations. development equipment; shrinking, fusing, Various cutting are and cutting; sewing; sewing supplies and available for a cutting device, such as consumable; product finishing. Cutting and computer-controlled knife, laser, water jet, sewing are the major areas of observations, plasma, or ultrasound. Knife cutters are and multiple examples of automated suitable for multi-ply cutting of heavy textile equipment are reported to highlight key materials and have been most widely adopted features of technical innovations in cutting by textile product manufacturers and sewing automation. (Vilumsone-Nemes, 2018a). The knife cutting head is equipped with multiple Automation in cutting cutting tools: knives, notch tools, drill With an increasing demand of mass punches, and markers to meet diverse cutting production, the cutting room in an apparel and marking demands. Laser cutters are the manufacturing facility has been constantly second most methods in textile cutting and automated by several inventions of new frequently adopted for single-ply cutting. It machinery. Spreading machine carried a roll can create anti-fray edges on thermoplastic of fabric over the table and drastically materials which are most of synthetic reduced the human workforce. Introduced in including polyester and nylon. Diverse the early 1900s, die cutters increased cutting treatment effects are attainable, such as efficiency and quality dramatically as well. cutting, kiss cutting, and marking, through With the appearance of numerically controlled laser intensity. The choice of controlled (NC) machine in 1940s and 1950s, cutting method depends on the properties of continuous cutting became possible. This led materials as well as the complexity of to a greater flexibility in production as well required contours to be cut. as more economic use of material. Later on, The most important consideration in digital created computer the configuration of automated cutting numerically controlled (CNC) machine and system is whether a single ply or multiple other supporting tools such as CAD/CAM plies of fabrics would be cut. Single-ply programs. This steady and persistent effort cutting enables continuous processes and made the cutting room evolved into the most eliminates the presence of spreader since the advanced department in the apparel fabric can be fed to the cutting area directly manufacturing industry (Vilumsone-Nemes, from a roll. A conveyorized cutting table is 2018b). used for increased productivity, where the Most systems in automated cutting cutting continues with the advance of the have a similar configuration, where a cutting cutting surface. With the moving surface, an device is housed in a carriage that is attached extra-large component exceeding the length to a crossbar over the cutting table. The of cutting table is possible to be cut in this carriage moves along the crossbar across the configuration. width of the cutting table, while the crossbar When multiple stacks of a fabric are moves along the length of the table. These spread to cut, stronger cutting power is movements let the cutting device travel over required, of course, than single-ply cutting. the cutting area, and are managed precisely An oscillating knife maximizes the cutting

Article Designation: Special Issue 2 JTATM ITMA, 2019

capability by moving up and down as the the existing cutting technology. The major knife advances. The depth of oscillating fields of new developments observed at stroke ranges from 5mm to 200mm ITMA 2019 could be summarized into three (Vilumsone-Nemes, 2018a) and needs to be aspects; productivity, versatility, and engineered according to the cutting matching capability. conditions. Serkin Tekstil introduced the To enhance productivity, some intelligent knife which oscillates not only up automated cutters are equipped with an and down, but also from side to side. This additional cutting device and crossbar, which additional motion of the knife is helpful to cut performs synchronized and simultaneous pieces accurately across the thick stacks of cutting. According to Kuris multiple textile layers. Due to the oscillating Spezialmaschinen GmbH (2010), dual motions of the knife, the surface of cutting cutting heads can save up to 40% of cutting tables must be loose enough to support the time. Another example of increased movement. In case of multi-ply cutting with efficiency is the implementation of an an oscillating knife, the surface of a cutting automatic labeler, and this system was table is made of bristles, which is typically a presented by Morgan Technica and Serkon static flatbed table. This static cutting Tekstil at ITMA 2019. Labelers are configuration ensures higher cutting incorporated into cutters to human accuracy than conveyorized surfaces. mistakes and confusions during unloading Since Gerber Technology introduced processes followed after cutting. The the first fully automated cutting system in stickers, of different dimensions according to 1960s, automated cutting market has been the needs, are thermally printed and placed in matured and become much competitive over the middle of each cut piece (Figure 1). This the several past decades. The main areas of makes the necessary information including current are related to elaborated bar codes immediately visible on the cut sub-functions or supplementary assistance to pieces.

