Rock Climbing Instructor Candidate Handbook

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ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTOR CANDIDATE HANDBOOK . raining, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ES Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, Conwy raining, T by Libby Peter which we publish to Peter Libby to Rock Climbing by Throughout this handbook there are references essential information and techniques with rock climbers and instructors. It is packed support developing section(s) for each syllabus area. listed the relevant and we have All rights reserved Design: www.dragondesignwales.com Dragon Design by Tel: 01690 720272 Email: info@mountain-training.org Website: www.mountain-training.org November 2019. Version 1.2 © Mountain Training. Published by Mountain Published by ROCK CLIMBING Many people have contributed to the preparation of the contents of this handbook, by attending Mountain Training Mountain Training attending handbook, by of the contents of this contributed to the preparation people have Many thanks are due to Grateful comments on the draft. making detailed and constructive working party meetings and by organisation council Group, national Mountain Training Working and staff from the Climbing Awards Review volunteers of the Association of Mountaineering staff of the mountaineering councils, members members, course providers, Mountain Centres and members of The Association of Association, staff from the National Instructors, Mountain Training for their help and support. British Climbing Walls Messenger, bring the handbook to life: Alan Halewood, Alex whose photographs Thanks also to the following individuals North West. Hutton, NICAS and Outdoor Adventure Guy Jarvis, John Cousins, Karl Midlane, Mike Charlie Low, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS PARTICIPATION STATEMENT PARTICIPATION with a danger of personal injury walking and mountaineering are activities recognises that climbing, hill Mountain Training for their own actions. and accept these risks and be responsible of in these activities should be aware or death. Participants to help and associated supporting literature and assessment schemes of training a range has developed Mountain Training learning about their while experiences positive to have these risks and to enable new participants instructors manage responsibilities. This handbook has been designed to support candidates through Mountain Training’s Rock Climbing Instructor Rock Climbing Training’s through Mountain to support candidates has been designed This handbook and guidance well as the syllabus in the scheme as the various stages information about It contains useful qualiﬁcation. notes. PREFACE

PREFACE 2 CONTENTS 3

4-6 7-12 19-20 29 11-12 17-18 21-22 27-28 15-16 7-8 9-10 23-24 30 25-26 13-14 31 29-30 32 23-24 25-28 13-22

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...... ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

MANAGING/SUPERVISING OTHER STAFF MANAGING/SUPERVISING DECISION MAKING AND PERSONAL SAFETY AND MAKING DECISION OF TECHNIQUES DEMONSTRATION AND KNOWLEDGE – – DEFINITIONS – ACCESS AND CONSERVATION – TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS – PLANNING AND ORGANISING – PLANNING AND – EQUIPMENT AND ANCHORS – EQUIPMENT 1 2 – ETIQUETTE AND ETHICS – – MANAGEMENT OF PARTICIPANTS – MANAGEMENT – – – BELAYING AND PERSONAL SKILLS AND PERSONAL – BELAYING BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE – ABSEILING AND

MOUNTAIN TRAINING ASSOCIATION APPENDIX SYSTEM AND DLOG CANDIDATE MANAGEMENT THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT SKILLS TEACHING AND LEARNING MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING MANAGEMENT

SCHEME PATHWAY SCHEME COMPETENCE TECHNICAL SCHEME PATHWAY 1. SCHEME PATHWAY

1.1. INTRODUCTION The Rock Climbing Instructor scheme enables experienced rock climbers to instruct climbing on single pitch crags and artificial climbing walls and towers. 1.2. SCOPE OF THE SCHEME A qualified Rock Climbing Instructor can: Teach climbing skills. Take people climbing, bouldering and abseiling. Manage groups safely in these activities. TERRAIN A qualified Rock Climbing Instructor can operate on:

Single pitch* trad and sport crags. Indoor and outdoor bouldering venues. Climbing walls & towers.

*See Appendix 1 for a deﬁnition of a single pitch crag. EXCLUSIONS The scheme does not cover: General mountaineering. Multi-pitch rock climbing. Teaching lead climbing skills. Access to tidal sea cliffs or any other location where retreat is not easily possible.

1.3. STAGES IN THE SCHEME 1.3.1. Registration prerequisites: You must be 18. You must be an experienced indoor and outdoor rock climber. You must have a genuine interest in climbing and the supervision of groups. You must be a member of a mountaineering council (British Mountaineering Council, Mountaineering Ireland, Mountaineering Scotland)

1.3.2. Training prerequisites: You must be registered on the scheme. You must have an up to date logbook (preferably DLOG) with evidence of the following: 15 led routes which must be graded rock climbs with traditional protection. 15 led routes at a climbing wall. 5 led routes which must be outdoor bolt protected sport climbs.

1.3.3. Consolidation period: Climb at a wide range of venues and on a variety of rock types, both as an individual and when assisting with the supervision of others. All but the most experienced candidates should allow a minimum of six months between training and assessment. There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to complete the qualiﬁcation.

The Mountain Training Association is a voluntary membership organisation designed to support candidates working towards our qualifications and provide development opportunities for those who already have them. Anyone who is registered on one of our qualification schemes can join the Mountain Training Association and members get access to a wide range of supportive benefits, including access to CPD workshops, discounts on outdoor clothing and equipment and online resources.

