AZMİ ÖZER

ZELİHA ÖZER

S/Y TURQUOISE

DADDrally Aegean 2018

1-10 June 2018

Turgutreis D-Marin

Pitagorion (Samos Island)

Mesta (Chios Island)

Linaria (Skyros Island)

Panormou (Skopelos Island)

Volos (Mainland, Greece)

10 days, 290 nm

0

Turgutreis – Volos (1-10 June 2018) (290 nm)

DADDrally Aegean 2018 In this respect, captains of 16 boats let us know that they could be in Turgutreis D-Marin till June 2, 2018, in order to start DADD's prestige rally, We had planned our DADDrallies to be held in DADDrally Black Sea 2018 (3 Countries, 1 Story) 2018, after the DADDcommemoration Sadun Boro from Volos on time. However, due to technical, 2018 event to be held in Gökova on 3-5 June health and visa problems at the last minute, 12 2018. Approximately 50 boats had been boats were able to arrive at Turgutreis D-Marin by registered with DADDrally Aegean 2018 and June,2. DADDrally Blacksea 2018 (3 Countries, 1 Story). The time limitation would require both long However, due to the early general elections, we journeys and would significantly reduce the re-programmed our rally programs to allow each number of trips on the islands. Nevertheless, the participant to be able to go to vote. Therefore we fact that we will cruise 300 nm with the spirit of made a collaboration because of the time limit. Denizlerdeyiz and sail long time each cruising day The start date of DADDrally Aegean 2018 was togather and travel opportunities for those who taken 3 days earlier and the duration of the rally will not be able to join the Blacksea rally would was shortened, so that DADDrally Blacksea 2018 make the DADDralli Aegean 2018 partly attractive. (3 Countries, 1 Story) should depart on time from Participants have successfully arrived at Volos in the city of Volos on the mainland of Greece. It was Greece in a short time (eight days). The sacrifices decided that some of the boats would go to Volos of the participants to represent DADD are without participating in the commemoration admirable. event.

1

As the commodore of DADDrally Aegean 2018, I would like to thank all our members who have participated in this rally and who are with us by heart.

Participants of DADDrally Aegean 2018

SY Turquoise (Ali Azmi Özer, Zeliha Özer)

SY Melody (Ahmet Can Bakır)

SY Ertürk 3 (Ali Demir Ertürk, Nihal Ertürk) DADDralli Ege 2018 boats at Turgutreis D-Marin

SY Ülgen (Cemal Ülgen, Münevver Ülgen) June 2, 2018, Saturday SY Üçüncü Bahar (Erdal Demiralp, Nihal Demiralp) After all boats were ready for the rally, we made a SY Liga (Galip Duru, Füsun Duru) presentation on the rally at 18:30. Informations were given about the routes and the places to be SY Blue Ice (İsmail Tuğrul Koyuncu, Zeynep moored, as well as about the rules of the rally, Koyuncu) safety and assistance. SY Denizkızı (Mehmet Göbülük, Melahat Kırmızıyeşil)

Catamaran Enjoy (Metin Alkan, Canan Durmaz)

SY Borina (Osman Öztürk, Kadriye Öztürk)

SY Kekova (Sezgin Şevki Tekin, Betül Tekin)

SY Katya (Yavuz Batur, Catherine Batur)

29 participants in 12 boats in total with 6 guests on 3 boats DADDrally Aegean 2018 Presentation Meeting

We have identified VHF 73 as the communication June 1, 2018, Friday channel. We also created a WhatsApp group called Route-1 DADDrally Aegean 2018 to ensure Turgutreis D-Marin (37°00’.228N 027°15’.379E) effective communication among the commodore DADDrally Aegean 2018 boats began to gather in and the participants on rally and cruise issues. We Turgutreis D-Marin. Most of us moored to the agreed to share general issues, those did not pontoon G, and a few boats to A and C pontoons. concern all participants, in the DADDrally Aegean- 2018 WhatsApp group, which was created before Today is the day of meeting, shopping and making the organization. small repairs. After the presentation, the participants were handed out a promotional bag with DADD t-shirts,

2

hats, a DADD flag, and Skippers Cockpit Guide. The importance of wearing the DADD t-shirt in all DADD activities was emphasized.

33 DADD members met for dinner at 20:30 at Turgutreis D-Marin Yacht Club. At this delightful dinner, we knew each other better and increased team-spirit for the beginning of the rally tomorrow morning.

