MY BERNINA MASTERY BOOK SERIES SEWING MACHINES BERNINA SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK For BERNINA 335, 325, 215 ©2019 BERNINA of America. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only. Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding. 12062019 My BERNINA BERNINA SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK TABLE OF CONTENTS REFERENCE - SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES ..26 INTRODUCTION .......................................... 3 REFERENCE - SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PREPARING TO STITCH ............................... 4 CHART ................................................... 27 STITCH SELECTION ...................................... 5 REFERENCE - THREADS ............................. 28 NEEDLE STOP UP/DOWN-FREE HAND REFERENCE - DECORATIVE STITCHING .... 29 SYSTEM ................................................... 6 REFERENCE - CLEANING AND OILING ..... 30 PATTERN FUNCTIONS - PATTERN END ....... 7 ALTERED STITCHES ..................................... 8 TEMPORARY ALTERED MEMORY .............. 9 MIRROR IMAGE - LEFT/RIGHT .................. 10 TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH ......................... 11 VARI-OVERLOCK STITCH .......................... 12 B 335 BASTING STITCH ....................................... 13 BLIND HEM ............................................... 14 STRETCH STITCH ....................................... 15 BALANCE ................................................... 16 MANUAL BUTTONHOLES ......................... 17 B 325 AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE PROGRAM .. 18 MEMORY BUTTONHOLES ....................... 19 B 215 ATTACHING BUTTONS .............................. 20 STITCHING ZIPPERS ................................... 21 COMBINING STITCH PATTERNS ................ 22 PROGRAMMING ALPHABETS AND NUMBERS .............................................. 23 FREE-MOTION STITCHING ........................ 24 The information in this workbook applies to the BERNINA Sewing Machines models shown here. REFERENCE - BERNINA PRESSER FEET ..... 25 NOTE: Some exercises apply only to certain models equipped with the feature being highlighted. 2 My BERNINA BERNINA SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK INTRODUCTION Welcome! Learning to use your new machine to its fullest capabilities will let you enjoy your machine for many years. Understanding your machine’s features and learning its navigation will maximize your creativity. While you will be learning some basics, you’ll also be learning some creative techniques, and we hope both will be inspirational. Along with your machine's manual, this workbook is designed to take you on a step by step journey into your machine's capabilities. Once completed, the workbook can serve as a technique reference guide. Stitched samples can be attached to the pages or inserted into sheet protectors, if desired. You will find additional resource materials in the back of this workbook. While this may be the beginning of your educational journey, there are other opportunities to grow creatively. BERNINA of America strives to provide quality sewing and embroidery machines while offering the best educational experience possible. Along with providing My BERNINA Classes, your local BERNINA dealer stocks BERNINA reference books, such as the Big Book of Feet. Instructional video tutorials are available on bernina.com and the BERNINA YouTube channel. You will also find inspiring sewing projects on the BERNINA blog WeAllSew. com. For more information about machines and accessories, visit the BERNINA website at bernina.com. www.bernina.com www.weallsew.com 3 My BERNINA BERNINA SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK PREPARING TO STITCH CLEANING AND OILING Keeping your machine clean and well oiled will keep it running smoothly and is a crucial component for successful machine stitching. Refer to Page 30 for cleaning tips. Your machine manual will also give you detailed cleaning and oiling suggestions. STITCH PLATE Attach the 5.5 mm Stitch Plate: Standard accessory for B 335, 325, 215 PRESSER FOOT • Attach the shank with Reverse Pattern Sole #1 to the machine. (Refer to Page 25 Reference-BERNINA Presser Foot for more information about BERNINA Presser Feet.) RAISE FEED DOG The feed dog will be raised when sewing. INSERT AND THREAD NEEDLE (Refer to Page 26-27 Reference-Threads for additional information.) • Use the proper needle for the thread and fabric being used. It is advisable to insert a new needle for each project, or after every 8 hours of sewing time. • Always thread with the presser foot up. This opens the tension discs and allows the thread to seat properly. THREADING TIPS FOR MODELS WITH BOTH HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL SPOOL PINS: • Use the horizontal spool pin with cross-wound threads; match spool cap size to end of spool. • The smallest spool cap fits into the end of large cones/spools such as Isacord embroidery thread. • Use the vertical spool pin with stacked threads and for some decorative threads (metallic threads); use the foam disc under the spool to avoid extra tension on the thread. THREAD THE BOBBIN FOR SEWING • Generally, you will wind the bobbin with the same thread/thread weight that you will use in the needle. • Open the bobbin cover and grasp the latch of the bobbin case. Remove the bobbin case. • Insert the newly wound bobbin into the bobbin case so that the thread runs clockwise. Pull the thread counterclockwise into the slot. Then pull the thread to the left under the spring until it lies in the T-shaped slit at the end of the spring. The bobbin must turn clockwise. • To insert the bobbin case, hold the bobbin case latch. The finger on the case should point upwards. Insert the case so that it clicks into place. Pull the thread over cutter A and cut. Close the bobbin door. NOTE: The bobbin thread does not have to be brought up as the loose end is the right length to start sewing if you have cut the thread with the cutter. 4 My BERNINA BERNINA SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK STITCH SELECTION Selecting a Stitch - B 335, 325 1. For stitch patterns 1 through 10: • Press the numbered button of your choice; stitch number and default width and length settings appear, as well as the recommended presser foot. • Press 0 to select Stitch Number 10 (standard buttonhole). 2. For stitch patterns 1-99 (B 335) / 1-40 (B325): • Press the # button and enter desired stitch number. 3. For stitch patterns 100 and beyond (B 335): • Press # button twice and enter desired stitch number. Selecting a Stitch - B 215 1. For stitch patterns 1 through 11: • Touch the numbered button of your choice; stitch number and default width and length settings appear on the LCD Display, as well as the recommended presser foot. Details of the Screen (1) Stitch width (basic setting always visible - blinks) (2) Stitch length (basic setting always visible - blinks) (3) Needle Position (9 positions) (4) Needle Stop Up/Down Display (5) Stitch Pattern Number (6) Recommended presser foot for selected stitch (7) Satin stitch recommendation for dense, short zig-zag stitch 5 My BERNINA BERNINA SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK NEEDLE STOP UP/DOWN-FREE HAND SYSTEM Firm woven fabric, 4” x 6”, two pieces 80/12 Universal Polyester or cotton embroidery thread Center Reverse Pattern Sole #1 1. Attach Reverse Pattern Sole #1. NOTE: The BERNINA foot control is an optional accessory 2. Select the Straight Stitch #1. for the B 335, 325, and 215. A tap of the toe will make the needle take one full revolution. A heel tap will raise or 3. Touch the Needle Up/Down Button on the machine. lower the needle. Each push of the button will set the Needle to stop in the Up position or in the Down position as noted on the The Free Hand System is an optional accessory for the B 335 screen. only. • This setting remains until changed, even if the machine is turned off. 4. To lower or raise the needle, press and hold the Needle Up/Down button. The needle will raise and lower. This does not affect the Needle Up/Down setting. 5. Sew a line of stitching and stop in the middle of the fabric. 6. Raise the Take Up Lever and pivot to form at least 2 right angle corners and 2 additional corners. • When pivoting, use the FHS (Free Hand System - optional accessory for B 335 only) to raise the presser foot. HOW Do you know how to: • Raise and lower the needle without using the handwheel? • Set the needle to always stop in the down position? 6 My BERNINA BERNINA SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK PATTERN FUNCTIONS - PATTERN END Firm woven fabric, 4” x 6” Lightweight tear-away stabilizer 4” x 6” 80/12 Universal Polyester or cotton embroidery thread Default Open Embroidery Sole #20 For B 335 and 325 ONLY NOTE: Refer to Page 29 Reference-Decorative Stitching for 1. Attach Open Embroidery Sole #20. more tips for decorative stitching. 2. Place the stabilizer behind the fabric. 3. Select the satin stitch hearts stitch #25 (B 325) or #44 (B 335). 4. Sew 3½ patterns, pausing in the middle of the fourth pattern. 5. Press Pattern End and start sewing again. The machine will stop stitching when the pattern is complete. • Tip: To make sure you have a complete pattern, depress the foot control and do not lift your foot until the machine stops. 6. Press clr. HOW Do you know how to: • Stitch a complete pattern? 7 My BERNINA BERNINA SEWING MACHINE WORKBOOK ALTERED STITCHES Firm woven fabric, 4” x 6” Lightweight tear-away stabilizer 4” x 6” 80/12 Universal Polyester or cotton embroidery thread Default Open Embroidery Sole #20 Instructions Below for B 335 and 325 ONLY B 215: Pick any stitch (#2 through #9) and experiment with the length and width settings. 1. Attach Open Embroidery Sole #20. 2. Place the stabilizer behind the fabric. 3. Select