Visitor Guide

Mark Emery Mark Emery

Located southwest of Anchorage, Bristol Bay and the Alaska Peninsula WelcomeWelcome toto offer an unprece- dented array of recreation opportuni- Bristol Bay & the ties, both summer and winter. Bristol Bay & the You can hike where NASA sent the astronauts for moon environ- AlaskaAlaska PeninsulaPeninsula ment training. You can raft for Mark Emery days in wild solitude. You can fol- to tour bush villages and fishing yards. It is an area where as many low the endless routes fur trappers towns of Southwestern Alaska or to as 150 species of birds can be ob- used two hundred years ago or ex- quickly shuttle you to wilderness so served, where whales swim near plore where no human has gone vast it is measured in square miles. the shoreline, and where, during before. Walking and driving tours of peak summer runs, it seems there The Bristol Bay region and the the area villages will show you are enough fish that you could Alaska Peninsula offer some of the what life is like for the people who cross the river on their backs. greatest varieties of plant life and call this area home today and for Welcome to our home. We are wildlife viewing anywhere on the last several hundred years. You proud to share with you the won- earth, all within reach of even the can see the resourcefulness of the der and uniqueness that is Bristol most modest of adventurers. people who have developed and Bay and the Alaska Peninsula. It is King Salmon and Iliamna are maintained their own power, tele- truly a one of a kind experience for the transportation hubs for this re- phone, cable television and cellular those with the spirit to explore a gion and are served by several phone systems, equal to those any- piece of history that lives on every regularly scheduled airlines. Upon where in the country. You will visit day in this remote area of Alaska. your arrival, experienced and capa- a people who live with fox, caribou ble bush pilots are here to take you and grizzly bears in their back- —Dave Lax

Land Mammals Think of your favorite WatchableWatchable Birds photo of an Alaska Brown Birding in Bristol Bay offers (grizzly) Bear and most likely it the adventurer five different was taken at Katmai National ecosystems: marine, river, Park or McNeil River State WildlifeWildlife tundra, boreal forest, and Game Sanctuary. This region lake. Spring and fall migra- is world famous for unsurpassed tions include numerous shore bear viewing and photographic birds such as plovers, sandpipers, opportunities. Even the novice godwits, and redknots, just to photographer can take home name a few. The spring swan mi- snapshots that will astound gration is truly spectacular as friends and neighbors. Approxi- thousands of these majestic water- mately 10,000 bears populate the fowl move through the area. region, making them more nu- ark While walking through the boreal e M merous than people. These fa- Stev forest you might hear the chatter mous bruins may be encountered of the Boreal Chickadee, the chime anywhere in the Bristol Bay area. of the Varied Thrush or the song Many outfitters offer excursions of the Lincoln Sparrow. to areas where you can see bears Interested birders could spend in a true wilderness setting. several days seeking out any of the McNeil River limits the number of 157 species of birds that nest here visitors per day. Katmai does not or pass through to nest farther limit visitation, but lodging, camp north. sites and transportation may be —Bob Blush difficult to obtain during periods of peak bear viewing. Because of

y the popularity of Brooks Camp in r o Marine Mammals Katmai National Park and the m E

k Mention marine mammals in r a M Bristol Bay and the first one that and the Alaska Penin- s u l a . comes to mind is the beluga Both the Mulchatna and Peninsula whale. Belugas are a relatively Caribou herds can be found pass- small, beautiful white whale. An ing through the region. The Mul- adult beluga is ten to fifteen feet chatna herd is estimated at nearly 200,000 animals. Seeing these animals in large congregations during

Mark Emory calving season is an experience that you won’t forget. The majes- McNeil River area, be sure to plan tic moose may be found in many ahead. tundra ponds and wetlands. Red While bears may be the most fox, beaver, porcupine, river ot- famous residents of the area, they ters, artic hares and wolves are are not the only mammals that are also common in the region. Keep found passing through Bristol Bay your camera at the ready. Richard Russell

Common Sense in Bear Country In most cases, bears are not a threat, but they do deserve your respect and attention. When traveling in bear country, keep alert and enjoy the opportunity to see these magnificent animals in their natural habitat. •Avoid surprising bears; look for signs of bears and make plenty of noise. •Avoid crowding bears; respect their personal space. •Avoid attracting bears through improper handling of food or garbage. •Plan ahead, stay calm, iden- tify yourself, don’t run. Mark Emory

pounds. As many as 3,000 beluga live in the waters of Responsible Wildlife Viewing Guidelines Bristol Bay. The best time to view these magnificent crea- • Observe animals from a distance, watching for changes in their behav- tures is late April through the ior that indicate distress. month of May. Belugas may • Avoid sudden movements or surprise encounters at close range. also be found in the rivers in • Use binoculars for closer observation and long-range telephoto lenses the late summer and fall when for close-up photographs. the silver salmon are running • Never chase or disturb animals to “create an (August and September). action shot” for your camera. • They normally swim into the Respect nests, dens, rookeries and haul outs. Alarm cries and displays are an animal’s rivers on the incoming tides warning for you to keep your distance. and leave the rivers on the • Avoid coming between or disturbing female tide ebbs. animals and their young. Other marine mammals • Don‘t handle or adopt “orphan” animals,

such as sea otters, sea lions, parents are usually nearby. Mark Emory harbor seals, orcas (killer • Don’t feed wild animals. Feeding wild ani- whales) and migrating gray mals is against Alaska State law. whales may also be seen in- • Carry out all trash. Wildlife can be endangered by discarded plastic or habiting the shoreline and other garbage. offshore waters. Iliamna Lake • Pets can make it difficult to view wildlife. It’s best not to bring them. supports one of only two colo- • Be considerate of other viewers. nies of freshwater seals in the • Use existing roads and trails. Minimize your impact on wildlife habi-

world. tat. Mark Emory • —Tim Cook Report wildlife or environmental abuse.

WildlifeWildlife ViewingViewing

Mammals January February March April May June July August September October November December Beluga Whales z z z z Grey Whales Harbor Seals z z z z Mark Emery Walrus (Round Island) z Brown Bear z z Caribou z z Moose z River Otter z z z z z z z z z Beaver z Wolf Wolverine Lynx

Sport Fish Fresh Water

Run Timing January February March April May June July August September October November December King Salmon z z

Sockeye Salmon z z Mark Emery Coho Salmon z z z Pink Salmon z z Chum Salmon z z Dolly Varden z z z z z z z Steelhead Trout z z z Rainbow Trout z z z z z z z z z Lake Trout z z z z z z z z z z Northern Pike z z z z z z z z z z z z Burbot z z z z z z z z z z z z Grayling z z z z z z z z z z Mark Emery Whitefish z z z z z z z z z z z Smelt z z z

Most Likely Sightings Likely Sightings z Occasional Sightings Rare Sightings 4

January, February BirdBird September Migration of shorebirds is ob- & March served. Watch for Peregrines Winter is the time of the WatchingWatching and Gyrfalcons. hardy. Willow Ptarmigan, Common

Redpolls, Pine Grosbeaks, Boreal Chickadees, Old Squaws and August Hawk Owls can be seen during Shorebirds be- October the winter months in Bristol Bay. come Waterfowl in fall migration. Watch for Tundra Swans on the river and geese flying over.

April Tundra Swans, Greater White-fronted Geese and November & Eurasian Widgeons show up on open water along December with many other species. Offshore migrants and fall storms make interesting, but opportunistic bird watching along the beaches. May Warmer weather brings more About 150 bird species are seen rk species including Golden Plover, a around the region. The diver- M Hudsonian Godwit, Marbled e sity: tundra, forests, rivers, bays, ev Godwit, Parasitic Jaeger t S creeks, lakes, ponds, beaches, and and Black-Poll War- abundant the influx of Asian species make it bler in beau- a great place to bird watch through tiful on the beaches; the year. Whim- —Rod Cyr brel, West- ern spring plum- age.

Sandpi-

r e per, Dunlin,

E Ruddy Turnstone,

June k

Marbled Godwit and ar

& July M Short-billed N e s t i n g and rearing of Dowitcher follow the young takes place. Commonly ob- tides out. served nesting behavior is evident in Aleutian Tern, Lapland Longspur, Long-tailed Jaeger and Glaucous- winged Gulls. Steve Mark

Charter Fishing Angler’sAngler’s If you are interested in large and abundant fish, this region is the place ParadiseParadise you want to be. The Nak- nek, Kvichak, and the borne for an instant, deep crim- Alagnak are all world famous son in the autumn light, turned river destinations. Sport fishers and dove into the swift current travel from all over the world to for the dark rocks in the rapids. seek trophy rainbow, salmon, My reel spun out of control dolly varden, grayling and other spraying drops of water across species. They’re all here, those

Mark Emery Mark Emery my face, the line rapidly disap- famous rivers, and many more. pearing into the green glacial Have you ever heard of Ameri- One Fisherman’s Tale current. can Creek or the King Salmon River? They may not have the It was a perfect evening for reputation the bigger rivers do, fishing on the Naknek River. I but they hold big fish and they heard an eagle call. A few alder are as close as a short boat or leaves floated by catching in the floatplane ride from King back eddy behind a rock; they Salmon or Iliamna. bobbed in the foam for a few Here’s the secret to catching seconds before swiftly spinning your trophy. Hire a guide. The down the river. In the distance fish are here by the millions and the faint click of caribou hooves you can catch them until your on stone muffled through the arm hurts. A guide is the best evening air; and a flock of teal way to know how, where, and banked, peeling around the cor- when to fish for whatever spe- ner, wings slicing toward the Jim Young cies your might be interested in. south. I saw my line suddenly Can you fish without a guide? stop, and slowly I raised the rod We struggled in the darken- You sure can, but try to tap the tip. ing canyon. The moon, rising local knowledge before heading The quiet moment was shat- across the river hinted at the out. tered as the water exploded in oncoming night. Finally, after a ringlets bent around a bright long battle of give and take, I silver and red body. Eight was seventy yards down river pounds of rainbow trout, air- holding the writhing trout in a deep back eddy and watching it recover to swim strongly into the current. It hovered like a hawk for a few seconds before gliding silently away to its refuge among the moss and gravel. Such are autumn evenings on the Naknek River. --Trevor Townsend Mark Emery Mark Emery 6

