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Smudge pots provide protection against spring frosts in Napa Valley. march 2011 march 12 I CALIFORNIA 65 I GREECE 207 additional reviews 19 additional reviews available online available online 29 I OREGON 67 I CypRus 135 additional reviews available online 67 I sICILy 37 I 21 additional reviews 96 additional reviews available online available online 84 I spIRIts 56 I LANGuEdOC- 18 additional reviews ROussILLON available online 16 additional reviews 86 I bEER available online

FOR AddItIONAL RAtINGs ANd REvIEws, vIsIt buyINGGuIdE.wINEMAG.COM

thE ORIGINAL 40 from Cahors AMERICAN 67 rated 90+ from CA and OR AustRIA, GERMANy, sOuth AFRICA 211 new reviews buyINGGuIdE.wINEMAG.COM © Randy Mi R a M ontez BUYING GUIDE GUIDE BUYING WineMag.com | 59 California IS STILL THE KING s writers and critics, our editors and , as well as , Sauvignon spend a lot of time researching the next Blanc and . But if Pinot Gris is a Abig thing: Which regions of the world are favorite, read on a few more pages and peruse Goldeneye 2007 Ten Degrees hot? What grape variety is poised to take off? Paul Gregutt’s reviews of Oregon wines, where 98 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); Who are the new winemakers to watch? Some- that variety often takes center stage. $100. This is a best barrel blend of Goldeneye’s times, amid all that clamor, it’s easy to overlook To complement our cover story, this issue of several . It takes its beautifully ripe fruit the basics, like California’s Napa Valley and its the Buying Guide also contains extensive sections from Confluence and the tannins of The Narrows ironclad affinity for Cabernet Sauvignon. on Argentina, to match our coverage of that to yield a dry, densely constructed and moder- In this issue, Contributing Editor Steve country’s burgeoning success (pages 32–36). ately ageable wine of exceptionally high quality Heimoff delivers the forest (Napa Valley Caber- Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, our and appeal. Blackberries, blueberries, cherries net) and the trees (hot regions and star wine- expert reviewers look at the latest releases from and exotic spices characterize the flavors of this makers). The top scorers include wines from France’s Cahors and Languedoc-Roussillon tremendous wine, one of the best of the newcomers Arkenstone—the 2006 is the Krausz regions, South Africa, Austria, Germany, Greece out of the Anderson Valley. Only 222 cases were family’s first commercial release, from high on and Italy, including a section specially devoted to produced. Howell Mountain—and Au Sommet, a Heidi the wines of Sicily. On this warm, Mediterranean Barrett project based atop Atlas Peak. Yet mixed island filled with intriguing indigenous varieties, in with this month’s highflying rookies (the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is thriving, either bottled on is the first Au Sommet produced) are highly rated its own or as part of proprietary blends. wines from such stalwarts as Charles Krug, Dia- Finally, remember that the reviews appearing mond Creek, Merryvale and Newton. in print represent only a fraction of the wines we Of course, California vineyards can grow other taste every month. For all of our reviews, visit grape varieties as well, and this issue includes buyingguide.winemag.com. numerous reviews of , Pinot Noir, —JOE CZERWINSKI Arkenstone 2006 Obsidian (How- 97 ell Mountain); $120. This is a devas- Superbly enjoyable, but as a brand new wine, its tatingly good Bordeaux blend from Howell RED WINES future is only a guess. Drink now–2014? —S.H. Mountain. Based on Cabernet, it has all the flavor you could ask for in blackberries, cherries, cassis, CABERNETS & BLENDS Charles Krug 2007 Limited chocolate, herbs, spices and sweetly smoked . 96 Release Cabernet Sauvignon But the structure is awesome. Near perfect tan- Arkenstone 2006 Obsidian (How- (Howell Mountain); $120. This dramatic, nins, soft and intricately firm, and grand acidity 97 ell Mountain); $120. This is a devas- compulsively good Cabernet is the first Howell make for a total Cabernet experience. Tremen- tatingly good Bordeaux blend from Howell Mountain Cab ever from the . It’s enor- dous now, and should age for years. Mountain. Based on Cabernet, it has all the flavor mous and gigantic in volume, with blackberry and you could ask for in blackberries, cherries, cassis, cherry pie filling, cassis and oak flavors that Au Sommet chocolate, herbs, spices and sweetly smoked oak. scream, yet the tannins are tight, and the wine is 97 2008 Cabernet But the structure is awesome. Near perfect tan- so dry, the rich fruit is cloaked in a veil of control. Sauvignon (Atlas nins, soft and intricately firm, and grand acidity Really defines an important new step for this vet- Peak); $250. So good, so make for a total Cabernet experience. Tremen- eran winery. Drink now–2020. —S.H. rich, so stunning, it’s just a dous now, and should age for years. —S.H. joy to drink even now in its Arkenstone 2007 Obsidian (How- youth. Defines the Heidi Au Sommet 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- 95 ell Mountain); $120. So softly deli- Barrett style of big, ripe, 97 gnon (Atlas Peak); $250. So good, cious, so complex and sensually satisfying, this exuberant fruit and a clas- so rich, so stunning, it’s just a joy to drink even Bordeaux blend, which is based on Cabernet sic structure, enhanced in now in its youth. Defines the Heidi Barrett style Sauvignon and contains all the other classic vari- this case by the firm tan- of big, ripe, exuberant fruit and a classic struc- eties, is truly a wine to savor. The blackberry and nins and fine acids of Atlas Peak. Explosive in ture, enhanced in this case by the firm tannins cassis flavors have an edge of chocolate, and the blackberry and cherry pie filling and cassis fla- and fine acids of Atlas Peak. Explosive in black- deliciousness is compounded by superbly ripe, vors, with a distinct mineral tang that must come berry and cherry pie filling and cassis flavors, with sculpted tannins and a long but thoroughly dry from the volcanic soils. Contains 2% Petit Verdot. a distinct mineral tang that must come from the Superbly enjoyable, but as a brand new wine, its volcanic soils. Contains 2% Petit Verdot. Continued on page 12 future is only a guess. Drink now–2014?

2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Amuse Bouche 95 2008 (Napa Valley); $200. One sip is all it takes to understand that this is a vital, impressive and possi- bly profound wine. A blend Goldeneye 2007 Confluence Vine- of 96% Merlot and 4% 97 yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); , it displays $75. A spectacular Pinot, continuing a string of the voluptuous richness of great from this little . The year a Heidi Barrett wine, but also shows a firmness of Keller Estate 2007 Precioso Pinot 2007 gave California supernaturally rich but bal- character and a structural dryness that elevate it. 95 Noir (Sonoma Coast); $75. A daz- anced Pinot Noirs, and this is one of them. It’s Exceptionally flavorful in blackberries and cher- zlingly good Pinot Noir. Hard to exaggerate the sensational, offering broad, exotic fruit flavors, ries, it has tantalizing hints of herbs, olive tape- precision of flavor and structure. Shows the mas- pinpointed with exotic spices, and exquisitely nade and, of course, intensely fine oak. Drink sively ripe character of the vintage, with a star- highlighted with French oak. Truly fine, this now–2016. burst of raspberries, cherries, cola, minerals and small-production wine should age over the next spices, while the acidity and tannins are just 6–8 years. about perfect. This crowd pleaser is just extraor- dinary now, and should develop in the bottle over Gérard the next six years. 96 Bertrand 1929 Legend Vin- tage (Maury); $380. With only 795 bottles produced, this is a special treat. Although it’s ready to Arkenstone 2007 Obsidian (How- drink now, it has the 95 ell Mountain); $120. So softly deli- structure and pedigree cious, so complex and sensually satisfying, this to age for decades. Bordeaux blend, which is based on Cabernet Ponzi 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir Loaded with rich nut Sauvignon and contains all the other classic vari- 95 (Willamette Valley); $60. A gorgeous and rancio flavors, there’s so much going on; aro- eties, is truly a wine to savor. The blackberry and wine, lush and refined from the first sniff to the mas of dried orange peel, gingerbread, toasted cassis flavors have an edge of chocolate, and the last swallow. Rose petals, cotton candy, chocolate- macadamia nut and a drizzle of molasses lead deliciousness is compounded by superbly ripe, covered cherries—it’s a date in a bottle. As the into flavors of dried red plum and fig dusted with sculpted tannins and a long but thoroughly dry wine rolls across the palate it seems to gain depth Nutella powder and soft white pepper. Complex, finish. Dazzlingly good, and could develop bottle and detail, while keeping the exceptionally pretty spicy and full, with an endless finish. Imported by complexity over the years. fruit flavors front and center. Silky and lightly Gerard Bertrand USA. Cellar Selection. spicy, with cinnamon, toast, mocha and tobacco highlights. Editors’ Choice.

Sinatra Family 95 2008 Caber- net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $95. Repre- senting a breathtaking advancement over the Goldeneye 2007 The Narrows Keller Estate 2007 Precioso ’07, Sinatra’s 2008 Cab is 96 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson 95 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $75. simply delicious. It’s Valley); $75. This is a big Pinot Noir, dark and An extraordinary Chardonnay whose complicated fleshy and fat in texture, full bodied and juicy in pomegranates, cherries, richness is balanced with tight acidity and a firm with a glyceriney rich- red plums and sautéed wild mushrooms, and the grounding of stony minerals. Brings to mind a ness that makes it almost interplay of oak with fruit even yields richer notes great Chablis, with its zesty tang followed by oily and that, when com- of milk chocolate. It’s devastatingly good, but also elaborate layers of tropical fruits and pears. bined with caramelized oak, turns into nougat. too young and fresh now to show its best. With its Utterly delicious, wildly appealing, a wine that The blackberry, cherry and cassis fruit flavors rise fine tannins and exquisite balance, this articulate will develop bottle interest over the next six years. to the occasion. This is truly a stunningly good young wine should be best after 2013. Only 97 cases were produced. Cabernet.

WineMag.com | 3 Kirkland Sig- 93 nature 2008 Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $20. Run, don’t walk, to find this amazingly priced Cabernet. It’s so good and rich, it easily holds its own against Cabs costing Trisaetum 2009 Estate Trisaetum 2009 Josahn Riesling five times as much. Dry 93 (Willamette Valley); $24. This gor- 94 (Willamette Valley); $24. A dry and smooth in tannins, it geous new release, from a young winery with a wine, companion to the winery’s off-dry estate offers a burst of black- Riesling focus, is resplendent with an enticing bottling. This does not give up its fruit as some berry, black cherry, cassis mix of flowers, fruits and stone. The scents well dry do; there is a pleasing mix of lemon, and chocolate flavors, with a wonderful coating of up from the glass and the flavors fill the mouth grapefruit, pineapple and apricot, full in the mid- oak. Drink now–2013. Editors’ Choice. with a lively zest, pulling together streaks of palate, then turning more astringent and cheerily lemon, lime, nectarine and apricot, accented with tart in the finish. This is very young, compact, citrus rind and wet rock, honey and lemon tea. and still tight as a drum; it could be cellared for Editors’ Choice. up to a decade. Cellar Selection.

Newton 2007 Unfiltered Cabernet 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $60. A beautiful Cabernet, dry, smoothly tannic and ArborBrook Vineyards 2009 Croft Goldeneye 2007 Gowan Creek impressive for its volume of flavor. Shows a com- 92 Vineyard Pinot Gris (Willamette 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson plex range of blackberries, black currants, miner- Valley); $18. Bright and spicy, this is Pinot Gris Valley); $75. Dark and tannic, reflecting the als and oak, with a long, spicy finish. Elegant and with a bit of the grassy bite of a vineyard’s location in the cooler, foggier north- powerful at the same time, it should develop in . Racy and loaded with grape- west, this Pinot Noir is dramatic in depth of fla- the bottle over the next decade. fruit and pineapple flavors, this lingers lazily vor. With its core of blackberries, cherries, through a refreshing, acid-driven finish that blueberries, cola and rhubarb, it’s tight and rigid Trefethen 2007 Mer- invites further sipping. Editors’ Choice. now, suggesting 5–6 years in the cellar. 93 lot (Oak Knoll); $35. Easily one of the best Napa Val- ley out there. The cool vintage and southerly valley ori- gins have played a role in giving a firm, dry structure to the cherry, currant, olive, mushu plum sauce and herb flavors. A quality wine, distinctive and complex, and for the price, a relative value. Edi- Arista 2008 Mononi Vineyard tors’ Choice. 92 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); Keller Estate 2007 La Cruz Vine- $56. Lots of zesty acidity in this Pinot Noir, 93 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); giving the pomegranate, rhubarb, red cherry and $36. A few years in the bottle are beginning to licorice flavors a bright edge. The wine is very age this charming Chardonnay, although its brisk dry and complexly layered. Interesting now, if a acidity and minerality remain. The pear, guava, bit primary in fruit, and balanced enough to nectarine and tangerine flavors are just starting to develop additional nuances over the next six pick up a dried fruit character. Complex and years. savory, it’s a very fine wine to drink now.

4|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Kanzler 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 92 Coast); $48. This young, impetuous Newton 2006 Unfiltered Merlot Vina Robles 2009 Chardonnay Pinot Noir needs time in the cellar to calm down. 92 (Napa Valley); $60. Soft, slightly hot 92 (Monterey); $19. Just when this It’s all about fresh acidity of the citrus kind and and peppery in alcohol, but very dry, this Merlot Chard seems simple and sweet, the fruit is over- ripe, jammy cherry and raspberry fruit, not to shows intense flavors of cherry marmalade, black- taken by acidity and minerality, taking the tan- mention sweet, unintegrated oak. Give it a good berry essence, dark chocolate and cedar. It’s a gerine, lime and mango flavors to the next level four years. rich wine to drink with grilled steak. The tannins and making the wine complex and fascinating. will balance out the meaty richness. Shows how exceptional can result in exceptional wine. Editors’ Choice. Quest Cellars 92 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $26. A fine bottle, fresh and fruity, with cranberry, rasp- berry and cherry fruit in Keller Estate 2007 La Cruz Vine- abundance. It’s got 92 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); depth and vitality, a $44. Made in a light-bodied, lower-alcohol style, youthful verve that this Pinot feels silky and gentle in the mouth. It promises fine ageability. Virage 2007 Red Wine (Napa Val- really delivers when it comes to flavor. Displays Aged in 28% new French oak, it is just barely 92 ley); $45. This first release from the big, impressive notes of raspberries, cherries, Dr. kissed with toast and mocha. A wonderful value. winery is a fine Bordeaux blend based on Caber- Pepper cola, red licorice, beef jerky and smoky Editors’ Choice. net Sauvignon. It shows all the hallmarks of a sandalwood that are complex and satisfying, and cooler-climate Napa Valley wine in the dryness, that finish entirely dry. Drink now and over the refined tannins and herb-inflected cherries and next four years. blackberries. An elegant, balanced wine that should develop over the next 5–7 years.

Regale Winery and Vineyards 92 2008 O’Neel Vineyard Pinot Noir Lungarotti 2005 Rubesco Riserva (Russian River Valley); $48. The 2008 vin- Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 92 Vigna Monticchio (Torgiano); $57. tage was cool and resulted in lighter-bodied wines 92 South Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Chiara Lungarotti says that this vintage of her that also were lower in alcohol. That trend bene- Valley); $45. Pretty and complex, this delivers a vineyard-designate Riserva represents a mile- fited wines like this lovely one from Regale. It mélange of interesting flavors. Round, tart stone for her family run estate. Indeed, this is a has a transparent, silky texture, yet is very rich in fruits—berries and sour plum—mingle with rich and elegant red wine that shows signature cherry pie filling, bacon and Indian spices. Feels dried leaves, cut tobacco and mushroom. Some- notes of wild berry and spice that reflect her beautiful and complex now, and should develop how a citrus streak sneaks into the finish, giving beloved territory: Umbria. Imported by Vin bottle nuance over the next six years. the wine a lemony lift. Delicious already, it can be Divino. cellared for another 5–6 years. Editors’ Choice.

WineMag.com | 5 Zaca Mesa 2007 Mesa Reserve J. Lohr 2008 Fog’s Reach Pinot Planeta 2008 Chardonnay (Sicilia); 92 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); $42. 91 Noir (Arroyo Seco); $35. Shows true 91 $40. Here’s a smooth and saturated Young and vigorous now, marked by tannins and cool-climate character in the aromas and Chard that beams strong with the Sicilian sun- dryness that mask the fruit, making the wine flavors of cherries, cola, pomegranates and shine within. The bouquet opens with warm aro- somewhat aloof. However, the fruit is huge. It’s rhubarb pie, with complicating notes from mas of yellow rose, stone fruit, almond and ripe and succulent in blackberries and black charred oak barrels. Very good, mouthfilling and creamy vanilla. In the mouth, it shows rich, full cherries, and you’ll find additional notes of dry, with brisk acidity. Should develop in the bot- flavors that would pair with shellfish or white smoked meat and black pepper for complexity. A tle for a few years. meat. Imported by Palm Bay International. wonderful Syrah that needs 3–5 years to blossom. Cellar Selection. Kirkland Signa- 91 ture 2008 Sig- nature Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville); $19. Cabernet from Oakville for under $20? Yes, and it’s a really good one. It’s dry and full bodied and rich in classic blackber- ries and cassis. How Kirk- Planeta 2008 Cometa (Sicilia); $40. ArborBrook Vineyards 2008 Estate land sells it so inexpensively 91 Cometa is a fantastic expression of Fiano 91 777 Block Pinot Noir (Chehalem is a mystery. Classically from Sicily that reaches high marks in terms of Mountains); $45. This is a truly appealing structured, even ageworthy. Drink now–2015. purity, intensity and persistency. The wine is thick wine that seduces with chocolate-covered cherry Editors’ Choice. and smooth on the palate and imparts lasting fla- flavors and soft, inviting tannins. The balance and vors of stone fruit, honeydew melon and almond concentration are all in proportion, with no Newton 2007 blossom. Imported by Palm Bay International. reliance on too much new oak (just 25% first use) 91 The Puzzle for the flavor. Details of spice and fresh tarragon (Spring Mountain); enliven the aftertaste. $80. This Cabernet Sauvi- gnon-based Bordeaux blend is very rich and elaborate, a major league hitter for its spectacular fruit and tannins. The flavors are deep and concentrated, suggesting perfectly ripened black- Planeta 2007 Merlot (Sicilia); $40. berries, cassis and milk chocolate, with a mineral- 91 This full and generous Merlot (with a ArborBrook Vineyards 2008 Vint- ity that must come from the soil. It’s also very small percentage of Petit Verdot in the blend for 91 ner’s Select Pinot Noir (Chehalem soft, in the modern style. extra richness) delivers beautifully elegant aro- Mountains); $60. This is the reserve, a barrel mas of cherry, white mineral, spice, leather and selection limited to just 100 cases. The selection dried tobacco. It is smooth and rich with a very was done well and is meaningful; this has more fine quality of soft tannin. Imported by Palm Bay grip and body than the excellent Estate 777 Pinot International. Editors’ Choice. Noir that precedes it in price. A mix of Northwest berries define the fruit, set against moderately stiff tannins with suggestions of caramel from the oak aging. Put this one in the cellar. Cellar Selection.

6|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Trefethen 2008 Dry 91 Riesling (Oak Knoll); $22. Like it says, this Riesling is bone dry. It’s also crisp in acidity, with a tang of minerals and steel. It gains Arista 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian richness from a rich core of 90 River Valley); $42. Although this isn’t Domaines Paul Mas 2008 Château lemon, lime and orange citrus one of Arista’s single-vineyard bottlings, it’s right 90 Paul Mas Clos des Mûres (Coteaux flavors, and possesses that note up there with them, offering rich flavors and a du Languedoc); $20. Composed of 85% of diesel that a fine, cool cli- lovely structure. It’s dry and silky, with brisk acid- Syrah, 10% and 5% Mourvèdre and mate Riesling shows. Should ity backing raspberry, cherry and sandalwood fla- aged in almost exclusively new oak for eight develop over the next six years. vors, and an earthy hint of balsam-splashed months, this is an opulent wine loaded with dark Editors’ Choice. beefsteak tomato. Drink now–2013. cherry and raspberry, mocha and garrigue spice throughout. It’s full and lush but balanced and well integrated. Drinks beautifully now but should hold for another couple of years. Imported by Palm Bay International.

Arista 2008 Toboni Vineyard Pinot 90 Noir (Russian River Valley); $56. Good blackberry, cherry, cola and pomegranate flavors in this rich, dry wine, but it’s also tight in Dr. Loosen 2009 Blue Slate Ries- tannins and brisk in acidity. Too hard and unsup- 90 ling Kabinett (Mosel); $20. As with ple for drinking now. Give it 4–5 years to change all of the Dr. Loosen wines, this blended kabi- Zisola 2007 Doppiozeta (Sicilia); in the bottle. nett is very fruit-forward and direct. The green 91 $60. Opens with a rich, saturated apple and lime notes are wonderfully pure and appearance, impressive complexity and intense balanced. Drink this light, spritely wine over the aromas of ripe fruit and spice. The blend sees next few years. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. Nero d’Avola, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, and Editors’ Choice. you can recognize the amazing fruit characteris- tics of each variety. The oak is still very present on the nose, but the tannins are soft. Imported by Palm Bay International.

Buehler 2009 Reserve Chardonnay 90 (Russian River Valley); $20. This is the kind of Chardonnay that divides wine lovers into enemy camps. Old World purists will criti- cize the candied richness. New World fans will J. Lohr 2009 Falcon’s Perch Pinot love the toasted marshmallow, caramel corn and 90 Noir (Monterey County); $17. A buttered toast flavors that rest on a solid founda- delicious Pinot Noir to drink now with upscale Arista 2008 Longbow Pinot Noir tion of pineapple and green apple fruit. fare. It’s very fruity, offering a burst of raspberries 90 (Russian River Valley); $48. Crisp- and cherries, together with a coat of sweet, smoky ness and dryness mark this elegant young Pinot oak. But crisp acidity and smooth, silky tannins Noir. It feels silky, almost delicate in the mouth, provide a balanced structure. but with powerful cherry, pomegranateand cola flavors. Should develop for up to six years in the bottle.

WineMag.com | 7 Regale Winery and Vineyards Joel Gott 2009 Unoaked Chardon- 90 2008 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Wrath 2008 Quasi Nulla Pinot Noir 90 nay (Monterey); $16. Believe me, Mountains); $65. This young Pinot is rather 90 (Monterey); $38. This Pinot is pure you won’t miss the oak barrel influence on this fruity and heavy now, like the liquid version of a California in its ripe fruitiness. It’s explosive in wine. It’s so good all by itself. Brightened with raspberry and cherry pie. Yet it has vibrant acidity cherry and raspberry jam flavors, with sandal- crisp Monterey acidity and totally dry, it’s rich in and fine tannins, leading to the eternal question: wood and dusty spice notes, and also displays pineapple, tangerine, Meyer lemon, lime, min- Will it age to something more refined? My bet is crisp, cool-climate acidity. A delicious wine to eral and vanilla flavors that will satisfy your yes. Give it 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. drink now. Chardonnay tooth. Editors’ Choice.

Bishop’s Peak 2009 Chardonnay Saxenburg Estate 2006 Private 89 (Central Coast); $15. Searing acidity Q 2008 Collection Meritage (Napa 90 Collection Shiraz (Stellenbosch); marks this wine, which tastes like it has a lot of 90 Valley); $26. Good value in a solid $20. Dark and wild, aromas of black berry and Edna Valley fruit in the blend. It also shows Napa Valley Cabernet blend with plenty of raspberry are intertwined with notes of whole bright, strong, long hangtime flavors of limes and upscale character. It’s dry and firm in tannins, tobacco leaf, sweet spice and a hint of licorice on pineapples. It’s actually quite a fine Chardonnay, with complex flavors of blackberries, black cur- the nose. The palate is lush and concentrated, dry and low in alcohol. A great value at this price. rants, herbs and cedar. Drink now. loaded with more dark fruit flavors that are lifted Editors’ Choice. by accents of white pepper, smoked meat and a mocha-infused finish. Balanced and decadent with an overall creaminess. Imported by MJM Imports. Editors’ Choice.

Redhawk 2008 Estate Pinot Noir 90 (Eola-Amity Hills); $22. A fine, Joel Gott 2007 Pelkan Ranch appealing and complex wine, Redhawk’s estate 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Val- bottling shows more concentration than its less ley); $35. Beautiful, classic blackberry and cur- expensive stablemates, with nuances of bloody Viu Manent 2007 Vibo Malbec rant fruit in this polished Cabernet, along with a meat and mint that give it an almost Rhônish 90 (Mendoza); $40. Plenty of mocha and rich, tasteful coat of sweet oak. The tannins are character. The alcohol is under 14%, and it drinks vanilla combined with racy berry aromas give this thick but refined. The grapes come from this like a Burgundy, only with beefier tannins. Edi- an ice cream sundae-type of bouquet. The palate plateau between Napa and Sonoma counties. tors’ Choice. is healthy and snappy, with lively acidity pushing Tastes young and direct now, but should settle black cherry and meaty plum flavors. Whole and down in 3–4 years. toasty on the finish, with touches of excellence throughout. Impressive for a first effort, with room to improve. Drink now through 2012. Imported by Baystate Wine Co.

8|WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 The Vineyard House 89 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (Napa Valley); $175. Thick, heavy and jammy now, with blackberry, cherry and rasp- berry flavors, balanced with good acidity. Almost rustic in the fruity Rutherford Ranch 2008 Cabernet concentration and tart acids. Your Educated Guess 2008 Cabernet 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $19. This best bet is the cellar. Try after 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $20. This Cabernet is as soft as velvet, with a clean bite of 2013. is a very nice Cabernet for drinking now. It offers acidity, and the cherry and blackberry jam flavors plenty of delicious chocolate, cherry and cinna- are evenly paired with smoky, sweet oak. Drink mon spice flavors, and is creamy and smooth in now, and easy to find, with 30,000 cases pro- tannins. duced.

Tsantali 2005 89 Rapsani Reserve (Halkidiki); $19. The Rap- sani Reserve starts with aro- mas of bitter cocoa, leather and tobacco, leading into savory sips of plum, choco- late, pepper and cinnamon. Educated Guess 2008 Chardonnay Intense and assertive, this 86 (Napa Valley); $17. Ripe and oaky in wine will offer more gener- the modern style, with strong apricot, tangerine, ous black fruit as it ages. A pineapple and peach flavors and a buttery, serious wine that pairs with Kris 2007 Heart Merlot (Sicilia); creamy texture. Offers lots of upfront Chardon- robust meat dishes. 87 $14. Franz Haas, one of Italy’s best pro- nay character. Imported by Fantis Imports, ducers from the north, has recently ventured into Inc. winemaking in the deep south. This shows great purity of fruit with aromas of raspberry, cherry, white almond and some lingering spice. Imported by Winebow.

Les Jamelles 2009 Sauvignon 85 Blanc (Pays d’Oc); $11. Soft and easy Joel Gott 2008 Zinfandel (Califor- to drink, with notes of green plum, lime citrus 88 nia); $17. A great Zinfandel for the and fresh green grass throughout. Round but price. It’s dry and elegant, with a mouthfeel structured with medium acidity and a crisp, clean somewhere between Pinot Noir and Merlot. finish. Drink now. Imported by Cellar Door Really balanced, with soft tannins and acids fram- Q 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Selections. ing oak-tinged berry and spice flavors. With 87 (Sonoma County); $14. There is a 30,000 cases produced, it should be easy to find. lot going on in this affordable Cabernet. It shows Editors’ Choice. real character in the dryness, firm tannins and classic flavors of blackberries and cedar, with a tug of herbs. A full-bodied red wine, and a great restaurant pour. Editors’ Choice.

WineMag.com | 9 SPIRITS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Canadian Mist Black Liberty 93 Diamond Premium 87 School 2008 Select Whisky (Canada; Cabernet Sauvignon Brown-Forman Beverages, (Paso Robles); $12. Louisville, KY); 43% abv, Great price for a Caber- $16. This leather club chair of a net this nice. It’s dry, whisky has a nut-brown color smooth and classic in and a pert vanilla aroma. The blackberry and currant flavor is all on the finish: com- flavors, with a deft touch plex, rich, lingering notes of Finca Sophenia 2009 Altosur Mal- of smoky oak. Just a bit cocoa, coffee and leather, bal- 88 bec (Tupungato); $12. Blackberry, too acidic; a rich steak anced with the right amount of rubber and a suggestion of minerality work well will help. Best Buy. bite. Good value. as an invitation to this juicy, woody wine that’s long and full in the mouth, with dark-fruit flavors John L. Sullivan Irish of black cherry, blackberry and plum. Woody and 93 Whiskey (Ireland; toasty, too, but dry and spicy rather than sweet, Liberty School 2008 Chardonnay Undisputed International blowsy and creamy. A nice Malbec for all occa- 87 (Central LLC, Washington, DC); 40% sions. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. Best Coast); $12. Good abv, $24. This Bourbon-barrel- Buy. price for a dry, crisp finished whiskey is a treat, with and flavor Chardon- a light amber color, caramel and nay with some real orange peel aroma, and a linger- fancy character. Flat- ing caramel and spice finish. ters the palate with Soft, smooth and full-bodied. opulent pineapple jam, pear, lemon and orange fruit flavors, finished with rich oak. Best Buy. Florio NV Fine Sweet (Marsala); 88 $13. The sweet interpretation of BEER Marsala offers a more dynamic and intense bou- quet with aromas of marron glacé, honey-covered almonds, candied fruit and dried prune. Drink it alone after dinner or pair it with a very aged La Fin du Monde Pecorino cheese. Imported by Banfi Vintners. 97 (Tripel; Unibroue, Best Buy. Canada); 9.0% abv, $10/750 ml. Golden in color with a glow- ing orange vibrancy throughout, topped by a stunning off-white Q 2009 Discovery Chardonnay head that lingers but leaves a 87 (Russian River Valley); $11. Packs sticky lacing behind when it plenty of punch into an inexpensive, everyday finally subsides. The aromas jump Chardonnay. With brisk, tangy acidity, it offers right out of the glass: ripe nec- rich, appealing flavors of pineapples, green tarine, fresh apricot and juicy cit- apples, vanilla and sweet, creamy butter. Best rus flecked with clove and Buy. peppery spice. The mouth is lively but smooth Hahn 2009 Pinot Gris (Monterey); and creamy, with a great effervescence to keep 87 $12. Lots going on in this affordable things peppy. Flavors of biscuit malts, banana, wine. It’s zesty in acidity, with a minerally bite to hard pear and more sweet lemony citrus follow the pineapple, green apple and pear jam fruit. in the mouth. The finish is crisp and clean, Straddles the border between dry and honey leaving you perfectly primed for more. sweet. Best Buy. —S.H.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Blue Fish 2009 85 Original Ries- ling (Pfalz); $9. Light in body despite 12.5% alco- hol, this lithe, sinewy Ries- ling is almost dry in style, with zippy pineapple and citrus fruit tracing a lean Q 2009 Discovery Pinot Noir (Edna Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Cabernet path down the palate. 87 Valley); $11. Racy and dry, this deli- 86 Sauvignon (California); $8. With Drink now. Imported by cious Pinot Noir offers very pleasant flavors of pleasantly dry blackberry, blueberry and herb fla- Palm Bay International. cherries, currants and cola. It feels silky in the vors as well as a kiss of oak, this is an eminently Best Buy. mouth, with zesty acidity for balance. A great drinkable Cabernet. At this price, it’s an afford- value, but case production was only 1,000. Best able quaffer for parties. Best Buy. Blue Fish 2009 Buy. 85 Sweet Riesling (Pfalz); $9. The Blue Fish Rieslings are decent efforts from the Niederkirchen coopera- tive. The 2009 Sweet Ries- ling features ripe pear and melon balanced by crisp pineapple notes. It’s rather soft and sweet, but since Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Merlot that’s what it’s supposed to MandraRossa 2007 Nero d’Avola 86 (California); $8. Dry, smooth and sur- be, it’s hard to quibble, especially at the price. 86 (Sicilia); $10. Aged in stainless steel to prisingly rich for the price. Shows pleasantly spicy Imported by Palm Bay International. Best Buy. maintain the freshness of the wine’s bright fruit cherry, bacon and herb flavors, with a silk and aromas, this is a simple easy-drinking red. The satin texture. Great value in an everyday Merlot. wine shows good harmony and bright cherry and Best Buy. blackberry flavors on the close. Imported by Palm Bay International. Best Buy.

Coastline 2008 Merlot (Paso Rob- 85 les); $10. A simple but likeable Merlot, Saronga 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- dry and tart, with pretty good flavors of cherries, MandraRossa 2007 Syrah (Sicilia); 86 gnon (Paarl); $10. Earthy notes of licorice and smoky oak. Nothing complicated, just 86 $10. Easy and genuine, this unoaked tree bark and licorice root lift the cassis and black an easy-drinking red wine for roasts and grilled expression of Syrah carries forth fresh aromas of plum aromas and flavors. Simple but well struc- meats. Best Buy. blueberry, black cherry, spice and black pepper. tured with medium tannins and a solid finish. It’s an unassuming red wine that offers the pulp Imported by MJM Imports. Best Buy. and consistency to pair with spaghetti and meat sauce. Imported by Palm Bay International. Best Buy.

WineMag.com | 1 1 BUYING I GUIDE

finish. Dazzlingly good, and could develop bottle Merryvale 2007 Oakville Grade CORRECTIONS complexity over the years. —S.H. 93 (Napa Valley); $75. A beautiful, ele- gant and dramatic blend for drinking now and Sinatra Family 2008 Cabernet over the next 6–10 years. Based on Cabernet, and The following label was inadvertently omitted 95 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $95. sourced from vineyards including Beckstoffer from the Best of Year issue’s list of Top 50 Spirits. Representing a breathtaking advancement over ToKalon and Showket, it’s flashy in blackberry, the ’07, Sinatra’s 2008 Cab is simply delicious. It’s blueberry and cassis flavors, with gorgeous, CLASSIC (96–100)/ fleshy and fat in texture, with a glyceriney rich- refined tannins. It’s throwing some tannins, so HIGHEST RECOMMEN- ness that makes it almost oily and that, when you might want to give it a proper decant. —S.H. DATION combined with caramelized oak, turns into Newton 2007 Unfiltered Cabernet nougat. The blackberry, cherry and cassis fruit Old Raj Gin (United Kingdom; Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $60. A flavors rise to the occasion. This is truly a stun- 93 Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); beautiful Cabernet, dry, smoothly tannic and ningly good Cabernet. —S.H. 46% abv, $50. This is the lower- impressive for its volume of flavor. Shows a com- plex range of blackberries, black currants, miner- proof version of the classic Old Raj. Charles Krug 2006 Vintage Selec- Lovely, complex gin bouquet offers als and oak, with a long, spicy finish. Elegant and tion Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa aromas of coriander, juniper, anise, 94 powerful at the same time, it should develop in Valley); $69. What a beautiful Cabernet. It’s orris root, ground pepper, lemon the bottle over the next decade. —S.H. dry and classically elegant, with sweet, ripe tan- peel, lead pencil, earth and tree bark. Palate entry is creamy, fruity, nins framing succulent blackberry, black cherry, Arrowood 2006 Monte Rosso spicy and minty; midpalate offers violet, cedar and mineral flavors. Really a great 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val- layers of botanical complexity over wine for drinking now, and so balanced, it will ley); $70. This Cabernet doesn’t show any signs the core juniper taste. Finishes easily negotiate a decade in the bottle. —S.H. of age, even though it’s more than four years old. with a wonderful rush of mint and baking spice. It’s still fresh and powerful in tannins, with Fabulous. Diamond Creek 2007 Volcanic Hill intensely concentrated blackberry and cassis 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- fruit. With an impeccable structure, it should eas- ley); $175. The longer this wine breathes in the ily negotiate the next decade. Cellar it. —S.H. In the February 2011 issue, the wine referred to as glass the better it gets. At first sip, it’s obviously a Barnard Griffin’s Lot 411 Cabernet Sauvignon very good wine, richly tannic and deeply impres- Diamond Creek 2007 Gravelly was actually the winery’s regular Cabernet Sauvi- sive in blackberries, cassis and oak, with a firm 92 Meadow Cabernet Sauvignon gnon. The correct label and review appear below. minerality that grounds it. But as it warms and (Napa Valley); $175. This baby Cabernet airs, the fascinating palate begins to unfold. Will plays tricks on the palate, showing appealing soft, age effortless for many years. Drink now–2020. delicious complexity, then retreating into a cloak Cellar Selection. —S.H. of tannins, and then emerging again with sweet fruit and spice. It’s bone dry, although the cher- Kirkland Signature 2008 Signature ries and blackberries show a baked-into-the-pie 93 Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa caramelized sweetness. Give this bottle a good Valley); $20. Run, don’t walk, to find this amaz- six years in the cellar, and it should continue to evolve for far longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ingly priced Cabernet. It’s so good and rich, it easily holds its own against Cabs costing five Folkway 2007 Black Ridge Vine- times as much. Dry and smooth in tannins, it yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa offers a burst of blackberry, black cherry, cassis 92 Cruz Mountains); $36. A beautiful Cabernet, and chocolate flavors, with a wonderful coating of well structured, dry and rich. It feels soft and oak. Drink now–2013. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Barnard Griffin 2008 Cabernet inviting in the mouth, with waves of ripe black- Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $17. berries and cassis, and the fine tannins that 90 Merryvale 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Forward and tasty, with violets on the nose and accompany a good mountain red wine. Contains gnon (Napa Valley); $65. a friendly mix of plum, cherry and cassis fruit, 93 Just deli- some Cabernet Franc, which adds cherry rich- dotted with cut tobacco, and finished with cious, this wine shows its pedigree from some of ness. Drink now for maximum freshness. —S.H. exceptionally smooth and polished tannins. the best vineyards in the valley, including Merry- There are chocolaty barrel notes and a seam- vale’s St. Helena estate. Dry and rich in firm but Merryvale 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- lessness to the whole wine that shouts quality refined tannins, it offers elaborate flavors of 92 gnon (Oak Knoll); $60. A tremen- all the way. Editors’ Choice. blackberries, blueberries and cherries, while 70% dous wine, satisfying in youth, but this should also new oak adds layers of buttered toast and age for a while. Made with just 2% Merlot, it’s caramel. Great for drinking now with the best impressive in young Cabernet blackberry and meats and cheeses you can find. —S.H. cassis flavors, liberally oaked and sweetly pure in

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST the finish. The tannins are so soft, yet so refined. (Oakville); $19. Cabernet from Oakville for BUYING GUIDE Should develop through the decade, but if you under $20? Yes, and it’s a really good one. It’s dry The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new drink it now, give it a good decant. —S.H. and full bodied and rich in classic blackberries releases and selected older wines evaluated by Wine Enthu- siast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. On a reg- and cassis. How Kirkland sells it so inexpensively ular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on special Sebastiani 2007 Cherryblock is a mystery. Classically structured, even agewor- tastings and the wines of specific producers. Regular contrib- Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val- utors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/ Tasting 92 thy. Drink now–2015. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren ley); $75. A lovely Cabernet. It comes from the Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Contributing winery’s vineyard in the far southern part of the Merryvale 2007 Profile (Napa Val- Editor Michael Schachner and Contributing Reviewer Jean Reilly in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bor- valley, not far from the Carneros line. The wine is 91 ley); $150. This Cabernet-based blend deaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, Contributing medium-bodied, dry, silky and elegantly tannic, of all five Bordeaux varieties is the most inacces- Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland and Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle. If a wine was evaluated by a single with complex cherry, currant, cola and cedar fla- sible of Merryvale’s ’07 portfolio, and it conse- reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. vors. Should develop bottle complexity over the quently offers the least pleasure now. It’s quite When no initials appear, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the next 6–8 years. —S.H. rich in blackberries and currants but the tannins input of all tasters. are considerable, and 90% new oak buries the Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price Trefethen 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- fruit under a cloak of char and wood tannins. cannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. 92 gnon (Oak Knoll); $55. A great, Feels rustic, but obviously pedigreed and Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. upscale wine to drink now with the best you can extremely ageable. The score could soar over the TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS pair it with. It shows classic Napa character, with next 6–9 years as the wine develops in the bottle. Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry firm, dry tannins, fine acidity and blackberry and Cellar Selection. —S.H. practices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When pos- black currant flavors. It’s almost entirely Caber- sible, wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. net Sauvignon, with tiny additions of other Bor- Newton 2007 The Puzzle (Spring ABOUT THE SCORES Mountain); $80. Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine. deaux varieties. Give it a good decant, or cellar it 91 This Cabernet Sauvi- Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompany- for 5–7 years and see what happens. —S.H. gnon-based Bordeaux blend is very rich and elab- ing tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics. orate, a major league hitter for its spectacular Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Virage 2007 Red Wine (Napa Val- fruit and tannins. The flavors are deep and Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. 92 ley); $45. This first release from the concentrated, suggesting perfectly ripened black- Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. winery is a fine Bordeaux blend based on Caber- berries, cassis and milk chocolate, with a mineral- Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. net Sauvignon. It shows all the hallmarks of a ity that must come from the soil. It’s also very Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- cooler-climate Napa Valley wine in the dryness, soft, in the modern style. —S.H. critical circumstances. refined tannins and herb-inflected cherries and Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. blackberries. An elegant, balanced wine that Volker Eisele 2007 Cabernet SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS should develop over the next 5–7 years. —S.H. 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $45. Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent qual- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price With its dryness and firm tannins, there’s lots of with unique qualities that merit special attention. Coup de Foudre 2008 Cabernet structural integrity in this Cab. New oak adds the Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $95. and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cel- 91 right suggestions of toast and wood spices. It’s an lar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection des- Made in an exceptionally ripe and strongly oaky elegantly streamlined wine whose nuanced berry, ignation does not mean that a wine must be stored to be way, this wine is rather heavy right now. The cherry and currant flavors won’t overwhelm a enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring Cabernet was blended with some Syrah and Petit beautiful cut of beef. —S.H. will be indicated. Verdot grown in a Calistoga vineyard. There’s no Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or for- questioning the richness, but it’s so ripe that the Clos Pegase 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- mulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generally blackberries veer into dark chocolate and prunes. 90 gnon (Napa Valley); $43. This is a priced at $15 or less. See what it does over the next eight years. —S.H. blend of grapes from Calistoga to Carneros. The SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing wine shows Cabernet’s full-bodied character and location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via Diamond Creek 2007 Red Rock rather fierce tannins, although it has an enormous winemag.com/contact. Inquiries should be addressed to Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon soul of blackberries, black currants and dark Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo at 914.345.8463 or 91 email [email protected]. There is no charge for (Napa Valley); $175. Awfully good, a wine that chocolate, as well as plenty of new oak. Shuttered submitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines strikes you right off the bat as important and and hard now, it should develop bottle complexity submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the complex. It’s dry and densely packed in black- over the next six years. —S.H. magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission berry and cherry pie filling, red currant, licorice form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. and sweet, smoky oak flavors. Very good and rich, Conn Creek 2006 Anthology LABELS (Napa Valley); $55. Labels are paid promotions. and winery with complicated tannins, and soft enough to 90 A beautiful, suc- representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, drink now, although it should age well. Cellar culent young Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes Selection. —S.H. that delivers plenty of flavor. It’s front-loaded and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or with blackberries, cherries, currants and choco- email [email protected]. Kirkland Signature 2008 Signature late. Delicious now, but it’s a little too soft for the Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at 91 Series Cabernet Sauvignon cellar. —S.H. buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 1 3 BUYING I GUIDE

Emblem 2007 Oso Vineyard rich, tasteful coat of sweet oak. The tannins are Really impresses for sheer ripeness and varietal 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- thick but refined. The grapes come from this purity. Lots of sweet, smoky oak adds to the vol- ley); $50. Lots of rich, ripe varietal flavor in this plateau between Napa and Sonoma counties. ume. For all the richness, it’s bone dry, with firm dry, tannic young Cabernet. It’s strong in black- Tastes young and direct now, but should settle tannins. Not one for the cellar, so drink up now. berries and cassis, with a cedary edge that has down in 3–4 years. —S.H. —S.H. the scent of a cigar box. Firm enough to develop some bottle complexity over the next 6 years or The Vineyard House 2007 Caber- Liberty School 2008 Cabernet so. —S.H. 89 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); 87 Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $12. $175. Thick, heavy and jammy now, with black- Great price for a Cabernet this nice. It’s dry, Folkway 2007 Revelator (Califor- berry, cherry and raspberry flavors, balanced with smooth and classic in blackberry and currant fla- 90 nia); $26. Mainly Merlot, this Bordeaux good acidity. Almost rustic in the fruity concen- vors, with a deft touch of smoky oak. Just a bit too blend is a combination of grapes from Santa tration and tart acids. Your best bet is the cellar. acidic; a rich steak will help. Best Buy. —S.H. Maria Valley and the Santa Cruz Mountains. It’s Try after 2013. —S.H. very rich and likeable now for its crisply acidic Mossback 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- flavors of black cherries, red currants and spices, Elements by Artesa 2007 Ele- 87 gnon (Chalk Hill); $25. Dry and tan- coated with sweet, smoky oak. Give it a brief 88 ments by Artesa Cabernet Sauvi- nic, with intense blackberry and cassis flavors. It’s decant before serving. —S.H. gnon (Napa County / Sonoma County); strong and dense and impressive, with a wonder- $20. A really nice, classically structured Caber- ful mouthfeel. Will it age? Open now through Girard 2008 Artistry (Napa Valley); net that can stand beside bottles costing far more. 2014 and see what happens. —S.H. 90 $40. Very rich and ripe in fruit, and also The blackberry and cherry flavors have a touch of rich in new oak. The combination makes for sweet oak. With savory acidity, it’s good to go now. Q 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon mouth-filling blackberry and cherry pie filling, Production was 13,500 cases. —S.H. 87 (Sonoma County); $14. There is a currant, licorice, dark chocolate and spicy flavors lot going on in this affordable Cabernet. It shows that are frankly delicious. The finish is quick, sug- Peter Franus 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- real character in the dryness, firm tannins and gesting this lovely wine is best enjoyed in its 88 gnon (Napa Valley); $40. Lots of classic flavors of blackberries and cedar, with a youth. —S.H. classic varietal character in this Cabernet. It’s very tug of herbs. A full-bodied red wine, and a great dry and rich in blackberries, cassis and herbs, restaurant pour. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Q 2008 Collection Meritage (Napa with a kiss of smoky oak. The tannins are a bit 90 Valley); $26. Good value in a solid sticky now. Give it 2–3 years in the cellar. —S.H. Rutherford Ranch 2008 Cabernet Napa Valley Cabernet blend with plenty of 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $19. This upscale character. It’s dry and firm in tannins, Sebastiani 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Cabernet is as soft as velvet, with a clean bite of with complex flavors of blackberries, black cur- 88 gnon (Sonoma County); $18. A acidity, and the cherry and blackberry jam flavors rants, herbs and cedar. Drink now. —S.H. nice Cabernet at a good enough price to drink are evenly paired with smoky, sweet oak. Drink on a regular basis with a upscale meal. It’s dry now, and easy to find, with 30,000 cases pro- Sebastiani 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- and elegant, with blackberry, black cherry and duced. —S.H. 90 gnon (Alexander Valley); $30. currant flavors, elaborated with smoky oak. Sebastiani knows how to make good Cabernet. Shows real charm. —S.H. Trig Point 2007 Diamond Dust It’s wired into their hard drive, and with this 87 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon lovely ’07, they’ve again succeeded. The wine is Bella Victorian Vineyard 2007 (Alexander Valley); $20. A soft, herbal dry, elegant and drinkable now with upscale fare. 87 Kimberly Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet, with sage, dill, tobacco, black cherry It shows the herbal quality of Alexander Valley (Napa Valley); $70. Tons of blackberry, black and mulberry flavors. It’s very dry, and has a cer- Cabs, with a sage note to the blackberries, cher- cherry and cassis flavors in this dry, tannic wine. tain elegance. —S.H. ries and sweet tobacco. —S.H. It’s somewhat direct now, like fruit jam tarted up with citrusy acidity. Could age well, but it’s a close Genuine Risk 2006 Cabernet Emblem 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- call to predict. —S.H. 86 Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley); 89 gnon (Rutherford); $50. This is a $22. A rustic wine, with semisweet blackberry very good Cab to drink now for its firm, dry Educated Guess 2008 Cabernet and cherry pie filling flavors and jagged tannins. mouthfeel and ripe flavors of cherries, currants 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $20. This There’s a funky, barnyardy thing you’ll either like and cedar. It feels elegant and distinguished. But is a very nice Cabernet for drinking now. It offers or won’t. —S.H. it’s also thick in dusty tannins, and should slowly plenty of delicious chocolate, cherry and cinna- evolve in the bottle for 6–7 years. —S.H. mon spice flavors, and is creamy and smooth in Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Cabernet tannins. —S.H. 86 Sauvignon (California); $8. With Joel Gott 2007 Pelkan Ranch pleasantly dry blackberry, blueberry and herb fla- 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Val- Janzen 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon vors as well as a kiss of oak, this is an eminently ley); $35. Beautiful, classic blackberry and cur- 87 (Napa Valley); $33. Tons of black- drinkable Cabernet. At this price, it’s an afford- rant fruit in this polished Cabernet, along with a berry, black cherry and cassis fruit in this wine. able quaffer for parties. Best Buy. —S.H.