4 SCHEME PATHWAY 5 ASSESSMENT ASSESSMENT Mountain Training Scotland Mountain Training Board Ireland Mountain Training Assessment will involve a minimum of 16 hours Assessment will involve of 2 days a minimum over contact time delivered at an indoor with at least 4 hours delivered climbing wall. completed, Fail, Not yet Defer, Results: Pass, Did not show. Withdrew, element of the from any There is no exemption assessment. place within take reassessments cannot Practical allow three months of the initial assessment to All preparation. and sufficient time for practice be completed within reassessments must deferral the original assessment. Candidates of years five reassessments after a two short undertake may must defer result. Subsequently a full assessment be undertaken. Course director much hold the Mountaineering Instructor Award or higher plus national requirements. organisation Mountain Training Additional staff must hold the Mountaineering Instructor Award or higher plus national requirements.. organisation Mountain Training Min. course size: 2, max. course size: 8, max. ratio: 1:4. 3. COURSE DELIVERY 2. COURSE STRUCTURE TRAINING TRAINING Mountain Training Cymru Mountain Training England Mountain Training 4. AWARDING ORGANISATIONS 4. AWARDING You must have assisted in the supervision of 20 instructed sessions. These sessions should be at a variety of sessions. These sessions should be assisted in the supervision of 20 instructed must have You You must have attended a Rock Climbing Instructor (or Single Pitch Award) training course or been granted been granted course or training Award) Single Pitch (or Instructor Climbing a Rock attended must have You syllabus. be familiar with the must You protection. with leader-placed on outdoor crags climbs grade Severe be competent leading must You which (of at a variety of venues protection with traditional rock climbs of 40 graded led a minimum have must You at F4 or wall leads graded of 30 climbing a minimum and have use of climbing walls be proficient in the must You Providers may offer a dedicated minimum 16 may Providers hours contact time Rock Climbing Instructor attended who have course for candidates training Climbing Wall Instructor (or a Climbing Wall or assessment. Award) training Training will involve a minimum of 24 hours will involve Training of 3 days, a minimum over contact time delivered with 8 hours in a climbing wall. Min. course size: 2, max. course size: 8, max. ratio: Min. course size: 2, max. course size: 8, max. ratio: 1:4. Additional staff must be Rock Climbing Instructor Single Pitch Award) or higher plus national (or requirements. organisation Mountain Training Course director must hold the Mountaineering Instructor Award or higher plus national requirements. organisation Mountain Training hours of instruction and included an element of assessment. or sixteen days at least two full course which involved a first aid attended and completed (i.e. not online) physically must have You on DLOG. comments recorded reflective personal of these sessions must have At least five evening. or half day A session is a crags. climbing walls and the other 10 on outdoor with 10 being on indoor venues different

or above. at F4 of 10 sport climb leads graded a minimum sport climbing and have in outdoor bolt protected must be proﬁcient You training. from exemption or above). grade at least 20 MUST be at Severe above.

Assessment prerequisites: Assessment 1.3.4. CLIM BIN G PAT H WAY

PER SONAL SKI LLS INS TRUCTOR CO ACH

OUTD OOR IND OOR OUTD OOR IND OOR /OUTD OOR

Indoor Rock Skills Climbing Coach Assistant HER E T TA R S Rock Skills Climbing Wall Rock Climbing Intermediate Instructor Instructor

Development Coach Rock Climbing Rock Skills Rock Skills Climbing Wall Development Lead Sport Lead Trad Development Instructor Instructor

Mountaineering Instructor Award

Performance Coach Mountaineering Instructor

Direct Skills Assistant Leadership Coaching Recommended Entry Courses Progression TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – EQUIPMENT AND ANCHORS

The Rock Climbing Instructor will be able to identify and evaluate commonly used climbing equipment and demonstrate its use to individuals during a climbing session. They will be personally competent in a range of climbing techniques and be able to provide clear demonstration and effective tuition to novice climbers. They will be able to:

SYLLABUS

1. EQUIPMENT 2. ANCHORS 1.1. Select and fit suitable climbing equipment for 2.1. Select suitable, sound anchors in a variety of personal and group use. situations. Anchors to include: 1.2. Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of 2.1.1. spikes and blocks. personal climbing equipment and ensure appropriate use, 2.1.2. nuts and camming devices. care and maintenance in line with manufacturers’ guidance. 2.1.3. threads, chockstones and trees. 2.1.4. fixed equipment including: 1.3. Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of climbing wall equipment and ensure 2.1.4.1. a variety of different bolts. appropriate use of: 2.1.4.2. stakes and other anchors placed in the ground. 1.3.1. In-situ ropes. 2.1.4.3. climbing wall anchors 1.3.2. Auto-belays. 1.3.3. Fixed matting. 2.2. Set up single and multiple anchors for a belay and 1.3.4. Holds. attach themselves securely. 1.3.5. Anchors/lower offs and fixed equipment. ROCK CLIMBING Section 6.6: Equipment Section 6.8: Anchor selection

7 TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – EQUIPMENT AND ANCHORS 8 ANCHORS ANCHORS Develop an understanding of what makes of what makes an understanding Develop a safe placement when selecting anchors and consider using a scoring system to its quality. rate equipment (bolts, Research how fixed lower-offs and climbing wall hand-holds) a method for are placed and develop checking the suitability of these. Visit a variety of different rock types to understanding of different broaden your rock features and how this then relates to the placing of anchors. Experiment with different anchors in the same location to consider which is the most appropriate option and to improve efficiency. your Sound anchor choice is a fundamental skill for any skill for any choice is a fundamental Sound anchor it is therefore Instructor and Rock Climbing skills to evaluate the develop that you important efficient system. utilising a safe and them whilst KEY PRACTICE POINTS KEY PRACTICE GUIDANCE NOTES GUIDANCE ! EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT Practise fitting a range of different helmets fitting a range Practise be there may and harnesses. Research why design or features. differences in the overall with your yourself time to familiarise Take reading the own equipment by manufacturer’s guidance label each time buy a new piece of kit. you of Discuss equipment choice with a range managers, wall (e.g. decision makers climbers) qualified instructors, experienced understanding. your to help develop of particular requirements of the Be aware individuals to ensure all can participate e.g. headwear under helmets. Equipment manufacture involves thorough testing thorough involves Equipment manufacture with agreed Personal and the need to comply Equipment (PPE) standards. While Protective with various pieces of familiarising yourself should learn to recognise these equipment you manufacturers why standards and understand guidance on appropriate use and care. give A sound knowledge of equipment is important for of equipment A sound knowledge it is an Instructor because a Rock Climbing Misuse of climbing safely. element of integral dangerous can have climbing equipment are also likely instructor you consequences. As an on choice and suitability to offer advice to novices do cannot be done well if you of equipment which knowledge and appropriate not have understanding. TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – BELAYING AND PERSONAL SKILLS