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Figure 1. Automatic labelers by Morgan Technica (a) and Serkon Tekstil (b)

Aiming at the versatile use of a single the carrier in a few quick easy steps for cutter, Zund adopted modular tooling (Figure specific cutting operations. The available 2a) in their automated cutters, with which the options are extremely wide including electric configurations of cutting device can be or pneumatic oscillating tools, rotary or knife changed interactively by the user. Various blades, laser modules, perforating or creasing cutting devices are selected and mounted on tools, and marking or plotting modules.

Article Designation: Special Issue 3 JTATM ITMA, 2019

Eurolaser presented an automated textile could stabilize the fabric and create smooth cutting system specialized for wool fabrics lint-free cut edges. This cutter also based on laser technology (Figure 2b). incorporated dual cutting devices of laser and Called “Cut’n Protect Technology”, their a blade for versatile applications to textiles. cutter was equipped with a steamer which

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Figure 2. Modular tooling by Zund (a) and laser wool cutting by Eurolaser (b)

Traditionally, pattern matching was outcomes. Often called “visual nest”, the attained by preparing sectioned markers and latter technology helps the operator view and having two separate cutting steps, rough edit markers in a real time, checking a marker cutting and fine cutting (Vilumsone-Nemes, image projected on the fabric surface before 2018a). Although these processes were time- cutting (Figure 3b). The operator can relocate and labor-consuming, pattern matching or reorient pieces to match intricate fabric accuracy was still elusive, and unnecessary patterns or manipulate with engineered material wastes were generated between patterns. Since the operator still performs a rough and fine cutting. Several companies, significant role during the processes, these such as Zund, Morgan Technica, Kuris, and systems are considered as semi-automated. Gemini, have invested efforts to develop The key technology of Kuris pattern matching hardware and software and highlighted at ITMA 2019 was the integrated demonstrated the improved pattern matching camera system that records and recognizes capability in ITMA 2019. the material to be cut. Photographed images In an automated system, pattern of fabric surface are processed to calculate matching can be achieved either by cutting coordinates. This technology enables generating an on-screen image of the fabric a single-ply cutter to perform even without patterns over the marker table or projecting markers in cases of garment patterns printed images of markers on the fabric. In the former by a sublimation method (Figure 3c). Based method, fabric prints are scanned by an on the imaging technology, their leather- optical device on the cutting head and cutter can also detect the arbitrary contours of imported to the marker making software. a leather piece, determine different qualities Garment patterns are placed and a marker is of surface conditions, and auto-nest markers prepared over the fabric image (Figure 3a). directly on the leather matching the quality This allows the operator to optimize cutting zone (Figure 3b). parameters for accurate and precise cutting

Article Designation: Special Issue 4 JTATM ITMA, 2019

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Figure 3. Pattern matching system: CAD software by Zund (a), visual nest in leather cutting by Kuris (b) and sublimation print cutting by Kuris (c)

Automation in sewing took place mostly (79%) manually in textile

Production processes involved in product plants. None of the plants handled garment assembly are divided into two sub- material automatically, while only 21% functions; handling of material and joining of companies employed semi-automatic fabric components. In garment systems. When a piece of is manufacturing, significant time and labor are manufactured, the handling time is about spent in material handling, such as lifting, 80% of the overall production time, and moving, mounting, re-positioning, and re- approximately 80% of the factory cost is orientating of cut or semi-finished fabric related to the handling cost (Gries & Lutz, components. Considering quality assurance 2018). in productions, it is critical to handle There are several gripping those with a precise and gentle treatment in technologies based on either vacuum, an economic and efficient way (Lutz, Fruh, Bernoulli gripper, needles, or rollers (Lutz, Gries, & Klingele, 2018). In commercially Fruh, Gries, & Klingele, 2018). In vacuum available workstations, loading is mostly grippers (Aminpour, 2017), the gripping manual, while sewing and unloading elements are connected to a pneumatic pump processes are somewhat automated (Jana, and in contact with the gripping material. The 2018). pressure difference allows the gripping Compared to bend-resistant materials, material to adhere to the suction pads. the handling of flexible material is Bernoulli grippers enable contactless significantly more challenging. Due to the gripping by creating Bernoulli effect with the softness of the textiles, the material easily direct use of compressed air. In needle deforms impermissibly even under a very grippers, needles penetrate the materials at an small pressure, such as dead weight or air angle and are interlocked with the material to resistance. According to Szimmat, (2007), grip. Roller systems often employ freezing material handling during product assembly and surface grippers, which create temporary