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Oberon 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon and candied, with Life Saver flavors of cherries Newton 2006 Unfiltered Merlot 86 (Napa Valley); $22. Tastes one- and blackberries. Lots of acidity, too. Pretty stan- 92 (Napa Valley); $60. Soft, slightly hot dimensional and fruity, like cherries and black- dard, but the price is okay. —S.H. and peppery in alcohol, but very dry, this Merlot berries baked into a pie. Toasty oak adds vanilla shows intense flavors of cherry marmalade, black- and caramel sweetness. Ultimately, a good, every- Hilltown 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- berry essence, dark chocolate and cedar. It’s a day Cab. —S.H. 83 gnon (Monterey County); $7. rich wine to drink with grilled steak. The tannins Pretty standard Cabernet, dry and thin, with will balance out the meaty richness. —S.H. Joel Gott 2008 815 Cabernet blackberry and prune flavors. Still, it’s okay for 85 Sauvignon (California); $18. Here’s the price. —S.H. Folkway 2007 Bien Nacido Vine- a common, fruity Cabernet for everyday drinking. 90 yard Merlot (Santa Maria Valley); It’s dryish and tart, with blackberry jam, plum Vinum 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon $36. This is a pretty nice wine. It’s made in a and mocha flavors. Drink now. —S.H. 83 (California); $12. Raw in texture, this lighter style than from warmer regions, and is common Cabernet will do in a pinch. It has good silky, absolutely dry and crisp in acids. The Tetra 2006 Red Wine (Napa Val- blackberry flavors, with a touch of oak. —S.H. cherry, berry and currant flavors are perfectly 85 ley); $20. Soft, simple and dry. It’s a integrated with the oak. Drink this elegantly con- Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend with Parkers Estate 2009 Old Vine structed, food-friendly wine now. —S.H. ripe blackberry and currant flavors. Good wine 81 Street Cabernet Sauvignon for everyday fare. —S.H. (Sonoma County); $20. Overripe and Porty, Broadway Vineyards 2008 Merlot with raisiny flavors, and also very sharp, almost 89 (Carneros); $35. This rich, ripe Merlot Ancient Peaks 2008 Cabernet sour in acidity. —S.H. offers lots of smooth flavor. Grown on the 84 Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $16. A Sonoma side of Carneros, the wine is dry and soft nice Cabernet to drink now, soft and lush in fruit. Q 2008 Discovery Cabernet Sauvi- in tannins, marked by black cherry, blueberry, The blackberry, cherry, currant and mocha fla- 80 gnon (Alexander Valley); $11. toast and vanilla flavors. —S.H. vors have a spicy, peppery edge. —S.H. Barely acceptable. Dry, harsh and vegetal. —S.H. Hawkstone 2008 Barney’s Her- Coastline 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- 88 itage Cuvée Merlot (Napa Valley); 84 gnon (Paso Robles); $10. Bone dry, MERLOT $29. A fine, complex Merlot to drink now with a but sharp and harsh in texture, with some minty great steak or chop. It’s dry and tannic, with pol- flavors next to the black cherries. Okay for an Amuse Bouche 2008 Red Wine ished cherry, red currant, licorice, teriyaki beef everyday sipper with casual foods. —S.H. 95 (Napa Valley); $200. One sip is all it and cedar flavors. Give it a brief decant. —S.H. takes to understand that this is a vital, impressive I’M 2009 Deep Cabernet and possibly profound wine. A blend of 96% Matanzas Creek 2007 Journey 84 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $15. Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, it displays the 87 (Sonoma County); $135. This is a Heavy and soft. Plenty of jammy cherry and rasp- voluptuous richness of a Heidi Barrett wine, but tough, tannic and difficult wine to enjoy or evalu- berry flavor, but rather inert. Drink now. —S.H. also shows a firmness of character and a struc- ate now. It’s full-bodied and dry, with good black- tural dryness that elevate it. Exceptionally flavor- berry and currant flavors, and is well constructed. Spellbound 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- ful in blackberries and cherries, it has tantalizing But it’s very astringent; cellar it and see what hap- 84 gnon (California); $15. Sharp and hints of herbs, olive tapenade and, of course, pens. Try after 2013. —S.H. cutting in acidity, with jammy, tutti-fruity black- intensely fine oak. Drink now–2016. —S.H. berry and cherry flavors, this Cab is totally dry. Sebastiani 2007 Merlot (Sonoma It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. Trefethen 2007 Merlot (Oak 87 County); $17. A pretty, polished Mer- 93 Knoll); $35. Easily one of the best lot, medium bodied and dry, for drinking now. Tin Barn 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Napa Valley Merlots out there. The cool vintage Shows cherry, blackberry and currant flavors, 84 gnon (Sonoma County); $29. Rus- and southerly valley origins have played a role in with a kiss of smoky oak, and feels smooth tic and sharp, with an acidic bite to the black giving a firm, dry structure to the cherry, currant, through the finish. —S.H. currant and raisin flavors. Yet it’s dry and refined olive, mushu plum sauce and herb flavors. A in tannins. Drink now. —S.H. quality wine, distinctive and complex, and for the Ancient Peaks 2008 Merlot (Paso price, a relative value. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 86 Robles); $16. A little sharp and light in Tin Barn 2007 Red Wine (Napa body, but nicely dry, with complex berry, currant, 84 Valley); $34. A bit overripe, with a dry Merryvale 2007 Merlot (Oak tobacco and spice flavors. At this price, it’s a very Port-like, acidic taste. The blackberries veer past 92 Knoll); $48. A dry, classy Merlot that nice wine with some real elegance and sophistica- currants into raisins. Feels hot, too, although the will develop bottle complexity for a few years. tion. —S.H. official alcohol is only 14.7%. Drink now. —S.H. There are beautiful tannins on this well-made wine; if you drink it now, decant to let it breathe, Elements by Artesa 2007 Ele- Happy Camper 2009 Cabernet soften and allow the cherry, red currant, dried 86 ments by Artesa Merlot (Napa 83 Sauvignon (California); $9. Sweet herb and oak flavors to emerge. —S.H. County/Sonoma County); $20. An everyday

WineMag.com | 1 5 BUYING I GUIDE

Merlot, soft and attractive in cherry, blackberry sensational, offering broad, exotic fruit flavors, smoked meat flavors, sprinkled with cocoa pow- and liqueur flavors. It’s dry and sweetly tannic, a pinpointed with exotic spices, and exquisitely der and cinnamon. Delicious. —S.H. wine to enjoy now. —S.H. highlighted with French oak. Truly fine, this small-production wine should age over the next Freestone 2008 Pastorale Vineyard Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Merlot 6–8 years. —S.H. 93 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $100. 86 (California); $8. Dry, smooth and sur- Another terrific wine from this vineyard, following prisingly rich for the price. Shows pleasantly spicy Goldeneye 2007 The Narrows the superb ’07. May be a bit less flamboyant, but cherry, bacon and herb flavors, with a silk and 96 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson with better structure, and equally ageable. Dry satin texture. Great value in an everyday Merlot. Valley); $75. This is a big Pinot Noir, dark and and full bodied and fairly tannic, it shows power- Best Buy. —S.H. full bodied and juicy in pomegranates, cherries, ful cherry and raspberry fruit, smoked meat, red plums and sautéed wild mushrooms, and the sautéed wild mushroom and sandalwood flavors, Coastline 2008 Merlot (Paso Rob- interplay of oak with fruit even yields richer notes liberally spiced. Drinkable now, and should 85 les); $10. A simple but likeable Merlot, of milk chocolate. It’s devastatingly good, but also develop through 2014, at least. —S.H. dry and tart, with pretty good flavors of cherries, too young and fresh now to show its best. With its licorice and smoky oak. Nothing complicated, just fine tannins and exquisite balance, this articulate Goldeneye 2007 Gowan Creek an easy-drinking red wine for roasts and grilled young wine should be best after 2013. —S.H. 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson meats. Best Buy. —S.H. Valley); $75. Dark and tannic, reflecting the Keller Estate 2007 Precioso Pinot vineyard’s location in the cooler, foggier north- Rutherford Ranch 2008 Merlot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $75. A daz- west, this Pinot Noir is dramatic in depth of fla- (Napa Valley); $18. 95 85 A little rough and zlingly good Pinot Noir. Hard to exaggerate the vor. With its core of blackberries, cherries, ready, with some uneven tannins and green fruit, precision of flavor and structure. Shows the mas- blueberries, cola and rhubarb, it’s tight and rigid but it’s got a nice, dry feeling, with enough cherry sively ripe character of the vintage, with a star- now, suggesting 5–6 years in the cellar. —S.H. and red currant flavors to satisfy. —S.H. burst of raspberries, cherries, cola, minerals and spices, while the acidity and tannins are just Gypsy Canyon 2008 Trois Pinot Happy Camper 2008 Merlot (Cali- about perfect. This crowd pleaser is just extraor- Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $95. Big, fornia); $9. Sharp and harsh in the 93 82 dinary now, and should develop in the bottle over extracted, exuberant, humongous—take your mouth, with sweet and sour cherry candy flavors. the next six years. —S.H. pick. Any way you describe it, this Pinot Noir is —S.H. front-loaded with massive berry, cherry, orange Fog Crest 2008 Estate Bottled rind, mushroom, salumi and sweet oak flavors. Vinum 2008 Merlot (California); Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); Yet it’s controlled by a firm structure of tannins $12. Smells, feels and tastes raw and 94 82 $45. A marvelous Pinot Noir to drink now and and crisp coastal acidity, and is totally dry. A great harsh, a common wine partially rescued by can- over the next 6–7 years. It feels so rich and elab- and interesting Pinot Noir that needs time. Best died berry flavors. —S.H. orate, with waves of raspberries, cherries, cola after 2013. Cellar Selection. —S.H. and oak, yet is tightly controlled by firm tannins PINOT NOIR and a great burst of citrusy acidity. Grows better Patz & Hall 2008 Burnside Vine- and better as it warms in the glass. —S.H. 93 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); Goldeneye 2007 Ten Degrees $70. Anyone who doesn’t love this Pinot just Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); Freestone 2008 Quarter Moon doesn’t understand California’s approach. It’s a 98 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma $100. This is a best barrel blend of Goldeneye’s 94 fantastically delicious wine, completely satisfying several vineyards. It takes its beautifully ripe fruit Coast); $100. This is a Pinot Noir meant to be in raspberry, cherry, persimmon, toast, spice and from Confluence and the tannins of The Narrows aged. No question about it, from the citrusy acids vanilla flavors, and balanced with bright, coastal to yield a dry, densely constructed and moder- to the sandy tannins to the somewhat awkward acidity. Just beautiful, and it grows better as it ately ageable wine of exceptionally high quality primary fruit flavors that desperately want to warms in the glass. Probably not an ager, but and appeal. Blackberries, blueberries, cherries resolve with the oak. Packed with raspberries and wonderful now and through 2013. —S.H. and exotic spices characterize the flavors of this cherries, the wine is completely dry and firm in tremendous wine, one of the best of the vintage minerals, and seems easily able to age for at least Talisman 2007 Wildcat Mountain out of the Anderson Valley. Only 222 cases were six years. Only 120 cases were produced. Cellar 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Los produced. —S.H. Selection. —S.H. Carneros); $45. There’s a feral quality to this wine, with its flavors of wild forest berries, red Goldeneye 2007 Confluence Vine- Fog Crest 2008 Laguna West Pinot currants, cola, spicy smoked meats, tangerine zest 97 yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); 93 Noir (Russian River Valley); $39. and sandalwood, and hints of pine cones, rose- $75. A spectacular Pinot, continuing a string of Here’s a beautiful Pinot Noir to drink now with mary and thyme. It’s big and dry and, although great vintages from this little vineyard. The year upscale fare, like steak, lamb chop or grilled ahi silky in the mouth, tannic. An impressive young 2007 gave California supernaturally rich but bal- tuna. It’s silky and dry and feels excellent in the Pinot Noir that should be cellared for 5–6 years, anced Pinot Noirs, and this is one of them. It’s mouth, with complex raspberry, cherry, cola and at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Talisman 2007 Gunsalus Vineyard beautiful and complex now, and should develop flavors. Should develop for up to six years in the 93 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); bottle nuance over the next six years. —S.H. bottle. —S.H. $36. A lovely Pinot Noir, dry and silky and rich, with complex flavors of raspberries, cherries, Dr. Taz 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Arista 2008 Toboni Vineyard Pinot Pepper cola, sandalwood and white pepper. Easy 92 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $35. Shows a 90 Noir (Russian River Valley); $56. to drink now for its sleekness and elegance. Only welcome return to form for this bottling, after a Good blackberry, cherry, cola and pomegranate 296 cases were produced but a single-vineyard few off years. The wine is wonderfully dry and flavors in this rich, dry wine, but it’s also tight in wine worth seeking out. —S.H. complex, offering nuanced flavors of cherries, tannins and brisk in acidity. Too hard and unsup- raspberries and cola, as well as the spicy, smoky ple for drinking now. Give it 4–5 years to change Arista 2008 Mononi Vineyard sandalwood of oak barrel aging. A sophisticated in the bottle. —S.H. 92 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); and elegant wine for drinking now. —S.H. $56. Lots of zesty acidity in this Pinot Noir, Arista 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian giving the pomegranate, rhubarb, red cherry and Foggy Bridge 2008 Bien Nacido 90 River Valley); $42. Although this isn’t licorice flavors a bright edge. The wine is very 91 Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Maria one of Arista’s single-vineyard bottlings, it’s right dry and complexly layered. Interesting now, if a Valley); $38. A lovely Pinot Noir, silky and dry, up there with them, offering rich flavors and a bit primary in fruit, and balanced enough to with crisp flavors of raspberries, cherries, Dr. lovely structure. It’s dry and silky, with brisk acid- develop additional nuances over the next six Pepper cola, dusty Indian spices and smoky san- ity backing raspberry, cherry and sandalwood fla- years. —S.H. dalwood. Lots of crunchy acidity gives it a citrusy vors, and an earthy hint of balsam-splashed bite. Now–2014. —S.H. beefsteak tomato. Drink now–2013. —S.H. Kanzler 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Big Basin 2008 Alfaro Family Vine- Coast); $48. This young, impetuous J. Lohr 2008 Fog’s Reach Pinot 92 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Pinot Noir needs time in the cellar to calm down. Noir (Arroyo Seco); $35. Shows true 90 91 Mountains); $42. A beautiful, young and It’s all about fresh acidity of the citrus kind and cool-climate varietal character in the aromas and firmly tannic Pinot Noir that should improve in ripe, jammy cherry and raspberry fruit, not to flavors of cherries, cola, pomegranates and the bottle. It’s fully dry and fine in acidity, with mention sweet, unintegrated oak. Give it a good rhubarb pie, with complicating notes from expressive flavors of black and red cherries, cola, four years. —S.H. charred oak barrels. Very good, mouthfilling and beef jerky, crushed pepper and sweet, smoky san- dry, with brisk acidity. Should develop in the bot- dalwood. Very nice now with a good steak, and Keller Estate 2007 La Cruz Vine- tle for a few years. —S.H. ought to show development over the next 5–7 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); 92 years. —S.H. $44. Made in a light-bodied, lower-alcohol style, La Fenêtre 2008 Le Bon Climat Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria this Pinot feels silky and gentle in the mouth. It 91 Coup de Foudre 2008 Pinot Noir really delivers when it comes to flavor. Displays Valley); $59. La Fenetre scores with this lush, (Sta. Rita Hills); $95. There’s so much big, impressive notes of raspberries, cherries, Dr. forward Pinot Noir that offers enough flavor to 90 oak on this Pinot Noir, you might think you were Pepper cola, red licorice, beef jerky and smoky please almost anybody. It’s enormously rich in tasting a dessert made with vanilla cream and sandalwood that are complex and satisfying, and raspberry and cherry pie filling, roasted almond toasted meringue, like the crust on a baked that finish entirely dry. Drink now and over the granola, vanilla cream, buttered cinnamon toast Alaska. Under all that, loads of ripe raspberries next four years. —S.H. and sandalwood flavors that are so delicious, and cherries. Shows the excellent hallmarks of a they’re sweet, except that the wine finishes dry. fine Santa Rita Pinot Noir, but certainly is one of Mahoney 2007 Mahoney Ranch Great with lamb. Drink now. —S.H. the oakier versions. —S.H. 92 Pinot Noir (Carneros); $32. Terrific Pinot Noir—balanced, dry and complex, show- Mahoney 2007 Las Brisas Vine- Deovlet 2008 La Encantada Vine- ing exuberantly delicious fruit. The flavors of 91 yard Pinot Noir (Carneros); $32. 90 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); cherries, raspberries and mulberries are com- Quite a good Pinot, dry and complex. Although $45. Very big and rich and extracted, offering plexed with minerals and herbs, and the wine it’s pale in color and lightly silky in the mouth, it massive flavors of cherries and raspberries, feels clean and silky. Should develop bottle packs a punch, delivering waves of cherry, cran- enriched with caramelized oak. Very delicious, if nuance over the next 4–5 years. —S.H. berry, spice and sandalwood flavors. One quib- a little obvious. Pinot Noirs from this stretch of ble is that acidity is high, which calls for rich fare the southern Santa Rita Hills tend to age well, Regale Winery and Vineyards to pair it with, such as Ahi tuna, beef and lamb. gaining earthy complexities over the years. This 92 2008 O’Neel Vineyard Pinot Noir —S.H. one could hang in there for a long time. —S.H. (Russian River Valley); $48. The 2008 vin- tage was cool and resulted in lighter-bodied wines Arista 2008 Longbow Pinot Noir Hocus Pocus 2009 Thomson Vine- that also were lower in alcohol. That trend bene- 90 (Russian River Valley); $48. Crisp- 90 yard Pinot Noir (Carneros); $24. fited wines like this lovely one from Regale. It ness and dryness mark this elegant young Pinot Made in a lighter style, this Pinot comes from the has a transparent, silky texture, yet is very rich in Noir. It feels silky, almost delicate in the mouth, cooler Napa side of the Carneros. It’s light- to cherry pie filling, bacon and Indian spices. Feels but with powerful cherry, pomegranateand cola medium-bodied and dry, with a silky texture and

WineMag.com | 1 7 BUYING I GUIDE pleasant flavors of cherries, exotic dusty spices Arista 2008 La Cruz Vineyard Dolina 2009 Huber Vineyard Pinot and sandalwood. Elegant and moderate in alco- 89 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $54. A 88 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $28. Drink now hol, it’s a wine to drink now. —S.H. challenging wine. It’s rather strong and dry and for its easy to like, pie filling cherries and rasp- extracted now, lacking delicacy, and makes you berries. The mouthfeel is pure silk and satin, and J. Lohr 2009 Falcon’s Perch Pinot want to stick it in the cellar for a while. Yet there’s the tannins are rich and intricate. —S.H. 90 Noir (Monterey County); $17. A a certain hollowness that may limit ageability. If delicious Pinot Noir to drink now with upscale you drink it now, give it a good decant. —S.H. Expression 39 2007 Pinot Noir fare. It’s very fruity, offering a burst of raspberries 88 (Anderson Valley); $30. This is a big, and cherries, together with a coat of sweet, smoky Bishop’s Peak 2009 Pinot Noir extracted wine, but it shows enough sophistica- (San Luis Obispo County); $20. oak. But crisp acidity and smooth, silky tannins 89 tion to warrant a place on a fine table. With ripe This is one of the best Pinots in a screw top you’ll provide a balanced structure. —S.H. cherry, raspberry, red licorice and beef jerky fla- find. It shows elegant qualities, housing fresh, vors, it has good acidity for balance, and the finish young cherry, raspberry and oak flavors in a nice, Longoria 2008 Fe Ciega Vineyard is dry and spicy. —S.H. silky texture. Production was 2,328 cases. Edi- Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $48. A 90 tors’ Choice. —S.H. good Pinot Noir, dry and rich and complex, but Morgan 2008 Double L Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $48. the acidity is high. It makes for a sharp cut across Fogdog 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 88 Big, the berry and cherry flavors. Seems closer to the rich and heavy as usual, a full-bodied Pinot Noir 89 Coast); $35. One of the richer Pinots leaner 2006 than to the wonderfully rich ’07, but out there, just packed with ripe raspberries and with thick tannins and jammy cherry, berry, cur- will probably develop in the bottle over the next cherries, like the filling in a pie. Shows great, rant and oak flavors. Rather clumsy now, this 5–7 years. —S.H. cool-climate acidity, and the texture is as light and heroic Pinot Noir might do interesting things silky as can be. Defines the best of a drink-now over the years. —S.H. Old World 2006 Sterling Family style. —S.H. 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Athair 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian Valley); $32. An easy to drink Pinot for its dry- Kessler-Haak 2008 Clone 2A Pinot 87 River Valley); $36. This is a good ness, exceptionally low alcohol, and cleansing 89 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $29. Flavorful Pinot Noir for drinking now. It has uncompli- acidity. It has cherry, red plum, cola and herb fla- and dry, offering jammy cherries, black raspber- cated flavors of cherries, red plums and spices, vors, framed with sweet, smoky sandalwood. ries and oak, with an earthier hint of cola and and is dry and silky in the mouth. Acidity is high, Decant for a while. —S.H. mushrooms. It’s a silky, medium-bodied wine that giving it a tart bite throughout. —S.H. could develop bottle complexity with 5 or 6 years Regale Winery and Vineyards of age. —S.H. Big Basin 2008 Woodruff Family 90 2008 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains); $65. This young Pinot is rather La Fenêtre 2008 Los Alamos Vine- Mountains); $48. A good, dry mountain Pinot. fruity and heavy now, like the liquid version of a 89 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara It’s a little tough, with some uneven tannins and a raspberry and cherry pie. Yet it has vibrant acidity County); $39. This enormously rich, extracted bite of acidity, but rich in cherry, raspberry, cola and fine tannins, leading to the eternal question: Pinot Noir will please flavor-forward fans. It’s and sandalwood flavors. Might improve a little Will it age to something more refined? My bet is explosive in raspberries, cherries, cola, figs, after 2 or 3 years in the bottle. —S.H. yes. Give it 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. bacon, orange zest and other umami tastes, wrapped into a silky texture and brightened with Expression 39 2007 Annahala Talisman 2007 Hawk Hill Vineyard crisp acidity. Seems best now and for a year or Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson two. —S.H. 87 90 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); Valley); $50. Forward and candied in raspber- $46. A vigorous wine. In its youth it’s bright and ries and cherries, this is a tasty wine, dry and Valerie’s Vineyard 2008 One Acre jammy in raspberries, cherries and currants, with crisp in acidity, but it’s a bit direct and one- Pinot Noir (Carneros); $40. Lots of fine, silky tannins and citrusy acidity, like a 89 dimensional right now. Depends for its appeal on juicy flavor in this dry, jammy wine. It’s strong in squeeze of lime. There’s oak here, too. A bit dis- sheer, ripe fruitiness. With these wines, you never raspberries, cherries and sweet, smoky sandal- jointed now. Give it 3–4 years in the cellar to knit wood, with lovely Carneros acidity. Best now and know where they’ll go. —S.H. together. —S.H. for a few years for freshness and vivacity. —S.H. Lafond 2007 Lafond Vineyard Wrath 2008 Quasi Nulla Pinot Noir Arista 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 87 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir (Sta. 90 (Monterey); $38. This Pinot is pure 88 Coast); $32. With rich, spicy raspberry, Rita Hills); $50. Good and intricate, but too California in its ripe fruitiness. It’s explosive in cherry, tangerine zest and sweet cola flavors, oaky. Wood barrels dominate, with buttered cin- cherry and raspberry jam flavors, with sandal- wrapped into a silky texture, this is a pretty, pol- namon toast and caramelized vanilla cream dom- wood and dusty spice notes, and also displays ished Pinot to drink now. Zesty acidity makes for inating the cherries and raspberries. Even under crisp, cool-climate acidity. A delicious wine to a mouthwatering crispness. Good with ahi tuna that assault, the fine acidity and minerality of the drink now. —S.H. tartare. —S.H. shines through. Drink now. —S.H.

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Mahoney 2007 Pinot Noir tasty flavors of cherries and raspberries. It’s a Gnarly Head 2009 Pinot Noir (Cal- 87 (Carneros); $13. Not one to age, but silky, creamy Pinot Noir for drinking now. —S.H. 84 ifornia); $11. This rustic Pinot Noir to enjoy now for its fresh, clean fruitiness. It’s dry, gets the job done with a nice, silky texture and a silky and pure in raspberries, cherries and Dr. Taz 2008 Cuyama River Pinot Noir good bite of acidity to accompany the Pinot-like Pepper cola, with a rich overlay of oak. At this 86 (Santa Maria Valley); $28. A little cherry flavors. Drink now. —S.H. price, it’s a steal. —S.H. heavy and overripe. There’s a taste of prunes and chocolate in addition to the more classic cher- Vinum 2008 Pinot Noir (Califor- Patz & Hall 2008 Jenkins Ranch ries. Nicely dry and complex, but lacks vibrancy. 84 nia); $12. Here’s a sound, everyday 87 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $45. Drink now. —S.H. Pinot Noir. It’s a little raw and jammy, with pleas- Rather strong and direct now, with jammy rasp- ant cherry, leather and cola flavors and a hint of berry and cherry flavors. Although the wine is Beauregard 2008 Estate Grown oak. —S.H. dry, it tastes sweet in caramelly oak and fruity Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun- 85 Verve 2007 Pinot Noir (Russian extract as well as glycerine. It’s a rich, flashy wine, tains); $35. Tastes overwrought, with too much River Valley); $33. Overripe and but lacks some subtlety. —S.H. evident oak and too much extraction. The combi- 83 pruny, with jammy blackberry and molasses fla- nation makes for a jammy, sweet wine that’s vors. Too heavy and sharp for balance. —S.H. Q 2009 Discovery Pinot Noir (Edna slightly heavy. —S.H. Valley); $11. Racy and dry, this deli- 87 Fog Head 2008 Hillside Reserve cious Pinot Noir offers very pleasant flavors of Boekenoogen 2008 Pinot Noir Pinot Noir (Monterey County); cherries, currants and cola. It feels silky in the 82 85 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $34. $25. mouth, with zesty acidity for balance. A great Tastes as sweet and simple as a raspberry Rather acidic now, giving a sweet and sour taste and cherry cola drink, with crisp acidity and a value, but case production was only 1,000. Best to the cherry, raspberry and oak flavors. On the sugary finish. —S.H. Buy. —S.H. plus side is dryness and silkiness. —S.H. Regale Winery and Vineyards Davis Bynum 2008 Pinot Noir 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); SYRAH/SHIRAZ 87 (Russian River Valley); $35. A bit $50. Dark in color, soft in structure and rather 85 too oaky and extracted. Trades these winemaker Arkenstone 2007 Syrah (Howell heavy, this is a good Pinot Noir that doesn’t quite elaborations for the natural subtlety of the grapes. Mountain); $70. This is a huge, vel- rise beyond a drink-me-now polish. It has jammy 94 Rich in cherries and raspberries, but heavy- vety, dramatic Syrah. With stunning tannins and flavors of cherries, blackberries and mocha. handed. Drink now. —S.H. depth of fruit, it represents the best of Howell Drink now. —S.H. Mountain red from a great vintage. Bone dry, it Eagles Landing 2007 Pinot Noir floods the mouth with intense blackberry, black Beauregard 2008 Bald Mountain (Edna Valley); $38. currant, black cherry, smoked meat, licorice, VIneyard Pinot Noir (Ben Lomond 85 A standard issue 86 Pinot Noir. It’s dry and silky, showing decent mocha and peppery spice flavors that are deep Mountain); $50. A tough, gritty wine, with lots cherry and cola flavors and quite a bit of tart acid- and long. Really great now, and should develop in of stinging acidity and jammy cherry and rasp- the bottle over the next six years. —S.H. berry flavors. Nice and dry and silky, but a bit ity. Ready to drink now. —S.H. unbalanced. —S.H. Lafond 2008 SRH Pinot Noir (Sta. Austin Hope 2009 Hope Family Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles); 85 Rita Hills); $27. Heavy, soft and oaky. 92 Estancia 2009 Pinnacles Ranches $42. This is a delicious wine. The blackberry and Gains points for richness of flavor, offering waves 86 Pinot Noir (Monterey County); cherry jam, chocolate, anise and pepper flavors of cherries and raspberries, but it’s top heavy in $16. Pretty good price for a sound Pinot Noir. have a pie filling richness, complete with the fruit, and the oak is too strong. —S.H. It’s dry and silky, with flavors of cherries, herbs smoky-sweet pastry crust. Yet it’s totally dry. Feels and spices. Decant before pouring. —S.H. fine and distinguished, if a little hot in alcohol. Verve 2007 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Drink now–2012. —S.H. Lincourt 2008 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 85 Coast); $28. A heavy, dense Pinot that, 86 Hills); $35. A little rough around the despite considerable cherry, raspberry, straw- La Fenêtre 2008 Alisos Vineyard edges, with some irregular tannins and a few berry and pomegranate fruit richness, feels a bit 92 Syrah (Santa Barbara County); green notes, but otherwise fine and dry. The silky inert on the palate. Drink now. —S.H. $36. Tastes young and drily tannic now, with an texture frames Life Saver cherry candy flavors. enormous core of blackberries and black cher- —S.H. Verve 2007 Pinot Noir (Carneros); ries. A complex wine to take note of. If you drink 85 $24. Light and thin in texture as well as it now, decant. Otherwise, give it 3–4 years to do Mossback 2008 Pinot Noir (Russ- flavor. Nice and dry, with pleasant strawberry and its thing. —S.H. 86 ian River Valley); $25. Oak domi- cranberry fruit and a touch of sweet oak. How- nates this wine, in the form of vanilla, caramel ever, it lacks substance and complexity for the Michael James Wines 2008 White and buttered toast. Under that are simple but price. Drink now. —S.H. 92 Hawk Vineyard Syrah (Santa Bar-

WineMag.com | 1 9 BUYING I GUIDE bara County); $38. The vineyard is one of the intricate tannins. Lacks some vital acidity for bal- in tannins, but nicely dry and crisp in acidity, with best sources of Syrah in the Central Coast, and ance, and so it doesn’t seem ageable, but a fancy rich, forward cherry, boysenberry, cranberry and Michael James’ bottling expresses its balance and wine for drinking now. —S.H. cola flavors, accented with a hint of toasty oak. An complexity. The wine is full bodied and softly tan- easy, elegant wine to drink now. —S.H. nic, with dry, spicy flavors of cherries, blueber- Piedrasassi 2003 Syrah (Califor- ries, currants and cedar. A beautiful wine to drink 91 nia); $36. Released at seven years of Keller Estate 2007 La Cruz Vine- now. —S.H. age, this Syrah is soft, tannic and dry. It has rich 88 yard Syrah (Sonoma Coast); $40. flavors of blackberries and blueberries, and Very dry and pretty tannic, this cool-climate Piedrasassi 2007 Rim Rock Syrah seems far younger than it is. It’s interesting and Syrah combines its blackberry and cherry fruit 92 (California); $46. Made in a jammy, complex, and grows in the glass. Could go for a with less ripe notes of herbs and even a touch of soft but enormously rich style, this Syrah is few more years. —S.H. asparagus. Intense umani flavors of salty, smoky almost like Port, except that it’s dry. You’ll want to bacon give it richness. Drink now. —S.H. sip it slowly, over time, to let it shape-shift in the Broadway Vineyards 2008 Syrah glass. It offers waves of cherry pie filling, black- 90 (Carneros); $35. This rich Syrah is a Stolpman 2008 Estate Syrah berry marmalade and cassis flavors, touched with pleasure to drink with lamb and beef dishes. It 88 (Santa Ynez Valley); $34. This is an sweetly smoked oak. Calls for very rich and elab- has an excellent structure, softly tannic and silky interesting wine for drinking now as an alterna- orate beef and lamb dishes. —S.H. in the mouth, with long, luscious black cherry, tive to a dry, full-bodied red, such as Merlot or blueberry, beef teriyaki, sandalwood and spice Cabernet. It’s spicy and ripe in red currant, Zaca Mesa 2007 Mesa Reserve flavors. Only 100 cases were produced. —S.H. licorice, smoked meat, violet and sandalwood fla- 92 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); $42. vors that are rich and complex. —S.H. Young and vigorous now, marked by tannins and Stolpman 2008 Originals Syrah dryness that mask the fruit, making the wine 90 (Santa Ynez Valley); $38. A rich, Arkenstone 2006 Syrah (Howell somewhat aloof. However, the fruit is huge. It’s extracted Syrah that treads the line between sim- 87 Mountain); $70. Wonderfully smooth ripe and succulent in blackberries and black ple lusciousness and complex authority. It’s softly in the mouth, all satin and velvet, and so dry and cherries, and you’ll find additional notes of tannic and low in acidity, with pie filling flavors of crisp, it makes your mouth water. Good flavors, smoked meat and black pepper for complexity. A cherries, raspberries and mocha. Earns extra too, suggesting freshly picked wild blackberries, wonderful Syrah that needs 3–5 years to blossom. points for sheer richness. Drink now. —S.H. anise and black pepper. There’s just a trace of Cellar Selection. —S.H. some unripe fruit, however, that turns vegetal. Stolpman 2008 Ruben’s Block Drink now. —S.H. Bella Victorian Vineyard 2007 The 90 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); $98. 91 Garage Syrah (California); $40. Extraordinarily rich, offering massive blackberry Boekenoogen 2008 Syrah (Santa The grapes come from Ventura County, which and cherry jam, red currant, licorice, balsam, bit- 87 Lucia Highlands); $36. This is a dry, lies between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles ter chocolate and red pepper flavors. It’s very tan- acidic, tannic and earthy Syrah. It has impres- along the coast. This is cool-climate territory, and nic, but seems overly soft, and probably best now, sively deep flavors of black and red cherries, it shows in the rich acidity and delicate structure so drink up. —S.H. bacon and sandalwood, and gets better as it that accompany this delicious wine. It’s potent in breathes in the glass. Not an ager, but give it a blackberry and black cherry fruit, with a spicy fin- Page Mill Winery 2007 Tazetta few hours in a nice . —S.H. ish. —S.H. 89 Vineyard Syrah (Livermore Val- ley); $24. Dark purple red with a great fruity Harrison Clarke 2007 Cuvée Char- Klinker Brick Winery 2008 Farrah nose full of blackberry, tart cherry and dark plum, 87 lotte Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); 91 Syrah Syrah (Lodi); $20. From a pro- this tiny-production out of Livermore Valley is $52. Superfruity and jammy, with massive rasp- ducer to watch in underrated Lodi, this intense, medium bodied with deep concentration and a berry, cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate fla- black cherry, bacon-fat and white peppery Syrah nice finish cradled in cardamom and earthy vors, accented with black pepper. The texture is has an almost peat-like, whisky aroma at first, bacon. —V.B. soft and voluptuous. This Syrah is a bit direct very inviting, which then leads into more bacon now, with its primary fruit and oak overlay, and and pepper that carries through on the palate, Big Basin 2007 Rattlesnake Rock it’s a little hot, with an official alcohol reading of balanced by extremely smooth tannins and an 88 Vineyard Syrah (Santa Cruz 15.5%. —S.H. unexpected elegance. A really cool Syrah to try Mountains); $54. Nice and ripely sweet in on its own that’ll go very nicely with meaty, win- fresh blackberry, cherry and oak flavors, this Jaffurs 2009 Syrah (Santa Barbara tery foods. —V.B. Syrah is made for drinking now. It’s dry and rich 87 County); $27. A good everyday Syrah. in tannins, with a soft, velvety mouthfeel. Shows It doesn’t show the richness of the single-vineyard Piedrasassi 2007 Mr. Smith Syrah interesting complications of smoked meats, pep- bottlings, but it’s nice and dry, with berry, cherry, 91 (California); $56. California Syrah per, cola and minerals. —S.H. grilled meat, pepper and oak flavors. —S.H. doesn’t get much richer than this. It explodes in blackberry and cherry jam, olive tapenade, dark Hocus Pocus 2008 Syrah (Santa Mahoney 2007 Syrah (Carneros); chocolate and bacon flavors, wrapped into firm, 88 Barbara County); $19. A little rugged 87 $18. This is soft, full-bodied and richly

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 tannic, with blackberry jam, beef jerky and spice squirts of lime juice were added. Otherwise, it’s with firm, juicy acidity. Neutral oak adds just a flavors. A little sweet and direct, but a nice wine bone dry and tannic, with blackberry and pepper touch of smoke. Drink now. —S.H. to drink with steak, chops, grilled chicken, even flavors. —S.H. Mexican food. —S.H. Bella Victorian Vineyard 2006 Santa Barbara Winery 2008 Syrah 88 Romeo Grenache (Santa Barbara Sobon Estate 2008 Syrah (Amador 85 (Santa Ynez Valley); $20. A prob- County); $39. This is a pleasant, easy-drinking 87 County); $14. Sobon’s Syrah is from lematic wine marked by excessive acidity that Grenache to enjoy now with a nice steak or lamb one of the winery’s oldest plantings, one that is makes it tart, almost sour, despite some good chop. It’s dry and silky, with the weight of Pinot organically farmed and lightly cropped. The blackberry and cherry flavors. The tannins are Noir, and flavors of cherries, red currants, cola, resulting wine, which includes small percentages soft, making the acidity taste unnatural. —S.H. sweet tobacco, leather and spices. —S.H. of Zinfandel (6%), the winery’s specialty, as well as Petite Sirah (2%) and Grenache (2%), is more Big Basin 2007 Mandala Syrah Sans Liege 2008 Pickpocket on the savory meat and cooked plums end of the 84 (Santa Cruz Mountains); $39. A lit- 88 Grenache (Paso Robles); $36. Made Syrah spectrum, with a silky texture. The wine tle unripe, with a vegetal, asparagus aroma that’s in that very ripe, high-alcohol Paso style, with falls a tad flat on the finish. —V.B. off-putting. Tastes better than it smells, turning dense, concentrated fruit and a lot of upfront smoothly dry and rich in tannins, with satisfying flash and flamboyance. Reminiscent of Saxum’s Stolpman 2008 Hilltops Syrah blackberry and beef teriyaki flavors. But the wines, it’s rich, unctuous and almost a food group (Santa Ynez Valley); $48. 87 Lots of unripeness shows up again in the finish. —S.H. of its own, with jammy flavors of cherries and people will like this wine, but it is a little hot in raspberries and their associated liqueurs. —S.H. high alcohol and excessively soft. The jammy Big Basin 2008 Mandala Syrah blackberry and cherry have a baked, raisiny edge. Stolpman 2008 Estate Grenache (California); $45. This is a heavy, soft Definitely made in a warm, ripe California style. 84 (Santa Ynez Valley); $34. Too hot, and one-dimensional Syrah. It’s all right for 85 Drink now. —S.H. with 15.6% alcohol, and it shows in the chile pep- everyday drinking, with pleasant blackberry, per heat. Also too soft, lacking structure. With cherry, bacon and spice flavors. —S.H. Big Basin 2008 Homestead Syrah the glycerine, it tastes like a sweet Starbucks (Monterey - Santa Cruz); $33. 86 A Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Shiraz drink with raspberry, mocha, vanilla and cinna- good, dry and flavorful Syrah, with lush black- mon flavors. —S.H. (California); $8. Pale in color, thin in berry, cherry and oak flavors. It’s a harsh in the 84 flavor, with herb, pepper, tobacco and sour black mouth, with some firm tannins, but a nice, fruity cherry candy flavors. But it’s a pretty good party sipper to enjoy now. —S.H. PETITE SIRAH wine for the price. —S.H. Tin Barn 2006 Coryelle Fields Spellbound 2008 Petite Sirah (Cal- Big Basin 2008 Fairview Road Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Coast); ifornia); $15. Tastes almost like an 86 Ranch Syrah (Santa Lucia High- 87 $25. Lots of oak on this five-year-old Syrah. Too 83 Aussie Shiraz, a big, jammy but drily acidic wine lands); $39. Sound and dry, but heavy and dull, much, in fact, although it may be that the cherry- that explodes in blackberry, cherry and pepper berry fruit is simply dropping out. Either way, it’s and not quite ripe. There’s a vegetal component flavors. Robust and fun, a great wine to serve a fairly simple wine, dry and tart and spicy. Drink to the blackberries and oak. —S.H. with barbecue or rich meat stews. —S.H. now. —S.H. GRENACHE Vinum 2008 Petite Sirah (Califor- Zaca Mesa 2007 Syrah (Santa 85 nia); $12. Here’s a soft, sweet, jammy 86 Ynez Valley); $24. A bit more rugged wine to drink with barbecue and rich meat stews. and rustic than Zaca Mesa’s more expensive ’07 Austin Hope 2009 Hope Family It’s rich in tannins, with somewhat sweet black- , and also somewhat less ripe. But it’s a dry, 92 Vineyard Grenache (Paso Robles); berry, cherry, mocha and spice flavors. —S.H. rich and smoothly textured wine, good for drink- $42. The Hope winery has produced one of the ing now. —S.H. best Grenaches of the vintage. Avoids the com- Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Petite mon pitfalls of this tricky variety to give a bone 84 Sirah (California); $8. Pretty good for Big Basin 2007 Coastview Vine- dry, softly tannic wine that’s rich in black cherry, the price. It’s dry, tannic and tart, with flavors of 85 yard Syrah (Monterey); $48. prosciutto and black pepper flavors. The texture chocolate-covered raisins, blackberry Lifesaver There’s a vegetal note that drags on the other- is so silky, you could substitute this for Pinot Noir. candy and toast. Production was 5,000 cases. Best wise rich blackberry, roasted meat and pepper —S.H. Buy. —S.H. flavors. It’s also quite soft, lacking some vibrancy. A sound, rustic wine for drinking now. —S.H. Standing Sun 2009 Camp Four 89 Vineyard Grenache (Santa Bar- Lafond 2008 SRH Syrah (Sta. Rita bara County); $28. A good Grenache from the 85 Hills); $23. Too acidic for real enjoy- standpoint of a dry red wine. The wine is extraor- Stolpman 2009 La Coppa San- ment, with a bite of citrusy sharpness, as if a few dinarily rich in cherry fruit, and is nicely silky, 88 giovese (Santa Ynez Valley); $22.

WineMag.com | 2 1 BUYING I GUIDE

One of the better California Sangioveses out heat from alcohol, this wine also has a rich core of spicy, with flavors of fresh, briary blackberries there. It has a delicately silky texture and is very ripe cherries. It’s very strong and powerful, not a and cherries, and a long aftertaste. —S.H. dry, with the acidity the variety always packs Zinfandel that’s shy or apologizes for its brash- behind the cherry flavors. A lovely wine whose ness. But that’s the essence of Rockpile. Drink Giarusso 2008 Estate Bottled Zin- tannins will play well with a grilled steak. —S.H. this sturdy wine now, and the ideal food pairing is 86 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $20. A barbecue. —S.H. bit too strong in Porty, sugary raisins, but not too Stolpman 2007 Estate Sangiovese much, so unless you’re sensitive to this, it is a 88 (Santa Ynez Valley); $36. At more Joel Gott 2008 Zinfandel (Califor- pretty nice Zin. Shows plenty of spicy Dry Creek than three years of age, this Sangiovese is still 88 nia); $17. A great Zinfandel for the character. —S.H. fresh and vibrant in jammy cherry and black rasp- price. It’s dry and elegant, with a mouthfeel berry fruit. It’s dry and brisk in acidity. It’s a good somewhere between Pinot Noir and Merlot. Peter Franus 2008 Brandlin Vine- wine, if a little simple, and will pair well with Really balanced, with soft tannins and acids fram- yard Zinfandel (Mount Veeder); most beef dishes, especially prepared with mush- ing oak-tinged berry and spice flavors. With 86 $35. Shows a mountain toughness of tannins rooms. —S.H. 30,000 cases produced, it should be easy to find. with unevenly ripened fruit that gives the wine a Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Bacio Divino 2007 Pazzo San- sweet and sour taste. Intense blackberries and cherries coexist with greener flavors of mint, giovese (Napa Valley); $21. Sharp, Old World 2005 Laughlin Vine- 84 along with heat from high alcohol. Drink now. zingy acidity marks this dry red wine. It’s 88 yard Zinfandel (Russian River Val- medium-bodied and silky, like a Pinot Noir, with ley); $28. Starting to lose its fruit and show a —S.H. rich cherry and oak flavors. Drink now. —S.H. rich, dried berry and chocolate note. But the high alcohol is coming through. Feels soft and gener- Sebastiani 2007 Zinfandel ous, with Porty flavors of black currants that fin- 86 (Sonoma County); $15. A fairly stan- ZINFANDEL ish a little sweet. Good with short ribs, beef stews dard Zin that plays it right down the middle. It’s and barbecue. —S.H. dry, clean and spicy, with wild berry and tobacco Carol Shelton 2006 Bacchus Lau- flavors wrapped into smooth tannins. Drink now. 91 reate Reserve Zinfandel (Dry Peachy Canyon 2008 Westside —S.H. Creek Valley); $52. With massive fruit and 87 Zinfandel (Paso Robles); $19. Tastes power, this low production (300 case) Zinfandel like there’s some residual sugar in this sweet Zin. Sebastiani 2008 Zinfandel (Dry will make lovers of the Shelton style exult, while It’s almost a , like a raspberry and 86 Creek Valley); $24. Lots to like about others might find it lacking elegance. But there’s cherry pie, with a sweet berry liqueur finish. The this Zin. It’s dry, smooth in tannins and fine in no doubting the potency of the wild berry, alcohol is 15.2%. —S.H. acidity, and shows the briary, brambly, wild berry licorice, cola, cedar and spice flavors, which earn notes of its origin. It’s a little thin in flavor and this wine its high score. —S.H. Peachy Canyon 2008 The Vortex depth, especially at this price. Still, it’s a very nice 87 Zinfandel (Paso Robles); $36. Zinfandel. —S.H. Carol Shelton 2007 Karma Zin Rue Fruity and soft, this Zinfandel has flavors of rasp- 91 Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel berry and cherry pie filling, raspberry liqueur, Tin Barn 2008 Gilsson Vineyard (Russian River Valley); $33. Lusty, full- bod- chocolate and spices. It’s very high in alcohol, and 86 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley); ied, powerful, classic Sonoma Zinfandel. Swamps hot, with a Porty sweetness. —S.H. $27. Oak gives this wine a caramel-like richness, the palate with complex flavors of wild forest while the underlying fruit is jammy and spicy in berries, red currants, licorice, beef jerky, cola, Peachy Canyon 2008 Especiale cherries and raspberries. The result is a some- dusty Indian spice and cedar flavors, wrapped into Zinfandel (Paso Robles); $40. Made 87 what candied Zin. Drink it now. —S.H. firm tannins. Really textbook Zin, dry, lively and in a high-alcohol, extracted style, this Zin has wild distinctive. Drink now-2013. —S.H. berry, chocolate, licorice and liqueur flavors that Mueller 2007 Old Vine Zinfandel veer into currants and raisins. It’s hot, peppery, (Russian River Valley); $29. A Del Carlo Winery 2007 Old Vine glyceriney sweet and technically dry. —S.H. 85 90 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $32. robust, muscular Zinfandel with bigtime jammy A rich, complex Zinfandel, showing the rustic Peachy Canyon 2008 Mustang blackberries, cherries and raspberries that have a mouthfeel sometimes found in Dry Creek reds. 87 Springs Zinfandel (Paso Robles); freshly picked briary taste, and plenty of brisk, The tannins are strong and jagged, and the berry $36. A bit hot in high alcohol, with a chili pepper fruity acidity. Good for drinking now. —S.H. and cherry flavors have a wild, briary taste. But bite behind the enormously ripe raspberry and the finish is bone dry, and the wine grows more cherry jam, chocolate, beef jerky and pepper Plungerhead 2008 Old Vine Zin- interesting as it breathes in the glass. —S.H. spice flavors. Drink now. —S.H. 85 fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $20. This is a dry, hot, rustic Zinfandel, with a burn of alco- Carol Shelton 2007 Rocky Reserve Valley of the Moon 2008 Zinfan- hol. But it’s rich in cherry and berry, currant, 89 Florence Vineyard Zinfandel 87 del (Sonoma County); $16. This is a licorice, smoked meat and pepper spice flavors. (Rockpile); $33. Marked by dryness and some sound, pleasurable Zin to drink now. It’s dry and Has lots of popular appeal. —S.H.

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Rodney Strong 2008 Knotty Vines Pinot Noir and Merlot, either of which it can sub- fruit and a long, spicy finish. Made from 85 Zinfandel (Northern Sonoma); stitute for. Drink now. —S.H. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it shows cher- $19. Dry and earthy, with somewhat thin black- ries and blackberries, with hints of violets and berry, currant, raisin, tobacco and black pepper Ahlgren 2005 Bates’ Ranch Caber- spices, brightened with zesty acidity. —S.H. flavors. A sound everyday Zin. —S.H. 89 net Franc (Santa Cruz Mountains); $28. This Cab Franc is considerably lighter in 3CV 2009 BANK (Happy Canyon Peachy Canyon 2008 Incredible body than a Cabernet Sauvignon. Its silky texture 87 of Santa Barbara); $24. Dry, tannic 84 Red Zinfandel (Paso Robles); $12. frames red cherry, red currant, red licorice, cola and jammy, this Bordeaux blend contains a splash Tastes overtly sweet and simple, like a raspberry and sandalwood flavors that finish very dry. It’s a of Syrah. It’s strong and flavorful in blackberries, and cherry honey granola bar, with roasted lovely wine of some charm, but give it a decant cherries and raspberries, with a rich coating of almonds and spices. Production was 31,000 cases. before serving. —S.H. sweet, smoky oak. —S.H. —S.H. Dragonette 2007 MJM (Califor- Jax 2008 Taureau Y3 (Napa Val- Tamás Estates 2008 Zinfandel 89 nia); $50. You might want to lay this 87 ley); $20. This blend is a nice wine to 84 (Central Coast); $10. Lots of zippy Syrah-based Rhône wine down for a year or two. drink now. It’s soft and fruity, with delicious black acidity in this dry, jammy Zin. It may be too sharp Tasted in the early fall of 2010, it’s sharp and cherry, mocha, vanilla, anise and cinnamon spice for some people, despite the cherry fruit, beef fresh-fruity, which gives the cherry, raspberry and flavors. —S.H. jerky and spice flavors. —S.H. cocoa a jammy taste. The grapes come from Paso Robles and Santa Barbara County. —S.H. Standing Sun 2008 Syrah- Glen Ellen 2008 Proprietor’s Grenache (Santa Barbara County); Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel (Cali- Alexander Valley Vineyards 2007 87 82 $28. Lots of acidity in this dry Rhône blend— fornia); $10. Thin and vegetal, with sweet and Wetzel Family Estate Cabernet 88 maybe too much. It has the cut of a raw lemon. sour berry flavors. But it’s dry and clean. This Franc (Alexander Valley); $21. The alcohol is But the cherriy, raspberry and cola flavors are would suffice for a big party. —S.H. nice and modest on this dry wine, and it has a very rich. —S.H. pleasantly soft feeling as you sip it. Then there are the cherry and herb flavors that are complex and Cerro Prieto 2007 Paso Bordo OTHER RED WINES appealing. It’s a lovely wine to drink now. —S.H. 85 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Paso Robles); $39. Soft and Port-like, with raisiny Peter Franus 2007 Red Wine (Red Conn Creek 2008 Herrick Red blackberry and chocolate flavors. Could even Hills Lake County); $28. With deli- (Napa Valley); $18. Lots of pleasure 92 88 have some residual sugar. The alcohol level is cious texture and concentration, this Lake in this dry, classically structured wine. It’s rich 15.7%, and you can feel heat in the finish. Drink County blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourve- and forward in juicy blackberries and cherries, now with tri-tip beef. —S.H. dre from the 3,000-foot-high Fore Family Vine- with a milk chocolaty richness but also a dried yard is intensely good, a deep reddish-purple herb earthiness that grounds it. Good price for a Liberty School 2008 Cuvée (Cen- blueberry-tinged infusion of earth and clove spice wine of this class. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. tral Coast); $12. with dry, tight tannins and even a little lavender 85 A smooth, crisp that’ll linger. This one’ll age, but is so convinc- Mahoney 2007 Las Brisas Vine- Syrah-based Rhône blend, and a good value in a ingly reminiscent of the Northern Rhône right 88 yard (Carneros); dry, full-bodied red wine. It has strong flavors of now, it’ll be hard to wait. —V.B. $24. This dry, fairly acidic wine has a full-bodied berries and cherries that veer into raisins, but not texture and strong flavors of wild berries and too much. —S.H. Sans Liege 2008 The Offering cherries, tobacco, dark chocolate and spices. It’s 91 (Santa Barbara County); $25. This an interesting, complex wine to try as a switch Sebastiani 2007 (Sonoma is a Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre blend, with from Merlot or even a spicy Zinfandel. —S.H. 85 Valley); $26. A tough, gritty wine, with a trace of . It’s a big, rich, voluptuous hard tannins and acidity framing blackberry and wine, dynamic in berries and vanilla cream from Old World 2005 Dei Du Rocchi black currant flavors. It’s fully dry, but has the oak, and the acidity must come from that 2% of 88 Ranch Fog Line (Sonoma Coast); rustic feeling that Barbera usually shows. —S.H. Viognier. So fruity, it’s almost sweet, except that it $25. This Cabernet-Syrah blend is made in a finishes with a dry flourish. Only 960 cases were lighter, more acidic and earthier style than most Hahn 2009 G-S-M (Central Coast); produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. red wines these days. With only 13.9% alcohol, it 84 $12. Soft and gritty around the edges, shows crisp flavors of dried cherries, tobacco, with strong flavors of raspberry and cherry jam. It Stolpman 2008 La Croce (Santa black pepper and sandalwood. Needs a good even tastes a little sugary, although it’s probably 90 Ynez Valley); $66. A rich, dramatic decant. —S.H. technically dry. —S.H. and impressive wine. With vital acidity and dry- ness, it has complex layers of ripe cherries, red Standing Sun 2009 GSM (Santa Elements by Artesa 2007 Red licorice, cranberries, pomegranates, mocha and 88 Barbara County); $28. Here’s a dry, 84 Wine (Napa County / Sonoma cinnamon. Falls somewhere in texture between crisp southern Rhône blend with plenty of ripe County); $20. This is a good, somewhat rustic

WineMag.com | 2 3 BUYING I GUIDE wine to drink now. It’s full bodied and dry, with adds the necessary grounding to this complex Shows how exceptional winemaking can result in cherry-berry, tobacco and spice flavors. —S.H. wine. Drink now–2013, but not too cold. —S.H. exceptional wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

Keller Estate 2007 La Cruz Vine- Expression 38 2008 Gap’s Crown CALIFORNIA 93 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); 91 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma $36. A few years in the bottle are beginning to Coast); $38. A modern style coastal Chardon- WHITE WINES age this charming Chardonnay, although its brisk nay, brimming with acidity and starring major acidity and minerality remain. The pear, guava, league pineapple, tangerine, Asian pear, buttered CHARDONNAY nectarine and tangerine flavors are just starting to toast and honey vanilla flavors. Very rich and pick up a dried fruit character. Complex and flamboyant. Calls for a rich shellfish dish in a Keller Estate 2007 Precioso savory, it’s a very fine wine to drink now. —S.H. cream sauce. —S.H. 95 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $75. An extraordinary Chardonnay whose complicated Merryvale 2008 Silhouette Freestone 2008 Chardonnay richness is balanced with tight acidity and a firm 93 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $55. 91 (Sonoma Coast); $55. What’s so nice grounding of stony minerals. Brings to mind a Silhouette is Merryvale’s small-production best about this Chardonnay is the way the dryness, great Chablis, with its zesty tang followed by of barrels blend from the winery’s various vine- acidity and minerality combine with tropical fruit elaborate layers of tropical fruits and pears. yards. The ’08 is a success, showing brisk acidity to make for a splendid, Chablis-style California Utterly delicious, wildly appealing, a wine that and new oak and yeast flavors and a creamy tex- wine. It’s a connoisseur’s Chardonnay, requiring will develop bottle interest over the next six years. ture framing ripe pineapple, pear and mineral some understanding of structure. Don’t drink it Only 97 cases were produced. —S.H. flavors. It’s an elegant wine that shouldn’t be too cold; could even stand a brief decant at room served too cold. —S.H. temperature. —S.H. Two Sisters 2008 Courtney’s Vine- 95 yard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills); Capture 2009 Ma Vie Carol Buehler 2009 Reserve Chardonnay Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); (Russian River Valley); $20. This is $55. Chardonnay doesn’t get much riper or 92 90 $42. The best Alexander Valley Chardonnays, the kind of Chardonnay that divides wine lovers richer than this. Dazzles with pear jam, pineapple such as this, show flamboyant tropical flavors. into enemy camps. Old World purists will criti- custard, crème brûlée, buttered toast and cinna- Capture’s ’09 shows ripe, extravagant pineapple, cize the candied richness. New World fans will mon spice flavors, and a firm grounding of miner- mango, papaya, nectarine and lime fruit, with a love the toasted marshmallow, caramel corn and als. Calls for the richest possible foods, like grilled quality baked into a pastry dessert. It’s a buttered toast flavors that rest on a solid founda- lobster. Drink now. —S.H. big wine framed by fine acidity. The oak appliqué tion of pineapple and green apple fruit. —S.H. is just about perfect. —S.H. Foley 2008 T Anchor Ranch Expression 38 2008 Chardonnay Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills); $45. 93 Clos Pegase 2007 Hommage Mit- (Sonoma Coast); $23. Marked by A brilliant Chardonnay showing how well this 90 suko’s Vineyard Chardonnay zesty acidity and dryness, this Chard shows long region can ripen fruit while retaining brisk acid- 92 (Carneros); $40. A rich Chardonnay made in hangtime, ripe flavors of pineapples, lemons and ity. Oak barrels add an exotic touch of clove to the the popular style. It’s almost sweet in pineapple sweet green apples. Minerality grounds the fruit, underlying pineapple fruit flavors. Feels rich and jam, crème brûlée, buttered toast, honey and cin- making the wine savory and clean. Gets better as creamy, and aging on the lees provides a com- namon spice flavors, while that bright Carneros it warms in the glass, a very good sign. —S.H. plex touch of sourdough. Drink now. —S.H. acidity keeps it clean and lively. —S.H. Fogdog 2008 Chardonnay Foley 2008 Rancho Santa Rosa Kessler-Haak 2008 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $35. Marked by big, Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills); $40. 90 93 92 (Sta. Rita Hills); $29. This fancy, opu- sharp acidity, like biting into a lime, and clean, A beautiful Chardonnay, notable for its elegant lent Chardonnay is made in a certain Santa Rita linear flavors of limes, green apples and pineap- structure. Perfect acidity and just a hint of tan- style of high alcohol, which makes it enormously ples, this bone-dry Chardonnay badly needs food nins, much of it from oak barrels, provide the rich. It oozes pineapple, pear and lime jam fruit, to balance it out. Think of bacon-wrapped grilled framework for the pineapple and kiwi fruit fla- while new oak adds buttered toast flavors and the shrimp, or a spicy Ahi tuna tartare dish. —S.H. vors, enriched with notes of cream and buttered glycerine from 15.5% alcohol makes the wine toast. —S.H. even creamier and sweeter. This is an inaugural Isabel Mondavi 2009 Chardonnay vintage from the winery. —S.H. 90 (Carneros); $25. A very pleasant Freestone 2008 Pastorale Vine- Chardonnay that’s lifted above the ordinary by a 93 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); Vina Robles 2009 Chardonnay brisk, dry minerality. Orange, lemon and pear $100. The best thing about this Chardonnay is 92 (Monterey); $19. Just when this fruit stars, with a suggestion of toast and compli- the acidity. It’s brisk and clean, and gives a zesty Chard seems simple and sweet, the fruit is over- cated notes of anise, vanilla and cream. —S.H. finish to the extraordinarily rich pineapple, taken by acidity and minerality, taking the tan- papaya, lime and Meyer lemon flavors that are gerine, lime and mango flavors to the next level Joel Gott 2009 Unoaked Chardon- almost sweet, but aren’t. A firm scour of minerals and making the wine complex and fascinating. 90 nay (Monterey); $16. Believe me,

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 you won’t miss the oak barrel influence on this ing buttered toast, crème brûlée and pineapple fruit and honey. Could be more subtle, though. wine. It’s so good all by itself. Brightened with pie flavors. Very crisp coastal acidity provides a It’s all on the surface. —S.H. crisp Monterey acidity and totally dry, it’s rich in pleasant balance of tartness. Drink now. —S.H. pineapple, tangerine, Meyer lemon, lime, min- Girard 2009 Chardonnay (Russian eral and vanilla flavors that will satisfy your Lincourt 2009 Steel Chardonnay 87 River Valley); $22. Here’s an oaky, Chardonnay tooth. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 89 (Sta. Rita Hills); $18. Lincourt’s ripe Chardonnay for those who like these strong, grapes are so rich and well grown that they don’t direct hits. It’s powerful in tropical fruit, citrus, Ken Brown 2008 Nielson Vineyard even need oak to make a delicious Chardonnay. pear and green apple flavors, with a creamy over- 90 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); The wine is dry and crisp, with appealing flavors lay of buttery oak. Drink now. —S.H. $35. Produced from this famous cool-climate of pineapples, tangerines and Meyer lemons. The vineyard, the wine is zesty in acidity and dry, but savory creaminess seems to come from aging on La Fenêtre 2008 Los Alamos Vine- enormously rich and impressive in pineapple and the lees. What a great food wine. Editors’ 87 yard Chardonnay (Santa Barbara pear flavors, with a distinct minerality that makes Choice. —S.H. County); $35. Oak overpowers this wine, dom- it feel drier and earthier. It’s a strong wine, but inating with buttered toast and caramel flavors. subtle. Drink now, but not too cold. —S.H. Matanzas Creek 2008 Journey Underneath is pineapple and peach fruit and 89 Chardonnay (Sonoma County); zesty acidity. It would be nice to have the wine- Lincourt 2008 Chardonnay (Sta. $75. Fresh tropical fruit, peach and apricot fla- maker back off on the barrels and emphasize the Rita Hills); $27. 90 Rich and oaky, with vors star in this flashy young wine. Oak also plays underlying wine. —S.H. brisk acidity framing delicious flavors of pineap- a prominant role, giving buttered toast and ple custard, buttered toast and crème brûlée. caramel notes. And the texture is creamy and Lafond 2008 SRH Chardonnay Elegant and impressive for drinking now. —S.H. smooth. The overall impression is very rich and 87 (Sta. Rita Hills); $22. Drink this with powerful, but the wine could have more finesse. very rich foods, such as shellfish in a buttery Bishop’s Peak 2009 Chardonnay Drink now. —S.H. cream sauce. It’s a big, oaky, caramelly wine, with (Central Coast); $15. Searing acidity 89 ripe pineapples beneath the oak. A little soft, but marks this wine, which tastes like it has a lot of Morgan 2009 Metallico Un-Oaked smooth and silky. An elegant Chardonnay for Edna Valley fruit in the blend. It also shows Chardonnay (Monterey); $20. This drinking now. —S.H. bright, strong, long hangtime flavors of limes and 89 Chardonnay is so delicious in citrus, tropical fruit, pineapples. It’s actually quite a fine Chardonnay, peach and vanilla bean flavors, brightened with Liberty School 2008 Chardonnay dry and low in alcohol. A great value at this price. brisk acidity, that you hardly miss the absence of (Central Coast); $12. Good price for a Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 87 oak. —S.H. dry, crisp and flavor Chardonnay with some real Horse & Plow 2009 McFadden fancy character. Flatters the palate with opulent Wood Family Vineyards 2009 Para Farm Chardonnay (Mendocino); pineapple jam, pear, lemon and orange fruit fla- 89 Mas Amigas Chardonnay (Liver- vors, finished with rich oak. Best Buy. —S.H. $20. Horse & Plow sourced organic grapes to 89 more Valley); $22. This impressive Chardon- craft this excellent Chardonnay, giving it the luxe Lincourt 2008 Chardonnay (Santa treatment—handpicked, whole-cluster pressed, nay from a small Livermore Valley producer is Barbara County); $20. French oak barrel fermentation and aging nine on the austere side of Chardonnay, with notes of 87 Made in a dry, months sur lee—and it shows. The wine is pretty, just-ripe pear, tiny hints of wet stone, a nice, lean style, this Chard has plenty of elegance. It with a tropical bouquet that gives way to just nutty finish and enough body to go with a wealth has citrus, pear and mineral flavors, with a touch enough oak-driven vanilla. Will age nicely but is of foods. Good balance too. —V.B. of oak and bright, brisk, coastal acidity. —S.H. also ready to drink now. —V.B. Patz & Hall 2008 Zio Tony Ranch Patz & Hall 2008 Dutton Ranch La Fenêtre 2008 Sierra Madre 88 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- 89 Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa ley); $60. Made in a very ripe, very oaky man- ley); $39. A little obvious in its appeal to our lik- Maria Valley); $38. This Pinot Noir is so rich ner, this Chardonnay is extraordinarily rich now, ing for oak and ripe fruit. Who can criticize the in fruit and oak, it tastes like a melted dessert if not very subtle. It’s all about power. Buttered pineapples, citrons, tangerines and green apples, tart. Wows with raspberry and cherry jam, vanilla toast, caramel cream, pineapple marmalade, with their overlay of caramel and buttered toast? bean, bacon, buttered cinnamon toast and smoky lime, orange and spice flavors flood the mouth, Rich as it is, you find yourself wishing it were wood flavors, wrapped into a light, airy texture. snapping to an oaky finish. —S.H. more subtle and nuanced. Drink now. —S.H. Drink it now with a terrific steak. —S.H. Santa Barbara Winery 2008 Patz & Hall 2008 Hudson Vineyard La Fenêtre 2008 Bien Nacido Vine- 88 Reserve Chardonnay (Sta. Rita 87 Chardonnay (Carneros); $55. Rich 89 yard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Hills); $22. Very rich, ripe, oaky and delicious. as can be, but oak dominates, giving the wine Valley); $40. This is a very rich Chardonnay, Dazzles with waves of buttercream, buttered buttered toast and caramelized vanilla flavors, almost too elaborated and overworked. It’s toast, buttered popcorn and butter-drizzled and you’ll even find notes of buttered popcorn. tremendous in oak-infused fruit, with dominat- bananas, with plenty of underlying pineapple Although there’s lovely pineapple and citron fruit