SYLLABUS

3. BELAYING 4. PERSONAL SKILLS 3.1. Tie into the rope. Attach group members to the rope. 4.1. Choose and lead single pitch, Severe grade and F4, rock climbs in a safe, competent and assured 3.2. Demonstrate the use of direct and semi-direct belay manner. systems and choose the most appropriate for a given situation. 4.2. Demonstrate the skills of a competent second. 3.3. Set up top / bottom-rope systems and choose the 4.3. Interpret guidebooks effectively. most appropriate for a given situation. 4.4. Demonstrate a basic understanding of the 3.4. Hold falls and control lowers. safety chain and fall factors. 3.5. Supervise others belaying. 3.6. Attach self and others to the belay system ROCK CLIMBING and abseil ropes. Section 8.3 – 8.4.4: Belaying Section 6.6.6: Belay Devices Section 11: Leading climbs

9 TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – BELAYING AND PERSONAL SKILLS 10 Climb at a variety of different venues and Climb at a variety of different venues on different rock types around the UK and Ireland to help broaden your knowledge. Climb with different people to seek out climbing styles. new or alternative PERSONAL SKILLS PERSONAL SKILLS PERSONAL Your personal skills underpin your actions as a your skills underpin personal Your The experience Instructor. Rock Climbing listed as a for the scheme are requirements you additional experience therefore any minimum; overall towards your gain will only contribute development. KEY PRACTICE POINTS KEY PRACTICE GUIDANCE NOTES GUIDANCE ! BELAYING BELAYING suitable for use with a group of novices. Practise different belaying methods different belaying Practise how to belay to a group of novices. how to belay demonstrating how to tie onto the rope and how to tie onto demonstrating Develop an effective method for an effective Develop application. devices and understand their use and devices different manual and assisted braking belay belay different manual and assisted braking Familiarise yourself with a range of with a range Familiarise yourself Your personal competence and ability to personal competence Your task is therefore of the supervise others in this utmost importance. The broad experience requirements for entering for entering requirements experience The broad assume that Instructor scheme the Rock Climbing of with a variety are well practised candidates methods and techniques. different belaying of roped climbing and is a crucial element Belaying a potential cause of serious error is belayer accidents. TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – ABSEILING AND BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE

SYLLABUS

5. ABSEILING 6. BACKGROUND 5.1. Abseil without requiring a back-up safety rope. KNOWLEDGE 5.2. Demonstrate methods of safeguarding a novice 6.1. Demonstrate an awareness of the history, traditions abseiling. and ethics of climbing in the UK and Ireland. 5.3. Use common devices for abseiling competently and 6.2. Explain the role and philosophy of Mountain Training choose the most appropriate for a given situation. and its schemes, the mountaineering councils, climbing clubs and the National Indoor Climbing/Bouldering Award Schemes. 6.3. Describe the grading systems used in the UK and ROCK CLIMBING Ireland. Section 8.5: Abseiling in a single pitch environment Section 2: A brief history of British and Irish climbing

11 GUIDANCE NOTES TECHNICAL COMPETENCE ABSEILING BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE

Abseiling is a fundamental skill of a Rock Climbing Candidates enrolling onto the Rock Climbing Instructor. You may need to personally abseil for a Instructor scheme will be mountaineering council variety of reasons which may include: retrieving members. This gives access to a wide range of equipment, to reach the ground following rigging climbing resources which are valuable in starting climbs, assist a client in difﬁculty or to respond to the process of awareness of history, tradition, an incident on the crag. ethics and developments.

Abseiling is also commonly considered an activity Guidebooks can also be an important source of in its own right which means you need to be able information for rock climbers. In addition to route to support and safeguard novice participants. A identiﬁcation details, history and background and well set up system ensures participants enjoy the important access and environmental notes are activity and avoids problems occurring. contained within most guidebooks.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

ABSEILING BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE – ABSEILING AND BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE Explore the Mountain Training website to Practise rigging a personal abseil, ensuring gain a greater understanding of its role that the anchors are sound and equalised. and relationship with other key organisations such as the Practise using a prusik back up at ground mountaineering councils. level to help you understand its limitations and how it performs when loaded. Develop an understanding of the UK and Irish trad grading system, bouldering Develop your own safety checklist for grades and sport/indoor climbing grade abseiling. systems.

Practise rigging abseils for novice groups at various crags to develop your awareness of issues such as the approach to and from the site.