Gear Angling Information Many people come to the Bristol Bay re- Alaska’s fishery resources are gion ready to fish for something about half closely managed by both state the size of what actually lives here. You’ll and federal agencies. Sport want a good stiff road and at least a 30 fishing regulations vary ac- pound line for rainbows and salmon. Fly- cording to area, species and fishers need to plan on using a 7 weight season. For complete informa- rod and a fast sinking line. If you want to tion and regulations on sport fish for Kings, go at least one step heavier. fishing in the Bristol Bay area Don’t underestimate the size and power of contact the Alaska Department a fish in a strong current. Every year of Fish and Game at (907) 246- 3340 or online at guides tell stories of fishermen who www.adfg.state.ak.us. watched their trophy fish tear off line,

heading downstream, never to be seen again. Licenses & Fees A sport fishing license is re- Mark Emery quired for all persons 16 years Flies of age or older and must be in Flies need to be large, heavy, and dark. Wooly Buggers in green, purple and black possession while sport fishing. are favorites around here. Supplement those with egg patterns and you’ll be Licenses are available from pretty well-covered. most stores and lodges in the area and can also be purchased Lures online at www.adfg.state.ak.us. Lures are successful if they are large and run deep. We have seen active lures similar to flatfish bring in some monster salmon. Spoons in multiple colors, bright Non-resident sport fish- and dark, also bring in a lot of big fish. ing license fee: 1 day …………………$ 10 Catch and Release 3 day …………………$ 20 By following a few simple rules you can be certain that released fish will live to be 7 day …………………$ 30 caught again. 14 day …………………$ 50 • Time is of the essence. Play and release fish as rapidly as possible. A fish Annual …………………$100

played gently for too long may be too exhausted to recover. • Keep the fish in the water. A fish out of water is suffocating. In addition, Non-resident King even a few inches of water under a thrashing fish acts as a protective cushion. Salmon Stamp • Gentleness in handling is essential. Keep your fingers out of the gills. Do not 1 day …………………$ 10 squeeze small fish – they can be lifted and held easily by holding the lower 3 day …………………$ 20 lip. Always try to use wet hands when handling fish. 7 day …………………$ 30 • Unhooking: Remove the hook as rapidly as possible using long-nosed pliers 14 day …………………$ 50 UNLESS THE FISH IS DEEPLY HOOKED. If deeply hooked, cut the leader Annual …………………$100 and leave the hook in. Do not tear out hooks roughly. Be gentle and quick. • Reviving: Some fish, especially after a long struggle, may loose consciousness and float belly-up. Hold the fish in the water upright. Move the fish forward and backwards so that water runs through the gills. This is artificial respira- tion and may take a few minutes. When it revives, begins to struggle and can swim normally, release it to survive and challenge another fisherman. You Mark Emery Mark Emery have done your job well. 7

for days and never see a moose Hiking or a caribou but one flight seeing To the adventurer, mys- OutdoorOutdoor trip can show you wildlife in tery is a large empty place on numbers that are difficult to a map. The Alaska Peninsula count. Flight seeing can be ex- is so vast and sparsely popu- pensive, just the cost of aviation lated that river drainages and AdventureAdventure mountain peaks are often unnamed. To some this is an invitation to come. But traveler beware; maps

can be deceiving. Foot travel in Emery Mark Alaska is fraught with hidden hazards; few trails exist for getting around. At a distance the tundra looks easily traveled, but crossing the spongy surface can be an ankle breaker. Drainages are often choked with impenetrable alders. Still those empty places sing their siren song. To those that can’t resist the call, careful planning can make your trip a great experience. For the inexperienced tundra trekker, consider hiring an air taxi to take you to any of the thousands of small lakes in the region and estab- lish a base camp for day hikes. It is difficult to capture in words the ex- hilaration of touching down on the surface of a nameless lake, unloading your gear, and then watching the float plane disap- pear into the distance. You real- ize that you are alone in a wilderness untouched by the ages. You Mark Emery can take the time to learn the tundra, follow game trails, and experience fuel can be a hefty chunk of change. the variations of weather without Still, there is nothing closer to the needing to click off miles that mythical magic carpet in Alaska that looked easily achievable on a map. a small aircraft on a flight seeing trip. Visit a steaming volcano, a wild river choked with salmon, the Flightseeing Bering Sea coast, mountain peaks to The only way to get a sense of closely packed they are defined as a the incredible size of the Great Land frenzy…go flight seeing. is to see it by air. Flight seeing can take you across tundra, through mountain passes, and over volcanoes to remote spots with scenery that Rafting & Kayaking leaves you breathless. You can hike The pace of nature in Alaska is

National Park Service 8 thing tries to take advantage of the rocks demand precise maneuvering. activities that are little known outside long days. On the other hand, nature Only the most experienced rafters con- of the area. The region offers some of works its magic at times so slowly we template this float trip that takes three the best wilderness cross country ski- hardly notice. There is a way you can ing to be found anywhere. Winter is appreciate the speed and the slowness the time of year to see our wildlife in all on the same trip. Just get in a raft its winter coat. Fox, Lynx, and Ptar- or kayak and travel at river speed. In migan can be seen on a winter trek. the slow spots you can fish, take pic- Wolves and wolverine await to be tures, and just watch the scenery go spied by the most fortunate adventur- by. When the current picks up, get ers. Take a trip into the wild silence! ready for whitewater adventure! Among the numerous lakes and rivers that are great for rafting or kayaking, Beach combing Amanda Austin the region boasts five nationally desig- What could be more pleasant than nated Wild & Scenic Rivers: to four days to complete. walking the breezy beaches of Bristol

Bay, searching for special treasures Alagnak Wild River Chilikadrotna River that are waiting along the shores of the Visitors to the Alagnak Wild River The “Chili” River originates at Bering Sea? Treasures such as a experience a wilderness of captivating scenic Twin Lakes and flows through sunny beach flower, a bottle from a landscapes, abundant wildlife, and Lake Clark National Park and Pre- foreign ship, or ancient evidence of the cultural heritage. Meandering down serve. The river features long the braided river, you may discover a stretches of swift water, out- proud bald eagle perched atop a spruce standing fishing, and magnifi- tree in the boreal forest, gaze at a cent mountain vistas. moose browsing above the river bank in the wet sedge tundra, or perhaps Mulchatna River encounter a brown bear feasting on The Mulchatna River, origi- spawning salmon-a critical link to the nating in Lake Clark National Alagnak River ecosystem. Park and Preserve, flows through astonishingly scenic tundra. Its headwaters are Tur-

quoise Lake, and it is flanked Russell Richard by the glacier-clad Chigmit passage of the mighty mammoth can Mountains to the east. The Mulchatna all be found here. Caribou Herd frequents the area. A more common treasure is a Japa-

nese glass float. These buoyant gems Tlikakila River escape from fishing nets, travel the Originating at the foot of glaciers world’s oceans and frequently end up in a mountain pass, the Tlikakila is a on the beaches of Bristol Bay. Beach braided glacial river located entirely combing can be done any time, but Ty Mase within the Lake Clark National Park. many prefer periods of low tides when Aniakchak River It flows through 10,000-foot high rock it is possible to land small aircraft on Lying entirely within the Aniak- and scow-capped mountains and per- the sandy beaches. A shuttle from an chak National Monument and Pre- pendicular cliffs to empty into Lake air taxi allows you to explore beaches serve, you can float the river from in- Clark. away from beach walkers near vil- side the caldera of a volcano to the lages. Check with the listed air taxi ocean past spectacular wildlife and Skiing operators for recommendations on geology. The river moves swiftly places to explore and timing your trip Skiing is one of those off-season through a narrow gorge, and large with the tides.

Lake Clark National lar forty square mile, 100 to PublicPublic 700 foot deep, pyroclastic ash Park & Preserve flow deposited by the 1912 Lake Clark National Park eruption of the Novarupta Vol- and Preserve is a composite of LandsLands cano. There are at least four- ecosystems representative of teen volcanoes in the park con- many regions of Alaska. The spec- ing. All camping is primitive, no fa- sidered active, none of which are cur- tacular scenery stretches from the cilities or designated campsites ex- shores of Cook Inlet, across the Chig- ist. Use Leave No Trace guidelines to mit Mountains, to the tundra covered minimize your impacts. Backcountry hills of the western interior. The permits for camping and hiking are Chigmits, where the Alaska and Aleu- not required, however there are rules tian Ranges meet, are an awesome, and regulations governing one's be- jagged array of mountains and gla- havior in all national park areas. Be- ciers which include two active volca- come familiar with them. Resist the urge to take, shape or alter the wilderness around you. For more information on Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, visit its web site at www.nps.gov/lacl.

Katmai National Park & Preserve Katmai National Park and Pre- National Park Service serve is famous for volcanoes, brown bears, fish, and rugged wilderness. It Mark Emery Mark Emery noes, Mt. Redoubt and Mt. Iliamna. is also the site of the Brooks River National Historic Landmark with Lake Clark, 40 miles long, and many rently erupting. other lakes and rivers within the park Brown bear and salmon are two of are critical salmon habitat to the Bris- Katmai’s best known attractions. The tol Bay salmon fishery, one of the number of brown bears has grown to largest sockeye salmon fishing more than 2,000. During the peak of grounds in the world. Numerous lake the world's largest sockeye salmon and river systems in the park and pre- run each July, and during return of the serve offer excellent fishing and wild- "spawned out" salmon in September, life viewing. forty to sixty bears congregate in Wilderness travel, backpacking, Brooks Camp along the Brooks cross-country hiking, rafting/ River and the Naknek Lake and kayaking, wildlife viewing, hunting Brooks Lake shorelines. Brown and fishing are the primary activities bears along the 480 mile Katmai in Lake Clark National Park and Pre-

Mark Emery Mark Emery Coast also enjoy clams, crabs, and serve. Webster defines wilderness as an occasional whale carcass. A rich “an empty or pathless area or region." North America’s highest concentra- variety of other wildlife is found in Most of Lake Clark National Park and tion of prehistoric human dwellings. the Park as well. Preserve qualifies under that defini- Katmai National Monument was For more information on Katmai tion of wilderness. There are no created to preserve the famed Valley National Park and Preserve, visit its "improvements" for hiking or camp- of Ten Thousand Smokes, a spectacu- web site at www.nps.gov/katm.

river otter, and beaver; five species of features. Indeed, the Alaska Peninsula Pacific salmon, Arctic grayling, dolly Refuge is the most scenically diverse varden/char, rainbow and lake trout, of the Bristol Bay Refuges: the inter- northern pike, and burbot. Birds com- play of volcanic activity with shoreline

Mark Emery monly seen include bald eagles, owls, erosion and glacial scour has created falcons, ravens, ducks, geese, swans, outstanding scenery. The Joint Fed- seabirds, shorebirds, and passerines. Sea lions, harbor seals, sea otters, and migratory whales use shores and offshore waters. The refuge offers a variety of recreational opportunities including sport fishing and hunting, flightseeing, ob- serving and photographing wildlife, hiking, backpacking, boating and camping. Refuge lands are remote and accessible only by small aircraft, boat or rugged cross country hiking. There Becharof National Wildlife are no roads or maintained trails. For more information on Becharof Na- Refuge tional Wildlife Refuge, visit its web Becharof National Wildlife Refuge site at http://becharof.fws.gov.

lies between Katmai National Park and Russell Richard Preserve and Alaska Peninsula Na- tional Wildlife Refuge. The Refuge’s Alaska Peninsula National eral-State Land Use Planning Com- approximately 1,157,000 acres are Wildlife Refuge mission listed Chiginagak and Venia- made up of rolling tundra, towering The Alaska Peninsula National minof volcanoes, Castle Cape, and the mountain peaks and wave-battered Wildlife Refuge is a land of spectacu- Pacific Coast as one of the outstanding coastline. The refuge is dominated by lar beauty with rolling tundra, tower- scenic complexes of Alaska. The Uga- Becharof Lake, the second largest lake ing mountain peaks and wave-battered shik and Chignik Units of the Alaska in Alaska. The lake covers one-fourth coastline. It’s boundaries encompass Peninsula Refuge also provide pristine of the refuge and is surrounded by low approximately 2,648,100 acres of im- habitat to many significant fish and pressive land stretching for almost 340 wildlife resources, and offer many miles along the Alaska Peninsula subsistence and recreational opportuni- climbing from sea level to the summit ties. For more information on Be- of Mt. Veniaminof at 8,225 feet. The charof National Wildlife Refuge, visit refuge is managed to conserve the fish its web site at http:// and wildlife population and their habi- alaskapeninsula.fws.gov. tats with special em- phasis on brown bears, caribou, ma-

