THE BOULDERING ISSUE • Launch of the Boulder Project • Ways to Involve Boulderers in Your LCO We All Have Our Obsessions, Our Boulder Projects

Home , Bouldering, Petzl, Rock climbing, Tommy Caldwell

THE NATIONAL PUBLICATION OF THE ACCESS FUND VOLUME 57, APRIL 2004

THE BOULDERING ISSUE • Launch of the Boulder Project • Ways to Involve Boulderers in Your LCO We all have our obsessions, our boulder projects. Lying awake in bed chasing the shad- ows with our hands, memorizing the sequence by moonlight. We visualize our project and its completion over and over in our minds. The moves, which at one time were impossible, seep into the realm of attainable. “Next season,” we tell ourselves as we sip our last cup of joe at the Kava Coffeehouse before heading down Highway 395 out of Bishop. Access to boulders is not eternal, though. Our hardest challenge might not be the dyno to a one- handed mantle sequence, but mastering the techniques of awareness and respect - for land, for life, for one another, for ourselves. The Boulder Project, a national initiative facilitated by the Access Fund in cooperation with climbers, the climbing industry, land managers, and local activists, creates synergy in the climbing community to ensure that boulder projects remain open even after all of us have sent our problems. This isn’t your typical Access Fund initiative – no overt Access Fund-driven educational campaign. To that end, broad-based involvement is of utmost importance. Not only is it important for all segments of the climbing industry to rally around the Boulder Project from a moral standpoint, but also it will bring the youth and the energy of the bouldering community into the growth and development of the industry, thus affecting access, thus affecting environmental and ecological concerns. It’s a symbi- otic objective. The future of bouldering, especially when it comes to access, rests in all of our hands through the actions and choices we make today. Ultimately the Boulder Project is a way of life, thinking, making choices, building rela- tionships, and taking actions that stretch well beyond bouldering. It’s an awareness that the world and ourselves are evolving. Bouldering creates an intriguing tension. On one hand is the natural world; there is something about mountains, deserts, and the rock that excites us, and in their midst we push ourselves to perform at our highest level. Yet equally, the enormity of it all diminishes our importance in the earth’s affairs. The Boulder Project is about respecting this tension, owning our actions as they affect our climbing environment, and working to ensure the preservation of climbing access well beyond the completion of our boulder project. How can climbers be a part of the Boulder Project? Easy — let your passion for climbing inform your choices. Become involved, share your love of climbing with non-climbers, encourage shops and retailers to cater to climbers, let your land managers know your passion for bouldering, encourage your bouldering posse to organize a clean-up, mentor younger boulderers, realize that your choices and actions today affect access for future boulderers, and most importantly, continue to get outside and send your boulder project. For more information, visit accessfund.org Authored by: Deanne Buck with help from Robb Shurr, Ojai International Logo design by: Heath Norton, Vbouldering

On the cover: Matt Stark cruxes on Overweight Lover at the Hound Ears, North Carolina. "The Ears" is a bouldering area in a private resort that is only open for one day of the year at the Hound Ears Bouldering Competition; therefore, access there is definitely not taken for "granted." Photo by John Heisel. 2 3 Bouldering and Green Space in “We could’ve chained ourselves to the Atlanta: Taking a Stand at Boat Rock boulders, but that would’ve alienated folks By Jason Keith, Policy Director that might help us.” Instead, TBR chose

(Reprinted from the Black Diamond Spring ’04 a collaborative approach that eventually

Rock Climbing Catalog) endeared boulderers to the local residents.

Boat Rock, a small but regionally signifi- Today the “Boat Rock Preserve” protects

cant boulderfield surrounded by Atlanta’s nearly eight acres of bouldering, including

growing sprawl, was about to be destroyed such outstanding problems as Lost Digits,

— literally. The housing developer had Paint Can Boulder, and Waves in Motion. The

assured Brad McLeod, co-founder of the Boat Rock Preserve, now part of a land

Southeastern Climbers Coalition, that he’d trust established by the SCC, also provides

make every effort to spare the boulders critical greenspace and an “outdoor class-

from the teeth of the rock crushers, but room” where local school kids tour the

soon thereafter gravel was all that remained property to learn about its geology, animals,

of classic problems such as Titanic, Jerry’s and unique flora such as oak and hickory

Arete, The Glass Mantle, and Toe Jam. More trees, wild azaleas, and orchids. Eventually,

boulders awaited demolition. Brad and the rest of TBR envision the Boat

Boat Rock is a 1/2 mile long jigsaw Rock Preserve growing into a 40-acre park

puzzle of private parcels, many of which for boulderers, school kids, and much-

have yielded to high-density residential needed open space.

subdivisions. Brad knew he must take Taking a stand at Boat Rock not only

a stand before the machines spit out, meant bringing the climbing community

piece-by-piece, even more classic boul- together to save a threatened bouldering

dering problems. When a FOR SALE sign area, it also meant reaching out to the local

appeared, Brad and the rest of “Team Boat community to identify common interests

Rock” immediately started the money drive like greenspace preservation and environ-

to buy the boulders: $100,000. mental education. Sometimes preserving

So far, TBR has raised over half the your own piece of the rock means sharing

needed cash through individual climber it with others as well.