Article Designation: Special Issue 5 JTATM ITMA, 2019

adhesion using Peltier elements and Sewing represents the most important electrostatic effects, respectively. textile joining technology, taking 85% of all However, these advanced gripping joining methods (Gries & Lutz, 2018). Not technologies are not yet popularized in much different from the ancient times, assembly systems of textile products. It was sewing is still dependent on highly-skilled reported that 72% of current semi-automatic labor for manual operations, and takes 35- handling system does not employ grippers, 40% of the total cost (Gries & Lutz, 2018). and the remaining 28% use needles or scrap Over the past a few decades, sewn product grippers (Szimmat, 2007). The only similar manufacturers lowered the production cost application found in ITMA 2019 was the down by relocating their production facilities picking pad (Figure 4) demonstrated from an in developing countries with low wages. on-going project in a Barcelona-based However, this business strategy is nearing the company named AB Industries. In their end of its lifetime as the market conditions system, workpieces are floating about an inch have changed much recently. Labor costs are over a table surface since the surface is rapidly increasing in many developing structured with bristles. This allows a 360- countries. There is a global shortage of degree robotic arm to scoop the workpieces skilled labor, and consumer behavior changes up easily with a simple gripping element. faster than ever pushed by fast fashion trends. According to the personnel on duty in ITMA Therefore, garment manufacturing industry is 2019, this technology is currently under urged to strive for sewing automation. development and not yet matured for The most popular and widely adopted commercialization. automated sewing configuration observed at ITMA 2019 was the conventional mounted on the fabric processing machinery such as a winding or calendaring unit. Several companies including Texma and Comatex used these configurations to finish edges, join fabric rolls, or make a tubular structure from a fabric roll (Figures 5a and 5b). Monti-mac supplies a series of mobile sewing machine for this configuration (Figure 5c). Pneumatic-power supply is adopted in some sewing units in case that wet processes are involved simultaneously during sewing operations. The common types used for these applications are either chain (100 or 400 class) or (500 class) stitches since sewing machine for those stitch Figure 4. Picking pad by AB Industries types is equipped with continuous supply of bottom threads that does not require to stop the machine to load the threads.

Article Designation: Special Issue 6 JTATM ITMA, 2019

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Figure 5. Roll-joining configuration by Texma (a), tube-making configuration by Comatex (b), and movable sewing device by Monti-mac (c)

Automatic changing system is bobbin checker uses a unique bobbin coded an innovative solution for increased with a specific combination of RGB colors efficiency in sewing. In lock stitch machine (Figure 6a). As the bobbin spins during (301 stitch type), a fully-loaded bobbin lasts machine operations, a light sensor monitors for less than 20 minutes in continuous sewing the color sequence and detects usual bobbin (Jana, 2018) and frequent changes of movement or errors when the bobbin runs out have been a notorious bottleneck in sewing. of threads. In the bobbin changing unit shown The automatic system runs based on two at ITMA 2019 (Figure 6b), a magazine-type principles; checking the remaining amount of bobbin station sits nearby with 15 filled bobbin threads and replacing with a filled one bobbin cases ready, and one space out of 16 once the predetermined amount of remaining slots remains empty for changeover to take is reached. place. This leads to minimal production RSG Automation Technics stops, in which the sewing machine stops demonstrated a fully-automatic bobbin only for 6-8 seconds each time for bobbin exchanger in ITMA 2019. Their patented exchange.

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Figure 6. Automatic bobbin exchanger by RSG Automation Technics: color-coded bobbin (a) and magazine-type station (b)

