BOULDERING Guidance on session delivery and supervision FOLLOW CONTENTS

What is bouldering? 1

Section 1 The management and delivery of safe, high quality Bouldering sessions in Indoor facilities 1.1. Safety, hazards, risk assessments, group management 3 1.2. Planning and Delivering Quality Bouldering Sessions 12 1.3. Ethics and etiquette 17

Section 2 The management and delivery of safe, high quality Bouldering sessions outdoors 2.1. Access and Conservation 19 2.2. Safety, hazards, risk Assessments, group Management 20 2.3. Planning and Delivering Quality Bouldering Sessions 27 2.4. Ethics and etiquette 30

Appendix 31

Mountain Training would like to thank the four principle writers of this This document provides guidance for instructors, coaches, supervisors and guidance, Freddie Naish, Nate McMullan, Dave Evans and Katherine assistants engaged in the supervision of bouldering. It can also be used by Schirrmacher and the following individuals for their additional contributions: trainers and assessors of in-house site specific schemes relating to the delivery Bryn Williams, George McEwan, Guy Jarvis, Iain McKenzie, Jane Carney, Libby of safe, high quality, bouldering sessions, both indoors and out, throughout the Peter, Pete Edwards and Simon Patton.

FORWARD UK and Ireland. Thanks also to the following people whose images bring the publication to life: Bryn Williams, Graham Little, Guy Jarvis, Iain McKenzie, Jessie Leong, Karl The document is divided into two sections which cover the separate areas of Midlane, Lindley Educational Trust and Paul Smith. indoor and outdoor bouldering supervision. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Published by Mountain Training, Siabod Cottage, © Mountain Training October 2018. Version 1.0. Capel Curig, Conwy. LL24 0ES All rights reserved. Tel: 01690 720272 Design by Dragon Design: www.dragondesignwales.com Email: [email protected] Website: www.mountain-training.org Mountain Training would like to thank the four principle writers of this guidance, Freddie Naish, Nate McMullan, Dave Evans and Katherine Schirrmacher and the following individuals for their additional contributions: Bryn Williams, George McEwan, Guy Jarvis, Iain McKenzie, Jane Carney, Libby Peter, Pete Edwards and Simon Patton.

Thanks also to the following people whose images bring the publication to life: Bryn Williams, Graham Little, Guy Jarvis, Iain McKenzie, Jessie Leong, Karl Midlane, Lindley Educational Trust and Paul Smith.

What is bouldering?

Bouldering is considered by many to be the purest form of rock climbing.

It distils the sport into very simple terms: above a soft, flat, grassy surface, to unroped climbing focusing entirely on serious highballs above boulder fields, Managing risk movement, allowing people to learn and which should be considered as solo develop their skills, often without the climbs. additional challenges associated with Throughout this guidance the definition Despite the ease and freedom of mind should take place before any significant height and ropes. of outdoor bouldering refers to any bouldering, the vast majority of accidents bouldering session. Attention should be Bouldering can be a fun, sociable and natural rock venue without a and injuries at climbing walls happen paid to any tweaks or strains which occur enjoyable way to engage with climbing pre-prepared matted landing area for while bouldering rather than roped during a session so that appropriate and is one of the most common starting which a separate person is responsible. climbing and, while not usually fatal, can treatment (often rest) can start as soon points for novice climbers. Most indoor The second section of this guidance will be serious. as possible. bouldering is set to a maximum height of deal separately with natural rock Injuries generally occur in the hands, As the supervisor you are responsible for between 3-4.5m and will have a outdoor bouldering venues where a wrists and ankles, with potential for leg, your students’ welfare. If not managed purpose-built safety surface below the supervisor is responsible for a greater arm and back problems caused by carefully, bouldering on natural rock bouldering area (normally 300mm deep). degree of dynamic risk management. awkward landings from greater heights. exposes people to a much more This surface does not eliminate the risk of This is because supervisors of outdoor As bouldering can be quite intensive and significant level of risk than bouldering injury, although it does make landing bouldering need to manage landings explosive, extra care should be taken to on artificial walls, which is why the two more comfortable and often reduces the with bouldering pads, safeguard climbers avoid sporting injuries. Cold muscles and are addressed separately in this severity of injuries. by managing spotting and have a higher soft tissue can be prone to damage so a document. level of group awareness in order to Outdoor bouldering can take a multitude thorough warm up of both body and judge their ability. of forms, from low level, fun problems PAGE 1 PAGE 1.1.1 Hazard Identification Spinning, unpinned holds (causing out of control falls); Firstly, a bouldering supervisor, coach or Sharp or small crimpy holds (which instructor needs to be aware of the types may result in finger injuries); of hazards that may exist in an indoor bouldering environment. Secondly the Finger traps; supervisor needs to have strategies to Fall zones near walls or hard objects manage and minimise the associated such as volumes; risks. Objects left on matting, in pockets or Section 1: Typical hazards might be: wearing a harness; Regular ground fall (which has obvious Blind corners and arêtes (which may physical injury consequences); cause out of control moves); Other users walking under or close to Awkward top outs and difficult your group; descents; Gaps in matting, insufficient depth or High problems bearing in mind coverage (causing potential physical size/age of participants; and injuries); Environmental: noise, cold, heat, Overhanging areas where others can excessive chalk. THE MANAGEMENT AND DELIVERY pass underneath; OF SAFE, HIGH QUALITY BOULDERING SESSIONS IN 1.1.2 Supervisor checks and 1 pre-session preparation specific information; INDOOR FACILITIES You have made an explicit request for Before starting any session as a supervisor written medical details in case any you should ensure that: members of the group have any 1.1: Safety, hazards, risk assessments, group management You have all the necessary paperwork relevant medical conditions or ongoing completed (e.g. consent forms, medical injuries; and There are various risks associated centre/city centre facility on a busy details, emergency contacts, You have assessed, when planning weekend. This is a very dynamic acknowledgement of risk, etc.); your session, which areas of the venue with bouldering which is why environment when you consider all the You know which parts of the wall will be may or may not be suitable for your assessing risk is a core inherent hazards associated with free and whether other sessions will be group. Elements such as blind corners, bouldering itself, as well as the risks responsibility of any supervisor, running at the same time; archways and training areas are often particularly those supervising associated with large numbers of people places to steer clear of with novices to with a full range of experience. As such You understand the experience of the novices. avoid the risk of collisions with other this area forms a fundamental part of group (whether they are beginners, climbers. Equally important will be the Artificial bouldering facilities could be the decision making process relating to intermediates etc.); types, angles and difficulties of anything from a quiet local wall on a how you manage your group. You know the location of toilets, fire problems available in a given area as weekday afternoon, to a national escapes and storage for participants’ well as the ease of descent. belongings plus any other facility 1For the sake of clarity, ‘indoor facilities’ is used in this guidance to denote any artificial purpose-built bouldering facility such as an