donations, and by making the project about More donations are still needed to pay off

the community as a whole. “This is a green the purchased land, taxes, insurance, and

space issue: it’s not just about climbers, it’s maintenance bills. Check the SCC website

about the local community,” explains Brad. for the full story at seclimbers.org

2 3 that you obey all the rules and in no way give cause to encourage the USFS to take a stricter approach. While the lawsuit is pending in court, all recreational activities Update on Cave Rock: July-August, that are currently permitted (including rock 2004 Voluntary Closure climbing on existing routes) will be allowed In response to the recent decision by to continue at Cave Rock. The temporary the United States Forest Service (USFS) order that prohibits installation of new fixed to uphold the Cave Rock climbing ban, anchors will remain in place. on December 15, 2003 the Access Fund “The Access Fund has a long and exem- filed a lawsuit requesting the courts over- plary history of compromise on similar turn a USFS management decision (see climbing access issues such as Devils file at www.accessfund.org/programs/ Tower in Wyoming, and the Red River CaveRock_complaint.htm). The Access Gorge in Kentucky,” said Jason Keith, policy Fund is a national, non-profit climber’s director for the Access Fund. “At both of advocacy organization representing the these areas, land managers have found a interests of more than one million climb- way to balance the interests of recreational ers nationwide. Cave Rock is a multi-use and cultural user groups.” The Access Fund recreational area in Nevada on the shores will continue to educate climbers on cultur- of Lake Tahoe. ally sensitive climbing issues. As stated in Climbing is the only activity to be pro- the Cave Rock climbing guidebook, climb- hibited by the USFS under its Record of ers should “climb and behave in a respect- Decision (ROD). According to the forest ful manner. Cave Rock is an important spiri- supervisor’s decision, there will be an tual site to the Washoe. Either treat it with immediate ban on climbing, while other respect and reverence or leave.” “compatible” recreational activities such As always, the Access Fund encour- as hiking, fishing and picnicking will be ages climbers to respect other users allowed to continue because these other and be sensitive to people for whom activities do not conflict with the “feel- Cave Rock has religious and spiritual ing and association” of Cave Rock. US significance. Please follow these guide- Hwy 50, which runs through Cave Rock lines when climbing at Cave Rock: via a dynamited tunnel, lies just a few feet away from the climbing area. (See 1. Refrain from climbing in July and August photo on the Access Fund website at 2004 in support of voluntary closure; accessfund.org/programs/pr.html In late November, through negotiations 2. Do not place new or replace existing fixed with the USFS and their attorneys, the anchors. Access Fund was able to obtain an administrative stay that stopped implementation of 3. Act respectfully to all user groups. the ROD until a U.S. District Court rules on the matter. This will occur after both sides 4. Use restroom facilities at the boat ramp or have presented written arguments to the pack it out. court this summer. Recently the USFS, through their attor- 5. Report any user conflicts or removal of fixed neys, requested the Access Fund support gear to the Access Fund and the USFS. a voluntary climbing closure for the months of July and August 2004 “to protect the area 6. Obey all USFS rules and regulations. during this high use time of the summer,” stated the USFS. The Access Fund has Access Fund Releases Bouldering agreed to support this voluntary closure Paper: Unique Resource to Benefit out of respect to the religious practices Land Managers The Access Fund is proud to announce of the Washoe during these two months. the publication of a unique resource Whether or not you as an individual climber providing the first-ever overview of respect the voluntary closure, it is critical bouldering issues and management ☛

4 5 approaches in the Unites States, Bouldering: Understanding and Managing Climbing Vertical Times, April 2004, volume 57. The Access Fund is a national non-profit organization on Small Rock Formations is intended to dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving provide a knowledge base for managing the climing environment. bouldering as a unique form of outdoor recreation, and contains an overview of Board of Directors bouldering, participant demographics, impacts President Keith Cole, Washington, DC caused by bouldering and management Dave Rosenstein, NJ Malcolm Daly, CO considerations. Becky Hall, CO Vice President Jeff Holt, NJ “The tremendous growth of bouldering Mark Kroese, WA Pat Jodice, SC in recent years has fueled many of the Gene Kistler, WV emerging access issues at numerous Secretary Sam Lightner, Jr.,WY areas around the country including Bishop, Eric Hobday, UT Marte Lightstone, NM CA; Joshua Tree, CA; and the Ross Lake Bob Margulis, WA Recreation Area of the North Cascades, WA” Treasurer John Myers, NC said Shawn Tierney, Access Fund access and Leslie Brown, WA Dan Nordstrom, WA Kurt Smith, TX acquisitions director. “Given the growing Lance Brock, TN Jeff Widen, CO popularity of climbing and outdoor recreation Mary Cablk, NV Honorary Board Members it is critical that management practices are Tommy Caldwell, CO Michael Kennedy, CO in place to protect natural resources while Andrew Carson, WY Armando Menocal, WY allowing for diverse climbing experiences. Ken Cline, CO Bill Supple, VT The goal of this paper is to share information Staff and encourage greater consistency in Executive Director climbing management in the US.” Steve Matous . . . [email protected] Copies of Bouldering will be sent to land managers, educators, Access Fund regional Development Director Heather Clark . . . [email protected] coordinators, and local climbing organizations. Copies also are available online as a PDF at: Director of Major Gifts Michael Lindsey . . . [email protected] www.accessfund.org/access/access_pub_ Access & Acquisitions Director resource.html Shawn Tierney . . . [email protected]

