A NIGHT AT THE OPERA Your Quintessential Guide to Xiqu

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JUNE 2019

THE PANEL OF JUDGES 荆孝敏Jing Xiaomin Editor, Vice President of China Intercontinental Press

Introduction： Representative projects Engaged in foreign publishing for more than 20 Quintessence of Chinese Traditional Culture, Series years, participated in the planning, application, of Contemporary Chinese books, Series of Beauty of publication of 100 foreign publishing projects China, Regional Promotion Project of Spanish Works and won a number of awards. Participated in the of Contemporary Chinese Writers, Chinese National review of some publications and foreign cultural Treasure Series of Picture Albums, Chinese Traditional exchange programs as an expert. Story Picture Books and many more.

陈勇仁Yongren Chen

Researcher at City Project Studio Manager of Urban Story Creation and Curator, Director and Introduction： Representative projects Born in Taipei and living in Shanghai, Mr. Chen is engaged in telling stores about Shanghai through At present, the Shanghai project has completed five sub-themes: - Old Buildings toillustration, express the multimedia, enriched and derivative varied urbandesign, stories 3D - History and Culture ofprinting Shanghai and and literary thus creation.create a nameHis work card attempts for this - Environmental Protection and Sustainable Development branded city. - Shanghai Business Heritage - People and Logistics 主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社 地址 : 北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心 邮编 100045 Published by China Intercontinental Press Address: 11th Floor South Building, HengHua linternational Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, 100045, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 陈陆军 Chen Lujun 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 付平 Fu Ping 编辑 Editor 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili 发行 Circulation 李若琳 Li Ruolin

Editor-in-Chief Valerie Osipov Deputy Editor Edoardo Donati Fogliazza National Arts Editor Bryan Grogan Designers Ivy Zhang 张怡然 , Joan Dai 戴吉莹 , Nuo Shen 沈丽丽 Contributors Alexandra Osipov, Andrew Braun, Bryan Grogan, Cristina Ng, Curtis Dunn, Ellie Dunnigan, Flynn Murphy, Grigor Grigorian, Gwen Kim, Hawk Lincoln, Holly Baer, Karen Toast, Lei Xiaodong, Mark Leong, Matthew Bossons, Mia Li, Mollie Gower, Naomi Lounsbury, Sid Gulinck

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2 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Editor’s Note JUNE 2019 DEALS

We're giving away tickets to some of here are many things to love about China. Street food, Taobao, cheap public transportation, WeChat Pay – the list goes on. There’s just something about this the very best Beijing Tplace that’s unlike anywhere else in the world. (Really though, where else can you eat hot pot at all hours of the night?) Another reason to love China: the thousands parties, openings, ancient temples to traditional art forms. of yearsOne ofsuch history emblem: – and Chinese a culture opera. built Generally on preserving coined these as xiqu significant, this imperial emblems, drama from shows and talks all form is held sacred in Chinese theater to this day. In this month’s cover story, Edoardo Donati Fogliazza takes us through xiqu’s own long-spanning history and how it’s still month, alongside Hear from opera actor Liu Jianyang, learn how to interpret hand gestures and how to free meals, drinks, identifysurviving characters today, thanks simply to itsby devotedtheir face and masks selfless (shout-out practitioners. to my sisterIt doesn’t for the stop beauti there:- fully designed illustrations). Flip to p. 40 for your quintessential guide to . discounts and prizes. Elsewhere in the magazine, That’s PRD Editor-in-Chief Matthew Bossons takes us through a revealing and captivating photography series of China (p. 10); Bryan Grogan All you have to do catches up with British band Fujiya & Miyagi before their Beijing show (p. 34); and Holly Baer tries out TRB’s new French fusion restaurant (p. 54). is scan the QR code Until next month, below, follow us on WeChat and keep an eye out for your chance to win. You'll get some other great stuff on your phone too.

Valerie Osipov Editor-in-Chief

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 3 6 CITY 7 UP UP AND AWAY Daxing’s new airport is almost ready for takeoff

8 GENERATION GAP Two Beijingers share their thoughts on video gaming

14 URBAN DICTIONARY This slang term is a little too 7 much

16 LIFE & STYLE 19 SCENE & HEARD An ultra-hip furniture store lands in Sanlitun 20 COVER UP Stay cool all summer with these vibrant facekinis 22 HOT SPOT A travel guide to in 22 province

26 ARTS

30 ALL OF THE LIGHTS A spotlight on China’s independent filmmakers

36 TURN ON, TUNE IN Underground artists tap into online radio for exposure

38 ON REPEAT Three new China albums 30 we’re listening to

50 EAT & DRINK 53 MIFAN OR MAFAN An artsy cafe, froyo and cheap burgers

55 CREAM OF THE CROP New Sanlitun bar Chocolate & Milk looks to shake things up

57 ALL THAT JAZZ Wangjing venue B.B. Queen 57 serves blues, booze and more

4 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM 40 THE SHOW MUST GO ON How traditional Chinese opera lives on in contemporary times

10 THROUGH THE LENS A stunning photography series showcasing a lesser- seen China

34 BRIGHTON BEATS Alt-rockers Fujiya & Miyagi on the evolution of their sound

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 5 CITY

INTO FOCUS Chinese-American photographer shares remarkable photos of China, p10

Generation Gap The Big Picture Urban Dictionary p8 p9 p14 TALES OF THE CITY 7 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

the runways of the Daxing airport have already already of the Daxing airport have the runways a for with other types of aircrafts been tested CGTN. told of 112 hours, authorities total With the new airport soon ready for takeoff, takeoff, for With the new airport soon ready Built Airport will shut down. Beijing Nanyuan very China’s Airport was in 1907, Nanyuan first, a monumental closure. making this Built to relieve some pressure from the from some pressure relieve Built to International Beijing Capital overcrowded Airport, sits in the southern the new terminal it of the city in Daxing district,suburbs where the development to contribute to is expected Resulting areas. and innovation research of key of USD11.5 billion, it plans an investment from by year every 72 million passengers serve to claim the title as one of the largest 2025 and to airports in the world. - - - -

s from four Chinese airlines airlines Chinese four lanes from at Beijing Daxing landed successfully 13, as re on May Airport International

lighting system of the airport, com though system lighting In fact, step. the last testing planes are mercial trial landings are proof that all major construc proof trial landings are the and even communication facilities criteria, hub’s star-shaped glass-and-steel terminal, the terminal, star-shaped glass-and-steel hub’s of June 30. pro is a standard flights test Organizing the minimum performance verify to cedure to walk through the new airline the new airline through until Oct. walk 1 to the official deadline by complete be entirely to While we’ll have to wait wait to have completion. While we’ll close to tion is finished and that the new airport is set of Beijing’s brand-new airport, is now which of Beijing’s brand-new passenger planes on the pristine landing strips were the first air carriers to land one of their to the first air carriers were Eastern Airlines, Air China and Xiamen Airlines and Xiamen Airlines China Air Airlines, Eastern China Southern Airlines, China China Southern Airlines, China CGTN. by ported NEW AIRPORT Donati Fogliazza Edoardo by

TRIALS UNDERWAY AT BEIJING’S BEIJING’S AT UNDERWAY TRIALS

READY FOR TAKEOFF: FLIGHT FLIGHT READY TAKEOFF: FOR P THE BUZZ

GENERATION GAP A recent report estimated that China will have 354 million online gamers by 2023, more than the entire US population. What are your thoughts on China’s gaming craze?

“Actually, I think playing LIU, 61 video games can have

young people. Some games cana positive stimulate influence their brains on and can help their devel- opment. The problems SUMMER EATS arise when there’s no Locals escape the heat to dine indoors control over how much with good company. they game. If they keep Photo by Instagram user @O_David_O playing without limits then health problems can arise for sure. The time spent playing games should not exceed two hours each time to protect the eyes, in particular. But in general, I believe video games can have a positive impact, when the child has to think about how to solve problems as they play. At my age, I really do not know much about the industry now, but I feel like a lot of games are coming from Japan nowadays and they seem to be having great success.”

WANG, 21 “My impression is that, for people born after the 90s, there is not much else to do. Especially young peo- ple, who are born in a mid- dle- or upper-class family, it is either that or going out to drink with friends. And that’s why the market for games has been growing so fast lately. It’s mostly the post-2000s generation that is driving it and games are so pervasive among that genera- HAPPILY NEVER AFTER

to be considered. I see people my age or younger constantly In late March, the Ministry of Civil Affairs ontion. their The phones, impact ofwhich gaming must on have health an isimpact definitely on their something social in China said that they will no longer be is- life. And in my generation playing two or three hours a day suing marriage licenses to couples where is a very common sight. Not to mention the amount of mon- both parties are foreigners. What does ey that some young people spend on games. In my opinion, this mean for expat lovebirds living in the it’s not just about health – it’s also about wasting money.” PRC? You’ll have to leave the country to tie the knot (pro tip: Hong Kong still issues marriage licenses regardless of national- As told to Edoardo Donati Fogliazza ity).

8 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY EDOARDO DONATI FOGLIAZZA / bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

“At work we emphasize the 11 liters … is the amount of alcohol consumed by men per year on aver- 996 spirit, and in age in China in 2017, while women consumed 3 liters. Close to 70% more alcohol was consumed in China in 2017 than in 1990, according to the Guardian. The sharp increase in Chinese life we want 669” boozing over the 27-year period is being cited as a major con- tributor to the 10% global increase in alcohol consumption per said Alibaba founder Jack Ma at the company’s annual mass capita over the same time period. Ganbei! wedding last month of over 100 participating couples, encourag- ing newlyweds to have sex ‘6 times in 6 days.’ Though after his controversial ‘996’ comment about the tech industry's demand- the time to enhance their love lives. ing work environment, we’re not sure how employees will find

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 9 CITY | FEATURE INSIGHTS INTO IMAGES Mark Leong Shares the Stories Behind His Stunning Photography intro by Matthew Bossons, images and captions by Mark Leong Fellowship, which allowed to him hop a behemoth that is China along the way. plane to China to spend a year exploring Some of the photos captured by Leong on from sunshine-soaked California, and photographing his ancestral homeland. his countrywide adventures eventually made Markfifth-generation Leong produces Chinese-American photographs A Since that first fateful visit to the Middle it into his 2004 book China Obscura, a col- that are immediately striking. His images Kingdom 30-plus years ago, Leong has been have been featured in a range of prestigious back numerous times, and spent around lesser-seen side of China at a time that now publications, including National Geographic, 25 years living in the country, most of that seemslection very of over distant. 150 photographs profiling a Time and Fortune, and for good reason: His time in Beijing. During his quarter-century This month, Leong has been gracious shots are both visually impressive and laced stint in the PRC, the photographer had the enough to share a selection of his work with with emotion. opportunity to visit every single Chinese us, and below each image, personal com- Leong graduated from Harvard in 1988

province, autonomous and special adminis- ments from the photographer himself. and was honored by the university with trative region, and snap shots of the diverse a George Peabody Gardner Traveling >

Xinjiang, 2001

Warriors of Heaven and Earth, which was like a western. During the long break“To shoot when a photo they were for a settingprofile upof actor or discussing , ideas, I traveled I would to go remote on walks Xinjiang, in the where desert he with was somefilming of the less busy crew members. I remember one of them telling me my North Face jacket was fake. I also remember the amazing little stones all over the ground. You can't see it in this black and white photo, but in the low afternoon light they looked like a million tiny, colorful spots – deep blues, burning reds, brilliant greens and glowing ambers. “I did get the picture I needed of Jiang, but, as with many photographic situations, I found the most interesting shot when turning away from my main subject. In this case, it was the death scene of one of his comrades, played by Harrison Liu, fetching a precious bladder of water before being pierced by bandits’ arrows.”

10 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

Shanghai, 1997 “I had been assigned by Wired to shoot general environmental pictures for a story about the early growth of the Chinese internet. I took a lot of photos explicitly about the subject – internet bars, piles of computers on shipping pallets, service provider companies, hackers at home, tech entrepreneurs on huge mobile phones and guys on sanlunche laden with monitors and printers in the Zhongguancun IT district. I also took random photos of everyday things like noodle shops and ear-cleaning spoons. In a taxi on the way to a tech company in Shanghai, I saw these men working on the pilings for the new elevated highway, told the > driver to pull over, jumped out into the street and shot about half a Beijing, 1997 roll of these guys, who happened to be beautifully arranged across the scaffolding. Again, not exactly on topic, but somewhat appropriate for a “This photo of uber-masculine winter swimmers at Houhai story that was ultimately titled ‘The Great Firewall of China.’”

is an example of what not to do in documentary photogra- > phy. Don’t arbitrarily tilt the frame. Don’t cut off a person’s face right at the eyes. Don’t have three people staring at the

If you are unable to avoid these things, don’t publish the photocamera, in includinga magazine.” one pointing his finger directly at you. >

Beijing, 2013

every spring near the supermarket on my street, carrying full-grown trees“When with I lived their in rootsthe suburbs packed of in Beijing, dirt and flatbed wrapped trucks in big would green appear mesh > bags, strangely shaped rocks the size of minivans and carefully Hong Kong, 2011 grafted decorative plants like this one. Everything was for sale. It was one of those situations I passed by maybe a hundred times before I - thought to bring my camera. To me it seemed like a surreal expres- cient Chinese culture organically mixed in with modern urban life.

sion of the human desire to displace and control nature.” > Once,“For a whencity profile I was ofphotographing Hong Kong, I fortunewould look tellers for on elements the street, of an a large group of photo enthusiasts also gathered around, speaking mainland Mandarin. We started chatting and they told me that this kind of tradi-

the border in Guangdong. The same goes for these small porcelain stat- uettestional activityof the goddess was very Kwun hard Yam to find (Cantonese in the mainland, for Guanyin), even justcemented across to

sailors safe at sea.” the salt-splashed rocks near Aberdeen> Harbor to keep fishermen and

Beijing, 2004 “As the 21st century began, the big socio-economic trend was the transition from mass export produc- tion to heavy domestic consumption, as the work- ing class became the middle class and demanded more consumer choice. As a longtime Beijing resi- dent, this was easily noticeable as more and better products became available, including international brands. Instead of two kinds of biscuits, there were 30. Packaging was much more attractive. Toilet pa- per made huge improvements.”

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 11

CITY | FEATURE >

Guangxi, 2015 “I usually work with a big, chunky Nikon DSLR, so it is liberating to sometimes shoot with my iPhone, as with this portrait of a Dong minority woman in Guangxi whose right hand, like many women in her village, was dyed blue from dipping cloth in vats of indigo all day. Almost all of my other shots were with her eyes open, but then she blinked and, of course, this is best one. When I posted this picture on my (rarely updated) Instagram account, I cropped off the bottom to make it square, not realizing that without her wrists in the frame it looks like it could be someone else’s hand. One imaginative commenter noted that she thought it

was a gorilla’s hand caressing the woman’s cheek, but

couldn’t understand why it was blue.” >

Shenzhen, 2010

the families from Sichuan living in this low row of buildings. Most“I first of visited the women the Shenzhen made Reebok urban athletic village ofshoes Wuwucun at the nearby in 2005, factory and met run

was surprised that these migrants were still there. Many had no intention ofby returningpeople from to SichuanTaiwan. anyWhen time I returned soon. The to biggest Wuwucun difference five years was later, that I they were now making New Balance shoes instead of Reebok. The kids ran in and out of each others’ tiny houses, which had cheap TV sets (saving for a real apartment) and homey touches like meat hanging from the ceiling. A young woman wore her best pink coat on her day off from the sneaker as- sembly line where her mother also worked.”

12 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

FEATURE | CITY >

Guangdong, 1990 “My mother’s father built this house in Guangdong’s Taishan county with his brothers before moving to Chicago for good in the 1920s. Taishan is known as the ‘Home of the Overseas Chinese.’ When I arrived back there more than 60 years later, my cousin held my hand as he walked me along the paths between the rice paddies and through the narrow lanes of the village. He showed me a cow purchased with money sent back from the States and introduced me to his grandfather, who never made it there. He burned incense and hell money to let the ancestors know I had returned. It was a strange experience when he led me into the house of an elderly woman (whose relation to my family I’m still not certain), and once my eyes adjusted to the dark, to see photos of my Chicago aunts and uncles scattered among the other pictures on her walls.”

Zhejiang, 2006 “Photography took me on many long road trips across China, in- > evitably driving through many places I had never heard of. The cab driver might say, ‘Oh, this is a small third- or fourth-tier city, with about two-and-a-half million people – which would be a top 10 city in the US, nearly twice the size of Dallas. To be sure, city popula-

a reminder about the incredible speed and scale of urban growth intions China. are Tofigured this end, differently I spent than a year in photographingthe States, but evenin one still, of theseit’s lower-tier cities on the rise: Lishui, a big producer of man-made leather, with a new train station, a high-speed freeway to Wenzhou and a McDonalds. “Who builds these infrastructure milestones? People like this migrant construction worker from Hunan, shown sleeping on the

boomtown circuit. They shared a tiny rented apartment that cost RMB120floor with per his month girlfriend, with whom four other he had guys met from at their Hunan. last Lishui’s stop on the building boom included a cinema, but they and other workers were much more likely to stay in the construction zone and watch

free outdoor screenings of action movies.” > Sichuan, 2003 “Peter Hessler’s classic 2001 memoir River Town covers his teaching days along the banks of the Yangtze at Fuling Teachers College. Four years after leaving Fuling in 1998, he returned to give a lecture at the college about his book, which had been reviewed recently in the Chinese press. He also wanted to observe the rapid modernization of the town, as well as see the area one more time before the imminent completion of Three Gorges Dam would submerge much of it in water, ultimately raising the river level 177 meters. He wrote about this visit in Time magazine. “I was lucky enough to be able to do the photographs for a number of Peter’s stories when he was reporting from China, including this one. Working with him was an incredible blessing, for the places and people he introduced me to and his keen insight into what he saw. It

most bland, non-visual situations that are impossible to photograph as wellwas alsoas he a writes.giant curse, Fuling, because however, he haswas the a great ability place to find for pictures,magic in boththe vibrant and peaceful. Any problems with images like these students reviewing English tapes are the photographer’s alone.”

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | GZ | 13 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 13 CITY | CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY

Is there anything more important in life are not good-looking and ‘hard-working’ if than one’s choice of a pop culture idol? In they have no talent. the age of pop culture ultra-consumerism, In addition to spinning shortcomings into the answer is no. Your fandom choices and virtues, caihongpi can also come in the form celebrity idols showcase your personality, of over-the-top compliments. Instead of “My serve as a powerful way to relate to others idol has beautiful eyes,” one might say “I wonder when the angel will come to my idol So it follows that once you’ve chosen an asking for those eyes back.” idol,and define you must you defend as a person. them at all costs. If To praise an idol’s looks, one can say “The their reputation falters, you could lose cred- biggest regret of my idol is that she can’t kiss ibility as a pop culture consumer – or, worse her own lips,” or “My idol is so gorgeous that yet, as a person. When your idol makes a he broke the camera,” or “The only person caihongpi / cǎi hóng pì / 彩虹屁 n. rainbow mistake or commits a social faux pas, you better looking than my idol tonight will be fart; over-the-top compliments fans needlessly need to know how to spin it into a success. my idol tomorrow night.” The more over-the- heap on their idols Any weaknesses they show must be present- top, the better the caihongpi is, and the sky ed in a positive light by you, their loyal fan. is the limit. Look at this gorgeous photo of Huang Xiaoming. Statements made to transform a celeb- Let’s face it – life is hard. We need idols rity’s questionable qualities into virtues are referred to as caihongpi. Literally translated passion. Caihongpi is just a way of expressing This is a picture of the back of his head. as ‘rainbow fart,’ the term is meant to imply thatbecause passion. they Don’tfill our let lives anything with intrigue bring your and idol (or you!) down, and pile the caihongpi smells like rainbows. (Do rainbows smell? on! Mia Li He is so good looking that the back of his that even your idol’s flatulence looks and head makes me cry. We leave that up to you to decide.) Common caihongpi include calling your idol ‘innocent’ if they lack experience, ‘truly talented’ if they That’s a good caihongpi.

ADVERTORIAL SUCH GREAT HEIGHTS Q&A With Chef Nathan Griffin of China World Summit Wing’s Grill 79

You came to the China World Summit You said you love to use local and seasonal Wing, Beijing after a long career at some produce to create your dishes. What can of the best culinary institutions in the UK. Grill 79’s customers expect from your What are some of the most important les- Beijing-based menu? sons you learned from your mentors? This time around, we’ll have to use at least The most important thing is to keep oneself some imported products, but we’ll try to lo- disciplined, and to maintain the drive and cally source basic things like vegetables. I was very much impressed by the quality of ingre- can be disciplined, everything else comes dients that can be found here. Talking about degustation experience. Grill 79’s wine of- easy.passion that is necessary in this field. If you recipes, we have to keep in mind that this is ferings are really outstanding, and this is the a Western restaurant by design. Nonetheless, best way to showcase that. During your time at Shangri-La Sydney, we take into consideration what the palate you took Altitude restaurant from one to of the locals is like. We’ll stay low on cheese, Now, a tricky question: Perched 79 floors three ‘hats’ in Australia’s renowned Good and go a bit sweeter and spicier. We’re also above Beijing’s CBD, the view at Grill 79 is Food Guide. What are your plans for Grill working on a duck dish that clearly connects one of its signature features. In your opin- 79? to classic Beijing cuisine, but with a twist – it ion, which restaurant has the best view, might involve cherries. Shangri-La Sydney’s Altitude or China I want people to talk about this restaurant World Summit Wing, Beijing’s Grill 79? more, and to bring in even more customers. Grill 79 boasts an extensive collection I’m looking at people who understand good I knew this one was coming! The view in of cellared wines. When you approach a food, because they are the ones who can help Sydney was quite spectacular, for sure, but I recipe, do you also consider what wine spread the word. And, of course, to win an really cannot choose one. Beijing is also an will pair with it the best? award here would be great! Right now, I can incredible city, and the view of the CBD is say a new a la carte menu will be unveiled Yes, I work together with our in-house som- unique, especially during the evening when soon. I also want the customers to have fun, melier to devise a wine menu that pairs well the city lights up. Ultimately, I would say Grill so we’ll devise offerings like a Caesar salad with the dishes. It is, in this sense, a con- 79 has the best view. From Altitude, you only trolley to allow everyone to make their own certed effort. I always have the sommelier enjoy one view of the harbor, while from our mix. try every dish beforehand, so he can have an restaurant you can see many different angles idea of what will work best. We are also plan- of the CBD. The view will always be different ning to introduce a cheese trolley and a wine depending on where you seat.

14 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CITY SCENES

Oakwood Apartments Sanya announced the summer opening of the island The exhibition born from the collaboration between ONE INDIGO and gal- SUCH GREAT HEIGHTS city’s first international serviced apartment complex. Judging from the render- lery brand Carré D’Artistes is currently underway on the ground floor of ONE ings, they’re set to be the sensible traveler’s best choice when traveling to INDIGO office building, featuring more than 40 artworks from around the Q&A With Chef Nathan Griffin of China World Summit Wing’s Grill 79 Hainan. world.

Where might the eggs be hiding? Behind this statue perhaps? An Easter egg House of Knowledge Shunyi, Chaoyang Park and Xinglong campuses each held hunt was only one of the activities more than 30 families could enjoy together their fantastic Easter picnics recently. In the beautiful spring air, the children at the Beijing Marriott Executive Apartments this Easter, together with a rich and parents participated in lots of fun Easter games while enjoying some spe- themed brunch. cial time together.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 15 LIFE & STYLE

JOURNEY TO CHENGDU What to see, do and eat in Sichuan province's capital city, p22

Dragon Boat Legos Cabana Funky Facekinis p18 p19 p20 SPOTLIGHT 17 - WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Visit dongxie.com, WeChat ID: cobblerssugest to find out more. is arranged to send your items to a repair a repair to items send your to is arranged is com the process Within 15 days center. shoes sent back. and your pleted, dog heels that my a pair of Prada I have help me fix them? you can up, chewed have help. We to love would Of course, we as this listed like problems just for a service under ‘special of major wounds’ ‘renovation on our app. repair’ is the most difficult to What shoe material salvage? they when tricky Satin and suede can be very fix when to tough and also very get dirty, that you recommend We scratches. are there going out in before report the weather watch wear suede, and don’t shoes made of satin or roads. them on bumpy your and for you step What’s the next this honor? receiving after company awareness increase it to leverage to want We business- win more service and to about our experience clients. The entire to-business From is nothing but inspiring. with CWIA mentors sisters, 20 wonderful on, I have now as a network talk with as well and friends to management,for consulting and fundraising the company. growing helpful for that is very - - - - their livelihood, they can focus on the quality” “When cobblers no longer need to worry to need “When longer about no cobblers ing app where you identify the problem, and identify the problem, you ing app where service Next, pickup accordingly. place orders aging sustainable consumption. When we aging sustainable consumption. When we craftsmanship, protect set out to we started, and saved are products and along the way, of waste landfill. In terms from away kept are instead and recycling management, repairing choice. is a much better of replacing is a pair of shoes, what repair to If I want like? the process WeChat our follow is to process The standard order our can go to account, and then you Why is that important to you? to is that important Why do, and the only thing to the right it was I felt Suggest work. Cobbler’s thing that can make which gal, is as an advertising My background A strong dealing with a brand. means usually and cul the product by is determined brand Suggest, Cobbler’s For of the company. ture and the is the quality of repair, our product craftsmanship, is our attitude toward culture in the artisans we rooted areboth and they with us full time, work them to hire We have. and insur benefits packages with a salary, worry ance. When cobblers no longer need to on the can focus they about their livelihood, quality of their work. of benefits What about the environmental service? your a side benefit of encour that’s actually Well, - - - , she drew

consumption behavior. consumption behavior. these artisans and encourage sustainable these artisans and encourage are lost. Our services provide stable jobs to stable jobs to lost.are Our services provide the city, the industry and the craftsmanship the industry and the craftsmanship the city, If cobblers are unemployed or pushed out of or unemployed If cobblers are running a small shop in major cities is dying. cities is dying. running a small shop in major products. The traditional model of artisans The traditional products. We are in it to save the industry and the save in it to are We What is your social mission? What is your through Cobbler’s Suggest.” Suggest.” Cobbler’s through great craftsmen by fixing shoes and bags by craftsmen great craftsmen, but today I believe we can become we I believe but today craftsmen, believed that Swiss watchmakers are great great are watchmakers that Swiss believed he told a CCTV reporter, “Before people only people only “Before reporter, a CCTV he told lacked confidence. After one year with us, year one confidence. After lacked us with excellent skills, but he was shy and shy was skills, but he us with excellent example, our head of craftsmanship came to came to our head of craftsmanship example, change to the artisans that work with us. For with us. For the artisans that work change to up and recognition from the public is a reas from up and recognition with some means starting The 'ripple effect' as a simple idea that brought began er on. We work going forward, because we are a start- are because we going forward, work business? impact lat greater thing small that generates It’s also great motivation to keep up the good keep to motivation It’s also great your that applies to us how tell you – can and is a reminder of how far we have come. have we far how of and is a reminder ‘The Ripple Effect’ theme was This year’s honored to be selected as it carries credibility credibility as it carries be selected to honored thing. doing the right are that we surance Thank you very much! I am very grateful and grateful I am very much! very Thank you of the laureate community? of the laureate go through the process and become part become and the process go through pair of heels. to like the CWIA 2019. What has it been work and find out how to repair our favorite for as a finalist 2,900 applicants among this year. caught We up with her to discuss her from selected being on Congratulations Awards (CWIA) who named her as a finalist attention of the Cartier Initiative Women’s and social benefits of her startup caught the pairs shoes. of women’s The environmental repaired over 2,000 pairs and 13,000 of men’s business in 2016, Cobbler’s Suggest has leather goods. Since founding her unique service that repairs shoes, bags and other to find a dependable cobbler shop personal and delivery with app problem an rough concrete streets. When she struggled on her marketing background to solve this of shoes while running around Shanghai’s Entrepreneur Claire damaged Yan a lot of pairs

Founder of Cobbler’s Suggest of Cobbler’s Founder Ng Cristina by CLAIRE YAN STYLE RADAR

UNDER THE LENS Out of Style

Chinese website announced that the retailerAt the end would of April, be ceasing Forever its 21’s online operations. Shortly after, Tmall and JD.com released statements that the afford- able, trend-savvy clothing store would also be taken off their respective COVET platforms. Forever 21’s decision to pull out of the online retail market Dragon Boat Lego Set its current “marketing strategy” and Everyone’s favorite boat-focused festival is getting the Lego treatment in the Danish toy com- “brandin China positioning” was directly within influenced China, by ac - images leaked by a Macau-based toy shop, feature dragon boats, racers, a spectator stand and news, worries of possible brick-and- evenpany’s a zongzilatest bid to appeal to Chinese consumers. The new sets, which were first revealed in mortarcording store to Sina closures Financial. came After – and the year the toy manufacturer released a Chinese New Year set. Back in 2018, Lego also released a with good reason, as Forever 21 had very impressive stall. Great This Wall is not of Chinathe first set. time Lego has released China-themed sets; earlier this already closed several of its stores in cities like Tianjin, and > lego.com/zh-cn Beijing at the end of last year.