12 MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING – PLANNING AND ORGANISING

Rock Climbing Instructors should be able to independently organise, plan, manage and deliver climbing and bouldering sessions to a wide range of participants, often with support from an assistant. They should be able to:

SYLLABUS

7. PLANNING AND 8. ORGANISING SESSIONS STRUCTURE OF SESSIONS 8.1. In the case of an incident know how to call for relevant assistance. 7.1. Plan individual sessions and programmes of activities with appropriate aims and objectives. 8.2. Choose appropriate venues, activities and routes for group use considering: 7.2. Build in ﬂexibility when planning activities; respond to changing circumstances. 8.2.1. Suitability of approach/descent 8.2.2. Terrain at the base of the crag 7.3. Demonstrate an awareness of responsibility to any authorising organisation, parents/guardians, individual 8.2.3. Objective dangers. group members, the group as a whole and other site users. 7.4. Demonstrate an understanding of the impact of ROCK CLIMBING weather on climbing. Section 21: The law & risk management 7.5. Be aware of Mountain Training’s National Guidelines. Section 20: Incidents

13 GUIDANCE NOTES MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING PLANNING AND STRUCTURE PERSONAL SKILLS

OF SESSIONS Your choice of venues, activities, problems and routes can make or break your session and the Effective Rock Climbing Instructors recognise ability to make those decisions is developed that prior planning and good structuring of through knowledge and experience. sessions commonly result in participants having a safe and enjoyable time. In many ways, Knowing how, who and when to call for help are preparation is the hallmark of high quality crucial decisions for a Rock Climbing Instructor instruction. You should aim to use effective should an incident occur. Many crags are not easily questioning to gauge the group’s ability, aims and accessible from the road, which may mean an requirements for the session. ambulance cannot assist and you may need to engage alternative services.

If assistance is required then you’ll need to have sufﬁcient equipment to support the casualty until help arrives.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS PLANNING AND STRUCTURE PERSONAL SKILLS OF SESSIONS Research the approach and retreat from a crag in advance to help you manage Observe how other instructors plan and your clients appropriately and to ﬁnd out structure climbing and bouldering sessions about any objective dangers which may based around their clients’ aims and be present at the crag. objectives and how this might change with different circumstances such as poor What is the location of the crag? Make a weather, busy crags or challenging group

note of the grid-reference or the – PLANNING AND ORGANISING dynamics. postcode of a nearby building. The guidebook may well have this Make yourself familiar with the legal information. aspects of taking people climbing, in particular those under the age of 18. Check the network availability for phone coverage at the crag in advance as part of Read Mountain Training’s National your overall risk assessment. Guidelines. Research, using guidebooks and other resources, what emergency services are available in the area. It may be that the location of the crag requires a Mountain Rescue/Lowland Rescue team in an emergency rather than an ambulance.

14 MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING – MANAGEMENT OF PARTICIPANTS

SYLLABUS

9. MANAGEMENT OF PARTICIPANTS 9.1. Select appropriate management techniques to 9.5. Manage time appropriately in relation to the plan, safeguard all participants, irrespective of whether or not activity and conditions. they are directly involved with the climbing activity. 9.6. Avoid common roped climbing and abseiling 9.2. Utilise effective communication skills to: problems. 9.2.1. Set and review targets. 9.7. Resolve common problems if they occur. 9.2.2. Identify and react to the needs of the 9.8. Communicate with the group and individuals to group in relation to involvement, interest, identify whether anyone has an injury or disability that enjoyment and achievement. may require reasonable adjustments to be made to 9.3. Demonstrate an understanding of warming up and enable them to participate in the session. injury avoidance techniques. 9.4. Brief individuals and the group appropriately. ROCK CLIMBING Notes for Instructors in sections 1-3, 7, 8, 10, 11

15 MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING – MANAGEMENT OF PARTICIPANTS 16 Practise setting up climbs or abseils, then setting up climbs or abseils, Practise consider what issues could occur (for jammed climber, stuck/frozen example, and climber gone off route) abseil device, might readjust the system to how you that particular problem. Finally, avoid to have may consider what options you deal with the issue should it occur, at without putting the group or yourself risk. Rock Climbing Instructor will be able to reduce the able to reduce the Instructor will be Rock Climbing careful problems arising through chances of be continually should You decision making. adjusting the and where appropriate monitoring of problems. upon the prevention session based are foreseeable, as some That said, not all issues regardless of any time any incidents can occur at occur Should a situation control measures taken. you form of intervention, which requires some swiftly and chose an need to be able to react safety and that action. Your appropriate course of be maintained throughout. of the group should solution to deal with the Aim to ﬁnd the simplest than relying on a particular technique. issue rather KEY PRACTICE POINTS KEY PRACTICE GUIDANCE NOTES GUIDANCE ! why. what methods work well and understand what methods work well and understand family can be useful for this) and evaluate family can be useful for this) and evaluate instructions to novice climbers (friends and instructions to novice Practise delivering brieﬁngs and delivering Practise to know a group. Experiment with different ways of getting Experiment with different ways If you get to know your group, can communicate group, can to know your get If you will common issues you with them and anticipate the session. An effective be well placed to manage You should aim to gain as much experience as gain as much experience should aim to You observing or working alongside other possible by a solid of developing instructors as a way people management foundation of different which can then be used when working strategies instructor. independently as an The role of a Rock Climbing Instructor is to a Rock Climbing Instructor The role of climbing safe and successful facilitate a group in the group. Each for everyone experience management and good people will be different competencies with the technical skills, along underpin the earlier in the syllabus, highlighted whole session. of your delivery The law & risk management Section 21: The law Section 8: Single pitch venues ROCK CLIMBING Demonstrate appropriate methods of protecting 11.1. Demonstrate at height during all activities. while operating themselves 11. PERSONAL SAFETY SYLLABUS

10. DECISION MAKING 10.1. Carry out dynamic risk assessments throughout each climbing session. of the group 10.2. Assess the abilities and objectives participating in the session.