Grassroots Coordinator Deanne Buck. . . [email protected]

Policy Director Jason Keith. . . . [email protected]

Publications Director John Heisel...... [email protected]

Membership Director Kerry Cowan. . . [email protected]

Director of Operations Cindy Trotter. . . . [email protected]

The Access Fund is a national, nonprofit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open & conserving the climbing environment. Since its incorporation in 1990, the Access Fund has provided more than $2 million for climbing conservation and education across the US. We’ve paid for land purchases, climbers’ campgrounds, educational brochures, toilets, signs, and scientific research on climbers’ impact on birds of prey and cliff-dwelling plants. Vertical Times is the membership newsletter of the Access Fund published six times a year in February, April, June, August, October, and December. Bouldering: Understanding and Managing Climbing on Small Rock Formations pro- Access Fund ph: 3035456772 vides a knowledge base for managing PO Box 17010 FAX: 3035456774 bouldering. Boulder, CO 80308 www.accessfund.org

4 5 pulling hard on shallow pockets and spot- ting each other should they fall, the local land management agencies, a local climber Arizona’s Oak Flats Threatened by organization, the climbers Access Fund and Mining Proposal several local climbers are watching their Access to portions of Arizona’s Queen backs also, successfully managing the Creek/Oak Flats area, home to the Phoenix climbing areas where they play. BoulderBlast (formerly, the Phoenix The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Bouldering Contest), may be lost forever if has been very busy recently managing the US Forest Service approves a mining climbing on the Volcanic Tableland. The proposal by Resolution Copper Company biggest news is the collaboration between to extract billions of dollars worth of high- BLM, DWP and Inyo County to install a grade copper. There is substantial concern parking area and trail on Chalk Bluff Road at of ground subsidence due to the proposed the base of the Sad Boulders canyon. The mine – believed to be the largest copper trail from the Chalk Bluff Road to the Sad ore body in North America – located thou- Boulders will be improved by the BLM and sands of feet beneath the Oak Flats camp- local climbers working together. Access to ground where the PBB occurs. For liability the Sad Boulders via Caso Diablo Road will reasons, the mining company would like to be discouraged. The back road is rough and limit any public access to the areas above the upper parking lot is small so it won’t where the mining may occur (that is, much take much persuasion for climbers to use of the bouldering and roped climbing in the the front access via Chalk Bluff Road. region). The mine could affect hundreds of The BLM is planning to do a more com- bouldering problems and roped routes. prehensive ecological study of raptors in At this stage Resolution Copper has the entire Owens Valley around Bishop. The completed initial feasibility studies and objective is to gain a greater understand- begun “informal discussions” with the US ing of the ecological, climatic, and human Forest Service’s Tonto National Forest con- factors that may influence the population cerning the proposal. For more information dynamics of these important top predators, call the Tonto National Forest in Phoenix, AZ and ultimately to gain knowledge of how to at (602) 255-5200, log on to their website manage the area. at www.fs.fed.us/r3/tonto/indexy.html, or There is also good news for campers email the Tonto’s Deputy of Public Affairs at the BLM Pleasant Valley Winter camp- Vincent Picard at [email protected]. ground, known as the Pit. The BLM has In March, AF Policy Director Jason Keith purchased a CXT pre-cast concrete toilet to traveled to Phoenix and met with climbers replace the expensive-to-empty porta-toi- to identify possible outcomes and strate- lets. This luxurious commode, if you’ll par- gies to maintain climbing and bouldering don the French, will be installed before next access at Oak Flats. A result of this meet- season’s influx of winter climbing visitors. ing was the establishment of Friends of This installation has been partly funded by Queen Creek (FOQC) – a group of local the Access Fund who donated $9,750 spe- activists dedicated to maintaining public cifically for the new toilets, bringing the access to the larger Queen Creek area. In total Access Fund grants to climbing proj- March, Keith and FOQC members also met ects in the Bishop area to over $14,000 in with officials from Resolution Copper to 2003, and over $26,000 since 2000. explore alternatives for mining activity and Up at the Buttermilk’s Peabody Boulders climbing opportunities in the Queen Creek the Forest Service (FS) has also been area to coexist. busy doing studies on how people and For more information, contact Paul car impacts can be managed, stabilized Deifenderfer at [email protected] and hopefully reduced. The increase in or visit friendsofqueencreek.com the popularity of bouldering has put a lot of pressure on this area. Two concerns of Climbing Access Round Up the FS are sanitation and parking, and they by Mick Ryan are investigating installing CXT toilets and Whilst the climbers are out at the rocks formalizing the parking by con- ☛ 6 7 structing two parking areas out of natural materials. They prepared an Environmental Assessment and users have had the oppor- ACCESS FUND tunity to comment on the FS rational and Merchandise proposed alternatives. Most users agree members take 10% Off that sanitation is an important issue along