OVERHEARD “Every year after I watch the Met Gala, I lament that I know nothing about fashion”

… writes one Weibo user after seeing the extreme getups donned by fashion icons like Lady

in New York. The theme at this year’s biggest fashion event was ‘Camp: Notes on Fashion’ – an odeGaga to last exaggeration month at the and glamorous the unnatural fundraiser – which held worried annually Chinese for the netizens Metropolitan after disappointing Museum of Art attempts were made by Chinese invitees to embody 2018’s imaginative concept of Catholicism. This time, Chinese guests included vocalist Li Yuchun, singer-songwriter Lay Zhang and super- model Liu Wen, who did not disappoint, serving more daring looks to match the ambiguous theme.

18 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY VALERIE OSIPOV / [email protected]

SCENE&HEARD CABANA Welcome Taikoo Li North’s newest import: Cabana. No, we’re not talking about a secluded tropical beach hut, where the frosty piña coladas are bottomless and the golden sunshine gleams generously (though, we totally wish we were). This Cabana is a design- forward furniture store and in short, it’s a quirky minimalist’s mecca. The interior setup looks like a luxe apartment begging to act as the backdrop for a Vogue ‘73 Questions With…’ episode. Tastefully decked out with everything from funky ceramic vases and cracked glasses (on purpose) to abstract chairs and incredibly chic rugs that you wouldn’t dare step

handful of customers at one time. Speaking of chairs, whenon, the we daylight-soaked visit, the luxe showroomspace is only is hostingfit for a smallan exhi - bition all about the history of revolutionary designer

hereseats and at their is bound gallery to and event space one floor up. stirThe upall-too-trendy interest from concept is in its most fitting home Sanlitun’s social elite looking to furnish their ritzy apartments.

> Daily, 10am-9.30pm; N7, 3F Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区三里屯路11号院三里屯太 古里北区N7楼3层

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 19 LIFE & STYLE | FASHION

Aloha RMB63.80 Peacock Feathers jd.com RMB137.5 facekini.com Amoeba RMB137.5 Butterfly facekini.com RMB50.88 taobao.com

That scorching summer sun is Eight of the Hottest unforgiving – face the heat in style with Facekinis for Summer these trendy swim masks, which went viral on Chinese beaches in summers past. compiled by Valerie Osipov

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20 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Aloha RMB63.80 jd.com

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 21 LIFE & STYLE | FEATURE

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO CHENGDU Make the Most of Your Trip to China’s Gateway to the West

gateway to China’s expansive West, up branches, and the city is quickly becom- cuisine. An experience not to be missed is with a population of 10 million ing more relevant on the international stage. , which combines dancing, AChengdu is a major economic and Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport miming, singing and the popular face-chang- transit hub for the country. It also serves as has even been named one of the 30 busiest ing masks. a smooth entry point into scenic Sichuan airports in the world, while a new and even The people of Chengdu take food very province. larger airport is scheduled to open in 2020. seriously and the city was named a UNESCO Dating back over 4,000 years, Chengdu For tourists, there’s no shortage of sites City of Gastronomy in 2010. The signature is the only major city in China that has kept in Chengdu. From fascinating museums to aroma and flavor of Sichuan’s spicy dishes its original name and location throughout extensive Taoist temples, the city is full of – many of which are cooked with Sichuan history. It served as the capital of China for a things to see and do. Perhaps one of the peppercorn – can be found at every corner short period after the fall of in 1937. most popular sites, drawing in crowds from of the city. While it’s not as well-known as metropolises around the world, is the giant panda sanc- Here are our recommendations for dishes like Beijing or Shanghai to those from out- tuary, where you can see these peaceful to eat, sites to see and things to do in this side of China, Chengdu is one of the most creatures interact in a natural conservation ever-growing city. And heck, if Chengdu isn’t bustling and rapidly growing cities in the center. enough for you, we’ve thrown in a guide to country. Chengdu is the epicenter of culture in National Park for good measure! In recent years, Chengdu has attracted the West, encompassing the best that the hundreds of Fortune 500 companies to set area has to offer in both entertainment and

22 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | LIFE & STYLE CHENGDU

Jinli Pedestrian Street Some might consider this street, which mashes to- gether historic architecture and antique offerings with hotels, bars, restaurants and more, a tourist trap. Others would counter that it’s fun, not to mention photogenic. Stroll through narrow alleys that remain brightly lit throughout the night; pick from skewered, steamed or fried street food; visit Wuhouci Ancestral Temple (RMB60 entry); or shop for ancient-looking souvenirs – Jinli has it all. There’s even nightlife to be had, if you don’t mind entering garishly neon-lit pavil- Chengdu Panda Research Base ion buildings to find it. Do keep in mind that the street This might not be the only place to see pandas in the world, gets packed over weekends and holidays, however, so but it’s certainly the largest and arguably the best: visitors can schedule accordingly. view a collective 60 or so bears at closer ranges than would be possible elsewhere. While pandas are China’s national symbol, these creatures are actually only native to Sichuan, Gansu and Shaanxi provinces. Just 10 kilometers from downtown, this con- servatory recreates the natural habitat of this vulnerable species in which to live and breed, including a beautiful bamboo forest with over 10,000 bamboo trees to meet the pandas’ dietary needs. Visitors get to watch these massive cuddly animals from a safe distance as they lounge and play with one another. If you’re lucky, you may even get to see newborn baby pandas too. There is also a museum, research laboratory and training center to check out.

Sichuan Opera An evening of watching brightly costumed performers ‘face- change’ and breathe fire is often scheduled into tours in Sichuan. If you’re striking out on your own, Shufeng Yayun is a local favorite for not only opera, but also tea, handicrafts and a show- case of other traditional entertainment, like shadow puppetry. Another popular spot is the evocatively named ‘wide and narrow alleys’ neighborhood, which has a dedicated subway station on Line 4. Teahouse-theater Xilai Shuyun Yuan is here, as are a wide array of bars and restaurants for after-show snacking.

Leshan Giant Buddha Although the Giant Buddha is about 120 kilometers outside of the capital of Sichuan, it is still a must-see tourist site when visiting Chengdu – especially since the Chengdu-Leshan Highway and passenger rail ser- vices offer convenient transportation options for visitors. The is the largest stone Buddha in the world, and was built between 713-803 CE. The 71-meter-tall statue depicts Maitreya and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, along with the Scenic Area. If you’re not in the mood to wait in line with the crowds to see stat- ues, visit one of the nearby water taxi stations on the road and they will be able to take you out on the water to see the site from a farther distance.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 23 Destination

Jiuzhaigou

In 1992, Jiuzhaigou was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it’s not hard to see why. Named after the nine Tibetan villages it encompasses, the area is packed with eerily- colorful, natural waterscapes and lush forests. In autumn, when the trees turn red and gold, tourists flood the region to near-capacity, making hotel and flight bookings difficult. Thankfully, Jiuzhaigou’s massive popularity means that tours – English-speaking ones park doesn’t allow visitors to camp, trails do lead to boot – are widely available over the rest through all of the valleys. If you set out early and of the year. Whether or not you hire a guide, buy a bus pass, you can traverse either Shuzheng though, getting rides on a sightseeing bus and Zechawa or Rize alone (an 18-kilometer trail) (around RMB90 for a day pass) will ease in six to seven hours, bussing it back to the en- How to Get There your trip around the area’s 100 or so pools trance before the park closes at 6pm. and five major waterfalls. Be sure to time your trip carefully, as the park Buses leave from Xinnanmen The Jiuzhaigou area is made up of three opens at 8am during the off-season (November 16 (RMB138) and Chadianzi stations interlinked valleys: Shuzheng, Rize and – March 31), an hour later than peak season times. (RMB123) in Chengdu, but take Zechawa. Shuzheng hosts many of the park’s Ticket prices are much more reasonable, however, roughly eight hours. Eight-and-a-half- main attractions, including a 300-meter-wide costing only RMB90 for a two-day pass compared hour buses (RMB98) also leave from waterfall and 19 multicolored, terraced lakes. to RMB220 per day in the summer and fall. Panda Base, where elderly Rize, known for being a natural habitat for If you’re planning to spend three or more days in and sick pandas are cared for. Planes pandas (although sightings are rare), boasts the area, you may also want to allot a half-day or from Chengdu to Jiuzhai Huanglong a pool surrounded by bamboo, while high- more for Huanglong National Park, only a couple Airport are only one hour, but buses altitude Zechawa is home to the vivid ‘Five- hours’ bus ride away and also boasting pretty lakes to Jiuzhaigou (RMB45 one-way) take Colored Lake.’ and waterfalls. Like Jiuzhaigou, prices are also an additional hour. Prices vary but are It’s a lot to take in, which is why some much more reasonable during the offseason, cost- generally upwards of RMB1,000. opt to take it slow by hiking: although the ing RMB60 versus RMB200.

Rate includes: •Luxurious accommodation •Daily breakfast •25% off food in all outlets, Luxury, Relaxation and suites, which range in size from 45 to 200 square excluding room service meters. With fashion-inspired interiors by leading Tons of Perks at Niccolo designers, featuring natural textiles and leathers in •Late check-out until 3pm, subtle earth tones, there’s an understated sophisti- subject to hotel availability Chengdu cation to all guestrooms. •IFS One Day Pass Package Wake up each morning to a bountiful breakfast Looking for an exclusive and luxurious stay in (per room per stay) at the stylish Niccolo Kitchen restaurant, before hit- Chengdu? Then look further than Niccolo Chengdu. ting IFS for a shopping spree. All guests can enjoy Located at Chengdu’s celebrated International Booking Period: a one-day pass to enjoy discounts at a number of Finance Square (IFS), a highly desirable and fashion- now till August 31, 2019 designated stores, as well as free panda shuttle bus able address within Chunxi Road Business District, Reservation: +86 28 82208888 service to some of Chengdu’s hottest tourist spots. Niccolo’s prime real estate allows guests to effort- Location: Tower 3, IFS, No.1, Cap off an eventful day on the town by pamper- lessly travel to all of the city’s hottest spots, and Section 3, Hongxing Road, Jinjiang ing yourself at one of the hotel’s four elegant dining even destinations further afield. District, Chengdu, Sichuan 610021, venues. Seasoned and discerning travelers will be wowed China by the hotel’s 230 spacious and chic guestrooms and > www.niccolohotels.com

24 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CHENGDU

Meat and Vegetable Skewers in Chili Oil This hotpot-like street food snack isn’t for the faint of stomach. Diners choose various skewered meats and vegetables to be cooked in a broth that’s heavy on oil and laden with mouth-numbing spices. Once done, they can be dipped in even more flavoring – a dry mix of peanuts, chili powder and cilantro are preferred – or eaten as is.

Dry-fried Green Beans Restaurants all over China and the world fea- ture this vegetable dish on their menus, but not all do it right. To reach the proper level of crispness, the beans are first thoroughly dried, then tossed in a wok with numbing Sichuan peppercorns, dried chilies and morsels of meat. The result isn’t always pretty, but lip-smacking spice and the unique crunchy texture more than make up for it.

Laomatou Hot Pot Chen Mapo Tofu Looking for more expert Looking for death by slow-burning chili heat? If you’re a fan of this mouth-numbing crowd- guides to China’s biggest This popular chain specializes in it. Select pleaser, you’ll want to pay homage at the cities and hottest destina- slices of beef, goose, seafood and more to shop where it (allegedly) all started. True or tions? Scan the QR code dip in a simmering pot of concentrated spice, not, the story of the ‘pockmarked granny’ now to purchase our Explore similar to the skewers mentioned above. behind the dish has made the Chen chain China travel guide, which of- The main differences is, at an average of famous, a reputation it’s upheld with taste- fers insider tips, detailed city RMB100 a meal, the hot pot edition not only bud-kicking pride. There are no medium- guides and awesome has better-quality ingredients but is also less spicy morsels to be found here; instead, tofu, day trips. likely to result in a frantic run to the toilet. ground beef and leeks are drenched in a Plus, if your courage fails you, Laomatou of- hot, oily broth and then sprinkled with more fers a ‘yin yang’ hot pot with both peppery numbing pepper. The chain’s milder gongbao and non-spicy soup. chicken is another popular pick, as are the Sichuan-style dandanmian. > 2/F, 51 Hongxing Lu Section Four, Jinjiang District 锦江区红星路四段51号二楼 (028-8666 6920) > #10-12, 10 Qinghua Lu, Qingyang District 青羊区 青华路10号附10-12号 (028-8731 7216, 028-8731 5047)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 25 ARTS

OFF SCREEN Some of China's influential independent film directors, p30

New Movies Fujiya & Miyagi Online Radio p28 p34 p36 DRUMROLL 27 - - s Soundcloud at soundcloud. ’ WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ally wanted to sing over a guitar, and Darcy and Darcy a guitar, sing over to wanted ally so I just good guitar melody, a pretty can play it. over voice put my Check out Bloodz Boi accounts. Now I want to try some new trap some new trap try to I want accounts. Now that’s a side project, so I music. With Darcy, op more do that once I have think I can only music. portunities with trap ago that you a while Twitter said on You that you tracks a lot of unreleased have the EP and have You drop. to waiting are us more tell you Can the way. album on about those? It’s The EP is almost done. It’s me and YVNCC. The music is trap. experimental kind of like I think. weird is totally but the melody trap, The EP will do something fresh. tried to We still deciding on six songs, and we’re have is an indie the name. The album with Darcy six or eight album. It will have shoegaze rock, the album before a track release songs. We’ll for on the single working comes out. We’re I’m side project. That’s my the album now. music a lot and I re rock also influenced by com/bloodzboi4life - - ent styles. You make trap, emo rap, dance emo rap, trap, make You styles. ent a drop to now plans have you hall and do How Baylis. album with Darcy shoegaze release? of music you choose the style you know I don’t now. confused right I am very a lot of producers I should do. I have what with me, people I getting in touch are who my produce to want would thought never different make music. All of these producers I can sing; I can rap kinds of music, though. me, to type of beat. It’s a problem on every emo rapper, be an to want because I don’t in My followers styles. find more to I want me as an know that so much, they love China all of delete to and I almost want emo rapper, Xiami or Netease my songs from emo rap my Right now underground electronic music electronic underground now Right is strug- but DIY rap is getting stronger, think that is? do you gling. Why culture. an underground have doesn’t China it’s just people underground, It’s not the real f*cking music, I can say my I create around. but rap, that I’m the king of underground The Weibo? on can I get, followers what more listeners me, and my like doesn't mainstream show. my go to to tickets for pay to want don’t a lot of differ followed have releases Your -

RMB100 to go to a festival to see me. to a festival go to RMB100 to not an idol, I don’t have fans who can pay can pay who fans have not an idol, I don’t your ideas, blah blah blah. And because I am your of those events need to check your lyrics, lyrics, check your need to of those events like a music festival, because the organizers because the organizers a music festival, like that. I think I’ll never perform at something perform that. I think I’ll never I never wanted to be fake; I don’t f*ck I don’t be fake; to with wanted I never much more difficult is it to operate? difficult is it to much more As a heavily tattooed rapper in China, how how China, in rapper tattooed As a heavily of S!LK. didn’t have as much time to spend on pro as much time to have didn’t Puzzy Stack is 100% in charge now, But right When I began to focus more on my music, I on my more focus to When I began book that artist in Beijing. to and he will try is a really famous underground DJ in China. DJ in China. underground famous is a really him an artist to sometimes I’ll recommend He is DJing and promoting and right now he now and right is DJing and promoting He in music, and the same taste and Puzzy have music scene and he’s doing really well now. now. well music scene and he’s doing really Me or booking artists anymore. moting shows were kids. I told him about this underground about this underground him kids. I told were Me and Puzzy have been friends since we been friends since we Me and Puzzy have these days? these days? much involvement do you have with S!LK with have do you much involvement whom you founded S!LK club nights. How How S!LK club nights. founded you whom be hearingbe more of. with bass scene, underground Beijing far off in the fture, Bloodz Boi is a name you will certainly the came up with Puzzy Stack in You album with Australian musician Darcy Baylis also not too set to drop in the coming months, and a shoegaze indie Weibo, has been off the charts. With an EP with YVNCC Boi’s social media presence, on sites like Twitter and of Chinese rap music behind and move to the US, Bloodz happy. With a distant plan to leave the commercial plains trying out a multitude of new styles, Bloodz Boi is far from of Organ Tapes, Darcy Baylis, YVNCC and Mixed Matches, around the world. While he has teamed up with the likes tracks that have captured the attention of listeners rapper and vocalist Bloodz Boi has dropped a series of In just the past six months, Beijing-based underground by Bryan Grogan Bryan by Bloodz Boi BaresBloodz his Bones SPOTLIGHT COLLAGE

COMING SOON TRANSCRIBED “I am really very hungry Big Brother Wu. When will you open the noodle house?” That’s what Rocket Girls 101 member Yang Chaoyue commented beneath a video of Kris Wu’s performance in Beijing, as part of his JUNE Alive Tour last month. Referencing Wu’s recent song release, ‘Big Bowl Noodle Soup,’ 6 fans of the pair of popstars were delighted when Wu responded, telling Yang “I’ll invite you to eat when it’s open.” Pretty innocent, right? Well, fans on Weibo quickly began to Dark Phoenix hypothesize about whether the duo are now a couple, causing much delight and gossip Sophie Turner, or Sansa Stark as viewers may online in the ensuing hours. know her, returns to our screens this month, hot on the heels of the last-ever episode of Game of Thrones X-Men series sees Turner once again take on the role of Jean Grey, but with. Thisa twist latest this film time. in Affected the by a solar

Phoenix, an uncontrollably corrupt alter ego. Hao flare in outer space, Jean Grey becomes Dark

A total of seven Chinese films were shown Festival.during the Among Tribeca the Film Tribeca Festival Film and Festival five in- clusionsChinese filmswas A were Kid From shown Coney at Cannes Island Film, a US/ China co-production which tells the story of former New York Knicks and Beijing Ducks basketball star, Stephon Marbury. Much anticipated among the Cannes Film Festival inclusions was ’s The Wild Goose Lake, which transports viewers in a noirish re-imagining of South China. JUNE 14 Men in Black: International Bu Hao A movie theater in Lishui, province The Men in Black franchise gets a spinoff this showed moviegoers images of folks from month with Thor’s Chris Hemsworth and Tessa the city's Liandu district who had been Thompson joining the fray to lead the cast of this blacklisted for avoiding debt repayment, according to What’s on Weibo. The ‘trailer’ turn to the London division of the international latest film in the series, which sees our sights was shown before a screening of the hugely successful Avengers: End Game, and also attacks, the pair are forced to travel all over the informed the audience of what unfortunate globealien-fighting searching organization. for the culprits. After a series of alien blacklisted citizens can expect, including being banned from traveling by air or by high-speed train. Around 300 people out of 5,478 on the blacklist have been shown on cinema screens, public LED screens and on buildings, with 80 of the 300 subsequently complying with the court.

28 | MAY 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY BRYAN GROGAN / bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

SINO CELEB

Yue Yunpeng Yue Yunpeng could be comparable to American funnyman The Hangover star, Yue Yunpeng began his career as a comedian, before going on to host TV Zach Galifianakis. Much like , or Chinese crosstalk performer, Yue has garnered a legion of followersshows and with star his in blockbusterdistinctive and films. peculiar As a style, oftentimes portraying illiterate and somewhat idiotic characters. Here,

we give you five fast facts about Yue Yunpeng.

A Rough Start Fame didn’t come overnight for Yue. He start- ed his working life at the tender age of 14,

becoming a welder and then a dishwasher andfirst waiterworking at asa noodle a doorman restaurant. in Beijing, before

‘Little Yueyue’ WHAT’S NEW Affectionately referred to as ‘Little Yueyue,’

Yue began his Chinese crosstalk career in 2005. While establishing himself in the Chinese stage tradition, he initially partici- pated in productions that targeted younger audiences.

The Song of the Fifth Ring Yue’s rendition of this popular Chinese song is ridiculous, for lack of a better term, but people absolutely love it. Titled ‘The Song of the Fifth Ring,’ it features such memorable lines as, “Ah… Fifth Ring, you’re one ring more than the Fourth Ring; Ah… Fifth Ring, you’re one ring less than the Sixth Ring.”

iQiyi CEO Yu told CNBC that the successful streaming Chinese SNL Host company will spend the next 2-3 years focusing on creating Last June, Saturday Night Live got a Chinese makeover, broadcasting on Youku for 10 epi- original movies like Roma and Bird Box, iQiyi wants the leading moviesoriginal on film its content. website Just to be as made Netflix internally. has seen While success this with does Chinese SNL was well-received by audiences, whosodes. LOL’d Co-hosted at his wittyby Yue, jabs the and first punch season lines. of the continued evolution of China’s movie market. represent the potential for a larger profit margin, it also shows

A Penny Pincher In an interview published two years ago, Yue portrayed himself as “a small star from a ru- ral village,” when explaining why he is often seen in casual clothing. “After leading a hard life for a long time, I hate to part with my money, because I know it’s hard to earn it.”

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 29 ARTS | MUSIC 10 AWESOME INDIE FILMMAKERS IN

CHINA by Bryan Grogan

t’s no secret that China mega-blockbusters, but stories that offer a booming. While the Middle Kingdom is varied view of life around the world. Icurrently contributing ’sto film some business tremen is- China itself has never been a country bereft of cinematic talent. As directors from like the Avengers series, young and upcom- such diverse parts of the country as Inner dously large profits of major blockbusters Mongolia, and Shaanxi ply their making their mark both internally and trade, they have helped to shine a lot on the arounding independent the world filmmakers at festivals havelike Cannes, also been stories that make up the lives of minorities Tribeca, Berlin Film Festival and plenty of in these lesser-seen and lesser-heard-from others. areas. Alongside this running trend, point to As such it is tremendously hard to narrow Roma and Capernaum, this list down to just 10 people, and it does as well as Bohemian Rhapsody (brought to not by any stretch capture the 10 best direc- Chinaincoming by the films National like Alliance of Arthouse tors in the country because, you know, that’s Cinemas) and we can see that China’s ap- subjective. But here’s 10 we recommend you petite for cinema has become much more check out.

diverse. It’s not just superhero films and Bi Gan Director of one of our favorite controversial Long Day’s Journey Into Night, Bi Gan has thus far brought viewers on deeply beautifulfilms of the visual year, journeys through his home province, Guizhou, while also shining a light on ethnic minorities that populates cities like Bi’s hometown, Kaili. Bi has become known for his dreamy, extended single-shot takes and his preoccupation with depictions of dreams, as seen in Kaili Blues and later Long Day’s Journey. While the latter was featured in the Un Certain Regard section at the 71st Cannes Film Festival in 2018, Kaili Blues earned Bi the award for Best New Director at the prestigious Golden Horse Awards in 2015.

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Diao Yinan

Wild Goose Lake, appeared at this year’s Cannes Film Festival.Diao Yinan’s The fourthShaanxi feature director film, focuses the much-anticipated on the less-docu - mented factions of Chinese society, this time on a mem- ber of a biker gang in South China. Diao takes viewers into a neon-lit, pitch-dark heart of southern darkness. Diao teamed up with Vivian Qu, who acted as producer, Black Coal, Thin Ice, which is set in the extreme north of China, in Heilongjiang, where detectiveson his previous come film, across dismembered body parts in coal shipments.

Vivian Qu Born and raised in Beijing, Vivian Qu moved to New York in

made a name for herself as a director and producer, with two directorialthe 90s where credits she tostudied her name, art, history Trap Street and fineand arts.Angels She Wear has White, both of which were made in and ap- Trap Street, focuses on a map-maker in South China trying to track downpeared a atwoman the Venice using International a network of FilmCCTV Festival. cameras The that first, he has installed, while the second, Angels Wear White, again takes a critical look at the use of surveillance cameras, this time as used to record a crime.

Lisa Zi Xiang A Dog Barking at the Moon, Lisa Zi Xiang focuses on women who have unwittingly thisIn her year debut at the feature Inside film, Out Toronto LGBT Film Festival, alongside the likes of an adaptation of Armistead Maupin’smarried gay seminal men, Talesand the of theemotional City by falloutAlan Poul, that A results Dog Barking when theyat the find Moon out also these received marital a secrets. special Showingjury prize daughter’s efforts to encourage her mismatched parents to get a divorce. earlier this year at the Berlin Film Festival. The title of the film is a poetic reference to the pointlessness of a

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 31 ARTS | MUSIC

Zhang Dalei Summer is Gone, is shot in black and white and centers around a youngZhang boyDalei’s growing debut up feature in a town film, in Inner Mongolia.

alongside the epistemological narrative and the ever-changingThe nostalgic nature nature of of this society filming in China technique, won Zhang set

for best feature at the Golden Horse Awards in 2016. Stayinga lot of fans, with andthe themealso saw of theseasons, film pick Zhang's up the follow- award up In Winter follows a man who is saved by his friends after a suicide attempt, later deciding to go in search of his ex-girlfriend after an encounter with a Russian singer in a bar.

Xin Yukun After the release of 2014’s The Coffin in the Mountain full-length feature, the director garnered a ton of fans around the world, and positioned himself as one of the leading voices of, China’sXin Yukun’s new firstcin- ematic generation. The Coffin in the Mountain picked up awards at China’s own arthouse awards – FIRST International Film Festival – as well as at the Venice International Film Festival and the Warsaw Film Festival. He followed that up with The Wrath of Silence, an intriguing story of a mute father searching for his missing child, a sheepherder in North China.