PAGE 3 PAGE artificial bouldering facility or an outdoor artificial boulder common in many urban settings. The safety briefing should include the For beginners and groups new to a following points: supervisor it is also worth including: Participants must be wearing An explanation of the level of the appropriate clothing, with empty risks involved; pockets and with jewellery removed or An explicit statement that the made safe; matting does not remove the risk of Housekeeping: the location of toilets, injury; storage facilities and what to do in the A warning not to walk or climb event of an alarm; underneath or close behind other Group management issues such as climbers; requiring the group to remain A warning not to top-out (except together and to ask you if someone where topping out is permitted); needs to leave the group for any reason; A warning that holds may spin or break; Identification of specific How many people can be bouldering hazards such as arêtes and archways at any given time; and and how to deal with them; and It is good practice and useful to know A warning that the descent may often whether anyone has had a recent be the hardest part of the climb and injury or has restricted movement. that participants should not just jump off without first practising climbing down and jumping off safely.

1.1.3 Safety briefing 1.1.4 Equipment Well-fitting specialist climbing shoes will help your participants have much better Prior to starting a session you Helmets are rarely used for personal control when actually boulder- should conduct a safety briefing. personal bouldering but as a ing, however they may cause some supervisor you should actively people to feel less steady when walking around and descending from the wall. It The content and tone of the briefing will consider if they would provide is important to ensure that all partici- vary depending on the group and should extra protection for some novice pants have the same footwear if possible be tailored to suit their needs. Getting and know about how climbing shoes will this part of your briefing correct will help groups. assist their bouldering. you to manage the group throughout the Low level traverses with little safety session. With large groups of young matting below them could be an example From a practical point of view it is good people it should include expected of where these would be desirable. Some to have all other remaining equipment standards of general conduct around the centres have specific guidelines relating required for a session ready before the facility. to use of helmets in bouldering facilities session starts. which a supervisor should adhere to. PAGE 5 PAGE 1.1.5 Supervision standards sometimes possible to separate a novice group from other participants in a Spotting It is important that supervisors marked off area. Spotting is an advanced skill and should remain in control of their group at Ratios usually only be carried out by experienced all times. As with any climbing activity, appropriate climbers or supervisors. In most cases it is supervisor to participant ratios are safer to provide proper instruction on In the event that the behaviour or important for the safe management of a how to fall and land safely. However as a activities of the group could compromise group. In a bouldering context where supervisor you should be able to make a their safety or that of others, you must be participants may have more freedom to judgement about when it may or may not prepared to stop or adapt your session. roam the ratio can be even more be appropriate to provide additional important in aiding with group support or protection through the use of With inexperienced groups and younger management. You should carefully spotting. The purpose of spotting is to climbers it is essential that visual contact consider what your maximum operating reduce the risk of injury, but this cannot is maintained at all times in order to ratio is in relation to different group be guaranteed. Often the primary role of ensure effective supervision. With more types, age, ability levels, type of activity the spotter in an indoor environment is to experienced groups and adult groups you undertaken and desired learning provide reassurance to the climber and to may choose to give them a greater level outcomes. You must be able to provide ensure the landing area is clear of objects of autonomy but this should always be an adequate level of supervision and and other climbers. The key elements of carefully considered and justified. It is control at all times. spotting are as follows: The spotter stands below the climber, effectively, helping them keep their with arms raised or at the ready, centre of gravity over their feet. When on keeping fingers together to avoid steeper, overhanging climbs, the spotter broken fingers. will hold their arms out in a cradling Number of participants there are often many blind spots position. If the climber falls, the spotter climbing at any one time for a supervisor which means they If the climber falls, the spotter does not catch the climber, but redirects the supports the upper and middle back, Good coaching practice when will not be able to see all group climber's fall so that they land safely. helping the climber land on their feet. bouldering means that people will members at all times. You need to manage your group in such a way The spotter’s role is to attempt to spend as much time bouldering as A spotter may also be used to help that you are able to maintain sight guide the climber's fall so that their possible, however this must be accomplish new climbing moves. Often of all climbers off the ground. head and back do not strike the ground balanced with good group much of the energy in learning a new Suitably qualified or experienced directly. management. Having one person move is exerted in simply holding on. If a assistants can provide support If the climber jumps down, the spotter climb at a time means maximum spotter puts even the slightest pressure here. can also help prevent stumbles and group control but poor group on the climber's upper back or upward injuries. experience. If lots of people are pressure on the hips during a move they going to climb at the same time, When spotting a climber on a vertical or will often give the climber the extra relief you need to consider how easy this slab climb, the spotter will typically hold needed to learn the move. Once the is to manage. Traverses, bouldering their arms up with hands in a supporting move is learned, it can usually be in pairs or everyone bouldering on position and if the climber falls, the practised and mastered without the the same feature (e.g. a slab) may be spotter's hands lightly hold the climber's extra help. You should always follow good ways to manage this. You need to hips or lower back, near the climber's safeguarding procedure when giving plan in advance and make the centre of gravity. This allows the spotter physical support in this way. Explain your boundaries clear to the group. to help guide the climber's fall effectively, actions and seek consent. Outdoor artificial boulders can present different challenges as

PAGE 7 PAGE effectively, helping them keep their centre of gravity over their feet. When on steeper, overhanging climbs, the spotter will hold their arms out in a cradling position. If the climber falls, the spotter supports the upper and middle back, helping the climber land on their feet.

A spotter may also be used to help accomplish new climbing moves. Often much of the energy in learning a new move is exerted in simply holding on. If a spotter puts even the slightest pressure on the climber's upper back or upward pressure on the hips during a move they will often give the climber the extra relief needed to learn the move. Once the move is learned, it can usually be practised and mastered without the extra help. You should always follow good safeguarding procedure when giving physical support in this way. Explain your actions and seek consent.

Down climbing: Down climbing should transferred to the wall. Although it is be seen as an essential skill in its own important to check the landing zone is right. It maximises the time on the route, clear before jumping off, climbers should develops movement skills and prepares not twist away from the wall while climbers for times when they might not jumping to avoid rotational forces to the want to go any higher. You should ask and ankles, knees and back. encourage climbers to climb back down As a supervisor you should warn your to the ground as far as is reasonably climbers that from time to time they practical. Your ability to do this will be may slip or fall unexpectedly and that in greatly affected by the area of wall you’ve this situation they should do their best chosen for the group and as such you to follow the same process as for a should carefully consider the descent controlled fall but highlight that this may options when choosing where to take not always be possible. A few pointers your group. Often new climbers will that may help in these situations are to struggle with this as they will fail to bend tuck the chin and keep arms out of the their knees and so it can be helpful to way. coach climbers back down by telling them to crouch down. These techniques for descent should be practised in a controlled and measured Before supervising a group on outdoor way at lower levels before allowing artificial boulders the means of descent climbers to continue further up the wall. should be identified. Peer spotting It is important to take a progressive Jumping off: A down climb will not be approach to this and be aware that, for The risks associated with peer to peer Getting off the wall possible in all situations so it is important some climbers, there will be limits to spotting often outweigh the risks of not to help climbers understand how to jump what they can manage safely. A 4.5m spotting at all, so it is rarely appropriate Getting down safely is one or drop in a controlled manner that drop is not appropriate for many young for novices to spot each other. With more of the most important parts reduces impact on the body and the risk climbers and you should set safe limits experienced groups carefully managed of an introductory of injury. Provided that there is a good for your group. peer spotting at a low level can provide a bouldering session, but is matted surface, climbers should look to gentle introduction to the skill as well as Outdoor artificial boulders rarely have land feet first, vertically, or with their being of benefit for teamwork, peer to often overlooked. full depth matting below them; they centre of gravity slightly behind them, peer observation and shared learning. Any often have other safety surfaces like pea The two options are down bend their knees as they land and, situation that requires ‘real’ spotting gravel, rubber crumb, sand or wood climbing and jumping off, but few depending on the height of the fall, roll should be carried out by you, the chippings and so jumping off becomes new climbers find either option backwards to absorb the impact. Climbers supervisor, and could act as a valuable more risky without additional bouldering easy or instinctive. Both methods should be specifically warned to keep demonstration of how to do it well. mats. Participants should be encouraged need explanation, demonstration their arms up and out of the way of the Participants will need guidance on how to to climb down where possible and you and lots of practice in a carefully fall and not to extend their arms spot their peers once the course/session should check out these descent routes managed setting. backwards. This practice session can be is over. This could be simply to clear the for suitability before allowing any started with a simple mat exercise of landing area, give directions and keep out climbers to use them. increasingly high standing jumps into a of the way. See Mountaineering Scotland’s backward roll, which can then be Outdoor artificial boulders do not usually publication Boulder Safe for further have full depth matting below them. detailed advice. Therefore spotting may be a necessary risk management technique when using

PAGE 9 PAGE such facilities. Peer spotting The risks associated with peer to peer spotting often outweigh the risks of not spotting at all, so it is rarely appropriate for novices to spot each other. With more experienced groups carefully managed peer spotting at a low level can provide a gentle introduction to the skill as well as being of benefit for teamwork, peer to peer observation and shared learning. Any situation that requires ‘real’ spotting should be carried out by you, the supervisor, and could act as a valuable demonstration of how to do it well. Participants will need guidance on how to spot their peers once the course/session is over. This could be simply to clear the landing area, give directions and keep out of the way. See Mountaineering Scotland’s Outdoor artificial boulders do not usually publication for further have full depth matting below them. detailed advice. Therefore spotting may be a necessary risk management technique when using such facilities.

1.1.6 Overuse injuries and Avoid repetitive training – mix up the prevention styles of problems used and the angle 1.2 Planning and Information on FUNdamentals courses of the wall; delivering quality bouldering delivered by: Overuse injuries in intense Beware dynamic moves – for example sessions British Mountaineering Council bouldering are not uncommon. dropping onto holds or swinging (www.thebmc.co.uk/fundamentals) These issues are less likely to between holds; Mountaineering Scotland affect beginners who will more Ensure that people build up to using The content of this section is a (www.mountaineering.scot/activities/ likely be bouldering on big holds small holds over an extended period of brief overview of the issues to be indoor-climbing/skills-and-coaching/ and easy angled walls. However, time. Encourage different ways to considered in the process of coaching-workshops/fundamentals) hold holds: open hand, half crimp as Mountaineering Ireland for those people who boulder well as full crimp positions; planning high quality bouldering regularly, some issues may occur sessions. (http://www.mountaineering.ie/Training Be aware of the dangers of using AndSafety/LeadershipTrainingAnd and an awareness of common fingerboards and campus boards for AssessmentSchemes/FUNdamentals/ issues and basic injury prevention Planning is covered in more detail in the default.aspx) under 18s. See: FUNdamentals of Climbing 1, 2, and 3 is expected of you as a www.thebmc.co.uk/campus-boards- coach education workshops delivered by Information on coaching qualifications: guidance-on-use; supervisor. the mountaineering councils, Mountain Mountain Training Most overuse injuries happen to the During growth spurts young people Training’s Foundation and Development www.mountain-training.org/climbing/ fingers, elbows and shoulders. It is are especially prone to injuries, Coach qualifications and the Level 1 awards/coaching-scheme particularly in the fingers. If you’re Climbing Coach delivered by Mountain important that you promote a culture Mountain Training Board Ireland working with climbers in youth Training Board Ireland. within your groups that encourages http://www.mountaineering.ie/Training academies or clubs it may be an idea communication if something is hurting. The National Indoor Bouldering AndSafety/LeadershipTrainingAnd to regularly measure their height to This is especially important for the fingers Achievement Scheme (NIBAS) provides a AssessmentSchemes/ClimbingCoaching keep track of when they may be going as tendons and pulleys are often affected. five level coaching structure designed for Award through growth spurts and adapt your If pain is reported, especially from young young people (www.nicas.co.uk). climbers, they should be made to either sessions accordingly. change activity or stop. Taping, icing or resting (or all of these) may be necessary. If supervisors are unsure they should suggest a visit to a physiotherapist. Injury prevention top tips: Warm up properly – 20 mins+ depending on the group and environmental conditions; Always seek out information of any pre-existing injuries during the briefing at the beginning of a session; Ensure sessions include lots of technique work. Bouldering ‘better’ reduces the strain on the upper body. Technique work is a good use of time and avoids spending significant parts of the session doing strenuous bouldering,

PAGE 11 PAGE physical conditioning and training;

1.2.1 Session plans

The key to a good plan is to write it down! Getting into the habit of writing a session plan will greatly affect the success of a session. A good plan is a useable document that is just one or two pages long. Good session plans can be stored at a wall and reused by supervisors easily enough. Session plans should include the following elements:

Learning outcomes. These outcomes or goals for the session should be concise, clear and achievable. With well-established outcomes it should be possible at the end of the session for the group to clearly show/demonstrate/explain whether they achieved the outcomes or not.

Warm up. The warm up should include a pulse raiser, mobility exercises and easy bouldering. Really good warm ups will also help towards meeting the learning outcomes. Activity. This should then be sub-divided into three to four 1.2.2 Warming up It is widely accepted that a warm-up components. Some activities may be off should have three broad sections to it: the wall and some on the wall but all of All session plans should include timings Given the often intense and them should link and progress from one and details of any equipment needed for A general warm up or pulse raiser (can to the other. each element. When writing a plan for athletic nature of bouldering it is be used as an ice-breaker in the form each session, consider the following: important that an effective warm of a group game); Warm down. This may be in the form up is completed to reduce the risk of easy bouldering, stretches or games. The overall time available; Some movement preparation or of sports injuries as well as to mobilisation (an ideal opportunity to Summary. Time should always be The number of climbers in the group; assess and work on movement allowed at the end of a session to pull improve performance. patterns); and the session together. It’s a chance to The ability/ experience of the climbers; In a group context the warm up can also run through what’s been done, gauge How you will allow for differences of A more specific warm up with easy be used to assess the general athletic the group’s understanding, encourage abilities within a group; climbing or bouldering (an ideal self-reflection, explain what will happen ability of the group as well as their opportunity to introduce and work on in following sessions and allow for How you will manage the group so response to instruction and to identify climbing or bouldering techniques questions. that everyone is engaged as much as any members of a group who may need even at beginner level). possible; additional supervision. Review. You should reflect on the sessions and assess whether you have What you will do if parts of the wall This process should be considered as a achieved the desired outcomes of the are not available at the last minute; warm up for both body and mind. The session and describe what you might and protection of the body from injury is as do differently the next time. The resources you will have available. much about the heart rate as it is about precision and coordination. PAGE 13 PAGE

Given the often intense and athletic nature of bouldering it is important that an effective warm up is completed to reduce the risk of sports injuries as well as to improve performance.

In a group context the warm up can also be used to assess the general athletic ability of the group as well as their response to instruction and to identify any members of a group who may need additional supervision.

This process should be considered as a warm up for both body and mind. The protection of the body from injury is as much about the heart rate as it is about precision and coordination.

1.2.3 Activity Games Games can provide great Technique drills However, climbers of different abilities The bulk of the bouldering session Drills are really useful for ensuring that stimulation and challenge for will require different input. Novices will can include a range of activities, key techniques are practised a number of groups. Most activities can be likely require more direction than times, on both sides of the body and at which should follow a progressive ‘gamified’ if it is appropriate. someone with more experience. pattern in terms of either skill different speeds (repeat slowly, repeat You should bear this concept in mind The best games stimulate fast). Drills are a form of fixed practice and development or difficulty. when a participant struggles; instead of repeated attempts at problem can be blocked (where the same skill is providing direction on how to complete a solving whilst also observing practised again and again) or random Moving climbers on too quickly in either boulder problem, for example, you should competitors’ strategies. When (where multiple skills are practised in a area can lead to a loss of motivation or first seek to coach at the appropriate level planning a session it may be hard random order). Other forms of practice even injury so choosing appropriate to stimulate development of this skill by to see where a warm up stops and include variable practice (repeating a skill exercises, tasks and challenges is key. the participant themselves. the ‘activity’ begins. Games can be in a variety of situations) and distributed Getting this correct will also help keep a really useful, but only if they are practice (where attempts at the skill are group engaged and help with behaviour Group management clearly meeting the learning interspersed with breaks for rest and management. Quality sessions will ensure that all outcomes set out in the session mental consideration). Drills and climbers get lots of time bouldering. plan. As is stressed in the structured practice are covered in more Sessions should be organised in such a Key topics FUNdamentals courses, keeping detail on Mountain Training’s Fundamental movement skills such as way that allows all participants to be exercises fun and engaging is the Foundation/Development Coach training balance, use of centre of gravity and active at the same time – either all key to successful sessions. or Mountain Training Board Ireland’s Level footwork are critical. These form the bouldering together or in pairs. If only 1 Climbing Coach training. basis of good bouldering movement and one participant is climbing at a time you Climbing Games by Paul Smith underpin the execution of accurate will have maximum control over the may be a useful resource and you technique. These skills require specific Self-directed bouldering time activity, but this runs the risk of the group can research other climbing Once climbers have been introduced to time and constant practice to develop getting bored and losing interest, which games on the internet, but be the basics it is important to provide them well. The overarching concepts you should can result in group management careful to assess them for quality with a feeling of autonomy, even whilst be communicating are ‘economy of problems. and safety. they’re still under strict supervision. This movement’ and ‘efficiency’. The main can be as simple as letting them choose message is that by using the lower half of which climb to attempt or, depending on the body climbers can save energy in their the group, allowing them to break off into arms. Off the wall exercises smaller groups and climb around the This may happen on the mats, or centre or venue. If this helps to meet the As people progress, more specific standing on the ground, possibly using learning objectives it can be a very techniques such as twisting on steep the wall for balance. The idea is to take a important part of the session. ground, laybacks, arêtes, using heels and learning outcome such as improving dynamic movement may be brought in footwork and recreate it in an achievable Personal independence and decision over time, all while reinforcing the basic way off the wall. There are various floor making principles of balance and footwork. exercises that can enhance bouldering Being able to make decisions is a vital part skills including those that develop agility, of all bouldering and should not be balance and coordination which form the overlooked; considering this when bedrock of all good movement skills. introducing and developing others is There are many films you can find on the crucial. Facilitating somebody else’s ability internet for inspiration including those to work out a boulder problem is much of the German Bouldering Team. more difficult and time consuming than simply telling them how to do it.

PAGE 15 PAGE Technique drills Drills are really useful for ensuring that key techniques are practised a number of times, on both sides of the body and at different speeds (repeat slowly, repeat fast). Drills are a form of fixed practice and can be blocked (where the same skill is practised again and again) or random (where multiple skills are practised in a random order). Other forms of practice include variable practice (repeating a skill in a variety of situations) and distributed practice (where attempts at the skill are interspersed with breaks for rest and mental consideration). Drills and structured practice are covered in more detail on Mountain Training’s Foundation/Development Coach training or Mountain Training Board Ireland’s Level 1 Climbing Coach training.

Self-directed bouldering time Once climbers have been introduced to the basics it is important to provide them with a feeling of autonomy, even whilst they’re still under strict supervision. This can be as simple as letting them choose which climb to attempt or, depending on the group, allowing them to break off into smaller groups and climb around the centre or venue. If this helps to meet the learning objectives it can be a very important part of the session.

Personal independence and decision making Being able to make decisions is a vital part of all bouldering and should not be overlooked; considering this when introducing and developing others is crucial. Facilitating somebody else’s ability to work out a boulder problem is much more difficult and time consuming than simply telling them how to do it.

1.3. Ethics and etiquette working out a problem. Top level boulderers ‘fail’ almost all the time! 1.3.2 Setter’s rules There may also be local rules, such as 1.3.1 Grading whether topping out is acceptable or not, Bouldering Grades .com Depending on the venue there that need to be adhered to. Font British Most bouldering centres and Bouldering Tech may be guidelines with regards to V Grade Grade Grade 1.3.3 Chalk venues will offer a grading system how the problems are designed to VB 3 4a to help climbers identify V0- 3+ 4b be climbed. Different venues will have

appropriate challenges. V0 4 4c Supervisors should be aware of these different rules on the use of V0+ 4+ 5a guidelines and communicate them to chalk. This can vary from centre to centre and their participants. These may include V1 5 5b even within a centre from setter to setter things like sit-starts, standing starts, They may range from ‘anything goes’ to and as a result, should be considered as a V2 5+ 5c ‘liquid chalk only’ and these also need to 6A matching on the top hold, using (or not) rough indication of difficulty rather than V3 6A+ volumes, arêtes, smears and screw-ons. be relayed to the group under 6B 6a definitive. The style of the problem will V4 6B+ supervision. often have a greater impact on the 6C V5 6C+ 6b participants’ enjoyment and ability to V6 7A climb it than the grade might suggest and V7 7A+ you should use your own judgement to 7B 6c help climbers select a suitable problem. V8 7B+ The participant’s ability and the aspects of V9 7C 1.3.4 Etiquette movement you may be focussing on V10 7C+ should be the most important factors V11 8A 7a Bouldering has some generally affecting your decision making. V12 8A+ accepted practices that are worth V13 8B When introducing novices to the sport, sharing with new participants, calibrating the difficulty of the problem to V14 8B+ such as: the participants’ abilities is essential. As a V15 8C © Rockfax Ltd. 2002, 2008, 2014. supervisor you should be prepared to Take turns on problems - once you’ve create your own problems for had a go, step away from the wall to participants; using coloured stick chalk or allow others to have a go; tape to mark holds can sometimes be useful here, but should be removed Ask a climber if they would like afterwards. With the centre advice/guidance/beta before giving it management’s consent you could even set (remember the guidance above about your own problems with some holds and problem solving); an Allen key. Do not stand/sit/lie under climbs;

Novices need early success and should Brush holds before and after succeed on most problems to encourage bouldering; and motivation. However, if you make it too Ask before spotting. easy they will soon become bored. As your participants progress they will become more experienced and resilient, allowing them to tolerate more failure and find success in learning from the process of PAGE 17 PAGE 2.1. Access and conservation Mountaineering Scotland Bouldering Code of Conduct – download here: www.mountaineering.scot/activities/ As a supervisor you should be aware of outdoor-climbing/style-and-grading access arrangements and laws regarding the sites you wish to visit; the The BMC manages a regional access mountaineering councils provide good database which can be viewed online, sources of information. In order to or via an iPhone or Android app. The maintain this access it is important to most up to date access information for educate participants about the Country all climbing and bouldering venues in Code, littering, noise pollution etc. There England and Wales is provided, so that is a specific code of conduct with regards climbers and boulderers have to bouldering outside which promotes definitive information to inform their respecting the rock (not tick marking venue choices. boulder problems excessively with chalk, https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc- not climbing on friable rock after rain, no regional-access-database chipping, no use of resin) and respecting other people who also want to try the For Irish access issues contact: boulder problems. [email protected] Section 2:

2.2. Safety, hazards, risk assessments, group management

As with indoor bouldering, THE MANAGEMENT AND DELIVERY OF providing clear briefings at the start of the day can set the tone SAFE, HIGH QUALITY BOULDERING for how the rest of your session SESSIONS OUTDOORS. will proceed.

In addition to the usual points detailed The difference in approach make the level of care much greater. It is below, setting out clear boundaries for where group members should and should required for decision making with fair to say that supervising outdoor bouldering sessions is probably the most not go is required. This is particularly participants in the outdoors serious aspect of the work of any relevant when bouldering in an area that should never be underestimated. supervisor, and as such, you must be has high boulders or poor landings that prepared to have a flexible plan for any the group should not access. The ever-changing nature of the session that can be easily altered.

PAGE 19 PAGE environment and needs of participants 2.2.2 Supervisor checks and You are aware of participants’ pre-session preparation relevant medical conditions or ongoing injuries; As with indoor sessions there are You have looked at the weather a series of checks necessary forecast and relevant access informa before bouldering outdoors with tion to help establish the correct a group. venue for the day;

Before starting any session as a You have considered all the possible supervisor you should ensure that: outdoor locations (see point 2.2.4) that meet the needs of the group; You have all the necessary administra and tion completed; You have established communication You understand the experience of the systems with your employer/deployer group (whether they are beginners, (be aware of mobile coverage), intermediates etc.); casualty evacuation plans and transport arrangements.