with encroachment of vehicles on to the delicate high desert vegetation, but many were concerned about the position of the Our stylish cap with the Access top parking area and the effect it would Fund logo embroidered on the have on the view shed of the Sierra Nevada front. Velcro strap allows from the area. The Forest Service will make adjustment to most sizes. their decision soon. $15 After several years of being represented by local individuals and the Access Fund, the Eastern Sierra now has a formal “climbing council” to represent climbers interests. Called the “Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition” (ESCC) their mission statement is The Access Fund O’Piner is to “preserve the climbing environment and an essential tool for twelve access to climbing areas through steward- ounce curls after a day of rock ship, education, and community outreach.” climbing! The ESCC is endorsed by the Access Fund $8 and is focusing on being a forum for all climbers or members of the community to voice their concern about specific climbing issues. Presently there are ten ESCC boards NEW! Women's members: Sarah Schneider, Tony Puppo, “Mandala” t-shirt with Scott Justham, Clark Trowell, Zeke Access Fund logo on the Federman, Jaime Stewart, Greg Haverstock, front. Preshrunk. Fit for Tim Steele, and Paul Rasmussen, with women. (canary) Schneider and Federman being the impor- Sizes S, M, L, XL. tant land manager liaison team. $20 The ESCC are planning to have a website up and running soon where you can register to join, so far they have a mailing list of 50 names and to fairly represent climbers they will need much more than that. The group will “Mandala” be having regular public meetings to which all T-shirt with Access Fund our invited. One of the first actions the group logo on the front. (blue or is involved in will be the improvement of the white) trail from Chalk Bluff Road to the Sad Boulders Sizes S, M, L, XL. canyon in collaboration with the BLM and FS $20 trail specialist Marty Hornick. In addition to the ESCC, climbers are also represented by the Access Fund’s Regional Coordinator, Bob Harrington, who To order online, visit also made comments recently on the FS https://www.accessfund.org/secure/gear.pl plans up at the Buttermilk. Climbers are or call 888-863-6237 x107. encouraged to make individual comment Hey Community Partners! You can order great Access Fund on any land management issues directly Gear at wholesale prices online: https://www.accessfund.org/ to land mangers or attend the “Interagency wholesale/gear.pl Bouldering (and Climbing) Group” meetings and make their voices heard. 6 7 ing with boulderers to responsibly manage new and culturally or environmentally sensitive bouldering areas. The savvy land manager knows the benefits of working with boulderers, rather than the never-ending Ways to Involve Boulderers in battle of closing trails and/or areas. Use your Your Local Climbing Organization organization to create an open relationship (Adopted from IMBA’s "9 Ways to Involve Freeriders in your Club") between boulderers and land managers.