Cai Chengjie The Widowed Witch - lease, caused quite a stir when it was released in 2018, marking this young ,director’s Cai Chengjie’s arrival first on full-length the scene withre

thrice-widowed woman, who is thought to be cursed by thea film town that locals, was praised rebrand for herself its intriguing as a shaman plot. inIt seesNorth a China. The Widowed Witch snagged an award at the Rotterdam Film Festival, and marked Cai Chengjie as - ny and quirky storylines that comment on China today. one to watch with a real flair for crafting intelligent, fun

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Chloe Zhao While Beijinger Chloe Zhao is now working on the The Eternals, she Wei Shujun began her career making successful American indies Wei Shujun made his Cannes debut in 2018 with On likeundeniably Songs My not-indie Brother filmTaught Marvel’s Me and The Rider. The The Border, a short that clocked in at about 15 minutes. 37-year-old stands apart from other directors on this

The film focuses on a North Korean teen who decides list, as all of her feature films have been rooted firmly feature, Songs My Brother Taught Me, revolves around to leave his town but must find his father to ask for ain Native the US, American where she ranch studied in South film production. Dakota and Hermade first inmoney 2018, for Wei his has trip. been One hailed of two as short one offilm the directors most excit from- appearances at Cannes, as well as being nominated China, alongside Shen Di, to appear at the film festival for Independent Spirit Awards. years. His previous feature, Duck Neck, debuted at the Busaning young Film filmmakers Festival, and to withcome a out much of China more insubstantial recent 93-minute timeline for viewers to work with.

Lhapal Gyal Tibetan director Lhapal Gyal is another on this list whose work shines a light on the lives of minorities living in Greater China. He Wangdrak’s Rain Boots, to the Berlin Film Festival last year and received resounding applause frombrought the his audience. first full-length Born in Qinghai,feature film, and having studied at the Beijing Film Academy, Lhapal Gyal is one of a number of Tibetan directors who are receiving praise for their depictions of how life is changing for people in the mountainous Southwest region, while also helping to make and maintain a record of Tibetan culture.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 33 ARTS | MUSIC FUTURE DAYS

Fujiya & Miyagi Talk How the Music Biz Has Changed Their Sound and Their Lives by Bryan Grogan

n interesting theory that came out unfortunately.” after the release of playfully named As with many a group who dared to ABrighton band Fujiya & Miyagi’s shake their sound up, Fujiya & Miyagi found most famous album, Transparent Things, themselves in the critics’ crosshairs. While suggests that the band’s second album previously the band engaged more with was a relic from 1971. The writer points minimalist atmospherics, their more recent to a variety of things, such as singer David albums, the self-titled album Fujiya & Miyagi Best’s casually violent lyrics and the band’s and just-released Flashback, have seen them stylistic similarities to Neu!, Can and Roxy experimenting with chunkier, syncopated Music (all of whom were recording in beats. 1971) among other clues. They directly addressed this on the won- It’s a fun comparison, and it put Fujiya & derful wry and witty ‘Extended Dance Mix,’ Miyagi’s music in focus for would-be fans, with Best adopting his best Mike Skinner- but Best tells us: “I have a fondness for impression to speak-sing lines like “on social 1973 as that was the year I was born, and media platforms/the general consensus is/ many of my favorite records were released our popularity has declined/since 2006.” that year too. Arsenal won the double in So, what have they done since 2006 that 1971, but other than that, it holds no great deserves our praise? Well, for one, they importance.” dropped a wonderful, ambient 37-minute Since they burst onto the alternative long track, ‘Different Blades from the Same rock mainstream with their 2006 album, Pair of Scissors,’ that reminds us of the Transparent Things, they’ve inevitably been early days of Kraftwerk. Then, beginning compared to German krautrock legends, in 2016, they released a trio of EPs, which Can. It’s hardly an ideal situation to be would eventually become the album Fujiya pigeonholed early on, but by then the band & Miyagi. had already been playing with each other “By splitting the album into three sections for years, and were unabashed when pro- it enabled us to do a few things,” explains Best. “Firstly we had the immediacy of re- took from, the Damo Suzuki-fronted krauts. leasing music pretty much as soon as we had fessing“Over their the last love 10 for, years and theor so influence we’ve tried they compartmentalize ideas and themes. Lastly ourselves,” says Best. “I still love that peri- itfinished elongated it, which the release is unusual. which Secondly increased it didthe odto shed of music our initialfrom Germany, influences though, and become and es - albums lifespan.” pecially Can. I stole my whisper from Damo Their latest album, Flashback, dropped Suzuki. I haven’t got his scream though,

34 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS FUTURE DAYS

Nowadays they don’t write together as a it might just be easier for them to outsource single, also called Flashback, we hear a band group. While they previously got together as some of those responsibilities). As David on May 31, and while picking apart the first to hammer out the music, now they under- says, Fujiya & Miyagi feel like a group who are strings with bulbous, pulsating electro beats, stand how important it is to focus on their much closer and more involved in the music- whilemore relaxed,Best can happy also be to heard combine employing electronified his individual roles. As Best explains: “The most making process than other bands. very best sultry, Damo Suzuki vocal. important thing is to realize each other’s Now, as they return to China, they’re look- With almost 20 years working together in strengths and let people do what they are ing forward to chowing down on chicken feet the bag, Fujiya & Miyagi have inevitably gone good at. I don’t need to be a producer and again. Or not. “My least favorite thing was through a multitude of musical shifts, had Steve (Lewis) doesn’t need to write words.” eating chicken feet. I can still taste it now.” their fair share of critical hate and lived to tell As things change for the band, other fun- the tale. They now seem like a band at peace damental ideas remain the same. Fujiya & Sat Jun 15, 8.30pm; RMB150 (presale), RMB200 with their ideas and their releases. “I like to Miyagi still consider themselves to be a DIY (door); Omni Space, B103 Tianqiao Arts Center, think our music doesn’t have too much ego band. Reference their Bandcamp page, the Xiachen Square, Xicheng 西城区天桥艺术中心下沉广场 B103 (tickets via 247tickets.com) - fact that they send out their own records to sitions where each part exists for the greater fans, and that they continue to produce, re- goodinvolved of the with music.” it,” Best reflects. “I like compo cord and write all of their own stuff (although

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 35 ARTS | MUSIC RADIO FREE

A Sby Bryan GroganI A n April, one of Shanghai’s excellent under- “Something that is really amazing about ground electronic labels, SVBKVLT, made this city is how connected all the crews are," Ian appearance on London-based online Matt tells us. "You’ll have techno crews, club, radio station Rinse FM. Around the same grime, house, indie all attending each other’s time, another London-based music platform, gigs and even playing on the same line-ups.” Tobago Tracks, released a mix by Shanghai China Social Club are at least one reason producer 33EMYBW. Elsewhere, Groove that these crews are cross-pollinating. As Bunny Records’ Endy Chen made an appear- they see it, there’s little room for negativity, ance on NTS London in May, while LA-based and all the need in the world for a supportive Dublab played host to Radii China’s Josh backbone of artists in the city. Feola and Guizhou-born Faded Ghost (aka Through their work curating the NTS Live Yehaiyahan) for a set. in Shanghai broadcast, the duo contact and What does it all mean? For the optimists book musicians, transport gear, make the among us, it means that China’s under- promotional art and organize all the promo- ground music is getting much love on the tion and social media – quite the undertaking international scene. Online radio is increas- considering that they do this at least once ingly a platform for underground artists to every month. spread the word about under-appreciated The rationale behind starting the broad- scenes, with global platforms like Rinse FM, NTS Radio and Dublab leading the charge. Inside China, Australian duo China Social oncast the in Shanghaithe first place, music and scene, why and it remains they get to Club (Matt Hildebrand and Phil James) have meetfirmly and in place play musictoday? alongside It’s fun, it some shines of a their light been curating NTS Live from Shanghai, a favorite artists. monthly, four-hour show, for over three One of the hallmarks of the NTS Live from years. During that time they’ve been integral in bringing together a growing community of from outside of Shanghai, like Hong Kong’s Shanghai electronic artists in one place, with Alexmalism,Shanghai show South is its Korea’s local flavor. Airbear, While London’s artists their catalogue of broadcasts reading like a Killa P and others have dropped by for sets, who’s who of the city’s underground scene. the large glut of those who have appeared on the show reside in the ‘Hai.

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Referring to a broadcast they did from Middle East/Africa region at the 2018 woes. They recently posted through their Beijing a few years ago, Matt explains why Mixcloud Online Radio Awards, with HKCR Facebook account, asking fans for donations they keep the show in Shanghai: “You need walking away with the prize, and Fauve to keep the radio station going. Out of that to have someone to support you, to travel. Radio picking up the listeners’ choice award bleak period comes something new, however, Beijing can be a lot tougher than Shanghai in the same category. as Romain tells us, “the do-nations will not from a promoter’s point of view. It’s a lot They are deeply pleasing new additions only help us to stay alive but also help us more independent, alternative. And getting to a Hong Kong music scene, which has been to Beijing is just more expensive. You don’t awash with stories about venues closing release planned and accepted by the pressing just do it on a whim.” down due to noise complaints and rising plant;start our it will own be record a vinyl-only label. We release have of our a cover first With that being said, China Social Club are rents, causing a scarcity of venues in the city. of an infa-mous ‘80s Italo track where a local planning to follow up on a 2018 NTS Live Romain Fx, founder of Fauve Radio, tells us, Cantonese singer layered her own version of from Seoul broadcast with six shows in South “We wanted to create an outlet for DJs that the lyrics on top.” Korea over the course of the next year, while are coming through Hong Kong but that The underground, internet-based nature they’re also heading to Jakarta later this year maybe don’t have the right contacts to play in of these radio shows has not only helped to dig the Indonesian scene. the few clubs that exist here.” to expand the list of music platforms avail- “There was a good back and forth before Romain also speaks about the increasing able for China-based musicians, but also last year’s NTS Live in Seoul show, with Matt commercialization of electronic music in expanded to become centers around which and I inviting some cool Korean DJs over the cities as DJs aim to please clubs who are music fans and musicians revolve. As Romain to play China Social Club parties, and then primarily seeking performers who play Top tells us: “We’ve been seeing a big change in returning the favor, Matt went to play over 40 music. the shop. Much more people are passing by there,” Phil says. "It’s about building those “I think some radios sometimes have even to say hi, to meet up, to listen to records, to relationships with the cool local crews who better traction (than nightclubs) as they be stupid. It’s a bit like a kindergarten for know the scene well, and then we can bring help DJs that are maybe not as famous get adults.” the whole package together with our experi- noticed,” Romain says. “Artists can use their Kindergarten for adults, you say? Where ence of the broadcasting side.” streams as a sort of resume to then get gigs, do we sign up? In the south of China, Hong Kong which is where both cross over. Some radios Community Radio and Fauve Radio have nowadays, like Red Light Radio, have huge NTS Live from Shanghai: nts.live/shows/shanghai swiftly made names for themselves, both in traction and respect in the music commu- Fauve Radio: fauveradio.com/radio.html the Fragrant Harbor and on a global scale. nity.” Both stations were nominated for best - tures, Fauve Radio have had their money As with all idealistic, not-for-profit ven Online Radio Station in the Asia Pacific/

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 37 ARTS | MUSIC FOR THE RECORD Three New Homegrown Albums on Our Radar This Month by Ellie Dunnigan

Vanilla Villa by Sunset Rollercoaster The latest release from -based Sunset Rollercoaster checks in at just over seven minutes, a snack of a soundbite that’s as complex as it is concise. In three distinct scenes of summer, the three-track EP moves effortlessly between impro- visational funk, indie rock and bossa nova and showcases the six-piece band’s im- pressive range. The opening track is lush, layering the tropical sounds of rainsticks with Latin-leaning acoustic guitar, and it quickly establishes our expectations for a instrumental-heavy record. ‘Vanilla’ shifts gears, however, and steers us straight into a sun-drunk, lyric-forward indie ballad. The record closes with the funky ‘Villa,’

close with a 15-second fade-out provides the listener with a thoughtful transition backthe ‘80s-influenced into reality, waking rhythms us up of fromwhich a arebrief sway-worthy sepia-toned anddream. warm. Produced, Their decision recorded, to mixed and mastered by Yuchain Wang at Mori Sound, each of the tracks on Vanilla Villa deserves a place in your summertime arsenal.

Listen at: sunset-rollercoaster.bandcamp.com/album/vanilla-villa-ep

Transpacific Slop by Cruel Buddhist Wisconsin-raised and Shanghai-residing DJ Cruel Buddhist (Henry Robinson) Transpacific Slop is the latest addition to his rapidly growing discography, a chill-hop record he describeshas released as a “wavywhopping soundtrack five albums for the in theonset last of two summer.” years. Across its 13 tracks, Cruel Buddhist cultivates soundscapes and curates headspaces that are indi- vidually distinct but held together by the characteristic sounds that populate his - - outbrand the of record low-fidelity is both beatmaking. a nod to bygone His mastery grooves ofand texture totally and cutting-edge. innovative Expectsam rattlesnakepling allow forsamples novel andtakes erratic on the jazzy lo-fi beats genre, that and allow the thread for shameless he weaves head-bob through- bing for the entirety of the record’s 30-minute duration. Signed to Shanghai la- bel Eating Music, Cruel Buddhist will be touring these tracks throughout 2019, and it’s been said his instrumental live performances are a treat of their own.

Listen at: cruelbuddhist.bandcamp.com/album/transpacific-slop

Love is Medicine by Joy Ginger Chinese producer Joy Ginger once again teams up with Beijing-based Babel Records to create Love is Medicine, the title of which makes us think it’s a more romantically optimistic follow-up to 2017’s Love is Illusion. This future-pop/ electronic crossover record charts its own territory with its six diverse tracks speaking to Joy Ginger’s versatility, ranging from the broody and sensual ‘Blossom’ to the experimental ‘I’m Down,’ a haunting oracle of a song that combines an ethereal choir with eerie samples from everyday life. Though a master of pop and hip-hop, as heard on ‘Flouxetine’ and ‘Body in the Air,’ Joy Ginger doesn’t seem to be aiming for mainstream dance hits, choosing instead to push boundaries with unexpected texture and intentional negative space. The front-line presence of Australian pop rapper PRINCI only adds to the record’s mature and sultry feel. Ahead of the game and intelligent, Love is Medicine is anything but bubblegum.

Listen at: xiami.com/album/2104811176

38 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM PICK OF SIX | ARTS

Hu Weiyi, ‘The Window Blind’ Through Jun 15, HdM Group Exhibition, ‘Your footsteps are the road, for there is Gallery no road’ Through Jun 26, Red Brick Art Museum

Tan Yingjie, Shen Zhicheng, 'Blank Element' Through Jun 30, Hunsand Space

For gallery information visit www.thatsmags.com/beijing

Zhu Lan, ‘Slight’ Through Jul 7, EGG Gallery

Ni Jun, ‘An Inconvenient Case’ Through Jun 26, PIFO Gallery

Tobias Rehberger, ‘Blind and a Little Less’ Through Aug 11, Galerie Urs Meile

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 39 40 A NIGHT AT THE OPERA Your Quintessential Guide to Xiqu By Edoardo Donati Fogliazza, additional reporting by Lei Xiaodong. Images courtesy of Xu Xuan, Liu Dake and the China National Company.

t’s no overstatement that xiqu, the general term for Chinese drama, is the pride and joy of Chinese theater. Dating back centuries, the imperial art form Ihas been adapted and reimagined time and time again, with various styles birthed in the process. From legendary performances by the most famous Peking opera actor Mei Lanfang to Shanghai’s ambitious staging of Tang Xianzu’s Peony Pavilion in 1998, China’s traditional theater practice has continued to thrive, with passionate drama devotees keeping the sacred art form alive through the years. As theater troupes journeyed to the West to translate poignant dramas to global audiences, xiqu earned a reputation overseas, evolving and changing into contemporary forms. That’s takes you on a quintessential xiqu journey, from the most monumental moments in the history of Chinese theater to its modern evolution. IN THE SPOTLIGHT The History and Evolution of China's Precious Art Form

he teachers hit us. Hard.” motivated. We would As he retells his story, Xu Xuan think ‘I like this story, I makes it clear that becoming a want to do this,’ so we “TChinese opera actor is no easy feat. would ask the teachers “At the vocational school, we had to start from there, to physical training in the morning, involving teach us that piece we martial arts, with kicking, jumps and liked. Our minds were acrobatics. We woke up at around 7am, had in the right place.” a quick breakfast and then immediately went As a symbol of down to training, until around 11.30am. China itself, Chinese Then, in the afternoon, we had to train for the opera was, in his operas themselves – the spoken and singing parents’ minds, a parts.” prestigious field of Xu had just come out of work and an industry elementary school when he the state would always started his long and grueling support. apprenticeship at the vocational They had reasons school of the Jilin Municipal to believe this: China Opera Company. It was his has always been ready mother who first suggested he to defend this tradition pursue a career in theater. and to teach others to “Your life will be very treat it carefully. different from that of any other child,” she told him. “You won’t be spending time at a normal school and playing around with other children. But it will be worth n 1998, American director Chen Shi- it.” Zheng was in Shanghai preparing his “My mother knew all the ambitious staging of Peony Pavilion revolutionary operas from the Cultural I(Mudan Ting), the masterpiece Revolution by heart,” Xu says. “They by Tang Xianzu. Commissioned by New would always be playing in our house as I York’s Lincoln Center for the play’s 400th grew up.” anniversary, this 19-hour, three-day-long As Xu tells me, a career as an opera actor play was set to be the main attraction of the 41 was considered a viable and stable path for a center’s summer season. young child passionate about music, dancing It involved bringing one of the most and fighting. It was a typical tiefanwan job, famous pieces of Chinese theater to the the ‘iron rice bowl’ employment that assured US in its integral form, enacting on stage a steady income and subsidies to those who the entirety of Tang Xianzu’s 55-scene text could get it. For this reason, he and his peers through a philological work that had never were tireless in pursuing their training. been attempted before in China. “It could be very frustrating. It’s not that To complete the project, Chen you tried a jump and could immediately collaborated with the Shanghai master it. The repetition could get really Company (also known as Shang Kun), and boring. After all, martial arts in Chinese are set out on an eight-month-long design and called gong fu, and gong fu in Mandarin also rehearsal run with the troupe in the PRC. means the time and effort you invest in an At the end of this period, the long-awaited activity.” production was almost ready for the stage. “But we were young boys who dreamed Almost. [of becoming] good actors one day. We were During a dress rehearsal held behind closed doors in Shanghai, in the presence of a number of scholars and the press, an official from the local tourism bureau thought what he saw was a misrepresentation of China's operatic tradition. Chen's Peony Pavilion was deemed “pornographic, feudal and superstitious.” Soon after, the production was forced to a sudden halt and the entire troupe was prevented from leaving Shanghai for the US, with most of the props confiscated at the airport. Chen underestimated the importance this form of dramatic tradition held in 42 the eyes of Chinese authorities, and in Shanghai, given its proximity to the birthplace of kunqu opera (the particular style that Peony Pavilion is performed in) – the city of Suzhou. But the wake-up call was not enough to stop the foreign producers. In 1999, the director set up a rerun with American- Chinese performers, again at the Lincoln Center. Though this time, it was not the only sensational production being staged. During the same year, two other headline- grabbing productions of Peony Pavilion were touring around China and the US, making 1999 known as the ‘Year of Peonies’ in art circles. One was done by Peter Sellars, the American director famous for his contemporary, iconoclastic renditions of The Shang Kun show was a statement, operas and plays. It featured music by Tan an attempt at defending a canon with Dun, though very little of the kunqu form’s which they identified. “He violated kunqu's common characteristics. The other, which [Training] aesthetic. [...] He vulgarized it.” That only toured in China, was staged by none aesthetic, though, hadn't always been there. other than Shang Kun, the ensemble Chen could be very Shi-Zheng originally collaborated with, strictly adhering to the traditional staging frustrating. It’s form. not that you tried peras were written out of the tradition of the southern folk a jump and could theater,” Swatek adds. “It was “Othen taken over by highly-literate scholar officials, who embraced it [...] and turned immediately it into a vehicle for their own aesthetic tastes, personal feelings and even political master it stances.” Indeed, Chinese opera is a relatively young form of entertainment, codified between the 15th and 19th centuries. When Tang Xianzu set out to write his “I think [China] was reacting in masterpiece, it was a form of creative particular to Chen Shi-Zheng’s production,” writing infused with taboo themes like Catherine Swatek, former professor of sexual desire and the death-defying power Chinese language and pre-modern of passion, as experienced by the heroine of literature at the University of British Peony Pavilion. Columbia and author of Peony Pavilion The Qing dynasty, of Manchurian Onstage, tells me. “I think what bothered origin, was responsible for the sudden authorities was the scene conception: He popularization and institutionalization of wanted to make it something that was not Chinese drama, which became one of the kunqu, to take it back to its roots in folk favored forms of entertainment by the court theater.” and, for the first time, publicly available. During this period, the majority of China’s At the start of China’s so-called ‘century stage traditions emerged and spread, of humiliation,’ with the country entering forming a cultural image that is now often a semi-colonial status for the first time in defined as ‘Chinese opera.’ its history, Chinese intellectuals undertook That being said, ‘Chinese opera’ is a large-scale redeeming and reforming actually a contested umbrella term used in endeavor that would culminate in the May Western countries. 4th Movement. The term ‘opera’ projects onto This involved adapting some tokens Chinese drama the form and tradition of of Western thought and technology, while European opera, which mainly centers rediscovering the roots of Chinese culture around singing, as opposed to its Chinese and adapting it so it could speak to a counterpart, which fuses singing, spoken growing public. In the process, reformers word, acting, hand gestures and even identified xiqu as an art form embodying martial arts and dance. China, its culture and, because of its It also oversimplifies the complex origins, also its people. ensemble of different genres that make At this time, drama theorist Qi Lushan up Chinese drama. A better term, used put Chinese opera at the center of a new in China today to refer to the country’s cultural strategy. At the start of the 20th power,” Josh Stenberg, lecturer in Chinese theatrical traditions in general, is xiqu, century, he contributed to coining and studies at the University of Sydney, tells meaning ‘stage drama.’ Recorded xiqu popularizing the concept of guoju (national me. “The Chinese government is spending forms total at around 200, ranging from drama). He then selected jingju as the enormous amounts of money to send the powerful arrangements of Peking opera xiqu tradition best suited for the role of a Chinese opera troupes abroad. It's cultural (jingju) to the ephemeral beauty of the centralized national drama, making guoju diplomacy.” While completing his PhD at delicate singing and gestures of kunqu, to and jingju synonymous. With the eventual the University of Nanjing, Stenberg became which Peony Pavilion belongs. popularization of the concept, a national the first foreigner ever to be employed But when, and how, were these tradition was solidified. Defining it as such, at the Jiangsu Kun Opera Troupe, a different forms combined together to make the newborn Chinese position which allowed him to have a deep up the general concept of xiqu? nation was now understanding of the role guoju plays in the Most scholars point to an able, and willing, eyes of Chinese authorities. He explains: indissoluble bond between the to use xiqu as a “The past few years brought about a new institutionalization of diplomatic and soft- cultural nationalism that values tradition at xiqu and the birth power tool. large. There has been a large policy shift of China as a The world did not to support cultural products that can be modern nation. have to wait long to associated with the ’grand tradition.’” see Chinese drama Today, Chinese opera retains its power deployed for political to unify people in the name of that same purposes. In 1930, the tradition. venerated performer Mei “Guoju represents one of the roots Lanfang, famous for his of our culture – we consider it as part of performances where he our identity as Chinese people,” says Liu impersonated a female Dake, one of the headliners of the National character (called Peking Opera Company (CNPOC), China’s dan), embarked on a top-ranked government-backed opera highly publicized tour troupe. Founded in 1955, it falls directly in North America. under the supervision of the Ministry of The goal was to pursue Culture and consists of three actors’ troupes the support of the US, and theaters. which was actively enforcing As such, it is a fundamental institution the Chinese Exclusion Act, for the promotion and protection of amidst facing the threats of this cultural heritage, or as Liu puts it: a growing Communist power “The mission of the CNPOC is […] to 43 and an impending Japanese demonstrate, to guide and to represent.” invasion. That is, actors in the CNPOC, as much as Performing masterfully, any others from the officially recognized and repeatedly speaking troupes, are not just supposed to perform, about peace in public but to embody the art of guoju, and inspire appearances, Mei Lanfang future generations to keep it alive. left a mark on Western cultural When asked what guoju actually stands circles, becoming a modern icon for, Liu replies with five characters: “Chang, of national culture. As China was nian, zuo, da, fan.” That means “singing, about to enter one of the darkest acting, physical expression, martial arts periods of its history, and dan roles and acrobatics” – all the talents needed to were about to disappear as xiqu become a proficient actor. started admitting female actors, guoju “Jingju actually represents all of would not have a similar period of these and all of the country’s hundreds foreign exposure for decades. of different traditions. That’s also why we But its importance did not fade. consider it a pretty much perfect form,” he “Opera is still used for soft adds. Liu thinks this is why it has not changed to evolve if it wanted to survive, and that much since gaining its mark of officiality Chinese performers would benefit from at the start of the 20th century. That’s being exposed to different theatrical forms. also why, for an actor like him, working But changing an art form that at the CNPOC is the ultimate goal. As audiences and performers alike consider to the top xiqu institution in the country, it be perfect is easier said than done. benefits from state subsidies and incarnates “We used to say that jingju is already the excellence of the art. It means being perfect, and this is the dominant thought in recognized as one of the elite performers the industry. After the , in China. many tried to add more elaborate set designs and real objects into the scenes, but old masters protested,” he says. The story of Chen Shi-Zheng’s Peony Pavilion can be taken as proof that the hat was exactly what Xu Xuan and industry and authorities who are tasked his classmates hoped for back in with protecting this art form are averse to 44 Jilin. Though reality would soon hit. change. Still, it seems like the resistance to TAfter finishing at the vocational school, new forms and to the introduction of non- Xu went on to complete four years of canonical components is not as strong as it training at the renowned Beijing Drama was in 1998. Academy. In 2015, the CNPOC embarked on its It was there that he and many other very first ‘transcultural’ production, staging students realized their dreams of becoming two Western dramas of worldwide fame, actors. But the benefits their parents told until the culture department decided to Faust and Turandot, using Peking opera them about appeared less desirable than make the university and vocational schools costumes, acting and music. Liu Dake was before. With globalization speeding up free.” the first to lobby for the project, which was in the early 2000s, and the economy Xu had graduated only a few years born from a meeting he had in Europe with booming, the entertainment industry was before, when this was decided in 2009. a German director who was participating in transforming radically, with movies and Chinese opera was losing its grip on young one of CNPOC’s workshops. TV becoming the go-to media of China’s audiences and a mediocre, albeit stable, “I liked the idea of bridging cultures fledgling middle class. job at a state company like the CNPOC did and adapting Western operas with Chinese “The young boys our age who made not look like much at a time when young theatrical forms,” he tells me. “I believe movies became stars and could earn a lot people were accumulating huge fortunes as [Chinese opera] has to change if it wants to of money. We started to ask ourselves why self-made entrepreneurs. survive.” we were working our asses off training to And Xu himself was not ready to settle earn a meager salary in a state company for a job at a state company for life. “After while they were making public appearances my graduation, I could have entered the for 100,000 yuan,” Xu tells us. CNPOC easily, but I decided to leave. I “We considered ourselves could not bear to spend my life there. I was n fact, the most recent innovations in more artistic, more talented and very courageous and young, and wanted to staging productions come from the able to do more than the movie go abroad,” he says. stated desire of Chinese authorities to stars could. But parents around With a scholarship from the Italian Imake this art form a spearhead of China’s China understood that an Ministry of Culture, 21-year-old Xu landed soft power expansion. As Liu explains, investment in this career in the Italian city of Pordenone, where he “Institutions like the CNPOC invest brought nothing. studied commedia dell’arte at the local money in productions and educational Students became experimental drama school. His time in activities that are targeted to draw in more less and less Italy changed his views about Chinese audiences, often also abroad.” [interested] opera and reinforced his belief that it had In 2010, the Peking University Opera Academy was founded in Beijing, a first- of-its-kind institution that offers programs in both Chinese and Western opera styles, as well as researches and implements new forms in both traditions. In 2016, the State We considered Council Information Office launched a new campaign, dubbed ‘Chinese culture walks ourselves more out,’ tasked with devising ways to promote China’s heritage both inside and outside artistic, more the country. Abroad, Chinese authorities have been talented and able to promoting Chinese opera mostly through the worldwide network of Confucius do more than movie Institutes around the globe, or partnerships with scholarly institutions in foreign countries. Given the relatively niche status stars could of Chinese drama overseas, there are only a few places where it is possible to access xiqu abroad. “Foreign audiences don’t have very for a long time already. He defined a so- “We successfully combined good access to the best of Chinese called ‘new opera,’ which “emerged in 1945 tradition with modernity, which theater,” says Stenberg, from the University with The White-Haired Girl and combined explains why our production of Sydney, pointing to the nature of the ‘Western compositional structures with attracted a large crowd of performance as one of the reasons why it Chinese singing.’” young people, especially college might be of low commercial value abroad. In short, the Chinese opera tradition students,” he tells us. “[It] works best when the performance is in might not be as strict as it is thought to In opposition to what the a sufficiently small space, as it allows you be. Stenberg has dedicated a long time performers seem to believe, he to be close enough to the performers to see investigating the innovation of xiqu in an sees the problem of promotion their faces. You just can’t scale it up – if attempt to go beyond what he called in and adaptation in a different you do, it loses its uniqueness and becomes one of his publications a “slippery idea of light. “Peony Pavilion is Tang commercial theater.” tradition.” He argued that “there can be Xianzu’s greatest work – the peak of In fact, Chinese institutions have usually no doubt of a drastic, unavoidable and Ming drama. It is a most beautiful and opted for traditional staging of Chinese constant change.” romantic love story, comparable with dramas, or for workshops and exchange One such case: at the Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet,” he says. programs, to bring the art to new audiences, start of the 20th century. Flying in the face “We kept the original production intact usually having to settle for relatively small of tradition, yueju, a local style of opera, without making any compromises to cater audiences. This is what made Faust and was turned from male to entirely female- to foreign audiences […] and with its 300 Turandot quite unique, featuring new performed for commercial gain at a time performances all around the country, there stories chosen to help audiences when women’s equality was the talk of are obvious signs of renewed interest in digest the foreign artform more the day. [xiqu] among the young audiences.” comfortably. That goes to say that the That is, if you know how to find the They were CNPOC’s first practices Liu or Xu might find right way to stage it. attempt at what Stenberg calls constricting have really been Faust and Turandot were quite well “transnational theater,” though the result of a succession of received in Italy, but were far from being they are not by any means new. innovations, cautiously devised not a success. Xu, who saw Faust, felt let Outside of China, these ‘fusion’ to denature what was considered down by the final product: “I expected operas have been some of the an important tradition. Some, to see something that hit me, something most impactful ways through in fact, think a rejuvenation of exceptionally exciting, something that made which foreigners came to know the forms of xiqu with respect me think ‘Oh, you can also do it this way.’ Chinese theater and gave for the art can be achieved, But instead it was just the same gestures, rise to innovations that and should be the way to the same masks and costumes of traditional found no space at home. go. Peking opera.” Peony Pavilion Kenneth Pai is one Both Chen and Sellars' productions and its reinterpretation of them. At 81 years old, of Peony Pavilion in 1999 also ended up are of course an Pai is a retired professor receiving mixed reviews, both in China and example. But the operas from UC-Santa Barbara abroad. Pai is on the same side: “As far as composed by Tan Dun, and an author of fiction, kunqu is concerned, I do not believe the who was part of the first plays and movie scripts. arbitrary mixture of orthodox kunqu with generation of Chinese When it comes to xiqu, he Western music is the right development. composers who found success embodies a true success Judging from the many failed productions outside of China, were also story, since he set out to of such ‘innovations,’ I have strong doubts groundbreaking for their musical revitalize the tradition with about its future.” scores, which combined the his 2004 Young Lovers Among all the voices in this ongoing pipa (a traditional Chinese edition of, among all debate, everybody agrees on at least one instrument) with Bach’s things, Peony Pavilion. point: Chinese opera needs to change to counterpoint. With incredible success survive. Though the process of finding the And so, the question in China – especially right way to bring it to younger and larger remains: Should China pursue with the elusive young audiences is not straightforward, it clearly the same approach when it audiences – and rave needs to consider the role opera plays in the 45 comes to innovating? In a reviews abroad, he hearts and minds of the people of China. piece for Sixth Tone, Yang seemed to have found In Xu’s words: “These are the first Yimin, professor at the Peking the recipe to make xiqu steps towards innovation. We can fall, University Opera Academy, palatable at home and we can fail, but slowly we can study how discussed the dilemma, overseas, while proposing to get better. I can see a new willingness pointing out that China has yet another long-form in pursuing change, and that’s all that actually been doing this rendition, in 29 acts. matters.” BEHIND THE MASK 46 An Interview with Actor Liu Jianyang