Mark Emery rine mammals, migratory birds, raptors rolling hills, tundra wetlands, and vol- and salmon. canic peaks. The Alaska Pen- Becharof provides important habi- insula Refuge con- tat for many fish and wildlife species. tains many unique

The population includes brown bear, geologic and scenic Service Fish Wildlife & US moose, caribou, wolf, wolverine, fox,

years of excessive and uncontrolled Island and state waters within 3 miles public use of the area that often put of Round Island is allowed only by people and bears in danger. The goal permit and when Sanctuary staff are of the permit program is to provide the present, usually between May 1 and public with an opportunity to view and August 15. Flying low over the island photograph bears while minimizing can cause walrus and seabird distur- their impacts to bears and wildlife bance and is prohibited under the Ma- habitats. The program limits the num- rine Mammal Protection Act. Each ber of people who may be present at McNeil River Falls (or the other view- Robert Angell Angell Robert ing locations) to no more than 10 between June 7 and August 25. For McNeil River State Game more information on McNeil River Sanctuary State Game Sanctuary, visit its website Visiting the McNeil River State at www.wildlife.alaska.gov. Game Sanctuary is a unique wildlife experience. Nowhere else in the world Walrus Islands State Game can you see up to 100 wild brown bears come and go throughout the day Sanctuary and have the possibility of photograph- Walrus Islands State Game Sanctu- ing a group of 40 or more bears at one ary is world famous for its unique con- time! Brown bears congregate at centrations of walrus. Best known McNeil River during summer because among the Walrus Islands is Round the river and nearby creeks have an Island, where each summer large num- abundant supply of spawning salmon. bers of male walruses haul out on The sanctuary protects about 200 exposed, rocky beaches. Round Island square miles of wildlife habitat and is is one of four major terrestrial haulouts located approximately 250 air miles in Alaska; Walrus return to these hau- southwest of Anchorage, 90 miles louts every spring as the ice pack re- northeast of King Salmon and 50 miles cedes northward, remaining hauled out

southeast of Iliamna. In addition to on the beach for several days between Hyde John brown bears and salmon, red fox, arc- each feeding foray. Up to 14,000 wal- tic ground squirrels, harbor seals and rus have been counted on Round Is- summer visitors log hundreds of visi- bald eagles are commonly observed. land in a single day. However, the tor days on Round Island, and twelve Other wildlife that may be observed in number of walrus using the island camping and five day-use permits can the sanctuary includes moose, caribou, fluctuates significantly from year to be issued at a time. Because driving wolves, wolverine, various furbearers, year. rain, winds, and rough seas are com- waterfowl, sea ducks and sea birds. mon, visits are extremely weather de- McNeil River and nearby Mikfik pendent and visitors should come pre- Creek drain into Kamishak Bay in the pared with adequate raingear, foot- shadow of Augustine Island, an active wear, food, and equipment. Access to volcano. This is a roadless area with other islands in the Sanctuary does not no modern amenities and it is virtually require a permit. A visit to Black Rock undisturbed by human development. to view harbor seals and cormorants is A permit program administered by a high point for many visitors. For the Alaska Department of Fish & more information about Walrus Is- Game manages visitor numbers and lands State Game Sanctuary, visit its activities in the sanctuary. The permit web site at www.wildlife.alaska.gov. program was developed after many Boat access to Round Robert Angell

Residents of the region gather to moisturize your skin. Back many plants both to eat and for me- Native before make-up was available dicinal purposes. Berry picking is a Native women in the village would use family and social activity. Often cranberries as a blush for their times families will spend hours a cheeks. day together out picking berries at PlantsPlants the best local patches. During the are usually used in agutak or turned summer months, residents must be into jams and syrups. There are not Fireweed aware of wandering bears who may be many medicinal uses for this berry, but Fireweed grows all over the vil- hungry a sweet treat themselves. De- seedless cloudberry juice can be drank lage. The spring shoots of a fireweed spite the modern goods available in the to cure a case of hives. are high in vitamins A and C. Shoots villages, berry picking remains one of may be boiled or steamed just as one the preferred methods for residents to would with vegetables. The pinkish- subsist. Listed below are some of the Highbush Cranberry purple petals can be used to make jelly plants and berries most commonly In Yupik highbush cranberries are or fireweed honey. The plant also has gathered. called gitethbuq. These plants look several medicinal uses. When feeling similar to Alder trees with small red ill the leaves may settle an upset stom- berries on them. Many people collect ach or to stimulate the bowels to re- Beach Pea them in late fall before the first few lieve constipation. Beach peas (Lthyrus is its scientific frosts. These berries can be used for name), grow where there is plenty of many purposes. Jams, jellies, sauce, sand and gravel beaches. They usually and catsups are a few of the uses for Labrador Tea have a pinkish-red to purple "pea" highbush cranberries. Highbush cran- Aute is Yupik for Labrador tea, blossom with wings and a smooth berries also have a few medicinal uses which is characterized by its unique pod. These are often labeled as poi- - the bark decoctions are used to help smell and the great tasting tea it steeps. sonous, but if eaten in moderation like heal wounds and prevent infections, Labrador tea is usually harvested in any other food they are safe and and can be boiled and then sipped to the summer when the leaves are green, healthy. Called jinkuthudak by the help suppress menstrual cramps. but can also be picked and used in the Yupik, they are often eaten stir-fried, winter. Tea is extracted from the plant boiled and seasoned, or raw. The by pouring boiling water over the beach pea also has medicinal uses. Lowbush Cranberry plants leaves. Spices may be added to Cranberries are a local favorite for the tea in an effort to achieve different making breads, fish agutak, and syr- flavors, or add a modicum of sugar Cloudberry / Salmonberry ups. They grow everywhere in the may be added to sweeten the brew. The cloudberry is also called sal- region. The berries are usually ripen There are many medicinal uses for monberry in certain parts of Alaska, or near the end of summer and early fall. Labrador Tea; some include soothing atchslupiat in Yupik. It is a small Since they grow so abundantly they an upset stomach, relieving food poi- woody shrub, which bears a fruit that are easy to pick and even easier to soning symptoms, and easing arthritis. looks like a cloud of salmon clean. Cranberries are used for sore —Igiugig Village Council eggs. They are usually harvested throats and to aid digestion. Cranber- when they have turned to a dark or- ries can also be used as dyes for ange color and are soft. These berries clothes, grass for basket weaving, and

Beach Pea Salmonberry Highbush Cranberry Lowbush Cranberry Fireweed Labrador Tea 13

specializes in commercial Commercial fishing information. The best Commercial time to see this very exciting

An excerpt from a commercial FishingFishing fisherman’s diary:

the salmon that reproduce to insure — 8:00 am July 12, 1984 — We made the future of our great resource. In our opening set the same place as last 1998 over 6,000,000 sockeye salmon time, just outside the lower end of the escaped up the six rivers that flow cutbank. It was more crowded than the into Bristol Bay to reproduce. There last time but Mike made a good set. are over 1,800 boats and over 1,000 The net just smoked. We did manage to set nets that take part in this truly mess up our last 25 fathoms. When we spectacular industry. The salmon are pulled it, it was in a big ball and sunk. processed, for the most part, by on- We ended up cutting the fish out and shore based factories called canneries, then stripped that 25 fathoms. We where they can, as well as freeze, the

Mark Emery caught, cleared and delivered 9,818 salmon. pounds in 5 hours. One set. We went There are 14 major processors upriver from Graveyard and threw the here in the area with 8 of them located anchor for a couple hours. Now we are “We pulla da net to makea da mon to in the entrance of the Naknek River. drifting down off salmon flats. Not buy a bread to getta strength to pulla There are several reputable air taxi much happening anywhere so we’re da net——” Fish and Ships companies, both fixed wing and heli- going to let soak for a while. I’m going copter, offering tours over the com- to stretch out and close my eyes for a mercial fishing grounds. There is also bit.—— a land (bus) tour that offers a tour that One of the more exciting summer activities in all of Bristol Bay, and possibly the whole state of Alaska, is commercial fishing for sockeye salmon. Bristol Bay is known as ‘the sockeye salmon capital of the world’. The six rivers (Naknek, Kvichak, Nushagak, To- giak, Ugashik and Egegik) that make up the commercial fisheries here in southwest Alaska produce more sockeye salmon, known as ‘red’ salmon, than any other place in the world. It is a multifaceted industry with each aspect being totally awesome in itself. The aspect of highest priority is that of ‘escapement’, which is a predetermined number of salmon that management allows to ‘escape’

the commercial fisheries. These are Emery Mark

mercial salmon fishing in Bris- tol Bay, the fishing boats were restricted to sail power. When

ery Em this restriction was finally lifted rk Ma in 1951, it took only 7 short years to outfit all the boats (approximately 1,500) with diesel or gas engines. In the late 1920’s another law was passed restricting the length of the boats to 32 feet. This law holds true even today. In 1974, the state of Alaska enacted perhaps the most significant restriction to date; that being, the limited entry permit system, which restricts

History Bay Historical Society Bristol the number of commercial fish- of ing permits allowed to harvest salmon in the six river system here in Bristol about 4 weeks (usually the 3rd week Commercial Bay. There have been years in the in June through the 3rd week in July) recent past where the total run of sock- creating the ‘fastest paced commercial Salmon Fishing in eye salmon in Bristol Bay has ex- salmon season’ in the world. Com- ceeded 60 million fish. A very effec- mercial fishing is definitely the main- Bristol Bay, Alaska tive management allows over a quarter stay of our economy and a big reason

of the total run to escape up the rivers why we boast of being the “sockeye The act of commercially canning to ensure a very colorful and lucrative salmon capital of the world”. salmon on the west coast got its start future. All this action happens in -- Tim Cook in the small town of Washington, Cali- fornia in 1864. That first year the firm Hapgood, Hume & Co. canned 2,000 cases of sockeye salmon. As time went by, the tentacles of commercial salmon fishing stretched with alarming speed ever northward. By the late 1890’s there were companies that had ventured as far north as Prince Wil- liam Sound and the Kodiak Island area of Alaska. Just prior to the turn of the century, news of “red gold” reached the commercial fishing community. It was said that the six rivers (the Naknek, Kvichak, Nushagak, Egegik, Togiak and Ugashik) in Bristol Bay had more sockeye (red) salmon than any other river system in the world.

During the first 50 years of com- Emery Mark

Plan Ahead to 4:30 p.m. Monday TipsTips forfor through Friday. The King To make the most of your Salmon Visitor Center is visit to Southwest Alaska, an inter-agency project keep two things in mind; plan with the U.S. Fish and ahead and stay flexible. Wildlife Service, National Make advance reservations for TravelersTravelers those experienced boat operators, Park Service, Bristol Bay transportation, lodging, and tours Borough and Lake & Peninsula Bor- whenever possible. However, be pre- rental boats are available. By road — The Alaska Peninsula ough. The Visitor Center serves as a pared to make changes depending on distribution center for information weather, tides, and flying and boating Highway, a 14-mile paved road connects the villages of King Salmon and about the Bristol Bay area and is a conditions. You’ll soon find that a good source for specific information trip to Bristol Bay means adjusting to Naknek. A maintained gravel road connects King Salmon with Naknek when you are planning a trip to the rhythms of nature. Southwest Alaska.