Article Designation: Special Issue 7 JTATM ITMA, 2019

The principles of automated sewing sewing field is basically limited by the vary depending on the geometry of sewing physical dimensions of the linear axes in the paths. 2-dimensional seams can be easily machine. Large machine may handle a created by computer numerical control sewing area up to 3m by 3m, while small (CNC) sewing technology, where a single or machine can cover the space less than 10cm double mobile sewing heads advance over by 10cm (Gries & Lutz, 2018). Large CNC textiles along the previously programmed sewing machine is for a blanket or a seam path. For more complicated cases to mattress (Figure 7a). A typical example of convert 2-dimensional fabrics into 3- small-sized machine is applied when care or dimensional seams, the sewing head is brand labels are automatically stitched into guided by a robot in 3-dimensional space clothing (Figure 7b). along the sewing paths while the fabrics are Current advances in automated sewing positioned in a 3-dimensional shape. system are limited to certain operations However, in many of these cases, two fabric during the sewing process. Various semi- pieces have different contours or curvatures automated sewing automats and units are along the seam to be joined. This type of commercially available from many suppliers, seams need to be handled by positioning the such as , Rimac, and Durkopp Adler. At fabrics 3-dimensionally and applying ITMA 2019, Juki demonstrated a series of different tension to the fabrics in every stitch. automatic sewing machine to stitch , In a 2D-sewing configuration, one or , and bartacks, while Rimac more layers of textiles are stitched within showcased automatic machine to fixed sewing frames. The handling of flexible finish round corners of bedding and material is avoided by clamping the fabric automobile floor mats (Figure 8). The pieces into the holders. The holder guides the workpiece is rotated at corners through a sewing head into X- and Y-directions motorized arm to create a constant curvatures following a programmed seam contours. This with the textile tape automatically inserted sewing configuration is mostly used for through a feeding unit. ornamental and design seams. The size of

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Figure 7. Quilting machine by Mammut (a) and label attaching machine by Juki (b)

Article Designation: Special Issue 8 JTATM ITMA, 2019

Figure 8. Automatic binding machine by Rimac

Durkopp Adler group introduced a they clamp workpieces during the operations. modular production system at ITMA 2019 by Being a semi-automatic configuration, it still demonstrating a double welt pocket automat remains to the operator to align and feed the shown in Figure 9. A welt pocket is produced pieces to the system. For fully-automated by a two-needle lock stitch head with a center solutions, it is state of the art that sewing knife cutter and needle feed mechanism machine has its own feeding system which (Jana, 2018). Sewing frames with a fixed transports and positions the workpiece to a seam path are hired for template sewing and clamping position.

Figure 9. Semi-automatic modular production system by Durkopp Adler

Not participating in ITMA 2019, system (Figure 10a). A four-axis robotic arm Softwear Automation Inc. recently can lift and place a piece of fabric using a introduced a fully-automated sewing system, vacuum gripper (Figure 10b), while a called “Sewbot”. The major technological conveyor table can feed the fabric into a innovation is the integration of advanced sewing unit. The table is equipped with the computer vision systems, which tracks spherical rollers, called “Budger Ball” individual threads at the needle and (Figure 10c) embedded to the surface. coordinates the precise movement of the Thanks to these, each fabric piece can go on fabric (Jana, 2018). Sewbot handles a fabric smoothly in any direction over the table as by a robotic arm and a 360-degree conveyor needed.

Article Designation: Special Issue 9 JTATM ITMA, 2019

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Figure 10. Fully-automated production system by Softwear Automation Inc. (DevicePlus, 2018): sewing machine arrangement (a), vacuum gripper (b), and “Budger Ball” (c)

A Canada-based company, Automatex, not yet adopted in garment production lines. demonstrated a full-automated pillowcase Having considered that, the production production unit at ITMA 2019, where demonstration carried out by an Italian sequential production tasks of trimming, company, ACG Kinna Automatic, provided folding, stitching, labelling, and packaging the most futuristic and impressive scenes for are completed within a single unit. Similar automated production. A fully-automated systems are present by Magetron, Texpa, and system named “Borsoi” was handling 3- Schmale for towel production. So far, dimensional products, a pillow, using robots. commercially available production systems Specifically, it completed picking up a with full-automated production capability are pillowcase (Figure 11a), securing the limited to planar textile products, such as opening of a seam (Figure 11b), stuffing the towel, bedding sheets, and . pillowcase (Figure 11c), transporting the Sewing heads need to be mounted on pillow (Figure 11d), closing the opening and controlled by robots for 3D-sewing (Figure 11e), and packing a finished product operations. Since many processes and steps in a plastic bag (Figure 11f) in a single of semi-automatic machine have to be continuous production line (Figure 11g). All incorporated, it is difficult to maintain workpieces are handled and advanced economical and flexible production. Due to a forward between each task by robotic arms large scale of investment, robotic systems are with clamps.