WineMag.com | 2 5 BUYING I GUIDE and fine Carneros acidity, this Chardonnay tastes tired, with jammy tropical fruit flavors starting to buttered popcorn and mineral flavors. Could be a overly manipulated. —S.H. drop out. Still shows vibrant acidity, but the fresh little more complex. —S.H. fruit character, the most likeable part of such Q 2009 Discovery Chardonnay Chardonnays, is disappearing, replaced by more Coastline 2009 Chardonnay (Mon- 87 (Russian River Valley); $11. Packs herbal and vegetal notes. —S.H. 84 terey County); $10. Lots of Chard plenty of punch into an inexpensive, everyday fans will like the ripe pineapple and lime fruit, Chardonnay. With brisk, tangy acidity, it offers Guenoc 2009 Chardonnay (Lake creamy texture and oaky flavors of buttered toast rich, appealing flavors of pineapples, green 85 County); $14. From the Langtry and vanilla. It’s a little sweet, but Central Coast apples, vanilla and sweet, creamy butter. Best Estate in Guenoc, Lake County, this has very acidity helps to balance. —S.H. Buy. —S.H. intense pineapple on the nose and palate, and is rich and sweet on the finish. Pair it with spicy Elemants by Artesa 2009 Steven Kent 2007 Merrillie, EWV food or something briny from the sea. —V.B. 84 Chardonnay (Napa County / 87 Block 32220 Chardonnay (Liver- Sonoma County); $15. A simple Chardonnay, more Valley); $25. A big, lush Chardonnay Hahn 2007 SHL Estate Chardon- with pineapple, apple and mango fruit juice fla- from the Wente family’s Ernest Wente Vineyard, 85 nay (Santa Lucia Highlands); $25. vors, brightened with zesty acidity. —S.H. this is barrel fermented and aged on lees for a Nicely dry and crisp, with some good pineapple long 18 months in new American and French flavors enriched with oak. Loses points, however, Hahn 2009 Chardonnay (Santa oak. A successful layering of ripe apples, a tinge due to a certain vegetal character that’s com- 84 Lucia Highlands); $12. Direct and of pineapple and hearty bread with tons of tex- pounded by the fruit starting to fall out. —S.H. strong in pineapple and pear jam flavors, this ture and length made in an opulent California Chardonnay also has notes of vanilla and buttered style. —V.B. Jax 2009 Y3 Chardonnay (Napa toast. —S.H. 85 Valley); $19. Made in the modern style Arrow Creek 2009 Coastal Series of lots of ripe tropical fruit, green apple and Hilltown 2009 Chardonnay (Mon- 86 Chardonnay (California); $18. It’s creamy oak flavors, this Chardonnay is uplifted by 84 terey County); $7. Good value in a all here, the ripe tropical fruit, the smoky oak, bright, citrusy acidity. Drink it now. —S.H. dry, zesty Monterey Chardonnay. Marked by the buttered toast and vanilla and cream. Hits crisp, mouthwatering acidity, it offers simple fla- that Chardonnay sweet spot with pinpoint accu- Mossback 2009 Chardonnay vors of tropical fruits, buttercream and vanilla. racy. —S.H. 85 (Russian River Valley); $18. An —S.H. everyday Chardonnay with a creamy texture and Educated Guess 2008 Chardonnay oak-inspired buttered toast notes. The underlying Q 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma 86 (Napa Valley); $17. Ripe and oaky in fruit has pineapple and orange flavors. —S.H. 84 County); $12. Lots of ripe pineapple the modern style, with strong apricot, tangerine, jam and oak flavors on this sweet, creamy wine. pineapple and peach flavors and a buttery, Rutherford Ranch 2009 Chardon- Nothing complicated, but good enough to satisfy creamy texture. Offers lots of upfront Chardon- 85 nay (Napa Valley); $16. Made in an fans of the variety. —S.H. nay character. —S.H. oaky, creamy style to appeal to popular tastes, this Chardonnay has jammy pineapple flavors. It’s Spellbound 2009 Chardonnay Sebastiani 2009 Unoaked brisk in acidity and is somewhat simple, but the 84 (California); $15. Simple, soft and 86 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- price isn’t bad. —S.H. sweet, with buttered popcorn, buttered toast and ley); $18. Made without oak, although the wine sugared pineapple jam flavors. Nice acidity, has a tart leanness that would have benefited Santa Barbara Winery 2009 though, and a nice creamy texture. —S.H. from a little barrel exposure. Nonetheless, it’s dry 85 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara and crisp and minerally, with modest pineapple, County); $15. A pretty, polished and simple Vinum 2008 Chardonnay (Califor- Meyer lemon and flower flavors. —S.H. wine that shows the buttery creaminess, toast, 84 nia); $12. Sweet and appealing, this popcorn and pineapple jam flavors people like. simple Chard has candied pineapple and lemon Wente 2009 Morning Fog Easy to find, with more than 17,000 cases pro- cream flavors, accented with crisp acidity. —S.H. 86 Chardonnay (Livermore Valley); duced. —S.H. $14.99. Wente is well known for its Wente Bota Box 2009 Chardonnay (Cali- clone, a popular sight in many a California Sebastiani 2008 Chardonnay 83 fornia); $19/3 L. Tastes like a fruit Chardonnay vineyard. This flavorful example is 85 (Sonoma County); $13. A rich, oaky, juice blend of oranges, peaches and apricots, with compellingly rich and textured, yet modest in fruity Chardonnay with lots of tropical fruit fla- a kiss of oak flavor. Standard fare, this boxed wine alcohol, with a happy apple, melon taste and a vors. Pretty standard, but the price is pretty good is the equivalent of four regular bottles. —S.H. bit of an exotic lift on the finish, possibly from the for this style. —S.H. 2% Gewürztraminer that’s blended in. —V.B. Boekenoogen 2008 Chardonnay Wellington 2009 Chardonnay 82 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $34. Fog Crest 2007 Estate Chardonnay 85 (Sonoma Valley); $20. Creamy and There’s an unripe, vegetal taste that detracts from 85 (Russian River Valley); $45. Tastes polished, with good acidity and pleasant citrus, the wine’s otherwise fine qualities. It’s dry and

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 crisp and minerally, with pineapple fruit. But that Wente 2009 Louis Mel Sauvignon Eagles Landing 2008 Sauvignon asparagus edge is annoying. —S.H. 90 Blanc (Livermore Valley); $15. This 84 Blanc (Central Coast); $25. Creamy varietally correct Sauvignon Blanc is clean, crisp and a little unripe, with a vegetal edge to the cit- Broadway Vineyards 2009 and refreshing, with plenty of honey, pineapple rus and pear flavors. It’s dry, acidic and clean. 82 Chardonnay (Carneros); $24. Fruity and green apple, and yet has some meat on its Works for everyday fare. —S.H. sweet and cloying, with the flavor of pineapple bones, with a rich mouthfeel that belies its all- jam and buttered popcorn and a sprinkle of white stainless-steel aging. It also has just a touch (2%) Langtry 2009 Lillie Vineyard sugar for good measure. —S.H. of Sémillon. Best Buy. —V.B. 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Guenoc Valley); $20. Very light in color and, alas, pleasing fla- Broadway Vineyards 2008 3CV 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy vors, this 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Chardonnay (Carneros); $34. Feels Langtry Estate’s organically farmed Lillie VIne- 82 Canyon of Santa Barbara); $18. If soft and cloyingly sweet in pineapple jam and 87 yard begins with guava and coconut, very tropi- you like that bite of gooseberry and dry, green buttered popcorn flavors, and is beginning to be cal, but gives in too easily to a not quite ideal grass and hay flavors, this is for you. It’s dry and tired and old. Drink up. —S.H. level of sweetness and a finish that can only be tart in acidity, made richer with citrus fruit, white described, unhappily, as bitter. —V.B. flower and vanilla. Would be great with goat SAUVIGNON BLANC cheese. —S.H. Parkers Estate 2009 Tolleson High Corniche Sauvignon Blanc Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Sauvi- 84 Matanzas Creek 2009 Helena (Sonoma County); $20. A sound, everyday gnon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley); 93 Bench Sauvignon Blanc (Knights 87 Sauvignon Blanc. It has ripe citrus fruit flavors Valley); $38. Bone dry, and brightened with $15. Good, strong citrus fruit, wildflower and that are jammy sweet, with crisp acidity. —S.H. zesty acidity, this fabulous SB defines the cate- honey flavors in this wine, and powerful acidity gory. Accented with a touch of oak, it stars potent too, like a squirt of lime juice. Some barrel influ- Rutherford Ranch 2009 Sauvignon citrus and tropical fruit, green apple, white flower ence shows up in creamy vanilla. Would be nice 83 Blanc (Napa Valley); $15. Simple and mineral flavors, with a complexity that makes now as a cocktail sipper. —S.H. and direct, with sweet and sour flavors of lemon it easily worth the price. Gets better and better as and lime Lifesaver candy. Okay for big parties it warms in the glass. —S.H. Stolpman 2009 Estate Sauvignon where they’re not fussy. —S.H. 87 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley); $22. Arkenstone 2007 Sauvignon Blanc This is a strongly flavored wine with grapey fla- 92 (Howell Mountain); $45. An upscale vors of fresh pineapples, limes, lemons and PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO made in the white Bordeaux style. It vanilla. It has a tang taste of minerals that was partially aged in oak, on the lees, bringing a grounds it. As fruity as it is, it finishes fully dry. Navarro 2009 Pinot Gris (Anderson creamy, yeasty freshness to the citrus, tropical Good now with Asian-inspired fare. —S.H. 88 Valley); $19. This rich, sweetly fruity fruit and green grass flavors that are totally dry. and creamy wine is almost dessert-like. It has Brisk acidity makes for a clean scour. A brilliant Tin Barn 2009 Hi Vista Vineyard vibrant tropical fruit and peach flavors that taste wine to drink with everything from goat cheese 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Carneros); $18. like they were baked into a pie. But it’s also very appetizers through firm fleshed fish like halibut With zesty acidity and dry pineapple, lemon, lime acidic, and the finish is dry. Great as a cocktail to roast chicken. —S.H. and green grassy flavors, this is a nice white wine sipper; try with Thai and Vietnamese fare. —S.H. to drink for a cocktail with little appetizers rang- Dragonette 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Hahn 2009 Pinot Gris (Monterey); ing from puff pastries to egg rolls to smoked (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara); $12. Lots going on in this affordable 91 meats. —S.H. 87 $35. This barrel selection of wines shows how wine. It’s zesty in acidity, with a minerally bite to well Sauvignon Blanc does in Happy Canyon. the pineapple, green apple and pear jam fruit. Oberon 2009 Sauvignon Blanc The variety was already a star in Santa Ynez Val- Straddles the border between dry and honey (Napa Valley); $15. This is a dry, sim- ley, but growing it in a warmer region adds 85 sweet. Best Buy. —S.H. ple Sauvignon Blanc. It’s marked by crisp acidity ripeness and richness. It’s lush in citrus and hon- eysuckle, with crisp acidity and oak barrel influ- and zesty citrus fruit and green grass flavors. Horse & Plow 2009 Filigreen Farm ences. —S.H. Feels clean, vibrant and mouthwatering. —S.H. 86 Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley); $20. Good, dry and crisp, if a little simple, with apri- Matanzas Creek 2009 Sauvignon Peju 2009 Estate Bottled Sauvi- cot, citrus and vanilla flavors. There’s a touch of 90 Blanc (Sonoma County); $19. A 85 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley); $22. green unripeness that detracts, but it’s a pretty fine, bone-dry and minerally Sauvignon Blanc to This is one of those Sauvignons that has that nice wine. —S.H. enjoy with shellfish, grilled chicken or on its own grassy, gooseberry aroma and flavor that as an appetizer. A touch of oak adds richness to approaches ammonia, but stops just short in favor Hahn Estates 2008 SLH Estate the vibrant, acidic citrus fruit, lemongrass and of lemons and limes. It’s crisp and a little sweet. 85 Pinot Gris (Santa Lucia Highlands); green apple flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. —S.H. $20. A touch of unripeness compromises this

WineMag.com | 2 7 BUYING I GUIDE otherwise fine Pinot Noir, which shows pleasant acidity. Nice as a cocktail sipper, and will play Blanc (Livermore Valley); $20. An unoaked cola, raspberry and oak flavors. If you’re not fussy, well with Asian fare. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. marriage of Sémillon (55%) and Sauvignon Blanc it’s a good bottle, dry, silky and crisp. —S.H. (45%) from Steven Kent Winery’s new estate Standing Sun 2009 Terra Alta vineyard, this light golden-colored wine has flow- Coastline 2009 Pinot Grigio (Mon- 90 Vineyard Le Blanc (Santa Barbara ery aromas that give way to a lush minerality of 84 terey County); $10. Zesty Monterey County); $24. Made from Grenache Blanc and slate and stone, with good texture, lemony light- acidity makes this slightly sweet wine clean and Viognier, this pretty and enormously likeable ness and balance though not as lush a finish as of brisk. The flavors suggest sugared orange and white wine was barrel fermented. It has pleasant yet. Age another 1–3 years. —V.B. pineapple juice. —S.H. flavors of citrus fruits, raspberries, vanilla, white pepper, buttered toast and sandalwood. The fin- Carol Shelton 2008 Coquille Blanc Tamás Estates 2009 Pinot Grigio ish is clean and zesty. —S.H. 87 (Paso Robles); $30. Made in a sweet, 84 (Central Coast); $10. Gets the job candied style, with flavors of pineapples, man- done with this dry, crisp everyday sipper. Shows 3CV 2009 Viognier (Happy goes, roasted almond granola and vanilla. Could citrus, fig and apricot, with a minty spiciness. 89 Canyon of Santa Barbara); $18. almost serve as a dessert wine. Drink now. —S.H. Good for cocktails or with appetizers. —S.H. Shows the exotic side of Viognier, with crisp acid- ity and a dry minerality that gets the tastebuds Field Recordings 2008 Jurassic whistling. The lime, quince, apricot, white flower 87 Park (Santa Ynez OTHER WHITE WINES and woodspice flavors finish with the briskness Valley); $16. One of the few Chenin Blancs of a Sauvignon Blanc, only more opulent. —S.H. from Santa Ynez Valley, and a pretty one. Made Arrowood 2008 Special Select with a bit of oak, it’s dry and acidic, as the variety 94 Late Saralee’s Vineyards Gypsy Canyon NV Ancient Vine should be in California, with citrus, floral and White Riesling (Russian River Valley); 89 Angelica Debit (Sta. Rita Hills); mineral flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. $35/375 ml. A great success for this bottling. $130. A lovely dessert wine in almost every With extraordinarily high residual sugar, the wine respect. It’s crisp in acidity and has complex, Santa Barbara Winery 2009 is very sweet in wild honey, infused with the somewhat oxidized or Madeira-like flavors of 87 Lafond Vineyard Riesling (Sta. essence of oranges and apricots, folded into rich, oranges, tapioca and vanilla. Could be a little Rita Hills); $15. Delicious flavors of lemons, buttery custard, and sprinkled with vanilla sugar more focused and intense, but very fine, although limes, tangerines and honey in this wine, with and cinnamon. It’s all balanced with a squirt of it calls for a certain appreciation of this oxidative notes of flowers and steel. It’s also very acidic and lime acid. If that sounds good, it is. Only 95 cases quality. —S.H. off dry. A simple Riesling, but a clean and attrac- were produced, but finding this wine is worth a tive one. —S.H. search. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Navarro 2009 Estate Gewürz- 89 traminer (Anderson Valley); $19. Clavo Cellars 2008 Oracle Trefethen 2008 Dry Riesling (Oak Another lovely Gewurz from Navarro. Made with 86 Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles); 91 Knoll); $22. Like it says, this Riesling is neutral oak fermentation, it’s rich and crisp and $20. Soft and sweet in fruit and honey, like a bone dry. It’s also crisp in acidity, with a tang of spicy, with a mélange of exotic fruit and wild- dessert pastry, with a clean scour of acidity. It’s minerals and steel. It gains richness from a rich flower flavors. —S.H. rich and long in pineapple, orange, buttered toast core of lemon, lime and orange citrus flavors, and and cinnamon spice flavors. —S.H. possesses that note of diesel that a fine, cool cli- Navarro 2009 Estate Blanc mate Riesling shows. Should develop over the 88 (Anderson Valley); $19. A beautifully L’Avion 2008 Roussanne (Central next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. rich and complex wine showing the orange fla- 86 Coast); $38. A simple, slightly sweet vors of the variety, and the crisp acidity of its and soft white wine, with vanilla, apricot, tanger- Murrieta’s Well 2007 White Mer- cool-climate origin. Feels authoritative and clean ine and lemon flavors. —S.H. 90 itage Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc in the mouth, almost the perfect cocktail sipper. (Livermore Valley); $22. Dark yellow honey But it will also be great with salty foods, like ham, Wellington 2009 Estate Vineyard in color, this fine blend of 52% Sémillon, 48% chorizo, sausages. —S.H. 86 Marsanne (Sonoma Valley); $22. A Sauvignon Blanc is a nice ode to white Bordeaux, nice, slightly sweet white wine, with tropical fruit, very French in its austerity, with plenty of Palmina 2009 Honea Vineyard buttered toast, white flower and vanilla flavors. creaminess and barrel richness, too. Its layers of 88 Arneis (Santa Ynez Valley); $18. Easy to drink as a cocktail sipper. —S.H. lemon, peach, honeysuckle and butterscotch For those unfamiliar with Arneis, it’s a little like unveil themselves slowly, the wine’s depth open- Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, with citrus, ing over time. —V.B. apple and kiwi flavors. It’s also high in acidity and SPARKLING WINES dry, making it ideal as a cocktail sipper with Navarro 2009 Edelzwicker (Ander- savory small appetizers. —S.H. J Vineyards & Winery NV J Brut 90 son Valley); $13. A fascinating wine. 89 Rosé (Russian River Valley); $30. Tastes sweet and finishes bone dry, offering rich, Steven Kent 2009 Lola Ghielmetti With a pretty salmon color, this is a dry and very tangerine and honey flavors, accented with crisp 88 Vineyard Sémillon-Sauvignon rich bubbly. It has subtle strawberry, raspberry,

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 lime and yeast flavors. Could be smoother and Erath 2008 Fuqua Pinot Noir the antithesis of a jammy, California style yet it more refined in texture, but it’s a polished wine to 92 (Dundee Hills); $47. Good concentra- retains much of the vibrancy of New World fruit drink now, especially with sushi. —S.H. tion, which gives the fruit more plum and black rather than the suppressed rusticity of Burgundy. cherry than red raspberry. It’s deep and sinuous, Delicate cherry and tart plum fruit is sculpted J Vineyards & Winery NV J Cuvée with threads of graphite and smoke, but the fruit into a wine with nuanced details of cola and cof- 87 20 (Russian River Valley); $22. A is the star here, and the wine has the concentra- fee and spice. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. nice brut style wine with plenty of flavor. Satisfies tion and acidity to cellar well for a decade or for its range of citrus fruits, strawberries, vanilla more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2007 Laurène Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); and brioche. Very rich and delicate, although it’s a 91 Quest Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir $65. little coarse. Drink now. —S.H. The Laurène–Drouhin Family Estate 92 (Willamette Valley); $26. A fine bot- Reserve brings a bit more earthiness to the table tle, fresh and fruity, with cranberry, raspberry and than the regular DDO bottling. In the mouth, OREGON cherry fruit in abundance. It’s got depth and vital- the fruit—a delicate jumble of raspberry, pome- ity, a youthful verve that promises fine ageability. granate, cranberry and sour cherry—mingles RED WINES Aged in 28% new French oak, it is just barely with streaks of caramel, herb and leaf. A wine kissed with toast and mocha. A wonderful value. that will reward both cellaring (at least a decade) PINOT NOIR Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and studying. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Left Coast Cellars 2006 Cali’s Ponzi 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir South Block Pinot Noir Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- (Willamette Valley); $60. A gorgeous 92 91 95 (Willamette Valley); $45. Pretty and com- ley); $24. A home run. Given extra bottle age, wine, lush and refined from the first sniff to the plex, this delivers a mélange of interesting fla- this is drinking optimally at the moment, with a last swallow. Rose petals, cotton candy, chocolate- vors. Round, tart fruits—berries and sour plum— spicy, brambly nose mixing blackberries, mint covered cherries—it’s a date in a bottle. As the mingle with dried leaves, cut tobacco and mush- and chocolate-covered cherries. There’s a scent of wine rolls across the palate it seems to gain depth room. Somehow a citrus streak sneaks into the fresh cut wood also, and a mouthful of fruit and and detail, while keeping the exceptionally pretty finish, giving the wine a lemony lift. Delicious barrel flavors that are both nicely integrated and fruit flavors front and center. Silky and lightly already, it can be cellared for another 5–6 years. complementary. The long finish lingers into a res- spicy, with cinnamon, toast, mocha and tobacco Editors’ Choice. —P.G. onant note of black tea. —P.G. highlights. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ArborBrook Vineyards 2008 Estate Lumos 2008 North Temperance Adelsheim 2008 Zenith Vineyard 91 777 Block Pinot Noir (Chehalem 91 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); 93 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $90. Mountains); $45. This is a truly appealing $38. From a single block at Temperance Hill, Though Adelsheim offers a large assortment of wine that seduces with chocolate-covered cherry this aromatic wine neatly captures the terroir single-vineyard Pinots, this is the first they’ve flavors and soft, inviting tannins. The balance and without pushing too hard. There are herbal made from Zenith. It surely won’t be the last. concentration are all in proportion, with no nuances. a hint of hazelnut, some earth and wet Concentrated, thick black raspberry and black reliance on too much new oak (just 25% first use) stone, all nicely blended into a wine that is robust cherry fruit centers a substantial wine, laced with for the flavor. Details of spice and fresh tarragon but accessible. Good balance and well-managed vivid streaks of vanilla, tobacco and spice. The enliven the aftertaste. —P.G. tannins. —P.G. immediate impact of the fruit is amplified by the ArborBrook Vineyards 2008 Vint- Soléna 2008 Domaine Danielle density on the palate, and the finish, loaded with ner’s Select Pinot Noir (Chehalem Laurent Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carl- baking spices, reflects the aging in one-third new 91 91 Mountains); $60. This is the reserve, a barrel ton District); $50. There’s an odd plastic note French oak barrels. —P.G. selection limited to just 100 cases. The selection here. Firm and compact, with unyielding fruit; was done well and is meaningful; this has more black cherry, leaf and black tea flavors dominate. Ponzi 2008 Abetina Vineyard grip and body than the excellent Estate 777 Pinot This seems closed down even after being open Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); 93 Noir that precedes it in price. A mix of Northwest for several hours. —P.G. $100. This two-acre site dates back to 1975; this berries define the fruit, set against moderately is only the fourth time that Ponzi has offered it as stiff tannins with suggestions of caramel from the Trisaetum 2008 Estate Pinot Noir a designate. Muscular and authoritative, it is still oak aging. Put this one in the cellar. Cellar 91 (Willamette Valley); $75. Trisaetum compact and somewhat unyielding. Dark cherry Selection. —P.G. is making some of the most exciting Rieslings in and cassis fruit is packed with iron filings, coffee Oregon; now it can add Pinot Noir to its hit list. grounds and black licorice. Winemaker Luisa Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2008 Estate grown, elegant and showing more than a Ponzi does her usual excellent job of putting the 91 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); little new French oak, this toasty wine drinks like polish on outstanding fruit. Give it another $45. Once again, the Burgundian touch of a young Chambolle-Musigny. The tannins are decade and it will show its best. Cellar Selec- Veronique Drouhin has crafted a wine of surpass- sculpted and firm; the fruit ripe and racy with a tion. —P.G. ing elegance and immaculate structure. This is mélange of red berries and currants. Give this

WineMag.com | 2 9 BUYING I GUIDE more time in the bottle to absorb the new oak Valley); $40. Among the four different single- Stoller 2007 SV Estate Pinot Noir and shed some of the herbal aromas. —P.G. vineyard selections tasted, this showed best. 90 (Dundee Hills); $40. A real success in Strawberry/cherry fruit is spiced up with dark a challenging vintage, this is a meaty, flavorful, Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 chocolate and a thread of pine sap. Long and lay- well-built Pinot Noir. The fruit is a mix of berries, 91 Hannah Vineyard Pinot Noir ered, this offering shows enough vineyard charac- especially strawberry, with accents of peach, cola, (Willamette Valley); $45. Hannah vineyard is ter to make a designate compelling. —P.G. earth, sassafras and cinnamon. The wine keeps a select block at the highest point of Tualatin on going; it doesn’t wimp out or turn bitter. It’s Estate. Distinctive with a streak of pine resin run- Redhawk 2008 Estate Pinot Noir interesting now, but should develop even more ning through darker flavors of black raspberry, 90 (Eola-Amity Hills); $22. A fine, flavor with some years of cellaring. —P.G. black cherry and clean earth, it finishes with a appealing and complex wine, Redhawk’s estate lick of black licorice. —P.G. bottling shows more concentration than its less Stoller 2008 JV Estate Pinot Noir expensive stablemates, with nuances of bloody 90 (Dundee Hills); $25. Young and spicy, Carabella 2008 Pinot Noir meat and mint that give it an almost Rhônish with deeply-etched cranberry fruit flavors, 90 (Chehalem Mountains); $39. This character. The alcohol is under 14%, and it drinks limned with leafy herbal tannins. The core of excellent grower/producer has crafted a ripe, like a Burgundy, only with beefier tannins. Edi- fruit is pretty as can be, and the nicely-managed muscular Pinot Noir with the accent on spicy tors’ Choice. —P.G. tannins wrap it in a perfect frame, while giving it cranberry, plum and cherry compote. Adding added muscle. Another two or three years in the complexity are the unfolding barrel flavors— Sokol Blosser 2008 Goosepen bottle will really bring this into focus. Editors’ chocolate in particular—and a suggestion of root 90 Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); Choice. —P.G. beer that marks it as Chehalem Mountains fruit. $60. The Goosepen bottling is distinctive, ele- Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 —P.G. gant and spicy, with a mix of baking spices, soft O’Brien Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity fruits, chocolate, coconut and butter. Certainly 90 Erath 2008 La Nuit Magique Pinot Hills); $100. Like the winery’s “Fuller” Pinot the barrel program is a success, but it supports Noir (Willamette Valley); $65. Posi- Noir, this special, limited-edition offering honors 90 pretty fruit flavors of blackberry and sweet plum, tioned as the top wine in the massive Erath some industry stalwarts, the owners and the tannins are soft and seductive. A very lineup, La Nuit Magique was not made in 2007, of Elton Vineyards. It clearly reflects the flavors pretty, approachable wine. —P.G. but it’s back in 2008. A welcome relief from all of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA—no tricks or the single-vineyard wines, this blends the top bar- attempts to hide the natural earthy, herbal char- Sokol Blosser 2008 Peach Tree rels from excellent vineyards, slathers them in acter. Herb and sassafras, pine needle and sour Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); chocolaty oak, and the result is a palate-pleasing, 90 cherry, spice and even a hint of pickle barrel $60. Forward and immediately delicious, this open, warm, generous wine which might come (American oak?) mingle pleasantly, and the alco- has a mix of peach, pear, apple and the more from California. Sappy berry compote, enlivened hol remains at a comfortable 13.3%. —P.G. expected red fruits; it’s a wild panoply of fruit fla- with juicy acids, and finished with plenty of vor, with balancing acids and tannins. Round, for- sweet, toasty oak. —P.G. Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 ward, full bodied and textural, it is a uniquely 90 Fuller Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- Erath 2008 Prince Hill Pommard flavorful wine with distinctive fruit-laden profile. ley); $100. This limited-production offering 90 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $50. This —P.G. pays tribute to Bill Fuller, founder of Tualatin is a smooth customer, with a rich, silky mouthfeel, Vineyards and one of the pioneers of Oregon’s Sokol Blosser 2008 Estate Cuvée and has the soft seductive velvety character that modern era wine industry. Nicely balanced, it allows it to feel complete as a standalone clone. It 90 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $50. mixes tart red fruits, juicy acids, highlights of stops a bit short in the finish, hitting some herbal Great entry, soft and seductive, with cherry and spice and a persistent underpinning of dried tannins, but resonates with pretty barrel notes of chocolate, but it dies quickly, fading into a deli- leaves. —P.G. caramel and a hint of honey. —P.G. cate malted milk flavor. Re-tasted after being open for several hours, it had gained a little flesh, Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Libra 2008 Momtazi Vineyard retained the milk chocolate flavors, but still 90 Founders’ Reserve Pinot Noir 90 Pinot Noir (McMinnville); $35. The seemed to need more bottle age to soften up the (Willamette Valley); $35. Firm and slightly star of the show among the three Libra wines finish. —P.G. chewy, this interesting wine brings brambly tasted, this biodynamically-farmed offering is berries, dried herbs, forest floor and light mush- dark and exotic, with a range of scents from Soléna 2008 Zena Crown Vine- room flavors together in a well-crafted, well-bal- cherry liqueur to cinnamon, anise, and flowers. It 90 yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); anced effort. The alcohol is just over 13%, and breathes open into a perfumed and spicy wine, $40. Fruit from this Willamette Valley sub-AVA the style is classic Oregon. —P.G. with accents of orange peel around substantial, usually shows an herbal side, and here it is nicely brambly fruit. —P.G. melded into a fruit mix of melon, berry and pear. ArborBrook Vineyards 2008 It sounds oddly like a white wine, but it’s not; and 89 Heritage Cuvée Pinot Noir Panther Creek 2007 Freedom Hill the color and scents are clearly varietal. Penetrat- (Willamette Valley); $35. A sexy nose with 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette ing and sharp, with excellent definition. —P.G. soft, pretty plum and cherry fruit leads into a

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 well-rounded, satiny wine that coats the tongue rather quickly and should be consumed over the the wine, along with a mix of cranberry, raspberry like a velvet glove. The fruit is the star here— next couple of years. —P.G. and sour cherry fruit. Despite the 14% alcohol, ripe strawberries and cherry candy—with a touch this wine seems light, delicate, the flavors pleas- of sweetness and a lick of chocolate at the very Sokol Blosser 2008 Big Tree Block ing but pale, and the finish a gentle fade. —P.G. end. —P.G. 89 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $60. Tight, with a mix of berry, spice and a hint of Anne Amie 2008 Pinot Noir Bethel Heights 2008 Flat Block Band-Aid. This needs decanting to show well; it’s 88 (Willamette Valley); $35. Similar in 89 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity short and compact, concealing its flavors. Some style to the winery’s Cuvée A bottling, this had a Hills); $NA. Lovely aromatics mix floral, fruit cherry fruit and barrel flavors of chocolate and little higher percentage of new French oak (still and barrel components in equal proportion. The cinnamon, but this needs a lot more bottle age, or just one quarter total), and brings an earthier wine has some solid tannins, and sits in the lengthy decanting. —P.G. style to bear. The cherry fruit has scents and sub- mouth with a bit of gravitas. Wild cherry, rasp- tle flavors of compost and barnyard, with ripe but berry, fresh herb, and a little stiffness to the fin- Soléna 2008 Grande Cuvée Pinot chewy tannins. —P.G. ish. Definitely a wine to age a few more years. 89 Noir (Willamette Valley); $25. —P.G. Compiled from a half dozen vineyards scattered Erath 2008 Leland Pinot Noir throughout the northern Willamette Valley. Firm, 88 (Willamette Valley); $50. Cranberry Erath 2008 Estate Selection Pinot sculpted and dense, this has more grip and depth fruit, with pungent clove accents, sets up this 89 Noir (Willamette Valley); $36. Very than might be expected at this price point. Each spicy, assertive Pinot Noir. What appear to be soft and smooth—like a Michel Rolland version of vineyard’s grapes were separately fermented; the strong barrel flavors include vanilla and caramel a Pinot Noir. The berry/cherry flavors are velvety blending has pulled them all together with dark, along with coffee and clove. The fruit is tart and and clean, the tannins supple, the palate seam- plummy flavors, notes of raisin, baking spices and smooth, but the barrel flavors are not yet entirely less. The tang to the finish, showing some uninte- caramel, and a smooth, penetrating finish. —P.G. integrated. —P.G. grated acids, is the only jarring note. —P.G. Soléna 2008 Hyland Vineyard Erath 2008 Prince Hill 777 Pinot Hawks View 2008 Pinot Noir 89 Pinot Noir (McMinnville); $50. 88 Noir (Dundee Hills); $50. A single 89 (Chehalem Mountains); $35. From the heart of Pinot Noir country, this iconic clone selection from this vineyard, this has a Medium weight, round and tangy, this shows a vineyard, originally planted in the 1970s, yields high-toned pungency that captures your atten- core of cranberry/cherry fruit, a whiff of cola and concentrated flavors of black cherry, root beer, tion. Flavors of tea and wild cherry, mixed in with a suggestion of the tack room. It’s a detailed and incense and peppermint. Tart, juicy and quite hints of volatility, give the wine lift and life. As a somewhat earthy Pinot Noir. From the estate young, this finishes with leaf and herb-infused stand-alone wine it is incomplete, but captivat- vineyard, it’s what you hope to find in Oregon— tannins.—P.G. ing. It needs a finish. —P.G. Pinot that is artisanal, a little quirky, distinctive and above all, enjoyable. Fades just a bit too William Hatcher 2007 Pinot Noir Erath 2008 Knight’s Gambit Pinot quickly. —P.G. 89 (Willamette Valley); $48. A little 88 Noir (Dundee Hills); $47. Tight and extra bottle age has helped this wine soften up, bright, with sharp acidity, the Knight’s Gambit I’M 2007 Pinot Noir (Willamette but it still seems to stop a bit short. The entry is bottling shows tangy raspberry fruit, juicy and 89 Valley); $35. Michael Mondavi’s Folio firm and shows some Oregon herbal character, primary. You might be tasting right out of the bar- Fine Wine Partners now offers an Oregon Pinot along with tart, wild berry and light baking spices. rel; it’s that young and fresh. Let it air out if you Noir, this one vinified by Rob Mondavi, a fourth- There is a vague hint of barnyard as well. The want to put some flesh on it. —P.G. generation winemaker. Pale and elegantly styled, tannins are beginning to smooth out, and this can it shows refined winemaking skills and a Euro- probably benefit from a few more years in the Lange 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette pean sensibility. Pungently herbal, this supple cellar. —P.G. 88 Valley); $22. Lange produces a wide wine brings young fruit flavors of cranberry and range of Pinots, including an estate bottling, a raspberry, but shows ageworthy depth and per- Airlie 2008 BeckenRidge Vineyard reserve bottling and various single- vineyard sistence. It’s the sort of subtle, classic style that 88 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); cuvées. This is the most basic and affordable, and rewards both time and attention. —P.G. $35. The first BeckenRidge bottling since 2001, offers solid, quaffable fruit flavors of cranberry sourced from a vineyard planted in 1978. Fruit and raspberry, buoyed by firm acids. Just a hint of Redhawk 2008 Pataccoli Family flavors are round and supple, a soft mix of cherry tomato comes through, along with spicy pine 89 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity and plum, with herbs and earth flavors framing resin. Despite its youth, it is drinking nicely and Hills); $35. Just four barrels were made, with them. The wine fades gently, clean and delicate, already beginning to soften up. —P.G. grapes from a one-acre estate block of Pommard with a finishing note of cinnamon.—P.G. clone Pinot Noir planted more than 30 years ago. Libra 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette Detailed and brambly, with strawberry and Anam Cara 2008 Nicholas Estate 88 Valley); $20. A side project from cherry fruit, mottled with baking spices and 88 Reserve Pinot Noir (Chehalem Panther Creek’s winemaker, Libra’s afford- chocolate. The finish carries some brown sugar Mountains); $40. A funky undertone, similar ablypriced Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is dark, flavors, a hint that perhaps this wine will age to the Nicholas Estate bottling, weaves through aromatic and surprisingly concentrated. Black-

WineMag.com | 3 1 BUYING I GUIDE berries and black cherry fruit, with a splash of here a dash of vanilla cream and a hint of banana. showing a hint of bitterness, this kicks in with cola, continues into a midpalate plush with pep- —P.G. midpalate flavors of red plum and cherry. There’s per, moist earth and a hint of nectarine. It’s front some mint and vanilla evident from the 16 loaded, full-bodied and drinking well right now. Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 months in barrel, and for the price it delivers a lot —P.G. 88 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir of spicy, penetrating flavor. —P.G. (Willamette Valley); $45. This northern vine- Panther Creek 2008 Winemaker’s yard location delivers more herb and pine needle Libra 2008 Mystic Vineyard Pinot 88 Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- character than warm fruits, but you’ll find ele- 87 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $25. Much ley); $30. Tart cranberry fruit, mixed with wild gantly defined cranberry and sour cherry min- like its Willamette Valley stablemate, this is a strawberries and some woodsy, leafy notes, gling with leaf and cinnamon. It’s not exactly dark, aromatic Pinot Noir, with fruit flavors of anchor this multivineyard blend. Firm and spicy, delicate, but it is crafted for nuance more than cranberry and raspberry. It’s solid and a bit it’s well balanced and medium weight, and should power. —P.G. blocky, but full in the mouth, and there is an continue to improve for several years a cellar for unusual set of spices —clove and jalapeño pepper up to a decade. —P.G. Anam Cara 2008 Nicholas Estate to be exact. An interesting bottle, a bit off the 87 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains); beaten track. —P.G. Panther Creek 2007 Shea Vine- $30. The aromas bring a noticeable funk along yard Pinot Noir (Yamhill County); with the fruit, which seems to be muted by the Panther Creek 2008 Temperance 88 Hill Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $40. Fullbodied and detailed, the Shea vineyard leathery components. For some tasters this is 87 $40. bottling mingles fresh strawberry and sour cherry character, for others it suggests a bit of brett. Soft Clean and fruity, this 2008 vintage drinks fruit in a tart, clean, bracing Pinot Noir. It’s bal- flavors of red berry and cherry continue into a more like a 2007—light, elegant, with tart, straw- lightly chocolatey finish. —P.G. berry fruit flavors. It’s pleasant but ethereal; a lit- anced and fresh, with particular appeal to those tle more concentration would be a plus. —P.G. who prefer a racy, acidic style. —P.G. Anne Amie 2008 Cuvée A Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $25. Panther Creek 2007 Vista Hills Plowbuster 2009 Pinot Noir 87 This moderately-priced Pinot Noir spent 10 months Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee (Willamette Valley); $20. Made by 87 88 in mostly neutral French oak. Still quite young, it Hills); $40. This excellent Dundee Hills vine- Carabella, this popular budget Pinot sports solid, reveals primary fruit flavors of red apple, red pear yard supports a well-made, rather delicate wine, country flavors. Plenty of bright, vivid and tart and raspberry. Firm and juicy, with just a hint of reflective of the lighter 2007 vintage. Strawberry fruit—berries and cherries—give it a full-bodied, toast. —P.G. fruit and tea-flavored tannins combine in a bal- forward expression. But it’s not all front-loaded; anced, lightly tart, fairly simple Pinot Noir.—P.G. there is surprising depth, and overall a fine bal- Benton-Lane 2008 First Class Pinot ance. —P.G. 87 Noir (Willamette Valley); $60. This Redhawk 2008 Grateful Red Pinot limited-reserve bottling captures pretty cherry Noir (Willamette Valley); $15. A Redhawk 2008 Pinot Noir 87 fruit, opens well, holds firm and then fades. It good effort at this price, this tart and tasty Pinot (Willamette Valley); $18. With each 88 has a little more fruit and more polished tannins mixes cranberry and sour cherry fruit with plenty bump up in price, the winemaker ups the per- than the regular estate. —P.G. of juicy acidity. Ten percent was aged in new centage of new oak; here it’s 25%. Half the fruit is French oak, and you can pick up just a lick of estate grown, and this light, clean, well-balanced Erath 2008 Battle Creek Pinot Noir chocolate as the finish fades. —P.G. wine drinks like a village Burgundy, with the right 87 (Willamette Valley); $47. Very good hint of herb around the tart red fruit. —P.G. juice, but as with many of the seemingly endless RouteStock Cellars 2009 99W single-vineyard Pinots from Erath, you can’t help 87 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); Sokol Blosser 2008 Pinot Noir but wonder what might happen if some real $19. Another new entry into the under-$20 88 (Dundee Hills); $38. Full-bodied, blending took place? Cranberry and raspberry Oregon Pinot ranks, this one from Wilson firm, fruit with cranberry and highlights of cran- fruit, young and sharp, has not yet integrated to Daniels. Oregon law requires that wines with berry and chocolate. There’s plenty of acid, sharp chocolaty barrel flavors. It’s a wine split down the varietal labeling be 95% the named varietal; here edged at first, slowly softening a bit with light, middle, with a chalky finish. —P.G. there is 3% Syrah in the cuvée. Tart red berries, slightly watery, edges. —P.G. leaf and herb mingle in a graceful, though light Erath 2008 Prince Hill 115 Pinot bottle. A nice balance of fruit, herb, acid and tan- WildAire Cellars 2008 Reserve 87 Noir (Dundee Hills); $50. A single- nin, with a pleasing spicy finish. —P.G. 88 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); clone selection from this vineyard; it’s like a pen- $38. The percentage of new oak in WildAire’s cil drawing, a sketch for a complete wine. Sharp Soléna 2008 Guadalupe Vineyard reserve bottling is upped from one-fifth to one- edges, tight lines, a quick burst of pomegranate, 87 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton third of the barrels, and overall it has more earthy tannins and it stops, a hard finish. —P.G. District); $40. Fragrant and soft, this wine car- weight to the fruit than the companion 2008 Tim- ries a gentle floral fragrance—crushed roses— othy Pinot Noir. They are well-matched in other Genius Loci 2008 Pinot Noir into a midpalate of bright raspberry and cherry. It respects, with tart cranberry/cherry fruit, and 87 (Willamette Valley); $20. Sharp and turns a little leathery in the mouth, astringent but

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 with the cherry flavors persisting, suggesting that with the fruit subdued. Traces of herb remain, Castle Rock 2009 Pinot Noir further bottle age will soften it and add more tex- but they are like shadows on the wall. Perhaps 85 (Willamette Valley); $14. Another tural complexity. —P.G. the house style does not accommodate this par- entry into the under-$15 Oregon Pinot category, ticular vineyard’s character. This wine makes it that has become rather crowded in the past year. WildAire Cellars 2008 Timothy hard to know. —P.G. This is a stiff, tannic wine, still knitting itself 87 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); together, with vanilla cream-infused strawberry $20. This inexpensive, screw capped, light and Melrose 2008 Pinot Noir (Umpqua fruit, that only partially masks rather green, elegant Pinot Noir brings a mix of very tart cherry 86 Valley); $18. Round and fruity, this herbal tannins. —P.G. fruit, fresh herbs, and bracing acidity. It might mixes berries and hints of tropical fruit. Acids are be considered an Oregon take on a simple (but just enough, and there is little or no trace of a King Estate 2009 Signature Collec- well made) Bourgogne. —P.G. new barrel. Quaffable and light. —P.G. 85 tion Pinot Noir (Oregon); $29. There is an herbal scent here, along with a slight Zimri Cellars 2007 La Colina Vine- Panther Creek 2007 Verde Vine- whiff suggesting overripe, past-its-prime fruit. In 87 yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); 86 yards Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- the mouth the flavors are light, almost watery, $25. Light and pretty, with strawberry fruit ley); $35. Don’t be confused by the name; this with pale cherry, cranberry and raspberry notes. sporting a spicy top. This is carefully made, pleas- is a blend of fruit from three different sites, Not much if any barrel toast, but good balance of ing and varietal, and does not push too hard. Tan- united by their “green” farming practices—hence tannins and acids. —P.G. nins could soften up a bit with a little more bottle the name and the green label, that sets it apart age. —P.G. from the rest of the Panther Creek lineup. Earthy Macindoe 2008 Pinot Noir and infused with composted, organic flavors, this (Willamette Valley); $24. Strawberry Airlie 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette herbal, leafy Pinot Noir comes across as a little 85 and raspberry fruit enter brightly, then quickly Valley); $18. A splash of tart cherry rough and tumble, but interesting. —P.G. 86 fall flat in the mouth. The wine is sound, but introduces this charming Pinot Noir, which somehow lifeless, with a soft, quick fade. —P.G. resemble a country wine from the nether reaches Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); of Burgundy. The alcohol does not touch 13%, 86 Macindoe 2008 Pinot Noir (Eola- yet the flavors are here, with tart berries, a bit of $28. Still young and tart, with sharp acids, this Amity Hills); $28. Similar to Macin- stem, sharp tannins, and a medium-long finish. A Pinot shows cranberry and raspberry fruit, a coat- 85 doe’s Willamette Valley bottling, this shows light great quaffer. —P.G. ing of milk chocolate, and a finish that is an berry flavors and a hint of chocolate, then fades uneasy mix of acid, stem and earthy tannins. quickly into a flat finish. —P.G. Artisanal Wine Cellars 2007 Nothing has settled into a seamless whole; it’s a Adams Vineyard Reserve Pinot collection of parts that needs more bottle time. 86 Underwood Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains); $38. The —P.G. Noir (Oregon); $13. Loaded with scent carries light suggestions of cured meat, 85 bright raspberry fruit, a little on the soda pop along with tangy berries. Sharp-edged and tight, Anindor 2007 Pinot Noir (Umpqua side, but perfectly quaffable, and best served this needs decanting to fill out the finish. —P.G. 85 Valley); $19. Simply looking at the color you might take this for a 20-year-old wine; chilled. It would be an interesting side-by-side Benton-Lane 2008 Estate Pinot it’s that mature brick color that old Pinot takes with a Beaujolais Nouveau. —P.G. Noir (Willamette Valley); $26. Spicy on. Very soft and light, it tastes much older too, 86 3Fools 2008 Fools Gold Pinot Noir cranberry/raspberry fruit is the whole story here. with hints of brown sugar and raisin, and no trace It’s fresh, acidic, forward and spicy, then tails off of primary fruit or tannin. If you like well-aged 84 (Willamette Valley); $22. Very light, quickly into a tannic finish. The last impression is Pinot Noir, this is ready to go. —P.G. this is scented with fresh bread dough and shows of earth and stems, slightly bitter and astringent. a cherry soda pop flavor. Pretty, light and simple —P.G. Artisanal Wine Cellars 2008 Pinot on entry, it feels stripped of depth and disappears 85 Noir (Willamette Valley); $20. quickly in the mouth. —P.G. Clawson Creek 2008 Angela Pinot Earthy upon entry, with sub-notes suggesting 86 Noir (Oregon); $50. Soft, round and some stem contact and slightly green tannins. Cubanisimo 2008 Vendemia Vine- pretty, this wine announces itself with a massive, Tart and spicy, with wild berry and pomegranate 84 yard Reserve Pinot Noir deeply punted bottle. It’s a pleasant effort, with fruit, in a firmly focused, if short, wine. —P.G. (Willamette Valley); $42. Very light and del- tart red fruit, piercing acidity, and a lackluster, icate, despite the garnet color, this is sharply lightly herbal finish. —P.G. Artisanal Wine Cellars 2008 acidic—too much for the ephemeral fruit. There 85 Adams Vineyard Pinot Noir are floral notes and some pretty cherry accents, Erath 2008 Prince Hill Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains); $28. This vineyard then it turns hard and bitter in the finish. —P.G. 86 (Dundee Hills); $45. This is an unusu- select Pinot Noir shows some chocolate flavors ally buttery wine, as if it had been put through around thin, sharp red berry fruit. The oak influ- Cultivé Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir some special sort of . It ence dominates, along with an earthy, tannic fin- 84 (Dundee Hills); $35. Very pale, thin feels manipulated, softened and buttered up, ish. —P.G. and watery. The fruit is barely perceptible, a little

WineMag.com | 3 3 BUYING I GUIDE watermelon and unripe strawberry. The tannins, Nuthatch Cellars 2007 Syrah too, are light, with a breakfast tea flavor. —P.G. 87 (Walla Walla); $32. Tight and OTHER RED WINES unyielding, with a dominating Band-Aid streak J. Daan 2008 Pinot Noir that does not disappear even after many hours of Nuthatch Cellars 2008 Hogback 84 (Willamette Valley); $20. A first breathing time. There is some Walla Walla Syrah 89 Ridge Vineyard Malbec (Columbia whiff suggests rather dank scents of moist, sub- berry and loam character evident, and the vine- Valley); $30. Nicely balanced and detailed, this terranean earth. In the mouth it turns candied, yards are first rate (Seven Hills and Pepper Malbec includes small amounts of Cab Franc and like a cherry soda. The two components do not Bridge), but the reductive, plastic flavor masks Syrah. Tangy raspberry and spicy strawberry jam seem to fit together, and the acids linger through much of the fruit. —P.G. fruit flavors are dusted with toast and cracker a chalky finish. —P.G. notes. The wine spent 18 months in half new, half Genius Loci 2007 Folin Vineyard neutral oak barrels. —P.G. Artisanal Wine Cellars 2008 86 Syrah (Rogue Valley); $25. Firm, 83 Jubilee Vineyard Pinot Noir tannic and tight, this wraps its cherry fruit in a lot Cultivé Cellars 2008 Cabernet (Willamette Valley); $28. This young wine of coffee and toast from the barrel aging. After 86 Sauvignon (Rogue Valley); $25. has not come into focus; it feels off center and that, it does a gentle fade, with some residual Sharp, herbal and varietal, with a deep rose color. disjointed. Components include a mix of sour red acidity. —P.G. Strawberry and Bing cherry fruit shines here, but fruit, which drops off quickly, and leaves a tart, the tannins take over in the finish. Some further chalky aftertaste. —P.G. Del Rio Vineyards 2008 Syrah bottle age may help to smooth it out. —P.G. 84 (Rogue Valley); $35. This is straight- Cubanisimo 2008 Pinot Noir forward Syrah, tannic and dusty. The fruit sug- Melrose 2008 Equinox (Umpqua 81 (Willamette Valley); $19. Cherry and gests black cherry and the barrels bring in licorice, 86 Valley); $20. The blend is half Dol- smoke, with a burnt rubber edge. In the mouth it there is an underlying earthiness to the mouth- cetto, 40% Baco Noir, and the rest a mix of Tem- is thin and watery, diffuse and flat. —P.G. feel as well. But the overall impression is one pranillo and Syrah. Creative, to be sure. What dimensional, without the sweetness of California emerges is a rustic, fruity, forward, simple and fruit or the funk of Washington Syrah. —P.G. slightly gamy red, the sort of wine that might be SYRAH served in a carafe in a Mediterranean cafe. Light and fruity, with a spicy kick to the finish. —P.G. Abacela 2007 Estate Syrah 91 (Umpqua Valley); $30. Cofermented Zimri Cellars 2008 Merlot with about 3% Viognier, this estate-grown Syrah Abacela 2007 Estate Tempranillo 86 (Umpqua Valley); $30. A fruity, black is done in a style quite different from anywhere 90 (Umpqua Valley); $35. This decep- cherry nose is accented with leather and forest else on the West Coast. It’s racy and almost deli- tive wine looks almost Pinot-like in color, but floor scents. The flavors follow, with smoke and cate, with none of the jammy fruit of California packs a myriad of flavors into its compact and raw licorice wrapped into the black fruits. Tannins or the funk of Washington. But what it does have frame. Rose petals, pomegranate, sour cherry, show black tea and a hint of bitterness. —P.G. is grace and detail—starting with plums and cher- hints of cumin and nutmeg—it just keeps on ries and bringing in loads of spice and chocolate, going. Tannins are beautifully polished and the Melrose 2008 Merlot (Umpqua hints of coffee grounds and a whiff of tobacco. It’s wine slowly unfolds, adding layers of flavor. 85 Valley); $20. Fruity and tart, with cran- all elegantly displayed, lingering and polished, Should improve for six to eight years and cellar berry and not quite ripe wild blackberry flavors. with surprising length. —P.G. for even longer. Cellar Selection. —P.G. The acidity is front and center here, the fruit sec- ond, and the wine fades away with no additional Abacela 2008 Syrah (Southern Abacela 2008 Tempranillo (South- complexity in the finish. A pleasant, fruity, no- 88 Oregon); $19. The aromas indicate a 88 ern Oregon); $20. A portion of this is frills red. —P.G. mix of ripe and less ripe fruit—some fig and date estate grown, the rest sourced from neighboring scents, some herb and bark scents. In the mouth southern Oregon vineyards. Harvested at just 24 Purple Hands Winery 2008 Red it comes together, with those flavors sharply brix, it’s an elegant style, with plenty of tart wild 83 (Oregon); $18. A Pinot-Syrah-Merlot delineated by stiff acids. A gentle wash of choco- berry flavors, and alcohol under 14%. Just a bare blend that doesn’t really go anywhere. It’s stiff late sparks the finish. —P.G. hint of new oak adds a nice toasty note to a black and herbal, stemmy and tannic, with no resolu- cherry finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. tion of the various varietal fruit flavors. Red, tart Melrose 2008 Syrah (Umpqua Val- and tannic. —P.G. 88 ley); $20. Cofermented with 3% Viog- Melrose 2008 Tempranillo nier, this distinctive Syrah just skirts the edge of 86 (Umpqua Valley); $24. Very tart and ripeness. It brings cranberry and pomegranate acidic, this shows cranberry fruit flavors and the ROSÉ WINE fruit flavors, etched with licorice and mint and barest suggestion of cured meat. Fruit-powered, coffee beans, supported by firm acids. There’s a sharp and quite young, this might substitute for a Cubanisimo 2009 Rosado de Pinot nice balance and penetrating fruit that gives the cru Beaujolais more than something from Spain. 82 Noir (Willamette Valley); $18. finish some length and interest. —P.G. —P.G. Sweet, almost syrupy strawberry scents suggest

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 that this will be off dry, but it is not. It does seem Carabella 2008 Pinot Gris Del Rio Vineyards 2009 Estate as if the fruit was late-picked, at least for a rosé, 88 (Chehalem Mountains); $16. A very 83 Reserve Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley); and it has a slightly rancid aftertaste. —P.G. tasty wine, loaded with fleshy, fruity flavor. The $26. The first impression is of Bosc pear, quickly dominant note is fresh cut pear, dappled with cin- followed with an aftertaste of some sort of chalky namon spice. Round and balanced, it’s a delicious cardboard. There’s a sweaty, plastic note lingering OREGON bottle with just a slight hint of residual sweet- in the finish; something is just a little off. —P.G. WHITE WINES ness. —P.G. Lumos 2009 Rudolfo Vineyard PINOT GRIS 88 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley); CHARDONNAY $17. An interesting wine, somewhat sharp and ArborBrook Vineyards 2009 Croft yeasty upon entry, but also showing a creamy, tex- Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 92 Vineyard Pinot Gris (Willamette tural midpalate with a streak of honey down the 91 Estate Chardonnay (Willamette Valley); $18. Bright and spicy, this is Pinot Gris fruit flavors of pear and apple. It’s dry, persist- Valley); $30. A great success in 2008, this com- with a bit of the grassy bite of a Loire Valley ent, and distinctive, though not typical for Ore- pelling Chardonnay offers concentrated, dense Sauvignon Blanc. Racy and loaded with grape- gon Pinot Gris. —P.G. fruit flavors of lemon curd and sweet pineapple, fruit and pineapple flavors, this lingers lazily along with streaks of vanilla cookie. Nuances through a refreshing, acid-driven finish that Soléna 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon); reveal themselves through a lingering finish; fresh invites further sipping. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. $20. Full-bodied, fruity and loaded with 88 Editors’ Choice. ripe peach and pear flavors, this lively and herb and hints of rock. —P.G. Rex Hill 2008 Reserve Pinot Gris refreshing wine is drinking beautifully. There’s a 91 (Willamette Valley); $28. Balanced bit of fruit sweetness set against the natural acid- Amalie Robert 2009 Her Silhou- and fresh, with a mix of pear, quince, melon and ity, keeping the wine poised and balanced. —P.G. 90 ette Chardonnay (Willamette Val- apple, lightly dusted with baking spices, this ley); $22. Tart and slender, this is deceptive; at appealing Pinot Gris is a fine match for salmon, Airlie 2008 Pinot Gris (Willamette first it seems a little thin, but as it opens in the halibut, and other Northwest seafood. Textural, 86 Valley); $12. With alcohol of just 12% glass into a succulent, well-defined, racy wine laced with refreshing minerality, and persistent the suspicion is that this wine has significant with citrus and peach, mineral and herb. It’s not into a long finish, this is Oregon PG at its best. residual sugar; but once you taste it, you realize delicate, but its muscularity is concealed behind Editors’ Choice. —P.G. it’s actually finished dry. Despite the delicate fruit elegant styling. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. flavors—melon and white grape—it does not Anindor 2009 Pinot Gris (Umpqua seem underripe; it’s quite Euro in style, and David Hill 2009 Estate Unoaked 90 Valley); $16. This estate-bottled Pinot delightful as an apéritif. —P.G. Gris, from a vineyard planted in 1983, shows 90 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley); some definite residual sugar, despite its alcohol Redhawk 2009 Pinot Gris (Eola- $15. Citrus and honeydew fruit flavors anchor rating of 14.4%. Plenty ripe all right, and plenty 86 Amity Hills); $12. This affordable this unoaked Chardonnay. It has a wonderful tasty, too. This has the body and balance to match Pinot Gris seems to have a little residual sugar; leesy texture that enlivens the palate, giving the up with a fat cut of salmon, perhaps in a semi- the flavors are rounded out with a hint of sweet- impression of limestone, or at least lime pulp. sweet tamari sauce, or a grilled pork roast with a ness, much like a California Chardonnay. The Flavors linger, clean and utterly refreshing. Best fruit dressing. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. spicy pear fruit is full-bodied and varietally cor- Buy. —P.G. rect. Not a complex wine, but fine for everyday Hawks View 2009 Pinot Gris enjoyment. —P.G. Panther Creek 2008 Elton Vine- 90 (Chehalem Mountains); $24. Estate grown, crisp and nicely defined, with a pretty mix Castle Rock 2009 Pinot Gris 88 yard Chardonnay (Eola-Amity of apple, pear, peach and apricot flavors. The 84 (Willamette Valley); $14. Firm and Hills); $20. Tangy and pleasantly round upon fruit is framed with citrus rind (orange and grape- fleshy, with sharply accented tart fruit and other entry, this mingles fresh apple and peach fruit fruit) and keeps the wine tight and focused scents and flavors that suggest pungent pine nee- with baking spice highlights. There is a full mid- through a clean, lingering finish. —P.G. dles, diesel and catbox. It would seem that there palate, fruit-driven and flavorful, that gracefully is a fair amount of Sauvignon Blanc in here, but tails off into a tart and juicy finish. —P.G. Left Coast Cellars 2008 The apparently not. —P.G. Orchards Pinot Gris (Willamette 90 Zimri Cellars 2008 Chardonnay Valley); $18. This wine immediately wows the Willamette Valley Vineyards 2009 88 (Willamette Valley); $18. Bright, palate, bursting into full flavor with an explosion 84 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley); of apple and pear fruit. There’s a light yeastiness $15. Simple pear and vanilla flavors fill a thick, fruity and spicy, this palate-lifting effort brings as well, just enough to suggest a young, fresh, exu- blocky midpalate. There’s no lift to the flavors; flavors of pineapple, pink grapefruit and melon. berant wine, and it simply grabs hold of your taste they are clean but not fresh, fruity but without Lightly spicy, balanced and showing a little toast buds and never lets go. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. any zip. Perhaps just a dull bottle? —P.G. around the edges. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 3 5 BUYING I GUIDE

fines the flavors; the fruit seems like an after- RIESLING thought. That said, it might just be the perfect VIOGNIER wine to try with fresh oysters, firm and lightly Trisaetum 2009 Josahn Riesling Cowhorn 2009 Viognier (Apple- lemony with a hint of brine. —P.G. 94 (Willamette Valley); $24. A dry 93 gate Valley); $30. This small, family- wine, companion to the winery’s off-dry estate Airlie 2009 Riesling (Willamette owned, biodynamically farmed vineyard and bottling. This does not give up its fruit as some winery is quickly becoming a southern Oregon Valley); $12. This drinks much drier dry Rieslings do; there is a pleasing mix of lemon, 85 cult producer. Certainly one of the finest Viog- grapefruit, pineapple and apricot, full in the mid- than its 12.3% alcohol and 1.5% residual sugar niers produced anywhere in the Northwest, this palate, then turning more astringent and cheerily would indicate. It tastes of cold steel and musty extraordinarily aromatic wine showers the palate tart in the finish. This is very young, compact, cardboard around the edges, but with some good with luscious and tangy lemon, pineapple, Sat- and still tight as a drum; it could be cellared for peach and apple fruit flavor in the core. Some- suma orange and pear fruit flavors. Then the up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. what reminiscent of an Australian style, it is a spices pile on, lending an exotic twist to a lengthy food wine rather than a sipping wine. —P.G. midpalate, and leading into a lightly toasty finish. Trisaetum 2009 Estate Riesling Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 93 (Willamette Valley); $24. This gor- Willamette Valley Vineyards 2009 geous new release, from a young winery with a Amalie Robert 2009 Our Muse 85 Riesling (Willamette Valley); $12. Riesling focus, is resplendent with an enticing 88 Viognier (Willamette Valley); $30. mix of flowers, fruits and stone. The scents well Sweet and light, just 10% alcohol, it’s close to a Fragrant and sharp edged, with citrus rind fla- up from the glass and the flavors fill the mouth late harvest dessert wine. There is just enough vors, and a hint of bitterness around the tight with a lively zest, pulling together streaks of acidity to keep it on the dinner table, with spicy fruit flavors. As it breathes, pretty, concentrated lemon, lime, nectarine and apricot, accented with noodle dishes perhaps. Sugary and simple, with fruit flavors emerge, suggesting marmalade and citrus rind and wet rock, honey and lemon tea. a cardboard flavor running through the finish. apricot preserves. It finishes with a light touch, Editors’ Choice. —P.G. —P.G. tart and bracing. —P.G.