Boulderers are some of the most pas- 4. Listen, Don’t Criticize sionate, energetic, and creative climbers The discovery and growth of bouldering areas around. Involving all types of climbers and is a complex issue. It may seem that the easi- all types of climbing can give an established est thing to do is to criticize and separate your local climbing organization a great boost organization from this element of climbing. of adrenaline. Here are a few tips to help. This approach will only fragment the climbing community. Boulderers are enthusiastic 1. Include Boulderers in Organization climbers. Listen to their ideas - you’ll gain their Leadership respect and learn something in the process. Expand the leadership of your organization to be inclusive of all types of climbing. It 5. Liven it Up, Brah! is one thing to invite boulderers to attend Organization meetings need not be events a meeting or two. It’s another to invite that challenge C-SPAN for dynamic enter- them to have a significant voice in the tainment value. Keep meetings fun, lively organization’s decision-making process. and snappy. Show climbing videos, pro- Work to enlist boulderers in your organi- vide good food and drink and keep the zation’s leadership or board of directors. agenda moving. These elements appeal to all climbers — not just boulderers. 2. Embrace Bouldering Stewardship Projects Stewardship is about giving back to the 6. Shop Talk climbing areas we use on a regular basis. Boulderers tend to be passionate climbers, From the signs in the parking areas, to the and many spend a lot of time in local climb- established trail systems, to the rocks and ing gyms and shops. Use these shops and boulders where we devote endless hours, gyms to get boulderers involved in your climbers are frequent land-users, and it is organization. Put up flyers for meetings important that we make an effort to maintain or better yet work to host organization and care for that land. Stewardship projects meetings or parties at a shop or gym. encourage climbing communities to engage local land managers, landowners, park ser- 7. Boulderers can Expand and Increase vice employees, and forest rangers in con- Organization’s Membership versation about ways to preserve and pro- While certainly not the rule, boulderers are tect their climbing areas and environments. often young. They may have a different perspective on what types of events will attract 3. Use your Existing Relationship with the climbing community. Pay attention: if a Land Managers to address Environmental boulderer suggests that your organization’s and Cultural concerns in bouldering areas. next fundraiser be a thumping techno dance Remote, challenging, wilderness boulder- party, perhaps they’re onto something. ing is becoming more and more popular. For cultural and environmental reasons, 8. Invest in Boulderers land managers may have concerns with Not with money, but with time. Younger bouldering in these areas. It is important boulderers are part of the future of climbing to work with boulderers and your local land and your organization. By taking the time to manager to determine the sensitivity of work with them and share your knowledge bouldering areas and the potential impacts and experience, you can be sure the future of discovering a new bouldering area. Most of climbing will be in good hands. ☛ land managers are open to the idea of work- 8 9 Access Fund Awards $19,500 in formed grassroots climber’s advocacy group. Climbing Preservation Grants ESCC will focus on proactive resolution of The Access Fund has awarded $19,500 in climbing management issues, dialogue with its first round of grant funding for 2004. land managers, education and outreach to Awarded three times annually, Climbing local and visiting climbers, stewardship of the Preservation Grants provide financial area’s resources, and representing climbers assistance for local climber activism and in the eastern Sierra. protection of the climbing environment. The grants will be distributed for trail Black Cliffs Trail Project, ID improvements, education and start-up $3,000 to the Boise Climbers Alliance assistance for newly formed local climber to improve climbing access to the Black organizations. “The Access Fund is com- Cliffs, a local cragging area 15 minutes mitted to preserving the climbing experi- from downtown Boise. Climbing use has ence for present and future generations,” increased over the years, resulting in the said Shawn Tierney, access and acquisi- proliferation of social trails and serious tions director. “We’re proud to fund these erosion problems. The BCA will also install important initiatives on behalf of our mem- several kiosks at key trailheads to inform bers and the entire climbing community.” climbers about the BCA, supporting organi- The following grants were awarded: zations, the raptor protection plan, and the area’s natural and historic value. Rocky Mountain Field Institute Trail Projects, UT Friends of Joshua Tree/Boulder Clean, CA $5,000 to the Rocky Mountain Field $1,500 to the Friends of Joshua Tree (FOJT) Institute (RMFI) for trail projects at Indian for their “Boulder Clean” project. Boulder Creek Canyon, UT. Projects will include Clean is an educational campaign focusing construction of climbing access trails to on building awareness of local bouldering the Way Rambo and Cat Walls, camp- access issues, bouldering ethics, steward- ground maintenance and restoration for ship, and conservation of climbing resourc- the Bridger Jack camping site, and main- es. FOJT is currently working in partnership tenance of existing trails. The mitigation with industry partners, JTNP officials, local of impacts to the fragile desert landscape guidebook authors, boulderers, and local continues to be a critical need in Indian retailers. Creek Canyon. RMFI has received Access Fund support for Indian Creek projects for Rock Canyon Protection Project, UT the past 6 years. $2,000 to the Rock Canyon Alliance (RCA) for the Rock Canyon Preservation Southeastern Climbers Coalition, GA Project. The grant will support the ongo- $3,000 to the Southeastern Climbers ing efforts of the RCA to preserve climb- Coalition (SCC) for the Boat Rock Preserve. ing access in Uinta National forest and SCC purchased the 7-acres Boat Rock prop- on 80-acres of private land within Rock erty with assistance from the Access Fund Canyon. Quarrying has recently been initi- in 2002, and has held periodic fundraisers ated on the private land, and much of the over the past two years to pay for the quartzite boulders and cliffs have been purchase. This grant is part of the Access removed. In response to the quarrying Fund’s ongoing commitment to the SCC activity, climbers in Utah have organized to for Boat Rock. By purchasing Boat Rock support the RCA to preserve access and the SCC has managed to preserve a small limit the effects of the mining operation. slice of a magnificent boulder field and its unique environment for climbers as well as Natural Bridge, CA the surrounding community to enjoy. $1,000 was awarded to help pay for inter- pretive signage at a culturally significant Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition, CA climbing site in northern California. The $2,500 to the ESCC to help pay for organi- signs will also ask visitors not to climb at zational and start-up expenses for the newly Natural Bridge. The voluntary closure ☛

8 9 is fully supported by the local climbing (the area’s local climber organization). community and the Access Fund. HUECO TANKS, TEXAS Pete’s Rock Conservation Project, UT Continued to offer support to Hueco $1,250 to the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Tanks State Historical Park (HTSHP) for (SLCA) for the Pete’s Rock Conservation resource protection, trail improvements, and Restoration Initiative. Last year, the and climber education. Assisted the for- SLCA committed to permanently removing mation of the Climbers of Hueco Tanks, large white painted numbers from Pete’s provided financial support for Climbers of Rock, a beginner top-rope crag located Hueco Tanks staff to attend crucial manage- near Mt. Olympus in the Wasatch Range. ment meetings, where they obtained rec- The numbers had been re-painted year ognition from HTSHP that Hueco is one of the world’s premier bouldering sites which after year as a tradition to mark the routes is unique and should be preserved. For and designate their difficulty. The public is the first time ever the State of Texas rec- overwhelming in support of permanently ognized that recreation is a legitimate use removing the paint as most recreationists of the park and bouldering is an important felt it was a practice no longer acceptable. use of the park resources. Held a climbers meeting at Hueco to hear the concerns of Auburn Ice Access Project, MA the bouldering community. $250 to the Friends of Auburn Ice Canyon. Access to one of the only ice climbing LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANYON, UTAH venues in eastern MA is threatened by Met with members of the Salt Lake conflicts with adjacent private landowner. Climbers Alliance to discuss strategies Funds will help defray the cost of producing for negotiating with the LDS Church informational signs and brochures directing concerning private property issues climbers to parking and access routes. in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC).