Getting to Bristol What to Wear & Bay The only way to reach the Bring region is by air. Numerous The only dress code in Bris- commercial air carriers service tol Bay is comfort. A func- Iliamna and King Salmon from tional article of clothing is Anchorage, a 1 to 1½ hour more highly prized than the flight. Schedules vary by latest fashions. The easiest season, ranging from 2 to 8 way to adapt to the fre- flights daily. See the airline quently changing weather is listing for reservation num- to dress in layers. Start with bers. a light layer, add a sweater or sweatshirt and top it off

Mark Emery with a weatherproof jacket. Getting Around It is easier to take off a layer, than to By air — Small aircraft have re- put on what you don’t have. Don’t Lake and several points along the placed the automobile as the major forget to pack your rain gear and wa- Naknek River. Taxi services are mode of transportation to many bush terproof footwear. During the winter available and are often on-hand to communities. Scheduled flights from months add a down or fiberfill jacket, meet most commercial flights. Rental King Salmon travel to Dillingham, and other cold weather gear. vehicles are available in both King Egegik, Pilot Point, Levelock and If you are planning to tour by Salmon and Naknek. other villages. Air taxis whisk visitors floatplane or boat, hip boots or knee to remote locations for backcountry boots are good accessories. Some adventures or scenic flight seeing Visitor Information operators offer loaner boots, but be excursions. A good place to begin your visit to certain to ask ahead. The local sport- the Alaska Peninsula is the King ing goods stores can offer advice on By boat — Tour boats routinely Salmon Visitor Center. The Center is equipment and gear for your trip. Be carry visitors across Naknek Lake, conveniently located at the King sure to bring your camera, binoculars one of the largest freshwater lakes in Salmon Airport near the Pen Air & or spotting scopes. Film can be pur- Alaska, to the Brooks Camp area of Alaska Airlines terminal. During the chased locally. Bug nets and insect Katmai National Park. Charter boats summer season it is open daily from repellent are often required for enjoy- are also available for sight-seeing, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Fall, winter and ment of the inland areas; these items fishing or hunting excursions. For spring operating hours are 9:00 a.m. can also be purchased locally.

be fooled into be- • The Alaska Almanac: Facts lieving that what About Alaska, Alaska Northwest appears to be flat Books tundra is easily trav- • Katmai National Park & Pre- ersed. Thick, serve, Jean Bodeau spongy tundra vege- • Readings from Southwest tation hides the un- Alaska, John Branson evenness of the ter- • Brown Bears of Brooks River, rain and can make Ron Squibb & Tamara Olson walking difficult. • Guide to the Birds of Alaska, Always give your- Robert Armstrong self extra time to • Down By the River, Sara reach your destina- Donkersloot tion. • Reaching Home, N. Fobes Observe wildlife • The Silver Years, Alaska Geo- Mark Emery viewing guidelines and bear country graphic, Vol. 3, No. 4 precautions listed on page 3. Careful planning, the right gear, • Wildlife Notebook Series, Alaska Be Prepared and common sense will ensure a safe Department of Fish and Game Planning for your Bristol Bay ad- and enjoyable outdoor adventure. • Field Guide to Alaskan Wild- venture should always include an on- flowers, Vera Pratt going awareness of weather, terrain, • Tanaina Plantlore, P. Kari vegetation, wildlife and emergency Emergency Preparedness • Alaska’s Volcanoes, Alaska preparedness. Wherever your plans may take Geographic, Vol. 18, No. 2 The only certainty about the you, be prepared for the unexpected. • Becharof and Alaska Peninsula weather in Bristol Bay is that it Take extra supplies and provisions in National Wildlife Refuges, changes frequently. The latest weather case weather delays your plans. Video predictions for the area can be ob- Clothing may be your most vital • Trails Illustrated Map – Katmai tained from the National Weather Ser- piece of emergency equipment. In National Park & Preserve vice Weather Line: 1-800-472-0391 addition to dressing in layers, wear enter 2-1-1 at the recording or, to fol- waterproof boots for boat and air char- low the menu options, press 2 for ter landings. Take precautions to pre- Southwest Alaska, then 1 for Bristol vent hypother- Mark Emery Bay, then 1 for King Salmon, Naknek mia in the & Dillingham. backcountry; Topographic maps and nautical drink plenty of charts are available at the King water, bring Salmon Visitor Center or local sport- along conven- ing goods stores. For hiking trips, ient trail compasses are recommended for ori- snacks, keep as entation in dense vegetation. Even an dry as possible, experienced hiker can become disori- and bring ented when traversing alder thickets. along a light- Several local plants can cause skin weight solar irritation, rashes, and even chemical- blanket in case like burns. Wild celery, also known as of emergency. poochki, and devil’s club are two plants that all campers and backcoun- Suggested try trekkers should avoid. Reading Plan your routes carefully. Don’t

and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter LeaveLeave NoNo TraceTrace cool ashes.

6. Respect Wildlife Observe wildlife from a dis- GuidelinesGuidelines tance. Do not follow or ap- proach them. Never feed ani- 3. Dispose of Waste Properly mals. Feeding wildlife damages their Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your health, alters natural behaviors, and campsite and rest areas for trash or exposes them to predators and other spilled foods. Pack out all trash, left- dangers. Protect wildlife and your over food, and litter. Deposit solid food by storing rations and trash se- human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 curely. Control pets at all times, or inches deep at least 200 feet from wa- leave them at home. Avoid wildlife ter, camp, and trails. Cover and dis- during sensitive times: mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.

Mark Emery Emery Mark guise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. 7. Be Considerate of Other Visi- 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare To wash yourself or your dishes, carry Know the regulations and special water 200 feet away from streams or tors concerns for the area you'll visit. Pre- lakes and use small amounts of biode- Respect other visitors and protect pare for extreme weather, hazards, and gradable soap. Scatter strained dishwa- the quality of their experience. Be emergencies. Schedule your trip to ter. courteous. Yield to other users on the avoid times of high use. Visit in small trail. Step to the downhill side of the groups. Split larger parties into groups 4. Leave What You Find trail when encountering pack stock. of 4-6. Repackage food to minimize Preserve the past: examine, but do Take breaks and camp away from waste. Use a map and compass to not touch, cultural or historic struc- trails and other visitors. Let nature's eliminate the use of marking paint, tures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and rock cairns or flagging. and other natural objects as you find noises. them. Avoid introducing or transport- To learn more about the nation- 2. Travel and Camp on Durable ing non-native species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches. wide Leave No Trace program call Surfaces (800) 322-4100 or visit its web site at Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, 5. Minimize Camp- gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect fire Impacts riparian areas by camping at least 200 Campfires can cause feet from lakes and streams. Good lasting impacts to the campsites are found, not made. Alter- backcountry. Use a light- ing a site is not necessary. In popular weight stove for cooking areas: Concentrate use on existing and enjoy a candle lan- trails and campsites. Walk single file tern for light. Where in the middle of the trail, even when fires are permitted, use wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. established fire rings, fire Focus activity in areas where vegeta- pans, or mound fires. tion is absent. In pristine areas: Dis- Keep fires small. Only perse use to prevent the creation of use sticks from the campsites and trails. Avoid places ground that can be broken Mark Emery where impacts are just beginning. by hand. Burn all wood

(Population 601) Airport Terminal is the Naknek King Salmon Visitor Center Located on the north shore AtAt HomeHome InIn with its displays and exhib- near the mouth of the Naknek its, including a large relief River, the village of Naknek map of the area, wildlife is the seat of the 531 square- exhibits and cultural dis- mile Bristol Bay Borough. BristolBristol BayBay BoroughBorough plays. Stop here ar the Incorporated in 1962, the Bristol Bay beginning of your trip to pick up bro- chures and information about the area, to watch one of their many videos, or to pick up books about the area to read on that long flight home.

South Naknek (Population 88) Located across the river from Nak- nek, South Naknek is a more traditional Alaskan community. The native village of Qinuyang was once located here. Many villagers came to South

Mark Emery Naknek from the villages of New and

Old Savonoski. Old Savonoski was Borough is the oldest borough in the King Salmon (Population 404) located near the Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smokes and was abandoned aftr state. Yup’ik Eskimos and Athabas- Your visit to Bristol Bay will likely the 1912 eruption of Novarupta in Kat- can Indians first settled this area over begin in King Salmon, site of a U.S. mai National Park. Today, commer- 6,000 years ago. Air Force Base during World War II. cial fishing and salmon processing are In 1821, the original Eskimo vil- With its 8,500 foot runway, the King the economic mainstays of South Nak- lage was recorded as Naugeik. By the Salmon airport hosts visitors enroute nek. time the first census was taken in to wilderness and fishing adventures in South Naknek is not accessible by 1880, the village was called Kinuyak. the area. During the busy summer road, although for several months dur- It was later spelled Naknek by Captain months the airport will see commercial ing most winters vehicle travel across Tebenkov of the Imperial Russian cargo, passenger and private jets along the frozen Naknek River is possible. Navy. The Russians built a fort near with military training flights. King Children here are flown daily to attend the village and fur trappers inhabited Salmon is also the jumping off point school in Naknek, riding the nation’s the area for some time prior to the U.S. for smaller commuter flights to outly- only flying school bus. purchase of Alaska. ing areas, including a float plane base The first salmon cannery opened for flights to Kat- on the Naknek River in 1890. By mai National Park, 1900, there were approximately 12 the Alagnak Wild canneries in Bristol Bay. One hundred River and Be- years later, Naknek’s economy is still charof National based on salmon fishing and process- Wildlife Refuge. ing. Over the years, Naknek has de- A visit to the King veloped into a major center for the Salmon City Dock Bristol Bay commercial sockeye to watch float salmon fishery. During the summer plane traffic is well months, the population swells to about worth the walk. five thousand, most of whom are fish- Next door to

ermen and cannery processor workers. the King Salmon Emery Mark

ketball tournament, live entertainment, crowd wanted to see blood or at least Bristol Bay dart tournaments, turkey bowling and goose bumps and icicles. Each year a other activities. And to quench your hole is cut in the ice of Airplane Lake, Celebrations appetite after all that fun, you may where wind chills of 50 below and air want to attend the dessert social, chili tem peratures as low as –20 haven’t cook-off, or pancake feed. kept the crowds away or the jumpers Fishtival out of the water. Fishtival is a celebration to cap off -- Allen Gilliland the commercial fishing season in Bris- The Penguin Dip tol Bay. It is usually held the last The Pengin Dip is a week of July. The celebration begins local remedy to an ail- with a parade and a salmon barbeque. ment known as cabin Other special events include rubber fever and is one of the duck races, dart tournaments, pool highlights of Winterfest. tournaments, chili cook off, beer/wine Commercial fishing, tasting, barbecue, watermelon eating sport fishing and other contests, judging of canned goods, outdoor water related pies, cookies and crafts. South Naknek forms of work and play hosts the oyster eating contest and lots are vital to life in Bristol more. Bay. It seemed only natural to include water in the Win- terfest activities, even if it was covered Allen Gilliland with up to 4-feet of ice. The Penguin Dip origi- nated in February 1992 as a demon- stration of the life Where to Worship saving advantages of having a survival King Salmon suit on your boat. Community Baptist Church 246-3365 Every commercial St. Theresa Catholic Church 246-3757 fisherman knows, going into Alaskan Naknek waters leaves one Naknek Community Church 246-4470 with only minutes Soul’s Harbor 246-6197 until hypothermia will incapaci- Russian Orthodox Church 246-2252