Anam Cara 2009 Nicholas Estate Del Rio Vineyards 2009 Viognier 90 Riesling (Chehalem Mountains); GEWÜRZTRAMINER 85 (Rogue Valley); $20. Firm and sappy, $19. This gentle, lightly off-dry Riesling was fer- with varietally true peach and apricot fruit flavor. mented primarily in neutral oak, which seems to Airlie 2007 Dry Gewürztraminer Turns a little syrupy in the follow through, giving have softened the entry without impacting the it a canned peaches impression in the aftertaste. (Willamette Valley); $12. With a hint flavors. Aromatic highlights of honeysuckle and 88 —P.G. orange marmalade introduce a full palate with a of blush in the color and a scent of rose petals in complex fruit mix including raspberry, citrus and the nose, this aromatic and flavorful Gewürz orange. The finish brings an impression of cotton invites contemplation. It’s got some strong pine OTHER WHITE WINES candy. —P.G. needle flavors along with light citrus and apple fruit, but the more interesting elements are the Erath 2009 Quail Run Kings Ridge 2009 Riesling (Ore- floral/soapy harmonics that dance along the 91 (Southern Oregon); $22. A rich, gon); $12. 89 Always one of the finest val- edges. Best Buy. —P.G. woody style of Pinot Blanc, the barrel toast ues in Oregon Riesling, the Kings Ridge really wrapped around superripe tropical fruit flavors shines in 2009. Juicy and bursting with ripe of banana, papaya and pineapple, with a hint of Lumos 2009 Temperance Hill Vine- pineapple, pear and peach fruit, this big, round, grapefruity acids. This is flat-out delicious, and yard Gewürztraminer (Willamette luscious wine masks its residual sugar with tangy 87 could easily pass for an expensive Chardonnay. acidity. Best Buy. —P.G. Valley); $19. Stainless-steel fermentation yields Editors’ Choice. —P.G. a tangy, ripe, tart, tongue-tickling Gewurz- A to Z 2009 Riesling (Oregon); traminer with exceptional minerality. The echo- Left Coast Cellars 2008 Left Bank 87 $18. With alcohol at just 11.5% and a ing varietal flavors of flower and rosewater add 89 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley); flowery new label, this is a complete makeover interest to the finish. Still a bit yeasty, but should $21. Much like the winery’s Pinot Gris, this from the 2008 A to Z Riesling. The fruit is back, improve with a little more bottle age. —P.G. estate-grown Pinot Blanc is built around mineral- along with lemon and orange peel, honey and tea. infused fruit that is immaculately clean and Broad, bracing and slightly chalky acids keep the 3Fools 2009 Fool Overruled vividly refreshing. Tart and juicy, with Asian pear, sugar in check. —P.G. green apple, and lemon/lime acidity. —P.G. 85 Gewürztraminer (Willamette Val- A to Z 2008 Riesling (Oregon); ley); $12. Dry and dusty, with an unusual mix of Airlie 2009 Seven (Willamette Val- 86 $12. This dry Riesling has a steely spine scents that suggest lemon polish, cantaloupe and 87 ley); $12. Crisp and fresh, this appeal- running right through the heart of the wine; you spun sugar. Soft and spicy, it quickly tails off into ing white blend brings some floral and tea scents can almost taste the metal. It defines and con- a faded finish. —P.G. and flavors into a mix of pear, apple and white

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 peach. An light touch sweetness is off-set by the Mirador. Drink now through 2015. Imported by Malbec for the money. The bouquet is floral and juicy acidity; the alcohol clocks in at 12.2%. Best T.G.I.C. Importers. bright, with a hint of dry oak and mocha. The Buy. —P.G. feel is full and well balanced, while the palate has Colomé 2007 Reserva Malbec a bright and lively personality with cherry, rasp- Macindoe 2009 Roussanne (Colum- 91 (Calchaqui Valley); $90. Big, dark, berry, chocolate and spice flavors. Smooth, tastes 86 bia Valley); $18. Clean and peachy, this sweet and jammy on the nose, with earthy, can- good and offers plenty of value. Imported by forward, fruity effort nicely captures the varietal died, sweet aromas of ripe blackberry and herbs. Buena Cepa Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. fruit flavor. It holds steady in the mouth, a bit one The palate delivers bouncy, showy acidity, while dimensional, with good viscosity and persistence. the flavors of black cherry, dark plum and choco- Domaine Jean Bousquet 2009 The finish feels a little flat. —P.G. late are solid and rewarding. A little pruney on 89 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza); $18. deeper inspection, with a leathery quality to the Dark and heavily oaked on first blush, but give it Macindoe 2009 Melon de Bour- wine’s depth. Drink now through 2013. Imported time to unwind or let it sit in the bottle for a year 85 gogne (Yamhill-Carlton District); by Hess Collection. —M.S. or two and this will satisfy any Malbec lover. $18. This is supposedly the same grape that Early on, it’s dense and full of shoe polish, mint makes French Muscadet, though its place in Ore- Bodega Catena Zapata 2008 Mal- and coconut; later it spreads out to show sweet gon history remains a bit muddled. This has fla- 90 bec (Mendoza); $22. Wines like this dark-berry flavors and finally a rich, almost sticky vors that map to that wine, however: high acid, have defined and propelled Malbec mania. It’s finish of woodspice, brown sugar and lushness. green apple and some textural minerality. —P.G. ripe, bold and firm, with welcoming berry aro- Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. mas and a powerful but healthy palate of ripped black cherry, berry and cola flavors. In the mix Siesta 2007 Malbec (Mendoza); ARGENTINA and on the finish you’ll find coffee and mocha. 89 $30. A rich and creamy sort of Malbec Drink now and over the next two years. Imported that pours on the weight, extract and oaky, RED WINES by Winebow. —M.S. coconutty character. The palate is syrupy, with huge flavors of roasted berry, molasses and sweet MALBEC Familia Cassone 2007 Obra Prima spices. Arguably on the baked and heavy side, but 90 Reserva Malbec (Luján de Cuyo); definitely a rich, huge wine with just enough core Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 $20. Almost everything about this wine is right on acidity to keep it balanced. Imported by 93 Catena Alta Malbec (Mendoza); the money, from bouquet and flavors to feel and Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. $50. One sniff tells you plenty: there’s attractive price. The nose is sweet and floral, with deep, spice, coffee and leather to go with rich molasses alluring berry aromas. The palate offers a fine tex- Trivento 2007 Eolo Malbec (Luján and broad black-fruit aromas. The palate main- ture, with pure, layered blackberry, cola and spice 89 de Cuyo); $79. Lively but also narrow tains balance due to fine, fresh acidity, and the flavors. Satisfying on the finish and complete. on the nose. The feel is very fresh and juicy due flavor profile brings mocha, coffee, berry, plum Imported by Bedford International. —M.S. to firm, bracing acidity that gives a tangy, lemony and toast. Delicious, deep, layered and refined. character to the wine’s dark-fruit core. Snappy, Will age for at least 5–6 years, but best from Viu Manent 2007 Vibo Malbec linear and crisp for a wine of magnitude and 2012–2014. Imported by Winebow. Cellar 90 (Mendoza); $40. Plenty of mocha and extraction. Some might say it’s sheering and Selection. —M.S. vanilla combined with racy berry aromas give this acidic; others might call it ageworthy. Imported an ice cream sundae-type of bouquet. The palate by Banfi Vintners. —M.S. Tomero 2007 Gran Reserva Mal- is healthy and snappy, with lively acidity pushing 92 bec (Mendoza); $50. Robust, deep black cherry and meaty plum flavors. Whole and Zuccardi 2009 Serie A Malbec and candied on the nose, with rooty richness, toasty on the finish, with touches of excellence 89 (Mendoza); $15. Round, dense and medicinal notes and complexity. The palate is throughout. Impressive for a first effort, with correct on the nose, with heft and dark fruit aro- smooth, meaty, healthy and suave, with lush black room to improve. Drink now through 2012. mas. The palate is tight, pure and just the right fruit, prune and earthy flavors. Long, likable and Imported by Baystate Wine Co. —M.S. size, with blackberry, boysenberry and a bit of showing a lot of depth and structure. Drink now vanilla and caramel in the background. Smooth through 2014. Imported by San Francisco Wine Bodega Renacer 2007 Punto Final on the tail end, with sweet coconut and mocha Exchange. —M.S. 89 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza); $20. notes. Friendly and well done for the price. Dark, sweet and rooty on the nose, with a warm, Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. Achaval-Ferrer 2008 Finca Bella soft outlook. The palate is bold and thorough, 91 Vista Malbec (Mendoza); $120. with ripe berry, plum and chocolate flavors. Per Familia Cassone 2007 Obra Prima Bella Vista is the richest, most dense of A-F’s usual, Punto Final is ripe, sweet and big, with a 88 Coleccion Malbec (Mendoza); $40. three single-vineyard . It opens with peppery finish and toasty, jammy warmth. Dark and raisiny, and pushing the ripeness meter leather, smoke, blueberry and floral aromas. Next Imported by Winebow. —M.S. to the max. This is a dense, sweet, semihot wine in line is a chewy, dark palate of wild berry and with raisin, stewed berry and jammy black cherry earthy fruit flavors. Clean on the finish with a bit Domaine Jean Bousquet 2009 flavors. It’s big and broad, more simple than com- less acidity than its brothers, Altamira and 89 Malbec (Mendoza); $12. Very nice plex, with a raisiny DNA and a boatload of sweet-

WineMag.com | 3 7 BUYING I GUIDE ness. Personally, I prefer Cassone’s less expen- fresh and lively, with juicy berry flavors, con- Susana Balbo 2008 Signature Mal- sive, more balanced reserva to this wine. trolled creamy oak notes and spice. Clean on the 87 bec (Mendoza); $25. As the higher- Imported by Bedford International. —M.S. finish, and a pleasure to drink. Imported by end 2008s hit the market, the vintage’s Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. underwhelming character is confirmed via wines Fantelli 2008 Serie Magno Malbec like this. Oaky and rubbery on the nose, with 88 (Mendoza); $15. Round, lifted and Viña Alicia 2007 Brote Negro Mal- scattered, lean berry fruit flavors and bitterness. bright, with full berry, cassis and plum aromas. 88 bec (Luján de Cuyo); $100. A tale of Like many ’08s, it’s short on richness and comes The palate is round and the body full, while the two wines. The early impression is that of a foxy, across unfocused. That said, it’s still a good wine flavor profile includes roasted blackberry, coffee, incomplete, sweaty wine with gaps in the fabric. that’s not badly made. Imported by Vine Connec- chocolate and coconut. A full and chewy wine But once it gets air, things turn around for the tions. —M.S. that comes across nice given the troubles of the better. Ultimately it proves itself as a serious Mal- ’08 vintage. Imported by Kensington Distribu- Terra Rosa 2008 Old Vine Malbec bec with a broad texture and jammy, sweet berry tors Inc. —M.S. (Mendoza); $11. Given the difficul- fruit. But it starts out so scattered and funky that 87 ties of 2008, this is a commendable, drinkable it remains compromised. Imported by Southern Filus 2008 Reserve Malbec (Uco wine. The nose is full and dark, with ripe berry Starz, Inc. —M.S. 88 Valley); $20. Oaky up front, with more aromas. That leads to a tannic, semisharp palate than a dash of mocha, caramel and sweet berry with spunky blackberry fruit that comes with Carlos Basso 2009 Reservado Mal- fruit aromas. The palate is zesty and honest, with spice and chocolate shadings. Flavorful and cor- bec (Mendoza); $16. juicy, bright black cherry and berry flavors. Fin- 87 Floral and fruity rect, but a little tight and tough. Imported by ishes toasty and perky, with one last shot of firm to open the show, and then there’s plenty of oak Laurel Glen Vineyard. Best Buy. —M.S. acidity to keep it running long and late. Imported and resin aromas coming next. The palate is tight, by Bronco Wine Company. —M.S. acid rich and woody, with solid black fruit flavors Terrazas de Los Andes 2007 Afin- along with toasted oak notes and coconut. Juicy, 87 cado Las Compuertas Single Vine- Finca Sophenia 2009 Altosur Mal- fresh and healthy, but quite oaky. Imported by yard Malbec (Mendoza); $45. Initially it 88 bec (Tupungato); $12. Blackberry, Southern Wine Group. —M.S. smells flat and earthy, with raisiny black fruit aro- rubber and a suggestion of minerality work well mas. As it airs out it improves, but throughout its as an invitation to this juicy, woody wine that’s Graffigna 2007 Grand Reserve run it comes across heavy and wayward, with long and full in the mouth, with dark-fruit flavors 87 Malbec (San Juan); $20. This wine raisiny flavors and a simple dullness that prevents of black cherry, blackberry and plum. Woody and requires breathing time to show its true colors. the wine from rising to the next level. Good Mal- toasty, too, but dry and spicy rather than sweet, Early on it’s reduced and cheesy, but soon it bec but not a value at $45. Imported by Moët blowsy and creamy. A nice Malbec for all occa- offers cleaner aromas of cola, berry and dark Hennessy USA. —M.S. sions. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. Best plum. The acidity is a bit high and sheering, but Buy. —M.S. on the plus side it’s fresh and driving, with bright Tilia 2009 Malbec (Mendoza); $9. cherry and berry flavors along with ample oak. 87 Sweet and savory aromas of hickory, Luca 2008 Malbec (Uco Valley); Imported by Pernod Ricard. —M.S. BBQ and plum jam are nice, while the body is 88 $32. Graham cracker is the lead aroma, structured and full. The flavors follow the nose, and that’s followed by jammy fruit, cookie dough Mendel 2008 Malbec (Mendoza); meaning there’s a savory, roasted quality to the and finally a touch of raisin. The palate is plump 87 $30. By all accounts, 2008 was a tough wine but also jammy raspberry fruit notes. Chewy for an ’08, with berry flavors, herbal notes and and a bit marinated, but it’s quite good for the vintage with cool weather, stunting frosts and some bitterness. A touch clipped and rough, but price. Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. ripeness issues. This wine seems afflicted: its a good effort for a tough year. Imported by Vine opening is good, with coconut and floral shad- Connections. —M.S. Tomero 2009 Malbec (Mendoza); ings. But the palate is limited in richness and the $15. Sweet and candied on the nose, flavors are standard, with char and barrel notes 87 Salentein 2008 Reserve Malbec with marshmallow, cotton candy, chocolate- creating bitterness. Nice and honest for a subpar 88 (Uco Valley); $19. Earthy and rugged dipped cherry and dustiness. The palate has a at first, then it smooths out to show cola and lush year. Imported by Vine Connections. —M.S. pure feel and good ripeness, with flavors of herbal berry aromas. Plump and round in the mouth, berry, toast, coffee and spice. Warm, chocolaty O. Fournier 2009 Urban Uco Mal- with jammy blackberry core flavors, a hint of and oaky, with a lasting mocha flavor. Imported by herbs and spice, and then a chewy, sticky, gener- 87 bec (Uco Valley); $14. Warm and San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. ous finish. Very nice Malbec with a cool identity. generous on the nose, with hints of brick dust Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.S. and herbal strawberry fruit. Seems healthy and Zolo 2008 Malbec (Mendoza); $11. ready in the mouth, with good berry fruit, moder- 87 Earthy and warm on first take, with deep Septima 2009 Malbec (Mendoza); ate spice notes and just a minor touch of herbal fruit and soupy side aromas. The palate is juicy 88 $12. A well-made everyday Malbec that character. Works well, although it worked better and lively, with blackberry flavors as well as toasty gets it done in all ways. Smells nice and floral, when it was an under-$10 wine. Imported by accents. Round, ripe and generous on the finish, with bold, smooth berry aromas. The palate is Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. with brightness but also a syrupy side. All in all it’s

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 a good wine for the money. Imported by Epic bery black fruit flavors. Grabby, tannic and a little also a bit of green at the core. Finishes bold but a Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. hot on the finish. Good but on the sharp, under- little hot and scratchy. Imported by Constellation whelming side. Imported by Vine Connections. Wines U.S.. —M.S. Bodega Atamisque 2007 Catalpa —M.S. 86 Old Vines Malbec (Tupungato); Enrique Foster 2007 Finca Castro $16. Opens with a slight chemical-smelling top- Salentein 2008 Killka Malbec (Uco 85 Barros Reserva Malbec (Luján de ping to berry, raisin and cheesy aromas. The 86 Valley); $14. Jammy raspberry aromas Cuyo); $24. Slightly sharp and herbal upon first palate is chunky on one hand and driving on the greet you, followed by dry spice, light oak and impression, with green herb and field-like aromas other, with berry and raisiny flavors. Lush on the milk chocolate scents. The palate is warm, mildly along with rubbery, earthy black fruit. The palate finish but raisiny, and overall it settles on soft- rich and resiny, with oaky flavors of pepper, spice is mulled and a touch edgy, with herbal, lightly bodied and flush. Imported by Davis Wine and black fruit. Finishes quite sweet but also pep- stemmy berry flavors. Decent as a whole, but sort Imports. —M.S. pery due to the oak treatment. Imported by Palm of sharp, herbal and stemmy for a higher-end Bay International. —M.S. wine. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. Familia Los Agüeros 2007 Made 86 With Organic Grapes Oak Malbec Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 Mal- Ruta 22 2008 Malbec (Neuquén); (Mendoza); $16. Seems light, stemmy and 86 bec (Mendoza); $10. Generic and 85 $NA. Dark, rubbery aromas lead to a minty on first take, but airing reveals deeper cola generally clean, with dry berry aromas and a simple, sweet, baked, candied palate that also and sweet fruit aromas. The palate is juicy, not touch of sharpness. The palate is full, stocky and offers a touch of acidity and some balancing bit- too heavy and strides forward, while the flavors solid, with black-fruit flavors and a medicinal terness. The wine blends a fair amount of can- center on basic red fruits and berry syrup. A little character. Finishes dry, woody, peppery and died sweetness with a touch of butter, pepper and raisiny late, but solid as a whole. Imported by slightly hot, with snap and power. Imported by herbal notes. Standard fare as Malbec goes. USA-Mendoza Valley Group, LLC. —M.S. Moët Hennessy USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S.

Finca [ñ] 2009 Malbec (Alto Valle Terrazas de Los Andes 2008 Argento 2008 Tarquino Malbec 86 de Uco); $20. Quiet yet solid on the 86 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza); $15. 84 (Mendoza); $10. Earthy and leathery nose, with mild aromas of cassis and black fruits. A touch grassy to start, with blueberry and black- smelling, but very much on the light-bodied side The palate is a bit sharp with acidity but overall berry aromas. The palate has a clampy, tannic feel for Malbec. The palate is angular and slightly the wine is well made and clean, with red berry, and snappy acids, while the flavors veer toward acidic, with juicy, spicy red-cherry flavors. Racy plum and other standard flavors. Defines good- red berry, herbs, coffee and mocha. Tight and and lean on the finish, with a final wash of cleans- ness while not pushing the envelope at all. tannic on the finish, and overall it’s short on body. ing acids. Imported by Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S. Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. —M.S.

High Note 2009 Elevated Malbec Viamonte 2009 Reserva Malbec Arido 2009 Malbec (Mendoza); 86 (Uco Valley); $10. High Note is a 86 (Maipú); $15. Quite woody for this 84 $10. More leafy and mulchy than ideal, dark, extracted type of Malbec with intense color, weight class, with balsam shavings and berry aro- with coffee, herbal notes and a light green quality robust black fruit aromas and a rich, deep palate mas that are distant. Chewy, lactic and creamy to the nose. The feel is starchy, and the flavors with core acidity and then monstrous, sweet across the tongue, with a flavor profile that brings run burnt, mildly green and sweet, with a pasty, berry flavors along the edges. It’s hefty, fat and chocolate and berry syrup flavors. Finishes with a sticky finish. Has some merit but also falls a little saturated, but also sweet and jammy. Delivers final wave of oaky spice and bitterness; good but short. Imported by San Francisco Wine quantity and volume for the price. Imported by needs more fruit. Imported by Casa Corbello, Exchange. —M.S. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. LLC. —M.S. Kaiken 2009 Malbec (Mendoza); Melipal 2008 Ikella Malbec (Men- Carlos Basso 2009 Dos Fincas Mal- 84 $14. Funky and sharp at first, with aro- 86 doza); $13. Opens with standard 85 bec (Mendoza); $13. Murky and mas of a dog fresh out of the rain. The palate is cherry/berry aromas, although with airing cheese leathery on first take, with dry, earthy red fruit choppy and a bit hot, with sharp, generic cherry notes and dill enter the picture. The palate is aromas emerging later on. The palate is fresh flavors along with some carob. Finishes with meaty in feel, with firm, tough, slightly roasted enough, with snappy acidity and tannic bite along angular, tart flavors and notes of coffee and plum and berry flavors. Finishes hot, with a bold with wan, mild fruit flavors and spice. Perfectly mocha. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. plum and berry character. Imported by TasteVino adequate but short on stuffing and depth. Selections. —M.S. Imported by Southern Wine Group. —M.S. Serrera 2008 Malbec (Mendoza); 84 $NA. Rubbery and muddled at first, Mendel 2008 Lunta Malbec (Men- Diseño 2009 Old Vine Malbec then more clarity arises with airing. The palate is 86 doza); $20. Chunky on the nose, but 85 (Mendoza); $11. Good wine but a firm, rather lean and acidic, with angular berry also sort of rubbery, brambly, pickled and leath- touch stemmy and burnt smelling. After the and cassis flavors. Finishes on the sharp side, with ery. The palate is stretched and strained, with brushy, herbal aromas comes a juicy, crisp red snappy, pointed acidity and crispness. Imported wiry acidity and piercing tannins supporting rub- fruit palate with raspberry and plum flavors but by TasteVino Selections. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 3 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Uva Negra 2007 Reserva Malbec and a tart, sheering mouthfeel and finish. Com- grabby finish. Too green and mean, especially for 84 (Mendoza); $16. Light and herbal on pared to previous vintages when this wine $20. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. the nose, with a dilute set of raspberry and straw- impressed, this is a loser. Barely drinkable, it’s so berry aromas. The palate has some creaminess lean and sour. Imported by Southern Wine but overall it tastes generic and baked, with Group. —M.S. BONARDA syrupy sweetness at its core. An average wine with jammy qualities and focus issues. Imported Salvatore Principe 2008 Artist’s Nieto Senetiner 2008 Limited Edi- by Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. 80 Collection Malbec (Cafayate); $10. 90 tion Reserva Bonarda (Mendoza); Rubbery and gassy smelling, with overtones of $28. Bold and packed to the gills with black fruit, Alma Mora 2008 Malbec (San green, herbaceous fruit. The palate is sharp and well-applied oak and rubbery, fresh tannins. As 83 Juan); $11. Earth and rubber aromas grating, with pie cherry, sour raspberry and green Bonarda goes, this is a clear winner; it’s blowsy dominate the nose, which isn’t what you’d call olive flavors. Turns herbal to excess and finishes and ribald on the nose, with tons of black fruit, fresh or inviting. The palate improves only substandard. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. coconut and mocha. The palate is firm but not slightly, with piercing acidity green-lean- —M.S. overly hard, with fig, black plum and length to ing plum and berry flavors. Oaky on the finish the finish. Drink now through 2012. Imported by and marginal overall. Imported by TasteVino Zorzal 2008 Reserve Malbec (Men- Winebow. —M.S. Selections. —M.S. 80 doza); $23. A scratchy, sheering wine that pushes up against sour. The palate is almost Alma Negra 2007 Bonarda (Men- Belasco de Baquedano 2009 all acid, and the flavors are underdeveloped, very Llama Old Vine Malbec (Luján de 89 doza); $22. Like a good Bonarda 82 tart and razor sharp. Clean but hard to deal with. Cuyo); $15. Roasted and leathery on the nose, should be, this is sweet, lush, dense and jammy Imported by Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. without much fruit. The palate is full, rubbery on the nose. The palate brings big tannins and a and baked tasting, with herbal berry flavors. Fin- slight rubbery mouthfeel, but the flavors of black ishes cooked and heavy as well, with a sauciness MERLOT cherry and wild berry are big, tasty and untamed. that overrides any freshness of fruit. A downer Full of power; needs airing upon opening but aging isn’t necessary. Includes 20% Malbec and compared to the fresher 2008 version. Imported Andeluna 2006 Reserve Merlot by Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. 10% Cab Franc. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. 86 (Tupungato); $20. Earthy and rub- bery, then more leafy and red, on the nose, with Camino del Inca 2008 Malbec Valle de la Puerta 2009 La Puerta raspberry and plum fruit. The palate has a solid, (Cafayate); $15. Roasted and muddy Alta Bonarda (Famatina Valley); 81 ordinary feel and jammy flavors of baked berry. 87 smelling, which isn’t uncommon for Cafayate $15. Starts out earthy and gaseous but the bou- Standard finish with a fast fade. Imported by San Malbec. The palate is heavy, murky and leafy, quet settles on round, full blackberry aromas. Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. with roasted beet and plum flavors. Saucy and Lush, grabby and full in the mouth, with bold herbal as well. Imported by Vino Del Sol. —M.S. Rutini 2006 Merlot (Mendoza); blackberry flavors that are clean, forward, uncomplicated and even a bit elegant. Tastes Nieto Senetiner 2008 Don Nicanor 86 $20. Slightly grassy and jammy on the nose, but otherwise you get basic cherry and good and comes across smooth and polished for 81 Malbec (Mendoza); $18. Black in Bonarda. Imported by Eco Valley. —M.S. color, with a severe, jammy nose that’s ominous raspberry aromas. The palate is medium bodied and a bit sharp in feel, with fresh, simple cherry and heavy. The look and bouquet portend the fla- Cavas de Chacras 2008 Reserve vors, which are thick, raisiny and pruney. This is and raspberry flavors. Tight and straightforward Bonarda (Mendoza); $12. Aromas of over-the-top heavy and extracted, with an inky on the finish, with a hint of spice and chocolate. 86 dark berry are potent but narrow and limited, outlook and subpar balance. Imported by Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. and there’s a slight note of minty grass as well. Winebow. —M.S. Bodega Norton 2007 Barrel Select The wine is juicy, bouncy and fresh in the mouth, Viña Cornejo Costas 2008 Don 82 Merlot (Mendoza); $14. Strained on with dark cherry and blackberry flavors. Simple, 81 Rodolfo Malbec (Cafayate); $10. the nose, with dirty fruit aromas, gaseousness and fruity and tasty, with good balance. Imported by Vegetal from start to finish, as the aromas begin candy. The palate is cloying and confected, with Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. with tomato and bell pepper. The palate is exactly muddy, jammy, herbal fruit flavors and a cooked, the same, with baked, earthy, sweet and green weedy finish. Bulky but not very good. Imported Tercos 2008 Bonarda (Mendoza); flavors. Feels gummy in the mouth, and it’s not by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 85 $12. Opens with grassy notes along with just herbal on the finish, it’s green. Imported by cleaner, fruitier cherry and cassis aromas. The Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. Bodega Norton 2007 Reserva palate is medium bodied, with forward, jammy 81 Merlot (Mendoza); $20. Herbal, flavors of blackberry. Finishes flush but simple, Familia Marguery 2009 Casa Mal- green, stemmy Merlot with sourness and com- with softness as opposed to a strong backbone of 80 bec (Mendoza); $15. Thin and sharp promised aromas, flavors and mouthfeel. Tastes heavy tannins. Imported by Global Vineyard as broken glass, with an herbal, sour flavor profile bitter and on the harsh side, with a narrow, Importers. —M.S.

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 then lifted, sweet flavors of jammy raspberry and snappy, tarry black-fruit flavors. Feels rugged, CABERNET SAUVIGNON cassis. The fruit here is riper than many ’08 Cabs, rough and tannic but gets the job done in its and while it’s a bit lean in feel, it tastes good and price range. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.S. Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 offers ample spice for balance. Imported by Casa 92 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon Corbello, LLC. —M.S. Alamos 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza); $50. Deep, lush, balanced and 84 (Mendoza); $13. Big, rubbery and oaky, with bacon, floral notes and huge raspberry Tilia 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon smoky, with exotic fruit aromas that seem roasted. and cassis aromas. Layered and structured across 86 (Mendoza); $9. Big and purple, with The palate is tough, tannic and clipped, with the palate, with concentration and balance to go ripe aromas of black fruits and bacon. The mouth herbal, thick flavors of berry, baking spices and with lusty cassis, blackberry, mocha and spice fla- is filling and full, with oaky blackberry, coffee and coffee. Finishes big but flat and hard, with lasting vors. Finishes toasty and dark, with waves of mildly roasted flavors. Turns more lush and soft herbal flavors. Imported by E & J Gallo. —M.S. espresso and mocha. Now–2015. Imported by on the finish, which is long and tastes of fig paste Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.S. and prunes. Gets it done for the most part. Finca Decero 2008 Remolinos Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. 84 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Bodega Catena Zapata 2008 (Agrelo); $20. Warm and saucy aromas suggest 89 Catena Cabernet Sauvignon Alta Vista 2009 Classic Cabernet a bit of leafiness and volatility. The palate is (Mendoza); $20. A dark and toasty specimen 85 Sauvignon (Mendoza); $12. Full rather tannic and somewhat hot, with leafy, with a deep-purple tint and aromas of oak, butter but roasted and rubbery, with baked berry aro- herbal cherry and raspberry flavors. Finishes sim- and powerful blackberry fruit. The palate is tex- mas leading to a thick, semistewed palate with ilarly, with pepper and herbal flavors. Imported tured and rich, with thick, smoky flavors of black dark berry and vanilla flavors. The palate is big by Vintus LLC. —M.S. fruits and peppery spice. Pours on the oak but in but choppy, and the finish is also thick and tannic. an integrated way; very good for varietal Cab Definitely round and meaty, but slips to the stewy Finca Sophenia 2009 Altosur from 2008. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. side. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato); $12. Lean, mildly green aromas offer minimal Septima 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Doña Paula 2008 Estate Cabernet fruit, and there’s a salinic, swimming pool set of 87 gnon (Mendoza); $12. Concen- 85 Sauvignon (Mendoza); $15. Starts aromas as well. The palate is fairly thick and solid, trated, dark and clean for a basic 2008 Cabernet, out mildly murky and leafy, with a leathery, dry with big tannins and flavors of candied fruits and with full but generic berry aromas and a pinch of nose. The palate is herbal, tight and juicy due to a carob that lean toward green. Shows big body rubber. The body is good and so is the structure, high acid level, with red berry and peppery, and weight, but the nose is only fair while the fla- and overall the wine’s roasted berry flavors blend mildly herbal flavors. A good, average wine with vors are herbal. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. well with sweet vanilla and caramel. Very good oak showing up on the finish. Imported by Vine- —M.S. for value-priced Argentine CS. Imported by yard Brands. —M.S. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Finca Sophenia 2009 Reserve Espuela del Gaucho 2009 Caber- 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato); Siesta 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon 85 net Sauvignon (Mendoza); $13. $18. Smells foxy and broken up, with a slight 87 (Mendoza); $20. Smoky, dark, rich Lightly herbal and red in character, with tomato stemminess. The palate is tannic and drawing, and very oaky, with leather and cheese aromas. and raspberry aromas. The palate is snappy and with generic black fruit flavors that are candied This is one concentrated, tannic bruiser; it’s fully emphasizes freshness, while the flavors are herbal with brown sugar and molasses. Sweet, rough, extracted and roasted, with blackberry, molasses, and leafy, with plenty of red berry and cherry. tough and like 1,000 others. Will do best with pepper and coffee flavors. A lush, round, jammy Snappy and pointed, with a leafy overriding per- food, which should absorb some of the tannic specimen that pours on richness in place of ele- sonality. Imported by Winery Exchange. —M.S. shock. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. gance and sophistication. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. Melipal 2008 Ikella Cabernet Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 85 Sauvignon (Mendoza); $13. Dark, 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza); Alberti 154 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- rubbery aromas include black cherry, leather and $10. Earthy aromas mix with high-toned red 86 gnon (Mendoza); $13. Scratchy on cheesy notes. The palate is fairly high in acid, fruit scents, while the palate is narrow and linear, the nose, with raspberry and plum aromas. The producing juiciness but also tartness and a lean, with mildly green, saucy flavors that crowd out palate has a generic, rubbery feel and sweet, stan- sinewy body housing snappy cherry, spice and mild red fruit notes that fight to enter the pic- dard cherry, cassis and plum flavors. Medicinal herbal flavors. Good but prickly. Imported by ture. Herbal on the finish, but not offensive or and rubbery on the finish, but will go well with TasteVino Selections. —M.S. difficult to drink. Imported by Moët Hennessy basic foods like pizza, spaghetti or a burger. USA. —M.S. Imported by Southern Wine Group. —M.S. Ruca Malen 2009 Yauquén Caber- 85 net Sauvignon (Mendoza); $12. Uva Negra 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Medanos 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Rather jammy, murky and generic on the nose, 84 gnon (Mendoza); $12. Dark purple 86 gnon (Mendoza); $19. Firm and with black-fruit aromas that center around plum in color, with a simple, candied, somewhat leathery smelling, with a drying, oaky nose and and blackberry. The palate is edgy but fresh, with strained nose. The palate feels sharp while the

WineMag.com | 4 1 BUYING I GUIDE acidity-tannin combo creates a narrowing mouth- aggressive flavors of bacon, smoke, roasted black- Cheval des Andes 2006 Mendoza; feel. Flavors are roasted, herbal and lemony, berry and savory spices. It finishes well, with 92 $70. Full, dense and dark, with power- while the finish is jumpy and edgy. Imported by freshness along with a dark, smoky tail. Imported ful berry aromas and hints of rubber and leather Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. by T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. on the bouquet. The palate breathes complexity and style but also raw power, and the flavors of Viamonte 2009 Roble Cabernet Alberti 154 2009 Syrah (Luján de blackberry, fig paste and herbs are just lusty and 84 Sauvignon (Maipú); $13. Hefty but 86 Cuyo); $13. Rubbery, tarry and quite rich enough to register as modern Mendoza. kind of flat on the bouquet, with tomato and herb black in nature, with a full-bodied mouthfeel and Classy and deep; best from 2011–2015. A Mal- aromas. The palate has tannic bite and dark, can- meaty, spicy dark-berry flavors. This ranks as a bec-Cabernet-Petit Verdot blend. Imported by died flavors of sweet berry and burnt brown voluminous wine with a heavy disposition; it’s Moët Hennessy USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S. sugar. Finishes peppery, with a lingering candied, sweet and spicy late, with generic bold-fruit char- burnt sweetness. Imported by Casa Corbello, Felipe Rutini 2006 Apartado acter throughout. Imported by Southern Wine LLC. —M.S. (Mendoza); $70. Oaky, creamy and a Group. —M.S. 91 bit lactic on the nose, with an easy style to the Benegas 2007 Luna Benegas palate and ripe, sweet flavors of blackberry and Zuccardi 2009 Serie A Syrah (Men- Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza); black cherry that are delicious but lack complex- 83 doza); $15. Chunky, earthy, malty and $14. Raw on the nose, with a hard, tannic palate 86 ity. Finishes big, syrupy and sweet, with a spot of fruity all at the same time, but clacky and tough in that features sweet black-fruit flavors, a chemical raisin. Really good for a blend of Malbec, Caber- burn and raisin. The more time you spend with it, the mouth, with big, grabby tannins supporting net and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2013. the darker and more raisiny it becomes. Finishes generic black fruit flavors. An aggressive, hard Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. roasted, with licorice and rock-hard tannins. wine with sappy, jammy flavors; it delivers full kick Imported by Vias Imports. —M.S. and size. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. Septima 2008 Gran Reserva (Men- 91 doza); $25. Despite tough vintage con- Carlos Basso 2009 Reservado Finca Sophenia 2009 Reserve ditions, Bodega Septima got this blend of 83 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza); 85 Syrah (Tupungato); $18. Bold and Malbec, Cabernet and Tannat right. The nose is $16. An odd bird on the nose, where floral, minty, with no shortage of tarry, rubbery black- dark, solid and full of attractive black fruit and lavender aromas replace the normal set of cassis fruit aromas. The palate is full, meaty, tough and coconut aromas. Lush and a mile deep on the and berry. In the mouth, it’s so tannic that it’s like tannic, with heat and candied, confected flavors palate, with sultry, smoky, dark flavors of black- chewing nails; the flavors, therefore, seem that suggest chocolate-covered cherry and kirsch. berry, licorice and spice. A chewy, rich and bal- choppy and hard, like roasted blackberry and Finishes sweet and candied, with average struc- anced wine; drink now through 2014. Imported sugar beets. Very woody and mentholated, too. ture and stuffing. Imported by Buena Cepa by Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. Imported by Southern Wine Group. —M.S. Wines. —M.S. Fantelli 2003 Serie Magno Gran Bodega Vistandes 2009 Alto Las Condor’s Summit 2009 Syrah 90 Reserva (Mendoza); $15. Here’s a 82 Tacas Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- 82 (Famatina Valley); $10. Sweet cotton Bordeaux-style blend to snap up if you’re lucky doza); $10. Weak and brambly smelling, with candy and mocha aromas are confected and work enough to find it. It’s a definite re-issue in that it mustardy aromas along with leathery red-fruit to obscure a high-acid, sour-tasting palate that was first released at $25 in 2006 but was put back scents. The palate is astringent, with tomato, basil on the market last year at $15. And what a bar- offers a slight hint of chocolate and mint. More and stewed berry flavors. Finishes in similar fash- gain it is: Earth, tar and tobacco vie with dried oak comes up on the finish, and overall this is a ion. Imported by Belmont Select Wines. —M.S. cherry and raspberry on the nose and palate; the ghost of a wine with little to latch onto. Imported finish is long, elegant and dry. A mature, classy by Peyton Imports. —M.S. Bodegas Borbore 2009 Martin wine to drink now. Imported by Kensington Dis- 80 Fierro Cabernet Sauvignon (Tulum tributors Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Valley); $10. Weird, green, spicy and odd BLENDED REDS smelling, with hard, green raisiny flavors and an Viña Alicia 2007 Morena (Luján de herbal finish. Barely acceptable; not varietally Cuyo); $30. Very clean, smooth and Bodega Catena Zapata 2007 Nico- 90 sound or interesting. Imported by RV Distribu- inviting. Every piece is in place, and the wine las Catena Zapata (Mendoza); tors. —M.S. 94 flows from nose to palate to finish with ease and $120. A ripe, modern success with everything a comfort. Flavors of black cherry, cassis and black- fan of New World reds might want. The nose is berry are creamy and deep, with a hint of vanilla SYRAH floral and beautiful, with fine oak scents support- sweetness and oak. Warm and chewy as well. ing brilliant raspberry, plum and spice aromas. Cabernet Sauvignon with 12% Cab Franc; drink Pascual Toso 2009 Syrah (Men- It’s deep, smooth and pressing in the mouth, with now. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. 88 doza); $12. Minty, oaky and spicy up a delicious set of blackberry, coconut, vanilla and front, with cherry and berry aromas that are creamy flavors. A beauty to drink now through Weinert 2006 Carrascal (Men- potent. The palate is lush, flush and tannic, with 2017. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. 90 doza); $22. A bit rusty in color and

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 mature, but that’s what makes this wine different enough acidity to keep it pumping. Pretty good The Wait 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- than most. It’s earthy, a bit leathery and muddled, and perfectly drinkable, but a little over the edge. 83 gnon-Syrah (Mendoza); $13. Light and slightly baked. But it’s also subdued, mellow Imported by Eco Valley. —M.S. and tomatoey in color, with dry, cheesy, earthy and sturdy, with lighter tannins and hints of herbs aromas. The palate is dilute but has sticky tan- to go with finely roasted berry and tomato fla- Zuccardi 2007 Zeta (Mendoza); nins, and the flavors are tangy, citrusy and not vors. Integrated, long and spicy late. Drink now 87 $45. Minty and heavily oaked, with overly sound. Finishes roasted and clumsy. An through 2012. Imported by Broadbent Selec- creamy aromas of vanilla bean, milk chocolate awkward wine. Imported by Testa Wines Of The tions, Inc. —M.S. and raisiny sweetness. The palate smacks down World. —M.S. with a tight, rubbery feel and then unleashes Alma Negra 2007 Gran Misterio heavy, toasty flavors of herbal berry fruit, raw oak 89 (Mendoza); $80. Dark as night, with and mocha. Good for a rich, robust wine but it ARGENTINA shoe polish, coconut and powerful black-fruit doesn’t excel and it seems a little out of balance. aromas. This is jammy, dense, soft and not for Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. WHITE WINES aging, but it does deliver a truck load of toasted coffee, blackberry, molasses and crisped brown Serrera 2008 Del Pecado Cabernet CHARDONNAY sugar. Supersweet, rich and made to drink now. 86 Sauvignon-Malbec (Mendoza); Imported by Winebow. —M.S. $12. Starts out rubbery and gaseous, but airing Bodega Catena Zapata 2009 Catena Chardonnay (Mendoza); helps it along. The palate is regular in feel, with 87 Alta Vista 2008 Atemporal (Men- $20. no glaring faults, while the flavors of berry fruits, A touch creamy and showing fresh corn and doza); $25. 89 Woody and smelling of oak and herbal shadings are easygoing. Finishes haystack on the nose, but in the mouth it’s plump, sawdust early, this four-grape blend eases toward with toast, herbal notes and a mild baked sweet- good and mild, with fleshy white fruit flavors sit- roasted berry, cassis, herbal plum and molten ting in front of a smooth, lightly pithy finish. Yes, ness. Imported by TasteVino Selections. —M.S. chocolate. It’s massive and structured, with a big- it’s another warm-climate tropical Chardonnay. boned skeleton and heat on the leathery, roasted Carmelo Patti 2003 Gran Assem- But it’s a good one that’s easy to drink. Imported finish due to 15.5% alcohol. Big, fiery, saucy and by Winebow. —M.S. blage (Mendoza); $55. Initially you lusty, but short on refinement and elegance. 85 get nothing but herbs, spice and tomato off this Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 Bordeaux blend. The nose deals bell pepper, red Chardonnay (Mendoza); $10. pepper flake and tomato such that it smells more 87 Vistalba 2007 Corte B (Mendoza); Clean and tropical, and not too heavy, oily or like chimichurri than wine. But with airing it $23. After a rubbery opening, this blend chunky. The nose is pure lemon, pear and apple, 89 improves to reveal dry strawberry, cherry and of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda while the flavor profile revolves around citrus, herbal spice flavors. More saucy, green and picks up steam and freshens up significantly. Aro- apple and honey in the center. Finishes sweeter savory than fruity, and probably past its prime; mas of sly dried berry take over, leading to a full, than it starts, but with dry papaya for balance. but still it’s offering some mature class and style. flush palate of plum, raspberry and raisin. Comes Good everyday Chardonnay from Argentina, Imported by Southern Wine Group. —M.S. around the more time you spend with it. something we don’t see too often. Imported by Imported by San Francisco Wine Exchange. — Moët Hennessy USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Colomé 2008 Amalaya (Calchaqui M.S. 85 Valley); $17. A Malbec-led blend that’s Tilia 2009 Chardonnay (Mendoza); Viña El Cerno 2003 Filósofos off the grid by Argentine standards but which 87 $9. Light, airy, tropical and very nice for 88 (Maipú); $60. Opens with candied, reflects the northern Salta region. The nose is an under-$10 Argentine Chardonnay. The nose chocolaty aromas that contradict its age. In the earthy, herbal, roasted and tomatoey, while the is nice and easy, while the flavors of orange, mouth, it’s mature although the structure is palate is astringent and roasted, with herbal, spicy melon and lychee are tropical but seem right for breaking up; nonetheless, it’s interesting and flavors of tomato, bell pepper and baked berries. the wine’s body and acidity. Easygoing as they attractive, with herb, raspberry, tea, tobacco and Long and baked on the finish, with a slight fiery come, with a hint of sweetness on the finish. chocolate flavors. Overall it’s a different breed, feel. Imported by Hess Collection. —M.S. Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. and despite having lost its structure it’s sly and well worth a go. Drink now. Imported by Casa Familia Los Agüeros 2007 Pre- Bodega Catena Zapata 2008 Corbello, LLC. —M.S. 83 mium Made With Organic Grapes 86 Catena Alta Chardonnay (Men- Blend de Familia (Mendoza); $15. Fairly doza); $34. Waxy and warm, with peach, sweet Valle de la Puerta 2007 La Puerta muddled and earthy at first blush, with a leafy, ham, spice and vanilla aromas. As Catena Alta 87 Gran Reserva (Famatina Valley); raisiny, burnt set of aromas. Tastes and feels goes, this is not stellar. In fact, it’s light on fruit $40. Bold and pruney, with herbal, soft, ultra- mealy, with roasted cherry and raspberry flavors and lacks the depth of flavor and punch you’d ripe aromas in front of a jumpy yet partially and then a leathery finish. Hints at quality but hope to see from a $34 wine. What you get is a stewed palate. This blend of Malbec with doesn’t bring it home; and it seems tired. fleshy, soft Chard with mild peach, papaya and Bonarda and Syrah is your typical huge, tannic Imported by USA-Mendoza Valley Group, LLC. melon flavors, and then a whack of finishing oak. bruiser with big extract, huge tannins and just —M.S. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 4 3 BUYING I GUIDE

Pascual Toso 2010 Chardonnay lime, green-apple notes and tropical shadings. palate feels pithy and chalky, with generic citrus 86 (Mendoza); $12. Simple, well made Not bad for the price. Imported by Tastings flavors and then citrus pith on the back end. Fin- and tropical, with a touch of oak. The palate is Import Company. —M.S. ishes with more pithiness and white grapefruit. zesty, citric and healthy, with pineapple and Imported by TasteVino Selections. —M.S. orange flavors along with a pinch of star anise, Los Nevados 2009 Chardonnay vanillin and pith. Finishes fresh and juicy, with 83 (Mendoza); $10. Vanilla and toast aro- Condor’s Summit 2008 Pinot Gri- mild vanilla shadings. Imported by T.G.I.C. mas are prominent but the fruit is so subdued 83 gio (Famatina Valley); $10. Neutral Importers. —M.S. that overall the wine is out to lunch. Snappy and smelling with a hint of lemon-lime and children’s showing okay acidity in the mouth, but the flavors vitamin. The palate is wet but doesn’t bring much Viña Cobos 2009 Felino Chardon- are dull and melony, with toasty vanilla notes that more in the way of feel, while the flavors are flat, 85 nay (Mendoza); $20. Smells a bit don’t help it enough. Imported by Matadorvino melony and hint at apple. This wine is old by PG heavy, oily and like dry cornflakes. The palate is LLC. —M.S. standards but not yet dead. It’s hanging in there. straightforward, with tropical, candied flavors of Imported by Peyton Imports. —M.S. mango, banana and sweet melon. Sweetness is Piattelli 2009 Premium Chardon- the key here; it’s all over the palate and finish. 83 nay (Tupungato); $13. Smells resiny Imported by Paul Hobbs Winery. —M.S. and a touch chemical, with cornflakes and vanilla TORRONTÉS bean notes. The palate is resiny and dusty, with Bodega Norton 2010 Chardonnay sweet, candied, vanilla-infused flavors that crowd Filus 2010 Torrontés (Salta); $13. 84 (Mendoza); $10. Light and airy, with out any fruit that might want to make a stand. 88 A pretty white wine with lively aromas, orange blossom and powdered sugar aromas. The Finishes with faux oak notes and more vanilla. flavors and feel. The bouquet issues attractive palate is round and offers enough crisp acidity to Imported by Vinocopia. —M.S. lychee, melon and vanilla cream aromas, while keep the wine’s lychee and lemon-lime flavors the palate flows forth with apple, melon and moving in the right direction. Reasonably good Rutini 2010 Trumpeter Chardon- exotic citrus flavors. Just spicy enough on the tail for ten bucks. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. 83 nay (Mendoza); $12. Neutral on the end, with a lasting taste of lychee fruit. Delicate, —M.S. nose except for mild hay and/or straw aromas. solid and fresh. Imported by Bronco Wine Com- The palate is a bit weighty for being so short on pany. Best Buy. —M.S. O. Fournier 2008 Urban Uco flavor. Speaking of which, the wine is clean but 84 Chardonnay (Mendoza); $12. A bit tastes hollow, with only sparse flavors of peach Zolo 2010 Torrontés (Mendoza); gaseous on the nose, with cidery apple aromas. and nectarine registering. Imported by Pasternak 88 $11. A nice, clean, fairly complex white The palate is waxy, oily and heavy, with chunky Wine Imports. —M.S. is what this is. The nose is all lychee and jasmine, melon and papaya flavors. Meaty and full-bodied and it’s not at all heavy or oily. The palate is for a value-priced Chard, but also heavy and bouncy and fresh, with a tropical mix of lychee, struggling for balance. Imported by Fine Estates PINOT GRIGIO melon and papaya flavors. Agile on the finish. From Spain. —M.S. Imported by Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. Argento 2010 Cool Climate Selec- Rutini 2008 Chardonnay (Men- 86 tion Pinot Grigio (Mendoza); $13. Pascual Toso 2010 Torrontés (Men- 84 doza); $20. Fairly bland on the nose, Modest, minerally and clean, with mild dusty 87 doza); $12. Having tasted the previous with only a pinch of mild peach and candle wax. apple aromas. The palate is pillowy and comfort- vintages and not liking them all that much, I can The palate is full but wholly generic in terms of able, with just enough acidity to push up the safely say that this 2010 is a much better, cleaner, flavors: look for sweet pineapple in front of a soft, apple, green grape and white plum flavors. Fin- more varietally correct version of Torrontés. It’s almost cloying finish. Drink now. Imported by ishes similarly, with a sweet lasting impression. clean, fresh and defined by light aromas and fla- Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. Imported by Lion Nathan USA, Inc.. —M.S. vors of lime and green melon. Juicy and soda-like on the finish. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. Tapiz 2010 Chardonnay (Men- Funky Llama 2010 Pinot Grigio Best Buy. —M.S. 84 doza); $15. Chunky on the nose, with 85 (Mendoza); $7. Clean, timid and mel- flat aromas of apple and peach. The palate has a ony on the nose, with an emphasis on clean. Bodega Norton 2010 Lo Tengo melony feel and sweet flavors of mango and man- Fresh and light in the mouth, and tasty despite 86 Torrontés (Mendoza); $11. Simple darin orange. Finishes sort of heavy and tropical, being 100% uncomplicated. Flavors of sweet and light, with orange blossom aromas. The with a little leftover heat. Good enough but apple, pear and citrus are pleasant and should palate is clean, zesty and citric, with apple, lime highly regular. Imported by Vino Del Sol. —M.S. carry mass appeal. Good for an everyday white and lychee flavors. Chalky on the finish and quaffer. Imported by Tastings Import Company. cleansing. For casual sipping. Imported by Funky Llama 2010 Chardonnay Best Buy. —M.S. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. 83 (Mendoza); $7. Floral, sweet and powdery smelling, but pleasant. The palate is Alma Mora 2009 Pinot Grigio (San Medrano 2010 Estate Torrontés light and airy, with hardly any punch or kick. But 84 Juan); $11. Smells a bit waxy and 86 (Salta); $10. Tropical and typical for that serves it well, and amid the sheets there’s grassy, with mild, distant white-fruit aromas. The the variety, with lychee and oily match stick on

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 the nose. The palate is competent, with lemon- lime, apple and spiced Asian pear flavors. Dries out nicely on the finish; good Torrontés to drink as soon as possible. Imported by Bronco Wine Company. Best Buy. —M.S.

Tukma 2009 Reserva Torrontés 86 (Cafayate); $15. Pungent aromas of citrus range from lemon to orange, and there’s also an oily element to the bouquet. The palate has a highly regular, almost lazy feel to it along with flavors of pithy citrus and nectarine pit. Fin- ishes lemony and melony. Imported by Mata- dorvino LLC. —M.S.

Rutini 2010 Trumpeter Torrontés 85 (Mendoza); $12. Neutral smelling other than a hint of peach and vanilla on the bou- quet. Comes across a bit heavy and warm, but not too much so. Flavors of soft melon are appealing, and the finish is fleshy. Drink now before it loses its spunk. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S.

Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 85 Reserva Unoaked Torrontés (Salta); $10. Aromas of buttercup, melon and lychee maintain their basic freshness but seem on the heavy side. The palate is similar; it’s both chalky and heavy. Flavors of apple, melon and nectarine are solid but slightly bitter, and the fin- ish is grabby and sticky. Imported by Moët Hen- nessy USA. —M.S.

Bodega Goulart 2010 Torrontés 84 (Luján de Cuyo); $12. A little stinky and oily, which is often the downfall of the vari- ety. The palate has a viscous grab to it and the fla- vors are rather generic and rudimentary, i.e. simple apple and melon with a mild chemical burn. Seems only semifresh at a young age. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S.