haoju is a Zhejiang-born operatic world to promote this unique art form. That’s tradition rooted in rural theater, which spoke with Liu about his career, the grueling Swas developed during the late 18th and training process required to master the 19th century, spreading especially in the south role and what it means to truly embody the of China. Together with yueju, it belongs character one plays. to the operatic tradition, which draws its name from the geographic region When and why did you start pursuing a of the same name, and is characterized by career in ? exaggerated singing and mimicry, colorful I started when I was five. At the time, I just costumes and impetuous music. liked to jump around and sing along to tapes The stage adaptation of Journey to the – I simply could not stand still. My mother West (Xi You Ji), one of China’s four great asked me if I wanted to train in shaoju and I novels, is the crown jewel of the shaoju immediately said yes. repertoire, and the defiant trickster character, It was a long and painful process: there the Monkey King, is its most representative were a lot of letdowns, anger and frustrations and coveted role, requiring the actor to to swallow. But I liked it and I was resilient, perform complex acting, mimicry and and discovered that it is really not that hard to acrobatic routines throughout the play. do something when it’s something you love. This demanding role is at the center of Throughout the years, a lot of people – and actor Liu Jianyang’s career. Headliner of the even my peers – were often asking me why troupe of the Shaoxing Opera Art Research I did not leave to pursue a career in a city, Institute, he has played the Monkey King as many young people were doing during for more than 20 years, training young China’s Reform and Opening-up period. I generations of performers and touring the had to choose early and I had to persevere on this path to truly achieve my goal of earning my living doing what I loved.

What makes shaoju unique? China has hundreds of regional dramatic traditions, but I guess the most interesting distinction to draw is the one between shaoju and yueju. is also part of the Shaoxing drama style, but is performed only by females as it embodies the feminine essence – it’s very delicate and refined.Shaoju is instead the embodiment of the masculine, with a forceful style – the stance of the actors has to be resolute and upright. Also, it challenges and hardships, and he has the studying the technical side of the character, embodies the local style and character, as it intelligence and strength to overcome them, but also understanding what he really represents a local, decentralized and minority but what he has to learn is to really develop embodied and what he is supposed to taste. the right mindset to face the challenges life communicate to the audience. He tells throws at him, and that he cannot face them them that even a very strong character When did you start embodying the alone. has flaws and weaknesses. The Monkey character of the Monkey King? He is not just a character, but also an King is ultimately a human: He is the most I always looked up to other performers [that essence, a state of mind. The story teaches us powerful among all animals, yet not perfect played the role]. During my early studies, I fell that it doesn’t matter how strong and talented by any means. in love with the Monkey King. I thought the we are, one person’s strength is limited and character was so compelling and I desperately hardships can be overcome with the help of During the workshops and conferences wanted a chance to play him. He was my others. you’ve taken part in around the world, favorite character in the novel, too. Thus, the Monkey King embodies a deep you often apply your own makeup in When I turned 16, the time came for us to life lesson, one that I had to also learn in front of the audience. How long does it pick a specialization, and we had to explore the process of performing the role. It meant take to transform into the character of the roles in order to choose the one we would Monkey King? play primarily in our future careers. It takes me one hour to put on the makeup, which is a traditional mask including What are the features which define this highlights to the nose and mouth, to character, and what does an actor need to underline that the character the audience is do to bring him to life? seeing is, indeed, an animal. And this is not Ultimately, the Monkey King is a character counting the time needed to dress up. of great intelligence and trickery, but quite cowardly at the same time. The original What are some of the most impactful character, like all the content that formed memories related to the characters that Xi You Ji, came from oral tradition, stories you carry with you? transmitted from generation to generation in It was 1978 when the director of the troupe rural areas. I was working in at the time prevented In those stories, the Monkey King served me from playing the character despite as an example: He has to confront countless my pleas. He wanted me to play another character from Journey to the West because no one else was available, and that made me feel extremely frustrated. As a defiant 17-year-old, I protested. But the director managed to convince me, making me believe I was really the only one qualified for the role. I was actually just the only other male available. Though now I know, he would have had me play the role anyway. It is really important to try out different roles and understand the nuances of other characters we have to share the stage with. This is a fundamental step in honing our skills. It also helped me realize that this career is not about having fun or just fulfilling a dream – it is a serious and sometimes painful process. But every letdown and mistake is a key to learning. This is why I now tell the same story to my students. 47 蝶损 dié sǔn The act of holding a writing brush.

逗花 dòu huā The act of cupping one’s hands in obeisance or greeting.

映日 yìng rì 48 The gesture that indicates a faraway A SHOW place, a long way to go. OF HANDS 并蒂 bìng dì Understanding Mei Lanfang’s A delicate way to clap one’s hands. Lady Zhao from Yuzhou Feng uses it while Hand Gestures laughing uncontrollably in one of her scenes.

挹翠 and gestures are a fundamental yì cuì component of stage presence in Portraying ‘pouring jade,’ it’s one of the Chinese opera. Particularly famous many ways to hold a are the ones Mei Lanfang used to portray the H fan. attributes and actions of the female characters he impersonated. The celebrated actor perfected a series of gestures that now make up 蒨蒨 what is called the Mei Lanfang ‘orchid style,’ qiàn qiàn which the famous performer practiced tirelessly Symbolizing ‘flourishing,’ it’s one of the poses a in pursuit of an ideal beauty. female character holds in In 1935, Peking opera theorist Qi Rushan the process of rolling up had compiled a complete set of 53 orchid her sleeves. gestures, complete with photographs and descriptions of each of them. Unfortunately, time irreparably damaged many of Qi’s original 笑日 xiào rì photographs. To revive this historical record, A way to indicate one’s Communication University of China doctoral head. Liu Yingchun from student Yu Liwei set out to recapture all 53 Fenghe Wan uses it to original hand gestures from Mei Lanfang’s indicate when a beautiful school in a series of new photographs, which woman’s hair turns white. were displayed in an exhibition for the first time in 2017. 吐蕊 Yu shared her photographs with That’s, tù rui together with detailed descriptions of each The holding of a thin, delicate object, like a flower. Liu movement. Here is a selection of some of the Yingchun uses it to hold a most graceful gestures photographed by Yu golden seal in Fenghe Wan. reimagined by graphic designer Alexandra Osipov.

弄姿 nòng zī The way a female character Yu Liwei's photographs will be on display carries a tray. Hong Xian in through June 7 at the Art Department of Peking Stealing the Precious Box University, 1 Yiheyuan Lu, Haidian district uses it when serving tea. 海淀区颐和园路1号 KNOW YOUR MASKS

he vibrant facial masks are probably one of Chinese opera’s most recognizable features, the most well-known being the Tones of Peking Opera characters. They’re the go- to souvenir for tourists visiting Beijing, impressed on everything from building facades to bottle- openers. They’re not actual decorated masks, but rather refined face-painting patterns that BLUE symbolize the characters appearing on the stage. RED MASK Covering the entirety of an actor’s face, these MASK Blue complex makeup works enhance mimicry, which Red indicates represents xiqu acting is based on, and make the individual devotion and loyalty, fierceness recognizable in the ensemble. But the vibrant bravery. It is the and cunning. Blue colors of these facial masks also communicate color of Guan Yu, a masks belong to powerful important information about the character fearless and faithful generals and strong advisors. to the audience, in a code general of the three You can see it on the face of sometimes very different kingdoms period. Xiaohu Dun, the Han dynasty from one a foreign chancellor and warlord Cao audience might Cao’s most trusted general. be used to. Here’s a small selection from the hundreds of face decorations YELLOW developed through WHITE the centuries, so MASK you’ll know what to FACE Yellow represents You might see this expect from characters a fierce, ambitious mask as black, but appearing on the stage. but cool-headed the key to distinguishing disposition. Here you can it from a black mask is see it in the ‘fractured’ the dominant color. When variant, featuring the main color is white, complicated patterns with feature-defining black representing lower-rank highlights, you’re in front of generals or wandering lone a sinister and treacherous warriors. villain.

TAN MASK 49 The standard mask for women’s roles, this one comes in many variations and represents the innocence, beauty and artistic disposition of the xiqu female roles.

WHERE TO SEE XIQU IN BEIJING

Chang'an Grand Huguang Guild Liyuan Theatre Mei Lanfang Zhengyici Peking Theater Hall Qianmen Jianguo Grand Theatre Opera Theatre 7 Jianguomennei Dajie, 3 Hufang Lu, Xicheng Hotel, 175 Yongan Lu, 32 Pinganlixi Dajie, 220 Xiheyan Dajie, Dongcheng 市西城区西城虎坊路3号 Hufangqiao, Xicheng Xicheng Xuanwu 东城区建国门内大街7号 en.beijinghuguang.com 西城区虎坊桥永安路175号前 西城区平安里西大街32号 宣武区 宣武区西河沿大街 www.changandaxiyuan. 门建国饭店1层 www.bjmlfdjy.cn 220号 com www.zhengyici.com.cn EAT & DRINK

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Mifan or Mafan Beer Boom Blues Bar p53 p56 p57 FOOD FOR THOUGHT 51 - - - WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM … vanced, but they still don't compare to today. to compare still don't but they vanced, You can find Shang mixing drinks at a bar near Communication University of China subway station. Who is your hero? Who is your and basketball playing I love Bryant. Kobe he’s just incredible. motto? What is your is pos disposition, anything With the right sible. that's thing What's the most surprising you? to happened go back to a ticket time I buy It happens every a After again. relatives home and I see my long time has passed and I see them in front a feel the first time. I always like of me, it feels special connection. you would of Beijing's history Which era in? lived have to most like society I believe still choose today. I would as time passes. And this getting better keeps peo I believe China. true for is particularly getting better. keep ple’s spirit and civility history Some moments of ancient Chinese ad really good and society was really were - - portant languages. This is partially because I portant languages. This is partially here. customers foreign so many have greatest your consider What do you achievement? is I think an achievement 30 yet. I’m not even of struggle a life something that comes after yet. I’m not there – I feel and work a person? in most value do you What trait if this is something know I don’t Filial piety. can understand – it’s a concept a foreigner I culture. Chinese traditional coming from their parents. can respect people who like most dislike? What is it that you and their elders do not respect who People members. family their thoughts going through my head, not count my going through thoughts fast. I But is going too ing this job. My life that I’m at the bar – the time now better feel here. passes a little faster happiest? you were where and When The moment I held him baby. When I had my I felt just got better. life my hands, I felt in my existence. further in my a step I moved like have? to most like you Which talent would most im I wish I could speak all the world’s - - -

I’m feeling a bit hopeless. I have a lot of a bit hopeless. I have I’m feeling The ones who start screaming, spitting, in start screaming, The ones who today? feeling you are How Who is your worst customer? worst Who is your patriotic. Xi. I’m very President behave. behave. most admire? do you person Which living The loyal ones, who come back often and come back often ones, who The loyal drinking. Drunk custom after sulting others the worst. ers are Who is your best customer? best customer? Who is your I have to go to work. go to to I have you woke up this morning? up this morning? woke you What's the first thing you thought when when thought you What's the first thing about what happened. about what be able to have a drink with friends and talk have be able to a day that is too fast-paced, and after work to to work and after fast-paced, that is too a day after I wake up in the morning, and not have and not have up in the morning, I wake after to have my family and friends close to me and friends close to family my have to The perfect day for me is a normal day. I like I like me is a normal day. for day The perfect What is your idea of the perfect day? day? idea of the perfect What is your his loyal customers. customers. his loyal paring overpowered Long Island iced teas for for Long Island iced teas paring overpowered This month we meet Shang, who is busy pre is busy meet Shang, who This month we

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SNACKS AND THE CITY NEWS BITE There’s no getting around the sweaty Beijing summer temps now. That’s why, along with the merciless sun, this month brings a plethora of outdoor drinking and, well, just drinking in general.

dead may never die. Café de la Poste, the landmarkFirst things expat first: haven it seems specializing that what's in pastis and quality late-night people- watching, was resurrected from the Yonghegong construction ashes. Still standing, though operating through an abstract entryway, the French bar and restaurant proves it won’t go down that easy. Over in Lido, last month also saw the return of veteran pub The Irish Volunteer. More Irish spirit: Dongzhimen expat hotspot Paddy O’Shea’s is expand- ing into its neighboring space, though GOURMET GIZMO Taste-testing robots may soon replace food experts (human ones), thanks to a program funded reason to spill out into the street. we’reJing-A sure beerpub crawlers garden collaborations will still find a are Chinese food. More than 10 food manufacturers in China have already taken part in trialing popping up in unexpected places. After theby the AI-taster government technology, to explore as reported more profitable by South Chinaoptions Morning of authenticating Post. These mass-produced foodie robots come another run this season at The Opposite equipped with sensors that mimic human eyes, noses and tongues, and will oversee food pro- House’s sunken garden, the beer guys are bringing their brews to Pak Pak Thai Kitchen in the CBD, paired with Thai duction from start to finish, with the intent of improving the quality. bites. OFF THE BEATEN PLATE No matter how you feel about baijiu, there’s no debate about ice cream – it’s In a shocking turn of events, Lay’s has simply the ideal cool-down solution in added an extra element to their chips: this steamy city during the summertime. dipping sauces. Chips and dip are a clas- But Singaporean eatery Tease is taking sic party snack that any get-together will it one step further: ice cream made with have as default, so that’s not the shocking Maotai baijiu. (Hey, don’t knock it till bit here. Lay’s simply did not consider the you’ve tried it.) But alas, if you’re looking for some or how inaccessible their dip containers sustenance this summer, don’t worry. are.strength The shapeof their of chip, the chips the clashing and the flavorssauce There’s some food news here too: an un- likely duo we never saw coming. Tex-Mex or just a tiny dab that does nothing (though pros Q Mex and Japanese BBQ joint Gyu maybecontainers that’s force for theeither better). an overload Lay’s is of very flavor con - Tetsu joined forces to debut two new fu- sion specials at Q Mex Taqueria: Wagyu the chance to add a kick to their potentially boring beef tacos and skirt steak marinated with siderate to allow convenience store snack aficionados pineapple and chili. desired. The three available combinations include tomato chips and orange The Rug Cafe at WF dip,chips, cucumber but the flavor chips combinationswith an apple havedip, and much original left to Lay’sbe with… Coca-Cola Central has added some tasty new dishes dip. Of the three, tomato and orange work the best together, which isn’t say- like Anda savory finally, smoked salmon crepe and ing much, while the other two are better off untouched. The only good part spicy mapo tofu pizza (both ideal for hun- here is being able to reseal the container and throw all components away gover Sunday brunches). VO without much hassle. MG

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52 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY VALERIE OSIPOV / [email protected]

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 53 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANTS

MERCI Touche, TRB by Holly Baer

we’ve got to try it. This one had us Whikinghen TRB to opensChaoyang a new Joy restaurant, City, all the restaurant is two stories). wayWhen to the wefifth hear and that sixth it’s floors an open (yeah, air, the two- level French cafe, we’re delighted by the idea of blue skies and feeling the breeze on our skin. Given its location inside a mall, the with what they had when it came to the open concept.imagery falls a bit flat, but Merci worked The decor itself is blue and gold from spoons to archways. Beyond the oft-cliché color palette, it's clear we're stepping into a French restaurant (or a Parisian-themed birthday party). damn delicious. Every doubt and question we haveBut about the thefood? location Pardon and our decor French, melt but away it’s like bone marrow in our mouths. Other than we taste is delicious. We especially recom- a simple pumpkin soup (RMB28), everything has two whole pages dedicated to its fry of- (pricesmend the vary). bone marrow and snails (RMB98), ferings—spoiler alert, they offer regular and pateFor on ourtoast main (RMB32) course, and we garlic choose prawns the Though the decor (and the French maid sweet potato (RMB58). andmixed sausage, meat platter as well (RMB238), as vegetables, a wooden asparagus, kitsch, we’re sure that the incredible food corn,plate filledred onion with andlamb tomatoes. chops, chicken, The meat pork lives aloneoutfits will donned keep bypatrons the waitresses) coming back feels time a bit and up to expectations: melt-in-your-mouth ten- time again, with French techniques and rich derness served with delicate sauces. The real MVP in our book is a star side: potatoes with short-ribs and parmesan flavors singing throughout each dazzling dish. oneIs this thing fine is dining certain: or We’da post-shopping go back for bitethose to short-ribeat before potatoes heading alone.home? We’re not sure, but foodcheese porn (RMB38). – cheese Every and potatobite is creamystringing and along fromdelicious the bowland the to ourfirst mouths. spoonful is verifiably Daily, 11am-10pm; Unit 31, Joy Yard, 5/F-50, Merci also offers casual options if that’s Chaoyang Joy City, 101 Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang more your style. The menu is brimming with 朝阳区朝阳大悦城6层601内5F-50 burgers, sliders, pastas and risottos. It even

54 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM BARS | EAT & DRINK

CHOCOLATE & MILK Shake It Up words and images by Hawk Lincoln

any bar concepts have come and refused to simply rest on the laurels of his thick and heavy drink. The drink is crisp and gone throughout the annals of well-curated spirits list. Chocolate & Milk has spicy, a modern masterpiece that looks like a MBeijing’s tumultuous nightlife histo- plenty of mixology chops as well. A rotary glass of Chardonnay topped with celery foam. ry. Now, Chocolate & Milk has arrived on the evaporator and centrifuge are displayed Overall, Chocolate & Milk is a welcome scene offering a fresh take on some classic proudly behind the bar, where they are taste- addition to the Sanlitun bar scene. It hosts Beijing bar staples, complete with an enor- fully employed in the making of the bar’s an outstanding and well-priced alternative mous triangle-shaped back bar, possibly only original creations. The cocktail menu — with whisky selection, as well as a creatively ex- the second ever to grace Sanlitun. perimental yet not overly pretentious cocktail An inconspicuous push-button sliding balanced, unique and creative, featuring both door reveals a cozy and warmly-lit modern- moleculardrinks priced mixology between and RMB80-95 traditional — Chinese is well ist-meets-malt-shop interior, with a spacious ingredients. Daily,menu, 6pm-late; deeming 10 it Xingfusancun definitely worth Fifth Alley, a visit. hardwood bar facing a few Picasso replicas Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福三村五巷 on the opposite wall. a frothy mix of gin, pu’er tea, cranberry juice, Chocolate & Milk’s spirits selection fo- homemadeWe start dark with beer the Darksyrup Times and egg (RMB80), white. cuses on gin and whisky. The bar holds an With every sip, it’s earthy and beautifully exceptional array of surprisingly well-priced, balanced with a rich texture, and a pleasantly independently bottled Scotch whiskies (with subtle marriage of the funky notes found in an assortment of single malts and bourbons both fermented tea and stout. for the unadventurous as well). One could After that, we are recommended the come here time and time again and never have the same spirit twice – a great option for we usually don’t advocate drinking a Bloody the insatiable spirits geek. Centrifuge-Bloody Mary (RMB95). While The bar owner, Wayne, however, has gives a light and refreshing body to a typically Mary after 2pm, the clarified tomato juice

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 55 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANTS

BEER BOOM Blast from the Past words and images by Andrew Braun

link for a hot second and something new is bound to pop up in this city. while allowing just enough room for intimacy BFrom cocktail bars to burger shops, amongtwo floors couples with anda tasteful joviality amount within of groups. kitsch, the capital metropolis that was once known Now a good grub spot can be decorated mainly for its street food stalls and substand- to the utmost quality, but when it comes to ard eateries is quickly changing. game-time decisions, it’s all about the goods. Speaking of burger shops, a new joint is We are recommended the Black Warrior trying to shake things up on Gongti Donglu. Beer Boom delivers a cultivated selection of beers, burgers, pizza, and wings. Sounds theBurger city, (RMB55), this meaty and variant it doesn’t is a strong disappoint. con- - tender,While there especially are definitely given that better they’re burgers still op in- dium where the Beijing Guoan team plays erating in soft-opening mode when we visit. theirgood homeso far, games,eh? Located it seems east like from a great the sta spot As for the beer, we opt for a Knight of Cups to grab a couple of home-brews (yep, they brew their own beer onsite and, given the us satisfyingly refreshed – everything you’d tiny space they have here, we’re impressed) want(RMB35), from a a crisp wheat and beer. clean brew that leaves before heading to watch the Big Green make While not a jaw-dropper, Beer Boom can Beijing proud. hold its own to the area’s pubs. What’s bet- Walking into the eatery, we get a sense of being thrown back in time, when malt shops games begin. were the place to be on Friday night and Otis ter than some added competition? May the Daily, 6pm-1am; 2 Gongti Dongjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区 brass furniture with classic tables adorn the 工体东街2号 (159 0136 7930) Redding was still on the radio. Leather and

56 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM BARS & RESTAURANTS | EAT & DRINK