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Article Designation: Special Issue 10 JTATM ITMA, 2019

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Figure 11. Fully-automated pillow production system by ACG Kinna Automatic

Concurrent completion of more than Industry 4.0 is a strategic initiative one production task is a key consideration for introduced by the German government in current development and advances in 2011 (Rojko, 2017). Industry 4.0 is triggered automated sewing system. For this, sewing by the fact that the previous attempts to lower machine has to be implemented within the the manufacturing cost are almost exhausted existing flow of other operations involved in and new strategies are needed. According to the middle of assembly processes, such as Bauernhansl, Krüger, Reinhart, and Schuh stuffing feeders or seam pressers, as shown in (2016), Industry 4.0 factory can save the multiple cases at ITMA 2019. Therefore, the costs by 10-30% in production, 10-30% in configuration of automated sewing system logistic, and 10-20% in quality management. relies on a product design and its production Other expected outcomes are a shorter lead plans. Each production system may have to time, an improved customer responsiveness, be customized for different apparel products. affordable mass customization, worker- Efforts in product standardization would be friendly environment, and more efficient use helpful to lessen this burden, and there are of natural resources and energy (Rojko, companies like RSG Automation Technics 2017). Especially, Industry 4.0 solutions who offers a system customization service provide key technologies to produce smart for textile product plants. textiles, where the largest growth is expected in . The global market for Textile Industry 4.0 smart textiles is forecasted to become three Textile industry had led the first billion USD by 2026 (Hayward, 2015). industrial revolution in 1800s, which brought Aiming to innovate the current the transition from handcraft production industrial production system through systems to manufacturing systems based on digitalization and exploitation of new mechanical power generation. The second technologies, the main idea of Industry 4.0 is industrial revolution was carried by modern smart automation based on interoperability electrified devices that made industrialization and connectivity. The important element is and mass production possible. The third the application of generic concepts of Cyber- revolution was based on advanced Physical Systems (CPS) and Internet of technologies in digitalization and Things (IoT) to industrial production automation. Production lines became systems. Production facilities are cyber- equipped with programmable . The physical systems, which are physical current era is going through the transition equipment integrated with information and toward the fourth industrial revolution. technology (ICT) components. Autonomous systems are able

Article Designation: Special Issue 11 JTATM ITMA, 2019

to make their own decisions for self- Terminals positioned at each workstation organization and self-optimization based on provide the detailed analytics of a production machine learning algorithms and real-time progress in real time and reduce time to react data (Kusters, Prab, & Gloy, 2017). to problems. Transparent Electronic Tech Networked systems integrated into (TPET) also proposes smart factory platform apparel manufacturing machinery were for home . Their system introduced in ITMA 2019. Juke Advanced consists of a series of digital machinery Network System (JaNets) is software in interconnected with each other to combination with supporting hardware, manufacture products, monitor facilities, where sewing machine in a production line is carry out analytics, and transport equipment interlinked to provide data on production as well as materials (Figure 12b). This activities. Digital sewing machine (Figure enables predictive maintenance of 12a) is an essential component to manufacturing facilities based on big data detailed sewing data including error codes. acquisition and analysis.

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Figure 12. JaNets by Juki (a) and smart factory platform by TPET (b)

Based on the technical advances in Conclusion digital technology and manufacturing The technological innovations automation, the concept of on-demand presented in ITMA 2019 were summarized to garment design and production has been highlight the advanced state of automation in proposed by many researchers (Aminpour et apparel manufacturing. The most trend in al., 2017; Suh & Lee, 2012), where an apparel cutting is the use of optical imaging product is manufactured after the customized technologies, and the cutters are becoming order is received. The system would consist more productive, versatile, and precise. of apparel design database and a series of Compared to cutting, the development of manufacturing machinery for , sewing automation is still in a primitive cutting, and assembly. Smart automation is stage, where only a limited sewing capability essential to reduce the cost and shorten the is feasible in automated configurations. The lead time. This must be a ground-shaking most consideration in automated sewing is innovation in textile and apparel business the seamless integration of customized once the whole system becomes features into the existing production lines. commercialized and technically stabilized. It is obvious from ITMA 2019 that textile and apparel industry is making a steady progress every day towards the 4th industry revolution and Industry 4.0.

Article Designation: Special Issue 12 JTATM ITMA, 2019

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Article Designation: Special Issue 13 JTATM ITMA, 2019