O. Fournier 2009 Urban Uco Tor- 84 rontés (Cafayate); $11. Tropical and blowsy on the nose. The palate is now chunky and heavy, while the flavors are mustardy and oily, with fruit notes that fall into the melon, peach and orange field. Flat and short on the fin- ish, which indicates that it’s already fading. Better to wait for the 2010. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 4 5 BUYING I GUIDE

Piattelli 2009 Premium Torrontés Rust en Vrede 2007 Estate Red 84 (Cafayate); $13. Other than showing SOUTH AFRICA 91 (Stellenbosch); $40. A heady and orange and tangerine, the nose is a bit too much concentrated Cab-based blend with 30% Shiraz like air freshener. In the mouth, it’s wet but on RED WINES and 9% Merlot. Intense aromas of blackberry, the hollow side, with dilute innocuous flavors. cassis, cedar spice and rich espresso grinds fill CABERNETS & BLENDS the bouquet, while black cherry, plum, cured Decent but low on flavor; seemingly fading. meat and soft bramble unfold in the mouth. Full Imported by Vinocopia. —M.S. Vilafonté 2007 Series C (Paarl); and tightly structured with firm tannins and a lin- $50. A beautifully balanced and gering finish; drink now to 2012. Imported by Trapiche 2009 Broquel Torrontés 93 nuanced wine. The aromas are heady and thick Terlato Wines International. —L.B. (Cafayate); $15. 84 Mildly tropical on the but still vibrant, displaying juicy notes of black nose, but for the most part the bouquet lacks cherry, black raspberry sauce and semidried fig Warwick 2007 Estate Reserve (Tril- punch. The palate has friction and an oily feel, laced with accents of bittersweet chocolate, 91 ogy) (Stellenbosch); $30. This is a while the flavors are generic as they suggest apple tobacco and white pepper. The texture is like gorgeous Bordeaux-style blend that grabs you and lime. Chalky and kind of bland on the finish; crushed satin, with well-integrated tannins and a right from the start with a decadent nose of black seems to be fading. Imported by Frederick Wild- creamy mouthfeel. Touches of licorice root and currant liqueur, toasted coconut, black cherry, man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. smoky cedar spice augment the dark fruit on the cedar and a hint of purple African violet florals. lengthy finish. Drink now–2014. Imported by The mouth is round but not fat, with a firm but Palo Alto 2009 Coiron Torrontés Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. not unyielding structure followed by a toffee- 83 (Maipú); $11. Neutral on the nose kissed finish that lingers endlessly. Drink Glenelly 2008 Lady May Cabernet except for a smidgen of lychee and citrus. The now–2015. Imported by Broadbent Selections, Sauvignon (Simonsberg-Stellen- palate is standard and generic, with bland peach, 92 Inc. —L.B. bosch); $50. It’s really a shame that only 25 melon and pithy flavors. Finishes light and cases of this wine were imported, as it’s a fantastic Glenelly 2008 The Glass Collection peachy, with weight and fading acidity. Imported Cab that’s sure to compare favorably to some of Cabernet Sauvignon (Western by Casa Corbello, LLC. —M.S. 90 your favorites. Black currant leaf, fennel, crushed Cape); $18. The aromas are promisingly thick violet and dried tobacco are intricately woven and chewy, with assertive notes of black cherry, Tilia 2009 Torrontés (Salta); $10. into the dark fruit aromas. The medium-weight cigar tobacco and bittersweet chocolate. The Loud, oily and almost caustic on the 82 mouth has a texture like crushed velvet, with firm creamy mouth delivers more of the same along- nose, with a chemical burn. The palate is better tannins and assertive flavors of cassis, cigar and side additional elements of cassis, pepper and due to its tangy citric flavors, but it’s still jumbled espresso that linger endlessly. Strong and a bit leathery spice. The mocha-infused finish leaves and oily, and the finish leaves a burnt-tasting tight; try holding another 2–5 years. Imported by little else to be desired; drink now. Imported by residue. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Cape Classics. Cellar Selection. —L.B. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.

Bodega Vistandes 2009 Alto Las Vilafonté 2007 Series M (Paarl); Muratie 2007 Ansela Van de Caab 81 Tacas Torrontés (Mendoza); $10. 92 $35. Although this might be second to 90 (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch); $35. Smells like corn and a burning hay field, and the the Series C, it’s still up there in terms of high Vibrant, attractive notes of red cherry, plum, palate has little to no fruit left. The mouthfeel is quality and class. Red plum, fresh fig and subtle raspberry sauce and licorice root draw you in wet and grabby, while the finish is bready then blueberry are augmented by glimmers of licorice immediately, and continue on to the palate along- and earthy spice. The mouth is full and as for- turns bitter. On its last legs; wait for 2010. side complementary accents of sweet spice and ward as the nose, loaded with thick juicy fruit fla- white pepper. Medium weight in the mouth with Imported by Belmont Select Wines. —M.S. vors that lead gracefully into the raspberry mash grippy tannins and a strong finish. Imported by and tobacco infused finish. Drink now–2013. Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. OTHER WHITE WINES Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. Black Pearl 2008 Oro Cabernet Cederberg 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- Sauvignon-Shiraz (Paarl); $18. The Viña Alicia 2009 Tiara White 89 gnon (Cederberg); $40. Cocoa ’08 Oro is Cab dominant while the ’07 favored Blend (Luján de Cuyo); $30. A 91 84 dusted black raspberry, black currant and plum Shiraz, a difference that seems to be an improve- blend of Riesling, Albariño and Savagnin that’s aromas up front transition to flavors of blackberry ment. Rich and concentrated with lovely dark more novel than impressive. The nose offers light and fudgy brownie. Creamy and full in the mouth plum, cassis and black raspberry components citrus and spice, the body is creamy and soft, and with medium tannins and a velvety texture. coupled with accents of tree bark, sweet spice the palate sweet with papaya, melon and pineap- Approachable now, but pair with a good steak or and soft cigar tobacco. Fresh and lush all at once; ple. Creamy on the finish as well, and low in acid- fatty game like shoulder lamb chops for balance. easy to drink now or can hold for a year or two. ity. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Rustenberg 2007 John X Merri- Saronga 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- of the finish. Drink now. Imported by Frederick 89 man (Stellenbosch); $30. Strong aro- 86 gnon (Paarl); $10. Earthy notes of Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B. mas of cassis, cocoa nibs, fresh mint sprigs, black tree bark and licorice root lift the cassis and black currant leaf and licorice are the first things you plum aromas and flavors. Simple but well struc- Lions Drift 2008 Silkbush Moun- experience with this wine. After that, the creamy tured with medium tannins and a solid finish. 88 tain Vineyards (Breedek- mouth provides loads of black berry, plum and Imported by MJM Imports. Best Buy. —L.B. loof); $15. There’s a nice herbal earthiness anise flavors that stay through the finish. A firmly here, giving a rustic and intriguing feel to this structured and well-balanced Bordeaux-style Rietvallei Estate Wine 2009 John otherwise ripe, dark-fruit-dominant wine. Black blend. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. 85 B. Cabernet Sauvignon-Tinta plum, cherry and berry fill the midpalate, while Barocca (Robertson); $9. An interesting tobacco and pepper spice take center stage on Beau Joubert 2008 Cabernet blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Tinta the finish. Approachable and lively now with 87 Sauvignon (Stellenbosch); $17. Barocca, this is a light and fruit-forward wine good balance and soft tannins. Imported by Nice licorice and black currant scents fill the bou- that’s easy pleasing and very drinkable. Notes of South Atlantic Wines. —L.B. quet, with a touch of mentholy bramble adding red berries and plum unfold throughout, with a some flair. The palate is bright and fruit forward, touch of smoke on the finish. Imported by Con- Southern Right 2008 Pinotage (Walker Bay); $27. the dominating dark fruit flavors lifted by pep- fluence Wine Importers. Best Buy. —L.B. 88 Superbly full and pery spice. Medium weight with soft tannins and heady, the ripe black plum and dark raspberry Makulu 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon a solid finish. Imported by Metrowine Distribu- notes mingle seamlessly with accents of spiced (Western Cape); $6. tion. —L.B. 84 Accents of mint cigar tobacco and graham cracker crumbs and bay leaves integrate with the jammy black throughout. The mouthfeel could use a bit more Boekenhoutskloof 2009 Porcupine berry and cassis aromas. More plum and pepper heft, but the finish is clean and satisfying. Bal- 87 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon flavors appear in the mouth, and stay through to anced, soft and ready to drink now. Imported by the spicy finish. Drink up. Imported by Prestige Vineyard Brands. —L.B. (Coastal Region); $13. Dark and moody, with Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. aromas of bramble, blackberry, coffee grinds and Neethlingshof 2008 The Short cocoa powder. The medium-weight mouth is Story Collection The Owl Post loaded with black plum and cherry flavors with a 87 PINOTAGE Pinotage (Stellenbosch); $25. With the Owl soft black pepper finish. Drink now. Imported by Post being a reference to their preferred method Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Beyerskloof 2007 Diesel Pinotage of pest management, this is a welcome new (Stellenbosch); $NA. A beautiful release from Neethlingshof. Notes of purple Lynx 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 example of 100% Pinotage. Gorgeous aromas of flowers, black cherry, fudgy brownie and soft (Franschhoek); $20. Surprisingly light 87 cassis, black berry and plum abound from this lanolin appear in the bouquet and medium- and vibrant smelling with aromas of raspberry, deep red wine. Firmly structured but approach- weight mouth. Balanced acidity and soft tannins red plum skin and iris. A touch of pepper and able with the potential to age gracefully another linger through to the solid finish. Drink now. cocoa unfold on the finish. Approachable and a three to five years. Unsweetened cocoa and con- Imported by Cape Legends. —L.B. good choice for a beef pot-luck dinner with centrated dark fruit linger through the lengthy friends. Drink now. Imported by Southern Starz, finish. Imported by Cape Wine Match. —L.B. Ernst Gouws & Co. 2008 Pinotage Inc. —L.B. 83 (Coastal Region); $11. Soft and easy Bosman Family Vineyards 2008 to drink with mild aromas of red plum skin, wet MAN Vintners 2009 Cabernet 90 Pinotage (Wellington); $45. Riper ash and a touch of sweet spice on the end. Short Sauvignon (Coastal Region); $11. 86 and richer than most Pinotage, with loads of but accessible and to the point. Drink now. Accessible and available, this is a great value wine decadent berry preserves, caramel sauce and Imported by Vinum International. —L.B. that’s perfectly suited to grilled steak dinners with melted dark chocolate aromas. The lushness car- friends. Juicy dark fruit dominates the palate, ries through to the mouth, with a round mouth- with accents of bittersweet chocolate and pep- feel full of dark fruit with accents of leather and SHIRAZ pery spice glimmering on the back of finish. cigar box. The peppery finish leaves a satisfying Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. spicy note lingering in your mouth through the Saxenburg Estate 2006 Private close. Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B. 90 Collection Shiraz (Stellenbosch); Roodeberg 2007 Red (Western $20. Dark and wild, aromas of black berry and 86 Cape); $13. A touch green and herbal Backsberg 2008 Pinotage (Coastal raspberry are intertwined with notes of whole with notes of black plum, black currant leaf, a 88 Region); $14. Black berry and plum tobacco leaf, sweet spice and a hint of licorice on touch of pepper and used coffee grinds. Medium aromas hit you first, followed by backnotes of the nose. The palate is lush and concentrated, weight in the mouth with assertive tannins and a rubber and tobacco ash. Soft on the palate with loaded with more dark fruit flavors that are lifted sweet smoke-infused finish. Imported by Opici ripe dark fruit and fine-grain tannins. A touch of by accents of white pepper, smoked meat and a Wines. —L.B. coffee and sweet cured meat appears on the end mocha-infused finish. Balanced and decadent

WineMag.com | 4 7 BUYING I GUIDE with an overall creaminess. Imported by MJM Indaba 2009 Shiraz (Western flavors framing licorice and sweet spice back Imports. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. 84 Cape); $10. Red berry preserves and notes. Robust and spicy with a strong cocoa fla- plum guts lead the way on this easy-going Shi- vored finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Backsberg 2007 Pumphouse Shi- raz. Soft tannins and ripe fruit flavors continue Company. —L.B. 89 raz (Coastal Region); $22. With 16 the soft impression of this wine, ending with a months in French and American oak, it should short but clean finish. Drink now. Imported by Glenelly 2007 Grand Vin de not be a surprise that this wine is as rich and won- Cape Classics. —L.B. 88 Glenelly (Western Cape); $25. derfully wood-spiced as it is. Earthy spice by way Black berry, raspberry and cassis abound on the of clove, cinnamon sticks, anise root and cigar Tall Horse 2009 Shiraz (Western bouquet of this wine, lifted by superattractive box bring the typical dark fruit flavors to another 84 Cape); $9. Here’s a short and simple aromas of fudgy brownie. The fruit transitions level. Balanced and drinkable now with a finish Shiraz that goes down easy with fleshy berry and completely to the full palate, with a touch of pep- reminiscent of a tanned hide. Imported by Fred- red plum flavors. There’s a hint of earthiness and pery spice staying through the close. Drink now. erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B. to the bouquet, and the palate is soft and Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. approachable with low tannins and acidity. De Grendel 2007 Shiraz (Dur- Imported by Cape Wine Ventures. —L.B. Black Pearl 2007 Oro Shiraz- 88 banville); $18. This is quite a meaty 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paarl); $20. Shiraz, with dominating characteristics of smoked Forward and easy to drink with notes of cherry, game and bacon slabs. But the raspberry sauce, OTHER RED WINES cassis, purple florals and a touch of fresh coffee blueberry and plum fruit flavors keep things from grinds in the bouquet. The mouthfeel is plump getting too wild, filling the palate alongside Ataraxia 2007 Serenity (Western and rich with flavors of currant and licorice stay- accents of smoky pepper. The tannins are dusty 91 Cape); $30. A gorgeous and elegant ing through the finish. Drink now. Imported by but dissipate slowly on the finish, making this a compositionally undisclosed red blend from Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. tasty and easy-drinking but interesting selection. winemaker Kevin Grant, this has all the finesse Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B. and complexity of a great wine. Bright and invit- Ken Forrester 2006 Shiraz- ing with juicy red plum, blueberry, and wild rasp- 87 Grenache (Western Cape); $22. Bosman Family Vineyards 2008 berry aromas and flavors laced with hints of Almost 50-50, this is a gamy and earthy wine with 86 Adama (Wellington); $18. Red smoky, woody spice and minerality. Silky in the a strong herbality present among the bright red berries, bramble, sweet spice and a touch of mouth with fine tannins and a long, nuanced fin- fruit and sous-bois aromas and flavors. Flecks of caramel are the core of this wine. Medium ish. Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile Wine dried oregano and plum skins linger on the close. weight in the mouth with soft tannins and a short, Company. —L.B. Drink now. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. clean finish. Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B. Doolhof 2007 Minotaur (Welling- Post House 2008 Blueish Black DeWaal 2009 Young Vines Shiraz 90 ton); $65. A limited production wine 87 (Stellenbosch); $11. A terrific value 86 (Stellenbosch); $11. Tasty and satisfy- (only 3,440 bottles produced) that has the depth red blend of 32% Shiraz, 32% Pinotage, 18% ing, especially for the price, with notes of plum and concentration one would expect for a wine Merlot and 18% Cab Sauv, loaded with fleshy flesh, strawberry and blueberry in the nose and with this price tag. Dark and floral with aromas of fruit flavors of black plum, cherry and berry laced mouth. Lean but so drinkable with soft mocha crushed African violets, black plum, cherry and with hints of coffee grinds and earthy spice. The and pepper spice unfolding on the solid finish. clover. The mouth is lush and velvety, loaded with fine tannins and overall soft structure make this Drink now. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Com- flavors of cassis, black berry, pepper and leathery an easy drinker perfect for company. Imported pany. Best Buy. —L.B. spice that continue through the finish. Drink now by Terry Seitz. Best Buy. —L.B. through 2015. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Raka 2007 Biography Shiraz (Klein Company. —L.B. Spier 2006 Vintage Selection 85 River); $17. A soft vanilla bean accent 87 Shiraz-Mourvèdre-Viognier shines through the moderate aromas of red Ken Forrester 2007 The Gypsy (Coastal Region); $18. Foliage and black pep- cherry and strawberry. Hints of game and cola 90 Grenache-Syrah (Western Cape); per adds complexity to the strong raspberry, red unfold on the palate, fighting their way through $65. Silky and seductive with notes of raspberry, plum and strawberry characteristics of this wine. the medium finish. Imported by Cape Ardor red cherry, blueberry and earthy forrest aromas. It’s straightforward but enjoyable with gentle tan- LLC. —L.B. The finish shows a sweet mocha accent through nins and a smoky, bacon-nuanced finish. Drink the dominant fruit flavors. Balanced and now. Imported by Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. Rooiberg 2009 Shiraz (Robertson); approachable with well-integrated tannins and a 85 $10. This is a clean and easy-drinking strong finish. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. Beyerskloof 2007 Synergy Cape Shiraz loaded with ripe fruit flavors of raspberry 86 Blend (Stellenbosch); $18. An inter- and blueberry alongside a hint of mocha. Lammershoek 2006 Roulette sting and fruit-forward Cape blend composed of Medium weight with soft tannins and a fleck of 89 (Swartland); $40. This is an attractive 57% Pinotage, 23% Shiraz, 14% Cab Sauv and pepper on the finish. Imported by Worthwhile but focused wine with loads of juicy red plum 6% Merlot. Kirsch and red plum along with sub- Wine Company. Best Buy. —L.B. guts, mashed raspberry and blackberry preserve tle accents of rubber and tar fill the profile. Soft

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 and quite easygoing with low tannins and a short Hartenberg 2006 The Eleanor nents throughout. Medium weight and balanced finish. Imported by Cape Wine Match. —L.B. 89 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch); $53. with a clean, toasted almond milk infused finish. There’s a real richness to this wine, as aromas of Drink now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. Goats do Roam Wine Co. 2008 butter and cream flood the nose alongside notes 86 (Western Cape); $10. An easy- of ripe peach and apple. The mouthfeel is as full Saxenburg Estate 2008 Private drinking Rhône-style red blend with a fun name and lush as one would anticipate from the bou- 87 Collection Chardonnay (Stellen- and a great attitude. Small red berries, plum skins quet, and the finish is long but clean. Drink now. bosch); $20. Beautiful aromas of lightly toasted and soft strawberries abound on the nose and Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. red apple skins, peach pit and pineapple core mouth, and the structure is plump and juicy with draw you in immediately, while the ripe fruit fla- low tannins and zippy acidity. Drink now. Bouchard Finlayson 2008 Croco- vors in the medium weight mouth keep you Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. 88 dile’s Lair Chardonnay (Walker invested. Moderately intense and balanced, this Bay); $20. There’s a distinct flinty, mineral would be a lovely match for roasted chicken. Sebeka 2008 Cape Blend Shiraz- sharpness to the nose, adding complexity to the Imported by MJM Imports. —L.B. 86 Pinotage (Western Cape); $8. With melon, green apple and Anjou pear aromas. 58% Shiraz and 42% Pinotage, this is an accessi- Medium weight but textured, the apple skin and KWV 2008 Cathedral Cellar ble and enjoyable Cape blend with vibrant notes toast flavors linger endlessly on the finish. Drink 86 Chardonnay (Western Cape); $17. of black berry, all-fruit preserves, root beer and a now. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. This is an easy pleaser with typical Chard flavors soft touch of caramel sauce. Cherry and fleshy of ripe red apple and pear accented by toast. Hartenberg 2008 Chardonnay plum fill the mouth, and a kiss of vanilla lingers There’s a hint of beeswax in the bouquet, while (Stellenbosch); $27. Light buttery the nutty oak notes linger through the solid fin- on the close. Imported by Sebeka Wines. Best 88 and grilled peach aromas mingle with softer notes ish. Imported by Opici Wines. —L.B. Buy. —L.B. of pear and orange rind. The full weight mouth Morgenhof 2008 Fantail The Royal Valley Vineyards Wine offers more hazelnut and graham cracker flavors Unwooded Chardonnay (Western Company 2009 Shiraz-Cabernet that stick all the way through the close. Round 86 81 but balanced and not overdone. Imported by Cape); $12. This Chard might be unwooded, Sauvignon (Swartland); $10. Soft and a bit Terry Seitz. —L.B. but it’s not short on character. Medium weight lean in the mouth, with muted notes of red plum with solid ripe apple and pear flavors partnered and raspberry Jolly Rancher candy. Imported by Juno 2008 Art House Chardonnay- with interesting accents of honeysuckle and Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B. 88 Viognier (Coastal Region); $16. pineapple. Straightforward and simple but very With 25% Viognier added to this Chard, there easy to enjoy. Imported by Terry Seitz. —L.B. are a lot of floral characteristics adding complex- SOUTH AFRICA ity to the nose and mouth. Roasted apple, orange Ernst Gouws & Co. 2008 Chardon- blossom and almond skin round out the mouth, 82 nay (Coastal Region); $11. Honeyed WHITE WINES while a touch of Earl Grey tea pleasantly unfolds and a bit mealy with mushy flavors of mango and on the finish. Drink now. Imported by Conflu- guava in the medium-weight mouth. Drink now. CHARDONNAY ence Wine Importers. —L.B. Imported by Vinum International . —L.B.

Danie de Wet 2007 Bateleur Thelema 2008 Sutherland Chardonnay (Robertson); $50. 91 This 88 Chardonnay (Elgin); $15. Remark- SAUVIGNON BLANC is a stellar example of how to do South African ably well balanced and easy to drink with soft Chard right. Delicate white florals and a firm toast, grilled peach and Red Delicious apple Ataraxia 2009 Sauvignon Blanc minerality mingle with fruit notes of Gala apple throughout. The finish has a distinct nuttiness to 89 (Western Cape); $20. This is a gor- and Anjou pear. The mouth is weighty but not it, seeming almost sweet and spicy all at once. geous Sauvignon Blanc with notes of sweet pea, flabby and a soft sweet woody spice lingers on Drink now. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. honeydew, gooseberry and lemon rind citrus. the long finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Medium weight with assertive acidity and a Company. —L.B. Glen Carlou 2008 Chardonnay vibrant, mouth-watering finish. Try with lemon 87 (Paarl); $16. Here’s a riper expression roasted chicken or grilled swordfish. Imported by Glen Carlou 2008 Quartz Stone of South African Chardonnay with forward aro- Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. 90 Chardonnay (Paarl); $45. This is a mas and flavors of baked pear, apple cider and top-end Chard from a very reputable producer. walnut skins that linger through the buttery fin- Southern Right 2009 Sauvignon Sweet custardy notes of mango, pear and melon ish. Round and full in the mouth but not flabby. 88 Blanc (Walker Bay); $19. The transition from the nose to mouth seamlessly, Drink now. Imported by Hess Collection. —L.B. mouthfeel of this wine is so full and weighty that with accents of hazelnut and orange oil adding one might never guess that it’s a South African complexity to the long finish. Full and lusty with Hartenberg 2007 Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc. On the nose, glimmers of baby an overall decadent feel; drink now. Imported by 87 (Stellenbosch); $28. Chalky but ripe powder and chamomile mingle with soft notes of Hess Collection. —L.B. with red pear, melon and yellow floral compo- honeydew rind and crisp apple. The limey finish

WineMag.com | 4 9 BUYING I GUIDE seals the deal nicely, like a comforting signature. Hartenberg 2008 Sauvignon Blanc flavors continues in the mouth. Clean and soft, Imported by Vineyard Brands. —L.B. 86 (Stellenbosch); $28. Forward citrus this wine is remarkably easy to drink and should is lifted by accents of thyme and green melon match well with lighter fare. Imported by Cape Buitenverwachting 2009 Sauvi- rind in the bouquet. White cranberry and lime Wine Match. —L.B. 87 gnon Blanc (Constantia); $15. pith unfold in the medium-weight mouth and There’s a nice complexity to this wine with hints linger through the finish. Imported by Terry Le Bonheur 2009 Sauvignon Blanc of chalk, fresh honeysuckle and a touch of green Seitz. —L.B. 85 (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch); $12. pepper spice among the typical sweet grass and Here’s a riper, more tropical fruit infused Sauv citrus characteristics. Balanced with appro- Iona Vineyards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc with notes of mango, kiwi and yellow peach priately assertive acidity and a crisp but lingering 86 Blanc (Elgin); $18. The entry starts off nectar. The rich fruit continues to dominate the finish. Imported by Cape Classics. —L.B. a bit green with notes of grass, green plum and a palate, but the lemon-lime citrus finish livens touch of pepper. The mouthfeel is light and lean things up on the end. Imported by Cape Leg- Groot Constantia 2009 Sauvignon but offers loads of fresh citrus flavors by way of ends.—L.B. 87 Blanc (Constantia); $20. Medium tart orange supremes and lime rind. The bracing intense aromas of green fig, hard peach and fresh finish and prickly texture make this an easy-drink- Raka 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Klein herbs dominate the bouquet, and the riper fruit ing choice. —L.B. 85 River); $13. Watermelon rind, lime pith flavors continue on the fleshy palate. The weight and green plum round out this wine’s profile. The KWV 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is lifted by accents of clementine citrus that mouth is light and lean and the finish clean. Drink (Western Cape); $11. shines through on the close. Drink now. 86 Sweet notes of now. Imported by Cape Ardor LLC. —L.B. Imported by Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. orange marmalade, kiwi and green grass keep the leaner notes of gooseberry and pineapple acidity Spier 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Lomond 2009 Pincushion Vine- from being too tart. There’s the impression of 85 (Western Cape); $9. A soft minerality yard Sauvignon Blanc (Cape Agul- effervescence in the mouth with vibrant tropical is matched with notes of sweet pea, white peach 87 fruit flavors lingering through the finish. and green melon on the nose and mouth. Full has); $25. There’s a very cool minerality on the Imported by Opici Wines. Best Buy. —L.B. but clean with a racy citrus finish. Imported by nose of this wine, followed by notes of green Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. fruit, white currant and fresh hay on the nose and Makulu 2009 Sauvignon Blanc mouth. Medium weight in the mouth with brac- (Western Cape); $6. A terrific value: Ernst Gouws & Co. 2009 Sauvi- ing acidity and a clean, lingering finish. Imported 86 Bright citrus, soft grass and a touch of hard white gnon Blanc (Stellenbosch); $11. by Cape Legends.—L.B. 84 peach dominate the nose and mouth. Balanced, Lean but enjoyable with straightforward lemon clean, and very easy to drink. Try with fresh citrus and green plum aromas and flavors. Drink Partnership Vineyards 2009 Sauvi- grilled fish or crab cakes. Imported by Prestige now. Imported by Vinum International.—L.B. gnon Blanc (Western Cape); $12. 87 Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. The bouquet immediately draws you in with aro- mas of sweet pea florals, fresh grass, ripe goose- Neil Ellis 2009 Sincerely Sauvi- CHENIN BLANC berry and preserved Meyer lemon. The medium- 86 gnon Blanc (Western Cape); $14. weight mouths offers slightly riper nuances of This is a lean, easy-to-drink Sauvignon Blanc with Simonsig 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stel- stone fruit but ends with a tangy citrus-infused traditional flavors of green gooseberry and sharp 88 lenbosch); $12. Bright and fruity with finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. lime citrus. Herbal thyme and fresh hay aromas elements of pear, melon, mango and sweet green Best Buy. —L.B. add complexity to the nose, while the wine closes grass. The medium-weight mouth is fresh and on a slightly bitter pith note. Drink up. Imported lively with bracing acidity that leads through to Beau Joubert 2009 Sauvignon by Vineyard Brands. —L.B. the crisp but lengthy finish. Imported by 86 Blanc (Stellenbosch); $13. Here’s a Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —L.B. bright Sauvignon Blanc with appealing accents of Simonsig 2009 Sunbird Sauvignon baby powder and orange blossom running 86 Blanc (Western Cape); $14. This DeWaal 2009 Young Vines Chenin through the dominant nectarine and tangerine wine smells immediately fresh and tart, with 86 Blanc (Stellenbosch); $11. Orange aromas and flavors. The mouth is surprisingly scents of green plum, gooseberry, hard nectarine citrus dominates the medium-intense bouquet, round but the finish is mouthwatering and clean. and straw filling the nose. The leanness continues but secondary aromas of green apple, melon rind, Imported by Metrowine Distribution. —L.B. in the mouth with citrus flavors leading thorough hard nectarine and a touch of honeysuckle to the clean but lingering finish. Imported by appear upon deeper inhalation. Solidly structured Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Edge- Quintessential Wines. —L.B. with a vibrant mouth and an apple core flavored 86 baston Sauvignon Blanc (Stellen- finish. Imported by Worthwhile Wine Company. bosch); $15. Here’s a clean, racy white with Stellenbosch Hills 2009 Sauvignon Best Buy. —L.B. aromas of green gooseberry, wet grass and lemon 86 Blanc (Stellenbosch); $12. Mild yel- rind. Balanced in the mouth with a juicy finish. low peach, citrus and white floral aromas appear Dornier 2009 Donatus White Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. on the nose, and a similarly nuanced intensity of 86 (Western Cape); $22. Donatus, Latin

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 for Gift from God, is a blend of 77% Chenin R&A Pfaffl 2008 Altenberg St. white fruit and spice flavors laced with tense Blanc and 23% Semillon. Soft tropical fruit, 89 Laurent (Niederösterreich); $44. acidity. It needs 3-4 years. Imported by Fruit of orange, melon rind and a hint of oak unfold on Dense and firm, dark plum fruits and tight tan- the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. the nose, while the lively light-weight mouth nins frame this wine against its fruits and spice offers more fresh topical fruit and pineapple acid- flavors. Although it is not a heavyweight, the Forstreiter 2009 Schiefer Reserve ity. Balanced and easy to drink. Imported by intensity of flavors more than compensates. 90 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); $NA. A Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. Imported by Palm Bay International. —R.V. rich wine, full of peach and pineapple flavors, with an herbal, spicy edge. It’s full in the mouth, the Spier 2009 Chenin Blanc (Western Weninger 2007 Merlot (Burgen- texture oily and unctuous. At the end, the pepper 86 Cape); $8. A fantastic value for an easy- 88 land); $52. Very soft, open wine. It is character thrusts out of the glass. Imported by pleasing white loaded with Golden Delicious rich, with an opulent texture, while its tannins Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.—R.V. apple, clementine citrus and watermelon rind fla- are a whisper among the ripe red berry fruits and vors. Clean and tart but delicious and refreshing. sweetness. The acidity brings the wine attrac- Graf Hardegg 2009 Vom Schloss Drink now. Imported by Indigo Wine Group. tively to a close. Imported by Frederick Wildman 90 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterre- Best Buy. —L.B. & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. ich); $18. Von Schloss means that the wine comes from the Hardegg castle vineyards. A rich Stellenbosch Hills 2009 Chenin Graf Hardegg 2007 Steinbügel and complex wine, its creamed apple flavors Reserve Pinot Noir (Niederöster- Blanc (Stellenbosch); $10. A solid, 86 given point by pineapple acidity. It has weight, 85 reich); $35. straightforward selection that smells like a lime A pale-colored wine, tasting of ripe fruits, a hint of spice and a round, full texture gummy bear with accents of lime leaf and soft strawberry jam, soft tannins and acidity. It is cer- on the finish. Imported by Frederick Wildman tainly cool-climate Pinot Noir, in its light texture tropical fruit. Vibrant and refreshing with a zippy & Sons, Ltd.—R.V. and likelihood of early drinking. Imported by finish; drink now. Imported by Cape Wine Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Match. Best Buy. —L.B. Salomon-Undhof 2009 Von Stein Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Krem- R&A Pfaffl 2009 Austrian Cherry 90 stal); $55. Aromas of peach and mango waft Zweigelt (Niederösterreich); $15. AUSTRIA 86 from the glass. This is a rich wine, although dry, Yes, cherry is a good name for the red cherry fla- with a smooth, almost oily texture. Its ripe fruit is vors of this cheery wine. Soft tannins, plenty of RED WINES intense, with the yellow fruit flavors dominating forward fruit, balanced acidity. Delicious. Screw acidity and pepper. It could age for several years. cap. Imported by Palm Bay International. —R.V. Weninger 2007 Alte Reben Red Imported by Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 93 (Burgenland); $35. A complex, con- centrated wine. It shows richness as well as tense GRÜNER VELTLINER Graf Hardegg 2009 Steinbügel minerality, the ripe black berry flavors melding 89 Reserve Grüner Veltliner with firm tannins. Alte Reben is old vines, Forstreiter 2009 Grande Reserve (Niederösterreich); $27. From vines close to impressive and designed for aging. Imported by Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterre- the Czech border, this wine is soft and yeasty in Cellar Selec- 93 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. ich); $NA. Impressively compact, complex wine. character, with juicy fruit, a ripe texture, citrus and tion. —R.V. It has rich flavors of peach, spiced pear to go with bell pepper flavors. Age for 2-3 years. Imported by the intense acidity that is under the full-bodied Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Weninger 2007 Dürrau Cuvée surface. It should be aged three years or more. 94 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland); $84. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Salomon-Undhof 2009 Wachtberg This is Weninger’s top wine, an impressive array Cellar Selection. —R.V. 89 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); $28. A of spice, black berry fruit, dusty tannins and lay- tightly textured wine, packed with acidity. Its ers of wood and acidity. There is weight and Forstreiter 2009 Tabor Reserve Die grapefruit and green apple fruit lend a lively restrained power here, a dark structure. Age 5-6 92 Räritat Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); character layered with grainy acidity. There is a years. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, $NA. Big, serious, powerful wine, as complex as final touch of pepper and yeast. Imported by Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Grüner can be. It’s powered by ripe apples and Fruit of the Vines, Inc.—R.V. thyme, seasoned with pepper. The acidity sets the Weninger 2009 Hochäcker scene for a wine that can age. Imported by Fred- Forstreiter 2009 Kremser Kögl 91 Blaufränkisch (Mittelburgenland); erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.—R.V. 88 Bergwein Grüner Veltliner (Krem- $24. Plenty of spice, leather and tar aromas, fol- stal); $NA. An attractive wine, its fruit in the lowed by a juicy palate that is edged with dark, Salomon-Undhof 2009 Lindberg white currants and pear juice category. The acid- dusty, very dry tannins. It is finely balanced, the 91 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Krem- ity is finely integrated into this ripe fruit, with a acidity showing attractive freshness, with a long, stal); $48. While the aromas are luscious, what warm, rich core. It’s ready to drink, but the acid- fruity aftertaste. Imported by Frederick Wildman emerges on the palate is more austere, mineral in ity will help it age. Imported by Frederick Wild- & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. texture. The wine has a tight, nervy character, its man & Sons, Ltd.—R.V.

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Graf Hardegg 2009 Grüner Velt- aging. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Salomon-Undhof 2009 Undhof 88 liner (Niederösterreich); $13. Typi- Ltd. Cellar Selection.—R.V. 89 Kögl Riesling (Kremstal); $28. An cal pepper and spice flavors mark this wine as a attractive, fresh-faced wine, bubbling brightly classic, fresh, ready-to-drink Grüner. It’s all about Metternich-Salomon 2009 Pfaf- and easily. With light white fruits and laced with bright acidity and hints of minerality. Imported 93 fenberg Reserve Riesling (Krem- acidity, it brings out a racy, nervy character, look- by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. stal); $55. A smooth, cream–textured wine, just ing to food as a complement. Imported by Fruit —R.V. given an edge by a spice and yeast character. The of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. wine offers layers of acidity, white fruits, crisp Salomon-Undhof 2009 Wieden- apples rounded out by its richness. For aging berg Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal); 88 over 4–5 years, probably more. Imported by ZIERFANDLER $25. A wine that brings out characteristic pepper Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection.—R.V. flavors to spice up the smooth white fruits. There Stadlmann 2009 Mandel-Höh Zier- is a crisp citrus element along with apple skins. Graf Hardegg 2005 Spâtlese 93 fandler (Thermenregion); $NA. Ready to drink now. Imported by Fruit of the Reserve Vom Schloss Riesling Elegant, crisp wine from a single vineyard, edged Vines, Inc.—R.V. 91 (Niederösterreich); $37. A medium-sweet with minerality as well as ripe pear and pineapple wine, balancing ripe fruits with a delicious layer flavors. There is a spicy character with touches of R&A Pfaffl 2009 Austrian Pepper almonds and tense acidity. Age for several years. Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterre- of acidity. The black currant fruits, tarragon and 87 Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. ich); $15. taut acidity balance the rich sweetness. Imported A wine that is pure, quaffable pleas- Cellar Selection. —R.V. ure. There is no complexity, just clean, soft pear by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.—R.V. and pepper flavored fruit. The acidity is finely Salomon-Undhof 2009 Pfaffen- Stadlmann 2007 Grosse Reserve integrated into this ripe, mouthwatering wine. Zierfandler (Thermenregion); Imported by Palm Bay International. —R.V. 91 berg Riesling (Kremstal); $35. Rich 92 $NA. This is an impressive, big, burly wine. Riesling, very perfumed, with flavors of yellow Sweet with a rich fee; flavors of ripe lychee and Graf Hardegg 2009 Veltlinsky creamed fruits over a steely core giving structure. pear flavors are laced with spice. Powerful and Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterre- It has weight, the ripe fruit powering through the 86 weighty, drink this by itself as a wine for contem- ich); $13. A soft, creamy wine, lightly textured edgy final texture. A wine for aging. Imported by plation. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, with pear and apple juice flavors. It’s immediately Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection.—R.V. Ltd.—R.V. attractive, a delicious wine for apéritifs. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.—R.V. Salomon-Undhof 2009 Steiner Stadlmann 2008 Mandel-Höh Zier- Kögl Reserve Riesling (Kremstal); 91 fandler (Thermenregion); $NA. Forstreiter 2009 Grooner Grüner $28. Reserve wines from Kremstal offer a rich 91 Poised, ripe wine that revels in its richness allied Veltliner (Niederösterreich); $NA. character and this wine, with its intense ripe yel- 85 to a tight texture of apples skins, white currants Created for the American market, this wine does low fruits, fits the bill. It does have an edge of and juicy acidity. An edge of pepper gives extra everything a fresh, lively Grüner Veltliner is sup- steel and minerality, although its round, creamy interest and brings out the dry nature of the posed to. Light and ripe, with green apples and style is likely to emerge more as it ages. Imported wine. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, lime juice. Screwcap. Imported by Frederick by Fruit of the Vines, Inc.—R.V. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. Graf Hardegg 2009 Vom Schloss Salomon-Undhof 2009 Riesling (Niederösterreich); $18. Hochterrassen Grüner Veltliner 90 OTHER WHITE WINES 85 With beautiful purity of fruit from the biody- (Niederösterreich); $17. Light, fresh and namic Hardegg vineyards, this is a perfumed, bright, this is a delicious green-, Stadlmann 2009 Tagelsteiner Rot- apples and currant flavored wine. Light, airy, it touched by pepper. The acidity dances through 90 gipfler (Thermenregion); $NA. A dances on the palate, a lovely cool-climate Ries- the wine, leaving a lively aftertaste. Imported by rounded, creamy, spicy wine that brings out the ling. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Fruit of the Vines, Inc.—R.V. Rotgipfler’s full-bodied character. The wine has Ltd. —R.V. an edgy acidity that cuts its richness. Impressive wine, with a feeling of concentration. Imported RIESLING Salomon-Undhof 2009 Steinter- by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.—R.V. 90 rassen Riesling (Kremstal); $23. Forstreiter 2009 Schiefer Reserve Great ripe fruits here, peach and apricot flavors Stadlmann 2008 Höfen Weissbur- 93 Riesling (Kremstal); $NA. An layered with intense white currant acidity. The 88 gunder (Thermenregion); $NA. impressive, ageworthy Riesling. It shows great wine has an edgy feel to it, its acidity bright and From 45-year-old vines, this Pinot Blanc is a depth of flavor, its intense, biting acidity shooting taut. Give the wine a year for its elements to smooth, charming wine. It may be that its rich- through the green apple and plum fruits. Very blend together. Imported by Fruit of the Vines, ness is more prominent than its structure, giving nervy, minerally and taut. Designed for longterm Inc. —R.V. a wine that, even with its weight, becomes an

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 apéritif style. Imported by Frederick Wildman & wines created by Jean-Luc Baldès. Imported by threaded by tannins. It has an elegant structure, Sons, Ltd.—R.V. Misa Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. with bright black berry fruits to go with the layers of smoky wood and tannins. Age for 3–4 years. Jean-Luc Baldès 2008 Clos Trigue- Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. SPARKLING WINES 93 dina The New Black Wine Editors’ Choice. —R.V. (Cahors); $60. Made using an adaptation of a Graf Hardegg 2004 Extra Brut Bur- Cahors tradition of warming the must before fer- Château de Gaudou 2007 Réserve 88 gundersekt (Osterreichischer mentation to increase stability as well as color. 91 de Gaudou (Cahors); $40. A dense Sekt); $23. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardon- The result is immensely powerful tannins, choco- wine, tannic and firmly structured. It’s one of nay with some years of bottle aging has produced late density and a youthful bitter edge at this those wines that are not for the faint-hearted with a sophisticated wine, pushing acidity and citrus stage. Imported by Eagle Eye Imports. —R.V. its power, concentration and medicinal character. flavors and a dancing sparkling character. Aro- Age for several years. Imported by Wine Wine matic and very crisp. Imported by Frederick Château Eugénie 2005 Cuvée Situation LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 92 Réserve de l’Aiëul (Cahors); $22. While it certainly is tannic, the wine also has bold Château Lamartine 2008 Cuvée fruit, full of black berry and sweet jam flavors. 91 Particulière (Cahors); $NA. Densely SW FRANCE That makes this balanced, although when the tannic, a dry core overlaid by delicious, jammy tannins are going to soften is unsure. Decant flavors. Black and Damson plums, alongside roast RED WINES before serving. Imported by The Wine Company. coffee, go with acidity that pushes through at the —R.V. end. Certainly for aging. Imported by T. Edward CAHORS Wines Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château la Coustarelle 2006 Jean-Luc Baldès 2007 Clos Trigue- 92 Grande Cuvée Prestige (Cahors); Château Nozières 2008 Cuvée 94 dina Les Petites Cailles (Cahors); $30. Well balanced, bringing together its firm, 91 Ambroise de l’Her (Cahors); $18. $30. The third and most impressive wine in a youthful tannins with ripe jammy fruits and great A smooth wine, the tannins suspended within a swathes of spice and chocolate. It needs aging, velvet texture, resulting in an opulent, rich feel. series of single-vineyard wines, from the 900-foot but it is an impressive wine. Imported by Charles This is very intense, with medicinal and dark plateau above the river Lot Valley. This is a wine Neal Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. plum skin flavors. Powerful, solid, for aging. to age, very mineral in character and very struc- Imported by Sevier Imports LLC. Editors’ tured, with tight tannins. Keep for six years and Domaine les Roques de Cana 2007 Choice. —R.V. more. Imported by Misa Imports. Cellar Selec- Sanguis Christi (Cahors); $20. The tion. —R.V. 92 name of the wine obviously comes from the Georges Vigouroux 2008 Château Catholic mass, but it’s also inspired by the ancient de Haute-Serre (Cahors); $NA. Château la Caminade 2008 La 91 origins of the Cahors vineyards. The wine itself is From a vineyard at one of the highest points in Commandery (Cahors); $22. Toasty 93 smooth, polished and mint flavored, the tannins the Cahors vineyard (nearly 1,000 feet), this is a aromas are followed by intense black plum fruits ripe and juicy. Wood rounds out the natural Mal- smoothly perfumed, wood-aged wine that shows twisted with tannins and polished with wood. It’s bec tannins. Imported by Michael Corso Selec- light elegance, acidity as well as dark currant an impressive, powerful wine, with a complex tions. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. fruits and a touch of mint. Imported by Baron structure. Firm at this stage, it need 4–5 years at Francois Ltd. —R.V. least to age. Imported by Wine Traditions. Cellar Jean-Luc Baldès 2007 Clos Trigue- Selection. —R.V. 92 dina Au Coin du Bois (Cahors); Château de Gaudou 2008 Renais- $30. From the second terrace level above the 90 sance (Cahors); $21. Classic black- Château la Caminade 2006 L’Esprit Lot River, this is a powerful as well as elegant colored Malbec, very perfumed, its fruit polished 93 de Caminade (Cahors); $NA. Aged single-vineyard wine. It’s touched by bitter fruits, by smooth tannins. On the palate, black damson in large wood barrels, this is a big, powerful wine along with great acidity and a depth of tannins. and bitter chocolate flavors are present. It’s a with medicinal, herbal aromas and a polished Imported by Misa Imports. —R.V. powerful wine, full of firm tannins, its dark edge feel. The dark plums and bitter coffee give a rich softened by wood. Imported by Wine Wine Situ- aftertaste. Age for 5–6 years. Imported by Wine Le Clos d’un Jour 2007 Un Jour.... ation LLC. —R.V. Traditions. —R.V. 92 (Cahors); $NA. This is a big, black wine, intensely medicinal and herbal in character. Château Gautoul 2005 Cahors; Jean-Luc Baldès 2007 Clos Trigue- It has powerful, extracted, dark tannins, empha- 90 $NA. Impressive wine, perfectly balanc- 93 dina Les Galets (Cahors); $30. With sized by chocolate and spice flavors, as well as dark ing its tannins and its stylish medicinal and herbal its firm, black fruits, this is a very chunky wine, plums. Imported by Vineyard Research. —R.V. fruit flavors. It’s juicy, with mouthfilling black cur- mineral in character. It has tension, with tannins rant flavors. A wine to age for several years, but layered with intense flavors, very structured. It Château de Chambert 2008 likely to be drinkable, with softer tannins, in needs aging. One of a series of single-vineyard 91 Cahors; $18. A big, ripe, juicy wine, 2012. Imported by Vin de Garde Wines. —R.V.

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Château Pineraie 2006 L’Authen- A freshness presents itself alongside the delicious Pascal et Olivier Pieron 2009 Lati- 90 tique (Cahors); $NA. Powerful and ripe fruits. Imported by Charles Neal Selections. 87 tude 44 (Cahors); $NA. Here’s a wine dark in color, with perfumed fruits, laden with —R.V. with black plum flavors, acidity and an edge of tannins and sweet damsons, licorice and coffee. tannins. A smooth texture dominates, leaving a The acidity cuts through, bringing a fine edge to Château les Croisille 2007 Cuvée delicous, ready-to-drink wine. Imported by this rich and concentrated wine. Imported by 88 Divin (Cahors); $NA. Heavily toasty Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —R.V. David Vincent Selection. —R.V. wood dominates this wine, making it one-dimen- sional. It has enough juicy fruit, although it will Château Armandière 2008 Cahors; Georges Vigouroux 2008 Château take at least six years for this to really makes its 86 $NA. A lighter, earthy style of Cahors, 90 de Mercuès (Cahors); $NA. An presence. Less wood would help the balance. with attractive food-friendly red berry fruits and a intensely black-colored wine, with dark, smoky Imported by USA Wine Imports. —R.V. core of tannins. There is a mineral character tannins to match. It does have a juicy, ripe sweet here, tightly woven over the fruit. Imported by berry fruit element, laying under the surface tan- Georges Vigouroux 2007 Château OZ Wine Company. —R.V. nins. With this power, it needs several years to 88 de Haute-Serre (Cahors); $NA. develop. Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Finely balanced, with acidity and tannins firmly Château Bovila 2009 Malbec bedded in elegant, black currant fruits. The tan- 86 (Cahors); $NA. A fruity Cahors, show- Mas del Perié 2008 La Roque nins very dry, though they do not dominate. This ing off black berry fruits and light acidity within 90 (Cahors); $NA. Rich, firm, opulent and is a stylish wine for medium-term aging. an easy structure. The style is bright and ready to impressive. With this vintage, the wood element Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. drink. Imported by Ararat Import/Export Co. seems to have tamed and integrated, leaving an LLC. —R.V. attractive edge of chocolate and coffee. Imported Mas del Perié 2009 Les Escures by Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. 88 (Cahors); $NA. Open, rich wine, from Château de Gaudou 2009 Cahors; young vines, ripe with plum and spice, touch of 86 $13. A very forward, juicy wine with soft Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Malbec bitterness, followed by a rich, full palate. tannins, black fruits and bright acidity. Drink 89 (Cahors); $14. Mineral, firm wine, Imported by Wine Traditions. —R.V. now. Imported by Wine Wine Situation LLC. — although at the same time it has plenty of black R.V. plum fruits surrounding the core of dark tannins. Château Armandière 2004 Malbec The resulting wine is one that manages to com- 87 Ancestral (Cahors); $NA. An attrac- Domaine du Prince 2003 Lou bine the structure of Cahors while bringing out a tive, fruity wine with smoky flavors and dry tan- 86 Prince (Cahors); $40. A big black fruity character. Imported by Pierre Courdurie nins. The emphasis is on the balance between all wine that is powered by its tannins and dark fruits Selections. —R.V. these elements, producing a wine that cuts the and raisins. The texture is open and soft, probably fruit with acidity, while leaving dry tannins to fin- a product of the hot 2003 vintage. A lighter bottle Château Combel la Serre 2007 ish. Imported by Wine Without Borders. —R.V. would be an advantage. Imported by J. F. Wine 88 Coeur de Cuvée (Cahors); $19. Imports, Inc. —R.V. Firmly tannic wine, spiced with acidity, black Château du Cèdre 2009 Cèdre plum skins, damsons and tight black currants. It 87 Héritage (Cahors); $NA. A fruit- Georges Vigouroux 2006 Antisto is attractively balanced, a real food wine, that will driven wine, young and fresh, its lively red berry 86 (Cahors); $NA. One of a pair of com- mature well in 3–4 years. Imported by North fruits, touched lightly by tannins and acidity. parative wines labeled Antisto. The other comes American Beverage Group. —R.V. Delicious, fruity wine. Imported by Martine’s from Mendoza in Argentina. The Cahors version Wines. —R.V. is lightly mineral, a soft wine feeling a little light Château Haut-Monplaisir 2008 in character. It does have the firm tannins and 88 Cahors; $NA. Very juicy wine, with Château Famaey 2006 Cahors; acidity of Cahors Malbec. Imported by Baron tannins that gives shape to solid, chunky fruits. It 87 $13. With wood aging, firm dark tannins Francois Ltd. —R.V. is the ripe fruit and acidity that drive the bitter and definite toasty elements, this is a dark wine. chocolate and smoky flavors. For medium-term It has elegant black fruits that are layered with Château Combel la Serre 2008 aging. Imported by Vintage ‘59 Imports. —R.V. acidity. The tannins, though, are still dense, and 84 Cuvée Prestige (Cahors); $17. Lean, the wine needs time to come into balance. earthy, rustic wine, dominated by beetroot and Château la Caminade 2007 Tradi- Imported by Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. black currant juice. Its tannins are a dusty core 88 tion (Cahors); $NA. This wine is with acidity and berry fruit flavors around it. If driven by its ripe fruit, black currant and red Clos Troteligotte 2007 La Perdrix the rustic character can blow off, it’s an attrac- cherry flavors. Fruit tannins give weight. 87 (Cahors); $20. Juicy, with flavors dom- tive, balanced wine. Imported by North Ameri- Imported by Wine Traditions. —R.V. inated by black currant acidity, edging on aus- can Beverage Group. —R.V. tere. The tannins are major here, very dry, adding Château la Coustarelle 2008 Tra- to the severity. It needs some time, but it will Clos Siguier 2007 Cahors; $NA. 88 dition (Cahors); $NA. Thee are lots always be cool and stalky. Imported by Fruit of 82 Curious fresh honey aromas are found of black berry fruits and acidity in this fruity wine. the Vines, Inc. —R.V. on a wine that would be fresh and delicious if it

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 wasn’t for the petrol edge and the red cabbage Drink now. Imported by North American Bever- Château la Rayre 2009 Rosé (Berg- flavor. Imported by Jenny and François Selec- age Group. —R.V. 82 erac); $15. Almost garishly pink, this is tions. —R.V. soft, caramel-flavored rosé that feels full in the Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Duras et mouth. Pure strawberry fruits dominate, with 87 Braucol (Gaillac); $12. There is a only a light balancing acidity. Imported by Bour- BERGERAC farmyard character here but it certainly doesn’t geois Family Selections. —R.V. detract from the light, fresh juicy cherry charac- Château la Rayre 2009 Premier ter. It’s attractive, with bright acidity to finish. 89 Vin (Bergerac); $20. A full and ripe Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. Best GASCONY wine that expresses the great 2005 vintage well. It Buy. —R.V. is showing mature signs, with hints of dried fruits, Domaine du Tariquet 2009 raisins and spice over wood. The texture is dense, Haut Marin 2009 Merlot (Vin de 88 Chardonnay (Vin de Pays des smooth, the layer of tannin blending well with 84 Pays des Côtes de Gascogne); $11. Côtes de Gascogne); $NA. Full, ripe and the mature fruit. Imported by Bourgeois Family A light-bodied, fresh red that has very gentle creamy, an unctuous Chardonnay from one of the Selections. —R.V. cherry fruit flavors. The acidity gives a fine final largest private estates in France. The wine fea- bite. Think about chilling slightly. Screwcap. tures melon, a line of citrus and pure, bright acid- Château Tour des Gendres 2009 Le Imported by Elite Wines Import. —R.V. ity. Screwcap. Imported by Robert Kacher 88 Classique (Bergerac); $15. Rich and Imports. —R.V. juicy, this warm wine benefits from the fine 2009 vintage. It has delicious black cherry, sweet tan- SW FRANCE Domaine du Tariquet 2009 Chenin nins and acidity and a generous mouth feel. Not 88 Blanc-Chardonnay (Vin de Pays for aging but certainly delicious. Imported by WHITE WINES des Côtes de Gascogne); $NA. A wine that Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. juxtaposes the acidity of Chenin with the rich- BERGERAC ness of Chardonnay and ends up with a melliflu- Château Bélingard 2009 Rosé ous whole. It is both apple crisp and melon ripe, (Bergerac); $7. 85 Shocking pink-colored Château Tour des Gendres 2009 lively and broad. And, as always, a great value. wine, very soft and smooth. It has an almost Cuvée des Conti (Bergerac Sec); Imported by Robert Kacher Imports. —R.V. sweet, full caramel character while still hitting 89 $18. The toast element is just right, giving a wine the acidity button. Imported by Total Wine & Haut Marin 2009 Gros Manseng that is very rich, broad and opulent. At the same More. —R.V. (Vin de Pays des Côtes de time, there is an edge of crispness as well as trop- 88 Gascogne); $12. Sweet apple flavors fill this ical fruits to add a final more vibrant character. deliciously aromatic, off-dry wine. With the apples Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. OTHER RED WINES come white currants, white peach and a touch of honey. A pleasure to drink. Screwcap. Imported Château Tour des Gendres 2009 Le Lionel Osmin & Cie 2008 Mon by Elite Wines Import. Best Buy. —R.V. Classique (Bergerac Sec); $15. Pow- Adour (Madiran); $17. A big, bold 88 91 erfully rich, creamy wine that has considerable wine with fine acidity and firm dark black tan- Haut Marin 2009 Cuvée Marine nins. It has proper weight, richness as well as a yellow fruit flavors to broaden the pear juice. The 87 (Vin de Pays des Côtes de big structure. The core is dense, mineral, tight. wine is ripe, full, while the acidity is just an after- Gascogne); $11. A delightfully soft and creamy Drink now, but could age for several years. thought. Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. wine with an herbaceous underlay. It has a rich, Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selections. —R.V. ripe quality, with melon as well as citrus, pure and Château Bélingard 2009 Bergerac crisp acidity and a final green herb buzz. Screw- Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Mansois 87 Sec; $9. The aroma is intensely herbal, cap. Imported by Elite Wines Import. —R.V. 88 (Marcillac); $12. Firm wine, with tan- while the palate has a richer apricot and pear nins to match the chunky structure. Black cur- character. There is an attractive spice element Producteurs Plaimont 2009 rant fruits go with acidity, green pepper and from the Muscadelle in the blend, with acidity 86 Colombelle Blanc (Vin spice. It’s a delicious wine from an almost giving a final lift. Imported by Total Wine & de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne); $9. From unknown appellation in the central mountains of More. Best Buy. —R.V. the leading cooperative in the Gascony region, France. Imported by Pierre Courdurie Selec- this is a deliciously fruity, floral Colombard-dom- tions. Best Buy. —R.V. Château la Rayre 2009 Bergerac inated wine. Citrus, grapefruit and green herba- 84 Sec; $15. Very herbaceous aromas are ceousness all give the wine extreme, tasty Château de Cénac 2009 Albatros followed by a green, grassy flavor, feeling fat crispness. Screwcap. Imported by Winesellers 87 Malbec (Vin de Pays du Lot); $12. although with enough acidity. Pear and green Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. Here is a bold, fruity wine with soft tannins and plum fruits round out easily. It should have big black cherry flavors. Pure juicy Malbec gives another few months in bottle. Imported by Bour- Domaine du Grand Cros 2009 a balance of fruit cake and fresh berry acidity. geois Family Selections. —R.V. 85 Jules Sauvignon Blanc-Colombard