B.B. QUEEN Got the Blues words and images by Flynn Murphy

ew Wangjing jazz bar B.B. Queen is behind the bar, where the swords are swapped well. The beef, peppers and onions come in a study in how lighting can make or for the necks of six mutilated guitars. a skillet with warm fajitas and all the tra- Nbreak a mood. But on the Thursday night we attend, ditional condiments, including an excellent They've got plenty of old jazz LPs — cruci- overly bright downlights create the sense it's chunky pepper paste. The menu includes seafood, Australian steak and New Zealand mover lights don’t improve the mood, and lamb chops, share plates, pasta — the typical arefied scattered records and around covers the of livehouse, the likes ofnoble Chaka sac - whileperpetually one of closing the large time. plasma Rinky-dink TVs plays colored a sports bar fare. The drinks menu covers all Khan, James Brown, Ray Charles and more loop of old B.B. King concerts (it sits under bases too (Asahi draft and Scotch). black-and-white posters of jazz legends and a large framed poster of Mao Zedong), the The night we go, an energetic live band evenrifices a inGame pursuit of Thrones of a feature-esque wall. shrine There to theare covers a grab-bag of artists from Justin eponymous Mississippi bluesman B.B. King – screening reruns of Olympic luge. Bieber and Tracy Chapman to Wanting Qu. otherThe is tunedresult tois moreCCTV-5 Planet – the Hollywood sports channel They seem wasted on a crowd that peaks at than Hollywood Bowl, sitting somewhere seven people. But summer is nearing, and between jazz club and sports bar and doing the adjacent beer garden is a well-used space neither justice. The food is solid though. We peppered with sweating patrons drinking beer from mini-kegs. — a plate of crispy fried chicken which the In its current incarnation, B.B. Queen start with a serving of B-52 chicken (RMB65) lacks soul, though with a few tweaks, it could really cook. And still, it's reliable place to take namedwaiter poursafter the a shot 70s of new Bacardi wave 151band on or and the a group of friends for dinner and a show. fearedsets aflame. long-range It's unclear US bomber whether plane, this but dish the is plate of charcoal-black tenders are surpris- Daily, 11am-2am; 8-7 Bldg 8, 1F, Helin Qilin, Yutong ingly tender inside and very tasty. Xi Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区阜通西大街合生麒麟社8号 The beef fajitas deserve a mention as 楼1F8-7

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 57 EAT & DRINK | ADVERTORIAL

MIAM MIAM All In One by Edoardo Donati Fogliazza

iam Miam sounds like it was founded Mafter sorting through the city’s most by a pushy, flashy businessman who, chin and decided to combine them all. In re- ality,in-vogue it is fooda brand-new concepts, and defiantly exciting raised concept his whose philosophy is simple: Be there for everyone. Nestled in the basement of Galleria Mall in Sanyuanqiao, Miam Miam boasts a fresh look that is vintage enough for the Stranger also recommend going for the Accidental can also have it in the vegetarian variation Things generation, with its kitschy couches and a fully functioning vespa, and modern There’s a caveat here: You have to order Fusilli Carbonara (RMB50). the(RMB48), chop chop or, why chicken not, double(in the (RMB88).black pepper or As we said, there’s something for everyone to nameFeeling all thespirited? halftime Try show the Super celebrities Bowl of enough to satisfy the flashy Guomao dwellers. Challenge (RMB99), which does not ask you - For one, because they are delicious and two, ing on the most egregious salad bowl you’ve becauseoriental sauceMiam variation,Miam is collaborating RMB58 or RMB68). with spothere. you Grab like a spritz most inor thea negroni open-air (RMB50, food court- theever past seen. five Have years your but friends instead help entails you munchand styleRMB30 joint. during happy hour) and sit in the see if you can get all the way to the bottom. donated to their Love Is Blind Project. Also, Packed into the ambitious concept is a A timpani roll will signal whenever someone MiamBethel Miam’s China and dedication RMB5 of to your the cause order goeswill be pizza stand, a salad booth and fresh juice orders it, so the other patrons can also cheer much beyond words: They employ a visually window, but you only have to order once you on for the challenge. impaired bartender full time. at the counter and whatever you fancy will The true highlight of Miam Miam’s menu Add wraps and snacks, cocktails and reach your table in minutes. If you’re looking mocktails, juices and desserts, and have your- for (healthy) carbs, there’s an outstanding rest, comes in a generous portion. We strong- self the perfect meal. There’s something for pasta and noodle soup selection. We go dry lyis theirsuggest Banjo you Burger order it (RMB65) and try for which, yourself like the all tastes here. and opt for the Miam-Kick teriyaki salmon the incredibly juicy patty and well-balanced sauces. This treat, which comes together with Daily, 10.30am-10pm; B1/40, Galleria Mall, 5A dish that somehow makes pesto and smoked a large set of fries and coleslaw, is neither Shuguang Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区曙光西里甲5号凤凰汇 salmonpesto (RMB75), go together which like is mac a perfectly ‘n’ cheese. balanced We dry and chewy, nor heavy and soaked. You 购物中心B1 40号

58 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ADVERTORIAL | EAT & DRINK

KANPAI CLASSIC Fresh Meat

ooking for an authentic taste of Japan in - Ling in Beijing is Kanpai Classic in WF Central,China’s and it’scapital got youcity? covered. The newest Specializing open in all things yakiniku, or ‘grilled meat,’ the Kanpai Classic brand has established loca- tions in Taiwan and Shanghai, earning them

restaurant in China. the titleWith of the the goal first of Michelin-starred creating a “mecca yakiniku for mature adults,” the essence of Kanpai Classic

quality ingredients. There are three delicious - while being tended to with the utmost care reasonsis refined to cooking come here: styles chilled and the top-grade use of high- ting. Dine with company in any of their luxu- by their expert staff and enjoying the smooth Wagyu beef imported directly from Australia, qualityrious private cuts of rooms beefsteak, boasting it’s more photo-worthy than fit sounds of upbeat jazz. Now that’s a quality premiere sake brand Masuizumi from Japan views of the city or kick it alone at the open dining experience. and freshly made kamameshi, a traditional bar space. Eat your heart out with marbled rice dish cooked in a ceramic pot. cuts of Wagyu beef in a range of dishes from Mon-Fri, 5-11pm, Sat & Sun, 11.30am-3pm, The interior echoes the design of a steak- appetizers like Carpaccio to indulgent meat 5-11pm; West Building, WF Central, Shop 406, 269 house, and seeing as Kanpai Classic provides platters and stewed beef brisket ramen, all Wangfujing Street, Dongcheng (010) 6526-3699

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 59 EVENTS

Suchmos Gig Jazzy Sport Label Party DJ

HEAR

Mastermind presents a double dose of Japanese music at Yue Space this June, Nomak Music featuring DJ Mitsu the Beats and afro- beat band .A/NAOITO. DJ Mitsu the Since the release of this 2007 break- Beats has gained notoriety in recent through album Calm, Japanese musi- years, but his 2003 debut album New cian Nomak has been making waves. Awakening is where it all started. He Combining traditional Japanese forms will be joined by .A/NAOITO, a group with modern musical techniques, his that consists of 8 unique members that songs are marked by a sense of mel- have international experience, incor- ancholy due to an inclusion of flutes, porating jazz, Brazilian, Latin and rock violins, saxophones and other music influences with Afrobeat to create a that fuses the old with the new. unique sound and rhythm. Thu Jun 13, 8:30pm; RMB150 Sun June 23, 9pm; RMB180 (presale), (presale), RMB180 (door); MAO RMB220 (door); Yue Space, 7 Livehouse Wukesong, G23 Huaxing Banqiao Nanxiang, Dongcheng 北新 LIVE, 69 Fuxing Lu, Haidian 海淀区复 桥街道板桥南巷7号人民美术印刷厂内 兴路69号华熙LIVE hi-up G23

Lite Gig Yin Yang Music Festival Music

Japanese rock group Suchmos continues their China tour in Beijing this month. Formed in 2013, the sextet is currently touring to promote their latest album Anymal, released in March. Inspired by rock, jazz and hip-hop, the group derived its name from jazz musician Louis Armstrong's nickname, “Satchmo.” The band have graced the covers of various fashion and culture magazines and remain one of the signature Japanese artists speaking for the millennial generation today. Sun Jun 16, 8:30pm; RMB280 (presale), RMB380 (door); Tango, 79 Hepingli Xijie (by south gate of Ditan Park), Dongcheng 东城区和平里西街79号 (近地坛 The Yin Yang Music Festival marks its 公园南门) return this year for its sixth iteration. Boasting the incredible backdrop of the Great Wall of China, the electronic mu- Japanese math-rock band Lite is set sic festival will celebrate music culture, to rock out at Omni Space. Formed in arts and sustainability in style once 2003, the offbeat and often irregular again. This year, the festival will change time signatures of Lite combine to offer locations to the Jinshanling section of an unforgettable musical experience the Great Wall, located approximately from one of Japan's most famous prog- two hours from Beijing. Each ticket sold rock groups. Beijing will be the last leg will donate RMB30 to the City Forest of their tour, so don't miss out on what Project in Tianjin. Festival-goers are some have called “one of the most encouraged to BYOB, and it should exciting bands to emerge from Japan in be noted that glass bottles are not the last decade.” allowed. Sat June 22, 9pm; RMB150 (presale), Fri Jun 7-Sun Jun 9; RMB488 (one RMB180 (door); Omni Space; B103 day), RMB638 (presale weekend Tianqiao Arts Center, Xiachen pass); Jinshanling Great Wall, Hebei Square, Xicheng 西城区天桥艺术中心 (tickets via 247tickets.com) 下沉广场B103

60 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EVENTS

Bowie by Mick Rock Photography Yunmeng Gorge Hike

DO

Take part in one of Beijing Hikers’ many excursions outside of the city by joining them for a hike along the Yungmeng Gorge, where you can enjoy a picnic and a swim. The hike is a total of 8km, Picasso – The Birth of or approximately 3-4 hours with a Genius Exhibition two-hour drive each way. Feel free to explore the general area, or kick back, The art of Pablo Picasso makes its way relax and enjoy your surroundings. The to Beijing. This exhibition will see work bus will leave Liangmaqiao at 7.30am from Picasso's first three decades – 103 and Lido Hotel at 8am, returning to pieces in total that include paint- Beijing at 5.30pm. ings, sculptures and works on paper. Sun Jun 30, 8am- return; RMB380, Specially curated for UCCA by the RMB340 (members); Beijing Hikers; Head of Collections at Musée National pickup at Liangmaqiao or Lido (book Picasso-Paris, the event promises to tickets via beijinghikers.com) showcase one of the true modern art heavyweights and his formative years. Sat Jun 15-Sun Sep 1, 10am- 7pm; RMB60; Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA), 798 Art District 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 北京市朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 Tan Dun & Orchestre 尤伦斯当代艺术中心 National de Lyon Music

Acroyoga Beginner’s Workshop Yoga 798 Art Factory hosts an exciting exhibition featuring 65 photographs of the glam rock legend David Bowie taken by his official photographer Mick Rock. There will also be an original soundtrack for the exhibit, performance footage, filmed interviews with the iconic British photographer and more. Through Sun Aug 4, 10am-7pm; RMB108 (weekday ticket), RMB120 (weekend ticket); 798 Art Factory, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号100015 (tickets via 247tickets.com)

Come join Johanna and Patrick as they NCPA hosts the award-winning Chinese bring their unique acroyoga workshop composer Tan Dun this month. The in- to Sanlitun. Also commonly known as novative artist is famous for his scores simply 'acro,' the practice combines in movies such as Crouching Tiger, yoga, acrobatics and Thai massage Hidden Dragon along with his compo- to create a unique partner and group sitions for the medal ceremonies of activity in which someone is lifted or the 2008 Olympics in Beijing. He will lifting at all times. It often draws upon be joined by the admired Orchestre aspects of the circus arts, cheerleading National de Lyon, made up of 104 tal- and dance. Learn to lift others and be ented musicians bringing his composi- lifted at this workshop that covers the tions to life. fundamentals. Sat Jun 22, 7.30pm; RMB400-880; Sun Jun 2, 4pm-6pm; RMB200, National Center for the Performing RMB350 (couples); Sky Dance Lab, Arts, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城 5321, 3/F, Bldg 5, Sanlitun Soho, 区西长安街2号 Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北路8号 三里屯SOHO5号商场3层5321号

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 61 EVENTS

Q Mex X Gyu Tetsu New Dishes Dining Father’s Day Holiday

TASTE

Vegan Kitchen Takeover Dining Q Mex Taqueria and Japanese BBQ joint Gyu Tetsu team up to bring you the ultimate Join chef Sarah O'Connell for fusion food. Executive chefs Marcus Medina and Shoyama Shimpei have created two Indonesian street food as she takes collaborative dishes: Japanese Wagyu beef tacos topped with wasabi and seaweed Celebrate a real-life superman this over Soi Baochao in collaboration with strips, and Mexican-inspired Wagyu skirt steak marinated in pineapple, chili and ap- Father’s Day with Sunday brunches The Orchid for an 8-course vegan din- ple vinegar. Stop by Q Mex Taqueria before the middle of the month to get a taste. galore. Stay tuned for our guide on ner that is both healthy and adventur- Daily through Sat Jun 15, Q Mex Taqueria, Room 106, Jinshang Bldg, 20 the best places to treat your dad this ous. Sample dishes like gado gado (an Xinyuanli Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区 新源里西20号楼金尚首层106单元 month. Indonesian salad and one of the coun- Sun, June 16; various venues try's five national dishes), nasi goreng (fried rice) and wedong ronde (gluti- nous rice ball soup), and the chef’s take on an exciting and healthy cuisine. Sat Jun 8, 6:30pm; RMB168; Soi Baochao, 10 Baochao Hutong, The Deep Deep South Dongcheng 东城区 东城区宝钞胡 Brunch 同10号

Jing-A X Pak Pak Beer Garden Eat & Drink

They’re back! Haus of Lily hosts an- other wild and extravagant show, this time dubbed ‘The Deep Deep South’ Jing-A joins forces with Thai eatery Pak at Home Plate, complete with a hearty Pak to bring you yet another beer gar- brunch buffet. Aside from a compli- den collaboration to visit this season. mentary “welcome queen juice,” there Savory Thai snacks meet six cool Jing-A will be draft beer deals and cocktail brews at Pak Pak's new beer garden specials on all day. overlooking the CBD’s Central Park. Sat Jun 15, 11am-3pm, RMB250 Daily; Pak Pak Thai Kitchen, 1/F, Bldg (includes welcome drink); Home AB, Ocean International, 10 Jintong Plate BBQ, Sanlitun (see Listings for Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 金桐西路10 details) 号远洋光华国际AB座1层 (世贸天阶 东门对面)

62 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EVENTS

The Wizard of Oz SEE Turandot Opera Musical

Whether you're seeing this Broadway show for the first time or revisiting it, the classic adaptation of L. Frank King Lear Theater Baum's 1900 novel and subsequent King Lear has been performed thou- 1939 film will dazzle you in equal sands of times, but Tadashi Suzuki is measure. This updated musical is set to determined to tell its story with his hit Beijing this June with fresh, newly own unique spin. An edited, cut and designed sets. Experience the timeless rearranged version of the original play, music and classic story of Dorothy as Suzuki plays on the themes of tragedy, she sets off down the yellow brick delusion and betrayal by telling a story road in search of friendship and self- Giacomo Puccini's Turandot is the first western opera that the NCPA performed after of an old man hours away from death discovery. its conception. Its extravagant costumes and creative sets help to tell the story of a who sits and listens to his nurse read Thu Jun 13-Sun Jun 30, 7:30pm; cold-hearted Princess Turandot, the most beautiful Chinese princess, who gives po- him the tale of King Lear. Suzuki takes RMB280-980; Tianqiao Performing tential suitors a series of three riddles in order to receive her hand in marriage. After this classic tale fuses his trademark Arts Center, Bldg 9, Tianqiao a series of suitors lose their lives, an exiled prince of Tatary is determined to solve the style to create a narrative that is both Nandajie, Xicheng 西城区天桥南大街 riddles. The Puccini Festival Foundation has been involved in the entire process of familiar, bold and new. 9号楼g (tickets via 247tickets.com) bringing the opera to Beijing. Thu Jun 6-Sat Jun 8, 7:30pm; Thu Jun 20-Sun Jun 23, 7pm; RMB180-1000; National Center for the Performing RMB160-600; National Center for Arts, 2 Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区 西长安街2号 the Performing Arts, 2 Chang’an Jie, Sherlock Holmes: The Xicheng 西城区 西长安街2号 (tickets Sign of Four Theater via 247tickets.com)

Pingtan Impression Dance

Based on the events of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's second Sherlock Holmes tale, Blackeyed Theatre aims to bring a daring performance to Beijing audi- ences this month. Boasting romance, Yang Liping is a renowned perfor- comedy, original live music and mance art director famous for appear- unforgettable storytelling, Sherlock ing in the art show Dynamic , Holmes: The Sign of Four tells the tale of and his newest creation Pingtan Mary Morston and the mystery of her Impression highlights Pingtan, a small missing father. Holmes is tasked with island between Taiwan and Fujian, that navigating an underworld full of deceit has a rich traditional folk culture. The and lies as he works through a plot full show combines choreographed dance, of murder and stolen jewels. Blackeyed puppet and marionette shows, and Theatre company has been presenting dragon dances that draw inspiration high-quality work across England for from the Chinese folk goddess of the the past 12 years. sea, Matsu. Fri Jun 14-Sun Jun 16, 7:30pm; Thu Jun 6-Sat Jun 9, 7:30 pm; RMB80-380; Nine Theater, 17 Jintai RMB99-1080; Tianqiao Performing Xili, Xiaozhuang 朝阳区小庄金台西 Arts Center, Bldg 9, Tianqiao 里17号朝阳区文化馆内 (tickets via Nandajie, Xicheng 西城区天桥南大街 247tickets.com) 9号楼 (tickets via 247tickets.com)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 63 Expensive...... ¥ Expense Account ...... ¥¥ Highly Recommended ...... * LISTINGS Top Ten ...... ** Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * OPEN DOOR RESTAURANTS Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the The Hot One Hundred food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, About This guide represents our editors’ with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188). top 100 picks, and includes some That’s > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang have been personally reviewed by our 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) ; 98 Jinbao Jie, experts, and scored according to the Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221) cuisine, experience and affordability. Xihe Village Restaurant and Bar > Mon-Fri Lunch: 11am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5-9pm; CHINESE Sun: 11am-9pm, S9-33, 3/F, South Area of Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 19号三里屯太古里南区三层S9-33(6417 6082) 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) Honglu 红炉 The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12- 2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界酒店2 层 (5960 8822)

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am- 10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝 HongLuQuality Peking duck on theBeijing cheap? Cuisine Oh yes, 阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > it’s possible – thanks to Honglu. The popu- Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview lar restaurant serves traditional Beijing food Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza with a stylish twist (which is exactly why it’s Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung.com.cn for so crowded at lunchtime). details >Daily 11am-9.30pm, Sanlitun: Daily 11:00am- 10:00pm, 60 Meters Of No. 6 Building Sanlitun Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking South Road Chaoyang 三里屯店: 朝阳区三里屯 Duck) 南路6号楼南侧60米 (6595 9872; 6593 8970) Raffles: Resembling something between a night- Daily 11:00am-10:00pm, 5 Floor Of Raffles shopping club and a theater, the Opposite House’s center Dongzhimen Dongcheng 来福士店: 东城区东 basement restaurant proves to be more 直门来福士购物中心5层 (8409 8199; 8409 8234) than just style over substance with their range of expertly prepared classic dishes. Shanghai > Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 Shanghai Min 小南国 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230) Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Huang Ting Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity Huang Ting celebrates the sophisticated remains. flavours of fine Cantonese cuisine in an > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan atmospheric setting that recreates a Beijing Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士 nobleman’s courtyard home. A new Tea 购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional Lounge decorated with Ming Dynasty- branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental era tables and parasols serves traditional Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. Beijing snacks accompanied by more than online.thatsmags.com for details) 50 types of premium Chinese tea. >Daily, Lunch 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner 6-10.30pm, Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 B2/F, The Peninsula, 8 Jinyu Hutong, Dongcheng Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with District金鱼胡同8号王府半岛酒店地下二层 ( Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs 8516 2888 Ext 6707) (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor Peking Duck of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层S1- 30a号商铺 (6416 3469) The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing COMBAL BY TIAGO Duck) ** Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has Sichuan/Hunan widened its predominantly Cantonese Chuan Ban 川办 * Art Feeds the Soul and Sichuan horizons to include dim This bright, modestly decorated dining hall sum, double-boiled soups and Peking is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan duck – and the roast bird here really is restaurant. True masters of experimenting with color, led fearlessly by the masterful chef fabulous. > Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat-Sun Purida, Combal by TIAGO presents a new business lunch menu full of beauti- > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华 Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 fully arranged Mediterranean and Thai dishes. Take a break from the office 路1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188) 2277, ext. 6101) and indulge in expertly and artistically prepared dishes that will transport you Country Kitchen entirely. Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * The name ‘Country Kitchen’ may sound Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most Revel in fantastically designed and flavorsome salads and starters, like their like a diner, but a diner this is not. serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss green papaya salad or fried squid with tom yum gong sauce. Move on to the Rosewood Beijing’s resplendent Northern the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices Chinese restaurant serves elegant Hebei and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and first course where you can choose among offerings such as tom yum seafood fare unlike you’ve ever had. Excellent ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the pasta or truffle and porcini risotto. peking duck is on offer as well. palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 3F If you’re feeling particularly ravenous, opt for a main course like the tender > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号院南区 Australian veal tenderloin with crispy grissini and smoked herbs or a lighter Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店 三层S9-30 (6415 3535) 3层 (6597 8888) choice, such as the pan-seared seabass with a rich grapefruit and butter sauce. Da Dong 大董 South Memory 望湘园 For those who have room left, don’t miss dessert – the classic sticky rice Among the city’s most famous haunts, This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple and ice cream will leave you feeling utter bliss, while the passionfruit cheese- Da Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing- in the capital. The trademark shilixiang cake will give your taste buds a creamy kick of tartness. style roast duck and delectable wrap niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse fillings. The venue’s a class act and the yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and > Daily, RMB138-298 (depending on the set menu); 1/F, Tower C, COFCO Plaza, 8 plum sauce is hard to follow. meltingly tender frog dishes are among the > Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng favorites with locals. Jianguomen Outer Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区 建国门内大街8号中粮广场C座1层 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.da- > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 dongdadong.com for more locations

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Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大 Asian influences are evident throughout, 街18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes OPEN DOOR southmemory.com for more locations livening up traditional Chinese favorites. > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng Yu Xin 渝信川菜 东四六条16号 (6400 5281) Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their Jia by NUO Hotel liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into Featuring modern Ming elements with chunky strips and dressed in an addictive inspired paintings from Xu Wei, a painter, spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, inti- calligrapher and food and wine connois- mate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, seur, the quintessentially authentic house friendly service complete the experience. of agriculture produces, Jia Chinese restau- > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang rant serves exquisite traditional Cantonese 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com specialties in their purest form with chefs for other locations. hailing from Hong Kong. Using the freshest ingredients from NUO’s very own green Yunnan farms, NUO Hotel Beijing provides an alter- native green gourmet option in town. Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * >Mon-Fri: 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm; Sat-Sun: 11am- If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll 2.30pm, 5.30-10pm; 1/F, NUO Hotel Beijing, 2A have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路甲2号北京诺金酒 all just arrives in an intimate courtyard set- 店一层（5926 8281） ting. The price (RMB120/person) matches the rustic ingredients. Da Gui (Guizhou) > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nes- Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大 tled into a charming traditional alleyway. 街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430) Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian) sesame balls. They’re sensational. An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak 号 (6407 1800) interior. > Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Makye Ame (Tibetan) Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698) consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain Middle 8 Restaurant 中8楼 * serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb. > Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街 甲11号 (6506 9616)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like da- panji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人 体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741) WESTERN An oasis at the top of Taikoo Li, Middle 8 is the go-to destination for fresh authentic Fine Dining Yunnan cuisine. The restaurant, stylish yet understated, has plenty of flavorsome well- Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * priced dishes and a killer view to boot. Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not > Sanlitun: Daily 11am-10pm, Taikoo Li Sanlitun here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, South South Area F4, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太 meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the 古里南区4层(6415 8858); Indigo: Daily 11am-10pm, Piedmont wine it is named after. Jiuxianqiao Road No.20 Indigo F2 , Chaoyang 朝阳区 > Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton 酒仙桥路20号颐堤港2层(8420 0883); Zhongguancun: Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Daily 11am-10pm, Zhongguancun Plaza Pedestrian Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿 Street, No.R17, Haidian海淀区中关村广场步行街R17 酒店内 (5908 8151) 号(5172 1728); Fenglan: Daily 11am-10pm, Xizhimen North Street No.32 Maples International Center Blok Maison Flo ¥¥ (French) * B, 1 Floor, Haidian海淀区西直门大街32号枫蓝国际中 Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass 心B座1层(6223 5583) fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 Youyun > Daily, 10am-11pm, 63 Babaokeng Hutong, each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. Beixinqiao, Dongcheng 东城区北新桥八宝坑胡同63号 The grandeur is matched only by the ser- 6407 2050 / 185 1092 0709 vice, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience. Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 > Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on 阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135) Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including JING AT THE PENINSULA BEIJING HOTEL the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, The Georg ** lemongrass shrimp and banana leaf This hutong mansion has an elegant wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us restaurant, leather-couched lounge area, Spring in the Jing crawling back. sleek bar and sick location near Houhai. But > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东 most importantly, it has some of the most 城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407) thoughtful, innovative cuisine in town. Go Even with summer days within reach, springtime is in full bloom at The for a dinner you won’t forget. Peninsula Beijing Hotel. The spring-inspired creations at the hotel’s esteemed Dumplings >10.30am-midnight (dinner 6-10.30pm), closed Mondays; 45 Dongbuyaqiao Hutong, Dongcheng 东 restaurant Jing were designed to be shared, featuring fresh and seasonal ingre- Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 城区东不压桥胡同45号 (8408 5300) dients. Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump- Start with some flavorful highlights from Jing’s a la carte menu, like the lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under Héritage ¥¥ RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao A French country-style chateau in the pan-fried scallops with vegetables and juicy tomato salsa or opt for the more silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with lavish Schrenki caviar and lemon paste. Continue on to more filling dishes like Michelin star restaurant experience and an options and authentic Sichuan food. the yellow fin saku tuna tataki, made with citrus mayonnaise and herb oil, or > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967) restaurant one of the best French dining the mushroom consommé with porcini mushrooms, hazelnut and spring onion. experiences in town. Looking for a refreshing pick-me-up at lunchtime? Try Jing’s set lunch Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommen- Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座 menu, ideal for both casual lunch dates or business meetings. With a rotating dation the prices have risen and the walls 索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) list of offerings including signature delights like their Burrattina with almond are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – TRB Forbidden City TRB 紫禁城店 ¥¥ ** and hazelnut or the lighter Parma ham with arugula. Move on to mains like are still fantastic. > No.95 Donghuamen, Dongcheng District东城区东 spiced crab risotto, complimented by sautéed vegetables, ginger and lemon- 华门大街95号(故宫东华门东侧 (6401 6676) > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, grass. Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826) TRB Hutong TRB 胡同店 ¥¥ ** And don’t forget dessert – Jing’s handcrafted treats are also made to share > No.23 of Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District东城区 沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 近五四大街/嵩祝寺及智珠寺 (if you can share, that is). Regional (8400 2232) > Mon-Fri, noon- 2.30pm; RMB140 (a la carte menu), RMB198 (set lunch menu); Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Mio ¥¥ Jing at The Peninsula Beijing Hotel, 8 Jinyu Hutong, Dongchen 东城区 金鱼胡同 Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight to 8号王府半岛酒店 restaurant. Eastern European and Central your table.The Chef crafts a superb squash