Melanie PergielMelanie tate the victim. After that first United Pentecostal Church 246-6670 Winterfest year’s survival suit demonstra- Naknek Lutheran Church 246-6624 Winterfest is held the first week in tion, a few hardy souls jumped Church of Jesus Christ of February as a celebration of winter in into the icy lake wearing only Latter Day Saints 246-3400 the northland. Activities during Win- shorts. terfest include ice fishing, dogsled Well, the rest is history; so South Naknek races, ice skating and cross country much for education. The enter- South Naknek Lutheran 246-6693 skiing. Activities with a local flair tainment went to the brave or Russian Orthodox 246-6524 or 6531 include snowmobile poker run, snow- foolish ones that jumped with Catholic Church 246-6545 shoe races, penguin dip, bazaar, bas- shorts and sometimes shirt. The

Borough composed of Native People of about 52% non-native and the other 48% a

Bristol Bay… Mark Emery mix of Alaska Native cultures. The economy A Cultural Mix is based on government employment, salmon Eskimos, Aleuts, and Athabascan fishing and processing. Indians used this area of the Naknek Naknek has a seasonal River during the past 6,000 years. economy as a service There are numerous archeological center for the huge red sites, hunting camps, old villages and salmon fishery in Bris- evidence of use along the river and its tol Bay. 122 residents tributaries. Old Savonoski, on hold commercial fish- Savonoski River at the east end of ing permits, and several Naknek Lake, and New Savonoski thousand people typi- that time. The influence of the Kat- and Paugvik on the Naknek River are cally flood the area during the fishing mai Volcano Explosion in 1912 and all abandoned village sites. The origi- season. Millions of pounds of salmon the influenza epidemic in 1919 nearly nal Eskimo village at Naknek went are loaded onto ships, or trucked over decimated the Naknek people and through various names as recorded by the Naknek-King Salmon road each area. According to oral history there the Russians after they arrived in the summer for transport to market. were only about three original fami- area in 1819 (1821-“Naugeik”; 1880- -- Naknek Native Village Council “Kinuyak”; and finally Naknek as lies left at that time. named by Russian Navy Captain Te- The Russian Orthodox Church benkov). was the first entity to obtain land un- Historical The Russians built a fort at the der the U.S. Government after the site of present day Naknek and fur Treaty of Cession in 1867. Under the Milestones Homestead Act, the Russian Church trade was an economic use of the area obtained title to much of the ground for a while. In 1883 the first salmon The Russian Era cannery was open in Bristol Bay; that currently comprises Naknek. Russian exploration of Bristol then, in 1890, one opened on the They provided lots to residents who Bay may have occurred as early as Naknek River, and a fishery related built around the Church. The canner- 1791 when Dmitry Bocharov crossed economy has been the mainstay since ies and fishing industry drew many residents from other Alaska Native the Alaska Peninsula in the vicinity villages, and from of the lake that now bears his name fishing communities (in slightly modified form – Be- and countries creating charof). But exploration did not begin a mixing of cultures in earnest until 1818 with an expedi- built upon the return- tion led by Petr Korsakovski. The ing salmon. Russians built a fort at present day This mixing of peo- Naknek and fur trade was an eco- ples involved in the nomic use of the area for a while. fishing industry has The most lasting legacy of the caused the communi- Russian era is the Russian Orthodox ties to be comprised religion. The first chapel was con- of an international structed in the 1870s. A tiny later culture in many ways. chapel can be found behind the Bris- The result is an al- tol Bay Borough building surrounded most unique culture by a small cemetery with the distinc-

Mark Emery of the Bristol Bay tive Russian Orthodox crosses.

eral days before the colossal explo- darkness and the island was cloaked The American Period sion, many Natives fled their villages. under gray drifts of ash several feet In 1867, after the purchase of Although the eruption was the most thick. Alaska by the United States, the San voluminous volcanic eruption of the The sound of the eruption was Francisco firm of Hutchison, Kohl and heard in Juneau, 750 Company purchased miles away and in the assets of the Rus- Fairbanks 500 miles sian-American Com- northeast. Two feet pany. It was later of ash covered an reorganized to form area of 2,500 square the Alaska Commer- miles and dust fell in cial Company, which Puget Sound, 1,500 operated until the end miles away. of the 19th century. In 1916, Robert F. A commercial Griggs led a National development in Bris- Geographic expedi- tol Bay that had a tion over Katmai Pass greater and more and saw, for the first lasting effect on the time, the Valley of people of this region Ten Thousand than the fur trade was Smokes. Two years the salmon fishing later, the area was industry. In the Nak- Bristol Bay Historical Society designated Katmai National Monu- nek River region twentieth century, few people ment. commercial fishing began in the early 1890s when salteries were established witnessed it and, miraculously, nobody a short distance WWII above the river’s In 1941, at the begin- mouth. In 1894 the ning of World War first cannery was II, the U.S. built an constructed. Today air base in King there are 6 canneries Salmon. The base along the Naknek was a major military River and commer- installation in west- cial fishing still plays ern Alaska. Al- a primary role in the though the air base economy of the area. was self contained, To arrange a guided the village grew up tour and learn more around it. In 1949, a of the history of the post office was estab- area, see the Tours lished and the U.S. listing . Army Corps of Engi- neers constructed a Bristol Bay Historical Society was killed or hurt. road to Naknek. In 1912 Eruption The ash cloud from the eruption 1993, the Air Force Life forever changed on June 6, darkened the sky over Kodiak, blotting Station went into caretaker status, but 1912 for those living in the shadow of out all daylight. When the ashfall fi- periodic military activities still occur Mt. Katmai. Forewarned by the jolt- nally dwindled on the morning of June here. Today, the state-owned airport ing and rumbling of the earth for sev- 9th, Kodiak had experienced two days with its 8,500-foot paved runway has and three nights of nearly unbroken allowed King Salmon to develop into a 23

Naknek 26. Pac Man Fisheries 33. Camai Medical Center 1. Pederson Point Cannery 27. Tibbetts Field 34. Kvimarvik Swimming Pool 2. Bristol Bay Viewing Platform 28. Kings Apartments 35. Southwest Elders Home 3. Peter Pan Seafoods 29. Delta Western Fuels 36. Bristol Bay Borough School & 4. Public Campground 30. Al & Lou’s Bed & Breakfast Administrative Offices 5. Baywatch Seafoods 31. Naknek Post Office 37. Peninsula Automotive & Repair 6. D & D Restaurant & 32. Naknek Electric Association (gasoline) Hotel 7. Fisherman’s Bar and Liquor Store 8. Hadfield’s Bar and Liquor Store 9. Naknek Native Vil- lage Council & Health Clinic 10. Naknek Trading Lumber Yard 11. Naknek Airport & Airport Lake— Aviation channel 122.9 12. King Air (avgas) - Aviation channel 131.9 13. Russian Orthodox Church 14. Red Dog Restaurant Bar/Hotel 15. Lundgren Building Historical Site 16. Naknek Lutheran Church 17. Katmai Boys & Girls Club 18. Bristol Bay Borough Offices 19. Naknek Volunteer Fire Department 20. Naknek Historical Cemetery 21. Naknek Engine Sales & Service (gasoline) 22. Martin Monsen Li- brary 23. Tundra Sub 24. Naknek Trading Company 25. Apple Haus Bed & Breakfast

38. Ocean Beauty Seafoods 45. NAPA Auto Parts Transfer 39. Naknek Community Church 46. Paug-Vik, Inc. 50. Sasser Enterprises (glass) 40. Souls Harbor Church 47. Port of Bristol Bay Dock / Bristol 51. Cedar Village / Captain’s Cabins 41. Trident Seafoods Bay Borough Public Works / Pub- 52. KAKN Radio Station 42. Alaska General Seafoods lic Fish Grinder 53. DaKine Enterprises 43. Bering Sea Adventures 48. BBC Storage Yard 54. YAK / Red Salmon Cannery 44. UAF Naknek/Inlet Salmon 49. Brycee B’s Hair & Gifts/ Monsen 55. Jake Custer Enterprises 56. Nacho Mama’s 57. Coastal Surveyors 58. Bristol Bay Sup- ply 59. S.A.C. 60. Leader Creek Fish / Watzituya Net Hanging 61. LFS Marine Sup- plies / Boat Storage 62. Icicle Seafoods 63. Chuck’s Boat Storage & Car Rentals 64. Yacht Club Boat Storage 65. Leader Creek Boat Storage 66. D&E Boat Storage 67. Adams Enterprises 68. Redline Taxi / Jodie’s Idea’s

South Naknek 1. Louis Harris Cabin on Beach His- torical Site 2. Bumble Bee Sea- food Cannery Histori- cal Site 3. The Pit Bar 4. South Naknek Native Village Council 5. South Naknek School 6. South Naknek Cemetery Historical Site 7. Trident Seafoods South Naknek 8. South Naknek Airport 9. Peter Pan Warren

King Salmon Police Department 31. U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, 1. King Salmon Post Office 27. King Salmon Air Force Base Han- Alaska Dept. of Fish & Game 2. King Salmon Village Council gars 32. Bristol Bay Telephone Cooperative 3. Tiaga View Apartments 28. Peninsula Airways, Northern Air 33. Charlie’s Sport Shop 4. Bear Trail Lodge Cargo, Alaska Airlines 34. Dave’s World 5. King Salmon Inn (Formerly the 29. King Salmon Visitor Center 35. Bristol Bay Borough Public Boat Ponderosa Inn) 30. King Air Hangar / Hair Shapers Launch 6. Fundeen’s Apart- ments 7. Bristol Bay Contrac- tors 8. Terry’s Repair 9. Johnson Drilling 10. West Housing 11. F.A.A Housing 12. Diamond Lodge 13. King Salmon Park 14. North/South Bluff Monument Camp 15. Lake and Peninsula Borough / School District Administra- tion Offices 16. King Salmon Vol- unteer Fire Dept. 17. Quinnat Landing Hotel 18. King Salmon Air Force Base 19. Eddies Fireplace Inn / Bay Amuse- ment 20. Antlers Inn 21. Alaska Commercial Company 22. King Salmon Air Force Fire Dept. 23. Prestage’s Sportfish- ing Lodge 24. King Ko Inn 25. King Salmon Mall (Wells Fargo Bank, Aurora Florealis Designs, Fireweeds Catering & Salad Shop, National Park Service Headquar- ters 26. Bristol Bay Borough

36. Katmai Air 44. Scenic Overlook 51. Road to Rapids Camp, NPS Public 37. Enchanted Lake Lodge Dock 45. F.A.A. Rock (Fishing Hole) Boat Launch, & Naknek Lake 38. King Salmon Inn Dock 46. Egli Air Haul 39. Donigal Surplus 47. Tibbitts Airmotive 40. Fundeen’s Marina 48. King Salmon General Aviation 41. Brand River Air Service Dock Parking 42. C-Air Dock 49. King Salmon Ground Service 43. No-See-Um Lodge Dock 50. Paradise Point Scenic Overlook