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(Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne); crisp and fresh. Imported by Pierre Courdurie $12. Soft, easy apéritif-style wine, attractively Selections. —R.V. CORBIÈRES perfumed, with some herbaceousness, the tex- ture fresh as well as fat. Screwcap. Imported by Gérard Bertrand 2008 La Forge The Barterhouse. —R.V. LANGUEDOC- 94 (Corbières-Boutenac); $75. There’s a strong mineral backbone to this wine, which Haut Marin 2009 Colombard- ROUSSILLON alongside notes of garrigue (think lavender and 85 Sauvignon (Vin de Pays des Côtes bay leaves) and purple violet florals highlight this de Gascogne); $10. Pure fresh herbal fruit, RED WINES fantastic terroir. Black cherry, plum, licorice stick deliciously light and herbaceous, this is a great, and black peppercorns flood the palate, while crisp wine, as fresh as the new day. Drink as an SWEET WINES hints of used coffee grinds, cocoa powder and apéritif or with seafood. Screwcap. Imported by graham cracker crust appear on the seriously long Elite Wines Import. —R.V. finish. Creamy and decadent but balanced; easy Gérard Bertrand 1929 Legend Vin- to drink now but will age gracefully. Imported by tage (Maury); $380. With only 795 Haut Marin 2009 Colombard-Ugni 96 Gerard Bertrand USA. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. 85 Blanc (Vin de Pays des Côtes de bottles produced, this is a special treat. Although Gascogne); $10. Despite the lower alcohol, it’s ready to drink now, it has the structure and Gérard Bertrand 2007 La Forge this feels full in the mouth, softly textured, a pedigree to age for decades. Loaded with rich 93 (Corbières-Boutenac); $75. A gor- product of the warm 2009 vintage. It is ripe, with nut and rancio flavors, there’s so much going on; geous wine, dark and complex, with assertive green plums, lime and gooseberries. A good food aromas of dried orange peel, gingerbread, toasted leather and licorice spice throughout the boysen- wine, drink now. Screwcap. Imported by Elite macadamia nut and a drizzle of molasses lead berry and bramble character. Touches of graham Wines Import. —R.V. into flavors of dried red plum and fig dusted with cracker, tobacco leaf and spice unfold in the mouth. Lush and decadent, with a lingering Producteurs Plaimont 2009 Nutella powder and soft white pepper. Complex, chocolate-raspberry finish. Enjoyable now, it Colombelle Rosé (Vin de Pays des spicy and full, with an endless finish. Imported by 85 could show more balance and finesse in 2–3 Côtes de Gascogne); $9. Red berry fruits Gerard Bertrand USA. Cellar Selection. —L.B. years. Imported by Gerard Bertrand USA.—L.B. dominate this crisp and bright rosé. There is a good touch of acidity keeping the soft texture dry, Gérard Bertrand 1945 Legend Vin- Château Maylandie 2007 Villa Fer- light, dancing. Screwcap. Imported by Wine- 95 tage (Rivesaltes); $350. For any seri- rae (Corbières-Boutenac); $NA. sellers Ltd. —R.V. 91 ous fan of Rivesaltes, this is a must-have example. Accents of gamy animal and garrigue herbs in the Aromas of dried apricot, toasted hazelnut, fig, gin- form of dried thyme and bay leaves lift the bright OTHER WHITE WINES ger, sweet spice and candied orange rind fill the fruit aromas of red berry preserves and fleshy bouquet, while the mouth is silky and balanced— plum guts. The structure is gorgeous, creamy and Lionel Osmin & Cie 2008 Foehn sweet and heady without being cloying. All of the lush but textured like crushed velvet with firm but not overly gripping tannins. Black cherry pits (Jurançon); $24. Named after the dry aromas transition onto the palate alongside 90 and plum skins linger on the lengthy finish. wind that blows through the Jurançon vineyards, accents of walnut skins and shiitake mushroom. Imported by Château Maylandie. —L.B. this light, poised sweet wine has typical freshness, Soft salinity makes the long finish even more the botrytis never cloying but immersed in cur- mouthwatering. Drink now, or continue to age. Château Ollieux Romanis 2008 rants, fresh apricots. The wine has a lively, buoy- There are 869 bottles produced. Imported by ant, sweet character. Imported by Pierre 88 Cuvée Classique (Corbières); $16. Gerard Bertrand USA. Cellar Selection. —L.B. Courdurie Selections. —R.V. Thick, attractive fruit flavors of black cherry, rasp- berry and blueberry welcome you in immediately, Domaine Rotier 2009 Initiales Gérard Bertrand 1951 Legend Vin- with supporting notes of bay leaf and minerality 88 (Gaillac); $13. Ripe and creamy, with 93 tage (Banyuls); $300. With just shy in the background. Creamy and rich but balanced tropical fruits that vie with gooseberry flavors, of 1,000 bottles produced, this will be hard to in the mouth, with more tasty dark fruit transi- resulting in maximum freshness. There is an find. Dried fruit flavors of raspberry and red tioning through to the wood-spice infused finish. intriguing, herbal element, with thyme and basil plum dominate the nose and mouth, while notes Imported by Langdon Shiverick. —L.B. adding to the delicious mix. Imported by of sweet mulled spice, clove-pricked orange rind, Wineberry America LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Domaine des 2 Ânes 2008 Premier pepper, walnut skin and bittersweet cocoa glim- Pas (Corbières); $15. Raspberry, rose- mer throughout. Full and rich but lively, with 87 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Cami mary and lavender coupled with soft wild barn- 88 Salié (Jurançon Sec); $17. There is medium acidity and a zippiness to the finish. yard notes make this Corbières stand apart from weight here, powered by yellow fruits and a taut, Enjoyable now, but this will benefit from another its peers as a more traditional offering from the linear texture. The feel is almost chalky, with 5–10 years in the cellar. Imported by Gerard region. The texture is smooth with soft tannins acidity and a complex mouthfeel. The finish is Bertrand USA. Cellar Selection. —L.B. and strong acidity, with red cherry skin flavors

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 staying through the close. Imported by Jenny and assertive character. Small black currant, black tle more time to come together and smooth out. François Selections.—L.B. berry and cherry notes are augmented by hints of Imported by RJL O’Connell Distribution. —L.B. soft dried herbs, vanilla bean and minerality. The Domaines Barons de Rothschild mouth is medium weight with soft tannins that O’Vineyards 2007 Les Américains 86 (Lafite) 2008 Blason d’Aussières carry through to the rich boysenberry-flavored 88 (Cabardes); $15. A big and bold blend (Corbières); $20. Berry and bramble mingle finish. Imported by Jenny and François Selec- of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this with touches of cocoa and tree bark on the nose. tions. —L.B. brooding wine shows loads of black currant, The palate shows more bright fruit flavors sup- plum, tobacco and menthol herbality on the nose ported by garrigue herbs and peppery spice. For- Mas des Mas 2008 Minervois; $17. and mouth. Anise and used coffee grinds develop ward and approachable but tasty and easy to drink. 87 Medium-intense aromas of black cherry on the close, which stays alongside the gripping Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports.—L.B. and berry appear first, followed by lovely accents tannins. Try after 2012. Imported by RJL O’Con- of orange blossom florals and sweet licorice spice. nell Distribution. —L.B. Les Deux Rives 2008 Rouge (Cor- A touch of leather unfolds on the finish. Medium 86 bières); $14. The herbal notes of fen- weight and balanced with approachable tannins nel seed and licorice almost dominate the and an easy-drinking structure. Imported by OTHER RED WINES bouquet, but lifting aromas of black berry, cur- Grape Expectations (CA). —L.B. rant and plum skin fight to flesh things out. The Domaines Paul Mas 2008 Château satin-textured mouth with dusty tannins shows Chateau du Donjon 2008 Grande 90 Paul Mas Clos des Mûres (Coteaux stronger and riper fruit flavors of raspberry sauce 84 Tradition (Minervois); $17. Dusty du Languedoc); $20. Composed of 85% and fresh fig. Drink now. Imported by Pasternak red cherry and plum skins abound on this easy- Syrah, 10% Grenache and 5% Mourvèdre and Wine Imports. —L.B. drinking red. Accents of black pepper and dried aged in almost exclusively new oak for eight carnation petals add interest to the palate. Light months, this is an opulent wine loaded with dark weight and very soft in the mouth; drink now. cherry and raspberry, mocha and garrigue spice MINERVOIS Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. throughout. It’s full and lush but balanced and well integrated. Drinks beautifully now but Domaine Sainte Léocadie 2008 should hold for another couple of years. 89 Leukadios (Minervois); $18. Soft CABARDES Imported by Palm Bay International.—L.B. barnyard mingles with dried thyme and lavender, adding complexity to the juicy plum, cherry and O’Vineyards 2006 Proprietor’s O’Vineyards 2007 Trah Lah Lah wild raspberry flavors. Creamy but firm, with 90 Reserve (Cabardes); $24. Loads of 87 Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Vin gripping tannins and a cocoa-dusted finish. With menthol and pepper spice fill the nose, with a de Pays Cité de Carcassonne); $13. Intense 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% , supporting fruit core of black cherry, black cur- aromas of cassis, black plum, licorice and this is an intense Minervois that can stand up to rant and wild raspberry. The texture is like espresso grinds fill the bouquet of this 65% beef stew or braised short ribs.Imported by Bob crushed satin but the tannins, though fine grain, Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Firm Bofman Selections.—L.B. have good staying power. Mocha and cherry pits and tight in the mouth with prominent tannins add character to the close. Imported by RJL and assertive dark fruit flavors. A touch of soft Gérard Bertrand 2008 Syrah- O’Connell Distribution. —L.B. spice unfolds on the end. Imported by RJL 89 Carignan (Minervois); $18. The O’Connell Distribution. —L.B. nose is loaded with garrigue aromas, mostly rose- O’Vineyards 2007 Proprietor’s mary and dried bay leaf, lifted by vibrant black 89 Reserve (Cabardes); $24. Attractive Mas Gabinèle 2008 Vielles Vignes cherry and black berry jam. Licorice and spice and enticing, with aromas of dried red fruit and 85 Cinsault (Vin de Pays de L’Her- unfold in the chewy mouth, with a decadent milk raspberry dust spiced up with notes of pepper, ault); $15. Fresh and vibrant aromas of red chocolate infused finish. Imported by Gerard cocoa and toffee. Although grippy and somewhat berries and soft herbs fill the bouquet, while the Bertrand USA. —L.B. sandpapery in the mouth, that firm texture palate offers more kirsch and sweet spice flavors. lingers through the endless finish. Still young; try Light and juicy in the mouth with a clean but sat- Foncalieu 2008 Le Lien (Miner- in 2012. Imported by RJL O’Connell Distribu- isfying finish. Imported by Bourgeois Family 88 vois); $25. This 100% Syrah is thick tion. —L.B. Selections. —L.B. and intense with strong black fruit flavors lifted by accents of anise and milk chocolate. The O’Vineyards 2006 Les Américains mouth is full of ripe plum and cherry flavors, with 88 (Cabardes); $15. The nose is gor- SAINT-CHINIAN well-integrated tannins and a solid, juicy finish. geous; the black plum and cherry fruit mingle Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —L.B. seamlessly with licorice root, crushed violet and Foncalieu 2008 Apogée (Saint- cocoa nib aromas. The tannins are so firm and 88 Chinian); $25. This 95% Syrah wine Loup Blanc 2008 Le Régal du Loup assertive it almost kills your palate, with the fruit (with 5% Grenache) is thick and hearty with a 87 (Minervois); $20. This is a food- squeezing out on the end only after the astrin- strong black fruit core augmented by nuances of friendly wine with great balance but not an overly gency subsides. It shows promise, but needs a lit- flinty minerality, dark chocolate, tobacco and

WineMag.com | 5 7 BUYING I GUIDE leather. Chewy and firm in the mouth with medium acid and a solid finish. Drink now. Light weight with a short but clean finish. assertive tannins that linger through the finish. It Imported by Skalli Family Wines. —L.B. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —L.B. could use some time to integrate and mellow; try after 2012. Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Louis Changarnier 2008 Chardon- Inc. —L.B. 86 nay (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $13. Pear, OTHER WHITE WINE red apple skins and lavender aromas start off this Château Comte Devaugelas 2007 attractive Chard, while sweet lemon custard and Château Rives-Blanques 2008 86 Saint-Chinian; $9. Dried raspberry, fresh apple slices round out the palate. Medium 90 Dédicace Chenin Blanc (Limoux); cherry and cocoa powder notes dominate with weight, clean and balanced. Imported by Scop- $20. This 100% Chenin Blanc is a beautiful secondary accents of thyme, bay leaves and ani- erta Importing Co. Inc. —L.B. exaple of what the variety can express: soft florals mal notes. Lively and easy to drink. A tasty and loaded with garrigue notes alongside tropical fruit approachable value selection that would pair per- aromas of mango, guava and pineapple. It’s fectly with lamb loin or chops. Imported by Tri- SAUVIGNON BLANC vibrant in the mouth, with moderate acidity and a Vin Imports. Best Buy. —L.B. lifting backbone of lemon verbena. The finish François Lurton 2008 Les Fumees lingers gracefully, and overall the wine is ripe and Château Saint Baulery 2009 Saint- 86 Blanches Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de attractive without being sweet or cloying. Pays du Comté Tolosan); $9. 86 Chinian; $14. A juicy and fruit-forward A great value Imported by Demontoux Fine Wines. Editors’ choice with assertive aromas of strawberry, blue- white with 8,000 cases imported, so it should be Choice. —L.B. berry and red plum flesh. Ready for consump- relatively easy to find. Tart gooseberry and lemon flavors integrate with hints of fresh herbs, green tion now with a soft structure and gentle tannins. hay and soft smoke. Medium weight but lively Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. GERMANY with gently prickly acidity that lingers through Mas des Mas 2008 Saint-Chinian; the finish. Imported by Ex-Cellars Wine Agen- RIESLING KABINETT cies, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B. 85 $17. Earthy and a touch wild with scents of animal barnyard, forest floor and small red Joh. Jos. Prüm 2008 Graacher Domaine de Coussergues NV berries. Medium weight with an approachable Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de Pays 92 structure followed by a short finish. Drink now. 85 (Mosel); $NA. A Riesling with an enticing nose d’Oc); $12. An easy-drinking selection with a Imported by Winesellers Ltd.—L.B. of honeysuckle and other summer blossoms, mouthwatering finish and a softly prickly mouth- stone fruit and focused stony minerality. There’s a feel. Vibrant fruit flavors of hard mango slices, wonderfully taut palate, fantastically racy and firm nectarine and pineapple acidity. Enjoy now refreshing, with layers of persistent flavor inten- LANGUEDOC- while it’s fresh and young. Imported by Kysela sity. The minerality stays with you all the way to a Père et Fils. —L.B. ROUSSILLON very long lingering finish. Imported by Valcken- Le Dog 2009 d’Anaïs Sauvignon berg International, Inc. WHITE WINES Blanc (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $11. 85 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller- White peach, sweet citrus, underipe nectarine Burggraef) 2008 Bernkasteler CHARDONNAY and delicate dried savory herbs flesh out this racy, 91 Doctor Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $44. light bodied white. Pair with grilled seafood or Gérard Bertrand 2009 Aigle Royal salad with a lemon vinaigrette. Imported by Inviting layered aromas of ripe stone fruit, hints Chardonnay (Limoux); $75. 90 Soft World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. of citrus and some earthy spice and minerality. butter and vanilla-almond milk mingle with pear Crisp and refreshing. Very good depth and inten- and Gala apple aromas and flavors. Accents of Les Jamelles 2009 Sauvignon sity of lively youthful fruit with a strong mineral thyme and orange blossom add complexity to the 85 Blanc (Pays d’Oc); $11. Soft and easy core adding complexity. Medium sweet and bal- bouquet, while woody sweet spice appears in the to drink, with notes of green plum, lime citrus anced with a long finish. Imported by Winesellers mouth and sticks around through the long close. and fresh green grass throughout. Round but Ltd. Full, creamy and decadent. Only 5,200 bottles structured with medium acidity and a crisp, clean produced. Imported by Gerard Bertrand USA. finish. Drink now. Imported by Cellar Door Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 —L.B. Selections. —L.B. 91 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); $21. This is awfully creamy Robert Skalli 2008 Sud de France Les Vignerons de la Méditerranée and lush for a kabinett, but yummy at the same 88 Réserve Chardonnay (Vin de Pays 83 2009 Réserve St. Martin Sauvi- time. Some hints of lees and funk add complexity d’Oc); $15. Baked red apple, soft peach and a gnon Blanc (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $10. Deli- to the sweet green apple, passion fruit and lime touch of whole vanilla bean fill the bouquet, cate aromas of fresh hay, bay leaf and orange rind flavors. Finishes long, with lingering notes of while notes of clementine rind and soft wood unfold in the bouquet, while the mouth offers crushed stone, citrus and honey. Imported by develop in the mouth. Round but not fat with more green plum and tart citrus pith flavors. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Dr. Loosen 2009 Blue Slate Ries- (Mosel); $23. Ripe nose of peach, apricot and 90 ling Kabinett (Mosel); $20. As with honey with some petrol. This is sweet yet refresh- RIESLING SPÄTLESE all of the Dr. Loosen wines, this blended kabi- ing, with moderately concentrated ripe flavors. nett is very fruit-forward and direct. The green Smooth texture across the palate, attractive min- Markus Molitor 2008 Haus apple and lime notes are wonderfully pure and eral notes and some spice on the finish. Imported 93 Klosterberg Riesling Spätlese balanced. Drink this light, spritely wine over the by Magellan Wine Imports. (Mosel); $23. Enticingly complex nose, multi- next few years. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. faceted, with a medley of blossoms, honey, spice, Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Joh. Haart 2008 Piesporter white peaches and ample minerality showing 88 Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett through. Sweet, with delicious racy acidity and a Markus Molitor 2008 Haus (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); $23. Medium-gold in lively taut texture. This is very focused, with gen- 90 Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett color, with a pronounced nose of ripe yellow erous flavors of elderberries, stone fruit, orange (Mosel); $18. Classic Mosel nose of fresh blos- peach and nectarine and hints of spice and min- citrus, spice and slate. Long, persistent finish. soms, delicate stone fruit, slate and hints of flint. erality. Crisp, with juicy, sweet, ultraripe yellow Imported by Weingut Markus Molitor. This is medium sweet, crisp and lively with lots of fruit flavors following on the palate, but quite juicy fruit flavors, notes of acacia honey, white loose-knit texture. Simple easy-drinking. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller- peach and citrus. Nicely taut and focused palate, 91 Burggraef) 2008 Berncasteler Doc- very minerally with refreshing long finish. Markus Molitor 2008 Wehlener tor Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $62. Fairly Imported by Weingut Markus Molitor. 88 Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett broad aromas show some evolution with honey (Mosel); $20. Starts off with an almost inde- notes adding intrigue to ripe stone fruit and floral Dr. Loosen 2009 Erdener Trep- scribable note of petrichor, then develops more notes. Medium-sweet, but balanced and taut, pchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); 89 apple, citrus and even a hint of peachy ripeness. with a juicy, crisp texture and lots of minerality on $26. Shows wonderful purity of fruit—green It’s plump and medium in body, with lovely bal- the palate. Persistent layers of flavors with honey, apple and lime, perhaps a touch of flower shop ance to the off-dry finish. Imported by Weingut apricot, peach, spice showing nicely. Long miner- greens—and impreccable balance, being light in Markus Molitor. —J.C. ally finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. body, off dry, crisp and refreshing. Delicious. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. —J.C. Joh. Jos. Prüm 2008 Wehlener Dr. Loosen 2008 Wehlener Son- Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); Dr. Loosen 2008 Blue Slate Ries- 87 91 (Mosel); $NA. Pale lemon in color. Restrained $30. Nicely layered, with inviting fusel notes, ling Kabinett (Mosel); $20. Quite 89 at first and quite reduced, but opens up in the ripe yellow fruit and honey aromas. Very miner- ripe and precise stone fruit aromas with interest- glass to show appealing citrus and white peach ally. Deliciously crisp, juicy and focused with a ing hints of minerality. Refreshingly crisp with aromas. Crisp and juicy, with citrus flavors pre- nicely taut palate. Lovely rich texture, racy and balanced sweetness. Ample youthful, juicy fruits dominating—tangerine, ruby red grapefruit and balanced. Medium sweet, with ample flavor dance across the palate. Moderate intensity of fla- meyer lemon. Medium sweet, refreshing but depth—stone fruit, hints of guava, citrus and per- vor, zesty texture and a moderately long finish. slightly short on the finish. Imported by Valck- sistent minerality on a long finish. Imported by Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. enberg International, Inc. Loosen Bros. USA. Dr. Wagner 2008 Ockfener Bock- stein Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); Dr. Zenzen 2008 Apollo-Falter Val- Dr. Loosen 2008 Ürziger Würz- 89 wiger Rosenhang Riesling Kabi- garten Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); $23. The subtle nose features a medley of citrus 86 91 nett (Mosel); $20. $30. fruits. Zesty lemon, grapefruit and tangerine fla- Offers plenty of citrus, Pale gold in color. The attractive nose fea- vors persist across the palate. Juicy and refreshing spanning the spectrum from lime to orange and tures ripe yellow stone fruit with strong mineral with an attractive midpalate creaminess adding tangerine, with just a hint of nectarine mixed in. overtones, while the palate reveals enough crisp, weight and complexity. Smooth and long, with a At 8.5% alcohol, this kabinett gives an impres- refreshing acidity to balance the sweetness. nice mineral kick on the finish. sion close to dryness, and despite despite rela- There’s a smooth, rich texture, showing ample tively soft acids on the finish, it’s nicely balanced. flavors of ripe stone fruit, floral notes and honey. Karl Erbes 2008 Ürziger Würz- Imported by Zenzen Wines USA. —J.C. Concentrated, with a moderately long, fresh fin- 89 garten Riesling Kabinett (Mosel); ish. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. $19. This boasts a pretty nose of peach, honey- Max Wagner 2008 Castle Hill Trar- suckle blossom, tangerine and cantaloupe and 84 bacher Schlossberg Riesling Kabi- Gustav Adolph Schmitt 2008 Nier- stony minerality. Lively, juicy texture with a med- nett (Mosel); $24. Pale lemon color. There’s a 90 steiner Auflangen Riesling ley of zesty citrus fruit, and fresh stone-fruit fla- slightly resinous nose with strong earthy over- Spätlese (Rheinhessen); $12. Inviting nose vors. Hints of honey and blossoms and a lingering tones and hints of citrus. Racy, almost tart and a of intense mellow, yellow fruit with notably minerality linger on the finish. bit jagged across the palate. Moderate flavor focused minerality, some spice and a hint of flow- intensity of lemon and grapefruit sherbet. Lacks ers. Off dry and beautifully balanced by the crisp Caspari-Kappel 2008 Enkircher some flesh, and finishes a touch short. Imported acidity and generous flavors of delicious, juicy 88 Batterieberg Riesling Kabinett by Maxhof Imports. fruit, this is richly textured, yet taut and elegant.

WineMag.com | 5 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Long, persistent, layered finish. Imported by ness and acidity slightly awkwardly on the palate. Rothburg 2009 Riesling Spätlese Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Imported by Weingut Markus Molitor. 84 (Mosel); $11. A medium-bodied, slightly chunky Riesling, this lacks the elegance Joh. Jos. Prüm 2008 Wehlener Josef Rosch 2008 Trittenheimer and finesse of the best Mosel wines, but still 90 Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 88 Apotheke Riesling Spätlese manages a tasty balance of sweet and tart, with (Mosel); $NA. Delicate lemony color. Fragrant (Mosel); $32. Light nose, not showing much apple, citrus and earthy notes all combining on nose of peach and apricot crème pastry, with intensity on this pale gold Riesling. Slightly the palate. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. —J.C. hints of sherbet and grapefruit and a stony min- resinous, showing more on the palate with ripe eral focus. Crisp, racy with a youthful fruit cock- stone-fruit flavors, hints of melon and pineapple. tail medley of flavors. Light-bodied but focused Quite sweet and rich, with slightly syrupy texture. RIESLING AUSLESE and taut. Not hugely concentrated, but well bal- Pleasing but straightforward and simple. anced and persistent. Imported by Valckenberg Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. Schloss Johannisberger 2007 Ros- International, Inc. 93 alack Riesling Auslese (Rheingau); Pamona Cellars 2007 Riesling $NA/375 ml. This succulent, almost tender, Wittmann 2007 Westhofener 88 Spätlese (Mosel); $10. Broad aromas wine starts off with lovely aromas of honey and 90 Morstein Riesling Spätlese (Rhein- of ripe yellow fruit and a hint of flint on the bergamot, adding hints of apricot and vanilla in hessen); $38. Medium-gold color with pro- palate. Sweet and moderately rich in texture, but the mouth. It’s a soft, lush style, rather sweet, nounced aromas of ripe yellow fruits and honey, slightly loose knit and simple, with attractively with a long, mouthwatering finish. It may not be and hints of warm earth, savory root vegetables ripe and juicy stone-fruit flavors and a touch of as long-lived as some 2007s, but it should remain and spice. Sweet and richly textured, but refresh- minerality shining through on the finish. delectable for another 10 years or so. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc.—J.C. ingly crisp. Vibrant flavors follow through on the Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. palate showing strong mineral notes. Broad but Schloss Saarstein 2008 Serrig firm palate and a long lingering lively finish. Bollig-Lehnert 2009 Piesporter Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese 93 87 Auslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); $56/375 ml. (Mosel); $22. This sweet spätlese displays some Schloss Saarstein’s auslese is remarkably consis- Clusserath-Weiler 2008 rather funky, sweaty aromas, but also ample apple tent year to year, testament to the greatness of Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling and citrus fruit, and the resulting combination is 89 the site and the quality of the farming and wine- Spätlese (Mosel); $31. The restrained nose both likable and complex. The crisp, green-apple making. The 2008 features cool, slate-driven shows some white peach notes, lees and stony finish fades a bit quickly, but this is a pleasant scents softened just slightly by hints of superripe minerality. This is complex, layered and persist- warm-weather sipper. Imported by Winesellers apples and ripe apricot. This medium-bodied ent across the palate, opening up to ample stone Ltd. —J.C. wine is clean and tightly focused, with the sweet- fruit flavors, earthy notes, dried herbs and spice. ness admirably balanced by crisp acids. Should Crisp, with sweetness, moderately concentrated Johann Falkenburg 2009 Late Har- age 15 years or more. Imported by Valckenberg flavors and a rich texture all in balance, if a little vest Riesling Spätlese (Mosel); 85 International, Inc. —J.C. loose knit on the finish. Imported by Magellan $10. A soft, easy style that should have broad Wine Imports. appeal, this modest spätlese marries slightly con- Dr. Loosen 2008 Ürziger Würz- fected, ripe fruit flavors with more balanced cit- garten Riesling Auslese (Mosel); Joh. Haart 2008 Piesporter 92 rusy notes. Drink now. Imported by Prestige $42. Mid gold in color, this wine displays unctu- Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese 89 Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. ous aromas of honey, ripe apricot, wildflowers (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); $20. Pale gold color and slate. Sweet, but has a lovely raciness on the wine, with attractive floral nose hints, honey, slate Moselland 2009 Riesling Spätlese palate. The plump peach and apricot flavors are and some obvious sulfur. Racy with a crisp juicy 85 (Mosel); $18. This spätlese from the layered with hints of anise, slate and honey that texture, lemony and moderately taut. Sweet with huge Moselland cooperative does a decent job at come across as very pure and elegant. Taut, ample citrus and white peach flavors on the balancing hints of softly ripe peaches with taut focused palate and a long, juicy minerally finish. palate. Evident minerality on the finish adds grapefruity elements, all reinforced by a rather Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. complexity. Reasonably long length. sinewy palate feel. Drink now. Imported by Halby Marketing. —J.C. Dr. Loosen 2008 Erdener Prälat Markus Molitor 2007 Bernkasteler 92 Riesling Auslese (Mosel); $42/375 89 Badstube Riesling Spätlese Flying Ace 2009 Riesling Spätlese ml. This auslese is less obviously fruity than (Mosel); $29. Pale gold color. Broad and aro- 84 (Mosel); $11. Smells of baby powder, many of Loosen’s recent efforts, with a smoky, matic, showing ripe yellow peach and nectarine, green apple and lime make for a promising start, fuel-oil overlay to the honeyed and stone-like fla- hints of honey, dried herbs and an earthy miner- but this wine turns sweet and a bit flabby on the vors. At only 7.5% alcohol, it’s sweet yet not ality. Fuller body and weightier on the palate palate, as the bubble gum and cotton candy fla- heavy, balanced by bright acidity and a hint of than expected. Slightly loose knit but shows vors are only partially balanced by modest acidity. prickly CO2 still in evidence. Drink it over the ample ripe stone-fruit flavors that balance sweet- Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. —J.C.

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 next 15–20 years. Imported by Loosen Bros. coats the whole palate and lingers to a sweet but ling Auslese (Mosel); $19. Notes of honey USA. —J.C. vibrantly juicy finish. Imported by Frederick and cinnamon combine with a slightly musky Wildman & Sons, Ltd. spice note to give this sweet auslese added inter- Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann- est. It’s round in the mouth without being soft or 92 Jordan 2008 Forster Jesuiten- Bollig-Lehnert 2008 Dhroner Hof- flabby in the slightest, with lingering notes of garten Riesling Auslese (Pfalz); $74/ 90 berger Riesling Auslese *** baked apple on the finish. Imported by Scoperta 375 ml. A lush, sweet auslese, the 2008 Jesuiten- (Mosel); $24. Lemon in color, with pronounced Importing Co. Inc. —J.C. garten from von Bassermann-Jordan is unctuous floral aromas—elder-flower, honeysuckle and aca- in texture and laden with tropical fruit, with just cia—alongside white peaches and nectarines. Max Wagner 2006 Trarbacher enough citrus for balance. It finishes long and There’s a strong mineral focus on the nose. Sweet, 89 Schlossberg Riesling Auslese sweet, but clean, inviting one back for another yet deliciously crisp and juicy, with ample flavor (Mosel); $29/375 ml. On the drier side for an sip. Drink now–2025, possibly longer. Imported concentration. Taut and lively, and has a long min- auslese, with the alcohol reaching 10%, this wine by Valckenberg International, Inc. —J.C. erally finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. features hints of apricot and pineapple mar- malade, but there are also less pristine earthy, Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Abst- Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) fungal notes that some may read as complex 92 berg 149 Riesling Auslese (Mosel); 90 2008 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling while others may find them slightly dirty. Crisp $58. This wonderful auslese offers volume and Auslese (Mosel); $NA. Mid-gold in color., this and linear on the finish. Drink now–2015. richness without weight—it’s a sort of fluffy cus- has quite a broad bouquet—ripe stone fruit, Imported by Maxhof Imports. —J.C. tard in texture, loaded with funky, leesy notes on honey, white flowers and a strong stony mineral the nose but also with passion fruit, green apple focus. Sweet, smooth and rich in texture, yet Markus Molitor 2008 Zeltinger and pineapple notes on the palate. Yes, it’s sweet, crisp, refreshing and brimming with lively flavors. 86 Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese but the acids provide beautiful balance on the Very long and persistent, with complex layers of (Mosel); $66. Sweet, rich and soft, this is a nice finish. Drink now–2025. Imported by Valcken- flavor that linger on the finish. Imported by Val- wine, but in the context of site, producer and vin- berg International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C. ckenberg International, Inc. tage, a bit of a disappointment. Honey and clove flavors lack extra dimensions of complexity and Dr. Loosen 2008 Wehlener Son- Joh. Jos. Prüm 2008 Wehlener focus, finishing without the expected balancing 91 nenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel); 90 Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese zing of acidity. Imported by Weingut Markus $42. A pale, lemon color Riesling. The complex (Mosel); $NA. Pale lemony color. Some initial Molitor. —J.C. nose of honey, delicate stone fruit, elder-flower reductive notes blow off to reveal a classic Mosel and stony minerality is deliciously inviting, while nose of delicate flowers, white stone fruit and intense, focused ripe fruit prevails all across the slate. Crisp, elegant, juicy and packed with RIESLING BA palate. This is sweet, yet crisp and oozing fresh- mouthwatering stone fruit and citrus flavors. Very ness, with a taut, lively texture. Very long, com- minerally, taut and focused, with tremendous St. Urbans-Hof 2008 Leiwener plex and subtle at the same time. Imported by length and a persistent, juicy finish. Imported by 96 Laurentiuslay Riesling Beeren- Loosen Bros. USA. Valckenberg International, Inc. auslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); $175/ 375 ml. From a vintage not known for its super- Joh. Jos. Prüm 2008 Graacher Maximin Grünhäuser 2009 Bru- sweet selections, this wine is a revelation. Honey 91 Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 90 derberg Jungfernwein Riesling and bergamot notes mingle easily on the nose, (Mosel); $NA. A delicate nose of complex aro- Auslese (Mosel); $82. From young vines, this while the palate unfolds to reveal layers of honey, mas with striking stony minerality goes alongside is a sweet, slightly simple, but nicely balanced dried apricots and orange marmalade. It’s rich, aromas of honeysuckle, white lilac, elder flower wine, displaying plenty of ripe apple and citrus viscous and concentrated without any heaviness, and white peach. Very taut yet filigreed on the flavors. The lingering, honeyed sweetness is bal- with a finish that’s sweet and lingering. This palate, this pale, lemon-colored wine is sweet, yet anced on the finish by just a trace of astringency. should age through 2040 easily. Imported by HB crisp and poised. Ample juicy ripe fruit flavors Drink now–2020. Imported by Valckenberg Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —J.C. persist across the palate and lead to a long and International, Inc. —J.C. layered, refreshing finish. Imported by Valcken- Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jor- berg International, Inc. Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2009 95 dan 2008 Forster Kirchenstück 89 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Riesling Beerenauslese (Pfalz); $239/ Wittmann 2007 Westhofener Auslese (Mosel); $40. Sweet, verging on hon- 375 ml. Hugely sweet and decadent, this is a 91 Morstein Riesling Auslese (Rhein- eyed, this lush wine features plenty of superripe tour de force of botrytized winemaking. Honeyed hessen); $58/500 ml. Complex, intense nose apples balanced by just a dash of citrus and a hint citrus aromas are buoyed by hints of perfume and of fresh honeysuckle, tangerines, marmalade, of bitterness on the finish. Could use more com- spice, with dried apricot flavors accented by spice, dried apricots, golden raisins and an earthy plexity. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. spiced honey. Mouthcoating, rich and impossibly minerality abound. Delightfully rich and sweet, long, this wine should easily age for 40 or more but lively and fresh, with nicely balanced racy Gräflich von Hohenthal’Scher years. Imported by Valckenberg International, acidity. Generous concentration of flavor that 89 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Ries- Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C.

WineMag.com | 6 1 BUYING I GUIDE

Schloss Johannisberger 2008 at 10% abv. So it may not be as sweet as expected, intense and reasonably taut, if a little austere. 92 Rosa-Goldlack Riesling Beeren- but it still shows razor-like focus, with the resid- Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. auslese (Rheingau); $NA/375 ml. A depar- ual sweetness balanced by bright pink grapefruit ture from the last couple of vintages, with a and pineapple notes. Imported by Winesellers Nollen 2008 Notorious Rooster unique scent of chestnuts adding interest to the Ltd. —J.C. 89 Riesling (Mosel); $10. Pale lemony sweet, concentrated notes of honey and orange color. Classic Mosel nose of stone, slate, white marmalade. It’s an odd, different accent, yet the Maximin Grünhäuser 2008 Her- peach and flower blossoms. Vibrant and crisp, balance of sweetness and bracing acidity is spot 93 renberg Riesling Eiswein (Mosel- balancing the sweetness on the palate and result- on. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. Saar-Ruwer); $50/375 ml. Shows lovely ing in a wine with a juicy texture and moderate —J.C. balance between intense sweetness and crisp intensity, turning racy on the finish. Not overly acidity, so that the wine’s honeyed citrus notes complex, but refined. Imported by Admiral Schloss Johannisberger 2007 Rosa- really sing. Hints of marmalade, clove and a per- Imports. Best Buy. 91 Goldlack Riesling Beerenauslese fumed, slightly minty note all add complexity. (Rheingau); $NA/375 ml. Moderately sweet Delicious now, and probably for a good many Trullo 2008 Riesling (Rheinhessen); and viscous, without the intense concentration years to come. Imported by Valckenberg Interna- 89 $10. Pale gold color, this has a rather seen in some of the vintage’s BAs, this remains a tional, Inc. —J.C. reduced nose at first that slowly gives way to ripe skilfully balanced wine, with candied pineapple, stone fruit aromas and an earthy, savory note. Not citrus and honey balanced by fresh acidity. Drink Schloss Johannisberger 2008 Ex very complex, but displays vibrant citrus and it over the next 25 years or so. Imported by Valck- 86 Bibliotheca Subterranea Riesling stone-fruit flavors that impart a pleasant tingle to enberg International, Inc.—J.C. Eiswein (Rheingau); $NA/375 ml. An odd the midpalate. Fairly light-bodied and easy drink- ing, with a moderate fruity finish. Imported by bird, this wine is almost pungent, with intense, Max Wagner 2006 Trabener Würz- Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. earthy aromas that carry a nutty edge. It’s hugely garten Riesling Beerenauslese 90 thick and viscous (and sweet), but the candied (Mosel); $49/375 ml. This wine boasts a lovely Wittmann 2008 Riesling Trocken orange flavors lack a bit of balancing acidity. nose redolent of dried apricots and bergamot, (Rheinhessen); $25. Slightly closed at Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc.—J.C. 89 with fresh, mossy hints on the background. On first, but slowly opens to reveal ripe stone fruits, the palate, it’s medium bodied, not overly sweet hints of white flowers and an earthy minerality. or concentrated but with clean melon and citrus OTHER RIESLING Dry, with racy acidity that is balanced by lots of flavors that finish clean and fresh. Imported by lively stone-fruit and citrus flavors. Palate is nicely Maxhof Imports.—J.C. taut and elegant. Moderately long, juicy finish. Caspari-Kappel 2008 Hoch- Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. 90 gewächs Süss Riesling (Mosel); $18. RIESLING TBA Mid-gold in color, featuring broad, layered Dr. Peter Poontinger 2008 aromas of ripe yellow stone fruit, ruby red grape- Medium-dry Riesling (Rhein- fruit and mineral notes. Concentrated flavors 88 Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jor- hessen); $10. Pale gold in color. The savory, prevail across the palate showing crisp citrus 97 dan 2008 Deidesheimer Hohen- earthy nose shows dried herbs and a hint of morgen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese fruits, nectarines, white peaches and hints of honey. This is off-dry, but very well balanced by (Pfalz); $245/375 ml. Exceeds even this pro- honey. Racy acidity balances the sweetness, as crisp acidity, leaving it refreshing across the ducer’s stunning beerenauslese, featuring an even does its firm, taut texture, which gives the wine palate. Moderately intense juicy citrus, can- more intoxicating perfume of honey, dried apri- focus. Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. taloupe and nectarine flavors. A little loose knit cots and candied pineapple, with slightly more and simple on the finish. Imported by Paulaner acidity to provide balance to the extra level of Wittmann 2008 Westhofener HP USA. Best Buy. sweetness, so much so that this wine comes 90 Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen); across as refreshing on the finish, despite the $47. Mid-gold in color, with attractive aromas of Kühling-Gillot 2009 Qvinterra incredibly high levels of sugar. Drink now–2050, ripe stone fruits. Focused by earthy minerality, 88 Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen); possibly longer. Imported by Valckenberg Inter- this is dry and crisp, with abundant fruit in the $16. Not a stereotypical fruity Riesling, the 2009 national, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C. mouth: peach, apricot, orange peel and spice. Qvinterra features plenty of savory, umami-like Nicely balanced, with a long, minerally finish. notes of broth and brine to go along with hints of Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. sun-warmed peaches. It’s medium bodied, with a RIESLING EISWEIN long, velvety-textured finish unusual for a white Egon Müller 2008 Scharzhof Ries- wine. Intriguing. Imported by Domaine Select Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2008 89 ling (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); $25. Pre- Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 93 Bernkasteler Johannisbrünnchen vailing lemony, citrus-cocktail aromas with hints of Riesling Eiswein(Mosel); $95/375 ml. almond macaroons. Though medium sweet, it is Rheingraf 2009 Bingen Riesling Realistically priced for genuine German eiswein, lip-smackingly crisp and racy, with zesty citrus fla- 88 Trocken (Rheinhessen); $NA. This this is also rather alcoholic for most, weighing in vors following through on the palate. Moderately wine starts off a bit funky and earthy on the nose,

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 but opens up to reveal more floral and lime-like Blue Fish 2009 Sweet Riesling Moselland 2008 Zeller Schwarze scents. At 13% alcohol, it’s medium bodied and 85 (Pfalz); $9. The Blue Fish Rieslings are 83 Katz Riesling (Mosel); $15. The impressively dry tasting, with lime blossom and decent efforts from the Niederkirchen coopera- “black cat” Riesling I remember from my child- pineapple fruit balanced by crisp acids. Drink tive. The 2009 Sweet Riesling features ripe pear hood rides again, with modest green apple notes now. Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc. and melon balanced by crisp pineapple notes. It’s accented by bits of earth and citrus. It’s off dry —J.C. rather soft and sweet, but since that’s what it’s and soft, yet with a slightly sour edge to the fin- supposed to be, it’s hard to quibble, especially at ish. Imported by Halby Marketing. —J.C. Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2009 the price. Imported by Palm Bay International. 88 Kirchenschlüssel Riesling Trocken Best Buy. —J.C. (Rheinhessen); $62. Fresh-smelling, like citrus GEWÜRZTRAMINER and green herbs or grass, this medium-bodied Blue Fish 2009 Original Riesling Riesling is not very fruity, displaying a more sand- 85 (Pfalz); $9. Light in body despite Fitz-Ritter 2008 Gewürztraminer stone-mineral character on the palate. There’s a 12.5% alcohol, this lithe, sinewy Riesling is 89 Spätlese (Pfalz); $22. Mid-gold in vaguely umami aspect to it as well, as it ends on a almost dry in style, with zippy pineapple and cit- color, this has a pronounced classic Gewürz- mouthwatering beefy or briny note. Drink now. rus fruit tracing a lean path down the palate. traminer nose of lychee, rose petals, spice and Imported by Valckenberg International, Inc.—J.C. Drink now. Imported by Palm Bay International. ripe stone fruit with notes of earthy minerality. Best Buy. —J.C. Sweet and richly textured, round mouthfeel with Sun Garden 2007 Riesling (Mosel); moderately intense flavors similar to nose with 87 $11. Mid-gold in color, with a richly Bree 2009 Riesling (Pfalz); $10. an added note of stem ginger and smoky spice honeyed nose, slightly caramel like, showing 85 This soft yet mouthwatering Riesling is on the finish. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. ultraripe yellow fruits, spice and earthy tuber plump and medium bodied, with apple, citrus notes. Earthiness and sweet ripeness follow and melon notes finishing clean and correct. G&M Machmer 2008 Bechtheimer through on the palate, but it tastes quite fresh. Drink now. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. 89 Stein Gewürztraminer Spätlese Loose knit, but simple and easy drinking. Fin- Best Buy. —J.C. (Rheinhessen); $15. There’s an appealing nose ishes slightly short with a resinous kick. Imported of ripe yellow stone fruit, spice and an earthy by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. Josef Rosch 2009 Leiwener minerality. Medium-sweet with a lovely rich tex- 85 Klostergarten Riesling Halb- ture, fleshy, but well balanced by the refreshing Villa Wolf 2009 Dry Riesling trocken (Mosel); $17. If this wine’s aromas acidity. Smooth and broad across the palate, 87 (Pfalz); $12. Part of Dr. Loosen’s sta- don’t exactly burst from the glass, that’s OK, showing strong flavor intensity that lingers. Long, ble, this is a reasonably dry Riesling at a reason- because the modest citrus notes are clean and with a persistent layered, minerally finish. able price. Petrichor and grapefruit lead the way, fresh, balancing a bit of sweetness against crisp Imported by Winesellers Ltd. with hints of riper citrus fruits helping to round acids. Drink now. Imported by Magellan Wine out the midpalate. Ends on notes of anise, Imports. —J.C. Villa Wolf 2009 Gewürztraminer crushed stone and citrus. Imported by Loosen 89 (Pfalz); $12. Pale gold in color, with a Bros. USA. Best Buy. —J.C. Escher Haus 2009 Riesling (Pfalz); fairly pronounced nose of orange citrus rind, 84 $14. Light almost to the point of incon- dried herbs, pear drops and lime sherbet. Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2009 sequence, this floral, citrusy Riesling is off dry in Medium sweet and fruity, not terribly complex 87 Wormser Liebfrauenstift-Kirchen- style, with modest apple and citrus flavors. Drink but nicely juicy and well balanced with an attrac- stück Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen); now. Imported by Winery Exchange. —J.C. tive spicy kick on the finish. Youthful, refreshing $62. A bit lighter in body and fruitier in style and easy-drinking. Imported by Loosen Bros. than the very similar 2009 Kirchenschlüssel, this Josef Rosch 2008 J.R. Junior Ries- USA. Best Buy. dry Riesling displays crisp apple and citrus fla- 84 ling (Mosel); $24. Uncharacteristically vors alongside deeper, earthier, more savory earthy and spicy for a Mosel wine, with flavors of Villa Wolf 2008 Gewürztraminer notes. Imported by Valckenberg International, loam accented by musky spice notes. It’s off dry 89 (Pfalz); $12. Pale to mid-gold in color Inc. —J.C. in style yet relatively broad on the palate, again with a heady nose of exotic spice, rose water and setting itself apart from the mainstream. floral blossoms with a hint of smoke. Round and Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2009 Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. —J.C. warming on the palate. Sweet yet fresh and juicy 87 Wormser Riesling Trocken (Rhein- with moderate intensity of citrus and stone fruit hessen); $42. To judge by its nose, this Moselland 2008 Riesling (Mosel); flavors. Some savory earthy notes on a moder- medium-bodied Riesling is quiet and introverted. 84 $16. From one of Germany’s biggest ately long finish. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. And the flavors are also relatively neutral, with a cooperative wineries, this is a pleasant, if some- Best Buy. slight earthiness and savory character defining its what modestly concentrated Riesling. Apple and profile. Has the same lingering beefy-brininess citrus flavors don’t show a ton of complexity, but Weingut Georg Albrecht Schnei- on the finish as the other Liebfruenstift wines, they’re clean and varietally correct, with the sugar 88 der 2008 Niersteiner Oelberg just not as intense. Imported by Valckenberg balanced by adequate acids. Drink now. Gewürztraminer Spätlese (Rheinhessen); International, Inc. —J.C. Imported by Halby Marketing. —J.C. $17. Ripe aromas of fig, marmalade and honey,

WineMag.com | 6 3 BUYING I GUIDE with hints of resin and balsamic. This is sweet ing ample flavors of ripe orchard and stone fruit, and richly textured, but slightly heavy and low in with spice and balsamic notes adding complex- RED WINES acid. Moderately high flavor intensity showing ity. Long length and a persistent savory finish. similar flavors as on the nose. Fairly long, but Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. Villa Wolf 2009 Pinot Noir (Pfalz); shows a touch bitterness on the finish. Imported 88 $NA. Pale ruby color. Predominantly by Winesellers Ltd. Knipser 2008 Chardonnay-Weiss- earthy savory aromas with hints of baked red 90 burgunder Trocken (Pfalz); $25. fruit. Medium bodied, slightly chunky and rus- Sun Garden 2007 Gewürztraminer Slight hint of sulfur at first, but it blows off and tic, with grippy tannins, but ample flavors of ripe 87 (Pfalz); $10. Mid-gold in color. Earthy, the nose opens to reveal a rich medley of ripe red fruits and earthy minerality. Fairly long finish. heady, herbal nose with notes of tangy lime mar- orchard fruit tinged with dried tarragon and Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. malade. Sweet, with a creamy, smooth texture. savory spice. Crisp, bright and laden with a patch- Tangy citrus flavors follow through with hints of work of flavors: ripe apples, pears and stone fruit Andreas Bender 2008 Cabernet resinous herbs. Pleasant and easy-drinking but against a backdrop of earthy minerality. Broad yet 87 Sauvignon (Pfalz); $28. Fairly intense with only moderate length and an earthy finish. only medium bodied, with a moderately long fin- aromas of jammy black and red fruit: plums, Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best ish. Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. blackberries and cassis, with notes of coffee and Buy. vanilla. On the palate, this is warm, with lots of Dr. Wehrheim 2008 Buntsandstein sweet baking spices and baked black fruit. Fairly Starling Castle 2008 Gewürz- Weisser Burgunder Trocken simple with a slightly syrupy texture and a warm, traminer (Pfalz); $10. 89 86 There’s a sim- (Pfalz); $NA. Earthy on the nose, with savory spicy finish. Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. ple nose of tangy orange marmalade on this aromas, fern fronds and ultraripe yellow fruit. Bree 2009 Pinot Noir (Pfalz); $10. medium-gold colored wine. Similar flavors follow This is dry and racy—almost a little tart—show- through on the palate with zingy lime-sherbet Quite subdued on the nose, with delicate ing moderately intense flavors of ripe melons, 87 notes. Sweet but racy enough to compensate. notes of mixed wild berries and a savory earthi- Golden Delicious apples and Bosc pears. A little Still, this is a bit one dimensional and lacking ness. Light-bodied and refreshing, with soft tan- skeletal for the crispness but juicy and refreshing, depth of flavor. Pleasant and easy-drinking, with nins and moderate intensity of red berries: with a long and savory earthy finish. Imported by moderate length. Imported by Prestige Wine cranberries, loganberries and wild strawberries. Magellan Wine Imports. Group. Best Buy. Fairly simple, but an honest, pale ruby-colored wine. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. Louis Guntrum 2007 Scheurebe G&M Machmer 2004 Bechtheimer Kabinett (Rheinhessen); $14. The Rosengarten Gewürztraminer 88 Andreas Bender 2008 Pinot Noir 82 appealing nose of lemony-lime aromas features a Eiswein (Rheinhessen); $34/375 ml. Sweet (Pfalz); $28. Pale ruby core with slight hint of honey. This medium-sweet wine with a 86 and broad, this eiswein displays a distinctly sour garnet rim. Moderately intense earthy aromas, gripping crispness is fairly light-bodied and edge to its flavors, which proved offputting to this leather, dried cherries and a hint of caramel draw slightly loose-knit, but refreshing, with moder- taster. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. you in, while the palate is medium-bodied, with a ately intense flavors of citrus cocktail. A nice rustic grip to the tannins. Fairly warm and earthy kick chimes in on the finish. Imported by chunky in texture, with flavors of ripe baked red OTHER WHITE WINES Broadbent Selections, Inc. fruits. Crisp acidity helps keep the balance. Slightly hot on the finish. Imported by Magellan Dr. Zenzen 2007 Icewine (Rhein- Fitz-Ritter 2008 Dürkheimer Spiel- Wine Imports. 91 berg Chardonnay Spätlese 87 hessen); $28/375 ml. A blend of Trocken (Pfalz); $24. Medium gold in color. Weissburgunder and Sylvaner, this accessibly Knipser 2007 Blauer Spätburgun- Attractive nose, quite citrussy, orange with floral priced Icewine features aromas of honey, caramel 85 der Trocken (Pfalz); $25. Very earthy notes and a touch of honey. Layered and reason- and citrus, with flavors of honey, tea and citrus aromas of root tubers, roast meat and a hint of ably complex. Dry and richly textured on the that are sweet and enjoyable without being pro- strawberry gumdrop. This is medium-bodied, palate and medium bodied. Nicely taut and well found. Overall, it’s soft and sweet; fine as an with grippy tannins, and comes across as slightly balanced with ample ripe orchard and melon affordable by-the-glass offering. Imported by awkward and warm on the palate, with flavors of fruit. Evident minerality right across the palate to Zenzen Wines USA. —J.C. jammy red fruit. Fairly simple, with a relatively the finish, which is persistent, layered and savory. short warm finish. Imported by Magellan Wine Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Villa Wolf 2009 Pinot Gris (Pfalz); Imports. 86 $NA. Pale gold in color. Slightly sweet Dr. Wehrheim 2008 Muschelkalk and candied aromas prevail: pear drops and white 90 Weissburgunder Trocken (Pfalz); flowers. Similar flavors appear on the fairly light- ROSÉ WINES $37. A wine with an inviting nose of ripe fruit, bodied palate. This is fresh, fruity and easy to layered with notes of honey and lovely, savory- drink, but lacking any great depth or flavor inten- Heitlinger 2008 Sunset Twilight earthy minerality. This is broad across the palate, sity. A slight bitter note is noticeable on the fin- 88 Rosé (Baden); $14. An attractive nose with a smooth rich texture. Dry and fresh, featur- ish. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. of wild strawberries, red currants and cranber-

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 ries is followed by a dry, nicely round feeling on with a lingering finish displaying minerality and a food-friendly red from Greece. Balanced miner- the palate, with a medley of ripe wild forest fruit touch of cocoa. Imported by Hellas Import Lim- ality and a delicate fruit character offer a lighter and a savory earthy note. This medium-bodied ited. —S.K. touch than many Greek reds. Cocoa, plum and wine displays ample flavor intensity and a spice dominate. Pair with grilled lamb, sausages. smooth, moderately long finish. Imported by Kouros 2006 Agiorgitiko (Nemea); Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. USA Wine Imports. 84 $12. Bright cherry and red currant aro- mas are followed by flavors of currant, cedar, Chrisohoou 2005 Estate Xino- Villa Wolf 2009 Pinot Noir Rosé spice and black tea in this assertive red. Clean, 87 mavro (Naoussa); $22. Sweet cedar, 87 (Pfalz); $12. Candied nose of sweet red perky and fresh, it’s a fun everyday wine that will cigarbox and allspice lead the nose on this currants, cherries and savory herbs. On the pair well with grilled meat dishes, tomato-based embraceable Greek red. On the palate, soft tan- palate, this is quite warm, with mild cherry com- pasta dishes and hard cheeses. Imported by nins, bright red fruit and spice offer a clean, dry pote, forest floor and earthy flavors. Simple and a Nestor Imports. —S.K. character. The finish is smoky and lingering. Not little dilute, but easy drinking, with a pleasantly overly complicated but definitely a fine Greek fruity finish. Imported by Loosen Bros. USA. Kourtaki 2005 1.5 L Agiorgitiko red. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. Best Buy. 83 (Nemea); $17. A nose of violets, tobacco, red fruit and spice start this easygoing Pavlou-Kagas 2006 Klima Xino- Agiorgitiko from Greece. Classic red fruit and mavro (Macedonia); $17. Mint, cola GREECE spice flavors are delivered in a friendly, clean 83 package. Pair with grilled lamb, hamburgers and pepper lead on this lighter-style red from RED WINES Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. Pavlou. The wine offers linear flavors of tea leaves, spice and smoke. Overall, a simple wine AGIORGITIKO with a spicy finish. Imported by Wonderful CABERNET SAUVIGNON Ethnic Imports. —S.K. Estate Constantin Gofas 2008 88 Mythic River Agiorgitiko (Nemea); Haggipavlu 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- $12. Cinnamon, spice, leather and forest fruit 88 gnon (Peloponnese); $20. Black RED BLENDS leads the nose of this balanced, elegant red. fruit, mint and spice lead the nose of this smooth Tobacco and spice are wound together with a number. On the palate, waves of red berry, Estate Constantin Gofas 2006 Red clean minerality and crisp acid. The wine finishes plums, violet and wood dominate. A lush wine 90 (Nemea); $18. This refined red offers light but has depth. Versatile and friendly. with style and complexity. Imported by Wonder- aromas of anise, cigarbox and cinnamon, followed Imported by Testa Wines of the World. Best ful Ethnic Imports. —S.K. by flavors of cocoa, dried berries and spice. Buy. —S.K. Smooth, balanced and sultry, the wine offers a Oenoforos 2009 Asprolithi Caber- silky texture while at the same time maintaining My Big Fat Greek Wine 2008 Pri- 85 net Sauvignon (Peloponnese); its firm backbone. Luxurious and unique. 88 vate Label Agiorgitiko (Nemea); $15. Cedar, vanilla violets—the nose on the Imported by Testa Wines Of The World. Edi- $NA. This intriguing red starts with blackberry, Cabernet is both masculine and soft. On the tors’ Choice. —S.K. cedar and earthy forest floor aromas, leading into palate, plum, cherry and violet flavors are deliv- flavors of cola, forest fruit, cedar and spice. Lin- ered in a friendly, fruity package, an approach- Tsantali 2005 Rapsani Reserve ear, clean and elegant, the wine is food friendly able red with a spicy finish. Good for grilled meat 89 (Halkidiki); $19. The Rapsani Reserve and can age. A stylish choice for myriad palates. and stew. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. starts with aromas of bitter cocoa, leather and Imported by Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. tobacco, leading into savory sips of plum, choco- Cambas 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon late, pepper and cinnamon. Intense and assertive, Mediterra 2007 Agiorgitiko (Pelo- (Peloponnese); $13. The nose on this 84 this wine will offer more generous black fruit as it ponnese); $25. The nose starts with Cabernet has a sultry character, offering aromas 86 ages. A serious wine that pairs with robust meat violets, vanilla, strawberry and cherry, followed of forest floor, cedar, red berry and mushroom. dishes. Imported by Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. by bright red fruit flavors of strawberry and On the palate, tobacco, leather, cedar and spice cherry with an undercurrent of dark chocolate give it a masculine edge. Food pairing will take Domaine Gerovassiliou 2005 Ava- and cracked black pepper. A solid red that will off the smoky edge, as will aging. An intriguing pair well with grilled meats and soft cheeses. sip. Imported by Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. 88 ton Single Estate (Epanomi); $60. Imported by Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. This single-estate red starts with savory warming spice aromas of cinnamon and clove with a touch Cambas 2006 Reserve Agiorgitiko XINOMAVRO of red fruit, rolling into flavors of sweet cedar, 85 (Nemea); $15. Aromas of fennel, flow- smoke and plum on the palate. The wine is easy ers, nuts and red fruit give this wine an interest- Chrisohoou 2006 Xinomavro drinking with a soft touch. Approachable and ing start. Clean, dry and spicy with flavors of 88 (Naoussa); $16. A delicate nose of pretty. Imported by Angels’ Share Wine Imports, cherry, black pepper and crushed herb, it ends cola, cocoa powder and white pepper leads this LLC. —S.K.