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 65 LISTINGS

tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with Jing OPEN DOOR desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu. Jing Restaurant is a unique dining venue, >Daily lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm, dinner 5.30pm celebrating contemporary French dining -10.30pm, Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao with Asian inspirations by Chef De Cuisine Lu, Chaoyang, 朝阳区亮马桥路48号北京四季酒店 Julien Cadiou in a stylish setting evoking a (5695 8888) mystical Chinese garden. >Daily, Lunch 12am-2.30pm; Dinner 6-10.30pm, B1/F, Grange Grill ** The Peninsula, 8 Jinyu Hutong, Dongcheng District金 Located in the Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 鱼胡同8号王府半岛酒店地下一层 (8516 2888 Ext 6714) Grange Grill serves up some of the city’s best steak, seafood and grill offerings. The Lin’s Dining Lounge restaurant’s welcoming decor provides a > Daily 11am-10pm, 2/F, New Grand Dynasty Hotel, relaxing atmosphere to enjoy a cocktail or 58 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街58号新大 a glass of fine vintage from the extensive 宗饭店二层(6500 6766) wine collection. Be sure to try the ‘luxuri- ous oyster feast,’ where you can enjoy the Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * delicacy raw, grilled or with cheese. A perpetually busy lunch and evening > Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, Sat and Sun spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill 11.30am-3.pm; Dinner: Daily 5.30-10.30pm; The for modernising South American-style Westin Beijing Chaoyang 7 North East Third Ring dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open Road, Chaoyang 东三环北路7号 (5922 8888) kitchen. > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon- Contemporary Western 2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 Bistrot B 6030) Rosewood Beijing’s exquisite French res- taurant is the sort of place chefs like to eat. The English Tearoom英国茶房 Expect lavish luxury. >Daily 10am-9.30pm; 101, Bldg 10, North area of Xiangyun Town, 9 Antai Dajie, Shunyi 顺义区安泰 > Daily, 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 1F 大街9号院中粮祥云小镇北区10号楼101(8047 9661 Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, / 8047 9661) Daliy 10am-7pm Creativity Garden,1 Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店 ; Shunhuang Lu Sunhe xiang,Chaoyang 朝阳区孙河 3层 (6536 0066) ， 乡顺黄路甲1号创意园内(8459 4407) Caribeño (Latin) TrEat Restaurant & Bar. Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes Situated on the fifth floor of Oakwood from all over the Latin continent here. The Residence Damei Beijing with high ceilings Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is and floor-to-ceiling windows, fine city excellent – as are the Mojitos. > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 views complement the delicious a mixture Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中海 of traditional European food and Western 广场北楼1层 (5977 2789) comfort foods, as well as Asia dishes. >5/F, Damei Center, Bldg 1, 7 Qingnian Lu, Chaoyang Chi (Organic, Fusion) District 朝阳区青年路7号达美中心1号楼5层 (8514 2211) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced. Sizzler From the owners of neighboring Saffron. Sizzler invented ‘casual dining’ in Australia > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 when it introduced the first soup, salad, Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 pasta and fresh fruit concept. Since those 67号 (6445 7076) pioneering days, it has expanded its ‘classic grill’ to include, not only steak and sea- COMBAL盉by Tiago food, but also delicious chicken dishes, BBQ >127-129, 1/F, Tower C, Cofco Plaza, 8 Jianguomen ribs, combination meals and burgers. Neidajie, Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内大街8号 ‘Variety’ and ‘freedom to choose’ set Sizzler 中粮广场C座一层127-129单元 (6528 2280) apart from other dining experiences. At Sizzler customers are free to control the C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * volume, nutritional balance and variety of This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh each meal by ordering from the grill and shells from Canada, South Africa, France, helping themselves to our famous soup, USA and more – and they are well worth salad, pasta and fruits. the price. The fries are the best we’ve had >All stores open daily, 10am-10pm ;Wangfujing in Beijing, beer and wine selection also Oriental Plaza Store 王府井东方广场店 (8518 6315); excellent. Chongwenmen Glory Mall Store 崇文门国瑞购物中心 > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, 店 (6714 0399); Wangjing Capital Mall 望京凯德购物 Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新 中心店 (6471 3876); Wanliu BHG 万柳华联商场店 (8258 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886) 9405) Wan Shoulu Crystal Capital Mall 万寿路凯德晶 品店 (6826 086); Xizhimen Capital Mall 西直门凯德购 Feast (Food by East) 物中心店Mall (5830 2199); Sanlitun Shimao Gongsan Bustling café with a philosophy of ‘Simple 三里屯世茂工三店 (8400 4014); Changying Paradise things, done well’. International favorites, Walk 常营龙湖天街店 (8539 0438); Tianjin Joy City 天 using freshest ingredients , cooked on the 津大悦城店 (8728 1620) spot. >Daily 6am-10.30pm, 2/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Tomacado Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒店2层 Tomacado is indeed a mash-up of ‘tomato’ 8414 9820 and ‘avocado’ – and while you’ll certainly BRASSERIE 1893 find these ingredients on the menu, you George’s Bar & Restaurant can also expect pleasant drinks, light soups George’s Bar offers specially handcrafted and heartier main courses from this charm- A Tale of Two Cities cocktails featuring admirable art master- ing cafe. Fowers are also available for sale. pieces blending with copperish elements. > Daily 10am-10pm (Lunch start from 11am, Only Afternoon tea set for two at CNY288 is afternoon tea served on Mon-Fri 2.30-5pm), No. Travel from New York to Paris, without taking a flight or using up a single available from 3-5pm daily. Gentlemen’s 19/20, B1/F, Jia Ming Center, 27 Dongsanhuan Beilu, vacation day. How, you may ask? Head over to Brasserie 1893, where they’ve Night every Saturday that men enjoy Buy Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路27号嘉铭中心地下一层 19/20号(6500 3354) launched their brand-new ‘New York to Paris’ Sunday brunch. 1 Get 1 on drinks. George’s Restaurant presents creative world classic cuisine VIC Set inside the charming Waldorf Astoria Beijing hotel, the gourmet restau- that revolves around local ingredients Not to be confused with the notorious with exquisite touch that introduces an rant invites travelers and foodies to join them on a gastronomic journey from nightclub of the same name, this VIC is authentic yet distinctive palette. Daily the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restau- one exciting cultural hub to the other. Let your taste buds discover exquisite special menu awaits you. rant. All the major world cuisines are in dishes full of distinctive flavors and seasonal ingredients reminiscent of each vi- >Daily 11am-2.30pm; 5.30-10pm, Hotel éclat Beijing, 9 attendance here – make sure you pay brant city, as you journey from sumptuous seafood platters and shareable bites Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号北京怡 亨酒店L1 (8561 7758) special attentions to the French-inspired to delectable main courses and lush cheese trolleys. breads and pastries – as is the customary The first stop is New York – a sleepless city of skyscrapers and opportunity. Grill 79 (Steak) Sunday champagne brunch. With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Here you can revel in classics like the Waldorf’s eggs benedict with black pep- ably make it onto the list even if the food Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座 per potatoes and onions, giving the famed soft poached eggs an extra burst of was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then 索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) that the kitchen is superb, and supported Yi House (Contemporary Western) flavor, along with fried chicken and waffles, the unusual but heavenly food pair- by one of the most extensive wine lists in Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great ing originating in Harlem back in the 1930s. town. tasting brunch is bettered only by their Paris calls with elegant yet simple plates like French onion soup simmered > Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz slowly for a rich result, bursting with flavor in every spoonful, featuring Comte Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店79楼 brunches with lobster and champagne. (6505 2299 ext 6424) > Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 cheese and caramelized onion toast as the finishing touches. Don’t miss the Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 duck foie gras terrine, first introduced in the Parisian island of Ile de la Cite in Hulu Modern European Cusine by TRB 2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818) 1870, made with pistachios, cherry chutney and port wine jelly, all of which add 琥禄 现代欧洲风格 > S4-32,Taikoo Li South,19 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang Wood >Daily 10.30am-11pm, Lakeside Gourmet Street, a delightfully sweet and refreshing flavor to the dish. District朝阳区三里屯北路19号三里屯太古里南区3层 Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 S4-32 (6512 5701) After brunch, it’s time to head home happy and full – without the miser- 朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾南边湖畔美食街 近南边地面 停车场 5726 8255 able trip back to an airport, thankfully. JF Royal Teahouse > Daily, noon-3pm; RMB388/person (subject to 15% service fee); Brasserie 1893 >Daily 10am-9:30pm;B215 China World Trade Center ’ Tower 3, Jintong East Road,Chaoyang Beijing 北京市 Stuff d (Contemporary Western) at Waldorf Astoria Beijing, 1/F Waldorf Astoria, 5-15 Jinyu Hutong, Dongcheng 朝阳区国贸商城区域3 地下二层B215(8535 1625) The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage 东城区金鱼胡同5-15号 (8520 8989)

66 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it Eudora Station 亿多瑞站 Brotzeit offers its customers a unique expe- hospitality combines with the best in all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus. > (Near Lidu place))No 6,Fangyuanli Chaoyang 朝阳 rience with authentic German cuisine and contemporary Western cuisine to offer > Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang 区 芳园西里6号(丽都广场对面)(6437 8331, 6437 8334) world famous German beers in a casual en- a versatile meeting and dining area for Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308) vironment. Coupled with its contemporary friends, family and business associates on Home Plate BBQ * setting and unique brand appeal, Brotzeit the 2nd floor of our the Regent Beijing. Café/Deli/Sandwich Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the is distinct from the traditional-style German > Lunch: Mon–Fri, 11.30am-2pm; Dinner: Mon–Sun, popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker restaurants still seen in Germany and other 6-10pm, Regent Beijing, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng Café Flatwhite barbecue joint, that blossoms in the parts of the world. District 东城区金宝街99号北京丽晶酒店 (8522 1888) Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches > NL7006 Guomao Phase 3B, Building 17, 1 uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its are the favorites, followed by baby-back Jianguomen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大 Florentina 翡冷翠意大利餐厅 tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken 街1号17号楼国贸商城北区7层NL7006(6505 6068); F109, Florentina serves authentic Italian fare in and brunch options, all served alongside care of, too. 1/F, Grand Summit, Building 5, 19 Dongfang Donglu, low-key, yet elegant surrounds. Cuisine is some of the best coffee in Beijing. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m Chaoyang 朝阳区东方东路19号外交公寓官舍南区1层 high-end, the environment is relaxed. A > Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), F109 (8531 5166) beautiful outdoor terrace makes this place 798 Dashanzi Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口, a godsend for Lido residents. Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Hacker-Pschorr Brauhaus > Daily 11-late (Kitchen serves until 10pm), 1/F, Bldg 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see www. If you’re looking for authentic German 2, No. 6 Yard, Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西 13051771436); Jianguomenwai Media Center Store: thatsmags.com for details) fare and, most importantly, German-style 路6号院2号楼1层(8431 0027) No.13 Bldg, Jianguomenwai DRC, 1 Xiushui Street, beer, then you can’t go wrong with Hacker- Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街1号建国门外外交公寓13号楼 NOLA Pschorr Brauhaus. Made from centuries-old Mercante ¥ * 1层东北角 8532 2633 ；Jianguomenwai DRC Store: N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the recipes – and in accordance with the 1516 Old World family charm in an intimate Building 7-1-11, 1 Silk Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街 leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, German Beer Purity Law – the brews here hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, 1号建国门外外交公寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / 18701092189); shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, are some of the finest in Beijing. Prost! service) slows with a rustic menu from - FFCStore:-107,B1/F,Fortune Financial Center,5 jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – Dongsanhuan Zhonglu,Chaoyang District朝阳区东 > Room 3, Building 3, No 12 ,Xindonglu Chaoyang 朝 logna offering an assortment of homemade yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers 三环中路5号楼财富金融中心1层107 (6596 9108); China 阳区 新东路12号院3号楼3门(5323 3399) pastas and seasonal mains. Central Mall Store:L315,China Central Mall,Chaoyang and cocktails also make NOLA a popular > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, District朝阳区华贸中心写字楼三层L315单元 (8588 watering hole. Paulaner Brauhaus Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098) 7978)www.cafeflatwhite.com, cafeflatwhite@hotmail. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, com, WeChat username: Cafe-Flatwhite Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the Tiago Home Kitchen (8563 6215) hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the Even the most exacting palettes are delight- Café Zarah (Café) * The Big Smoke * provinces. It can be pricey but is usually ed by TIAGO, whose team prepares globally A smart new interior and menu for this Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. sourced ingredients and sustainably grown longstanding cafe has propelled it from upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full > Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao produce. TIAGO’s dining experience is dis- hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 tinctly Italian, but its menu also offers such airy and with a terrace for summer, the only chicken via Uncle Otis). 3388 ext. 5732) classics as Australian steaks and Boston lob- downside is it’s always packed. > Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. ster - plus a wide selection of salads, pizza, > Daily 9.30am-midnight，42 Gulou Dongdajie, First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Italian pasta and desserts. Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807) Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸 >Indigo: Daily 11.30am-10pm, Shop L173, Indigo Mall, 福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. Bocca Della Verita ¥ 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐 Domain 域 uncle-otis.com) Good-value homestyle Italian is the order 堤港购物中心L173商铺(6438 8772); Chaoyang Joy City: A blend of café, business center and of the day at this little-known spot in Daily 11am-10pm, 5F50/6F, Chaoyang Joy City, 101 lounge, it has a gentle buzz all of its own. The Woods * Beixinqiao. Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳北路101号朝阳 For privacy, Domain also provides worksta- New York native-owned, Manhattan-style > Dinner: 5-10pm; Lunch: 10am-3pm; 3/F, 277 Dong- 大悦城5F50/6F(8558 3892) tions equipped with computers and ipads. restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- zhimen Nei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门内大街 >Daily 7am-8pm, 2/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple 277号三楼 雍和宫大街和北新桥头条交叉处的四层商业 Opera Bombana ¥ Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒店2层 than that. 楼三楼 (6455 3832, 1391 0969 240) Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three (8414 9830) > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, Michelin stars to his name, earned at his No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新 Annie’s ¥ * wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Ricci 城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380) Now a certified Beijing institution, Annie’s Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit serves up the city’s most reliable Italian do so outside of his native land, and cer- (duh), this creative café has a funky, kooky- Burgers fare. Delivery is free anywhere between tainly the only to have opened a restaurant meets-organic vibe and serves up some of Line 5 and the the Fifth Ring Road (call for in Beijing. the best casual western food in town, and Blue Frog delivery prices outside this area), and can > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green a great brunch at the Wudaokou location Blue Frog is pleased to introduce a creative be ordered in English between 10.30am Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 (Chaoyang branch closed weekends). new Drinks Menu. As the new year begins, and 10.30pm from www.annies.com.cn. 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177) > 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 this new menu will wake up everyone’s Alternatively, drop in to your local branch. Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 taste buds with a bevy of specialty and > All open Daily,10.30am-11pm; Beijing Riviera: op- Ponte 号院清华科技园D座1楼 (8215 8826 ) original cocktails, mocktails, shots, beer, posite west gate of Lane Bridge Villa, Shunyi 朝阳 A cozy and vintage ambient to enjoy a wine and healthy drinks inspired by popu- 区来广营东路5号长岛澜桥别墅西门对面尚古城一楼 more high level take on Italian and Europe- The Rug (Contemporary Western, lar ingredients. (8470 4768); Lido: Jiangtai Lu, opposite United Family an cuisine. Ponte Deli offers a rich choice of Organic) * > All open Daily 10am-late; S2-30, Level 3, S2 Tower, Hospital 朝阳区将台商业街4号楼2楼和睦家医院对面 imported Italian cheese and cold cuts, but With ingredients supplied by local organic 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里 (6436 3735); Wangjing: 2F, beside the Daimler Tower, also freshly baked bread and viennoiserie. LSH Plaza, 8 Wangjing Jie 朝阳区利星行广场A座戴勒 farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an 屯太古里南区三楼S2-30 (6417 4030) ; No.167, 1/F, 18 Italian aperitif every Friday and Saturday emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号1层167 姆大厦裙楼2层近望京商业中心 (8476 0398); Chaoyang Park: West Gate of Chaoyang Park 朝阳区朝阳公园老 evening from 6:30pm till 8:00pm. ranging menu has something for everyone, 号 (8426 0017) ; No.125, 1/F, Bldg 1, Sanfeng(North), > Daily 6.30 am(for breakfasts in Ponte Deli) - Chaoyang 朝阳区三丰北里1号楼1层125号 (8561 2665) ; 西门南侧 (6591 1931); Sanlitun: China View Building, especially green types, bored foreign moms opposite East Gate of Workers’Stadium 朝阳区工体 10:00pm, 1-06, 1/F, Bldg 15, Zone 1, 6 Dongsihuan and freelance Macbook types. Unit 15-16, 1/F, Bldg AB, Ocean International Center, Beilu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东四环北路六号上东商 10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区金桐西路10号远洋光 东门对面中国红街一楼 (8587 1469); Ritan Park: Ritan > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am-10:30pm; 业广场 滨河花园 一区15号楼1层1-06 (6591 1931) 华国际中心AB座一层15 16单元 (8590 3168) High Life, 3F, north of Ritan Park 朝阳区神路街39号 Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu 日坛上街3-108号 (8569 3031); The Place: East of the (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang 朝 Place, south of Central Park 朝阳区金桐西路10号远 Pizza 阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) W&T BAGELS Salads, Sandwiches & Pizza, Super price 洋光华国际中心AB座1层 (8590 6428); Guomao: Ruisai (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie Business Building (southest of Guomao subway) 朝 La Pizza (see online.thatsmags.com for details) Mojito, Daily fresh Handmade Bagels. Small 阳区东三环南路2号瑞赛大厦商务楼1层 (6568 5890); Among the upper echelons of Beijing Café & Bar from Jacky’s. Sunshine 100: Guanghua Lu, opposite Sunshine 100 pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl TRIBE * >Daily 9am-midnight, 1/F, FX Hotel, 39 Maizidian Building 朝阳区光华路阳光100公寓对面首经贸南门 with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle Xijie, ChaoyangDistrict朝阳区麦子店西街39号富驿酒 (858 98366) manners. Further branches in Solana and 店一层 185 1119 5551 and grain bowls are as tasty as they are pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in holistic, and there are more superfoods in Assaggi ¥ * Sanlitun 3.3 one single dish than we even knew existed. German This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy > Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, Come hungry, leave basking in the warm district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路33 Drei Kronen 1308 * glow that comes from knowing that you summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth 号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582); Solana Branch: are eating well. Kombucha is the icing on Authentic (truly – when they say 1308 they a return visit. SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, the (organic, locally-sourced) cake. mean it) displays of armour and brewing > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiao- Chaoyang 朝阳公园西路6号蓝色港湾3号1层 SA-48 ( > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View kits draw regular evening crowds for the jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508) 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路 superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧(8587 1899) (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed Bene ¥ * 阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都SH1112号(5900 3112); La on-site). Chef Ricci will have you singing like a sopra- Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区 Wagas (Contemporary Western) > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti no with his pork ravioli and prize-winning 三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 (5136 5990) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element 层(6503 5555) extensive wine selection. Tube Station Fresh offers some of the best and most > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza affordable Western lunch options in town. Bodensee Kitchen Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a Bodensee Kitchen is a new German Res- Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995) be the biggest in town. crowd pleaser. taurant in Beijing, located at the 2nd Floor > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri- > Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li South, at South German Bakery (Lucky Street). BK’s Tavern Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 At Bodensee Kitchen, two Germans, and BK’s Tavern shares your tiredness and Beijie, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装大厦3层 太古里南区三层 (6416 5829) > Additional locations one Austrian, aim to bring back authentic, serves you leisure with surprises. Good 3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see traditional, home made German-Austrian- drink for an old friend of since. branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana www.thatsmags.com for details) Swiss cuisine from around the beautiful >Daily, Mon-Sun 11am-10.30pm, 39 Maizidian Street by and Weigongcun, see www.online.thatsmags.com Lake of Constance region. You will find top the side of Liang Ma River, Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦 for details) MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * quality German-Austrian-Swiss cuisine and 子店街39号亮马河南畔(8595 9609) Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind a large variety of German beer and wines. of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio And all this in a traditional and comfortable Cepe ¥ Mexican/Tex Mex In a city inundated with Italian offerings, space, which also has a great selection of German restaurant setting with friendly The Mission Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more and warm service. Bodensee Kitchen also The Mission Mexican Grill is on, well, a mis- attention to the smallest detail – everything indulgent. offers great Catering Packages and Offers sion – to bring quality grab-and-go burritos > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am- from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is – no matter whether you need a small or and tacos to the good people of Chaoyang. 11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu import quality, and the wine is superb. big Catering, Bodensee Kitchen can help Stop by for tasty, fresh Mexican dishes us- Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 6079) you out! > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz-Carlton ; Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 Chaoyang Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, ing high-quality ingredients, and customize >2/F, South German Bakery, 27 Lucky Street, your order at their burrito bar. Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 朝阳公园路6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳 Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒 >Daily 10am-10pm, China World Mall store: NL4020, 号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259) 公园路好运街27号德南面包房二楼 (1314 685 2613) 店大堂 (6601 6666) L4 North Zone, China World Mall 朝阳区国贸商城北 区4层NL4020 (8535 1191); Central Park Plaza store: 7-9, American/BBQ/Grill Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant Daccapo Italian Restaurant An irresistible warmth of traditional Italian 1/F, Building 7, Central Park Plaza, 10 Chaoyang Park 博璨德国啤酒餐厅 South 朝阳公园南路中央公园广场A7-109 (6586 1180);

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 67 LISTINGS

Wangjing store opening soon: 206, 2/F, RADIANCE, 6 the party started. Good-enough cocktails are Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒店1层 influences resulting in lots of bold flavors Wangjing Dongyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京 offered but mostly it’s about the music, man 8414 9815 and bright colors. The interiors are just as 东园6号楼金辉大厦2层206单元 (6478 8660) >Daily 11.30-3am, 7th Floor, North Zone, China World loud as the flavors – this place is colorful Mall, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) – and we love it. Nyonya goes beyond the Taco Bar 阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城三期北区7层 (6500 7579) As much a California roll joint as true requisite laksa and satay. Rising from the ashes of its deceased Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite >NL5008, 5/F, North Phase, Bldg 17, China World hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, Asian among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing Mall, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District popular and able to produce some of the set, though less so among sashimi purists. 朝阳区建国门外大街1号院17号楼国贸商城北区五层 most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only Indian > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm; 2/F, Heqiao Bldg NL5008 (8415 0863) RMB45 for three and great cocktails to C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号 complement. Raj 和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations Malacca Legend > Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun Tucked away in musty old building just un- in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see Malaysian food with a view, this spacious 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, derneath the drum tower, this curryhouse www.online.thatsmags.com for details) and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 may look Chinese but everything on the Shunyi’s Roma Lake and at a new unit in 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026) menu is authentic Indian, espcially the Inagiku * the heart of the city at The Place, making a rather fine naan. This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest great spot for their beef rendang or green Q Mex Bar & Grill > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie and most celebrated restaurants is as near curry prawns. > Sanlitun Courtyard (across from Salsa Caribe, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675) to perfection as you’re likely to find. > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Roma Lake: 6 Luodong Lu, nearby Bookworm), Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, Luogezhuang Village, Hoshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区 机电研究院餐饮街内 6585 3828 the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) 后沙峪镇罗各庄村罗马湖东北三路6号C院 (8049 8902); is not to be missed. Signature: Shop L203, 2/F, The Place, 9 Guanghua Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (Korean- > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶2层L203 Mexican fusion) Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, (6587 1393) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生 hutong concept is truly one of a kind in 活3层315室 (8517 2838) Makan Kitchen Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibim- A unique restaurant offering varied South- baps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Sake Manzo * east Asian flavors and Chinese cuisines. Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic The barmen here are serious about Tuck into a buffet featuring regional Asian Cali’ cocktails, too. their sake. Boasting one of the best stations, a dedicated fresh juice bar and > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays); 14 stocked drinks cabinets in town with live stations to whet your appetite. With a Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 over 60 different sakes on offer, this beautiful private dining room for functions 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352) super-cool little eatery is the perfect or meetings in comfort and style, Makan place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. Kitchen is the perfect venue for a relaxing Steak The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the get-together or a delightful weekend beer-marinated chicken is out of this brunch. Char Dining Room & Lounge world. One of the very best and least >Mon-Fri, Breakfast: 6-10am, Lunch: 11.30am- Char is a Premium Steak house; a lifestyle appreciated restaurants in town. 2.30pm, Dinner: 6-10pm; Sat-Sun, Breakfast: 6-11am, concept, modern with live entertainment Ganges > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Lunch: 12-2.30pm, Dinner: 6-10pm, 2/F, Main Tower, to fascinate customers with a hint of class We’ll take the risk of making a bold state- Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608 Hilton Hotel, 1 Dongfang Lu, Dongsanhuan Beilu, and flair. Exceptional quality to truly reward ment: Ganges Indian Restaurant has one of Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路1号北京希尔顿酒 guests and makes Char Dining Room & the best menus in town. At Ganges, every Yotsuba ** 店2层 (5865 5020) Lounge the place to be seen. dish comes with a story, taking diners on It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu >Daily, Lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5.30-10pm; a culinary journey through the flavors of RMB1,000), but what would you expect Singapore Seafood Bar: 10pm-1am. 3/F, InterContinental Beijing India with its original and authentic offer- from some of the best sushi in town? > China World Shopping Mall Branch: Daily 11am- 10pm, NL4010, North Area of China World Shopping Sanlitun, 1 South Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 ings. Sample the huge menu with their buf- Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is 阳区南三里屯路1号北京三里屯通盈中心洲际酒店三 a cut above. Mall, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 fet lunch at the Sanlitun and CBD locations 国门外大街 号国贸商城北区 层 (8516 0065) > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. Sanlitun 1 NL4010 (8595 0251/8595 for just RMB60 per person. 0361); Parview Green Branch: Daily 11am-10.30pm, > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2/F, branch: 2 Sanlitun Bei Xiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳 Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * 区三里屯北小街2号 (6464 2365); Lido branch: 2F, 1/F, Tower C, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门 朝阳区东大桥路 号侨福芳草地购物中心 Meat so tender the knife falls through it: No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路 Chaoyang 9 C 外大街28号2层 (6417 0900) ; Lidon store: 38 Fangyuan 座1层(东大桥地铁站) ( 8518 8811) ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide Xilu, Jiuxianqiao, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥芳 9-3号2层 (8420 0998) praise. Expensive, but where else are you 园西路38号 (5135 8353 / 8430 8700); CBD: 138A, B1/F, Susu (Vietnamese) going to get steak this good? (Try the The Place, 9Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区 Sui Ka RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) Is this what after-work hangouts are The first step is finding it. Follow that up 光华路9号世贸天阶1号楼 (6587 2999); Shimao Dept with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Store: Room 202, No.1 Shimao dept store, Gongti like in Japan? We’re not sure, but we Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号丽 Beilu, Chaoyang District朝阳区工人体育场北路十三号 hope so: This charming izakaya nails tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch 晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) 院一号楼世茂工三二层202 (6416 0181); Haidian: 6-02-01 it when it comes to sake selection and Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, Wudako U Center, 28 Chengfu Lu, Haidian District海 fried delights to munch alongside it. stews, soups and la Vong fish. O’Steak 淀区成府路28号优盛大厦6-02-01 (6262 7944) >Daily 5pm-1am, Ichibangai First Avenue Food > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong 东城区钱粮胡同西巷 号 A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that Court, Zaoying Nanli, Maizidian, East 3rd Ring Xixiang, Dongcheng 10 (8400 rare anymore, and here we have affordable Road, Chaoyang朝阳区东三环农展馆北路宾都苑 2699) but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the 东侧一层底商一番街内 (137 1692 7543) Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic Vegetarian French bistro – not a Guinness in sight. Korean > Daily midday-midnight, Xingfu: No.55-7 Xingfucun Lotus 莲花空间 Zhonglu, opposite of April courmet, Chaoyang 朝 Ai Jiang Shan > China World Shopping Mall Branch: NL4006, North 阳区幸福村中路55-7杰作大厦底商绿叶子超市斜对 This upscale seafood restaurant proves Area of China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomen 朝阳区建国门外大街 号国贸 面 (8448 8250) ; Central Park: No.o103 building 20, Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 1 that chargrill and composure can go 商城北区NL4006 (8527 4868); Financial Street Branch: Central Park, No.6 Chaowai Avenue, Chaoyang 朝阳 together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch 区朝外大街6号新城国际20号楼103 (6533 6599); shunyi: Daily 11am-9pm, L220, 2/F, Seasons Place Mall, 2 is an absolute bargain. 西城区金城坊街 号金融街 No.11-102 Shine Hills, No.9 Antai Avenue, Shunyi Jinchengfang Jie, Xicheng 2 > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 购物中心2层东侧L220 (6622 0515) 顺义区后沙峪安泰大街9号祥云小镇南门 11号楼102 9.30pm; 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 (8048 5080) Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) 外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (5109 6036/6037) Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * see www.thatsmags.com for other locations) Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard South-East Asian in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) reasonably priced and they offer cook- 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 IN·KITCHEN When it comes to Malay-style food in a ing classes as well. North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 The go to curry house among Beijing’s hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, > Daily 10am-10pm; 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, 号2层 (6584 6270) homesick Indian community, this ever Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, it’s something of a niche category, but then Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2层 popular no-nonsense restaurant has built so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- Spanish 0260 (5900 1288)(see www.online.thatsmags.com up a solid reputation thanks to its wide style chicken is pricey, but worth it. for details) range of quality dishes and particularly > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just Agua ¥ * friendly service. Looking good after a east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish recent rennovation and very available on 号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875) Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine invasion, Agua excels with reasonably JinShiSong online delivery. is by no means the exclusive preserve of priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, Mon-Fri lunch buf- 4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden fet for RMB78. 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝 The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. 阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255) Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, otherwise – found anywhere in the city. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 The Lobby serving up steaming bowls of pho with > Daily 10.30am-11.30pm (last order 10.30pm); 19 园 (5208 6188) The Lobby is the heart of every Penin- zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 sula hotel, and the restyled lounge at The frequent live indie performances. 19号 (6446 2073) Casa Talia by Tiago Peninsula Beijing presents an impressive > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west >Daily 11.30am-9pm, 01B, 4/F, Raffles City, 1 Dongzhi- setting to share the celebrated Peninsula end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡同27号 men Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号 Afternoon Tea with family or friends accom- 烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797) BARS 来福士购物中心4层01B 8409 4009 panied by live music. The Lobby also serves Purple Haze (Thai) Niajo ¥ * an a la carte breakfast, plus an eclectic TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS selection of international and Asian favorite Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches With homely Mediterranean influences and and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to About This guide represents our editors’ a charming management, Niajo is prime dishes. >Daily, 11am-11pm, After Tee 2pm-6pm 1/F, The make do for the best Thai experience in top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the Peninsula, 8 Jinyu Hutong, Dongcheng District金鱼 town. Has all the classics like veggie spring Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have paella (their star dish) together with some 胡同8号王府半岛酒店一层 (8516 2888 Ext 6764) rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and been personally reviewed by our experts, tapas and be automatically transported to curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the and scored according to the cuisine, Spain (minus the constant sunshine). Japanese seafood pad Thai (RMB45). experience and affordability. > Daily noon-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝阳 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 HAGAKI 叶书 * 区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899) (5208 6052) Serves up a selection of signature maki Arrow Factory rolls, as well as classics like tonkatsu, Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) The newest craft beer taproom on the Migas Mercado ¥ * tempura and udon, Hagaki specializes This chain specializes in Nyonya style cook- block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway A place to dance and rowl, perhaps, rather in Californian-inspired Japanese cuisine ing – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix brimming with good Anglo-Scandinavian than a drinks destination, TBAM, as on one and has a lively sushi bar. of Chinese, South-East Asian and European vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get >Daily 11am-2.30pm, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao

68 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales. 城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www. Chaoyang (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育场东路 > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua A winning combination maomaochongbeijing.com) 乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, trouble- Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店1层 > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭 [email protected], www.trouble.bar) (6561 8833) 厂胡同38号(6407 6308) Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a Yun Summer Lounge MEI 8-Bit late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior The only open-air roof lounge in Wangfu- One of the livelier hotel bars in town, Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gam- and underground soundtrack draws the jing gets set for sunset with hand crafted MEI has a nightly band, serves creatively ing – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- cocktails paired with beautiful Beijing delicious cocktails and overlooks the Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some days, quite a few old things, too). views, modern Mediterranean sharing CCTV ‘trousers.’ Don’t leave without try- real gems make up an ever-growing col- > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang plates and chilling DJ tunes. ing the frightfully delicious Panjiayuan lection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688) > Mon-Thur, 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 5pm-1am, 15/F, Bramble. RMB25 a glass. The Peninsula Beijing, 8 Jinyu Hutong, Dongcheng Mon-Wed 6pm-2am, Thu-Sat 6pm-3am, Sun 5pm- > Daily 1pm-2am; 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 Maggie’s ¥ District 东城区金鱼胡同8号王府半岛酒店15层 (8516 midnight; 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, 区北锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538) A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of 2888) Hujialou, Chaoyang District朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中 course, to the hot-dog stand outside), 心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083) China Bar ¥¥ Maggie’s has been providing its special 10 Best Livehouses Top views from the 65th floor and flash comforts for so long, it’s practically a time- O’Bar With both a fantastic cocktail menu and drinks are the attractions on offer at this honored Beijing brand – although it’s also a Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 one of the finest terraces in the city, NUO hip hotel bar. bastion of Mongolian culture. Great little livehouse near Meishuguan Hotel’s O’Bar is a sure bet for classy evening > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. drinks in the city. Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国 South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get 门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40) 门 (8562 8142) >Sun-Thr:6pm-1am;Fri-Sat:6pm-2am;2 Jiangtai bored of the drinks list quickly. Lu,Chaoyang朝阳区将台路甲2号(5926 8888) > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng First Floor Parlor 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969) First Floor is like that friend who’s too Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before Xian 仙 Bold multi – element bar Xian on the popular to properly enjoy their company. heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speak- School Bar 学校酒吧 * ground floor mixes a pub, whiskey bar, live At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with easy and you’ll fit right in. Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled music venue and games room into one regulars and the passing tourist trade all > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this vibrant entertainment hotspot. baying at the bar. A good place to meet 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135) alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by >Daily 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao new friends, perhaps. Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. > Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳 Mai Bar * Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒店1层 > Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang (8414 9810) 区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com) Understated hutong hideaway with a long 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947) list of some of the best cocktails in town. El Nido * > Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 Jianghu 江湖酒吧 Nightclubs The first hutong hang-out to patent the 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871) This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home Chocolate fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El is exactly where you’d take that friend from It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly Revolution * out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret in summer. The roast leg of mutton place Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but atmosphere is also its downfall – any show dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. next door is one of the best locally. if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia with under 40 people and you’re stuck Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng 东城 would be it. The East may be red but their looking through the windows. Hip and bottles of spirits from around RMB200, 区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089) cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman. casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings cocktails under RMB50 (including the > Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 keep things low-key enough for the get- absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776) home-for-the-babysitter crowd. The bar that began the whole Beijing mi- regular floor shows. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区日 crobrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes The Brick 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡同 号 Dongcheng 7 (6401 坛北路19号 (8561 3988) in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25- A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@ 40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- gmail.com) Dada * peppercorn ale was memorably good. the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for Reservations used to be recommended or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails Hot Cat Club 热力猫 too long, but already Dada is the hippest for their original hutong brewhouse, but (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines the opening of a wildly popular new pub Terminator) are probably needed for the Cat is the type of hard-working venue that under rock house Temple offer an intimate on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. helps cement a city’s music scene. place to nod along to an eclectic range of there instead. > Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south > Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng 东城区方家胡同46号 all things electro from the best names on 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区豆角胡同6号 Chaoyang 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子 (6400 7868) the underground scene. 号楼底商 > Daily 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong (5717 1399) ; Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 2 2-11 (134 2616 6677) 后山 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street The Post Mountain Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室 新中街乙12号 (6416 6887, www.greatleapbrewing. The Irish Volunteer Built into a man-made hill in the center (183 1108 0818) com) Everything – from the red-faced owner to of the MOMA Complex, this new ad- dition to Beijing’s growing livehouse Lantern * Heaven Supermarket the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken empire is The Hobbit meets Manhattan. Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- With as much vibe as a sterile modern- Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the gled English teachers, Heaven sells the regret. A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then. art gallery. Its imported sound system strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You and ramped floor makes for decent known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, can also hang around and appreciate the > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路311 sound and sightlines. it also makes good drinks and attracts afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, 号 (6438 5581) international electronica DJs. food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng (next to MOMA > Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s > Daily 11-4am. 14 Xindong Lu (next to The James Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号当代 Slow Boat Sanlitun Brewpub ** Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场西 Joyce), Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 6513) MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774) 门向北100米 (139 119 77989) This popular microbrewery is a Beijing Hidden Lounge * classic (if you haven’t tried the Zombie Temple 坛 * MIX Although frustrating to find, Hidden Pirate Pale Ale yet, then what are you Probably the manliest venue in town, this A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- doing?). Other things to love: quality ales dimly lit and unventilated space is owned is one of those places in Beijing you have work and comfortable seating, suggesting that change each season, a massive three- by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement to experience before you leave. Not much a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great story space, and some of the best burgers Burger) and known for late sets of hard is forbidden in this underground hip-hop prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix in town. rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs disco palace and if you don’t leave with drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have > Daily, 11am-late; 6 Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long hook-up in tow then you’re doing some- 区南三里屯路6号 (6592 5388) to call them to find it, though. drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis thing very wrong. > Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Glen ¥ Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang 朝阳区双花园 the RMB15 draught. Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (6506 9888, Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve 南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, [email protected]) endured poor service and drinks that are Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼202 (131 Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * scandalous at the price), which is located in 6107 0713) Vics Acclaimed by some foreign press as one a decidedly downbeat compound. But whis- Separated at birth from its identical twin Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * of the best bars in the world (cough), this ky lovers have been known to swear by its brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti We’ve lost more body weight than we’d not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. sweatbox meat-market chic at its very care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortu- of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It See for yourself. finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody nately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite >Daily 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区南三里屯 DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic to become one of the most infamous clubs from across the globe – were worth it. The speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) in the capital. upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat and unimpeachable cocktails. > Daily 8.30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North glands below. > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang Glen Classic ¥ Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333) > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of 朝阳区工体北路4号院 ( 6503 2757) Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng 东城 区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711） Sports Bars Jing-A Brewpub ** bar where discerning drinkers can sink In just a few years, these guys developed into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while The Local * from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding away the hours. Huge range of whiskies Hotel Bars Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come publicans with their own range of souvenir and rums are personally selected by expert into its own, with large (yet strangely owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend Atmosphere ¥¥ T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-and- Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of unobtrusive) screenings of sports and mortar brewpub, which is large, warm and you something special. political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ sociable, and has up to 16 different beers swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. on tap. minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体南路东草园26 gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. > 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村 need another. 号 (6551 6788) > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, 中路57号 China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体 北路4号院 (6591 9525) Mao Mao Chong ** Trouble Bar Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433) The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft Paddy O’Shea’s * beers. Stocks a large draft selection and sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- Centro ¥ An entire Irish-themed pub, which could infused vodka drink that’s a long way from an even larger selection of bottles. Also easily been trasnsported, untouched, from does a nice line in creative cocktails, if Although it’s no longer quite the go-to Moscow – are unique infusions using place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- a back alley in Limerick and gently depos- local ingredients and know-how. Grungey brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently ited in central Beijing. With plenty going located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash jazz performaces, spacious and recently on, including pub quiz and sports. while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to > Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai accommodate any event, meetings, and renovated lounge areas and classic drinks > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东 like the blue-cheese martini. Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 gatherings. 6290); Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back > 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 69 LISTINGS

V Sports An International Finance Centre, Chaoyang朝 5136 5432) Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 阳区平安国际金融中心商业B1层9号 5601 9664 Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and Laurent Falcon 北京和睦家医院 no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes ;WDK store: Daily 10am-22pm, Shop16/F4, > Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open WDK Shopping store, Haidian海淀区五道口购 As China’s first REAL French hair salon a claim for the champion of Beijing sports we promise each and every one of our 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm; 2 Jiangtai Road, bars. 物中心4层1415号 6266 6070 ; Heshenghui store: Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. (5927 7000 / Daily 10am-22pm, Shop B1-19, Heshenghui customers that we’ll treat your hair like it’s > Daily 5.30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, 5927 7120 Emergency Hotline);United Family CBD Mall, Chaoyang朝阳区合生汇B1层19号 5601 our own. We use only the finest imported Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333) Clinic和睦家朝外诊所 Mon-Sat, 9.30am-6.30pm, 9664 ; Pingan store: Daily 10am-22pm, Shop products to guarantee that your experi- Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai 09/B1, Ping An International Finance Centre, ence with us is as relaxing and professional Street, Chaoyang, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号万通中 BEAUTY & FITNESS Chaoyang朝阳区平安国际金融中心商业B1层9 as possible. Come in and meet our special- 心AB座2层3017室(5907 1266); Jianguomen Health 号 8444 2483 ; Taiyanggong store: Daily 10am- ist stylist and visit our facilities. Your hair and Wellness Center和睦家建国门保健中心, Wi-fi Black Golden Tanning Studio 22pm, Shop B1-09, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, deserves a true touch of French sophistica- internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm, 21 Jianguomen Chaoyang朝阳区太阳宫凯德购物中心B1-15A 古铜日晒中心 tion. Man cut 120RMB up; Women cut Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel 号 8443 0619 ; WeLife store: Daily 10am-22pm, 朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部饭店 ( 8532 Beijing is hardly the best place to pick up WeLife store, Shop B1/F, WeLife Shopping 180RMB up; Color 580RMB up; Highlight a natural tan. When it finally reaches the 680RMB up. 1221 / 8532 1678 Immigration Clinic ); Shunyi Clinic store, Chaoyang朝阳区远洋未来汇购物中心 和睦家顺义诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9.30am- warm summer, the sun’s rays struggle B1-116号 8588 6896 ; Wanliu store: Daily 10am- > SanLiTun salon: No.43 Building, SanLiTun Beijie South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街南43号楼 5.30pm, Sat and Sun, 9.30am-4.30pm.Pinnacle Plaza, to penetrate the smog. Thankfully, Black 22pm, Shop 19/F4, Wanliu BHG, Haidian海淀 Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Golden Tanning Studio is on hand to give 区华联万柳购物中心4层 8258 9517 ; Hongmei (6409 4243, 1350 137 2971); GuoMao Salon: CB1007, B1, Middle Zone, China World Shopping Mall, Shunyi District, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场806号 you that golden glow with its quick, safe store: Daily 10am-22pm, Shop 3824-1, Shanghai (8046 5432); Shunyi Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi 上海市长宁区老外街虹梅路3824-1号 021-6215 Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城中区 and effective technology. With a member- 地下一层CB1007 internet, Mon-Sat, 9.30am-7.30pm, Pinnacle Plaza, ship card, enjoy a 50-minute session for 5192 Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, RMB400 and come away with natural, Shunyi 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号 (8046 1102) healthy-looking color. Zell Cosmetic Clinic ; Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 , Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, > Sanlitun: 11am-9pm, 2/f, Bldg 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Founded by renowned dermatologist 8.30am-5pm, 2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路三里屯 Dr. Shao Lin Hong, Zell uses recognized East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号 外交 Soho3号楼2层217 (5785 3711, jusonghao@hotmail. international cosmetology techniques to 人员公寓B区官舍16号 (5927 7005 www.ufh.com.cn, com); Wangjing: 11am-9pm, Rm T5, 3/F, BOTAI perform services including laser cosmetic [email protected]) International Building, 36 Guangshun Bei Dajie, surgery, minimally invasive cosmetic sur- Chaoyang 朝阳区望京广顺北大街36号博泰国际商业广 gery, medical skincare and anti-aging. Raffles Medical 场3层T—5 (8472 2855) > Room 2002, 1/F Building AB, Wantong Centre, 6 International SOS and Raffles Medical Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街甲6号万通 Group have formed a joint venture to Alona Pilates Studio 中心1/F, 2002 (400-696-3390, www.zellbeauty.com) enhance and expand the services of Pairing up traditional Pilates with an in- its China Clinics. From March 30 the novative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates International SOS clinics in China will be offers classes designed to tone and whip Sport branded and operated by Raffles Medical you into shape fast. It also provides a with expanded services to all patients and personalized experience for all its students, Yihe 42° Hot Yoga privileged access for International SOS regardless of fitness, strength and 2 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Be- members. Patients of the clinic will con- flexibility levels. ginners! No previous experience necessary tinue to have access to the same doctors, > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! the same facilities and same level of high Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀 Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to quality care. 酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com) begin your journey into Yoga, so they are Raffles Medical Group is a leading available to answer any questions you may medical provider in Singapore and has Narcisse Beauty Brands Encompassed have. It’s a great workout for the body and been operating for 40 years with over One of a kind! A 600 m2 brand-new concept calming for the mind. Call them today on 100 clinics and hospitals in Asia. The joint of beauty salon——Narcisse, encompassed (5905 6067, 8599 7395) venture is committed to maintain the high with professional brands on skincare, > Daily 10am-8pm. 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue standard of quality with a focus on innova- manicure and hair removal. Not only can Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际 tive and expanded clinical services and 中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www.yh42.com); excellent patient care. we guarantee to give you the highest qual- 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 ity of products and treatments, but also an Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源里16号琨莎中心1座 impressive one-stop beauty experience. (5905 6065/67, www.yh42.com) 105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos. Brands inside Narcisse： com) Youngfo: Facial Cleansing Center: Clean Broadwell International Tennis Academy Out What’s Deeply Buried In Your Skin; Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis OASIS International Hospital 10+10: Minimal-Design Nail: Chic Worka- Center, this indoor club boasts a complete OASIS International Hospital specializes in holic’s Luv!; Edelweiss: Laser Hair Removal: state-of-the-art air-supported structure for serving the expatriate community with the Latest Technology, Safe&Permanent all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with latest world-class technology and a broad an advanced lighting system and controlled range of services, all in a pristine facility Deep Facial Cleaning- 880rmb/once climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect designed to provide patients with the > 10.30am-10.30pm, Bldg. 1,No.6 West Fangyuan rd, Chaoyang (inside Narcisse Beauty Brands their service and batting a few balls. Catherine de France utmost comfort, care and privacy. > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am-12.30pm; Encompassed)朝阳区芳园西路6号院1号楼水仙美容品 > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区农南路1号 Awarded best expat salon in 2014/ 2015, 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu 牌集合店内(5365 9418) 朝阳公园网球中心(400 6406 800/ 6595 8885, www. with a trained team of international and broadwell.cn1) local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985 0333, www.oasishealth.cn) Daisy’s Beauty Salon California Fitness Beijing Club salon welcomes all ages and budgets in Since 2001, Daisy’s beauty salon has California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Chil- catered to thousands of Beijing expats and wide range of hair and beauty treatments, is among the best in the region, and with dren’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院 locals and is renowned for its premium membership you have access to over 150 include manicure, pedicure and waxing. > Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, waxing services and imported wax that weekly Group X classes and a team of Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI Beiyuan Lu 北苑路小关北里甲2号 (6499 0000. con- smells like hot chocolate. If waxing isn’t professional personal trainers in Asia. Your Language: French, English, Spanish, Chi- [email protected], en.hmcare.net) your thing, the salon also specializes in membership also includes free towel usage nese, Russian. an array of other treatments including IPL and a fitness assessment. > East Avenue BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Facial Rejuvenation and lifting, a 90-minute >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang (4008 Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层(8442 5120, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所 135 2147 3492, [email protected], treatment that uses a laser to stimulate 100-988,www,californiafitness.com) > Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Wechat: CDFSalon, www.catherinedefrance.com) collagen production and soften lines. Laser Macau Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei and IPL permanent hair removal treatment Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Dajie 朝阳门北大街2号 港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9 is also proving popular and effective. Cycle China provides organized cycling 层 (6553 9752, 6553 2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic. > Daily, 10am-8.30pm, Rm301, Building B,Sunshine100 and hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as com; www.hkclinic.com) International Apartment, Guanghua Donglu, well as longer tours throughout China. HEALTH SERVICES Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东路2号阳光100国际公寓B座301 Some of their more popular tours take 室 (5100 0556 / 0557, www.daisysbeautysalon.com) cyclists through the Olympic Green, American-Sino OB/GYN/Pediatrics Ser- Tian’anmen Square, and Beijing’s tradi- vices 北京美华妇儿医院 DENTAL Beijing Hikers tional hutongs. > 18 anyuan road,chaoyang district,Beijing 北京市 Want to experience the wild, unrestored >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng 东城区景山东街 朝阳区安苑路18号 (8443 9666, bj.americanobgyn. Pu Jing Dental Clinic 浦京口腔门诊 Pu Jing dental clinic is located on the second Great Wall, away from the tourist masses? 12号 (6402 5653 ,139 1188 6524) com) Or do you just want to get out of the city floor of Nuo office building in Lidu business for some exercise? Beijing Hikers offers Heyrobics Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital district of Beijing.PJ dental has become one hikes in the countryside of Beijing every “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoy- With a zero waiting-time policy, top-qual- of the most trusted dental care providers week all year round. Hikes for all fitness lev- ingly smug grin and toned abs. The only ity inpatient facilities, home visits, night for the embassies, international schools and els! Regular hikes are priced from RMB380, fitness craze worth following in Beijing, services and transportation assistance, foreign companies.PJ Dental has cooperated with discounts for members. Cost includes Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body Amcare provides a trustworthy experi- with many insurance companies to provide hiking guide, transportation, tickets, food workout set to pumping beats – not forget- ence. English-speaking services include directly billing service. and water. We’ve also got adventures all ting the fluorescent spandex. Differing pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics. We are committed to helping you over China. classes for all abilities, check online for the > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园 achieve and maintain optimal oral health. > For more information, visit www.beijinghikers.com full schedule. 西路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. >Rm.201,204,2nd Floor,Office Building of Nuo Hotel,No.2A,Jiangtai Rd.Chaoyang District,Beijing > www.heyrobics.com, [email protected] amcare.com.cn) Shang Xia 北京市朝阳区将台路2号 诺金酒店写字楼2层201 204 Beijing International Medical Center >L118 & 119, L1 China World Mall, China World Trade 室 64371326/64371286,24hr hotline 4000 650 898 www. Center 1, Jianguomen Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 (IMC) 北京国际医疗中心 pjdental.cn HAIR SALONS Established in 1993, the International 国门外大街1号中国国际贸易中心国贸商城1楼L118 & Arrail Dental 119 (6505 3446) Medical Center-Beijing counts on an Blow+Bar expert team of foreign doctors, offering a Affiliated with the University of Pennsyl- This salon is equipped with more than vania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class Lily Nails wide range of medical services, including shampoo – the team here provides equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple A long-time favorite among locals and family medicine, psychological services, haircuts, dye, updos, hair treatments and locations across town and excellent facilities expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. more. With prices for almost everything make it one of the best dental providers nail spa; they eyelash services, of pamper- Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and listed under RMB1,000, Blow+ is a haven of in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental ing treatments and waxing too. ultrasounds are also available. English, reasonably priced good taste in Sanlitun’s services including examinations, whitening, >U Town store: Daily 10am-22pm, Shop 19B, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Arabic and Rus- root-canal treatment, orthodontics and 4/F, U town Plaza, Chaoyang朝阳区悠唐购物 3.3 Mall. They have champagne and a well- sian spoken. 中心一期4层19B号 8561 5875 ; Fulllink store: stocked bar, so bring your friends and make > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 implants. Daily 10am-22pm, Shop 29/B1, Fulllink Plaza, a night of it. Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕 >Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南角京汇大 Chaoyang朝阳区丰联广场B1-29 6588 3633 ; 朝 莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, >3/F 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 厦201室 (6567 5670); Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, Yansha store: Daily 10am-22pm, 09/B1, Ping 阳区三里屯路 号 服 www.imcclinics.com) 33 3.3 3/F (for appointments, call 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外