2003 Access Fund Work On RED ROCKS, NEVADA Endangered Crags Drafted administrative comments and The AF launched the endangered climb- related advocacy work on manage- ing area campaign with the support of ment plans for Red Rocks National Mountain Gear in 2003. The campaign Conservation Area (NV) and the newly identified areas around the country most established wilderness area at Red Rocks. in need of immediate attention and highlighted the issues and problems fac- RED RIVER GORGE, KENTUCKY ing each one. For more information visit Strategized with cultural resource consul- tants to find positive solutions to protect accessfund.org/endangered/index.html archaeological and historical values at Red River Gorge, KY while maintaining reason- CAVE ROCK, NEVADA able climbing access. Spearheaded opposition to USFS climbing ban at Cave Rock. Filed an administrative TWIN SISTERS, IDAHO appeal urging the Forest Service to recon- Continued two-part strategy: sider their management actions; and filed 1. Develop and implement a CMP for a lawsuit with Nevada Federal Court to neighboring Castle Rocks State Park. reverse unconstitutional actions by the US 2. Initial discussions with IDPR to revise Forest Service. City of Rocks CMP,

THE FLATIRONS, COLORADO VOLCANIC TABLELAND, CALIFORNIA Attended a series of meetings with city of Provided over $14,000 in grants to assist Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks with bouldering management on the Department planning staff and provided Tableland and organized a climber meeting climber perspective on the Flatirons Visitor that led to forming a local climber group Management Plan; provided ongoing sup- to represent climbers on the east side of port for the Flatirons Climbing Council the Sierra.

10 11 to expand its mission and remain the voice of sensible climbing regulations and access

Michael Lindsey, Director of Major Gifts issues. JH: What type of support are you trying to John Heisel: Where are you from? receive for the AF? Michael Lindsey: I was born and raised in ML: The Access Fund gets its financial support Wyoming. I lived there 27 years, leaving to from membership fees, individual donors, work for Colorado Outward Bound in 1979. private and public foundations, grants, and During my last five years there, I was the pro- corporate support. We need to broaden our gram director and did some fundraising trips base and get more people involved in giving to Nepal and the former Soviet Union. Then, to ensure our climbing future is intact. As the I started working for NOLS as the director of population grows, cities expand and regula- the Rocky Mountain Branch, and worked as tions stiffen, their will be more pressure to limit the operations director overseeing branches access to some of our favorite climbing area. in Kenya, Mexico, Canada, Chile, as well as JH: What kind of projects are you working on ? the U.S. ML: One of my biggest projects is organiz- JH: How did you get into climbing? ing the Annual Dinner in San Francisco on ML: In 1970, my roommate took a two day September 23rd where we will have three introduction to rock climbing course at the speakers. The theme is "three generations University of Wyoming. He came back and pushing the limits in Yosemite." said “I really like this, let’s go out climbing. JH: What are some other of your projects? He bought an old Gold line rope, a few pitons ML: I’m also working to expand our Planned and a hammer. The next day we went to Giving program. There are a number of ways Vedauwoo. He led the first pitch to show me people can give to the Access Fund such as how it was done. I led the second pitch and wills, life insurance, or deferred gifts. Some (laughs) somehow we managed to survive. planned gifts can even take effect during So we learned by trial and error. Then, I kept the donor’s lifetime. The important concept climbing at Vedauwoo and around Wyoming is that the donor’s heirs will still receive the and Colorado throughout college. When I same amount, even with a planned gift. The graduated, I kept trying longer and harder difference, in many instances, is that the fed- climbs and traveled around the Western eral government receives less tax. United States and Canada. JH: So why should people support the AF? JH: What type of climbing do you prefer? ML: First, become a member because our ML: After almost 20 years of traditional climb- membership can be a powerful force for ing, I moved to Lander in 1989. The best tradi- public policy issues that effect climbing. tional climbing was a ways away so we start- We’ve truly have made a significant impact ed putting up sport climbs in nearby Sinks on climbing in America. Also, members Canyon. I could go from my house, to climb- can be assured their contributions are well ing at Sinks Canyon, in 15-20 minutes. Sport spent to protect their climbing interests. climbing really fit my lifestyle. I could spend JH: Anything else? half a day with my daughters, and still get in ML: A lot of access problems can be enough pitches in to feel real hammered. I avoided if climbers are good ambassadors enjoy the gymnastics and movement of sport and stewards in their local climbing areas. climbing. I still like to trad climb, but like the For example, at Sinks Canyon we met convenience and ability to focus on the pure with the land managers early on when we movement of sport climbing. started developing JH: So, tell me about your job as Director of routes. Then we Major Gifts. worked with them ML: My job is to get more people involved to develop strate- in financially supporting the Access Fund. gies for minimizing Climbers are becoming increasingly aware impacts, which- that their climbing resources can’t be taken helped ensure for granted. For the Access Fund to be effec- continued access tive, it needs the resources, namely dollars, to the area!

10 11 Note: The opinions expressed below are not necessarily those of the Access Fund

overhanging rock. Mike Njoten Quartz Mountain Thanks Tahoe, California As a long time Access Fund Member and recent transplant to Oklahoma, I had Response to "Altruist With A Bosch" my first opportunity to climb at Quartz (reprinted with permission from Rock & Ice Magazine) Mountain this weekend. It was an all too Matt Samet’s interview with Bob short day, but what a marvelous spot to D’Antonio (“The Power and the Fury” – climb out there in the plains of the west. Rock and Ice #129 Dec. 1, 2003) illustrates I also had the opportunity talk with one why every climber should join the Access of the park rangers. He was enthusiastic Fund. Every popular climbing area is at about Quartz Mountain becoming a part risk today, and Bob’s cavalier and conten- of the park system and had nothing but tious attitude is like a bull in a china shop. wonderful things to say about the climbing I like Bob’s routes, but the idea that he is community. an altruist with a Bosch is a stretch. There Congratulations to all who were a part are a million climbers in this country, and of this project. I look forward to years of bureaucrats and land owners don’t give a climbing here in Oklahoma and will keep damn about anyone’s right to climb, much supporting Access Fund and its many less to bolt. projects. It’s unfortunate that Bob felt compelled Tom Trautman to criticize the Fixed Hardware Review Oklahoma Committee. The process developed by Eldorado State Park and the Action Committee for Eldorado is an excellent Cave Rock Concerns model for popular crags on public lands. My name is Mike Njoten. I just visited Applications for new fixed hardware are the forest service office today and found submitted to the FHRC, whose charter is out that cave rock will be closed to climb- to interpret the consensus of the climbing ing as of the 20th of Nov. I live in South community. ACE has worked hard for 11 Lake Tahoe and climb at cave on a regular years to build a positive relationship with the basis ( approximately 100 to 150 days State Park. Now that’s altruism. (A similar within the last 3 years). I know everyone process has been adopted to open limited who climbs there and none of us had areas of the Flatirons for new route develop- ever seen any of the Washoe visiting ment after 15 years of restrictions.) Anyone their most “sacred” cave rock. We need who believes that they are entitled to place to fight the closure. If there is anything I bolts whenever, wherever they like is oblivi- can do please tell me. Slayer was one of ous of today’s climbing reality. the first 5.14’s in the U.S. Henry Rupert, The only way to preserve climbing the Washoe medicine man, visited the access and responsible establishment cave from 1965 to 1969. This is their sole of new routes is for climbers to band argument. Alvin Mclaine climbed a classic together and support the organizations 5.6 at cave in 1963 which is just as histori- fighting for their interests. So get behind cally significant. As for the archaeological the Access Fund and your local climbing aspect and the rock work that Dano did to organization BEFORE your favorite crag disturb the “original” state of cave rock’s gets closed or restricted! It’s difficult to floor, I am appalled. The only reason that understand why less than 10% of climb- a floor even exists is because the govern- ers support the Access Fund. The more ment needed somewhere to put all of the climbing areas that are closed, the less rubble from the two tunnels they blasted your imagined right to express your sense through the andesite plug’s core. Cave of adventure matters – whether for com- Rock is one of the places where climber’s mon good or personal glory. realized that we can climb the severely Owen Silver Boulder, Colorado 12 13 MEMBERSHIP INCENTIVE PROGRAM! As a contributing member in 2004, you’ll notice exciting new benefits when you join or renew at a $50.00 minimum. (The tax-deductible amount of your contribution is limited to the excess of money over the value of goods received.)

$1000 and up Maxim 200’ Rope & AF T-shirt $100 Value=$135 Subscription to Outside & AF T-shirt

Value=no taxable $500 value North Face Redpoint Jacket & AF T-shirt

Value=$75 $50 AF “Mandala” T-shirt

Value=no taxable $250 value Black Diamond Headlamp & AF T-shirt

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Receive the Access Fund E-News Access and Conservation Access Fund Member Handbook Online Keep informed about climbing access through this The Member Handbook is a complete source of free monthly electronic newsletter. To subscribe, information about access issues, Access Fund pro- visit www.accessfund.org and enter your E-mail grams, letter writing and other advocacy tools, and address at the bottom of the home page. a primer on ways to get involved at your local crags. Look inside for: - Tips for writing political action letters. To view the current issue of the AF E-News: - A complete list of the Access Fund’s staff. accessfund.org/virtual_times/index.html - Guidelines about how to climb responsibly.

- Download the PDF file at: accessfund.org/pdf/memb-handbook.pdf

Vertical Times Newsletter Also Online Vertical Times, the Access Fund’s bimonthly print newsletter, provides up-to-date news on policy, area reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike — if you are not a member, please join at www.accessfund.org. The AF is now offering this unique publication electronically to decrease printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If you choose to take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, please E-mail your name and address to [email protected] with “Remove Vertical Times” as the subject.

Presently, over 1400 members have chosen our online option — a savings to the Access Fund of $4200 per year to be utilized in protecting YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE.

To view back issues of Vertical Times as PDF files, please visit: accessfund.org/vertical_times

12 13 ACCESS FUND CORPORATE PARTNERS Initiated in 1991, this program consists of 100 businesses dedicated to preserving America’s diverse climbing resources. After each company’s name appears the year it became a corporate partner. Please support these companies, which support YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE.