WineMag.com | 6 5 BUYING I GUIDE

Estate Raptis 2004 Red Rock (Pelo- leather. Spicy but balanced by a good minerality, and pretty. A great everyday wine with grace. 87 ponnese); $28. Sweet cedar, black the wine will pair well with salty, hard cheeses Imported by Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. fruit and vanilla aromas are followed by appealing and grilled lamb. A fun find. Imported by Testa flavors of cocoa powder, forest fruits and plum Wines Of The World. —S.K. Domaine Gerovassiliou 2007 on the palate. Though not overly complex, the 86 Chardonnay (Epanomi); $60. This wine has character and a rich, lingering finish. wine starts with a touch of spice, orange peel and Imported by Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. GREECE bright white fruits in the nose, followed by A. Parparoussis 2003 Réserve WHITE WINES toasted almond, citrus and vanilla on the palate. 86 (Nemea); $50. Anise, plum and cedar An elegant, full-bodied white with versatile pair- on the nose is followed by flavors if red fruit and ASSYRTICO ing potential—think lobster, cream-based dishes. wood. The finish offers spice and pepper. Slightly Imported by Angels’ Share Wine Imports, LLC. stewy but overall a friendly red that will pair well Boutari 2009 Assyrtico (Santorini); —S.K. with smoky meat. Imported by Angels’ Share 89 $20. Still one of the standards for a Wine Imports, LLC. —S.K. clean, crisp Assytriko. The Boutari offers citrus Hatzi Michalis 2008 Chardonnay and minerals in the nose, and a clean, zippy snap 84 (Atalanti Valley); $17. Lemon, citrus Kourtaki 2008 Vin de Crete Red of fresh fruit and sea salt on the palate. Light, and spice lead on the nose of this easy-drinking 86 (Crete); $17. Juicy raspberry, plum, elegant and delightful, and fantastic with fresh cherry and vanilla aromas give this red blend a fish, fruit and salads. Imported by Terlato Wines Chardonnay. Clean, fresh citrus flavors are inter- mouthwatering start. On the palate, wooded International. —S.K. twined with honey and vanilla accents. The finish spice, currants and pepper flavors are clean and is spicy and lingering. Imported by Athenee spicy. Approachable and versatile. Imported by San..Torini Winery 2008 Assyrtico Importers. —S.K. Nestor Imports. —S.K. 88 (Santorini); $22. Lemon, cream and spice on the nose are followed by clean, delicate Harlaftis 2007 Chardonnay Mercouri Estate 2000 (Ilias); flavors of fresh fruit and spice on the palate. 83 (Attica); $14. Vanilla, orange mar- $45. 85 Mint, smoked sausage and pepper Slightly more feminine and rounded than the malade and lemon lead this Chardonnay from lead this slightly rigid red. Tea leaves, tobacco average Assyrtiko and thus a bit more approach- Greece. Flavors of tasted nuts, vanilla and citrus and spice on the palate show this wine can age able to American palates, the wine will pair well are bold and rich. Pair with stronger fish dishes well, but may be slightly past its prime. Imported with slightly bigger flavors or spicy ethnic cui- by Athenee Importers. —S.K. sine. Imported by Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. or cream-based entrées. Imported by Athenee Importers. —S.K. Koutsoyiannopoulos 2009 Assyr- OTHER RED WINES 87 tico (Santorini); $19. Racy, fresh but still fruity enough to please a mainstream palate, MALAGAUZIA Loukatos NV Sweet Red Wine this Greek white is elegant and easy drinking. 85 (Mavrodaphne of Patras); $11. Citrus and a touch of sea salt give it an island Porto Carras 2008 Malagauzia Toasted nut, cedar and cigarbox aromas give thus feel. Pair with grilled octopus, olives. Imported 89 (Halkidiki); $22. This exotic white lush dessert wine an earthy feel. On the palate, by Athena Importing Co.. —S.K. starts with aromas of white flowers, lemon and dried nuts and fruit flavors and a spicy finish mint, followed by fuller-bodied flavors of peach, entice. Pair with nuts, cheeses, fruit. Imported apricot and flowers. Balanced with a viscous by Testa Wines Of The World. —S.K. CHARDONNAY mouthfeel. The wine is well-suited for robust Tsantali 2007 Maronia Vineyard Estate Biblia Chora 2007 Ktima dishes—think lobster—but also adds depth to 88 Mavroudi (Thraki); $20. Black 88 Chardonnay (Pangeon); $40. simple grilled fish. Imported by Athenee cherry, red currants and vanilla aromas start this Peach, lemon and orange peel aromas lead this Importers. —S.K. grippy, ageable red from Tsantali. On the palate, balanced, refined Chardonnay. Vanilla and spice cedar, mesquite smoke, black pepper and red are layered with exotic peach, citrus and pineap- Domaine Gerovassiliou 2007 fruit flavors are both spicy and assertive. Pair with ple fruit. A white that offers depth but also a min- 89 Malagousia (Epanomi); $25. Still lamb, olive tapenade, smoked meats. Imported eral finesse. Imported by Angels’ Share Wine one of the benchmark Malagousias of Greece, by Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. Imports, LLC. —S.K. this wine offers aromas of white flowers, peach, Protopapas 2004 Merlot (Pageon); Cambas 2008 Chardonnay (Pelo- lime and lemon peel, followed by delicate waves 86 $17. Pepper, violet, rhubarb and plum 86 ponnese); $13. An appealing nose of of mango, citrus and spice. Refreshing and ele- aromas give this Merlot assertive character. On vanilla lemon and honey leads this distinctive gant, it pairs well with seafood and poultry as well the plate, the wine has equal attitude, delivering Chardonnay. On the palate, lemon, toasted nuts, as spicy Thai cuisine. Imported by Angels’ Share flavors of dried red fruit, tobacco, cigarbox and fresh exotic fruit and spice flavors are balanced Wine Imports, LLC. —S.K.

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 bright lemon spin, the aromas of this SAUVIGNON BLANC Moschofilero are both feminine and crisp. On the SICILY palate, the wine has lushness, with orange blos- Domaine Gerovassiliou 2007 som, melon, citrus flavors delivered in creamy RED WINES 89 Fumé Sauvignon Blanc (Epanomi); wave. Overall, a pretty wine with an elegant flair. $40. This fumé starts with aromas of peach, Imported by Terlato Wines International. —S.K. NERO D’AVOLA vanilla and spice, followed by an elegant balance of citrus fruit, toasted vanilla and lemon zest. Kouros 2008 Roditis (Patras); $12. Donnafugata 2006 Mille e Una Fresh but with added body, this SB will pair well 87 Soft aromas of vanilla, melon and peach 93 Notte (Contessa Entellina); $80. with oilier, bolder flavored fish, cheese, cream give this wine a pretty, subdued air. Appealing to One of the best wines made on the beautiful dishes. Imported by Angels’ Share Wine Imports, fans of lighter whites, the wine still has a floral, island of Sicily, Donnafugata’s Mille e Una Notte LLC. —S.K. filled out character that will pair well with spicy exhibits gorgeous smoothness in the mouth and ethnic cuisine and sweeter fish dishes. Imported exceedingly rich aromas of black currants, choco- Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2009 by Nestor Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. late, spice and tobacco. Under all that are notes 87 Amethystos Sauvignon Blanc of toasted almond and pistachio that are charac- (Drama); $22. Bright citrus fruit and slate Vatistas 2008 Petroulianos (Pelo- teristic of the Nero d’Avola grape. Imported by comes through on the nose of this fresh Sauvi- ponnese); $30. Exotic pineapple and Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. gnon Blanc. Elegant, minerally and spun with sea 87 melon fruit aromas lead on this full-bodied white. salt, it’s lemon and orange character is fun and Feudo Maccari 2006 Saia (Sicilia); On the palate, curvy melon and vanilla are punc- easy drinking. Pair with clams, oysters, grilled $30. Saia is one of a handful of icon tuated by citrus and a spray of minerals. Assertive 90 fish. Imported by Nestor Imports. —S.K. wines from Sicily: It boasts excellent integration with body that can handle bigger flavors, like of oak and fruit (although the wood presence is Michalakis 2008 Green Passion seafood, poultry and fruit. Imported by Wonder- definitely felt) and amazing richness and intensity Sauvignon (Greece); $15. Orange ful Ethnic Imports. —S.K. 86 on the finish. The wine is dense, inviting and very peel, lemon and peach start this uplifting white. long lasting. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. Fresh and fun, it offers flavors of bitter lemon, Cambas 2007 White (Arcadia); $12. lime and slate. Pair with grilled octopus, goat 86 This alluring blend of Roditis and Firriato 2007 Harmonium (Sicilia); cheese or fruit. Imported by Hellas Import Lim- Moschofilero offers elegant aromas of white flow- $NA. Harmonium is a very rich and ited. —S.K. ers and melon, followed by honeyed waves of cit- 90 extracted take on Nero d’Avola that will appeal to rus, flowers and white fruit. Curvy and lush, the those who love thick, extracted, warm climate wine still finishes clean and easy. A fun white for OTHER WHITE WINES wines. It would pair with succulent steak or bar- everyday enjoyment. Imported by Hellas Import becue pork ribs and offers loads of oak and red Limited. —S.K. Estate Constantin Gofas 2009 fruit intensity on the finish. Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. 89 Mythic River White (Korinthia); Kourtaki 2008 Moscofilero-Rhodi- $15. Fresh fruit, peach, vanilla and melon leads 84 tis (Peloponnese); $17/1.5 L. Exotic Viticultori Associati Canicatti 2007 this likeable blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Rodi- fruit and floral aromas start this Moshocfilero- Aynat (Sicilia); $24. tis. Good, racy freshness and citrus and a touch of 89 Made with ripe Roditis blend. On the palate, lush orange cream, slate give the wine a perky character. Delicious Nero d’Avola grapes, this inky red wine offers lemon zest, peach and melon unfold. A bigger with seafood, fresh cheeses and fruit. Imported density, richness and milky aromas of chocolate, white with flair. Pair with fruit, salads. Imported by Athena Importing Co. —S.K. blueberry and creamy berry. There’s a touch of by Nestor Imports. —S.K. bitter spice on the close and the wine tastes Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2009 chewy and soft. Imported by Sober LLC. —M.L. 88 Amethystos White (Drama); $19. This white blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc CYPRUS Brugnano 2007 Lunario (Sicilia); and Assytriko starts with a lovely nose of fresh 88 $26. This is a very distinctive expression white flowers and citrus, followed by clean, SWEET WINE of Nero d’Avola (the wine is aged in oak barrique) refreshing flavors of citrus and spice on the with sweet aromas of cherry cola, Christmas Etko 2000 St. Nicholas Xinisteri palate. The wine offers depth but still maintains spice, cinnamon and clove. It’s soft and silky on the balanced acidity and crisp finish that makes 89 (Commandaria); $20. Alluring aro- the close. Imported by Elite Brands. —M.L. Greek wines so great to pair with food. Think mas of orange peel. Dried apricot, spices and cig- grilled fish, olives, capers. Imported by Nestor arbox lead this historic dessert wine from Cyprus. Caruso & Minini 2007 Cutaja Imports. —S.K. On the palate, waves of bitter orange, cedar and 88 (Sicilia); $20. This oak-aged expression sweet tobacco unfold. The finish is spicy with a offers loads of ripe, jammy fruit followed by root Boutari 2009 Moschofilero (Man- honeyed sweet undertone. Fantastic with nuts. beer, spice, leather and tobacco nuances. The 87 tinia); $17. Floral and alluring with a Imported by Wonderful Ethnic Imports. —S.K. wine is intense, soft, plush and chewy in the

WineMag.com | 6 7 BUYING I GUIDE mouth with rich, succulent tannins. Imported by Vasari 2006 Mamertino (Sicilia); Badabing 2008 Nero d’Avola Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 87 $NA. Mamertino is a warm and succu- 85 (Sicilia); $NA. Badabing shoots forward lent red wine that delivers ripe aromas of cherry, simple fruit tones of cherry, raspberry and cran- Tenuta di Serramarrocco 2006 blackberry and a touch of exotic spice. Imported berry that wash clean over the palate. Pair this 88 Nero di Serramarrocco (Sicilia); by Growers. —M.L. wine with simple pasta or pizza; it’s an easy-drink- $NA. A distinctive expression of Nero d’Avola ing, no-fuss red. Imported by Grape Solutions. with ripe fruit flavors, blackberry preserves, Zisola 2008 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia); —M.L. tobacco, spice and leather. There’s also a note of 87 $25. Owned by the Mazzei brothers dill or wild fennel that speaks highly of the beau- from Chianti Classico in Tuscany, this Sicilian Feudo Montoni 2008 N (Sicilia); tiful Mediterranean island. The wine is think, venture offers elegant interpretations of warm 85 $12. A simple and clean red wine with dense and very powerful on the close. Imported climate winemaking. This luscious red wine fruity aromas of strawberry, blueberry and rasp- by A Marc de Grazia selection; various American shows ripe fruit characteristics and loads of spice berry jam. It’s smooth and soft in the mouth with importers. —M.L. and tobacco. Imported by Palm Bay Interna- sweet berry flavors. Imported by Selected Estates tional. —M.L. of Europe Ltd. —M.L. Baglio di Pianetto 2005 Cembali 87 (Sicilia); $34. Cembali is usually a spot Di Prima 2006 Gibilmoro (Sicilia); Natale Verga 2008 Nero d’Avola on expression of Nero d’Avola, one of Sicily’s best 86 $20. Gibilmoro, a pure expression of 85 (Sicilia); $10. Typical ripe fruit nuances and most elaborate, but the 2005 vintage defi- Nero d’Avola, sees some oak aging to shape aro- of maraschino cherry and dried currant are on nitely seems on the overripe, alcoholic and mas of toasted walnut, nutella and wood spice. display here. The wine is simple and fruity in the jammy side. Ripe fruit aromas, toasted oak and In fact, not much of the natural fruit is left, and mouth and ripe cherry really is the main theme of what is there feels jammy and ripe. Imported by this easy-drinking red. Imported by Jandell Selec- smoked beef jerky push forth from the nose. Frank & Cheech Inc. —M.L. tions. Best Buy. —M.L. Imported by Terlato Wines International. —M.L. Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2009 Oriel 2004 Il Gattopardo (Sicilia); Cantine Barbera 2008 Nero Nero d’Avola (Sicilia); $8. Warm $NA. Opens with overripe notes of d’Avola (Sicilia); $15. Fun, simple 86 84 87 notes of raw, jammy fruit and moderate spice strawberry, cooked cherry and blackberry pre- and highly driven by dark fruit characteristics, emerge from the nose. This native variety usually serves. Because the wine is from the 2004 vin- this informal expression is a versatile partner to shows aromas of cherry, pistachio and almond tage, there are also some tertiary aromas of spice, most meat or pasta recipes. The aromas include and these very characteristics are evident here. cola and tar. Imported by Oriel Wines. —M.L. ripe fruit, blackberry and loads of cherry. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. Buy. —M.L. TerrAmore 2008 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia); $NA. Made with organically Donnafugata 2008 Sedàra 84 MandraRossa 2007 Nero d’Avola grown fruit, this offers simple, no-fuss aromas of (Sicilia); $15. Sedàra offers bright 87 (Sicilia); $10. Aged in stainless steel to cherry, wild berry and raspberry. The wine is cherry flavors backed by dense blackberry and 86 maintain the freshness of the wine’s bright fruit sharp and lively in the mouth and would pair with plum. There’s a bitter almond note on the close, aromas, this is a simple easy-drinking red. The simple pasta dishes and meat ragú. Imported by but all said, this ruby wine offers a lively, all-fruit wine shows good harmony and bright cherry and Saranty Imports. —M.L. experience. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Part- blackberry flavors on the close. Imported by ners. —M.L. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.L. Piccini 2008 Buon Appetito Nero 83 d’Avola (Sicilia); $NA. As its inviting Gulfi 2006 Nerosanlorè (Sicilia); Sallier de la Tour 2008 Nero name suggests, Buon Appetito will whet your 87 $NA. Gulfi regularly produces ripe, 86 d’Avola (Sicilia); $10. This wine appetite for hearty pasta with tomato sauce or extracted wines that show a modern, intense side offers medium consistency and fresh notes of even pizza. This fruit forward wine offers aromas to Sicilian winemaking. This meaty Nero d’Avola mature forest berry, spice and toasted almond. of ripe cherry and blackberry with some green offers thick aromas of exotic spice, black pepper The wine is smooth with fresh crispness on the tones of dried herb at the back. Imported by and jammy blackberry. This big style will not close: Pair it with lasagna or hearty pasta dishes. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L. appeal to everyone. Imported by Selected Estates Best Buy. —M.L. of Europe Ltd. —M.L. Valle dell’Acate 2008 Case Ibidini CABERNET SAUVIGNON Tasca d’Almerita 2007 Regaleali 86 (Sicilia); $15. Case Ibidini, the infor- 87 (Sicilia); $15. This is the kind of light mal line of wines from Valle d’Acate, offers ripe Tasca d’Almerita 2007 Cabernet and informal wine you can pair with pasta with fruit flavors of cherry liqueur and raspberry jam. 92 Sauvignon (Sicilia); $60. Tasca fresh tomato sauce and basil. Made with Nero This easy Sicilian red would make a good pairing d’Almerita makes what may be the best expres- d’Avola grapes, it offers aromas of cherry, rasp- companion to pork chops or grilled sausage with sion of Cabernet Sauvignon on the island of berry, almond and roasted pistachio nut. green peppers and onions. Imported by Polaner Sicily. This is a thick and penetrating wine that Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Selections. —M.L. delivers ripe thickness and determination without

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 loosing those focused aromas of spice and black- Sallier de la Tour 2008 Cabernet Feudo Principi di Butera 2003 berry that are characteristic of the grape variety. 86 Sauvignon (Sicilia); $10. A fresh and 88 Calat Merlot (Sicilia); $NA. From Cellar this wine for a few more years. Imported easy-going Cabernet Sauvignon that shows typi- the faraway 2003 vintage (characterized by by Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. cal characteristics of the grape variety such as scorching hot temperatures), this Sicilian Merlot black pepper and black currant. This is not an has done a pretty good job of maintaining its Feudi del Pisciotto 2007 Missoni overdone wine. In fact, it’s fresh, easy to drink cherry and spice nuances. There are ripe fruit 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sicilia); $21. and closes with a touch of piquant spice. Best aromas here but the wine still has life in it: Drink This Cabernet Sauvignon, fashionably attired in a Buy. —M.L. up. Imported by Zonin USA. —M.L. label made by designer , delivers rich and Sallier de la Tour 2007 Cabernet Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2008 mature aromas of blackberry, exotic spice, nut- Sauvignon (Sicilia); $NA. This edi- Merlot (Sicilia); $9. Here’s an easy but meg and clove. It has a chewy, raw feel in the 86 87 tion of Sallier de la Tour’s Cabernet offers pulp very well-priced Merlot from Sicily that would mouth (typical of warm climate wines) and deliv- and texture with aromas of black fruit, dried pair with a long list of pasta, chicken and home ers a blast of warm power on the close. Imported prune and some spicy or smoky tones at the end. cooked meat dishes. Aromas include cherry, spice by Vias Imports. —M.L. The wine exhibits a thick, soft texture with sweet and almond: The mouthfeel is simple, clean and berry flavors. —M.L. tight. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Feudo Principi di Butera 2003 San Best Buy. —M.L. Rocco Cabernet Sauvignon (Sicilia); 88 Feudo Principi di Butera 2007 $NA. The Feudo Principi di Butera estate 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sicilia); $NA. Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2007 releases this Cab five or more years after the har- Although this is from the relatively recent 2007 87 Merlot (Sicilia); $9. There’s a full, ripe vest, although a good argument could be made vintage, its aromas already seem dated. You’ll get quality to this Sicilian Merlot that recalls cherry that it should be released sooner. Tertiary aromas tones of Indian spice and old leather with dried or blackberry preserves with spice, cinnamon and of mineral and dried spice do appear and there’s tobacco, candied fruit and some herbal, green a touch of clove. The wine is very smooth on the not much fruit left (especially in the hot 2003 vin- notes as well. In the mouth, the wine does offer a palate with loads of cherry intensity on the close. tage). Nonetheless, the wine is elegantly aged: nice, linear feel with a dusty, mineral aftertaste. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Drink now. Imported by Zonin USA. —M.L. Imported by Zonin USA. —M.L. Buy. —M.L.

Principe di Corleone 2005 Pollara Feudo Principi di Butera 2008 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sicilia); $NA. MERLOT 87 Merlot (Sicilia); $17. Here’s a plump There’s a delicate, mineral-like note to this and ripe Merlot from Sicily with loads of cherry, Cabernet Sauvignon that gives the wine a neat, Baglio di Pianetto 2005 Salici Mer- blackberry and spice intensity. The wine is compact feel in the mouth. Aromas are well 91 lot (Sicilia); $27. This delicious Merlot smooth and soft on the finish and offers a bright, measured and elegant and you’ll see that the exhibits fine and elegant aromas of blackberry, cherry-driven fade. Pair this wine with marinated wine is much more expressive on the finish where cherry, graphite and lingering tones of smoke and lamb chops. Imported by Zonin USA. —M.L. it exhibits bursting berry flavors. Imported by spice. The mouthfeel is enormously generous and Maurici Imports. —M.L. intense and wine does a great job of keeping your Kris 2007 Heart Merlot (Sicilia); interest, sip after sip. Imported by Terlato Wines 87 $14. Franz Haas, one of Italy’s best pro- Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2007 International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. ducers from the north, has recently ventured into 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sicilia); $9. winemaking in the deep south. This shows great Planeta 2007 Merlot (Sicilia); $40. purity of fruit with aromas of raspberry, cherry, From the estate’s oldest vines this offers lively This full and generous Merlot (with a white almond and some lingering spice. berry nuances backed by measured spice, leather 91 small percentage of Petit Verdot in the blend for Imported by Winebow. —M.L. and smoke. There’s a good quality of berry fruit extra richness) delivers beautifully elegant aro- here and although the wine is simple and mas of cherry, white mineral, spice, leather and Cusumano 2008 Merlot (Sicilia); straightforward, it would match a long list of dried tobacco. It is smooth and rich with a very 86 $10. Cusumano delivers an unoaked pasta and easy meat dishes. Imported by Pres- fine quality of soft tannin. Imported by Palm Bay expression of Merlot from Sicily that won’t break tige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. the bank. In fact, the wine is clean and polished with bright aromas of cherry, raspberry and light Viticultori Associati Canicatti 2007 Feudi del Pisciotto 2007 Valentino touches of almond paste. Imported by Vin 87 Aquilae Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Merlot (Sicilia); $21. Here is a heavily Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. (Sicilia); $NA. Here’s a ripe and jammy wine oak-driven expression of Merlot from Sicily that that shows aromas of blackberry preserves and shows layers of cherry, blackberry, chocolate, Cusumano 2009 Merlot (Sicilia); candied plum that are typical of warm climate exotic spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco. The 86 $10. Here’s a youthful and fresh Merlot winemaking. Sweet, slightly astringent, tones pop wine is incredibly soft and yielding in the mouth from sunny Sicily that will satisfy your nose and up on the end and give this wine a determined, with soft fruit tones on the close. Imported by tastebuds alike. Aromas include cherry, light cin- powerful finish.—M.L. Vias Imports. —M.L. namon, leather, plum and blackberry. Pair this

WineMag.com | 6 9 BUYING I GUIDE wine with pasta with fennel sausage and grated The finale is marked by loads of succulent black with bright blueberry aromas, this is a dark and ricotta cheese. Imported by Vin Divino. Best currant and plum. Imported by Vinifera Imports. dense Syrah that boats a thick, succulent texture Buy. —M.L. —M.L. and loads of intensity. It tastes ripe and jammy in the mouth and leaves a powerful note of cherry Di Prima 2006 Gibilmoro Merlot Cottanera 2006 Sole di Sesta liqueur. —M.L. 86 (Sicilia); $20. Ripe and raw notes of 90 Syrah (Sicilia); $NA. Aromas span cherry preserves and mature blackberry are from black fruit, to spice to smoked ham and the Sallier de la Tour 2008 Syrah backed by powerful tones of spice, leather and wine is soft and velvety on the finish. This thick 85 (Sicilia); $10. Syrah is making a few suc- tobacco. This sees six months in barrique for full, and luscious Syrah offers a ripe and sunny wine cessful appearances in Sicily and this expression spice-driven finish. Imported by Frank & Cheech experience that would pair with succulent steak from Sallier de la Tour shows the potential of this Inc. —M.L. or pork roast. Imported by Banville & Jones French grape as a value wine. It is smooth, fruit- Wine Merchants.—M.L. driven and rich with medium consistency and Feudo Principi di Butera 2007 loads of spice and blueberry. Best Buy. —M.L. 86 Merlot (Sicilia); $NA. Ripe and Cusumano 2008 Syrah (Sicilia); intense aromas of cherry, ripe raspberry and 87 $10. This bright, well-priced Syrah almond are backed by lingering tones of clove, shows typical aromas of bright cherry, blueberry, OTHER RED WINES cinnamon and allspice. The wine is rich and long smoked meat and peppercorn. The mouthfeel is lasting and would make a great pairing pasta to equally attractive with plush ripeness and a soft, Firriato 2007 Ribeca (Sicilia); $26. pasta al forno. Imported by Zonin USA. —M.L. supple texture. Imported by Vin Divino. Best 92 This impressive expression of Buy. —M.L. (a native grape of southern Italy) will blow you Sallier de la Tour 2007 Merlot away thanks to the purity and intensity of its black 86 (Sicilia); $NA. A ripe and plumy expres- Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2007 fruit aromas. This is not an overblown or exagger- sion, this wine is rich and velvety with loads of 87 Syrah (Sicilia); $9. This ushers forth ated warm-climate wine. It maintains an elegant ripe cherry, blackberry and natural spice. The pretty aromas of blueberry, spice and white pep- and focused quality to the end. Imported by mouthfeel is soft, chewy and powerful.—M.L. percorn. There’s a sweet note of ripe fruit in the Soilair Selection. Cellar Selection. —M.L. mouth and at this low price, you won’t find a bet- Sallier de la Tour 2008 Merlot ter deal. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Baglio di Pianetto 2005 Carduni 85 (Sicilia); $10. Jammy aromas are in line Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. 91 (Sicilia); $53. This is a lovely and with warm climate winemaking. In the mouth, the sophisticated expression of Petit Verdot from wine delivers contrasting notes of sweet cherry Valle dell’Acate 2008 Case Ibidini Sicily with elegant graphite and mineral tones with a slightly bitter finish. Best Buy. —M.L. 87 Syrah (Sicilia); $16. This is an elegant that back plum, prune, spice and loads of toasted expression of Syrah that relies on a clean presen- nut. The wine is aged 16 month in oak, so those Lagaria 2008 Merlot (Sicilia); $10. tation of ripe fruit aromas. You’ll recognize min- spice and smoke tones are also evident on the 84 This well-priced Merlot has jammy aro- eral tones, black pepper and wild berry: The tasty finish. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- mas of cherry and blackberry folded within spice mouthfeel is plush and soft. Imported by Polaner tional. —M.L. and leather. The wine is raw, chewy and succu- Selections. —M.L. lent on the close. Imported by Empson (USA) Donnafugata 2006 Tancredi (Con- Ltd.—M.L. Feudo Principi di Butera 2007 91 tessa Entellina); $40. Tancredi is 86 Syrah (Sicilia); $NA. Here’s an intense always a beautiful wine and this year’s expression and darkly garnet Syrah with ripe aromas of (a 70-30 blend of Nero d’Avola and Cabernet SYRAH blackberry preserves, cherry cola, spice, clove Sauvignon) offers great aromatic intensity with and black pepper. The wine is soft and velvety soft tones of cherry, vanilla and exotic spice. It Planeta 2007 Syrah (Sicilia); $40. with a smoky aftertaste of cured meat. Imported closes with good structure and polished tannins. 91 One of Sicily’s best expressions of Syrah, by Zonin USA. —M.L. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. Planet’s rich and velvety wine offers elegant aro- mas of blackberry, cherry, smoked ham and MandraRossa 2007 Syrah (Sicilia); Planeta 2007 Burdese (Sicilia); crushed white pepper. The wine is smooth and 86 $10. Easy and genuine, this unoaked 91 $NA. This is an inky black blend of long on the finish with loads of chocolate inten- expression of Syrah carries forth fresh aromas of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc that shows sity. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. blueberry, black cherry, spice and black pepper. intense aromas of black fruit, tobacco, graphite It’s an unassuming red wine that offers the pulp mineral, tobacco and leather. The wine is full and Caruso & Minini 2006 Delia Niv- and consistency to pair with spaghetti and meat generous in the mouth with soft, velvety tannins. 90 olelli Riserva Syrah (Sicilia); $38. sauce. Imported by Palm Bay International. Best Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. This Riserva Syrah exhibits aged aromas of spice, Buy. —M.L. old leather and dried pipe tobacco. Tertiary aro- Zisola 2007 Doppiozeta (Sicilia); mas (the tones that develop as the wine ages) are Sallier de la Tour 2007 Syrah 91 $60. Opens with a rich, saturated already showing, so you’d better drink up now. 86 (Sicilia); $NA. Plump, ripe and filled appearance, impressive complexity and intense

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 aromas of ripe fruit and spice. The blend sees delivers ripe fruit aromas of blackberry, currants ness and leaves small berry nuances on the close. Nero d’Avola, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, and and some distant notes of smoked bacon or bre- Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. you can recognize the amazing fruit characteris- saola. The wine is luscious, succulent and slightly tics of each variety. The oak is still very present sweet on the close. Imported by Vinifera Planeta 2009 Rosé (Sicilia); $NA. on the nose, but the tannins are soft. Imported by Imports. —M.L. 85 Here’s a beautifully pinkish rosé made Palm Bay International. —M.L. from the Syrah grape in Sicily. You’ll encounter Duca di Salaparuta 2007 Calanìca aromas of cranberry, raspberry, peach and there’s Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 87 (Sicilia); $12. This 60-40 blend of Nero even a touch of pineapple at the back. The wine 90 2007 Adènzia (Sicilia); $19. Adènzia d’Avola and Merlot offers excellent value for this is crisp and smooth with a lively, bright personal- is a blend of Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon low price. Aromas include ripe cherry, blackberry ity. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. and Syrah from a dynamic new face in Sicilian and spice and the wine is smooth on the close winemaking. This deeply concentrated wine with a crisp touch of cleansing acidity at the end. offers sweet spice, vanilla and cinnamon notes Imported by Wine Cellars. Best Buy. —M.L. SICILY followed by ripe cherry and blackberry. Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.L. Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2008 WHITE WINES 87 Pinot Nero (Sicilia); $9. Here’s a Tasca d’Almerita 2007 Cygnus Red warm-climate Pinot Nero that shows all the char- GRILLO 90 Blend (Sicilia); $30. Cygnus is a very acteristics aromas of the variety—wild berries, distinct blend of Nero d’Avola and Cabernet blue flowers and cherry—in a more pronounced Duca di Salaparuta 2008 Kados Sauvignon with intense aromas of barbecue and immediate manner. It’s a bigger, more gener- 88 (Sicilia); $15. Kudos to Kados: Here’s a sauce, liquid smoke, smoked ham and cola-like ous interpretation of the grape with a purely lovely and surprisingly sophisticated white wine tones. The overall effect is thick, brooding and Sicilian signature. Imported by Prestige Wine from Sicily (made with the native Grillo grape dense and this is the kind of wine you’ll want to Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. but fermented in oak for extra spice and zest) pair with succulent steak drenched in A-1 sauce. offered at an equally surprising low price. Great Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Ecco Domani 2008 Pinot Nero with fish or spaghetti con vongole, the wine shows 86 (Sicilia); $15. A new generation of light pulses of yellow flower, peach, white mineral Cusumano 2008 Benuara (Sicilia); Sicilian brands has recently been experimenting and almond. Imported by Wine Cellars. Editors’ 89 $16. This is a particularly well-balanced with Pinot Noir in sunny Sicily. This expression, Choice. —M.L. edition of Benuara (a 70-30 blend of Nero that is aged in stainless steel, shows a pretty gar- d’Avola and Syrah) that boasts a very nice quality net color and delicate aromas of raspberry, rose Tasca d’Almerita 2008 Whitaker and integrity of fruit followed by fresh aromas of and violet. Imported by Gallo Of Sonoma Win- 88 Mozia (Sicilia); $NA. Fruit for this blackberry, cherry and a shading of exotic spice. ery. —M.L. pristine white wines comes from old, head-trained The low price will also win you over. Imported by vines on the tiny island of Mozia off the southern Vin Divino. Editors’ Choice.—M.L. Cielo e Terra 2008 Sangiovese coast of Sicily. Packed tight with archeological 84 (Sicilia); $NA. The Cielo Group has remains, the island is managed by the Whitaker Duca di Salaparuta 2005 Triskelè been making Italian wines for more than a cen- Foundation and this wine is part of a larger proj- 89 (Sicilia); $29. This is a very pleasant tury and this Sicilian expression of Sangiovese ect to revive ancient and winemaking and elegant blend of Nero d’Avola, Cabernet delivers easy aromas of ripe cherry, vanilla and traditions. It’s an excellent story and a wonderful Sauvignon and Merlot that does a great job of almond. It’s an informal, one-dimensional wine wine. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. presenting a united aromatic front. There are no that would pair with easy pasta dishes. —M.L. loose edges here and the wine is compact and Caruso & Minini 2008 Timpune smooth in the mouth. Very nice. Imported by Brugnano 2008 V90 (Sicilia); $18. 87 (Sicilia); $20. Timpune is a full-bodied Wine Cellars. —M.L. 82 A blast of dillweed, green olive and caper expression of Grillo with mature notes of peach, comes off the nose of this Sicilian blend of Nero apricot, melon and honey. There’s a nicely fra- Valle dell’Acate 2006 Rusciano d’Avola and Merlot. In the mouth, however, you grant note at the back and the wine would pair 88 (Sicilia); $30. Rusciano is a new wine will taste soft black fruit. Imported by Elite with cold pasta salad with cubed mozzarella and from Valle dell’Acate (a blend of native Sicilian Brands.—M.L. cherry tomatoes. Imported by Vinifera Imports. varieties and Syrah) that shows very ripe charac- —M.L. teristics of cherry, raspberry and spice. You can taste the mature black fruit here thanks to the ROSÉ WINES Feudi del Pisciotto 2007 Carolina wine’s chewy, succulent density. Imported by 87 Marengo (Sicilia); $21. The label of Polaner Selections. —M.L. Cantine Barbera 2009 La Bambina this wine is made by fashion designer Carolina 86 Rosé (Sicilia); $15. There’s a sweet Marengo and proceeds of sales of this wine go to Caruso & Minini 2007 Sachia element to the nose of this beautiful Sicilian rosé a Sicilian art restoration charity. This deeply oak- 87 (Sicilia); $20. Perricone is a little- that recalls raspberry and almond marzipan. The aged Grillo opens with a saturated golden color known native variety found in southern Italy that wine glides clean over the plate with easy fresh- and segues to spicy aromas of cinnamon and

WineMag.com | 7 1 BUYING I GUIDE vanilla cream backed by apricot and pear. The in the mouth where it imparts opulent density with crisp mineral elements. Imported by Palm oak element is very strong here. Imported by Vias and richness. This wine is an absolute pleasure to Bay International. —M.L. Imports. —M.L. drink. A beautiful Sicilian wine that would pair with shellfish, crab cakes or white meat. Calatrasi 2008 Terre di Ginestra Fattorie Azzolino 2008 D’Incanto Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. 87 BlanQ (Sicilia); $18. This Sicilian 86 (Sicilia); $NA. Fresh, tonic and redo- blend of white grapes (with a large component of lent of cut grass, citrus and stone fruit, here’s a Planeta 2008 Chardonnay (Sicilia); Sauvignon Blanc) shows pretty aromas of white great fish or tuna salad wine from sunny Sicily. 91 $40. Here’s a smooth and saturated flowers and exotic fruit. Mature melon and pear The grape used is Grillo and the wine offers Chard that beams strong with the Sicilian sunshine aromas give the wine a warm-climate identity as bright crispness on the close. —M.L. within. The bouquet opens with warm aromas of does its silky structure. Imported by Supreme yellow rose, stone fruit, almond and creamy Wines & Spirits. —M.L. Feudo Disisa 2008 Grillo (Sicilia); vanilla. In the mouth, it shows rich, full flavors that $15. 86 Aged only in stainless steel to would pair with shellfish or white meat. Imported Cusumano 2008 Angimbé (Sicilia); ensure freshness and crispness of aromas, this by Palm Bay International. —M.L. $14. This creamy and well-textured bright Grillo offers cheerful and informal aromas 87 blend of Insolia and Chardonnay offers immedi- of lemon rind, stone fruit, white mineral and Planeta 2008 Cometa (Sicilia); ate aromas of melon, stone fruit and a touch of almond. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. $40. Cometa is a fantastic expression of 91 citrus. The wine would pair with shellfish or Fiano from Sicily that reaches high marks in Viticultori Associati Canicatti 2008 terms of purity, intensity and persistency. The white meat. Imported by Vin Divino. —M.L. Aquilae (Sicilia); $NA. Here’s an easy wine is thick and smooth on the palate and 85 Duca di Salaparuta 2008 Colomba Grillo that opens with bright tones of peach, cit- imparts lasting flavors of stone fruit, honeydew rus and a touch of freshly cut green grass. The melon and almond blossom. Imported by Palm 87 Platino (Sicilia); $13. This elegantly mouthfeel is tonic, bright and fresh. Imported by Bay International. —M.L. packaged Insolia has a pretty, luminous appear- Sober LLC. —M.L. ance and pristine notes of stone fruit, citrus and Donnafugata 2007 Chiarandà mineral. This is your quintessential seafood wine: Badabing 2008 Grillo (Sicilia); 90 (Contessa Entellina); $40. This is an grilled sea bass, poached salmon or steamed mus- 84 $NA. Badabing is a nice, easy drinking absolutely beautiful white wine (made from a sels would all taste great in this wine’s company. white with loads of ripe melon and peach. bland of Ansonica and Chardonnay) that delivers Imported by Wine Cellars. —M.L. Imported by Grape Solutions. —M.L. rich and opulent tones of stone fruit, mon blos- som. The wine excels in the mouth thanks to its Tenuta Rapitalà 2008 Casalj richness and smooth creaminess. Imported by 87 (Sicilia); $NA. This light and refreshing MARSALA Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. blend of (a Sicilian native grape) and Chardonnay represents the best of warm-climate Florio NV Fine Sweet (Marsala); Baglio di Pianetto 2008 Ginolfo white winemaking. The aromas are pure and sim- 88 $13. The sweet interpretation of 88 Viognier (Sicilia); $26. A warm cli- ple, focused on wild flowers, dried herbs and cit- Marsala offers a more dynamic and intense bou- mate Viognier that shows fragrant aromas of wild rus. In the mouth, that Chardonnay creaminess quet with aromas of marron glacé, honey-covered flowers, honeysuckle, white violets and stone really kicks in. Imported by Frederick Wildman almonds, candied fruit and dried prune. Drink it fruit. It shows a thick, fat feel in the mouth with & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. alone after dinner or pair it with a very aged loads of yellow fruit flavors on the close. Pecorino cheese. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Imported by Terlato Wines International. —M.L. Calatrasi 2008 Terre di Ginestra Best Buy. —M.L. Viognier (Sicilia); $18. Viognier does Planeta 2008 Alastro (Sicilia); $21. 86 well in warm climates and this Sicilian expression Florio NA Fine Dry (Marsala); $13. Alastro is a food-friendly blend of Gre- 88 of the French grape shows pretty floral nuances Florio’s Dry Marsala shows etched aro- canico and Chardonnay. Grecanico adds fresh, 87 backed by white almond and orange blossom. mas of carmel, maple syrup, candied chestnut, floral aromas and the Chardonnay gives the wine Pair this wine with sea bass grilled in lemon butterscotch and dried prune. This historic forti- its creamy, smooth texture. A percentage of the fied wine opens with a saturated almond color wine is aged in oak and this process lends aromas leaves or fried squid. Imported by Supreme and offers an opulent, textured feel in the mouth. of spice and vanilla. Imported by Palm Bay Inter- Wines & Spirits. —M.L. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. national. —M.L. Di Prima 2008 Pepita (Sicilia); $15. Planeta 2008 La Segreta (Sicilia); 86 This is an easy blend of Inzolia and OTHER WHITE WINES 88 $16. Grecanico and Chardonnay (with Chardonnay (with a small component that is aged other grapes) are blended here to shape the ulti- in oak) with a fresh fruity and floral approach. Planeta 2009 Cometa (Sicilia); mate wine to pair with Mediterranean seafood The oak element is all but invisible save for a 92 $NA. Aromas of peach, honeysuckle and dishes. Think spaghetti con vongole or fried cala- touch of extra smoothness in terms of texture. almond are irresistible but the wine really excels mari. Buttery notes of peach and apricot mix well Imported by Frank & Cheech Inc. —M.L.

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 I Vigneri 2008 Vinujancu (Sicilia); Maurigi 2009 Coste all’Ombra and polished with vibrant aromas that recall a 86 $NA. From vintner Salvo Foti on Mount 84 (Sicilia); $22. This Sauvignon Blanc wild assortment of forest berries. It is smooth and Etna in Sicily, this powerful white wine delivers from Sicily offers strange aromas of menthol or supple in texture and there’s a very cleaning, aromas of honey, melon, butterscotch and apri- peppermint over a thin, compact body. It offers fresh note at the close that invites glass after cot. The alcoholic presence helps keep the palate nice freshness and a cooling, crisp close. glass. —M.L. clean after fatty or cheesy foods. —M.L. Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L. Bertoldi 2009 Terra Rossa (Bar- Maurigi 2008 Bacca Bianca Natale Verga 2008 Grecanico 86 dolino Classico); $NA. The impres- 86 (Sicilia); $16. From the Tenuta di 84 (Sicilia); $NA. Here’s a simple, clean sion n first impact is one of balance and harmony. Budonetto vineyard near Piazza Armerina in cen- Grecanico with sharp mineral lines framed by It’s a bright, ruby-colored Bardolino with fruit tral Sicily, this blend of Inzolia, Grecanico and aromas of white flowers, peach and citrus. It notes of blueberry and raspberry that work well Chardonnay offers citrusy aromas of lime and would wash down well with mixed Indian appe- with the wine’s natural crispness. It is also charac- lemon followed by a fresh and crisp feel in the tizers. Imported by Jandell Selections. —M.L. terized by a polished, drying finish that would mouth. Pair this easygoing white blend with pair with most Mediterranean dishes. —M.L. seafood and light pasta. Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L. OTHER ITALIAN Cantina di Custoza 2009 Val dei 86 Molini (Bardolino Classico); $NA. Valle dell’Acate 2008 Zagra RED WINES This is a friendly and inviting expression of Bar- 86 (Sicilia); $20. This blend of Grillo and dolino with pure fruit integrity and layers of wild Insolia (30%) offers fresh floral tones of lemon BARDOLINO berries and raspberries. It also shows a nice, and almond blossoms. There’s some pulpy, smooth consistency on the palate with a touch of peach-like notes in the mouth and the wine also Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2008 Le spice and more berry freshness on the close. Pair delivers a playful touch of acidity on the close. 88 Olle (Bardolino Classico Superi- with lasagna or other baked pasta. Imported by Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L. ore); $NA. This is a limited-edition Bardolino Vias Imports. —M.L. Superiore Classico that shows impressive inten- Duca di Salaparuta 2008 Calanica sity and a darker, richer consistency. The wine is Montezovo 2009 Bardolino; $NA. 85 (Sicilia); $12. Here’s a well-priced sweet and chewy with good succulence, loads of 86 This luminous, ruby-colored Bardolino blend of Insolia and Chardonnay from Sicily that cherry flavors, and long persistency on the pow- opens with sweet berry aromas that recall bright performs perfectly as a light appetizer or finger erful finish. Try this wine with roast chicken or raspberry, blueberry and wild strawberry. The food wine. There are zesty aromas here of citrus pork with fennel sauce. Imported by BelVino bouquet is bright, polished and refined and the and lime and a dusty mineral note picks up the LLC. —M.L. wine performs nicely in the mouth where it deliv- rear. It’s light, lean and easy in the mouth. ers an enduring sensation of freshness. Pair this Imported by Wine Cellars. —M.L. Villa Medici 2008 Bardolino Supe- wine with appetizers and fried finger foods. 88 riore; $NA. This is a fantastic expres- Imported by Eurobiz Inc. —M.L. MandraRossa 2008 Fiano (Sicilia); sion from the Lake Garda area. This dark and 85 $10. Easy going and well priced, this well-concentrated wine shows intense aromas of Corte Fornello 2009 Bardolino; light Fiano is an informal companion to summer- cherry, pomegranate, plum and fresh prune. 85 $NA. Made with a blend of grapes that time foods. Aromas here include peach, citrus There are also background shadings of exotic are traditionally cultivated in the Verona area, this and mineral and the wine is sharp and clean on spice and the wine is sweet, rich and long lasting. is an easy-drinking red that would pair with the close. Imported by Palm Bay International. Villa Medici presents a bold, modern interpreta- home-cooked pasta meals or light meat dinners. Best Buy. —M.L. tion of a traditional wine. —M.L. Aromas include bright berry tones and the wine is lively and fresh on the finish. —M.L. Fattorie Azzolino 2008 Tranoi Cantina Caorsa 2007 Bardolino 84 (Sicilia); $NA. This is a very light and 87 Classico Superiore; $NA. This is a Frezza 2008 Colle San Lorenzo informal Sicilian blend of Sauvignon Blanc and ripe and generous expression of Bardolino Supe- 85 (Bardolino); $NA. Bright berry aro- Catarratto (a native grape of the island) that riore (made from a traditional blend of Veronese mas of forest fruit, ripe raspberry, cherry and cas- would pair with tuna or chicken salad. The oper- grapes) that shows mature aromas of black sis open the nose of this ruby-colored Bardolino. ative word, however, is light. —M.L. cherry, blueberry and raspberry. The wine shows Fruit for this easy-going wine is sourced from an very good density and consistency and it leaves a amphitheater of vines on the San Lorenzo hills Fazio 2008 Capo Soprano (Sicilia); lasting impression of ripe berry flavors that would near Lake Garda. —M.L. 84 $NA. A Sicilian blend of Catarratto and stand up beautifully to aged cheese. —M.L. Chardonnay, Capo Soprano lends the green fruit Valetti 2009 Bardolino Classico; aromas of the first variety, with the peachy Cantina del Castelnuovo del 85 $NA. Designed to be consumed slightly creaminess of the second. It’s an easy-going 87 Garda 2009 Ca’ Vegar (Bardolino chilled, this vibrant, ruby-colored Bardolino Clas- expression with a compact, short feel in the Classico); $NA. This expression of Bardolino sico offers loads of fruit intensity with almond mouth. Imported by Vinarium Inc. —M.L. really hits all the right marks. The wine is intense nuances and slight shadings of exotic spice that

WineMag.com | 7 3 BUYING I GUIDE fill in the background. It’s a light and buoyant black fruit. The aromas are simple and appear black cherry, exotic spice, green peppercorn, wine with a lean, compact consistency. —M.L. slightly aged. There’s also a touch of alcoholic leather and moist pipe tobacco. The wine is soft, heat at the very end. —M.L. smooth and extremely velvety on the close. Cantina del Castelnuovo del Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. 84 Garda 2008 Vintage (Bardolino); $NA. Made from a traditional blend Corvina, LAZIO Casale del Giglio 2008 Shiraz Rondinella, Molinara, Sangiovese and Garganega 87 (Lazio); $22. Casale del Giglio is mak- grapes, this easy Bardolino is marked by sharp Casale del Giglio 2007 Madreselva ing a very good reputation for itself thanks in part aromas of small forest berries, citrus and bram- 91 (Lazio); $NA. This Bordeaux blend to this hearty Shiraz. The wine delivers typical ble. It offers bright acidity, smooth texture and from Lazio, in central Italy, offers gorgeous inten- aromas of crushed white pepper, blackberry and slightly bitter, almond notes on the finale. —M.L. sity and ripe aromas of dark spice, black mineral, clove and it offers roasted espresso bean and clove, blackberry, cherry cola, leather and chocolate covered cherry on the close. Imported Zeni 2009 Vigne Alte (Bardolino espresso bean. It shows a modern, oak-aged side by Soilair Selection. —M.L. 84 Classico); $NA. Vigne Alte Bardolino and loads of ripe fruit flavors on the long, spicy boats a very immediate delivery of aromas that close. Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2007 come forth as wild berry, white cherry and red Regillo (Castelli Romani); $14. apple. This is a simple and genuine wine with Casale del Giglio 2006 Madreselva 87 From the Castelli Romani district just outside the good intensity and purity. It leaves the palate 90 (Lazio); $60. Madreselvsa is a blend of clean and refreshed thanks to the natural fresh- Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon confines of Rome, comes this dark and inky blend ness it imparts on the close. Imported by DS with beautiful focus and intensity. Its aromas of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- Trading Co. —M.L. include blackberry, currant, spice and dark min- lot with potent aromas of spice, dark fruit, black- eral and the mouthfeel is velvety and smooth. berry and leather. There’s a hint of red apple as Ca’ dei Rotti 2009 Bardolino; $NA. There’s a fine quality of tannin here and the fla- well and the aromatic delivery is sharp and imme- 83 Here is a cheerful Bardolino from the vors lasts long on the finish. Imported by Soilair diate. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. Garda area that exhibits slight effervescence and Selection. —M.L. a bright, informal disposition. That delicate bub- Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2007 Saula bling plus the wine’s natural crispness make it a Casale del Giglio 2007 Mater 87 (Castelli Romani); $13. The region of good candidate for pasta dishes with either 90 Matuta (Lazio); $60. One of the best Lazio in central Italy is not well-known for its cheese or butter. In the mouth, the wine is sim- wines to emerge from Lazio (the region of the wines, but this well-priced 50-50 blend of Mon- ple, clean and polished. —M.L. Italian capital), this innovative blend of Syrah and tepulciano and Merlot shows its enological poten- Petit Verdot (15%) offers penetrating aromas of tial. This is a rich and penetrating wine with loads leather, espresso bean, dark chocolate and black of black fruit and spice. Imported by Saranty OLTREPÒ PAVESE cherry. It would pair with Rome’s favorite pasta Imports. —M.L. dishes including spaghetti carbonara. Imported Sant’Andrea 2005 Oltrepò Pavese; by Soilair Selection. —M.L. 87 $NA. Here’s an older expression of Bar- MONTEPULCIANO bera from the Oltrepò Pavese region near Milan Casale del Giglio 2008 Petite Ver- that shows shy complexity and sweet spice and 88 dot (Lazio); $24. Smokey tones of Binomio 2006 Montepulciano pepper like notes. There is a prune and plum charcoal and dark granite or slate rise from the 89 d’; $50. This is a mammoth fruit component here that suggest the wine has nose of this Lazio-based Petit Verdot. Dusty min- wine with an inky, impenetrable appearance and held up nicely over the years (but probably won’t eral notes are followed by dark, ripe fruit and the intense aromas of dark spice, crushed black pep- last much longer). Drink now. —M.L. wine is long-lasting and penetrating on the close. per, clove and every sort of mature black fruit Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. Castel San Giorgio 2005 Becco you can imagine. The tannins are firm and solid Giallo Riserva (Oltrepò Pavese); Umberto Cesari 2008 Moma and the wine packs a powerful punch of concen- 86 tration and alcoholic power. Imported by Dalla $NA. Here’s a simple Barbera from northern 88 (Rubicone); $NA. Moma is a San- Italy that offers mature tones of dried currants, giovese-based wine with elements of Cabernet Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. plums and prunes. From the 2005 vintage, the Sauvignon and Merlot that lend structure and Riserva expression also shows tertiary aromas of softness respectively. The nose boasts ripe fruit La Canosa 2007 Musè (Marche); spice and smoke and there’s a blast of fresh acid- and loads of oak driven spice, vanilla, clove and 87 $NA. This is an inky black and impene- ity and peppercorn on the close. —M.L. cinnamon. Imported by Bedford International. trable expression of Montepulciano from central —M.L. Italy with dark spice aromas lavished over Sant’Andrea 2008 Oltrepò Pavese; Maraschino cherry, blackberry and prune. Oak 86 $NA. Sant’Andrea is a small winery in Casale del Giglio 2008 Merlot notes of spice, vanilla and black pepper fill in the Northern Italy and its recent release of Barbera 87 (Lazio); $20. A ripe and jammy expres- background. The wine is firmly tannic on the offers sweet aromas of prunes, exotic spice and sion of Merlot form central Italy with aromas of close. —M.L.