Located southwest of An- bounty of the Borough’s land- chorage along the Alaska Penin- scape. Salmon spawning streams sula, the Lake and Penin- AtAt HomeHome InIn attract some of the largest con- sula Borough encom- centrations of brown bear in passes approximately Alaska. Approximately 10,000 23,782 square miles of brown (grizzly) bears populate the land (roughly the size of LakeLake andand PeninsulaPeninsula region, making them more numer- West Virginia) and 7,125 square ous than people. Abundant moose miles of water, extending 400 and caribou inhabit the region. miles from Lake Clark in the BoroughBorough Other mammals include wolves, north to Ivanof Bay in the south. wolverines, river otters, red fox, It contains three National Parks (Lake provides large amounts of high quality and beaver. Sea otters, sea lions, har- Clark National Park & Preserve, Kat- habitat that support a phenomenal bor seals and migratory whales inhabit mai National Park & Preserve and amount of flora and fauna. The Bristol the shoreline and offshore waters. Aniakchak National Monu- Coastal estuaries are home ment & Preserve); two Na- to waterfowl while nesting tional Wildlife Refuges eagles, peregrine falcons, (Becharof NWR and the and thousands of seabirds Alaska Peninsula NWR); inhibit the sea cliffs. and numerous designated Wild and Scenic Rivers and State Critical Habitat Areas. Government The Lake and Peninsula The Lake and Peninsula Borough is geographically Borough was incorporated and ecologically diverse. It in April 1989 as a home- is bordered on the west by rule borough with a man- Bristol Bay and on the east ager form of government. by the Pacific Ocean. The The Borough is predomi- Bristol Bay coast is com- nately rural and contains prised of low lying wetlands seventeen communities, six and the rugged Pacific coast of which are incorporated as is dominated by numerous second-class cities. Village volcanoes of the Aleutian or Tribal Councils govern range which runs the length the remaining eleven com- of the Borough from Lake munities. Clark to Ivanof Bay. Iliamna Lake, located in the History north, is the largest fresh The Lake and Peninsula water lake in Alaska and the Borough region has been second largest in the United inhabited almost continu- States. Iliamna Lake has ously for the past 9,000 one of only two colonies of years. The area is rich in freshwater seals in the cultural resources and diver- world. Becharof Lake, located in the Bay region is recognized as a world sity. Yup’ik Eskimos, Aleuts, Atha- Bristol Bay region, is the second larg- leader in salmon productivity. Com- bascan Indians, and Inupiaq people est fresh water lake in Alaska. These mercial fishing, sport fishing and hunt- have jointly occupied the area for the lakes provide nurseries to the largest ing, bear viewing, recreation and tour- past 6,000 years. Russian explorers red salmon runs in the world. ism, and subsistence are important came to the region during the late The Lake and Peninsula Borough economic activities that rely on the 1700’s. The late 1800’s brought the

28 ations. A flu epidemic in 1918 was Tourism and recreational activities Salmon. Air taxi and charter service tragic to the Native population. Rein- are the second most important industry transport passengers from the hubs to deer were introduced to assist the survi- in the Borough, and are rapidly increas- local communities. Heavy cargo and vors, but the experiment eventually ing in economic importance. The Bor- durable goods are transported to Bor- failed. In the 1930’s, additional disease ough contains over 60 hunting and fish- ough communities by ship, barge or epidemics further decimated villages. ing lodges and approximately 100 pro- ferry. Chignik is the only community After the Japanese attack on Dutch Har- fessional guides are registered to oper- served by the Alaska Marine Highway bor during World War II, numerous ate within Borough boundaries. System, calling on the community about military facilities were 6 times per year beginning in April and constructed on the ending in October. The Williamsport – Alaska Peninsula includ- Pile Bay Haul Road provides access ing Fort Marrow at Port from the Pacific side to the Iliamna Heiden. Lake communities. Perishable goods and time-value cargo are shipped by air, typically through King Salmon, Iliamna Economy or Port Heiden. Commercial fishing and fish processing are the most significant sec- Communities tors of the economy The seventeen communities in the within the Lake and Lake and Peninsula Borough are lo- Peninsula Borough, cated within three distinct areas of the which contains three of region: the Lakes Area, the Upper Pen- the State’s most impor- insula Area, and the Chignik Area. tant salmon fishing districts: Egegik Mark Emery The Lakes Area communities include and Ugashik on the Bristol Bay, and Port Alsworth, Nondalton, Pedro Bay, Chignik on the Pacific coast. This in- Transportation Iliamna, Newhalen, Kokhanok, Igiugig dustry provides approximately 90% of The Lake and Peninsula Borough and Levelock. The Upper Peninsula all locally generated tax revenue for the contains seventeen small and widely Area communities include Egegik, Pilot Borough. The majority of Borough scattered communities. Only two, Point, Ugashik, and Port Heiden. The residents rely upon commercial fishing Iliamna and Newhalen, are connected Chignik Area communities include as a primary source of cash income. by road. There are two regional roads Chignik Bay, Chignik Lagoon, Chignik Seven shore-based processors and nu- located in the Borough: the Iliamna – Lake, Ivanof Bay, and Perryville. Bor- merous floating processors operate Nondalton Road and the Williamsport – ough communities have a combined within Borough boundaries, generally Pile Bay Road. Scheduled air service year-round population of approximately importing their workforce from outside provides transportation of passengers to 1823 people, 79.7% of which are the area. the region’s hubs in Iliamna and King Alaska Native.

Sheila Bergey 29

of the Lake Clark National Park and vide transportation to outlying vil- Lakes Area Villages Preserve are part of Dall Sheep terri- lages. Port Alsworth♦Nondalton♦Iliamna If you aren’t an experi- Newhalen♦Pedro Bay♦Kokhanok enced wilderness adven- Igiugig♦Levelock turer, the best way to experience the Lakes region All the attractions that define is to let lodge owners, Alaska—rugged mountains, pristine guides and outfitters ar- rivers and streams, abundant fish and range transportation and wildlife—can be found in this region. set up trips for you. Lim- The region’s lakes, rivers, and moun- ited services are available tains provide abundant recreational in the area and vary greatly opportunities for wilderness adventur- from community to com- ers. Anglers find trophy fish in its munity. Check the local waters, hikers explore high tundra listings in the business slope, river-runners thrill to the directory of this guide for Tlikakila, Mulchatna, and available services. Chilikadrotna Wild Rivers, and camp- tory, the only wild, white sheep in the ers find lakeshores inspirational. The world. (Population 113) region is unsurpassed for wildlife Iliamna Lake lies in the middle of Port Alsworth viewing and photographic opportuni- the region and is the largest lake in Port Alsworth is located on the ties. Alaska and the second largest in the southeast shore of Lake Clark at Lake Clark, situated in the north- U.S., at 1,115 square miles. The lake Hardenburg Bay in the Lake Clark eastern corner of the region, is nearly is distinguished for its resident popula- National Park and Preserve, 22 miles 50 miles long and is surrounded by tion of fresh water seals, one of only northeast of Nondalton and 170 miles Lake Clark National Park and Pre- two colonies of freshwater seals in the southwest of Anchorage. There are serve, one of Alaska’s often over- world. It also is reputed to harbor a two privately-owned and operated looked National Parks. The mountains sea monster known locally as Ogo airstrips in Port Alsworth: a 3,000' Pogo. long by 100' wide dirt/gravel airstrip The Kvichak (pronounced Kwee- operated by Glen Alsworth / The Farm jack) and Alagnak Rivers lie in the Lodge, and a 4,200' gravel airstrip southern-most part of the region, and operated by David and Jackie Wilder. are world-renowned for its rainbow Scheduled and charter air services are trout. A number of pristine rivers run available from Iliamna and Anchorage. through the area, including the tur- Tanalian Point, the forerunner of quoise-colored Newhalen River, which Port Alsworth and Lake Clark’s first connects Six-mile Lake and Iliamna Euro-American settlement, was settled Lake. by prospectors in the late 1880s. The Although continuously inhabited site offered ready access to nearby since early prehistoric times, the area copper prospects and the best wood remains wild and sparsely populated, fuel and timber for cabins. Dena’ina with aircraft providing the primary Athabaskan Indians lived at Tanalian means of access. There are no roads Point after prospectors established it as from the outside, and only about 20 a community. It developed into a stag- miles of gravel road within thousands ing area for the Telaquana Trail and of square miles of wilderness. Iliamna mining activities on Kontrashibuna is the transportation hub of the area, Lake and Portage Creek. Big game served by several airlines providing hunters arrived in 1921 seeking local daily scheduled flights from Anchor- guides. Pioneer bush pilot Leon Mark Emery age. Air taxis and charter service pro- “Babe” Alsworth and his wife Mary,

30 the settlement’s first postmistress, north of Iliamna and 200 miles south- tonwood, alders, willow and white were among the first settlers in the west of Anchorage. Nondalton is pri- spruce trees, Pedro Bay has one of the 1940s. Port Alsworth now has numer- marily ous fishing lodges, some open year- accessible round, and is the local headquarters for by air and the Lake Clark National Park and Pre- water. A serve. State- Local attractions include the owned 40-mile-long Lake Clark, one of the 2,800' spawning grounds for the world- long by famous Bristol Bay sockeye salmon 75' wide run; the ruins of historic Kijik village gravel Council Bay Village Pedro listed on the National Register of His- runway services the community. most attractive settings in southwest toric Places; and picturesque Tanalian Scheduled and charter air services are Alaska. Pedro Bay is accessible by air Falls. available from Anchorage and Iliamna. and water. There is a State-owned Nondalton is a Tanaina In- 3,000' long by 60' wide gravel airstrip. dian name first recorded in 1909 by Scheduled and charter air services are A STORY FROM NONDALTON the U.S. Geological Survey. The vil- available from Iliamna and Anchorage. By Antone Evan lage was originally located on the Barge service is available from Nak- Up at the head of Lake Clark, north shore of Six Mile Lake, but in nek via the Kvichak River. Goods are up in that valley, in the pass, 1940, wood depletion in the surround- also sent by barge from Homer to on each side of the valley ing area and growing mud flats caused Iliamna Bay on the Cook Inlet side and there are a lot of glaciers. the village to move to its present loca- portaged over a 14-mile road to Pile When the glaciers start melting, tion on the west shore. The post office, Bay, 10 miles to the east. all the water flows into the river. And then it flows into Lake Clark, established in 1938, relocated with the The Dena'ina Indians have Little Lake Clark. villagers. Nondalton formed an incor- inhabited this area for hundreds of It flows into Qizhjeh Vena, porated city government in 1971. years, and still live in the area. The which is known as Lake Clark. Nondalton’s St. Nicholas Russian Or- community was named for a man And then it flows into Nundaltin Vena, thodox Chapel, originally constructed known as "Old Pedro," who lived in which is known as Nondalton Lake, in 1896 and moved with the rest of the this area in the early 1900s. A post Six-mile Lake. And then it flows all the way down village, is on the National Register of office was established in the village in the Newhalen River. Historic Places. 1936. St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox And then it flows into Nilavena, Most residents in Nondalton Chapel, built in 1890, is on the Na- which is known as Lake Iliamna. are Alaska Native, primarily Dena’ina tional Register of Historic Places. And then it flows down into the outlet Athabaskins. Dena’ina values and Today, most residents obtain sum- of Iliamna Lake traditions are very strong here, where which is known as Kvichak River. mer employment in the Bristol Bay And then it flows right into the elders continue to educate the younger fishery or in Iliamna Lake tourism salt water, generation in bilingual and bicultural services. Most families depend heavily which is Bristol Bay. education in hopes of preserving their on subsistence activities, utilizing That same water from the head of culture. Residents here practice a sub- salmon, trout, moose, bear, rabbit and Lake Clark sistence lifestyle, dependent upon fish seal. Several wilderness lodges oper- travels all the way into salt water. and game for food. That is why long ago they used to say ate in Pedro Bay. water travels farther than human beings. Pedro Bay (Population 47) Pedro Bay is located at the head of

Pedro Bay in Lake Iliamna, 30 miles Nondalton (Population 205) northeast of Iliamna and 180 miles Nondalton is located on the southwest of Anchorage. Located in a west shore of Six Mile Lake, 15 miles heavily wooded area, with birch, cot- Pedro Bay Village Council 31

(Population 90) lodges. The first lodge Iliamna opened in the 1930s. A Iliamna is located on the north side second lodge was built in of Lake Iliamna, 225 miles southwest the 1950s. During the 70s of Anchorage. Iliamna is primarily and 80s, lots were made accessible by air and water. An 8-mile available by the Baptist gravel road connects Iliamna to New- Church, and additional halen, and a 22-mile road to Nondalton lodges were constructed. is under construction. There are two In recent years Iliamna paved State-owned airstrips, one meas- has become a recreational ures 5,080' long by 100' wide, the and tourist attraction due other is 4,800' long by 150' wide, these to the excellent fishing at are located between Iliamna and New- Iliamna Lake and in the halen. Additional facilities include: surrounding areas. Mark Emery float plane facilities at Slop Lake, East Many residents par- Bay and Pike Lake, a private airstrip at Newhalen includes Yup'ik Eskimos, ticipate in subsistence hunting and Alutiiq and Athabascans. Most prac- Iliamna Roadhouse, and private float fishing activities, utilizing salmon, plane access at Summit Lake. Iliamna tice a subsistence and fishing lifestyle. trout, grayling, moose, caribou, bear, Newhalen and Iliamna share a post is the transportation hub of the area, seal, porcupine and rabbits. served by several airlines providing office and school. Thousands of sport fishermen visit daily scheduled flights from Anchor- (Population 183) age. Air taxis and charter service pro- Newhalen the area each summer for trophy rain- vide transportation to outlying vil- Newhalen is located on the north bow trout fishing on the lake. Resi- lages. shore of Iliamna Lake at the mouth of dents rely heavily on subsistence ac- Prior to 1935, "Old Iliamna" was the Newhalen River, 4.5 miles south- tivities, and most families travel to fish located near the mouth of the Iliamna west of Iliamna and 230 mile south- camps during the summer.

River, a traditional Athabascan village. west of Anchorage. There are two A post office was established there in paved State-owned airstrips, one meas- Kokhanok (Population 166) 1901. Around 1935, villagers moved ures 5,080' long by 100' wide, the Kokhanok is located on the south to the present location, approximately other is 4,800' long by 150' wide, these shore of Lake Iliamna, 22 miles south 40 miles from the old site. The post are located between Iliamna and New- of Iliamna and 88 miles northeast of office followed. Iliamna's current size halen. Scheduled and charter air ser- King Salmon. Kokhanok is accessible and character can be attributed to the vices are available. A gravel road con- by air and water. A State-owned 2,920' development of fishing and hunting nects these communities and the air- long by 60' wide gravel airstrip and a port. seaplane base serve scheduled and The 1890 census listed charter air services from Anchorage, the Eskimo village of Iliamna, and King Salmon. "Noghelingamiut," The original site of Kokhanok, meaning "people of called “Isigiug”, was located 2 ½ miles Noghelin," at this loca- down the beach from the present location, with 16 residents. tion of Kokhanok. This fishing village The present name is an was first listed in the U.S. Census in anglicized version of 1890 by A.B. Schanz. The village has the original. The village a mixed Native population, primarily was established in the Aleut. Subsistence activities are the late 1800s due to the focal point of the culture and lifestyle. bountiful fish and game The village is served by the Saints in the immediate area. Peter and Paul Russian Orthodox Newhalen incorporated Church, which is on the National Reg-

Mark Emery Mark Emery as a City in 1971. ister of Historic Places.

their roots back to the Branch River village. Upper Peninsula As is typical for the region, salmon fishing is the mainstay of Igiugig's Area Villages economy. Many travel to Naknek each Egegik♦Pilot Point♦Ugashik summer to fish or work in the canneries. Port Heiden There are seven commercial lodges that serve sports fishermen and hunters sea- Katmai National Park & Preserve, sonally in Igiugig. Subsistence is an Aniakchak National Monument and LPSD LPSD important part of the residents' lifestyle. Preserve, Becharof National Wildlife Families in Igiugig, like many other Refuge, Alaska Peninsula National Native villages in Alaska, have devel- Wildlife Refuge, Aniakchak National (Population 56) Igiugig oped a unique culinary style character- Wild and Scenic River, and numerous Igiugig is located on the south shore ized by the available food and resources state critical habitat areas are all located of the Kvichak River at the southwest in nature not commonly found in the within this region, preserving the area’s end of Lake Iliamna, about 50 miles lower 48 or other industrialized parts of remarkable natural and cultural history. southwest of Iliamna and 50 miles the state. A few of their recipes are This region has been continuously northeast of King Salmon. Igiugig is shared throughout this visitor’s guide. accessible by water and air. Charter flights are available from Anchorage, Iliamna and King Salmon. The State Levelock (Population 57) owns and maintains a 3,000' long by 75' Levelock is located on the west wide gravel runway. A small public bank of the Kvichak River, 40 miles dock is available. north of Naknek, and 280 miles south- The word “Igiugig” means “like a west of Anchorage. Levelock is acces- throat that swallows water” in the sible by air and water. The State owns a Yupik language – a name clearly de- 3,281' long by 59' wide lighted gravel rived from the location of the village at runway in Levelock. Scheduled and the mouth of the Kvichak River. charter flights are available. Kiatagmuit Eskimos originally lived on Early Russian explorers reported the the north bank of the Kvichak River in presence of Levelock, which they called the village of Kaskanak, and used "Kvichak.” Kvichak was mentioned Igiugig as a summer fish camp. At the during the 1890 census, although the turn of the century, these people moved population was not measured. A 1908 occupied for the past 9,000 years. Ar- upriver to the present site of Igiugig. survey of Russian missions identified chaeological sites are scattered through- People from Branch also moved to "Lovelock's Mission" at this site. Kog- out the Alaska Peninsula, making them Igiugig as it began to develop. Today, giung Packers operated a cannery at some of the oldest sites in North Amer- about one-third of residents can trace Levelock in 1925-26. A second cannery ica. Katmai National Park and Preserve operated from 1928-29. In 1930 the first is the site of the Brooks River National school was built, and a post office was Historic Landmark with North Amer- established in 1939. During the early ica’s highest concentration of prehis- 1950s, another cannery was in opera- toric human dwellings. For those who tion. Today, Levelock is a mixed Alu- would like a glimpse into the past, a tiiq and Yup'ik village. Commercial reconstructed barabara (a semi- fishing and subsistence activities are the subterranean house) is located just a focus of the community. Sharing is a short hike west of Brooks Camp. Na- way of life in this village; no one goes tive villages of today provide a hint into hungry for lack of ability to hunt or the area’s cultural history through the fish. traditional subsistence lifestyles its resi- Igiugig Village Council dents continue to practice. 33

air. There are regularly scheduled flights from Anchorage to King Salmon, which serves as the transportation hub for the area. Air taxis and charter service provide transportation to the outlying villages of Egegik, Uga- shik, Pilot Point and Port Heiden, and other points of interest. Very limited services are available in the outlying villages and vary greatly from community to community. Check the local listings in the business directory of this guide for available services.

Egegik (Population 76) (Pronounced EE-guh-gick.) Egegik is located on the south bank of the Ege- gik River on the Alaska Peninsula, 40

Mark Emery miles southwest of King Salmon and 326 air miles southwest of Anchorage. The community is accessible by air and Forming the backbone of the Alaska caldera is part of the Aniakchak Na- water. A city-owned 5,600' long by 100' Peninsula, the Aleutian Range is part of tional Monument and Preserve. More wide lighted gravel runway with cross- the Pacific Ring of Fire, and has many recent eruptions have left behind cinder wind airstrip is located 2 miles north- large, volcanic peaks. One of the most cones, lava flows, and explosion pits west of Egegik. Scheduled and charter prominent mountains in the area, Mt. inside the caldera. Surprise Lake, lo- flights are available from King Salmon. Peulik, is located in the Becharof Na- cated in the caldera, is the source of the According to anthropologists, settle- tional Wildlife Refuge. This peak sits Aniakchak Wild River, a 27-mile river ment of the Bristol Bay region first oc- at the southern edge of Becharof Lake, which cascades through a 1,500-foot curred over 6,000 years ago. Yup'ik the second largest lake in Alaska. Other gash in the caldera wall known as “The Eskimos and Athabascan Indians jointly points of interest in the refuge include Gates.” Class III and IV rapids drop- occupied the area. Aleuts arrived in the “Gas Rocks”, where you can view ping 70-feet per mile for 13 miles, thrill later years. The first recorded contact carbon dioxide seeping through frac- experienced river runners. by non-Natives was with Russian fur tures in the rock. A hot spring in the Big-game hunting is a popular activ- traders between 1818 and 1867. The lake discharging 120-degree water can ity in this region, particularly in the village was reported by Russians as a also be found at the base of the Gas Becharof and Alaska Peninsula Wildlife fish camp called "Igagik" (meaning Rocks. Another unique geological fea- Refuges, where world-class trophy "throat") in 1876. Local people would ture in the refuge is Ukinrek Maars. moose and brown bear are regularly travel each year from Kanatak on the Maars are shallow, low-rimmed craters taken. Great sport fishing opportunities Gulf coast through a portage pass to that are caused by violent geological for salmon and fresh water species Becharof Lake. From there they would activity. The two Ukinrek Maars were abound in the waters of Becharof and hike or kayak on to the Egegik Bay area formed in 1977 along the south shore of Ugashik Lakes and their tributaries. No for summer fish camp. In 1895, an Becharof Lake. This is the only maar- matter the recreational activity – hunt- Alaska Packers Association salmon producing activity ever recorded in the ing, fishing, hiking, river-running, bird saltery was established at the mouth of United States. watching, wildlife viewing – this region Egegik River, and a town developed In the heart of the Alaska Peninsula is packed full of adventures waiting for around the former fish camp. During lies the Aniakchak Caldera. Formed those who are willing to venture off a the influenza outbreaks beginning in 3,500 years ago after the collapse of a path less traveled. 1918, Natives from other villages 7,000-foot mountain, the six-mile wide Access to this region is primarily by moved to Egegik in an attempt to iso-

were enlisted to help build the King west of Anchorage. Pilot Point is ac- peans. Reindeer herding experiments Salmon airport, with many subse- at Ugashik helped to repopulate the quently serving in Dutch Harbor and area after the devastating 1918 flu epi- elsewhere. demic, although the herding eventually Today, the economy in Egegik is failed. A Russian Orthodox Church based on commercial fishing and fish and a Seventh Day Adventist Church processing providing seasonal employ- were built in the village. A post office ment from May to August. The popu- was established in 1933, and the name lation swells by 1,000 to 2,000 fisher- was changed to Pilot Point at that time. men and cannery workers during the Today, the community is primarily of commercial fishing season. Five on- Alutiiq ancestry, with Yup'ik Eskimos, shore processors are located on the and practices a fishing and subsistence Egegik River and numerous floating lifestyle. processors participate in the Egegik The Alaska Peninsula Wildlife fishery. Local working tours of the Refuge is accessible from here by Bristol Bay set-net fishery are avail- plane or skiff up the Ugashik River. able. Check the business directory of The Alaska Peninsula Refuge offers a this guide for tour operators. variety of recreational opportunities The Becharof National Wildlife cessible by air and water. A State- including sport fishing and hunting, Refuge and Becharof Lake are accessi- owned 3,280' long by 75' wide gravel flightseeing, wildlife viewing, hiking, ble from here by plane or skiff up the airstrip is available. Regu- Egegik River where sport fishing, larly scheduled and charter hunting are wildlife viewing are popu- flights are available from lar activities. The Becharof Lake is King Salmon. Dago Creek the second largest lake in Alaska and serves as a natural harbor; a is the nursery for the world’s second dock is available. Modes of largest run of sockeye salmon. local transport include ATVs, snow machines, Pilot Point (Population 76) skiffs and trucks. This mixed Aleut and Pilot Point is located on the north- Eskimo community devel- ern coast of the Alaska Peninsula, on oped around a fish salting the east shore of Ugashik Bay. The plant established by C.A. community lies 84 air miles south of Johnson in 1889. At that Emery Mark King Salmon and 368 air miles south- time, it was called "Pilot Station," after the backpacking, boating and camping. river pilots stationed here to Refuge lands are remote and accessi- guide boats upriver to a ble only by small aircraft, boat or rug- large cannery at Ugashik. In ged cross country hiking. There are no 1892, Charles Nelson roads or maintained trails. opened a saltery which was sold the Alaska Packer's Port Heiden (Population 90) Association in 1895. The saltery continued to expand, Port Heiden is 424 miles southwest and by 1918, developed into of Anchorage, at the mouth of the a three-line cannery. Many Meshik River on the north side of the nationalities came to work Alaska Peninsula. It lies near the Ani- in the canneries - Italians, akchak National Preserve and Monu- Mark EmeryMark Chinese and northern Euro- ment. A State-owned airport consists of a lighted gravel 5,000' long by 100'

The old village of Meshik was lo- uled and charter flights are available various owners. The Briggs Way Can- cated at the current site of Port Heiden. from King Salmon. nery opened in 1963. Influenza epidemics dur- It is a traditional site of the Alutiiq, ing the early 1900s forced however very few people now live in residents to relocate to Ugashik year-round. Some of the vil- other villages. During lage's people live in nearby Pilot Point, World War II, Fort Mor- on the coast. Tribal members live row was built nearby, and throughout Alaska, California and 5,000 personnel were sta- Washington. Commercial fishing, fish tioned at the base. The processing and subsistence activities Fort was closed after sustain residents of the area. The popu- the war. A school was lation of this tiny community swells to established in the early over 200 dur- 1950s, which attracted ing the sum-

people from surround- Albecker Hattie mer as coming villages. Today, Yup'ik Eski- mercial fish- Port Heiden is a traditional Alutiiq com- mos and Aleuts ermen return munity, with a commercial fishing and jointly occu- to participate subsistence lifestyle. pied the area in the Bristol The Alaska Peninsula Wildlife Ref- historically. Bay salmon uge is accessible from Port Heiden by This Aleut fishery. small aircraft, boat or rugged cross- village was Accessible by country hiking. Popular activities in first recorded air taxi or this area include sport Albecker Hattie boat from fishing and hunting, here, the flightseeing, wildlife nearby Ugashik Lakes are world re- viewing, hiking, back- nowned for trophy arctic grayling fish- packing, boating and ing. The lakes also support large con- camping. Bird watchers centrations of lake trout and provide can easily add to their key feeding habitat for large numbers of life list since more than sockeye and coho salmon. The Ugashik 200 species of birds Narrows, where two of the largest lakes have been observed in are joined by a shallow flowing nar- this area, of which 15- rows, has out- 20 species of game standing rec- birds, shorebirds, song- Albecker Hattie reational op- birds, and raptors are year-round resi- in 1880 as portunities for dents. "Oogashik." In angling for Several bed and breakfasts are open the 1890s, the trophy arctic here year-round to accommodate visi- Red Salmon grayling, and tors. Company other popular developed a sport fish. The Ugashik (Population 12) cannery, and Narrows was (Pronounced yoo-GASH-ick.) Uga- Ugashik be- also important came one of to prehistoric shik is located on the northwest coast of Albecker Hattie the Alaska Peninsula, 16 miles up the the largest Native com- Ugashik River from Pilot Point. There villages in the region. The 1919 flu epi- munities. is a State-owned, 3,000' long by 60' demic decimated the population. The A bed and breakfast is available wide gravel runway available. Sched- cannery has continued to operate under year-round here to accommodate visi-

between April and October, and is the supplies between Chignik and San only community in the region served by Francisco. Chinese crews from San the Alaska Marine Highway System. Francisco traveled to Chignik in early ATVs and skiffs are the most common spring to make tin cans for the cannery. modes of local transportation. Japanese workers followed in mid-June Commercial fishing and subsistence to begin processing. Coal mining oc- activities are the mainstays of the econ- curred in the area from 1899 to 1915. omy in this region. Salmon, halibut, Today, as is typical of villages in the black cod, and tanner crab are harvested region, commercial salmon fishing is Chignik Anglers Chignik Anglers in the area. The Chignik area is best the mainstay of the economy. Salmon, known for its “Castle Cape Reds” herring roe, halibut, cod and crab are where fishermen use seines and seine processed here. 600 to 800 people Chignik Area Villages boats to harvest salmon bound for come to Chignik to fish or work in the Chignik Bay♦Chignik Lagoon♦ Chignik Lake and Black Lake. processing plants each summer. Chignik Lake♦Ivanof Bay♦Perryville Limited services are available in the

area and vary greatly from village to (Population This region is home to some of the village. Check the local listings in the Chignik Lagoon finest fresh and saltwater fishing in the travel directory of this guide for avail- 103) world where anglers fish for salmon, able services. Chignik Lagoon is located 8 ½ halibut, trout, ling cod, black bass, and miles west of Chignik, 16 miles east of more. Trophy Brown Bear and Moose Chignik Lake, and 280 miles east of taken from the area are listed in the top Unimak Pass (the separation between spots of the Boone and Crockett Club. the Alaska Peninsula and the Aleutian Wilderness adventures aren’t limited to Islands). It obtained its name from its fishing and hunting. Other popular ac- location and proximity to Chignik, the tivities include hiking, kayaking, bear Sugpiaq word for “big wind”. viewing, beach combing, whale watch- The area was originally populated ing, clam digging and berry picking. by Kanaiguit Eskimos. After Russian Characterized by cool summers and occupation, the intermarriage of the warm rainy winters, these five villages Kaniags and Aleuts produced Koniags. are located on the south shore of the The people of this era were sea- Alaska Peninsula, bordering the Pacific dependent, living on otter, sea lion, por- Chignik Anglers Ocean. They are the most difficult vil- poise and whale. During the Russian fur boom from 1767 to 1783, the sea lages in the region to reach by air due to (Population 92) their remote locations, frequent high Chignik Bay otter population was decimated. winds, and mountainous surroundings, (Pronounced CHIG-nick.) The vil- This, in addition to disease and warfare, but are well worth the effort. lage of Chignik Bay, often referred to as Having no land connections to Chignik, is located on Anchorage Bay, neighboring communities in the region, adjacent to the Alaska Peninsula Na- these villages are accessible only by air tional Wildlife Refuge about 450 miles and sea. Scheduled daily flights to southwest of Anchorage and 180 miles Chignik, Chignik Lagoon, Chignik south of King Salmon. Lake and Perryville are available from A village called “Kalwak” was King Salmon. Ivanof Bay is accessible originally located here, but was de- only by charter flights. Weekly barge stroyed during the Russian fur boom in service from Seattle to Chignik is avail- the late 1700s. Chignik, meaning “big able during the summer and monthly wind” was established in the late 1800s during the winter. The state ferry oper- as a fishing village and cannery. A ates bi-monthly from Kodiak to Chignik four-masted sailing ship called the “Star of Alaska” transported workers and Chignik Anglers

Sheila Bergey Bergey Sheila

reduced its Native population to less gle family who fished near Chignik (Population 110) than half its former size. Current resi- Lagoon. Other families moved from Perryville dents are of mixed Alutiiq ancestry. surrounding villages in the early 1950s Located at the south end of the Over the decades, Chignik Lagoon when a school was built. Alaska Peninsula about 265 miles became a fishing village and now The residents of Chignik Lake re- south of King Salmon, is the scenic serves, along with Chignik, as a re- tain close ties with its Alutiiq heritage village of Perryville. gional fishing center. It experiences an and practice a subsistence lifestyle. It was founded in 1912 as a refuge influx of fishermen during the summer Commercial fishing is the mainstay of for the Alutiiq people driven away months, swelling the population by Chignik Lake’s economy. Some resi- from their villages by the eruption of 200. dents leave the village during the sum- Mr. Katmai. Many villagers from mer months to commercial fish, crew Douglas and Katmai survived the erup- or work at the fish processors in tion because they were out fishing at Chignik. the time. Captain Perry of the ship “Manning” transported people from the Katmai area to Ivanof Bay, and later, to Ivanof Bay (Population 5) the new village site. The village was Ivanof Bay is located on the north- originally called “Perry”, but the east end of the Kupreanof Peninsula at “ville” was added to conform to the the north end of Ivanof Bay, about 268 post office name, established in 1930. miles south of King Salmon. The residents of Perryville maintain Ivanof Bay was named by Lt. Dall an Alutiiq culture and a subsistence of the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey lifestyle. During the summer, the main 1880. The village occupies the site jority of residents leave Perryville to of a former salmon cannery which op- fish in Chignik and Chignik Lagoon. erated from the 1930s to the early Some residents trap during the winter, 1950s. In 1956, several families and all rely heavily on subsistence food moved from Perryville to Ivanof Bay Chignik Lake (Population 113) to pursue a peaceful lifestyle, religious Chignik Lake is located next to the freedom, better water quality and better body of water bearing the same name, hunting. Ivanof Bay was recognized as 13 miles from Chignik and 16 miles an established community in 1965. west of Chignik Lagoon. The residents of this isolated vil- The present population traces its lage fish commercially for salmon and roots from Aleuts who lived on the halibut. Many trap in the winter. The west side of the Alaska Peninsula near people here are largely dependent upon Illnik and the old village of Kanatag subsistence hunting and fishing, and near Becharof Lake. In 1903, the vil- use salmon, trout, crab, clams, moose, lage was the winter residence of a sin- caribou, bear, porcupine and seals. Chignik Anglers Chignik Anglers 38