DIAMOND – $20,000+ New Belgium Brewing Co. – 2000 Black Diamond Equipment – 1991 Outdoor Research – 1999 Climbing – 1991 Phoenix Rock Gym – 1997 Galyan’s – 1999 Pusher/Cordless/S7 – 1998 Haynes and Boone LLP – 2003 Redpoint, Inc. – 2000 REI – 1991 Rock & Snow, Inc. – 2003 Rock & Ice – 1993 Schwartz Communications, Inc. – 2003 SuperTopo.com – 2003 PLATINUM – $10,000+ Thule – 2003 CLIF Bar – 1995 Ultimate Ascents International – 2003 Nike ACG – 2002 VooDoo Holds – 2001 Petzl/Charlet Moser – 1991 Yates Gear – 1993 prAna – 1995 The North Face – 1995 CONTRIBUTING – $500+ Advanced Base Camp – 1992 GOLD PLUS – $7,500+ Alpine Ascents International – 1998 Archer Law Offices P.C. – 2003 Anker Climbing Equipment – 2003 MSR / Therm–a–Rest – 1995 Avery Brewing Company – 1998 W.L. Gore – 1991 AZ on the Rocks – 2003 Bearing Images – 2000 GOLD – $5,000+ ClimbingBoulder.com – 2001 Campmor – 1991 Excalibur DMM/Wild Country/Red Chili USA – 1995 Climb High/Mammut – 1991 Flannel Design – 2001 La Sportiva – 1994 GearExpress.com – 2003 Maxim Ropes – 1992 Higher Ground Roasters – 2003 Nalgene – 1992 Kind Coffee – 2003 Omega Pacific Mountaineering – 1992 Kristin Carpenter Public Relations – 2003 Patagonia – 1992 Moonstone Mountain Equipment – 2003 The Spot Bouldering Gym – 2003 Mountaineers Books – 1992 Trango USA & Stonewear Designs – 1992 Mountain Madness – 2000 Weathered Stone – 1999 Mountainsmith – 2003 Mountain Tools – 1991 SILVER – $2,500+ Nicros – 1997 All Terrain – 2003 Osprey – 2003 Arc'teryx – 1998 Outland Mountain Shop – 2003 BlueWater – 1992 PMI – 1991 Boulder Rock Club – 1996 Pacific Edge Climbing Gym – 1995 Dana Design – 2003 Phoenix Bouldering Comp – 1997 FalconGuides – 1998 Real Cheap Sports – 2003 Gregory Mountain Products – 1993 Royal Robbins – 1992 Marmot – 1999 Saltic Climbing/Trekking – 2003 Metolius – 1991 Sickle Climbing – 2001 Misty Mountain Threadworks – 1994 Stone Age Climbing – 1997 Mountain Gear – 1995 The Magic Line – 2004 Mountain Hardwear – 1996 2Trails.com – 2002 Salomon – 2003 Tom K. Michael, D.D.S., P.S. – 2000 Sterling Rope – 1994 Travel Country Outdoors – 2002 Touchstone Climbing Inc. – 2002 Verve – 1996 Vasque – 2003 MEDIA PARTNERS MAJOR – $1,000+ Alpinist – 2003 American Bouldering Series – 2000 Blue Ridge Outdoors Magazine – 1997 Asolo – 2003 Coreyography – 2002 Big Up Productions – 2003 Dan Bailey Photography – 2002 Bluetrope Consulting – 2003 Dr. Topo.com – 2003 ClimbersRock.com – 2003 Integrity 7 – 2004 Cloudveil – 1998 Ousley Creative – 2001 Crazy Creek Products – 1992 Patitucci Photo – 2003 Gripped Magazine – 2004 Second Chance Films – 2004 Lowe Alpine Systems – 1991 She Sends – 2004 Montrail – 2002 Vbouldering - 2004

14 15

The Access Fund PO Box 17010 Boulder, CO 80308

ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

LOCAL CLIMBING ORGANIZATIONS LCO’s are volunteer-based climber organizations working in collaboration with the Access Fund to preserve access and conserve the climbing environment at the local or regional level. LCO’s also support the Access Fund through events and membership drives. To add your LCO to this list, E-mail [email protected]. For links to websites of these LCOs, visit www.accessfund.org/whoweare/who_lco.html

Alabama Iowa Alabama Climbers' Association Eastern Iowa Climbers Coalition Ohio Southeastern Climbers Coalition Ohio Climbers Association Kentucky Arizona Kentucky Rock and Sports Trust Oklahoma Arizona Mountaineering Club Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition Southeastern Climbers Coalition Tucson Climbers Association Oregon Ohio AAC - Oregon Section Access Committee Arkansas Ohio Climbers Association Cascades Mountaineers Southeastern Climbers Coalition Mazamas Massachusetts Smith Rock Climbers California Appalachian Mountain Club - Boston Chapter Boulder Clean - Joshua Tree Bouldering Group Pennsylvania Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition Cragmont Climbing Club Explorers Club of Pittsburgh Manayunk Climbing Alliance Friends of Joshua Tree Michigan Friends of Pinnacles Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers Grand Ledges Climbers Coalition San Diego Climbers Coalition South Dakota Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition Missouri Southern California Mountaineers Association Black Hills Climbers Coalition Climbers Alliance of Mid-Missouri Southern Sierra Climbers Association Tennessee Minnesota Canada Southeastern Climbers Coalition Minnesota Climbers Association Climbers Access Society of British Columbia Texas Nevada Colorado Central Texas Mountaineers Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Action Committee for Eldorado Climbers of Hueco Tanks Texas Mountaineers Flatirons Climbing Council New Mexico CRAG-New Mexico Connecticut Utah Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Ragged Mountain Foundation New Jersey Access NJ Georgia Vermont CRAG-VT Southeastern Climbers Coalition New York Gunks Climbers Coalition Idaho West Virginia New River Alliance of Climbers Kootenai Climbers North and South Carolina Southeastern Climbers Coalition Boone Climber's Coalition Illinois Carolina Climbers Coalition Illinois Climbers Association Wisconsin Pisgah Climbers Association Wisconsin Outdoor Access Southeastern Climbers Coalition 16