– DECISION MAKING AND PERSONAL SAFETY

MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING 17 MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING – DECISION MAKING AND PERSONAL SAFETY 18 Ensure that the anchor being used to safeguard the instructor is reliable. Experiment with adjusting different that methods of safeguarding yourself to set up safely without enable you in a position where a fall putting yourself can happen. of range various methods on a Practise an to develop different crags understanding of which approach will suit each scenario. PERSONAL SAFETY PERSONAL SAFETY PERSONAL Rock Climbing Instructors will regularly spend Instructors will Rock Climbing in order to set up top of a crag time at the As the systems for their groups. climbing/abseiling are different, crag conditions of each nature and of methods to a range instructors can utilise ensure their safety. to be carried out with These methods need equipment, which may commonly used climbing than rather of improvisation, some level involve item of specialist equipment. If relying on a speciﬁc care must used extreme single anchors are being be taken. KEY PRACTICE POINTS KEY PRACTICE GUIDANCE NOTES GUIDANCE ! environment. and then applied to the climbing can be used as a base level of knowledge can be used as a base level controlling risks and risk assessment. This controlling risks and risk assessment. This approaches to sensible risk management, approaches to sensible risk management, Research relevant health and safety Research relevant you have done? have you they make those decisions? What would make they decisions they made along the way. Why did Why made along the way. decisions they delivering a session and review the a session and review delivering Observe other instructors planning and Observe DECISION MAKING DECISION DECISION MAKING Learning to make good decisions is a challenging good decisions to make Learning of being a Rock Climbing part and enjoyable and time, practice It takes Instructor. lead to more and will ultimately self-reﬂection clients so it is and your you successful sessions for worth the effort. MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING TECHNIQUES – KNOWLEDGE AND DEMONSTRATION OF

SYLLABUS

12. KNOWLEDGE AND DEMONSTRATION OF TECHNIQUES 12.1. Deliver technical instruction to individuals and the 12.3. Supervise a group of novice climbers in the following group including: activities: 12.1.1. Choice and ﬁtting of suitable harnesses 12.3.1. Belaying and tying-in 12.1.2. Attaching the rope to the harness 12.3.2. Climbing 12.1.3. Effective belaying 12.3.3. Bouldering 12.1.4. Abseiling. 12.3.4. Abseiling 12.2. Teach and demonstrate fundamental climbing movement skills. ROCK CLIMBING Section 4: Movement skills Section 5: Training and improving technique

19 MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING GUIDANCE NOTES TECHNIQUES

Rock Climbing Instructors need to build up a The key aspect of demonstrating skills is to ensure portfolio of knowledge and demonstration that you know your subject well and have techniques to effectively facilitate a session. practised it a number of times, ideally with Often, instructors will ﬁnd themselves working feedback and criticism to allow for greater with large groups of novices, where a simple skill development (be an ‘expert model’). See also such as ﬁtting a helmet will need a well thought syllabus section 14 Teaching and learning skills out demonstration.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

Revisit ‘Key practice points’ in syllabus Develop a range of safe bouldering sections 1, 3 and 5 (Equipment, Belaying activities for a variety of groups. and Abseiling).

Film your demonstrations on a mobile device and review them. – KNOWLEDGE AND DEMONSTRATION OF

20 13.2. Manage an assistant. SYLLABUS

13.MANAGING/SUPERVISING OTHER STAFF OTHER STAFF 13.MANAGING/SUPERVISING 13.1. Explain the role and scope of an assistant. Describe using an the opportunities and liabilities presented by assistant in a session.

MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING – MANAGING/SUPERVISING OTHER STAFF 21 MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING – MANAGING/SUPERVISING OTHER STAFF 22

Get into the habit of discussing your Get into the habit of discussing your and session with an assistant to give feedback. receive you should not use an assistant and not be an assistant and not should not use you By definition to work with them either. compelled of staff or an unqualified member an assistant are you independently and cannot work the actions of an for the group and responsible deployment all times. All assistant assistant at before each session begins. should be risk assessed are appropriately It is essential that assistants so that there can the instructor, you, supervised by and guidance given. be constant communication specific guidance on It is not possible to give with assistants as this ratios instructor/student a severely example, For will vary with the situation. from the support of benefit disabled climber may closely with working very two or more assistants group may a talented academy an instructor whilst benefit from one qualified and experienced in a assistant working in sight of the instructor remains bouldering wall. The qualified instructor must ultimately responsible for the group and if necessary. be in a position to intervene always KEY PRACTICE POINTS KEY PRACTICE GUIDANCE NOTES GUIDANCE ! sight and easy communication at all times. effectiveness, keeping assistants within keeping effectiveness, Practise maintaining a position of maximum maintaining a position Practise role and remit. Practise briefing an assistant about their briefing an assistant Practise Assistants and other staff come with a wide range range Assistants and other staff come with a wide are competencies and you and of experience in doubt wholly responsible for assessing these. If Assistants and other unqualified staff can be of and other unqualified Assistants that they a session provided enormous benefit to the can support They are managed appropriately. individual requirements, their talented, those with and children. They peers, or their own students role models for the can also be powerful Indoor Climbing Training participants. A Mountain clearly defined technical Assistant can help with climbing equipment, roles such as fitting personal and managing a single backing up belayers judgement about bottom-rope climb. However, and how be undertaken, what activities are to to be managed, remains with the are they and the yourself Do not overburden instructor. assistant. An assistant is any person who supports an person who supports is any An assistant but who of their session in the delivery instructor about the decisions or make does not direct of the session. management Help participants develop a positive attitude a positive 14.4. Help participants develop towards climbing and introduce the idea of lifelong participation. Identify and use appropriate tasks to develop 14.5. Identify and use appropriate tasks to develop effective and safe climbers. effective Demonstrate an understanding of the reasons for 14.6. Demonstrate evaluating a session and success of the outcome. evaluating