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Carlo Mario Margiotta 2005 Pen- Tenuta Alzatura 2006 Uno di Nove 85 tima (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo); 89 (Sagrantino di Montefalco); $NA. OTHER RED WINES $15. This hearty Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from This is a dark and spicy expression of Sagrantino a relatively hot vintage (2005) offers loads of ripe, from Umbria that showcases deep aromas of Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2006 jammy fruit, plum and prune backed by exotic Amaranto 72 Riserva (Veneto); clove, Christmas spice and nutmeg. The fruit 91 spice and black peppercorn. The wine shows $NA. Here’s an inky dark and impenetrable tones here are on the ripe, jammy side and the solid, dark tannins on the close. Imported by blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot wine hits the palate with determined, firm tan- R&R Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. and Marzemino. This is a seriously dense and nins. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. rich expression with loads of mature fruit and spice that make for a layered and complex whole. Poggio Bertaio 2006 Stucchio UMBRIA The wine also shows tight, firm tannins. (Umbria); $20. This dark and sophisti- 88 Imported by Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —M.L. Lungarotti 2005 Rubesco Riserva cated expression of Sangiovese from central Italy Vigna Monticchio (Torgiano); $57. 92 shows deep aromas of ripe fruit, black currant, Umberto Cesari 2007 Riserva Chiara Lungarotti says that this vintage of her spice, tobacco and moist earth. It boasts a (Sangiovese di Romagna); $NA. vineyard-designate Riserva represents a mile- 88 smooth, velvety feel that would stand up nicely to Packaged in a big, heavy bottle, this Riserva San- stone for her family run estate. Indeed, this is a lasagna or meatloaf. Imported by Vias Imports. giovese shows elegant tones of wild berry, blue rich and elegant red wine that shows signature flowers, moist earth and spice. This is a very tra- notes of wild berry and spice that reflect her —M.L. beloved territory: Umbria. Imported by Vin ditional take on Italy’s favorite indigenous variety Divino. —M.L. Bigi 2009 Vipra Rossa (Umbria); with a soft, silky close. Imported by Bedford 87 $13. Packaged in a handsome bottle International. —M.L. Lungarotti 2006 Sagrantino di with an embossed viper on the front, this blend of Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2007 Chi- 91 Montefalco; $48. Sagrantino is a pow- Merlot, Sangiovese (with a small percentage of eto (Veneto); $NA. This inky black erful and densely tannic wine that is gaining pop- Montepulciano for extra power and intensity) 87 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot delivers ularity in Italy and abroad. Lungarotti works hard offers easy sensations of ripe fruit and exotic to tame this variety through careful oak aging and a thick, impenetrable appearance with jammy spice. The low price makes it even more attrac- low yields in the vineyard. The beautiful results notes of blackberry preserves and maraschino tive. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. boast dark fruit and exotic spice highlights. cherry. It presents chewy, succulent fruit but is Imported by Vin Divino. —M.L. not overdone or too heavy on the close. Imported Lungarotti 2007 Rubesco (Tor- by Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —M.L. Lungarotti 2004 San Giorgio 87 giano); $15. This is a mostly San- 91 (Umbria); $62. San Giorgio is an his- giovese-based wine that shows special territorial Desmonta 2006 Riserva Merlot toric wine that represents an international variety, characteristics of Umbria in central Italy. The 87 (Arcole); $NA. Here is a very distinc- Cabernet Sauvignon, married to a local one: San- fruit is lively, bright and fresh tones of wild tive expression of Merlot with ripe aromas of giovese. The results are soft and generous and berries make this a versatile and food-friendly black cherry and prune, backed by leather, although you can recognize characteristics of choice. Imported by Vin Divino. —M.L. tobacco, moist earth and smoked ham or cured both, the fruit is perfectly ripe and balanced. meat. The wine delivers power and determina- Imported by Vin Divino. —M.L. Benincasa 2006 Montefalco tion on the finish with soft, smooth tannins and a Rosso; $14. vibrant cherry aftertaste. —M.L. Cantina Tudernum 2006 Sagran- 86 Montefalco Rosso is a tino di Montefalco; $NA. blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot from 89 Here is a La Canosa 2007 Nullius (Marche); rich, dense and nicely saturated Sagrantino with Umbria in central Italy with aromas of cherry, $NA. Nullius is a modern expression of lively aromas of sweet spice, cinnamon, nutmeg wild berry, spice and cola. The wine is light and 87 Sangiovese with oak-driven aromas of vanilla, cin- and dark berry or plum. You’ll taste the wine’s easy-going and would make a good partner to namon, exotic spice and mesquite. There is thick tannins and enjoy its spicy aftertaste. Drink pizza or simple pasta dishes. Imported by Terra cherry and ripe blackberry fruit here, but the after 2013. —M.L. Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. wine is mostly focused on spice nuances. —M.L. Lungarotti 2007 Montefalco Benincasa 2007 Vincastro Rosso; $28. Montefalco Rosso is a Umberto Cesari 2009 Ca’ Grande 89 84 (Umbria); $8. This easy 80-20 blend of blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot that 86 (Sangiovese di Romagna); $NA. Sangiovese and Merlot opens with a dark garnet shows impressive balance and integration. The Ca’ Grande is a simple, crisp and light expression wine’s soft cherry and berry nuances come from hue and mature aromas of jammy fruit and spice. of Sangiovese from central Italy that offers clean the Sangiovese and Merlot components and the The wine shows power and grit and would pair pulses of cherry, cassis and blue flower. Pair this Sagrantino adds structure and persistency. with a cheesy pasta dish. Imported by Terra no-fuss wine with pasta and ragù or cheesy pizza. Imported by Vin Divino. —M.L. Verus Trading Co. LP. Best Buy. —M.L. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 7 5 BUYING I GUIDE

Collis Veneto Wine Group 2008 Carlo Mario Margiotta 2007 Cre- natural acidity will keep your palate refreshed. 85 Arcole; $NA. Ripe, almost jammy aro- 84 tara (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Imported by Bonhomie Wine Imports. —M.L. mas of plum, prune and candied fruit open the Cerasuolo); $10. This is a dark ruby rosé wine nose of this blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi- with a subdued nose that is accented by raspberry Monte Tondo 2007 Foscarin Slavi- gnon (the Cabernet is partially air-dried to create and cassis aromas. The wine shows sharp acidity 88 nus (Soave Classico Superiore); more aromatic intensity). You’ll also notice some and some almond like bitterness on the close. $30. Here’s a mature and sophisticated style of green, herbal notes that are characteristic of Imported by R&R Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. Soave with ripe aromas of apricot, peach, honey Cabernet and the wine is round, smooth and and butterscotch. The wine is thick and creamy slightly sweet on the close. —M.L. Le Muraglie 2009 Biro (Bardolino in the mouth with loads of apricot like flavors on 84 Chiaretto); $NA. With ancient roots the finish. Imported by Clyde Thomas. —M.L. that date back to 1624, this family-run winery ROSÉ WINES presents an easy-drinking Chiaretto with vibrant Bertani 2009 Sereole (Soave); $15. aromas of raspberry, white cherry and violets. 87 Sereole Soave boasts the intensity and Tenute Rubino 2009 Saturnino The mouthfeel is light and compact and although pristine qualities of a very well-made wine. Its 87 Rosato (Salento); $NA. The Salento, the wine is relatively thin and informal, it does a appearance is crisp and crystalline and the aro- or the tip of the “heel” of the boot of Italy, is an great job keeping the palate clean. —M.L. mas of citrus, peach and dried sage are vivid. excellent area for rosé. Arguably it is the best. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. This expression made from native Valetti 2009 Bardolino Chiaretto; Ca’ Rugate 2008 Monte Fiorentine grapes offers a bright ruby color and sweet aro- 84 $NA. Valetti’s beautifully luminous rosé mas of raspberry, almond and wild cherry. (Soave Classico); $17. A sophisti- opens with subdued but pristine aromas of rasp- 87 Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. cated Soave Classico that evokes a studied, more berry, white cherry and pink grapefruit. Bitter contemplated style. It opens with a bright golden almond and slight shadings of dried herb appear Cantele 2009 Negroamaro Rosato color and offers aromas of mature melon, peach on the finish and the wine boasts a very clean, (Salento); $NA. This Negroamaro- and apricot. There’s also a hint of white almond 86 upfront feel in the mouth. —M.L. based rosé from the south of Italy boasts a bright paste and the wine is crisp and enduring on the pink color with ruby hues and aromas of white close. Imported by VOS Selections. —M.L. Ca’ dei Rotti 2009 Bardolino cherry, raspberry, cranberry and pink rose. In Chiaretto; $NA. A bright pink color fact, pretty floral aromas do a nice job of filling in 83 Ca’ Rugate 2008 Monte Alto characterizes this fragrant Bardolino Chiaretto. the back. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. (Soave Classico); $19. This opulent The wine boasts simple, clean lines with aromas 87 Soave Classico is made from native Garganega of raspberry, pomegranate, white cherry and dry- Pala 2009 Chiaro di Stelle (Isola grapes that see a bit of oak aging to acquire subtle ing mineral. It’s thin and fresh on the close and dei Nuraghi); $NA. Chiaro di Stelle tones of roasted almond and smoky mineral. Cool 86 would make a great pairing partner to ravioli is a bright rosé with deep ruby and garnet high- acidity caps the close and promises to match lights. From an aromatic point of view, the wine filled with cream and salmon sauce. —M.L. spicy chicken curry. Imported by VOS Selections. focuses on wild berries and dried herbs such as —M.L. sage, oregano and basil. In the mouth, it shows density and silkiness. Imported by Banville & OTHER ITALIAN Ca’ Rugate 2007 Monte Alto Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. 87 (Soave Classico); $19. There is an WHITE WINES austere, serious nature to this Soave Classico that Pala 2009 Silenzi (Isola dei SOAVE is articulated with aromas of drying mineral, 85 Nuraghi); $NA. Delicate and femi- almond, mature peach and apricot. The wine nine, this rosé from Sardinia delivers clean aro- shows weight and persistency on the palate and mas of raspberry, wild strawberry, white cherry Filippi 2006 Vigne della Brà could pair with fried fish or chicken. Imported and a touch of lemon zest. There’s a mineral note 88 (Soave); $21. Unlike any other Soave by VOS Selections. —M.L. at the back and the wine also boasts some of the you will taste, this wine rests on the lees for 20 herbal aromas that are so often associated with months to shape aromatic intensity and create Cambrago 2008 I Cérceni (Soave Mediterranean flavors. Imported by Banville & smoothness in the mouth. You will recognize aro- 87 Classico); $NA. This Soave Classico Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. mas of peach cobbler and baked bread; there’s a stands apart in the crowd thanks to its natural playful touch of grapefruit at the end. Imported heft and rich consistency. You can feel the glyc- Tre Colline 2009 Bardolino by Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. erin on the tongue; the wine leaves a fresh 85 Chiaretto; $NA. This is a very interest- impression of peach, melon and pear. Imported ing rosé Chiaretto with a cheerful array of aromas Le Battistelle 2007 Battistelle by Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —M.L. that span from rose petal, to dried herbs to white 88 (Soave Classico); $26. Partly aged in mineral. The wine boasts a luminous, pink color oak, this bright Soave Classico delivers aromas of Cantina di Soave 2008 Rocca and it washes smooth over the palate with zippy peach, apricot, yellow fruit and a touch of almond 87 Sveva Castelcerino (Soave Clas- freshness and a compact consistency. —M.L. paste. Pair with scallops or grilled shrimp. The sico Superiore); $NA. Castelcerino opens with

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 aromas of dried hay, stone fruit, citrus and min- Roccolo Grassi 2007 Vigneto La food-friendly white wine that would work with eral. It’s an easy-drinking and crisp white wine 87 Broia (Soave); $20. Roccolo Grassi appetizers and fried calamari. Imported by that would pair with vegetable risotto (asparagus, produces beautiful Amarone and applies a quality Underdog Wine Merchants. —M.L. artichoke or radicchio) topped with parmigiano winemaking philosophy to all the estate wines. cream. Imported by MW Imports. —M.L. This oak-fermented Soave is simple, but sincere Bertani 2009 Soave Classico; $13. with pristine mineral, peach and citrus aromas. 86 This is a perfect wine to buy by the case Cecilia Beretta 2009 Brognoligo Imported by Chambers & Chambers. —M.L. to keep at hand for informal occasions with family 87 (Soave Classico); $NA. Here’s an and friends. It delivers clean aromas of citrus, exemplary Soave Classico with a vibrant, lumi- Sandro de Bruno 2007 Cam- peach and pear and keeps the tongue refreshed nous appearance and inviting aromas of white 87 pogrande (Soave Superiore); $23. with its bright crispness. Imported by Palm Bay flower, dried sage, honey, peach and Golden A more evolved and sophisticated expression of International. —M.L. Delicious apple. It washes clean over the tongue Soave with creamy aromas of ripe melon and thanks to its natural consistency and fresh acidity. peach backed by mineral tones and toasted Ca’ Rugate 2009 San Michele Imported by Casa Bruno. —M.L. almond. Pair this wine with asparagus risotto with 86 (Soave Classico); $13. This is packed parmigiano cream. Imported by Supreme Wines tight with mineral and herbal aromas that come Coffele 2009 Ca’ Visco (Soave & Spirits. —M.L. on the heels of stone fruit and citrus. This is a 87 Classico); $18. A sweet-smelling Soave fresh and fragrant appetizer wine that keeps your with simple aromas of peach, pear and honey Sartori 2009 Sella (Soave Clas- palate polished and refreshed. Imported by Vos presented in a very direct and immediate man- 87 sico); $NA. Truly delicious, with bright Selections. —M.L. ner. It’s thick and compact on the finish with mineral tones that are wrapped tight around aro- loads of pineapple-like flavors. Imported by mas of citrus, peach and Golden Delicious apple. Ca’ Rugate 2008 San Michele Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L. There’s soft creaminess in the mouth and loads of 86 (Soave Classico); $13. A bright, bright intensity that makes it easy to love and easy immediate delivery of fresh tones of cut grass, Corte Moschina 2008 I Tarai to drink. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. white flowers and citrus emerge from the nose of 87 (Soave); $NA. This rare late-harvest this cheerful Soave Classico. The wine promises Soave shows elegant and refined aromas of Suavia 2006 Le Rive (Soave Clas- food-friendliness on all levels thanks to the sim- honey, dried apricot, almond and pineapple 87 sico); $NA. Made with Garganega plicity of its style and its crisp acidity. Imported backed by drying mineral touches. The texture grapes, this is a more saturated expression of by VOS Selections. —M.L. shows delicious thickness, succulence and the Soave Classico with a deeper golden color and wine glides smoothly over the palate, driven by its bright aromas of melon, peach, apricot and dried Cantina del Castello 2008 Pressoni silky glycerin and creamy extraction. —M.L. herbs. The wine shows very good richness and 86 (Soave Classico); $NA. Very attrac- consistency on the finish. Imported by Vias tive freshness emerges here, blended within Monte Tondo 2007 Casette Fos- Imports. —M.L. pretty folds of floral and peachy aromas. The 87 carin (Soave Classico); $20. This mouthfeel is simple and genuine with drying Soave Classico from the 2007 vintage opens with Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2008 Monte mineral tones and zesty crispness. —M.L. a saturated, golden color and mature notes of 87 Ceriani (Soave); $11. You’ll enjoy this apricot, honey and melon. There’s a distinctive crisp Soave tremendously thanks to its crystalline Cantina di Soave 2008 Rocca mineral note at the back that puts an elegant spin aromas of citrus, peach and pear and its fresh, 86 Sveva (Soave Classico); $15. This is on those ripe fruit flavors. Imported by Clyde cleansing mouthfeel. This is one of those quintes- a dry, crisp and refreshing white wine with pol- Thomas. —M.L. sential Italian whites that will pair with informal ished mineral aromas backed by peach, citrus and Mediterranean cuisine. Imported by Dalla Terra white flower. It has good weight and texture for Monte Tondo 2008 Soave Clas- Winery Direct. —M.L. an easy Soave and would work with fish, fried 87 sico; $17. Beautifully rich and intense, calamari or mussels in garlic and tomato sauce. with ripe aromas of peach, apricot, grapefruit and Tommasi 2009 Le Volpare (Soave Imported by MW Imports. —M.L. melon. The wine is smooth and filling on the 87 Classico); $14. There’s a grassy, herbal palate and the fresh acidity would match steamed characteristic here that rides on the heels of Franchetto 2009 La Capelina asparagus with melted butter. Imported by Clyde peach, citrus and white mineral. Le Volpare is a 86 (Soave); $NA. This distinctive expres- Thomas. —M.L. steady, food-friendly wine that offers excellent sion of Soave puts emphasis on brawn and power pairing attributes for rice salad, chicken, Thai with aromas of mature fruit, apricot and can- Prà 2008 Monte Grande (Soave food and grilled vegetables. Imported by Rolar. taloupe. The aromatic intensity is standout and 87 Classico); $25. A sophisticated Soave —M.L. the wine follows through onto the palate with Classico with aromas of almond and honey that fresh intensity and playful touches of piquant appear on the heels of stone fruit and Golden Albino Armani 2007 Incontro spice. —M.L. Delicious apple. You’ll like the consistency and 86 (Soave); $20. Incontro (encounter in freshness of this wine and its cleansing mineral Italian) is a ripe, fruit-forward Soave with plenty Latium di Morini 2009 Campo le tones. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. of pretty peach and floral tones. This is a crisp, 86 Calle (Soave); $20. This is a fun and

WineMag.com | 7 7 BUYING I GUIDE informal Soave with vibrant aromas of citrus, cut green grass and fine talc powder. It tastes Ferraretto 2008 Soave; $NA. Here’s peach, white flower and mineral. It tastes fresh fresh and zippy and has the natural crispness to 85 an easy-going and fresh Soave with dis- and crisp and would pair with fried finger foods. pair with fried zucchini flowers stuffed with moz- tinctive notes of almond paste and sweet marzi- Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L. zarella and anchovies. Imported by Rolar. —M.L. pan backed by drying mineral and stone fruit. The aromas are truly unique and beg a pairing Le Battistelle 2008 Montesei Agostino Vicentini 2009 Vigneto with almond encrusted fish or Asian dishes with 86 (Soave Classico); $15. Fresh and cit- 85 Terre Lunghe (Soave); $NA. Made coconut milk. —M.L. rusy, with background aromas of peach, pear, from a blend of native grapes Garganega and sage and mineral notes. The wine is clean and , this luminous Soave opens with bright Filippi 2008 Castelcerino (Soave); $15. easy on the palate and would pair with chilled aromas of lemon zest, peach and Golden Deli- 85 Made with organically farmed fruit, pasta salad. Imported by Bonhomie Wine this bright Soave shows light shadings of peach, cious apple. It takes on a very lively personality in Imports. —M.L. pear, sage, white mineral and a touch of butter- the mouth thanks to its bright freshness and scotch. The wine is creamy and smooth in the those tangy lemony tones. —M.L. Monte Tondo 2008 Corte del Sole mouth and would pair with prosciutto sliced thin (Soave); $10. Fresh crispness is what over ripe cantaloupe. Imported by Omniwines 86 Cambrago 2009 Vigne Maiores you notice first in this luminous and bright Soave. Distribution. —M.L. (Soave); $NA. Pretty floral nuances of Made from Garganega grapes, the wine boasts 85 jasmine, honeysuckle and acacia are backed by aromas of lemon zest, white mineral and pear. Prà 2009 Soave Classico; $15. Prà’s Imported by Clyde Thomas. Best Buy. —M.L. subtle hints of dried sage and basil. This lumi- 85 base Soave Classico is a crisp and clean nous Soave has all its aromatic elements perfectly white with measured tones of citrus and stone Montresor 2008 Capitel Alto in line. The wine is smooth and crisp, with fruit. It’s a snappy, zesty wine that would pair well 86 (Soave Classico); $14. Opens with a medium heft. Imported by Fruit of the Vines, with appetizers and finger foods. Imported by bright golden color and aromas of apricot, peach, Inc. —M.L. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. melon and a touch of butterscotch. It offers a compact, fresh feel in the mouth and leaves lin- Cantina del Castello 2008 Castello Sandro de Bruno 2007 Colli gering flavors of stone fruit on the close. 85 (Soave Classico); $NA. Castello 85 Scaligeri (Soave); $19. This is a very Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L. Soave Classico offers easy aromas of jasmine, interesting and ultimately very likeable Soave honeysuckle and a saccharine like note of cotton with ripe aromas of banana, pineapple and loads Prà 2008 Staforte (Soave Classico); candy or lemon soda. It’s linear and compact in of almond marzipan. The wine is light and short 86 $22. This crisp and light Soave Classico the mouth with a drying, mineral finish. —M.L. on the palate but those aromatic aftertastes stay cleans the palate thanks to its well-integrated etched in your memory. Imported by Supreme acidity and streamlined feel. It’s a fresh and easy- Cantina di Monteforte 2009 Terre Wines & Spirits. —M.L. going alternative to Pinot Grigio that would pair 85 di Monteforte (Soave Classico); just as successfully with chicken salad or Chinese $NA. Pleasing aromas of stone fruit, grapefruit Le Crosare 2008 Montecletha take-out. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. and white mineral make a very nice first impres- 84 (Soave Classico); $NA. Simple, clean sion: This Soave Classico would pair perfectly and linear, this Soave Classico delivers aromas of Santi 2008 Vigneti di Monteforte with exotic dishes borrowing from Chinese or honey, peach, dried herbs and mineral in a direct (Soave Classico); $NA. 86 Fresh and Thai culinary tradition. It’s thin and informal in and sincere manner. There’s sharp crispness here easy going, this informal Soave Classico offers an that helps keep the palate refreshed and the wine the mouth, but the natural acidity keeps your array of aromas that include citrus, mineral and can be happily served at picnics. —M.L. palate refreshed. —M.L. dried herbs. Pair this wine with Chinese chicken salad or vegetable spring rolls. Imported by Fred- Monte del Frá 2007 Soave Clas- Cantina di Monteforte 2009 Vic- erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. sico; $15. This is a mature expression of ario (Soave Classico); $NA. Vicario 84 85 Garganega that shows elements of overripe is a light and luminous Soave Classico with loads Tessari 2008 Grisela (Soave Clas- melon and peach. Polished mineral notes appear of easy fruit and mineral character. This is exactly 86 sico); $18. This Soave Classico shows a in the mouth and the wine is easy and thin over- luminous golden color and subdued aromas of the type of wine you’ll want to pair with tuna all. Imported by Victoire Imports. —M.L. dried herbs and white mineral or talc powder. carpaccio, seafood salad or light risotto. The wine More fruit tones appear in the mouth, especially is smooth, refreshing and tonic. —M.L. Villa Erbice 2007 Soave Superiore; peach and citrus, and the wine is bright and pol- 84 $13. This is a thin, compact white wine ished on the close. Imported by Enotec Imports, Coffele 2009 Soave Classico; $13. that shows simple aromas of citrus, mineral and Inc. —M.L. 85 Easygoing and clean, this pretty wine pear. Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. does a good job of keeping the palate refreshed. Tommasi 2008 Le Volpare (Soave It shows aromas of stone fruit and dried herbs Cantina del Castello 2007 Carniga 86 Classico); $13. This is a bright Soave and would pair with salads or appetizers. 83 (Soave Classico); $NA. There are Classico that offers aromas of lemon zest, freshly Imported by Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L. slightly dulled or aged characteristics of apricot,

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 melon and butterscotch. It livens up in the mouth wine with pasta or chicken salad. Imported by Cantina di Custoza 2008 Custodia thanks to its stone fruit flavors although the finish Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 86 Le Noci (Custoza Superiore); $NA. tastes heavy and thick. —M.L. You’ll love the zesty freshness and natural crisp- S. Cristina 2009 Massoni White ness of this bright Custoza Superiore. It shows Zeni 2008 Marogne (Soave Clas- 86 Blend (Lugana); $NA. A pretty wine pretty aromas of yellow rose, honey, melon and 83 sico); $NA. An evolved Soave Classico showing fruit, floral and mineral characteristics loads of ripe peach. The mouthfeel is smooth and with a golden appearance and mature aromas of that make for enticing harmony and balance. creamy but the wine never feels heavy or fat. melon, peach, apricot and yellow rose. In the There’s a touch of peachy sweetness on the close Suited for informal occasions. Imported by Vias mouth the wine is soft and rich. You could pair and the wine is enduring and fresh on the finish. Imports. —M.L. this wine with more structured foods such as Imported by Winebow. —M.L. chicken curry or baked fresh water fish with but- Gorgo 2009 Podere San Michelin ter. Imported by DS Trading Co. —M.L. Santi 2009 Melibéo (Lugana); 86 (Custoza); $NA. Cheerful and ripe 86 $NA. Melibéo characterizes the natural with buoyant personality, this pretty white makes freshness and easy informality of the Lugana an incredibly clean and polished first impression. LUGANA region. The wine invites and surprises the palate There’s bright crispness with lemon zest, mineral with its tonic aromas of peach, pear, sage and notes, cut grass and white spring flower. Imported Fabiano 2006 Argillaia (Lugana); honey. Those aromas are followed by medium by Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. $24. 87 Bright citrus notes open the nose consistency and perky crispness. Imported by of this golden Lugana and are followed by aromas Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. Villa Medici 2008 Custoza Superi- of almond paste, pineapple and crushed mineral. ore; $NA. Ripe fruit aromas of peach You could pair this wine with shellfish or crus- 86 Tommasi 2009 Il Sestante Vigneto and honeydew emerge from this nose of this taceans thanks to the natural thickness and San Martino (Lugana); $16. Il Ses- luminous, golden Bianco di Custoza. The wine smoothness of its texture. Imported by Admiral 85 tante Lugana opens with easy, informal aromas of makes a big impact on the palate thanks to its Imports. —M.L. white flower, citrus and cut grass. There’s a min- creamy consistency and the ripeness of its yellow eral element as well that lends harmony and bal- fruit flavors. Pair it with shrimp in spicy sauce or Ottella 2009 Le Creete (Lugana); ance: Pair this wine with finger foods and crustaceans. —M.L. $NA. Turbiana (also known as Treb- 87 appetizers. Imported by Rolar. —M.L. biano di Lugana) grapes shape this luminous, Cantina di Custoza 2009 Custoza; freshly aromatic white wine. Aromas here include Bennati 2009 Soraighe (Lugana); $NA. Bright notes of cut grass, dried peach, apricot, yellow rose, citrus blossom and 85 $NA. This is a small, boutique winery herb and drying mineral come to the forefront of light touches of crushed mineral. The wine is 84 that has carefully selected fruit for this fresh and this cheerful Custoza. The wine is light and lumi- compact and drying on the finish. Pair with fresh compact Lugana. There are subdued aromas nous and hits the palate in a direct, refreshing water fish such as salmon or trout. —M.L. here of peach, honeydew, mineral and dried manner. It would make an excellent companion Sansonina 2008 Lugana; $NA. This grass. The wine cuts clean over the palate with to Thai spring rolls or fried vegetable tempura. 87 luminous Lugana (presented in a very natural acidity but it also offers sweet peach fla- Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. elegant transparent bottle) boasts bright aromas vors. —M.L. Villa Medici 2009 Custoza; $NA. of peach, light apricot tones and lemon zest backed by white mineral tones. In the mouth, the 85 Drying mineral tones are backed by wine is generous and full with deliciously inte- CUSTOZA cheerful notes of citrus and grapefruit. You’ll feel grated acidity and sweet fruit. Imported by mature fruit flavors and medium density in the Winebow. —M.L. Montresor 2009 Monte Fiera (Cus- mouth. This is an upfront, easy wine with smooth 87 toza); $NA. This crystalline Custoza flavors that would work with seafood, rice salad Zenato 2009 San Benedetto boasts a very well-balanced array of citrus, peach or fresh summer vegetable dishes. —M.L. 87 (Lugana); $14. This pretty Trebbiano- and drying mineral notes that hit the nose in a based white offers aromas of peach, pear and unified, harmonious manner. This wine performs white mineral followed by layers of white almond particularly well in the mouth thanks to the natu- TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO and honeysuckle. Pair this delicious wine with ral creaminess and refreshing crispness. lake fish, shrimps or oysters. Imported by Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L. Masciarelli 2006 Marina Cvetic’ Winebow. —M.L. 91 (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo); $60. This Cantina del Castelnuovo del thick, luscious and opulent Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Costaripa 2008 Pievecroce 86 Garda 2009 Ca’ Vegar (Custoza); shows the best of white wine making in central 86 (Lugana); $NA. The Trebbiano di $NA. Peach, honey, lemon zest and white flower Italy. There’s complexity and balance here all Lugana grape offers smooth texture with bright come off the nose of this light and luminous backed by beautifully intense aromas of stone aromas of ripe fruit, apricot and honeydew. wine. Friendly and informal, this wine will wash fruit, toasted almond and exotic fruit. Imported Thanks to that extra structure, you can pair this down with light meals and salads. —M.L. by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 7 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Masciarelli 2006 Castello di Semi- 90 vicoli (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo); $45. FALANGHINA PALLAGRELLO Castello di Semivicoli is a thick and succulent expression of Trebbiano that offers impressive 2008 Falanghina Terre del Principe 2009 Le Sèrole intensity and persistency. Aromas here include 87 (Sannio); $20. Falanghina is a bright 88 (Terre del Volturno); $50. This honey, acacia flower, stone fruit, apricot and and tonic white wine and this expression from expression shows a golden color with a slight mature melon. There’s also a touch of roasted amber hue followed by aromas of stone fruit, the Sannio appellation in southern Italy is no almond for extra complexity. Imported by Mas- honeydew and white flower. There’s good den- exception. The wine is driven by drying mineral ciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. sity and texture in the mouth followed by piquant tones as well as fresh aromas of apple and pear. spice. It’s more structured and sophisticated than Perticaia 2008 Trebbiano (Umbria); Imported by Winebow. —M.L. you’d expect. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 89 $NA. Perticaia delivers a gorgeous Treb- biano with rich creaminess to its texture and com- Mastroberardino 2008 Morabi- Terre del Principe 2009 Fontanavi- pelling aromas of passion fruit, melon, yellow rose 86 anca Falanghina (Irpinia); $NA. 88 gna (Terre del Volturno); $39. This and pulpy stone fruit. You could pair this beautiful Light, fresh and perfect with appetizers or sal- is a very beautiful wine with aromatic intensity wine with shellfish or crab cakes. Imported by ads, Falanghina is one of the favorite easy-drink- and fresh, crisp acidity. The wine is satisfying on Verdoni Imports. —M.L. ing white grapes of Southern Italy. Aromas here all levels: It drinks easily and would pair with fish, include white stone, lime and cantaloupe. crustaceans or vegetables. Very promising. Talamonti 2008 Aternum (Treb- Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 87 biano d’Abruzzo); $16. This pretty Fattoria Selvanova 2006 Acquavi- Trebbiano offers aromas of peach, candied fruit Ocone 2008 Falanghina (Taburno); and apricot. There’s a freshness to the aromas gna (Terre del Volturno); $19. $NA. Made from organically-grown 87 that translates into crisp and snappy zest in the 86 From the almost-extinct Pallagrello grape, this grapes, this is one of the most aromatically mouth. Drink this generous wine with seafood or luminous white wine really holds its own in terms white meat. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. sophisticated expressions of Falanghina you will of personality and uniqueness. There are pretty find. This wine boasts a saturated golden hue and mineral tones here but thanks to the wine’s age Carlo Mario Margiotta 2007 Cre- aromas of ripe fruit, peach, citrus blossom and (from the 2006 vintage), you’ll also get more 85 tara (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo); $NA. drying mineral are more complex than expected. complex notes of butterscotch, caramel and apri- Loads of butterscotch, pastry cream and caramel Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.L. cot. You can feel the high alcohol on the close. appear on the nose of this luminous Trebbiano Imported by David Vincent Selection. —M.L. d’Abruzzo. There are some ripe fruit notes of melon and apricot as well. Imported by R&R FIANO Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. PECORINO Mastroberardino 2008 Radici Talamonti 2009 Trebì (Trebbiano Ciavolich Giuseppe 2008 Colline 90 (Fiano di Avellino); $30. A beautiful d’Abruzzo); $10. Light and refresh- Pescaresi; $24. This is a very special 85 white wine that shows so much territorial per- 90 ing, with grassy notes and kiwi aromas, this well- wine from central Italy made with Pecorino sonality. You can taste the drying mineral tones priced Trebbiano makes an excellent choice with grapes (a variety that is currently experiencing cocktails or fresh summer foods like Caprese gained from the volcanic soils and the ripe fruit and happy revival). The wine opens with a salad or grilled tuna. Imported by Panebianco. and pear aromas from sunny climatic conditions. golden-amber color and offers spicy aromas of Best Buy. —M.L. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. pastry cream, vanilla, spice, exotic fruit, honey and apricot. It’s a big, structured white wine to Talamonti 2008 Trebì (Trebbiano Cantele 2009 Alticelli Fiano pair with pork or veal. Imported by Clyde 85 d’Abruzzo); $10. Trebì has a fresh and 87 (Salento); $NA. This is a delightfully Thomas. —M.L. luminous personality backed by aromas of white easy and fresh white wine. Like most expressions stone, citrus and peach. There’s a touch of green of this promising variety, this wine shoes mineral Cantina Tollo 2008 Terre di Chieti; $28. fruit or kiwi as well that gives it a zesty, crisp feel characteristics backed by citrus, peach and pear. 87 Pecorino is a naturally structured on the close. Imported by Panebianco. Best Buy. and intense white wine that delivers aromas of Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. —M.L. pear, peach and butterscotch. In the mouth this native variety offers smooth, silky richness and Rocca del Principe 2008 Fiano di Valori 2008 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo; long lasting density. Imported by Enotec Avellino; $20. There’s a slightly awk- 85 $10. Valori is a line of fresh and afford- 83 Imports, Inc. —M.L. able wines. This easy expression of Trebbiano ward note of carbon or smoke that blows off soon offers aromas of stone fruit and cut grass. It’s a enough. This shows medium consistency with a La Valentina 2008 Colline great wine to pair with light summer foods. fresh finish that is driven by pear and peach fla- 87 Pescaresi; $15. The Pecorino grape is Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. vors. Imported by Indigenous Selections. —M.L. one of the hottest native varieties to emerge from

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 Italy. Quality minded producer La Valentina Casale del Giglio 2008 Antinoo the wine delivers mineral tones, citrus and stone presents a beautiful, structured expression with 89 (Lazio); $24. A gorgeous blend of fruit. It’s a great match to seafood. Imported by intense aromas of melon, apricot, butterscotch Chardonnay and fragrant Viognier that shows the Winebow. —M.L. and yellow candy. Imported by Dalla Terra Win- structure and creaminess of the first grape and ery Direct. —M.L. the floral, fruity intensity of the second. The wine Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2008 Fras- is crisp, clean and would pair with basil pesto. 87 cati Superiore; $14. A blend of Mal- Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L. vasia and Trebbiano, this luminous, golden wine VERMENTINO shows fragrant aromas of honeysuckle, white Mastroberardino 2008 Nova Serra melon, peach blossom and almond. Imported by Pala 2009 Stellato (Vermentino di 88 (Greco di Tufo); $30. Nova Serra Vias Imports. —M.L. 87 Sardegna); $NA. A luminous and opens with a luminous color accented by golden expressive interpretation of Vermentino that highlights followed by aromas of melon, peach Bigi 2009 White Blend (Est! Est!! boasts Mediterranean accents of dried sage, basil, and Golden Delicious apple. The wine is silky 86 Est!!!); $12. Est! Est!! Est!!! takes its white mineral, citrus and stone fruit. This is the and creamy on the close, and those qualities name from an ancient legend in which a bishop quintessential wine to pair with grilled fish. make it a good partner to shellfish or risotto. desired some good wine on his travels to Rome. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. In Montefiascone, his servant found wine so good —M.L. he wrote Est (“It is”) three times to alert his mas- Casale del Giglio 2009 Petit ter. This blend of white grapes is light, informal Pala 2009 I Fiori (Vermentino di 87 Manseng (Lazio); $24. Casale del and very welcoming. Imported by Opici Wines. 85 Sardegna); $NA. Fresh and fragrant, Giglio, from the Lazio region in central Italy, —M.L. offering layers of cut grass, dried herbs, citrus exports what may well be Italy’s only 100% and passion fruit. It’s an easy, no-fuss wine with a expression of Petit Manseng. The wine is fragrant Bigi 2009 Vipra Bianca (Umbria); crisp finish that would pair with fried calamari. and ripe with pretty tones of peach blossom, jas- 86 $13. Here’s a fresh and easy-going blend Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. mine and honeysuckle. Imported by Soilair of Grechetto and Chardonnay from Umbria that —M.L. Selection. —M.L. offers just the right level of freshness and inten- sity you need for a successful pairing with shrimp Santa Maria La Palma 2008 Conti Zecca 2008 Cantalupi and avocado salad or fried crab cakes. Imported 85 Aragosta (Vermentino di 87 Chardonnay (Salice Salentino); by Opici Wines. —M.L. Sardegna); $12. Aromas of pine and dried $NA. This Chardonnay does a really nice job of herbs emerge from the nose of this light and expressing the natural creaminess of the variety Bosco del Merlo 2008 Turranio luminous Vermentino from Sardinia. The wine and the mature fruit and peach notes associated 86 Sauvignon (Lison-Pramaggiore); also boasts fruit nuances of citrus, peach and with the sun-drenched territory that shaped it. $NA. Here’s a very attractive Sauvignon with green fruit. Imported by Frederick Wildman & The wine is smooth, creamy and dense in the clean aromas and a perky disposition. You can Sons, Ltd. —M.L. mouth. Imported by Mionetto USA. —M.L. drink this wine with light vegetable dishes or raw fish and it will keep your palate fresh. Imported Barberani 2008 Vermentino Il Conte 2008 Villa Prandone by New England Wine and Spirits inc. —M.L. 84 (Umbria); $NA. This Vermentino 87 Cavaceppo (Marche); $14. Here’s a opens with ripe peach aromas with citrus and lovely white wine from Central Italy that you Cantele 2009 Chardonnay even a playful hint of green lime. But power and should definitely try. Naturally creamy and rich, 86 (Salento); $NA. A crisp and simple a slightly alcoholic aftertaste are what appear on this luminous white delivers aromas of stone Chardonnay with bright notes of citrus and pas- the close. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. fruit, melon and yellow rose. Imported by Mas- sion fruits, lime and green fruit. The wine is sim- ciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. ple and light on the palate with a refreshing, zesty feel overall. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. OTHER WHITE WINES Lungarotti 2009 Torre di Giano 87 (Torgiano); $15. This is a delightful Cantina Cinque Terre 2008 Liguria; Umani Ronchi 2007 Casal di Serra blend of Trebbiano and Grechetto that offers a 86 $25. Here’s a rare and exciting blend of 90 Vecchie Vigne (Verdicchio dei crisp, clean and refreshing experience overall. Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino from a coopera- Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore); $28. Aromas of citrus, kiwi and stone fruit would pair tive winery in the beautiful Cinque Terre region Made with 40-year-old Verdicchio vines, this with light summery foods and salads. Imported of northern Italy. You won’t find these native beautiful white shows the best of Marche wine- by Vin Divino. —M.L. grapes anywhere else and the wine is perfectly making. It’s a thick, creamy wine with peach, suited to the fresh fish dishes served in this gor- apricot, almond, vanilla and pastry cream aromas. Mastroberardino 2008 Coda di geous part of the world. Imported by Biagio Cru Pair it with duck or Cornish game hen. Imported 87 Volpe (Lacryma Christi del Vesu- & Estate Wines, LLC. —M.L. by Bedford International. —M.L. vio); $20. Lacryma Christi (made from native Coda di Volpe grapes) is a special wine. It doesn’t Conti Leopardi di San Leopardo give much at first, but as time passes in the glass, 86 2008 Valdicia (Marche); $15. This

WineMag.com | 8 1 BUYING I GUIDE blend of Verdicchio, Chardonnay and Trebbiano clean with shadings of ripe cherry, spice and offers bright crispness and pretty flavors of peach, leather. The wine shows a touch of bitterness on citrus and cantaloupe. This easygoing white plays the close and fresh acidity is reigned in by the its best cards in the mouth and would pair with wine’s soft, polished finish. —M.L. shrimp cocktail or scallops. Imported by Monar- chia Matt International. —M.L. Bonotto delle Tezze 2009 Tai 84 (Veneto); $10. Tai is an indigenous L’Astore Masseria 2008 Krita grape found in northern Italy that offers sweet 86 (Salento); $15. A luminous blend of aromas of honeysuckle, orange blossom, butter- Chardonnay and Malvasia Bianca with pretty aro- scotch and caramel. It leaves a strong aromatic mas of white stone, candied fruit and loads of mark on the palate and should be paired with peach. There’s good density and natural consis- foods cooked with herbs or basil. Imported by tency here yet the ultimate endnote is fresh and Myssura Trading. —M.L. clean. Imported by US Wine Imports. —M.L. Ippolito 1845 2007 Res Dei Greco Conti Zecca 2007 Luna (Salento); 84 Bianco (Cirò); $18. This expression of 85 $NA. From the beautiful Salento region Greco from Calabria offers a compact, light- comes this warm-climate, slightly aged blend of weight feel with easy aromas of stone fruit and Chardonnay and Malvasia Bianca. The color is white mineral. It’s a fresh, clean and simple wine. rich and saturated and so are the aromas of Imported by Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. mature apricot, passion fruit and almond. It’s a big, chewy wine with loads of intensity. Imported Ocone 2008 Coda di Volpe by MW Imports. —M.L. 84 (Taburno); $NA. Candy-like notes of butterscotch and caramel open the nose and are Il Conte 2008 Villa Prandone followed by mature notes of stone fruit and apri- 85 Aurato (Falerio dei Colli Ascolani); cot. There’s a mineral- and saccharine-like quality $9. This interesting blend of Trebbiano, Passe- and the wine is fresh, light and crisp in the rina and Pecorino offers fragrant pulses of peach, mouth. Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. yellow fruit and honeysuckle with light shadings —M.L. of crushed mineral and dried herbs. The wine is compact, simple and fresh on the close. Imported Terrazzo 2008 Marche; $9. An infor- by Masciarelli Wine Co. Best Buy. —M.L. 84 mal 80-20 blend of Verdicchio and Treb- biano, this luminous white offers fresh tones of Pala 2009 I Fiori (Nuragus di lemon zest, pulpy stone fruit and mature kiwi. 85 Cagliari); $NA. I Fiori epitomizes one It’s a great wine for washing down summertime of those crisp, clean and refreshing white Italian picnic foods. Imported by Monarchia Matt Inter- wines that beg a pairing with sushi, smoked national. —M.L. salmon and crushed coriander or swordfish carpaccio. There’s a drying mineral note backed by aromas of dried flowers. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.

Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2008 Saula 85 Carta Nera (Frascati Superiore); $15. A rich and golden-colored Frascati Superi- ore with intense aromas of orange zest, ginger, graham cracker and butterscotch. There are oxi- dized notes here but the wine is rich and succu- lent in the mouth. Imported by Saranty Imports. —M.L.

Viticoltori in Avio 2006 Terra dei 85 Forti Enantio (Valdadige); $NA. Enantio is a little-known indigenous grape of northern Italy and this is a rare, 100% expression of the variety. The nose here is subdued and

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 WineMag.com | 8 3 BUYING I GUIDE

vanilla aroma. The flavor is all on the finish: Spirits complex, rich, lingering notes of cocoa, coffee and leather, balanced with the right amount of A WIDE WORLD OF INTERNATIONAL WHISKIES bite. Good value. t’s a big world out there, and we’ve got the and other states now produce brandies and Charbay Hop-Flavored Whiskey whiskies to prove it. For this month’s column, whiskies in the same facility. 93 (USA; Charbay Winery & Dis- Iwhiskies came in from Ireland, Wales, France, A brief word about what’s not represented in tillery, St. Helena, CA); 55% abv; $325. Japan, Canada and various corners of the United the reviews below: Scotch whiskies, which will be This whiskey reads like a cross between Bour- States. They spanned all styles—single malt, covered in depth separately, and U.S. Bourbon bon and a fine Cognac, delivering rich aromas blended, peated, cask-finished—as well as all ages, and Rye whiskies, since both categories were cov- of caramel, espresso and crème brûlée. mash bills (the blend of grains used to make the ered in recent months. Although initially brisk and spicy, the flavor spirit) and colors, from crystal clear to deep nut- So what’s the best way to consume whiskey? fades to a long burnt-toffee finish and bracing brown. Although a number of whiskey-based cocktails bite. Feels warm and soft on the tongue. It’s an amazing testament that so many coun- exist—the Whiskey Sour, Manhattan, Rob Roy and tries have opted to distill whiskey (or whisky, as it’s Rusty Nail, to name just a few classics—whiskey is John L. Sullivan Irish Whiskey (Ire- referred to in Canada, Japan and Scotland). Origi- arguably the trickiest base ingredient to use in 93 land; Undisputed International nally, whiskey was crafted in countries that lacked cocktails. Perhaps that’s why many purists opt to LLC, Washington, DC); 40% abv, $24. This the warm climate for producing fermented drinks drink whiskey straight, either neat, with ice or with Bourbon-barrel-finished whiskey is a treat, made from grapes. However, this is no longer an just a splash of water to help coax out flavors. with a light amber color, caramel and orange iron-clad rule. In fact, some distillers in California —Kara Newman peel aroma, and a lingering caramel and spice finish. Soft, smooth and full-bodied. Gentleman Jack Rare Tennessee golden color and scent of apple, oak and 96 Whiskey (USA; Jack Daniels Dis- vanilla. A light, citrusy flavor finishes with a Connemara Peated Single Malt tillery, Lynchburg, TN); 40% abv, $30. smoky, peaty note. Medium feel. 92 Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Sazerac This honey-colored whiskey is mellow, smooth, Company, New Orleans, LA); 40% abv, mouthwatering and delicious. Rich and pretty Bernheim Original Kentucky $43. Smoke bomb alert! Imbibers who love a caramel and citrus aromas precede complex 93 Straight Wheat Whiskey (USA; peaty profile will enjoy this smoky-but-smooth flavors of leather, tobacco, vanilla and cocoa. Heaven Hill Distilleries, Bardstown, KY); single malt. Pair with assertive flavors, like Its long finish displays lots of caramel, spicy 45% abv, $30. This small-batch whiskey, with sausages or charcuterie. cinnamon and ginger. Pair with a cigar. its bright copper penny color and bewitchingly sweet aromas of cocoa, mocha and fresh-baked Hibiki Aged 12 Years Whisky Slieve Foy 8 year old Irish Single cookies, is one of the few “straight wheat” 92 (Japan; Suntory International 95 Malt Whiskey (Ireland; Preiss whiskeys out there. The flavors are brisk and Corp., New York, NY); 43% abv, $65. With Imports, San Diego, CA); 46% abv, $45. restrained, with leather and tobacco tones and a little water, this golden blended whisky opens This was a pleasant surprise: soft, fresh, deli- a clean citrus and vanilla finish. Despite a rela- up to delicate, nuanced honey and floral aro- cate and lovely. It has a light straw color and is tively high proof, it still comes across as mellow mas and flavors. Finishes smoky, dry and brisk. perfumed with pineapples and tropical fruit. and balanced. Drink straight up, with ice. The slightly fruity flavor finishes with a wispy Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey (Ireland; smokiness, and lingers on. Canadian Club Cask 92 Sazerac Company, New Orleans, 93 Whisky (Canada; Canadian Club LA); 40% abv, $20. Golden honey color. The Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Select Import Company, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, aroma is a pleasing mix of caramel and faint 94 Tennessee Whiskey, (USA; Jack $26. Aged eight years, then finished in Span- smoke. Bold, oaky flavors, rich feel and beauti- Daniels Distillery, Lynchburg, TN); 47% ish Sherry casks. The final product is mellow, ful, lingering butterscotch finish with a faint abv, $40. At first, this whiskey is easy to silky and refined. While the Sherry influence whisper of smoke and just the right amount of underestimate, since the amber color and mild isn’t overt, the extra cask aging shows in the bite. Sip over ice. toffee aroma give little away. But one sip, and deep nut-brown color and warm flavors of dark it is clear this whiskey means business: Deep chocolate, Guinness stout and hazelnuts, Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey vanilla cookie and cigar tobacco flavors unfold which fade into a long, intriguing finish. Pair 92 (USA; Stranahan’s Colorado to a big, burnt-caramel finish, which washes with a sweet and sticky dessert. Whiskey, Denver, CO); 47% abv, $59. This over the palate like a rolling wave. Manhattan- 100% malted barley spent two years in new worthy. Canadian Mist Black Diamond charred oak and boasts an amber color, sweet 93 Premium Select Whisky (Canada; caramel scent with a touch of coconut and Armorik Whiskey (Brittany, Brown-Forman Beverages, Louisville, juicy apple, and relatively dry flavors. What 93 France; Preiss Imports, San Diego, KY); 43% abv, $16. This leather club chair of sets this whiskey apart is the remarkable deep CA); 46% abv, $55. A single malt with a a whisky has a nut-brown color and a pert cocoa and pronounced coffee finish and vel-

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 vety, creamy mouthfeel, reminiscent of ice cherry-infused Bourbon is just plain fun. Look Glen Breton Rare (Canada; Preiss cream and root beer foam. An alcohol sting for strawberry jam fragrance and a big, rau- 88 Imports, San Diego, CA); 43% cuts through, but should temper over ice cous, sticky, supersweet vanilla and cherry soda abv, $95. A 10-year-old single malt whisky nicely. flavor. It has a syrupy, viscous feel, but just modeled on Highland Scotch. The influence enough whiskey bite to be drinkable straight shows in the fruity, honeyed scent, with just a Caribou Crossing Single Barrel up, or mixed with ginger ale. 91 Canadian Whisky (Canada; Saz- hint of smoke to tickle the nose. The flavors erac Company, New Orleans, L); 40% Royal Canadian Small Batch Cana- are almond-like, with pleasing touches of peat abv, $50. A smooth and enjoyable caramel 90 dian Whisky (Canada; Sazerac and cocoa, though it finishes oddly yeasty and bomb, from the pretty scent straight through Company, Frankfort, KY); 40% abv, $30. beer-like. This whiskey would do well balanced to the lingering finish. Sippable over ice. The quiet dignity of the bottle reflects the dark with sweetness, as in a whiskey sour. amber liquid inside. Give this one some time Jameson Irish Whiskey (Ireland; to open up, and the reward is a restrained cof- Hirsch Selection 20 Year Old 91 John Jameson Import Company, fee, tobacco and oak profile with a long 87 American Whiskey (Preiss Purchase, NY); 40% abv, $25. Golden color, caramel finish. Imports, San Diego, CA); 48% abv, $80. apple and oak aromas and a medium feel. Fin- Light amber in color, with warm, heady butter- ishes full and oaky, with faint butterscotch and Connemara 12-year-old Peated scotch and cookie dough fragrances; too bad smoky notes and an alcoholic bite. Single Malt Irish Whiskey (Ire- 89 the taste doesn’t mirror the scent. Instead, land; Sazerac Company, New Orleans, The Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky there’s a flash of sweetness on the tongue and a LA); 40% abv, $94. A rugged, undeniably (Japan; Suntory International nice vanilla finish, but it is all quickly over- 91 peaty whiskey, with lots of smoke offset by Corp., New York, NY); 43% abv, $45. whelmed by alcohol. Even cut with water, the undertones of vanilla and faint butterscotch. Apple and pear aromas, and delicate floral and spirit is just too darn hot. fruity flavors. This Japanese whisky finishes Jack Daniels Old No. 7 Black Label smoky, elegant and restrained. 89 Tennessee Whiskey (USA; Jack Penderyn Single Malt Welsh Daniels Distillery, Lynchburg TN); 40% 86 Whiskey (Wales; Sazerac Com- Classic 12 by Canadian Club abv, $18. Familiar maple syrup color and pany, New Orleans, LA); 46% abv, $70. (Canada; Canadian Club Import 90 vanilla and oak flavor, good dose of alcohol Company, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, $22. At first glance, it’s easy to mistake this whiskey burn. Finishes relatively dry, with some vanilla This honey-colored spirit is packaged inside an for wine, thanks to the bottle shape and design and caramel. Jack and Coke is the classic impressive bottle with wide shoulders and a and the light amber liquid within. Though fin- combo. cut-glass base. The whisky has virtually no ished in Madeira casks, it is unmistakably aroma, which seems like a missed opportunity whiskey. The rich, faintly caramel scent hints at The Tyrconnell Single Malt Irish given the array of flavors: a sweet dark-choco- Madeira, but unfortunately it’s not apparent in Whiskey (Ireland; Sazerac Com- late note segues into a mellow finish of honey, 89 pany, New Orleans, LA); 40% abv, $35. the flavor, which tends more toward oak and oranges, cinnamon and clove. Ends with a anise. tongue-coating finish. Light gold color and sweet, juicy fragrance of apples, pears, and honey. Despite a soft feel at Canadian Mist Blended Canadian Danny Boy Premium Irish Whiskey first, this whiskey shows a smoky rawness and Whisky (Canada; Brown-Forman, (Ireland; Total Beverage Solution, alcohol bite. 85 90 Louisville, KY). 40% abv, $12. Mt. Pleasant, SC); 40% abv, $22. Golden Amber in color, vanilla and slightly smoky scent. The taste WhipperSnapper Oregon Spirit color, with a resiny, nutty scent. Despite oaky is smoky but not overpowering. 89 Whiskey (USA; Ransom Spirits flavor and a thin feel, there’s a very nice vanilla Co., Sheridan, OR); 42% abv, $30. Light finish. Alcohol bite. Mix it in a cocktail and feel Hirsch Selection Canadian Rye amber hue, pungent anise notes on the nose no guilt about it. 90 (Canada; Preiss Imports, San and tongue. With time, the flavor opens up to Diego, CA) 43% abv, $55. This 20-year-old more cereal-like and oaky tones, finishing with Hirsch Selection American Corn Canadian rye retains a light touch. Golden color an invigorating hit of cinnamon. A real live- 83 Whiskey (Preiss Imports, San and soft citrusy scent with a hint of vanilla. Fla- wire of a whiskey. Diego, CA); 45% abv, $30. It’s hard to vors are light and honey-like, with a floral and believe that a spirit aged over four years has vanilla finish, and that signature rye bite. Canadian Club Reserve Aged 10 88 Years (Canada; Canadian Club such a pale straw color and mild aroma. Red Stag by Jim Beam (USA; Import Company, Deerfield, IL); 40% abv, There’s a strong whiff of alcohol, with slightly 90 James B. Beam Distilling Co., $17. Amber color, not much aroma. Soft feel, apple- and plastic-like aromas. Light feel. Frankfort, KY); 40% abv, $18. Who says all well-structured. One-dimensional flavor but whiskey needs to be so serious? This black nice finish: nutty, crème brûlée, vanilla.

WineMag.com | 8 5 BUYING I GUIDE

THE WINE ENTHUSIAST Beer SPIRITS BUYING GUIDE

The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single FROM BELGIUM,WITH LOVE reviewer, Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full enerally, when people start to become drinking examples a bit dangerous. Given their name of the product, its alcoholic strength expressed as interested in the world of great beer, they density, weight and structure, they are usually percent alcohol by volume, the producer’s name, and Gstart with the brews of a country known excellent cellar candidates for aging. the suggested U.S. retail price. If the price cannot be for its rich beer heritage and reputation for out- Dubbels are also rich and malty, but exhibit less confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottle unless otherwise indicated. standing quality: Belgium. The most popular intro fruitiness and alcoholic strength than their dark into Belgian style beers is witbiers, but from there strong ale cousins. Tripels are known for their well- TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS people move on to other styles, from Belgian pale masked strength (traditional average abv between Tastings are conducted individually in a controlled tast- ales to saisons, bière bruts to lambics. The options 7.5–9.5%) and complex spice profile. They’re also ing environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formal are many and the results are almost always tasty. usually very dry and bottle-conditioned (or refer- reviews are ever conducted in the presence of any pro- ducer or industry representative. Samples are tasted There’s no denying the influence that these his- mented in the bottle). Quadrupels (or Quads, for blind in flights of no more than six to eight products. toric beers have had on the brewing world. From short) are even bigger and bolder than their Price is not a factor in the evaluation. superb traditional offerings to domestic interpreta- Dubbel and Tripel sibling styles, a true dark strong tions with a unique twist, there’s something for ale indeed. Full bodied and mildly bitter, they are ABOUT THE SCORES everyone available today. Belgian-style dark strong intense selections with assertive rich malty sweet- Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accom- panying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s special ales are big and bold, essentially the brute bullies ness and noticeable alcohol. characteristics. The numerical ratings correspond to of the beer world. Traditionally bottle-conditioned, With all of the choices available and the quality in the following manner: they are complex, rich and malty with significant improved distribution of both imported and

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. esters, spicy phenols and low to moderate bitter- domestic bottles, there’s never been a better time Superb 94–97: A great achievement. ness. Alcohol typically ranges from 8–11% abv, to start your Belgian-inspired beer education. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. though they can go as high as 15%, making easy- Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. La Fin du Monde (Tripel; Uni- Full bodied and quite heavy on the palate with Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. 97 broue, Canada); 9.0% abv, the alcohol present throughout, but the $10/750 ml. Golden in color with a glowing assertive profile has all of the components to Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. orange vibrancy throughout, topped by a stun- make this a beer that will age beautifully and

Certain spirits are designated as Best Buys. Spirits earn- ning off-white head that lingers but leaves a mellow with time. ing this designation offer a high level of quality in rela- sticky lacing behind when it finally subsides. tion to price. There are no specific guidelines or The aromas jump right out of the glass: ripe Allagash Tripel Reserve Belgian formulae for determining Best Buys. nectarine, fresh apricot and juicy citrus flecked 94 Style Ale (Tripel; Allagash Brew- with clove and peppery spice. The mouth is ing, ME); 9.0% abv, $9/750 ml. Known for SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEW lively but smooth and creamy, with a great producing superb Belgian-style beers, it’s no Spirits should be submitted to the following reviewing location: Kara Newman c/o 36 West 20th St, 3rd effervescence to keep things peppy. Flavors of surprise that Allagash’s Tripel Reserve is as Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should biscuit malts, banana, hard pear and more good as it is. A hazy golden-yellow color in the be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at sweet lemony citrus follow in the mouth. The glass with a billowy white head that shows [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will make finish is crisp and clean, leaving you perfectly good retention. Quite intense scents of candi every effort to sample all spirits submitted for review. primed for more. sugar (Belgian brewing sugar), soft green There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will apple, pepper and sweet spice esters typical of be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All Trappistes Rochefort 10 (Quadru- Belgian yeast start off on the nose and then submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, pel; Brasserie de Rochefort, Bel- which may be downloaded from our website. Please be 96 transition to the mouth alongside additional sure to check the spirits tasting schedule prior to submit- gium); 11.3% abv, $7/330 ml. One of flavors of sweet pithy citrus and raw dough. ting samples. Rochefort’s three offerings, all numerically The hops appear on the midpalate and linger named (6, 8, and 10) after their “Belgian through the dry finish, lifting any perceived LABELS degrees,” a traditional means of measuring sugary sweetness. Warming and full but sur- Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their gravity (or the sweetness of the wort before prisingly mouthwatering. representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along fermentation) and determining the final with tasting notes and scores. For information on strength of the beer. This is by far their Ommegang Abbey Ale (Dubbel; label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at strongest offering in terms of overall intensity 93 Brewery Ommegang, NY); 8.5% 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email and alcoholic strength. Sweet malt and bready abv, $8/750 ml. Moderately carbonated with [email protected]. yeast dominate the nose and mouth alongside a full, sweet body, this is a classic brew that Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at notes of prune, fig and brandied pear laced has retained its reputation throughout the buyingguide.winemag.com with sweet cigar spice and a chocolate dusting. years as an approachable and enjoyable Bel-

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2011 gian-style domestic beer. The Belgian yeast THE WINE ENTHUSIAST aromas of clove, banana and biscuit conquer BEER BUYING GUIDE the nose, with suggestions of cherry pit, can- The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recent died date and caramelized malt fighting for detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo. recognition. Complex and malty in the mouth Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also with a dry, somewhat nutty finish. A very noted are the full name of the product, beer style, drinkable but also quite strong beer. alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by volume, producer’s name, and the suggested/average Lost Abbey 10 Commandments U.S. retail price. If price cannot be confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for the bottle 92 Naturally Flavored Ale (Belgian size or packaging indicated. Dark Strong Ale; Port Brewing, CA); 10.0% abv, $12/750 ml. The bottle reads, TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS “Ale brewed with honey, raisins and rosemary” Formal evaluation sessions occur in a professional tast- ing room. Beers are tasted alone; no formal reviews and you can definitely pick up on all three are ever conducted in the presence of any producer or throughout the nose and mouth along with industry representative. Samples are tasted blind in accents of caramel sauce and spicy stewed flights of no more than six products; the category being whole plums. Dark fruit initially floods the reviewed may or may not be divulged. Price is not a factor in the evaluation. mouth, while notes of dried herbs and honey- suckle unfold after swallow. Full bodied and ABOUT THE SCORES robust but softly carbonated, leading into a The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the long and flavorful finish laced with roasted following manner: ground cocoa nibs and a touch of sweet smoke. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Lost Abbey Judgement Day Ale Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. 90 (Quadrupel; Port Brewing, CA); Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recom- mended. 10.5% abv, $9/750 ml. The label indicates Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; that this is an “Ale Brewed with Raisins” and often good value. you can certainly tell: rum-soaked raisin fla- Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. vors abound. Looking past that, vinous nuances of dark plum and berries fight for Certain beers are designated as Best Buys. Beers recognition alongside hints of brown sugar, tof- earning this designation offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or fee, dried dates and sweet spice. The mouth is formulae for determining Best Buys. Cellar Selections hot and medium-weight, with a seriously sweet are beers that would be good candidates for cellaring. and slick body that’s looking to be lifted by a bit more carbonation than what’s provided. SUBMITTING BEERS FOR REVIEW Good drinkability but the raisins conquer a lit- Beers should be submitted to Wine Enthusiast’s head- quarters at 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY tle too much of this brew’s overall character. 10549. Inquiries and submissions should be addressed to Lauren Buzzeo at [email protected]. Smuttynose Big Beer Series Grav- There is no charge for submitting beers, and Wine 89 itation (Quadrupel; Smuttynose Enthusiast will make every effort to sample all beers submitted for review. There is, however, Brewing, NH); 12.0% abv, $7/22 oz. A no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, Belgian-style quadrupel ale, this is the latest or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All offering in the Smuttynose Big Beer Series. submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, which may be downloaded from our website. Brewed with 200 pounds of raisin purée per batch in addition to Belgian specialty malts and LABELS yeast, this is a rich mahogany-colored beer Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their rep- with a seriously intense profile that stands out resentatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, from more traditionally-styled Quads. Plum, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label caramel and a boozy warmth mingle with the purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone assertive raisin aromas. The mouthfeel is thick at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or e-mail and viscous but has a slight chewiness to it, [email protected]. with sweet flavors of toffee, stewed raisin and Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at burnt sugar fighting through the alcoholic bite. buyingguide.winemag.com

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