DADDrally Aegean 2018 boats, Turgutreis customs dock

The wind started to rise at noon. TWS (True Wind Speed) was 15 kn and increased to 20 kn off Didim, then continued to rise. Turquoise had an autopilot and engine problem for a while. For that reason, we preferred to sail by tacking many times. When we arrived at the port of Pythagorion after dark, there was no place in the quay. We Turgutreis D-Marin Yacht Club overnighted at anchor with a couple of boats that came after us.

When a room became available at the city quay in June 3, 2018, Sunday Monday morning at 9 o’clock, I docked Turgutreis-Pitagorion (37°41’.343N 026°56’.741E) immediately. Then other DADD boats at anchor came to moor to the city quay. (44 nm) It is very easy to do checking in Greece. Port We are going to the custom area, next to the Authority/Police, Customs and Passport Police are Turgutreis D-Marin, to complete check out around the harbor. When the agency requested procedures from Turkey. We had given the 100 € per boat, the group chose to do all the necessary documents yesterday to the DADD operations themselves. contracted agency. However, due to reasons we First we got “crew list” from the Port Police and did not understand, it took a long time. The boats filled it out by hand and then went to the passport that finished the check out precedures set sail one police at the ferry port. All non-EU people on the by one. When Turquoise left at 12:15, the boats have to go to the passport police to give operations of three boats were in progress. their finger prints. After passports and crew list were stamped by passport police we went to the custom ofice next to the Port Authority to take a transitlog for foreign yachts. The staff filled in transitlogs digitally. The transitlog fee is € 30 for Turkish flagged boats and € 45 for the third country boats (ie the US flagged boats). Then we went to the port police for ratification of

3

transitlog and crew list. We paid € 15 landing fee per boat to the port police. S/Y Borina was involved in an accident while coming from the anchorage area to the quay. Ms Öztürk was injured due to the sad accident. I immediately called an ambulance through the port police. We stayed for 4 hours in the hospital in center of the island (Vathi), and since Ms Öztürk was unable to continue the rally due to health reasons, Borina decided to return to . (Even though our mood has been lost Taverna Maritsa, Pitagorion, Samos Island due to this sad accident, the good news of Ms Öztürk, who would be taken to the hospital in At the end of the dinner, as usually, we talked Bodrum, with the help of the sea ambulance in about our next cruise. Weather forcasts show Turkish territorial waters, boosted the morale of light southern wind. We will set sail at 05:15 all the participants). tomorrow morning, as in the program, towards the south west of Chios, Salagona (Avlonia) coves. We will re-evaluate the weather condition on the way and if necessary, consider proceeding to Mesta Bay, where is closed to southerly winds to overnight.

June 5, 2018 Tuesday Pitagorion-Mesta (38°17’.360N 025°55’.826E)

(76 nm)

Pitagorion, Samos Island/Greece DADDrally Aegean 2018 boats weighed anchors at dawn. Before the dinner, we took the photo of the group and shouted 1-2-3 DADDrally as the DADDrally ritual. I had agreed a fix menu (jumbo shrimp, calamari, barbecue fish, etc. €16 per person) with Tavern Maritsa, known as one of good restaurants in Pitagorion, for dinner. As Borina team insisted us to continue the program, we, 25 participants, had a pleasant dinner, although we feel some bitter.

Pitagorion, Samos İsland Southerly wind is gentle, sometimes rises up to 15 kn. Still, the teams prefer to go to Mesta instead

4

of Salagona Bay which is open to the south. Since port for dinner. The restaurant is just across the our way is long, we did not shut the engine down small pier and has free wi-fi, and the food is not and arrived at Mesta at 5pm. bad.

Cruising to Mesta Port, Chios Island, Greece Mesta pier, and behind are DADD boats moored to the quay Only 3 boats moored alongside the small pier. Others moored stern to very high and long ferry quay, where warships were moored alongside, in Mesta Port. The officers did not help us to moor. Ms Betül Tekin from S/Y Kekova tied all of us, under very difficult conditions, thanks to her. Because the ferry quay is quite high it is not possible to go ashore by using paserella. We used dinghy boats to go to the jetty and made stamped our transitlogs at the Port Authority.