SYLLABUS Rock Climbing Instructors will frequently need to give tuition and support to a range of climbers in a variety of climbing of climbers tuition and support to a range Rock Climbing Instructors will frequently need to give be able to: should related techniques. They Create and maintain a positive learning 14.1. Create and maintain a positive for all participants. environment appropriately with a and 14.2. Communicate effectively group and individuals, checking for understanding. an ability to adapt the teaching style 14.3. Demonstrate to meet group needs. 14. TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS

TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS 23 TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS 24

Experiment with different ways of Experiment with different ways checking for understanding. styles and different delivery Practise might think about when/with whom you use them. appropriate level of challenge and structure a task and structure of challenge level appropriate but not to and stretch the climber to stimulate also need to or defeat them. Instructors intimidate approach. If a particular in their be adaptive well then they or activity is not working technique better suit the their approach to should adapt needs of the group. can offer a valuable Remember that assistants teaching. with your you resource to support connected with the group and Assistants are often their individual needs and will know much about information to to deliver potentially how best them. are different due to the All instructional sessions and the conditions of the day. nature of the group upon the outcome of Instructors should reflect or each session and consider changes of style the outcomes of the improve content that may one. next KEY PRACTICE POINTS KEY PRACTICE GUIDANCE NOTES GUIDANCE ! clearly. Make sure everyone can see and hear you can see and hear you sure everyone Make dynamics. session and to enable you to observe group to observe session and to enable you engage learners at the beginning of a Learn some effective games/activities to games/activities effective some Learn In addition to these communication skills effective communication skills effective In addition to these to teaching requires instructors to be able and assess participants’ abilities and observe the then need to calibrate They confidence levels. Good communication skills are key. The ability to skills are key. Good communication communicate at an appropriate create rapport, of a variety provide language, use positive level, techniques, check for demonstration skilled questioning and understanding through to feedback and encouragement useful give of effective individuals are the foundations teaching. Climbing Instructors need to quickly create an need to quickly Climbing Instructors their and confidence within of trust environment and relaxed participants feel group so that challenging to tackle new and comfortable individual requirements, Age, ability, activities. group amongst the and energy levels confidence this. approaches to achieve will require different THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT – ACCESS AND CONSERVATION

Rock Climbing Instructors should be informed and experienced in a variety of climbing environments, such as the indoor climbing wall environment, including both small and large scale (commercial) venues; outdoor climbing venues, including both ‘trad’ and ‘sport’ climbing venues. They should have a broad knowledge of the issues and challenges affecting access and use of a variety of climbing areas. They should be able to:

SYLLABUS

15. ACCESS 16. CONSERVATION 15.1. Source current access information and act 16.1. Have a basic working knowledge of the rock accordingly. climbing environment including geology and natural history. 15.2. Show an awareness of important climbing wall rules and regulations, and demonstrate an ability to obtain and 16.2. Operate in such a way as to minimise impact on the comply with this information. environment.

16.3. Pass on basic environmental knowledge in an appropriate and engaging way to educate and enthuse. ROCK CLIMBING 16.4. Manage groups so that they have minimal impact Section 1.6: Access restrictions and leave the crags in an improved condition where possible. Section 1: The climbing environment

25 THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT – ACCESS AND CONSERVATION 26 CONSERVATION CONSERVATION Research the mountaineering councils’ websites and publications for guidance access and on environmental, conservation information. contain will Most guidebooks to crags some information which should be if it’s going climbing, even before checked a familiar site. This information should then be researched further online for any updates. Create some basic resources for your for them to participants as a useful way engage more with the environment. General knowledge about the environment the the about the environment knowledge General history of valuable. The is always group is visiting basic knowledge of with some the area combined life can illuminate plants and animal the land use, and for the participants the climbing experience are As an instructor you initiate a lifelong interest. this information to novices best placed to deliver ecosystem of the fragile be unaware who may as an activity.. which supports climbing KEY PRACTICE POINTS KEY PRACTICE GUIDANCE NOTES GUIDANCE ! ACCESS ACCESS Republic of Ireland. Scotland, Northern Ireland and the legislation between England, Wales, legislation between England, Wales, Research the differences in access councils’ access teams. and the work of the mountaineering Research initiatives like ‘Leave No Trace’ No Trace’ ‘Leave like Research initiatives information. sources and check for the accuracy of the sources and check for the accuracy never visited before – be creative with your your with before – be creative visited never Source access information for a crag you’ve you’ve Source access information for a crag As a Rock Climbing Instructor you have a have you Climbing Instructor As a Rock and facility to respect landowners responsibility As a minimum, with regards to access. managers to codes of should conform supervised group any access and comply with relevant good practice between the nations differ legislation, which may along with local restrictions of the UK and Ireland or guidelines. THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT – ETIQUETTE AND ETHICS

SYLLABUS

17. ETIQUETTE AND ETHICS 17.1. Describe their responsibilities to the general public, 17.4. Describe the hazards presented to other site users other facility users, environmental agencies, local by the actions of a group and act to minimise these. residents, landowners and the wider climbing community. 17.5. Describe the site-specific requirements and 17.2. Describe local rock climbing ethics related to single agreements relating to different crags, climbing walls and pitch crags. artificial structures. 17.3. Operate a flexible programme of activities so as to accommodate other site or facility users.