70 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); Rm 308, Tower is a place where children, staff and parents 100,000- 140,000/year. A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian EDUCATION work in partnership to enable all their > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, 海淀区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 students to realize their full potential. They Chaoyang (Inside 94 Middle school) 朝阳区望京花家 (8286 1956); Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Mandarin Schools are offering a stimulating and full inter- 地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 3478/0649, admis- Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓 [email protected], www.ibwya.net) 16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 1/F, Somerset Fortune national curriculum as well as an exciting The Frontiers School after school program, which will include Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥 Join the friendly and professional team at Yew Chung International School 路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926) Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin football. 耀中国际学校 for 11 years. Located in downtown Honglingjin Park since Beijing Passion International Medical > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, 1995, Yew Chung International School of Bei- Center Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 2450; Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 (6413 www.sibs.com.cn, [email protected]) jing (YCIS Beijing) offers a truly international This full-service international clinic 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. curriculum for children of foreign nationals provides 24-hr general medical care and a com.cn) The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 in China. The school follows the National patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion The British School of Beijing, established in Curriculum for England but also integrates an International Medical Center is equipped Beijing Mandarin School 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & extensive Chinese language and culture pro- with the latest in medical technology and is Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB of- gram, allowing foreign nationals to get the designed to support the comfort, safety and school is the city’s top institute for teaching fers an enhanced English National Curricu- best out of their time in China. YCIS Beijing is privacy of patients. spoken and written Mandarin as a second lum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to one of only five schools in China accredited > 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan language, more than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation by three separate accreditation organiza- Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大厦B1层 tions and has a 100 percent pass rate within (6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com) companies and embassies have successfully Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in learned with us each year. Also recognized Year 10 and 11 and the International Bac- the IGCSE and IB programs. In addition, YCIS Joinway Dental and recommended by BBC News as one of calaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year Beijing is the only international school in A reputable and trusted dental practice, the most professional Chinese language 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993- China to receive the Cambridge Award for Joinway Dental provides the perfect combi- school. Also awarded as the ‘the best Man- 246,057. Contact our Admissions team to Excellence in Education from the University darin school in Beijing’ by That’s Beijing nation of cutting edge technology and com- arrange a school tour. of Cambridge International Examinations. magazine. > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang 朝 fortable treatment, while maintaining the > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 Anhua Jie, >E-Tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, 9/F 阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731,www.ycis-bj. strictest sanitary and sterilization processes. Shunyi 顺义区安华街9号南侧 (8047 3558, www.brit- E-tower building 数码01大厦904-905 (6508 1026/1126); ishschool.org.cn, [email protected]) com) The clinic uses high-quality imported ma- Guangming Hotel School (embassy area): Room terials, and its professional, US-trained staff 0709, 7/F, Guangming Hotel (near US embassy) 光 Western Academy of Beijing La Maison Montessori de Pekin offers a personalized and private service. 明饭店7层0709室美国大使馆附近 (8441 8391, info@ 京西国际学校 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 > Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; 11D, Building D, Oriental beijingmandarinschool.com, www.beijingmandarin- The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is The first bilingual French-Chinese Montes- Kenzo Plaza (Ginza Mall), 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, school.com, Skype ID: beijing-Mandarinschool1998, a creative and innovative IB World School sori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座D座 Wechat: BJMS-Etower) children between ages 2 to 6 years old. 11D (8447 6092/93, mobile:1326 181 6708, joinway@ built upon a solid foundation of core values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, The kindergarten is located in a beautiful dentalcn.com, www.dentalcn.com) Gloria Chinese School Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Mon- Focusing on teaching Chinese, making exemplify these values through their aware- day to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class PrettySmile Dental sure your improvements, organizing task- ness of the world around them, service to activities also offered. If you are looking for professional and based. practical activities and providing others, can-do spirit and commitment to > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十四 comfortable dental care, PrettySmile Dental 180-day student visa. 条50号 (131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; lamaisonmontes- ishighly recommended by many patients. >R202 East Building, No.78 Maizidian Street, Chaoyang excellence. WAB graduates are accepted [email protected]; www.lamaisonmontessoridepk. The clinic is standing out because of the 朝阳区麦子店街78号一幢二层202室(6500 8201. into world-class colleges and universities com) professional team, all doctors are from the WeChat:1381 186 4656,www.gloriachinese.com) across the globe. dental hospital of Peking University and > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区来广 Harrow International School Beijing most of them got professional training in Hutong School 营东路10号(5986 5588) 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn USA. The strictest sterilization processes and Learn Mandarin with Beijing’s best Harrow International School Beijing prides high-end imported equipment and materi- Mandarin school, Hutong School. Our expe- Beijing City International School itself on its high academic standards, a als all help guarantee the highest quality of rienced teachers will customize your classes 北京乐成国际学校 close-knit school community, a rich extra- all dental services. and help you learn in a fun environment. Located in Beijing’s Central Business curricular activity program and the quality >Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm (closed Thu); 5-105,1F, Bldg 5, >Room 1501, 15/F, Zhongyu Plaza, A6 Gongti Beilu, District, Beijing City International School of its pastoral care provision. Leadership Sanlitun SOHO Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯SOHO 5号商 Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦1501室 (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering skills are promoted school-wide, with a 场1层5-105 (5785 3689/5785 3898, www.prettysmileden- and Inspiring through Challenge and range of enrichment activities to help The Bridge School 北京市朝阳区桥汉语言 Compassion.” This non-profit, independent students develop teamwork and creative tal.cn, [email protected]) thinking skills, as well as independence and 培训学校 co-educational day school offers an inter- national curriculum under the International responsibility. Students graduating from United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic >The Bridge School Head office, Room 503, 5/F, Harrow Beijing have won places at a range The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and of universities across the world including Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital 阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店写字楼5层503室(8451 7605) is authorized to teach all three IB programs Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. in Lido (which has its own dental clinic (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, onsite). A comprehensive range of services Beijing Juncheng Language School Programme). Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 (8610 are at hand, including restorative dentistry 北京君诚语言学校 > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区百子湾南 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: 10 6445 3870 ,enquiries@har- and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all > Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai, 二路77号 (8771 7171, www.bcis.cn) rowbeijing.cn) appointments. Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1 号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) ; > 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Beijing BISS International School 15 Gucheng Village, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Kindergartens Development Zone, Shunyi 北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, 北京BISS国际学校 Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102) > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang 朝阳区安 (8049 0307) EtonKids International Kindergarten 贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss.com.cn) 伊顿国际幼儿园 Parkway Health Clinic > LidoRoom C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place > Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 International Schools 3e International 北京3e国际学校 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路丽都广 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心AB座一 Since its founding in August 2005, 3e has 场 (6436 7368 www.etonkids.com) ;3/F, Block D 二层 (4000 662 -882, 24hrs; enquiry@parkwayhealth. Canadian International School of Beijing grown into one of the leading bilingual in- Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn); No.101-201, Beijing link, 北京加拿大国际学校 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 ( 6506 4805) block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun Dong Street, Chaoyang ternational schools in Beijing with students Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of ; Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼北京Link101-201室 from Nursery through Grade 6. Tuition: downtown Beijing, the Canadian Interna- RMB 162,800-185,500/year. Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路 SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 tional School of Beijing (CISB) opened its >Kindergarten Campus: 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu, Lido, 交汇处西南角(8437 1006); Kehui Lu, Chaoyang, The full spectrum of dentistry. Services in- doors in September 2006. This world-class Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台西路9-1号; Elementary Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区(8480 5538) ;Bldg clude teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, facility offers an internationally recognized Campus: 3 Xinjin Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新锦路 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang 朝阳 porcelain crowns, dental implants, ortho- Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP educa- 3号 (6437 3344 ext. 100, admissions@3einternationalsc 区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 (6533 6995); Palm dontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, pediatric tion. The Canadian International School hool.org, www.3einternationalschool.org) Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号 dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and of Beijing develops the whole child in an environmentally sensitive school within a 棕榈泉国际公寓 (6539 8967); Bldg 21, Guangqu veneers. Credit cards accepted. The International Montessori School of Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng东城区 >Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. NB210, B2/F, CBD, Guomao, China kind, caring community to become a citizen Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 (6749 5008); Baoxing World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建 of the world. Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang朝阳 外大街1号国贸商城地下2层 (6505 9439/31/93, www. > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路38号 registered international Montessori school. 区望京宝星园国际社区2期 (8478 0578); Block 1, sdmdental.com); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area,F- (6465 7788,www.cisb.com.cn) The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪 0186B, Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Mandarin/English program geared towards 罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座(8047 2983); Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 (6497 2173,6498 House of Knowledge 好思之家学校及幼儿园 helping students achieve fluency in either 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大 2173) ; Mon-Sun 10am-19pm.LB07-08, Euro Plaza, No.99 In their Elementary school and two kinder- 望路甲20号首府社区内 (5870 6779) YuXiang Road,Shunyi 北京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧 language from an early age. Curriculum gartens House of Knowledge features a aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a 陆广场LB07-08号 (8046 6084); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. FC222, project-based approach to learning. Guided Beanstalk International Bilingual School 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu,Sanyuanqiao high teacher-student ratio and impres- 青苗国际双语学校 by the Reggio Emilia philosophy, Early Years sive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 亮马桥40号21世纪饭店2层 (6466 4814, 6461 2745); Mon- learners follow the International Early Years > Kindergarten: 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Fri 9am-8pm. 4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Mall, Yuanda - RMB177,000/year. Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 Lu,Haidian 远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层4076B Curriculum (IEYC) and Elementary student > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区香江 follow the International Primary Curriculum 9255); Primary School: Block 2, Upper East Side, (8859 6912/13); Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm, Rm 5, 3/F, North 北路甲2号院8号楼 (6432 8228 ext. 800, www.msb.edu. 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北 Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli 北 (IPC). Both curricula apply best practices in cn, [email protected]) 路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951);Middle & High 京朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼3层05号(5977 2488) 21st century education and offer a truly in- School : 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang朝阳区南十里 ternational learning experience for children Beijing World Youth Academy 居38号 (8456 6019) Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所 from age 18 months to 11 years. 北京世青国际学校 > 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guang- > Chaoyang Park Campus: Victoria Gardens, 15 Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an hua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 (8529 6618, vista@ Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang international school for students of all na- Bookstores vista-china.net, www.vista-china.net) 朝阳公园校区：朝阳区朝阳公园南区15号维 tionalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs Page One 多利亚花园公寓 Shunyi Campus: North gate on its campuses conveniently located in Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric of Quanfa compound, 18 Maquanying Lu, The go-to shop for new releases and Clinic Chaoyang 顺义校区：朝阳区马泉营路18号泉 Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School special requests. With sister venues in > Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business 发花园北门 Xinglong Campus: Block A, Unit 8, since 2001, BWYA values holistic education Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街 Xinglongzhuang, Chaoyang Road, Chaoyang and seeks to give students ample oppor- two locations in Beijing, its network al- 荣和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456 2599; harmonypeds@ District 兴隆校区: 朝阳区朝阳路辅路兴隆庄甲8号 tunity to develop as globally-aware critical lows for fresh authors whilst upholding an ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn) A座 ([email protected], 400 650 7747, thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular extensive collection of titles. www.hokschools.com) activities are offered to further enrich IDC Dental > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World >Daily: 9am-6pm, Room 209, Bldg 7, Richmond Park student life. Graduates of BWYA have been Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang 朝 accepted at prestigious universities around 阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 1055, www. Clubhouse, Fangyuan Nanli, Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园南 Springboard International Bilingual 里丽都水岸会所209 (6538 8111, [email protected]) the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB pageonegroup.com); Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, School 君诚国际双语学校 INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙 Springboard International Bilingual School 桥路18号颐堤港商业中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www. pageonegroup.com)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 71 CLASSIFIEDS ACCOMMODATION GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING The Millennium Residences of the Beijing contemporary furnishings, fully equipped One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Fortune Plaza kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home Ascott Beijing Residence is located beside the third ring The Millennium Residences of the Beijing entertainment system and LCD flat screen >No.108B Jianguo Road,Chaoyang road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of televisions. District,Beijing 北京市朝阳区建国路乙108号 line 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is the Beijing CBD which bears the most > Email: [email protected] (6587 0888) also within easily reach of CBD, embassy momentously potential of development Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial area, Financial Street and other urban and value elevation. 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Expansive city views 北京国贸三期 西里7号楼1C (6415 8001, 138 1093 6118, 号 are available from floor to ceiling windows 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 [email protected]) (8535 6888, www.beijingkerryresidence. with the apartments situated from level 23 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District com) to 35 in the building complex. 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座15 Lusongyuan Hotel 层 A traditional compound of quadrangle The 171 stylish contemporary serviced Lee Garden Service Apartments composing of 5 courtyards which lies in residences range from studios to three- A newly renovated high-end premier living China Central Place the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel bedroom apartments and offer an elegant residence in a central location next to the 北京华贸中心 building is famous for its imperial living range of amenities and facilities to ensure shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s 9/F, Tower 2, China Central Place, No.79 taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of each resident’s stay is comfortable and well Wangfujing, suites range from studios to Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District nearly 170 years. The original owner of this taken care of. 北京市朝阳区建国路79号华贸中心2号楼9层 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) large private house was the Grand General Building No.1 Damei Center, 7 Qingnian and are tastefully furnished with specially SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he Road, Chaoyang District Beijing北京市朝阳 Lufthansa Centre selected materials. 区青年路7号达美中心1号楼 carried out top official duties, such as 北京燕莎中心 > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng Tel: 86-10 8585 2211 (8:30am-5:30pm) C203, Lufthansa Centre, No.50 Liangmaqiao (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区 defense minister. 86-10 8585 2888 (5:30pm-8:30am) > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436, Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 Road, Chaoyang District 王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); Fax: (86-10) 8585 2666 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C203 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, , Address:No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, website OakwoodAsia.com Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板厂胡 [email protected], www. Kerry Centre lgapartment.com) 同22号 www.the-silk-road.com, E-mail: THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES [email protected] 北京嘉里中心 The Westin Executive Residences at The 11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 FraserSuite CBD Beijing Beijing Financial Street offer an array of Marriott Executive Apartments Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District The ultimate luxury in apartment living, world-class cuisine options and Westin’s Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style signature amenities designed to elicit area where the prestigious business, and comfort, that surpasses the service personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the commercial, entertainment, and shopping Pacific Century Place level of many Beijing hotels. The 357 Gold- airport, the Westin Executive Residences center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, 北京盈科中心 Standard Beijing apartment features provides direct access to Beijing’s business, 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments contemporary concepts designed for luxury entertainment and shopping district and Stadium Road, Chaoyang District reflects an exceptional level of luxury. living. close proximity to cultural landmarks such 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen District Tel: 6564 9999 Tel: 5908 6000 Square. Each apartment is also fitted with Parkview Green 北京侨福芳草地中心

72 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CLASSIFIEDS

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 73 tj Tianjin reviews, events and information The Nutcracker / Ballet Sherlock Holmes: The Sign of Four / Theater Alice in Wonderland / Puppet Show

The Children’s Ballet of Kiev is bring- ing one of Tchaikovsky’s most beloved compositions to the stage for Tianjin audiences. Follow Clara as she follows Brought to you by the Canadian Instant the nutcracker to the land of sweets Theatre Company, this adaptation with beautiful choreography originally of Lewis Carroll’s children’s literature designed by Marius Petipas, and enjoy masterpiece will offer a humorous this Christmas tale about toys coming and whimsical rendition of the classic to life and dancing on toe-point. It’s the through colorful characters. Directed by perfect entertainment for the whole renowned art director Hugo Berenger, family. this Alice in Wonderland-turned-puppet Thu Jun 6, 7.30pm; RMB100-480; Tianjin show will for sure lead you down Ergong Theater, 2 Guanghua Lu, Hedong the rabbit hole for a night of fun and 河东区光华路2号 awe. The show features an English soundtrack with Chinese subtitles. Suspense, secrets, drama. These are all ingredients of Blackeyed Theater’s rendition Sun Jun 14-Mon Jun 15, various times; of an Arthur Conan Doyle mystery featuring the world-famous detective. Starring Jazz Heroes: Mike RMB80-380; Tianjin Grand Theatre, the talented Luke Barton as the titular character, this stage show is sure to have you Stern, Dave Weckl and Ye Tianjin Grand Theatre, 24 Youyi Lu, Hexi hooked on finding the culprit – all while waiting for Holmes’ salient remarks. Huang / Concert 河西区友谊路24号 Wed Jun 12, 7.30pm; RMB80-380; Jinwan Grand Theatre, Bldg 4, Jiefang Bei Lu, Heping 解放北路津湾广场4号楼

Li Yundi World Tour / Concert

In 2000, at 18, Li Yundi became the With six Grammy nominations and two youngest winner of the Chopin wins to his name, after his 40-year ca- International Piano Competition. Since reer Mike Stern can be considered one then, Li Yundi has been performing in of the world’s greatest jazz-rock guitar the world’s top music halls and music masters. He’ll pair up with Dave Weckl, festivals. In 2016, he kicked off his world one of the best contemporary drum- tour at the Disney Concert Hall in LA, mers, and young saxophone player and he’s finally ready to come to Tianjin Huang Ye for a jazz concert to remem- for a one-day performance. ber at the Jinwan Grand Theater. Sat Jun 8, 7.30pm; RMB80-680; Tianjin Fri Jun 28, 7.30pm; RMB480; Tianjin Grand Theatre, 24 Youyi Lu, Hexi 河西区 Grand Theatre, 24 Youyi Lu, Hexi河西区 友谊路24号 友谊路24号

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 75 BON BURGER Tianjin Chainsaw Surf-and-Turf

by Sid Gulinck

inding a burger isn’t all that hard in a opened in 2015. With this current location city with a population larger than that in Heping district, though, the Bon concept F seems to have come into its own. The team with some brawn to it is a harder task. Bon says they “don’t want to scale up,” opting in- Burgerof delivers a small justcountry. that. But finding a burger stead for a cozy, living room feel, which some- This colorful burger den is run by Zhang times does translate into long waits for a table. Xu and Ray Ray, two old Tianjin hands who are The two owners are well attuned to one another and make do with their limited size horror is apparent from the decoration of the kitchen. Zhang Xu, who operates the stove, self-proclaimed horror fans. Their affinity with came of age in the burger game by Rakish-looking Ray Ray, who tends the lining the shelves, and B-movies on repeat the skillet during home dinner parties. His sig- bar, has the drinks on lockdown. Dressed to offsettingplace, with 50s collectible Americana, figurines jazz paraphernalia and statuettes nature burger is called the Big Bon firing(RMB65), up a T in his rockabilly and Beetlejuice-esque which, although served with only a modest garb, he concocts smooth-tasting cocktails homey vibe. There’s an unspeakable charm side of potato wedges or a salad, is surprising- like the Kaku (Amaretto, Cointreau, Bols li- toand polishing a surfboard, off a allquarter-pounder of which give the under place the a queur, Kahlua and vodka, RMB45). Spanish watchful eye of carnivorous aliens and chain- is carefully prepped (supposedly smashed and Italian wines come by the glass and are saw murderers, seemingly ready to collect 400ly filling. times The before grade-A kneaded Australian into patties!) beef he anduses decently priced (under RMB40 per glass), your scraps and wear them as a trophy mask. seasoned just right. Burgers like the Scarface while Australian wines come by the bottle. This is Bon Burger’s third incarnation (RMB70) are listed on the menu with the ad- The limited but varied beer selection is sup- monition: “Don’t cut me up!” Fresh seafood is plemented with mulled wine (RMB45), and also heavily represented on soon – from what we hear – sangria for much- after two previous branches, the first of which the menu, with delectable needed refreshment in the summer. Vicky, the dishes such as The Sailor third member of the team, puts her mark on (RMB75), a sizeable piece of the menu with her artisanal tiramisu (RMB35) French cod served sizzling and inebriating margarita cupcakes (RMB35, in its own juices with - made to order). con and onion. Add to that Despite burgers being the staple here, the tasty sides like butter-fried restaurant’s menu isn’t bound by any cuisine, brussels sprouts (RMB45), seeing how Mexican, American and even - Italian-style options are featured alongside all lets (RMB30) and a beef that ground beef. The menu’s slightly schizo- quesadillafried Vietnamese with chestnut sole fil phrenic feel aside, this place has all the mak- puree and pickled cucum- ings of a cozy after-work hangout. ber (RMB50), and you have yourself a classy surf-and- Mon-Fri 6-10.30pm (closed Thursdays), Sat & Sun noon-3pm, turf spread. 6-10.30pm; 131 Hami Dao, Heping 和平区哈密道131号 (15510970497)

76 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM JING-JIN-JI’S STRIDES TO CONTROL STEEL INDUSTRY EMISSIONS GO BEYOND PRODUCTION CUTS by Edoardo Donati Fogliazza and Grigor Grigorian

hile the air in Beijing and Tianjin Tianjin will be capped at 200 million metric implement the plan and has yet to release its has become noticeably more tons and 15 million tons by 2020 in an effort own benchmarks,” the EDF representative W breathable within the past cou- to “optimize the iron and steel industry,” as ple years, the improvement is in no way a reported by Xinhua. This does not mean the province has sat mystery. The Chinese government has been In fact, the industry is producing way confirmed. putting an enormous amount of effort into more than China needs. In 2015, only 70% of scale interventions have been reported to be cleaning up the air in the so-called Jing-Jin-Ji local steel output would end up utilized. Now, underwayidle during in the the first region months throughout of the year. the Large-winter, area, which includes the capital, the sur- several steps have been taken to decrease rounding Hebei province and the municipal- overcapacity and optimize the industry. plants not complying with regulations and the ity of Tianjin. As it turns out, steel is at the The measures are a local effort to imple- so-calledwith local ‘zombie government mills’ officials already shuttingpartially down or center of this large-scale war on pollution. completely inactive plants which succumbed Steel production is most responsible for to falling prices. South China Morning Post the emissions which routinely clog the air reducement the overcapacity three-year policythat year that resulted was first in publicized the struggles of Jing-Jin-Ji small- around the northeast of China, making cities announced in 2018 after the first efforts to scale steel producers to make ends meet in a in Hebei province some of the most polluted illegal steel production in the region, Xinhua recent piece, describing inconsistent blanket in China – and the world. In fact, China is a reported.higher profits, which in turn motivated more steel production powerhouse and until not “Controlling emissions and making fac- factories. so long ago, Hebei province was its main fac- tories more sustainable is one of the most measuresWhile imposedthe government by local designs officials large-scale over the tory. In 2017, China was producing 49.2% of important moves to take to solve the Jing-Jin-Ji policies and controls the markets, the practical the world’s crude steel, at 832 million tons a area air pollution problem,” a representative implementation falls on the shoulders of local year, and Hebei alone was responsible for 11% from the Environment Defense Fund (EDF), bureaucracies, in an extremely fragmented of China’s output, according to data from the regulatory system. Beijing and Tianjin, as mu- Worldsteel Association. Hebei produced more routinely collaborates with the Chinese gov- nicipalities with special administrations, and steel per year than the entirety of Japan (the ernment,a US-based told environmental That’s. non-profit which Hebei province and its cities, all have different world’s second largest producer) – and the But while the region has achieved some - whole European Union. With the territory of results in reducing capacity and emissions, it cies, making a concerted effort complex. Beijing and Tianjin added to the mix, we have is still struggling to make the remaining facto- offices“In overseeingorder to limit the emissions implementation from the of ironpoli 25% of China’s steel produced in the Jing-Jin-Ji ries more environmentally friendly. industry, the Chinese government has decided area. “At the moment, Hebei province has a set to introduce very strict benchmarks, which Now, however, the region is ready to cut of standards for the reduction of emissions by are considered as very strict even for global down on steel in order to achieve the double iron factories, and it is supposed to complete a standards,” the EDF representative tells That’s. goal of controlling emissions and raising the transformation of iron factories towards ultra- “Every business has to strive to implement low emissions, according to the Ministry’s environmentally friendly and energy-saving over-production. In April, news came that work plan released earlier this year. But as technology to realize the ultra-low emission crudeprofits steel of an production industry heavily capacity damaged in Hebei by and of today, the province has still to effectively rehauling of the industry, and this is a big chal-

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 77 lenge for any business, even more so for smaller results achieved before.” ones, and that these producers would feel the Earth, the air in Beijing has indeed cleared This is not an easy task. Though the pressure is entirely understandable.” based climate analysis non-profit Berkley government seems to be spending time and Yet at the other end, increasing industry effort designing solutions which balance the revenues prompt a bump in illegal activity, moderate.significantly This since was 2017. also theThe case AQI inaverage Tianjin for impact of the new regulations on the indus- tempting factory owners to unlawfully increase andlast yearHebei, stands still housing at about a 110, plethora classified of heavy as try. In February of last year, scholars from production capacity to get a bigger chunk of the industry players of all shapes and sizes. The the Center for Resource and Environmental money. The Chinese government has promised Asian Development Bank, which loaned China Policy Research of Beijing’s China University further action to take care of these murky busi- USD300 million to clean up the air in the re- of Mining and Technology drafted plans to ness practices, and measures like inspecting gion, also praised the government’s efforts, supply market value and job creation with in- factories randomly through satellite remote which managed to cut down its CO2 output vestment in renewable energy, which has been sensing, evaluating electricity consumption and by 4% for every RMB10,000 worth of GDP in underway since the large-scale crackdown opening illegal activity reporting platforms are 2018, with global carbon emissions steadily on carbon emissions in the winter of 2017. all included in the latest Xinhua report. growing in the same period. In the same year, Beijing Review reported on And yet, the whole struggle to control iron Now, though, a less-than-optimal perfor- the struggles of employing workers of the production might not be enough to reach the mance is caused by the increase in production since-closed mills into new production plants of other major heavy industries, according to in the area. According to their report, Yinlong Group’s Wu’an New Energy Industrial Park Qian,final goal interviewed of improving by That’s the quality, praised of the air Chineseover in January and February 2019, according to in Handan, Hebei, was already home to more governmentJing-Jin-Ji. Greenpeace for its efforts senior in optimizing campaigner the Liu iron ChinaLiu. The Commodity sectors of Datacement Group. and “Eveniron all though grew than 2,500 laid-off workers from nearby industry, which “will play a key role in both air emissions of SO2 and PM2.5 from the steel in- closed steel mills. pollution control and industry capacity control,” dustry have been decreased by 60% in the last The struggle to clean up the air in what is despite a rebound of regional air pollution in the decade, the industry is still one of the major expected to become the world’s largest mega- city is still underway, and while we can already weather conditions. Tianjin and Hebei area needs to accelerate firstBefore quarter winter, of 2019, the in improvement a period of unfavorable in air qual- thepolluters systematic in the process region,” of Liu avoiding says. “The industrial Beijing, done. And the task is more complex than ever ity in the Jing-Jin-Ji area was praised worldwide. capacity shocks brought about by short-term before.benefit from better skies, more needs to be According to statistics from the California- demand growth, while also making sure of the

78 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO THE BELT AND ROAD INITIATIVE

proposed. In that short time ago, it has caused great repercussions in I thet has world. been fiveToday, years new since sayings the Beltthat andhad Roadnever Initiative been used (BRI) before was keep first springing up, from large ones such as “the community of shared future for mankind,” and “the major-country diplomacy with Chinese characteristics,”

Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB).” At the same time, through the jointto operation-level efforts of China terms and such countries as “five along major the goals Belt andof connectivity,” Road, the BRI and is also“the changing the direction of development and governance of the future world. In order to facilitate the audience to quickly understand the context of the BRI, the National Institute of International Strategy, Chinese Academy of Social Sciences, compiled this book of brief introduction.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2019 | 79 JUNE That’s Beijing Horoscopes Finally, a horoscope that understands your life in China. by Karen Toast

Gemini Cancer Leo Virgo 5.22~6.21 6.22~7.22 7.23~8.23 8.24~9.23

Now is the time to broaden your Make the trek to meditate on the You’ll be feeling low this month. Treat Freeeeeedom! Something has been professional horizons and break Mutianyu Great Wall summit alone at yourself to a truly astronomical pair of holding you back, but now you’re being out of the Beijing expat bubble. Try sunrise. It will bring some peace and sunglasses at the glasses market in set loose on Beijing. Get yourself to something new and exciting that no quiet back into your hectic routine. Panjiayuan, masquerade as a Western new bar Chocolate & Milk (p. 55) in a one you know has done before, like Wear sunscreen in case you fall asleep. movie star and reject all photo group of six and order in twos. This is teaching English at a kindergarten. requests. You’ll be back to yourself in important. no time!

Libra Scorpio Sagittarius Capricorn 9.24~10.23 10.24~11.22 11.23~12.21 12.22~1.20

You will learn something this month Beijing is getting HOT and Scorpios are The position of the sun in relation to Everything’s coming up Sagittarius! that will change your perspective likely to suffer. Wipe that sweat from Mercury most clearly dictates that if Locals will finally laugh at your on life for the better. It’s everything your upper lip, drag yourself to brand- you so much as dip a toe inside the hilarious ‘ting bu dong’ jokes and you’ll you’ve been waiting for. You will learn new froyo place Joghurtwerk (p. 53) back seat of a Didi this month, seven learn the Chinese word for pizza. Big it from the eighteenth stranger you and seriously try to chill out. years of lost WeChat group chats will steps, goat. make eye contact with on the subway follow. for this purpose.

Aquarius Pisces Aries Taurus 1.21~2.19 2.20~3.20 3.21~4.20 4.21~5.21

You may have to get out of a sticky When you drop your phone in hot pot This is the most productive month you It is absolutely vital that you learn situation at the office this month, but and you don’t know what to do, use will have all year. Make the most of everything there is to know about you’ve already used up your vacation the Chengdu travel feature pages (p. it by spending every RMB you have Beijing’s Great Spotted Woodpecker. days thanks to that extended May Day 22) provided in this magazine to dry on that pair of absolutely, definitely, You will meet the human of your trip. Try clutching at your heart and it out and shake your fist at meddling obviously real Balenciaga sneakers dreams and they will be uncommonly sinking to the ground dramatically. It Neptune. from the Pearl Market. interested in this line of conversation. may sound strange but trust us, it will work.

80 | JUNE 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM