Hard Snow Or Alpine Ice Technical Travel
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Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
2020 Antarctica Trekking Gear List | Ice Axe Expeditions
2020 TREKKING GEAR LIST ANTARCTICA ADVENTURE & SKI CRUISE This list will allow for a participant to access trekking terrain. We do not provide gear rentals and suggest you contact your local gear shop should you need to rent any equipment. Should you choose not to bring the required equipment we cannot guarantee participation in trekking activities. TREKKING GEAR Snowshoes - Tubbs Wilderness Series Snowshoe - MSR Lightning Explore - Atlas 10 Series Snowshoe Waterproof boots. Your boots will need to be waterproof and high enough to keep the snow out. You may consider a combination of snowboots with gaitors as an option as well. (The rubber boots provided on the boat are very flimsy and will not be great for snowshoeing). - Baffin Evolution Boot – Men’s - Salomon Toundra Mid WP Winter Boot – Women’s - Sorel Cumberland Boot – Women’s Poles - Black Diamond Pure Distance Carbon FLZ Trekking Poles (carbon version) - Black Diamond Distance FLZ Trekking Pole (aluminum version) - Black Diamond Whippet Self Arrest Pole (hybrid ski pole & ice axe) Ice Axe – 50cm+, light alloy shaft and steel pick are recommended. - Black Diamond Raven Pro (lightweight glacier & snow axe) - Petzl Glacier Ice Axe (lightweight glacier & snow axe) Ice Axe Tip & Spike Protector (important for Zodiac loading) - Black Diamond Pick and Spike Protectors - Petzl Pick & Spike Protectors Light Ski Mountaineering Harness - Black Diamond Couloir Harness (minimal ski harness) - Black Diamond Alpine Bod Harness (very basic alpine harness) Screw-gate Locking Carabiner - 1x (pear-shaped is preferred). - Black Diamond Nitron Screw Gate Locking Carabiner - Petzl Spirit 3D Screw Gate Locking Carabiner Standard Carabiner – 1x (non locking) - Black Diamond Hotwire Carabiner (good all around carabiner) - Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner (small, superlight) Ski Pack (25 to 35 liter with a strap system to carry skis. -
Canyoning Guiding Principles
ANU Mountaineering Club Canyoning Guiding Principles These Guiding Principles have been developed by experienced members of the ANU Mountaineering club, and have been approved by the ANU Mountaineering Club Executive. All ANU Mountaineering Club trip leaders will be expected to adhere to these principles. Departures from these principles will need to be approved by the Canyoning Officer. Activity Description What activities are involved: Canyoning involves scrambling, roped abseiling, walking, swimming and jumping. Canyoning can be conducted in dry canyons, wet canyons, on marked and unmarked trails. The types of skills needed: Canyoning skills include navigation, abseiling, building anchors, jumping, sliding and swimming. Areas that the ANUMC frequents: The ANUMC generally Canyon in the Blue Mountains, Bungonia National Park and the Namadgi National Park. Role of the Canyoning officer: The role of the Canyoning officer is to review trips according to the following set of safety standards. Trips will also be reviewed by the Trip Convenor. Trip leaders will be requested to ensure that trips follow these guidelines before being approved by the Activity Officer. Planning to submit a trip The following information should be consulted when planning to submit a trip: • Appropriate maps, guide books and websites including o OzUltimate.com o alternatezone.com o Canyons Near Sydney (several editions are available at the club gearstore) • Parks and road closures • Weather forecasts • Flood and storm warnings • Fire warnings • Local knowledge from leaders and other ANUMC members Trip description Trip descriptions will cover the following information: • Type and nature of the activity • Number of participants on trip – including number of beginner and intermediate participants • Skills, abilities and fitness required by participants. -
For the Reh~ of the Day
for the reh~ of the day. Setting o~tt at three A.M. on May 30, they evacuated Camp II and dcsccndcd to Camp I at seven A.M. and to Base Camp at ~cn A.M. Camp I was evacuated on May 3 I and Base Camp on June I WC got 10 La&en on J~tnc 2. We ~tsetl no fixed ropes. WC had 1‘0~11.8tnm ropes only (two for cad1 party) and so the ascent was semi-alpine-style. Our route was the same as that of the previous parIies. S’i/t/o/c/~l/ Attrnrpt. Our expedition wa\ composed of Sen Hiraiami, Atau\hi Koyama. Ryouke Wakuuwa and I as lea&r. On May 8. we reached only 3X00 meter\ aticl had to turn bath beca~i~ of bad weather and a tight schedule. We established Baw Camp at Yabuk at 3978 meter< on May 3. Advance Base at 4570 meters on May 5 and after closing the Zctnu Glacter. Camp I at 4600 meter\ on the Siniolchu Glacier on May 7. This wa\ really a reconnaissance for 1995. M,zG\~o NOV. M.D., 7i,lroX~r U/tr~~/.\it\, SC/too/ c~fMdic,ir7c, h/m Ktrhu, Sr~tl7. An Indian Army expedition led by Colonel H.S. Chaukan, former head of the Hitnalaynn Mountaineering Institute in Manali claitns to have climbed Kabru South (7.3 17 meters, 24.096 feet) for the first time. It is reported that I.3 mcmbcrs reached the top led by Captain S.P. -
Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel Day 3 – Ski Mountainee
Day 1 – Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel ● Lesson 1: Introduction to Glacier Kit ● Lesson 2: Equalized anchor, knots and rappelling ● Lesson 3: Ascending the rope – prussic, ratchet, reverse ● Lesson 4: Situational awareness, review hazards ● Lesson 5: Glacier travel rope handling & crevasse rescue ● Lesson 6: Dividing the rope ● Lesson 7: The prussik ● Lesson 8: Arresting the fall, holding the victim and anchor building ● Lesson 9: Backing up anchor and approaching the lip ● Lesson 10: Canadian drop loop system demo ● Lesson 11: Incorporating a ratchet ● Lesson 12: First raise method, z-pulley raising system, adding advantage. ● Lesson 13: Reversing the raise & lowering ● Lesson 14: Crevasse Rescue Scenario ● Lesson 15: Problem-solving specific scenario Day 2 – Winter Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel ● Lesson 16: Rope up point strategy (map & altimeter) & white out plan ● Lesson 17: Glacier formation, physiology, terminology and travel including rope handling and taking coils ● Lesson 18: Safe glacier travel route finding & track setting – crevasse avoidance, serac hazard mitigation, dealing with avalanche terrain, crevasse bridge integrity and evaluation ● Lesson 19: Traveling in echelon & belaying across crevasse bridges ● Lesson 20: Downhill glacier skiing safety strategy Day 3 – Ski Mountaineering Skills Day ● Lesson 1: “Snow and ice school” – introduction to ski mountaineering equipment, ski crampons and boot crampons, ice axe. ● Lesson 2: Ascending/descending and moving in steeper firmer/crusted/icy slopes. ● Lesson 3: Belaying and rappelling, anchors. ● Lesson 4: Roped vs. unroped terrain – belaying, rope management, short roping, boot packing, stowing the skis on the pack, ridge walking. Day 4 – Ski Mountaineering Skills Day ● Lesson 5: Ski mountaineering objective: situational awareness, route finding and track setting in Class 3 (complex) terrain. -
IWLS Climbing, Mountaineering, and Trekking Course Policies
Nepal Mountaineering Course Course Overview Ascending into the upper Khumbu, the backdrop of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam have inspired mountaineers like few other places. The peaks of Chukung Ri (18,253 ft/5565m), (Lobuche (20,075ft/6,119m) Imja Tse or Island Peak (20,285ft/6,183m), and potentially Mera Peak (21,247ft/6,476m) offer a world class mountaineering classroom for students on an IWLS Nepal mountaineering course. You’ll set fixed lines, learn about high altitude medicine and attempt to summit these incredible peaks. Between setting a high camp, reviewing crevasse rescue skills and teaching your peers about the rest step, you’ll enjoy the company of the friendly Sherpa people and learn about their culture. The IWLS Nepal mountaineering course is perfect for students who want to develop high altitude mountaineering skills, international expedition experience and leadership ability in a world class setting. Course Location Draped along the spine of the Himalayas, Nepal is a land of spectacular scenery, ancient Buddhist monasteries and some of the best trekking, mountaineering, and river rafting on earth. Tumultuous rivers fill glaciated valleys, ancient trails meander below towering 8000 meter peaks and villages dot the landscape. IWLS courses here offer a chance to experience the incredible Sherpa culture, trek through the awesome panorama of the Himalayas, climb amongst the tallest peaks of the world, and raft awe inspiring whitewater while learning expedition and leadership skills. Kathmandu is the starting and ending point for our mountaineering in Nepal. It is a fascinating city with many interesting sights. While in Kathmandu we will visit the Hindu and Buddhist temples of Syhumbunath, Bodanath, and Pashupatinath as well as the historic Durbar Square. -
Christophe Dumarest
THE CLIMB INTERVIEW Lucia Prosino talks to CHRISTOPHE DUMAREST France is renowned as a country of exceptional climbers and outstanding mountaineers. Christophe Dumarest is no exception. Behind this highly skilled athlete, however, lies an inventive and attentive person, always ready to crack a joke and eager to share his experiences with others. He’s climbed extensively in the Greater Ranges and opened many new routes in the Alps, such as Tifenn (V6 A1 M8+, 1100 m) on the Aiguille Sans Nom, Destruction Massive (M7/IV, 400m) on the north face of the Tournier Spur on the Droites, and Jean-Chri (7a+, A1, 800 m) on the, Hidden Pillar of Freney. He’s also repeated some of the famous hard modern classics in the range, such as the Lesueur Route (ED3, M8+, 900 m) on the north face of the Dru, and the Gousseault/Desmaison (M7+, 1100m) route with a direct variation. But he prefers to spend his time devising his next enchainments, with a keen eye on the aesthetics of the mountain range in question, and the historical aspects of the routes he chooses to link up. Lucia Prosino recently spoke to Christophe about his life and climbs, the role of ethics in the sport, and the enduring respect he has for British climbers and mountaineers. Mont Blanc is your home and your playground. (Largo’s Route, ED1, W16, M5 X 5c). Why are a lot of Can you still write history there? strong alpinists going to China these days? Well I started going to the mountains aged four, and before ten I China is an immense country, rich in history and traditions, had already gone up a 4000 metre peak in the Mont Blanc area, all still pretty much unknown. -
Accidentology of Mountain Sports Situation Review & Diagnosis
Accidentology of mountain sports Situation review & diagnosis Bastien Soulé Brice Lefèvre Eric Boutroy Véronique Reynier Frédérique Roux Jean Corneloup December 2014 A study produced by a research group Scientific supervisor: Bastien Soulé, sociologist Université Lyon 1, Sporting research and innovation centre Brice Lefèvre, sociologist Université Lyon 1, Sporting research and innovation centre Eric Boutroy, anthropologist Université Lyon 1, Sporting research and innovation centre Véronique Reynier, psychologist Université Grenoble Alpes, Sport & social environment laboratory Frédérique Roux, jurist Université Lyon 1, Sporting research and innovation centre Jean Corneloup, sociologist Université de Clermont-Ferrand, UMR PACTE CNRS With scientific support from PARN, Alpine centre for study and research in the field of natural risk prevention Acknowledgements We would like to thank all those contacted for interviews (sometimes several times) for their kind collaboration. We were authorised by most of the parties involved to access their accident/rescue intervention data. Being conscious of the sensitive nature of such information, and the large number of requests to access it, we hereby express our deepest gratitude. We would also like to thank the Petzl Foundation for having initiated and supported this project, and particularly Philippe Descamps for his openness and patience, Olivier Moret and Stéphane Lozac’hmeur for their assistance with this project. Cover photo: © O. Moret Back cover: © O. Moret Layout: Blandine Reynard Translation: -
New Yorker Magazine
ANNALS OF ADVENTURE THE MANIC MOUNTAIN Ueli Steck and the clash on Everest. BY NICK PAUMGARTEN TH RIFFI G AN H NAT JO 46 THE NEW YO R K E R , J U N E 3 , 2 0 1 3 TNY—2013_06_03—PAGE 46—133SC.—LIVE ART R23602—EXTREMELY CRITICAL PHOTOGRAPH TO BE WATCHED THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE PRESS RUN 4C eli Steck’s closest brush with death, many of whom work as porters and guides April 27th was the day that a team of or at least the time he thought it like- for the commercial expeditions on Ever- Sherpas were installing the fixed rope. It liestU that he was about to die, came not est. This was on the first day that the is an essential and difficult job, involving when he plummeted seven hundred feet weather cleared for a summit push. The heavy gear and extreme working condi- down the south face of Annapurna, or next day, the crowds went up—hundreds tions on an ice cliff riddled with crevasses. spidered up the Eiger’s fearsome North of aspirants, most of them clients of com- The day before, the Sherpas, with help Face alone and without ropes in under mercial companies, and their Sherpas— from three Western guides, had nearly three hours, or slipped on wet granite and, amid the traffic jam approaching the completed the job but came to an untra- while free-climbing the Golden Gate summit, four climbers died, of exposure versable crevasse, which had forced them route of El Capitan with his wife, on their and cerebral edema. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
25 An even score Greg Child’s 1983 trip to the Karakoram left him with a chaotic collage of experiences—from the exhilaration of a first ascent of Lobsang Spire to the feeling of hopelessness and depression from losing a friend and climbing partner. It also left his mind filled with strong memories—of people, of events and of mountains. Of the images of mountains that remained sharply focused in Child’s mind, the most enduring perhaps was not that of K2 or its satellite 8000 m peaks. It was of Gasherbrum IV, a strikingly symmetrical trapezoid of rock and ice that presided over Concordia at the head of the Baltoro Glacier (see image 25.1). Though far less familiar than Ama Dablam, Machhapuchhare or the Matterhorn, it is undeniably one of the world’s most beautiful mountains. Child said: After Broad Peak I’d promised myself I would never return to the Himalayas. It was a personal, emphatic, and categoric promise. It was also a promise I could not keep. Again and again the symmetrical silhouette of a truncated, pyramidal mountain kept appearing in my thoughts: Gasherbrum IV. My recollection of it from the summit ridge of Broad Peak, and Pete’s suggestion to some day climb its Northwest Ridge, remained etched in my memory.1 Gasherbrum IV offered a considerable climbing challenge in addition to its beauty. Remarkably, the peak had been climbed only once—in 1958, by its North-East Ridge by Italians Carlo Mauri and Walter Bonatti. There are at least two reasons for its amazing lack of attention. -
An Illustration of Crevasse Rescue
An Illustration of Crevasse Rescue - the one thousand steps you need to know to save your climbing partner without breaking your back 9th revision, the color coordinated version! updated 1/4/2012, compliant with the Freedom of the Hills 8th edition 3 3 / / W W 3 / W W Copyright Deling Ren 2010-2011. Created with Microsoft Visio ®. Thanks to all reviewers and http://www.visguy.com for the climber stencil. · A rope team travels on crevassed • terrain. · The leader (Ryan) probes the ground with his ice axe. · The team keeps slack out of the rope to minimize the length of a fall. Ryan Brooke Grace · Ryan falls into a crevasse, yelling • • “falling”. · All rope team members yell “falling” and arrest. Tips 1. First establish contact with the fallen climber. Ask if he's able to get out by himself. 2. If not, try other alternatives, e.g. direct pull, or a 2:1 system (C-pulley) before setting up a time consuming Z-pulley. 3. In the following steps, communicate with the fallen climber if possible, keep him informed of what’s going on. · Grace (end person) eases up as • • • Brooke (middle person) holds the weight of Ryan, the fallen climber. · Grace then comes down and passes Brooke using a prusik as her protection, probing with her ice axe. · Grace builds an initial anchor with a • • • • picket planted in the snow. · She connects the weighted rope to the anchor using a prusik hitch. · Brooke slowly transfers weight to the anchor. · Brooke moves down but still keeps in self arrest position. -
AGI-Client-Waiver.Pdf
MOUNTAINEERING, ROCK CLIMBING AND INDOOR CLIMBING RELEASE OF LIABILITY, WAIVER OF CLAIMS, EXPRESS ASSUMPTION OF RISK AND INDEMNITY AGREEMENT. Please read and be certain you understand the implications of signing. Express assumption of Risk Associated with Mountaineering, Climbing, Skiing and Related Activities. I, _______________________ do hereby affirm and acknowledge that I have been fully informed of the inherent hazards and risks associated with Mountaineering, Rock Climbing and Indoor Climbing activities, transportation of equipment related to the activities, and traveling to and from activities sites of which I am about to engage in. Inherent hazards and risks include but are not limited to: 1. Risk of injury from the activity and equipment utilized in Mountaineering, Rock Climbing and Indoor Climbing is significant including the potential for permanent disability and death. 2. Possible equipment failure and/or malfunction of my own or others’ equipment. 3. My own negligence and/or the negligence of others, including employees, agents, independent contractors or representatives of Alpine Guides International including but not limited to operator error. 4. Injury to hands, fingers, feet, and toes, including but not limited to inflammation and/or strain of muscles ligaments and/or tendons, nerve damage or compression, and broken bones. 5. Injury from falling may occur from exposure to high altitude, which may affect judgment and coordination, or from not paying close attention to your climbing or others climbing with or near you. 6. Broken bones, severe injuries to the head, neck, and back which may result in severe physical impairment or even death. 7. Discharge of weapons in or near the area of activity.