27 THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT – ETIQUETTE AND ETHICS 28 Engaging with other facility users to find ways of to find ways other facility users Engaging with each other is a disruption between minimising as vacating routes start, for example really good ropes instead of leaving are finished soon as you of other users group aware your Make unattended. not be directly supervising may you too as at times are engaged with other tasks such as while you top of a crag. setting up ropes on the KEY PRACTICE POINTS KEY PRACTICE GUIDANCE NOTES GUIDANCE ! and spread out. Learn to avoid taking over whole sections of a crag/wall – it’s usually better to split into smaller groups – it’s usually better to split into whole sections of a crag/wall taking over avoid to Learn Instructors need to set a good example while a good example Instructors need to set or wall at a crag supervising or climbing Good behaviour of climbers at crags and climbing and climbing climbers at crags of Good behaviour and reduce friction maintain access walls can help which and land owners, between facility same applies to supports access. The ultimately their relationship and their groups and instructors climbers. with fellow DEFINITIONS 1 – APPENDIX is climbed without intermediate stances. is climbed without intermediate

SINGLE PITCH PITCH SINGLE For the purposes of this scheme, a single pitch route is one which: a single pitch route purposes of this scheme, the For

guidebook. as a single pitch in the is described ground at all times. climbers to be lowered to the allows danger. objective is non-tidal and has little or navigating. such as route ﬁnding, scrambling presents no difﬁculties on approach or retreat, TRADITIONAL PROTECTION TRADITIONAL Traditional protection includes equipment such as cams, hexes and nuts which are placed in cracks and weaknesses in the and weaknesses are placed in cracks and nuts which as cams, hexes protection includes equipment such Traditional rock by a lead climber as they climb. The protection is then clipped to the rope using a quickdraw. The protection is then clipped to the climb. a lead climber as they rock by

– DEFINITIONS

APPENDIX 1 29

APPENDIX 2 – ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 30

ADDITIONAL 2 – APPENDIX INFORMATION

COURSE DELIVERY DELIVERY COURSE Providers of Rock Climbing Instructor courses will appoint a course director for each course. of Rock Climbing Instructor courses Providers Mountain Training courses are delivered by approved providers throughout the UK and Ireland. providers approved by courses are delivered Mountain Training http://www.mountain-training.org/ﬁnd/ﬁnd-a-course Courses can be found by searching on the Candidate Management System (CMS) https://mt.tahdah.me or on our website or on https://mt.tahdah.me Management System (CMS) searching on the Candidate by Courses can be found

Your training and assessment result will be recorded on the Candidate Management System (CMS). on the Candidate Management System and assessment result will be recorded training Your EXEMPTION FROM TRAINING EXEMPTION relevant training in the management of climbing groups and assistants. in the management of climbing groups training relevant minimum experience requirements for attendance at an assessment course and demonstrate that they have received received have that they requirements for attendance at an assessment course and demonstrate minimum experience climbing walls may apply for exemption from training. To qualify for exemption candidates must, at the very least, meet the least, must, at the very candidates qualify for exemption To from training. apply for exemption climbing walls may Experienced climbers who already have substantial personal climbing experience and experience of supervising groups on of supervising and experience substantial personal climbing experience Experienced climbers who already have Further details of the exemption process can be found on the Mountain Training website. be found on the Mountain Training process can of the exemption details Further

There is no exemption from assessment. There is no exemption FURTHER EXPERIENCE regularly dedicate some time to your development both as a climber and as a Rock Climbing Instructor. development regularly dedicate some time to your with good practice for as long as you are using your qualification. Mountain Training would like to encourage you to you to encourage would like qualification. Mountain Training are using your as you for as long with good practice Once you have passed the Rock Climbing Instructor assessment you are responsible for remaining current and up to date the Rock Climbing Instructor assessment you passed have Once you benefits. candidates by providing access to developmental workshops, conferences and peer learning events among other member among other member and peer learning events workshops, conferences access to developmental providing candidates by The Mountain Training Association (MTA) is a membership association designed to support both trainee and qualified association designed to support both trainee is a membership Association (MTA) The Mountain Training context of a site specific scheme. context group climbing at a sport climbing quarry, may be enabled to do so either through in-house training and/or within the and/or be enabled to do so either through in-house training may group climbing at a sport climbing quarry, qualification(s) by virtue of their additional experience and/or training, for example a Rock Climbing Instructor taking a for example training, and/or virtue of their additional experience qualification(s) by individual in the case of self-employed leaders. Rock Climbing Instructors who wish to operate beyond the scope of their beyond leaders. Rock Climbing Instructors who wish to operate individual in the case of self-employed The responsibility for ensuring that leaders receive refresher training must lie with the provider of the service, or the must lie with the provider refresher training receive The responsibility for ensuring that leaders of safety management. anyone with a responsibility for climbing, walking and mountaineering related activities, and encompassing the principles with a responsibility for climbing, anyone Mountain Training publishes a digital document called the National Guidelines which provides advice on good practice for advice on good practice a digital document called the National Guidelines which provides publishes Mountain Training PERSONAL REFLECTIVE COMMENTS PERSONAL REFLECTIVE COMMENTS of the session? What are the desired aims and objectives comments candidates should ask themselves the following questions and outline their responses: comments candidates should ask themselves ing potential improvements for the future. When making these few critically analysed sessions are of great value in identifying potential improvements reflect on one’s personal practice to develop fluency. Being able to effectively analyse experience can be challenging but a analyse experience Being able to effectively fluency. to develop personal practice reflect on one’s Mountain Training qualification syllabus, and supporting guidance notes, where there is a desire or perceived need to syllabus, and supporting guidance notes, where there is a desire or perceived qualification Mountain Training The key aim of undertaking these reflective comments is to identify and reflect on areas of practice from the relevant from the relevant comments is to identify and reflect on areas of practice aim of undertaking these reflective The key also independently consider our experiences in relation to the desired outcome. in relation also independently consider our experiences important part of an instructor’s development. Although feedback from others can be very useful it is important we can Although feedback from others can be very important part of an instructor’s development. Climbing Instructor, Climbing Wall Instructor and Climbing Wall Development Instructor. Reflecting on experience is an Reflecting on experience Instructor. Development Instructor and Climbing Wall Climbing Wall Climbing Instructor, Mountain Training presently requires assessment candidates to have reflective comments recorded in DLOG for the Rock recorded in DLOG comments reflective requires assessment candidates to have presently Mountain Training the session? of delivery syllabus) in your Mountain Training What was successful and less successful (reference the relevant What were the actual outcomes of the session? Your responses can then be added into DLOG in the comments section of the relevant DLOG entry. DLOG in the comments section of the relevant responses can then be added into DLOG Your the outcome? would change to improve What you

CANDIDATE MANAGEMENT CANDIDATE DLOG AND SYSTEM

If you can’t ﬁnd the climbing wall/tower/centre you are looking for please let us know and we will add it to the you ﬁnd the climbing wall/tower/centre can’t If you You can use the ‘Frequency’ drop down to insert multiple records in one go. For example, if you ran a similar ran if you example, records in one go. For drop down to insert multiple can use the ‘Frequency’ You

to record your journey through our schemes. through our journey tahdah to record your uses software powered by Mountain Training You can use the system to: can use the system You for a qualiﬁcation register course or assessment for a training search or mountaineering council join an association shop books from the Mountain Training buy recommended (the digital logbook) in DLOG experience record your LOGGING YOUR EXPERIENCE The foundation of your success as a Rock Climbing Instructor is your experience. It is this experience that enables you to that enables you It is this experience experience. success as a Rock Climbing Instructor is your The foundation of your an instructor as pass an assessment and then continue to develop learning, consolidate your course, learn from the training and climber. https://mt.tahdah.me access e-learning modules There are fourteen activities you can log, including indoor climbing, trad climbing and outdoor bouldering and all of them trad can log, including indoor climbing, There are fourteen activities you to help with the on the screen - please read these searching the database. There are some information boxes start by logging process. Top tips: Top on artiﬁcial structures. climbing or instructing/assisting personal ‘Indoor climbing’ should be used to record any for four weeks, select ‘Weekly’ session each week range from the drop down menu, select the appropriate date the record, it will create four entries. save and when you

database. UPLOADING PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE If you have recorded your experience in another format already and want to start using DLOG, you can upload your existing existing can upload your you and want to start using DLOG, in another format already experience recorded your have If you jpg and png.) pdf, logbook as a file to the Files tab. (The Files tab accepts various file formats including word, excel, Many candidates who do this also choose to create DLOG records for their most recent or most significant sessions. records for their most recent or most significant candidates who do this also choose to create DLOG Many SHARING YOUR DLOG When you book on to a training or assessment course, your logbook will become visible to the course director. If you would If you logbook will become visible to the course director. or assessment course, your book on to a training When you clicking on the course director by logbook with a mentor/friend/future can share your some feedback prior to this, you like can access it. Share tab, entering their email address and selecting the length of time they

CANDIDATE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM AND DLOG 31 MOUNTAIN TRAINING ASSOCIATION 32 information. website for more account or visit the *full members Simply pay online via Simply pay Membership is annual. your Mountain Training your HOW TO JOIN Access to accredited CPD workshops MEMBER BENEFITS Quarterly magazine and monthly e-newsletter on outdoor gear and courses Big savings for civil liability insurance* Specially negotiated rates Online resources and guidance events Regional networking and training merchandise branded MTA online* and promote yourself Advertise logo to promote yourself* Use the MTA is a voluntary membership organisation organisation membership Association is a voluntary The Mountain Training qualification s and working towards our support candidates designed to them. already have for those who opportunities development provide practice good and encouraging to fostering progression It is committed professionally-led activities. so that others can enjoy amongst its members need to succeed. and get the support you Join the MTA definitely made me a betterdefinitely made me a leader” - Alex Kendall (MTA member, 2016) member, - Alex Kendall (MTA for a Mountain Training for a Mountain Training Anyone that has registered Anyone WHO CAN JOIN “The workshops I've done have been brilliant and have been brilliant done have “The workshops I've you can take advantage of all can take you of the great benefits on offer. Mountain Training Association. Mountain Training The sooner you join the quicker The sooner you qualification is welcome to join the MOUNTAIN TRAINING – PUBLICATIONS

Official handbooks to support you through our schemes.

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Hillwalking Rock Climbing Navigation in the Mountains STEVE LONG LIBBY PETER CARLO FORTE ISBN 978 0954 151195 ISBN 978 0954 151164 ISBN 978 0954 151157 Essential skills and techniques Tools and techniques for navigating in of the Mountain Training for all aspects of single-pitch, the hills and mountains including winter, walking schemes. multi-pitch and indoor climbing. overseas and GPS.

Winter Skills International Mountain Trekking ANDY CUNNINGHAM & ALLEN FYFFE PLAS Y BRENIN INSTRUCTIONAL TEAM ISBN 978 0954 151133 ISBN 978 0954 151171 An essential reference tool for every A practical manual for trekkers and leaders mountaineer venturing onto covering all elements of international trekking. non-glaciated snow and ice.

Available in all good bookshops and online www.mountain-training.org