(PS: Since it is not possible to go ashore, staying at Faro Tavern, Mesta Port anchor can be preffered to mooring to the high Social facilities in the port are not much. We have quay). gathered in various boats, while some of us are chatting, some of us are playing guitar, and Mehmet Akyürek who has a multi-colored personality sings a song. How do we know? He broadcasts it in radio channel 73! The weather forcasts shows 10-15 kn southerly wind for tomorrow evening and westerly for the next day. Psara, next stop in our program, is open to the South. If we overnight at Psara Port we feel uncomfortable, and the next day we take the wind from the head. We decided to go to Skiros directly. So we will be able to rest 2 days in Skiros. Mesta, Chios Island Our way is 77 nm long, therefore we decided to Mesta, the best-preserved medieval city of Chios, set sail tomorrow at dawn. is 3-4 km away from the port. It is advisable to take a taxi and visit Mesta. Not much choice at the

5

I sent an e-mail to the port of Skyros / Marina, which is very small. I also informed Volos about the situation. They can help us to find enough space at the marina if necessary. S/Y Katya, who stayed in Samos to accompany S/Y Borina, informed me that she would depart from Pitagorion soon, after the good news of Borina. She will catch us tomorrow in Skiros.

June 6, 2018 Wednesday Mesta-Linaria (38°17’.360N 025°55’.826E)(77 nm)

I woke up at 5 o’clock in the morning when the alarm rang and saw that almost all boats were weighing anchor in the dark. All captains of the rally are impetuous, no one complain of tiredness and sleeplessness. It is easy to be the Commodore of such a group! Cruising to Skyros This time we catched a small (5-6 kg) tuna fish. We cooked fish soup, immediately. For some reason, I lost my voice completely, it never happened to me before. Honey milk, tea, maybe fish soup is good. (Although I ate much to increase my body resistance and I took antibiotics regularly, my voice did not recover for two weeks. I used another very powerful antibiotic to recover from the epidemic disease that occured in the hospital in Samos. Then I was able to talk almost Mesta, ferry and military quay, Chios İsland normally, either the last antibiotic worked, or When I left as the last boat, the weather wasn't completely a coincidence. I have to talk a lot as a even fully lit. There was only one warship left at commodore, it is quite disturbing to be able to the dock. speak in a very low voice. Taking such a lot antibiotics is risky for health, but any port in a The wind was light at the beginning, when it storm). increased to 10 kn at 8 o’clock the morning, I shut down the engine and started to sail beam reach. In Linaria, the tiny harbor is run like a marina. The There are a lot of tuna fish in the middle of the main mooring place is the city quay, with a Aegean Sea. Let’s have some time for fishing. In maximum capacity of 8-10 boats. There are 10 the meantime, S/Y Katya saw us from AIS, she is vaults at sea to the east of the bay. They offered 10 nm behind. So we will wait for S/Y Katya, while us this place, but we didn't want to use dinghy to fishing at a slow pace. land. Mooring stern to quay by car park (behind petrol station) is possible for 7-8 boats. 4 of us

6

moored alongside. If necessary the mooring boat helps. Skyros is an island that gives much importance to the nature and cleanliness. Those staying in the harbor/marina can take advantage of bathroom/toilet, laundry, water, electricity and wi-fi facilities, accessed with a password. However, mooring fee (including electricity, water and wi-fi) is quite high compared to other Greek islands. (22,5 € per day for a boat with a length of 12-13 meters). Linaria, Sykiros Island, Greece Fuel can be provided from fuel station (Price for Port police building is 300 meters away uphill. diesel is € 1,55 a liter). A large ferryboat arrives at Immediately after mooring, check in procedures fuel station at 20:00 in the evening and departs at of the island must be completed. The port police 08:00 in the morning. There's no problem while it comes and collects the paperwork. I think Turkish departs, but she creates big waves (therefore boats arrives at the island very rarely. When I had problems for masts) while maneuvering to the arrived first here in 2017, the officers had not fuel station at arrival. For this reason, it is very known what to do. I had explanied them how to important to pay attention to the masts of the do it for over an hour. The procedures of DADD boats, while mooring to this quay. boats arriving the next day had lasted only a few minutes. This time, when I went to the office again, I saw that everyone's documents were on table and the officers didn't know what to do. All officers were new. I explained them what to do again, after transit logs get stamped I took all documents completed and distributed them to the rally boats. I hope that when we come here in 2019, the team doesn't change, or before they leave, they train new officers. Skyros Island is worth a ride. The marina officer helps visitors to rent a car. Rent a car phone Linaria, Sykiros Island, Greece numbers/contact information are available on the board by the city quay. At least, it is advisable to visit the center (Chora) , which is 10 km away from Linaria, by public bus which are not very common. Holy Monastery of St. George, The Faltaits Historical and Folklore Museum and the Archaelogical Museum may be visited. The north of the island is forested and the south is like a stony desert. There are interesting shaped rocks here.

7

After the ferryboat departed we set sail to Skopelos Island. TWS 7-10 kn, from NW. We started to sail close hauled first, then wind came from North East, so we sailed beam reach, some of us opened gennakers.

Sykiros Island, Greece On the morning of June 8th, 7 cars were rented and a sightseeing tour was held. We had dinner at one of the restaurants opposite the city quay (Restaurant Psariotis, ΨAΡIΩTHΣ) which we also had dinner in 2017. (Prices: Fish € 30 per kg, lobster € 50 per kg, meat dishes € 7, vegetable to Skopelos dishes € 6. At the end of the meal, they offered us sweet, watermelon and hot wine). S/Y Dragos was waiting for us at the pier in Loutra. Captain Rıza had departed from to join us for DADDrally Blacksea 2018. I contacted with Captain Rıza while approaching the island. There was no place available at the pier and 7 boats were at anchor. The first arriving DADD boats preferred to stay at anchor in Loutra. We, 9 boats, preferred to stay in famous Panormou Bay to the west of Skopelos Island.

Linaria, Sykiros Island Tomorrow our way is not long, so we do not need to leave early. Our departure time will be after 8’oclock (immediately after the ferryboat left the port). We plan to sail to Loutra port, to the West of Skopelos Island.

Panormou Bay, Skopelos Island, Greece June 8, 2018 Friday We dropped anchors opposite the house where Linaria-Panormou (39°06’.401N 023°39’.605E) Michael Carroll, the author of “Gates of the Wind” (46 nm) lived in and tied the boats to rocks with long ropes at the west side of the small bay. An anchor

8

should be dropped at a depth of 12-15 meters, I see some boats weighing anchor at dusk. They away from the house. Sea bottom is sandy, water want to take a swimming break before gathering is clear and warm. at 14:30. While some of us went to the shore of the large bay by dinghies and took a public bus to the center (Skopelos), others preferred to stay at boats and enjoy the sea.

DADDrally Aegean 2018 boats are leaving Panormou We gathered at the meeting area at 2.30 pm. We hoisted our mainsails and started to cruise to Volos Harbor in a single row. We will be welcome

in Volos at 3 pm.

Panormou Bay, Skopelos Island, Greece DADDrally Aegean 2018 boats, proceeding to Volos On Sunday, we have 44 nm to go to Volos. All boats will meet in front of Ak Angisti where is 3 The optimists welcome us outside the port at 3 nm away from Volos Port and will enter the Port pm and greeted each boat. in a single row. We decided to leave Panormou at 7:00 in the morning.

June 10, 2018 Sunday Panormou-Volos (39°21’.467N 022°56’.936E)

(44 nm)

9

Optimists welcome DADDrally Aegean 2018 boats S/Y Turquoise at Volos Port

We have contacted our DADDfriend Ms Berna There were also port police among those who met from VHF channel 72. Mr Spiros from the IOVATh Turquoise that was the first moored boat as a Yacht Club and other staffs were waiting for us to Commodore boat. The police asked my boat help mooring. documents and told me to take the documents of all boats to port authority building as soon as they moor in order to do check in processes and stamp transit logs. When all boats berthed, I collected all documents and went to the office with 3 captains. However, despite the fact that the rally group had already made the entrance to Greece, very detailed investigations were made in the documents of each boat, surprisingly. In particular, they wanted to see Greek Clauses (Greek Compulsary Third Party Liability Endorsement) in the insurance Approaching to Volos city quay policy of the boat. Because some policies are We moored to the quay where is in front of Turkish, I persuade them to accept my translation restaurants and cafes. The depths are good, but this time. They accepted my translation but full of vaults of domestic small boats. We've been wanted to see 3 figures (€ 500.000 for warned many times to drop anchor 50 m away injury/death, € 150.000 for material demage to from the quay in order to avoid problems. The third parties for collision and € 150.000 for sea quay is quite long, but most of the places are full, pollution). Additional insurance was requested in so we moored to the empty places with the help case of failure. The port tax is charged at the same of our Greek friends. place and calculated for each calendar day. It costed € 13 for Turquoise for 3 days. Taking into account the complexity of the port-led organization, I would like to emphasize the importance of taking care of all the documents of captains themselves at the port authority in Volos in the following years and having the Greek Clouses of insurance policies in English.

10

Volos City Quay Tsipouradiko Alati, Volos In fact, when we entered Volos Port, DADDrally Aegean 2018 has ended and DADDrally Black Sea 2018 (3 Countries, 1 Story) “On the Trail of the Argonauts and Their Quest of the Golden Fleece” has started. The Greek authorities know that we came here to start the DADDrally Black Sea 2018 (3 Countries, 1 Story).

On Friday, June 11, the fuel tanker arrived at 07:30 and after filling our fuel tanks, we went to the sympathetic town hall at 9:30 am for the DADDrally Aegean 2018 in Volos, Greece official welcome ceremony. The official welcoming ceremony will be held in the City Hall on June 11th. Mr Spiros recommended us Tsipouradiko Elati for tonight's dinner. It is to the east of Volos, next to the church of Agiou Konstantinou. There are about 500 restaurants in Volos called Tsipouradiko. When you order a drink, appetizers and meals are served free of charge. When you order a tsipouro (5 cc tiny bottle of raki-like drink) in Alati, two plates of delicious food (grilled fish, octopus, appetizers etc) accompanies it and costs almost €5. We satisfied a lot with the dinner. Volos Town Hall The interest of printed and visual media with the rally is intense. As soon as I entered the meeting hall I gave my first television interview. Berna, who has been living in Greece for 15 years, is our assistant and interpreter at every stage. Because of my illness, my voice is still low, and from this

11

point of view, it is my great fortune that Ms Berna is with me here as an interpreter. They first made a presentation on the Legend of Jason, Argonauts and the Argo in the meeting hall. Argo was made using various kind of trees (beech, oak, pine, fir) of Mount Pelion, but fruit trees (like chestnut) were not used at construction. According to Homeros, the ship was built in 3 months and was in seas for a thousand years. The mythical Argo was reconstructed during 2004-07. The reproduction of the Argo hauled out onto Welcome ceremony of DADDrally Blacksea 2018 (3 land for maintenance, so we won't be able to see Countries, 1 Story) the ship this year. We hope to see her next year. After the ceremony, I gave an interview to TV channels. The crucial point of the questions was political. They asked me how and why do we realise this rally, especially in this environment where the tension between the two countries is very high. My answer about the friendships of people of two neighbouring countries was quite appreciated.

Presentation on the legend of Iason and the Argo Ms Erifili Vardaki, President of Volos Sailing Club, in his welcome speech, conveyed the wish for this rally to be lasting, which will contribute to Turkish-Greek friendship. I briefly introduced our association and gave a talk about the purpose of the rally. After the welcoming ceremony in a friendly environment, we gave each other some gifts. Tv interwievs, Volos

After the ceremony, there is a visit to Pelion Mountain where Iason and Hercules lived, in our program. In Greek mithology, Pelion Mountain had been chosen by the twelve gods of Olympus as a summer residence. We will especially visit the former Ottoman village of Makrinitsa which is called as “Pelion Mountain Balcony”. The Municipality of Volos has allocated a bus to us for this trip. Our guides are Berna and Spiros.

12

Pelion Mountain, Volos Makrinitsa, Volos Makrinitsa is a very charming and touristic village We were the guest of honor at the ceremony with its fountains that flow from the mountains, which was prepared for being the first day of the tourist shops, slate roofed houses, restored Maritime Week in the evening. The speakers and boutique hotels with Ottoman architecture. We the Archbishop of the Region talked about us, and rested in a café on the square where St. John's at the end of the ceremony, the archbishop Church was built in 1806, and we sipped our squeezed hands of all of us and wished good coffee and had the Laz pastry (galaktaboureko). cruise.

Makrinitsa, Volos Maritime Week Ceremony in Volos

Maritime Week Ceremony in Volos Makrinitsa, Volos

13

DADDrally Black Sea 2018 (3 Countries, 1 Story) “On the Trail of the Argonauts and Their Quest of the Golden Fleece” will start tomorrow morning at 9 am. As the start of the rally will be broadcast by a television channel, we will have a greeting cruise in the harbor.

14