2.2.1 Hazard identification greater height of problems and high 2.2.3 Selection of appropriate are not local. The use of problems ball top outs venues and problems appropriate to group ability and Bouldering outdoors carries confidence is essential to a successful additional elements of risk tricky descents The height of problems versus the session. compared to bouldering on poor weather and slippery conditions height of hard moves as well as You should consider what height is artificial walls and as a supervisor difficulty in warming up the nature of the landings, are all appropriate for particular groups when you need to be aware of these issues to bear in mind when bouldering. The height limit in a risks and how to manage them. snappy holds choosing appropriate locations. purpose-built facility with integral crash matting is a maximum top out height of These include: Appropriate risk assessments should be Many good group bouldering venues are 4.5m. With this as a reference point, it is carried out to assess the suitability of not described in guidebooks, with good reasonable to infer that any hard moves bad landings and uneven or boggy the venue for a specific group and lower standard problems not always above bouldering pads outdoors should ground identify any location specific hazards. listed. Site-specific knowledge is be low down and the relative level of Ongoing dynamic risk assessments difficulty should decrease as height sloping top outs invaluable in choosing an appropriate should also be made with regard to the venue so it may be useful to ask other increases. A high degree of judgement is loose rocks party and conditions at the time. supervisors about possible venues if you required here. PAGE 21 PAGE 2.2.4 Safety briefing

A thorough briefing is critical when delivering a bouldering session outside. The same injury risks exist outdoors as indoors, however, because of the uneven ground, varying height of each problem and lack of flat matting, you must set firm boundaries with your participants. A briefing should include the following points:

Participants must be wearing appropri ate clothing, with empty pockets and any jewellery removed or made safe; Housekeeping: where participants should leave their belongings and the location of toilets/where to go if nature calls and how to protect the environ ment; Group management issues such as requiring the group to remain together, and to ask you if someone needs to leave the group for any reason; How many people can be bouldering at any given time; It is good practice and useful to know whether anyone has had a recent injury For beginners and groups new to a or has restricted movement; supervisor it is also worth including: 2.2.5 Equipment Identification of specific hazards such able to stack pads as well as laying them An explanation of the seriousness of as jagged boulders under pads, other out flat in order to protect participants’ the risks involved; In the case of outdoor bouldering ankles. A few pieces of old carpet or boulders that may be in the way and an where falls can occur (as opposed acknowledgement that each boulder An explicit statement that the pads do towels may also be useful to dry off and will present its own risks; not remove the risk of injury; to low level traversing and clean shoes before climbing. ‘weaseling’ where good A warning that the descent may often A warning not to walk or climb supervision and occasional Consideration should be given to be the hardest part of the climb and underneath or closely behind other spotting may suffice) it is highly whether participants should wear that the supervisor will specify where climbers; helmets, bearing in mind the age and participants should descend; there recommended to have a number experience of the group. If participants The importance of cleaning shoes may be different strategies to manage of bouldering pads in order to are used to uncontrolled descents from each boulder; and before climbing with regards to indoor boulder problems, they must be protecting the rock from erosion and protect landings. made aware that the same attitude That people should ensure all the pads maximising the contact surface Bouldering pads can never completely cannot be taken outside. It would are arranged properly before they set between shoe and rock. off on a boulder problem. remove the risk of injury, however they normally be best practice for supervised PAGE 23 PAGE can significantly reduce it. You should be groups to wear helmets. 2.2.6 Supervision standards Peer spotting and the teaching of spotting in outdoor climbing Ratios Spotting forms a far more integral part Constant supervision is necessary with of risk management in outdoor novice groups to ensure that they are bouldering than indoors, particularly as behaving appropriately. It is not possible climbers progress through the sport. At to give specific guidelines on supervisor an introductory level, you should to participant ratios as this depends on generally avoid any problems that are many factors such as the age and too high or with awkward landings as the experience of the group, the experience of risks associated with novices peer the supervisor, the nature of the venue spotting often outweigh the risks of not and activities to be undertaken, spotting at all. As participants progress environmental conditions and other in outdoor bouldering it is essential to assistance to hand. Considering all the develop their ability to assess and issues discussed previously, it would manage this risk. Developing this generally be considered that supervisor to understanding in an appropriate and participant ratios would be lower in an incremental way is key, as is never outdoor context. exposing people in your care to unnecessary or inappropriate risk. The Topping out vs jumping off potential for serious injury in poorly Topping out is an important part of managed outdoor bouldering is high. The bouldering, but the difficulty of any responsibility lies with you, the Bouldering pad placement uneven and managing the hazards awkward moves at a dangerous height supervisor, as there is a significantly Unlike bouldering indoors it is not requires more than simply laying pads has to be weighed against the ability of enhanced duty of care in this context. possible to cover the entire fall zone and down flat. It may be that the landing area the participants. Depending on the height additional run-off areas with mats when can be levelled out by placing bags or of a boulder, it may be preferable to place The focus for spotting should be on the bouldering outdoors. Instead, mats must other objects under the bouldering mats. a couple of bouldering mats under a protection of the back, neck and head be carefully placed in order to achieve If this technique is used it is important problem and get the group to aim for a and helping someone to land on their maximum safety for the climbers. Factors that no sharp objects are placed under certain hold, or touch the top of the feet. Catching another person is such as the expected direction of a fall, the pad that might pierce through the boulder and then jump off with care. This impossible and attempting to do so will the location of the crux moves and pad. You should also consider whether can make certain problems usable with likely end in injury to both parties. The hazards like boulders or rocks will all mats need to be placed against objects participants which would otherwise be nature of spotting also changes affect where pads should be placed. There such as tree trunks and other boulders to too risky at height or difficult to descend. significantly as the climber gains height, should not be any gaps between pads in reduce the risks associated with a climber with problems closer to the ground places where it is anticipated the falling or stumbling backwards into them. being much easier to spot well than climber's feet will land. Small spot pads Falling off and landing higher ones. When a climber is can be used to sit over gaps in pads to Spotting poor landings As problems increase in height, comfortably within arms’ reach it is easy reduce the risk of a climber's foot going Where the landing is poor, spotting may falling has to be more controlled to keep their heads up, usually by through the gap. Spotters can also be be essential and will need to be and as the supervisor you must pushing on the shoulders, whereas when used to move pads whilst a climb is in performed by an appropriately make the participants aware of a climber is even slightly beyond reach, progress to ensure the best possible experienced and competent person. this. Being defensive, looking being dynamic and attentive is crucial. placement throughout the climb. Spotters need to be aware of crux moves, around, picking a landing spot and This takes a great deal of skill and the expected direction of fall and the jumping off carefully is always practice. location of any hazards. Spotters must preferable to falling mid move. An Poor landings also be aware of their own immediate uncontrolled fall will always end in An awareness of both the climber’s and In this context a poor landing is anything surroundings in terms of trip hazards and a more awkward landing than a spotter’s ability level is critical in the safe where the ground below a problem is uneven footings for their own protection. controlled one. management of more advanced

PAGE 25 PAGE bouldering sessions. If the supervisor is in any doubt, they should take over the spotting themselves. 2.3.1 Planning sessions

It is likely that when supervising outdoors you will have much more time to run your bouldering session than indoors.

There are also more things to do like travelling to the crag, walking in and moving between boulders, which all take time and should be factored into your session plan, along with the following: Learning outcomes Warm up Activity Warm down Summary Review

2.2.7 Overuse injuries and In an outdoor environment, you should 2.3.2 Warming up in a more holistic way. The game of prevention hopefully have a) more space to work playing some kind of follow my leader with, and b) a much larger area of The outdoor environment lends around a boulder field can be great fun See section 1.1.6. appropriate terrain in which to teach itself to a much more interactive for both kids and adults alike. This people than when supervising indoors. requires a much greater level of dynamic The average indoor climbing centre has approach to warming up than a risk management and group awareness 2.3 Planning and delivering relatively little climbing surface which is climbing wall. than with any indoor climbing session. quality bouldering sessions less than vertical and even less that is a Low level traverses can provide excellent true slab. At most outdoor bouldering While much of the basic warm up process group challenges where relatively areas there should be plenty of terrain can remain the same, with many difficult moves can be attempted just See also the start of section 1.2 for available for “play” on friction based slabs bouldering areas there are jumbles of inches from the ground – this needs to information on various training where participants can be directed to boulders to balance and jump around on, be well managed as the tendency is for safely learn about footwork, centre of options which cover this topic in allowing many of the fundamental the climbers to gain height without clear mass, weight transfer and economy of movement skills to be slowly developed direction.

PAGE 27 PAGE more detail. movement.

2.4. Ethics and etiquette to climb the same grades outside as they do inside, at least initially. Prepare your 2.4.1 Grading group for this likely occurrence. If climbers are used to bouldering Most outdoor venues in the UK use indoors they may need to adjust either the Font grading system or the V grading system and it is useful to explain their expectations and these systems to novice climbers. Some comparison of grades when guidebooks also make reference to the climbing outside. ‘British’ grade of particular moves which may add to further confusion. If your It’s common for indoor climbers to group is also doing routes, bouldering struggle when they first go outside. This is may be a useful opportunity to practise partly because of the lack of obvious what a British 5b move is like close to the handholds and footholds (until they start ground first, before attempting this at to understand friction and balance) and height. secondly because they often won’t be able

2.4.2 Chalk

Footholds are not as easily visible outdoors as they are indoors which is why it is common practice to tick mark them with 2.3.3 Activity chalk. participants and is a good way of There is no problem doing this, as long as If footwork and particularly friction are delivering an effective session. the tick marks are removed with a soft learning outcomes of your session, it’s brush before leaving the boulder. important to tailor the warm up and It is worth being aware of the skills and initial boulder problems (which may just techniques that are harder and easier to 2.4.3 Etiquette be small sloping bits of rock and not teach on artificial walls compared to ‘official’ boulder problems) accordingly. outdoors. Friction-based footwork, Briefing groups about standard You can then progress the activity until movement on slabs and jamming are bouldering etiquette is similar to the participants are doing longer boulder obvious things that are not easily taught that indoors. problems relying on friction. Advance indoors. Bouldering can be used to start damaging the rock and not hogging knowledge of the bouldering areas and a session by focusing on these It is also important to remind your particular problems when other climbers available problems will enable you to techniques close to the ground before participants about the issues of excessive are around. Participants should also create an appropriate circuit for your doing some routes later in the day. chalking, brushing it off after climbing, adhere to the Country Code. PAGE 29 PAGE Appendix

GLOSSARY OF BOULDERING TERMS

http://threerockbooks.com/index.php/bouldering-terms/ USEFUL RESOURCES

Rock Climbing by Libby Peter New Rock Climbers – a BMC publication BMCtv - Bouldering Skills channel BMC Regional Access Database Climb Scotland Mountaineering Scotland – climbing information and advice

PAGE 31 PAGE Mountaineering Ireland – climbing information and advice