COMPLIMENTARY $3.95 2019/2020 YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE PARKS ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS

ACTIVITIES • SIGHTSEEING • DINING • LODGING TRAILS • HISTORY • MAPS • MORE

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WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WELCOME S:7.375” SO TASTY EVERYONE WILL WANT A BITE. WelcomeT:8.375” to Alaska and her incredible national parks! FUN FACTS Alaska’s parks are as varied as they are vast, and each is worthy of exploration. National Parks: Alaska is home to 23 This American Park Network guide to national parks with over two million an- Alaska’s National Parks will help you plan nual visitors. With more public land than a visit, locate services from our business any other state, the parks explore Alas- partners that will make your stay more re- ka’s beautiful terrain. warding, and encourage you to come back Land Area: Alaska is the largest state in the country; total land area is to Alaska and extend your discoveries. 586,412 square miles. The parks in Alaska are part of America’s Highest Elevation: The summit of De- 419-unit National Park System, which col- nali, at 20,320 feet, makes it the highest lectively, honor and define our nation’s peak in North America. heritage. In Alaska, the parks represent Natural Features: Alaska’s diverse both the great sweep of American history landscape ranges from North America’s and her natural abundance: artifacts of the highest peak to wild forests, lakes and earliest North Americans; the Russian co- streams, to the Aleutian Islands and the lonial period; the quest for adventure and state’s expansive coastline. gold at Klondike Gold Rush; bears, salmon, Plants and Animals: Alaska is a state caribou and eagles; and the awe-inspiring of great diversity and is home to wolves, moose, bears, whales and many more mountains and tundra. AD wild and wonderful animals. Denali Na- There are many ways to visit Alaska’s tional Park and Preserve alone protects parks. Board a boat tour at Glacier Bay or more than 750 species of flowering Kenai Fjords and marvel at worlds carved

©2019 Preferred Brands International. reserved. rights All plants and over 250 animals. by ice and the wildlife now hugging the Popular Activities: The diverse ter- park shores. Cast a line in a park such rain in Alaska’s national parks offers an as Katmai or Lake Clark. Hop on one of array of recreational activities. Hiking, the popular bus tours at Denali or use hunting, fishing, biking, dog sledding and the shuttle buses to craft your own trip. wildlife watching are great ways to expe- Step out on a hike on one of the well- rience the wilderness. maintained paths in the entrance areas Hiking: Alaska has miles of estab- lished trails and guided tours into the wil- of several parks, or explore the vast wild- derness are available at many parks. ness that awaits in the backcountry of Dog Sledding: Denali uses sled Alaska’s parks. To learn more about the dogs to help patrol the two million adventures Alaska can offer, log on to acres of wilderness where motor- TASTY BITE® is all-natural nps.gov/experiencealaska. ized vehicles are prohibited. Meet the and perfect for the trail. Look However you’ve arrived in Alaska, we huskies up close and tour the park’s for the yellow pouch in the international food aisle.* hope your itinerary includes our national kennels. tastybite.com parks - and we hope to see you again. *Keep wildlife wild; Don’t feed the animals. | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 1

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FINAL Client: Tasty Bite APPROVAL SIGNATURES ROUND(s) 3 Filename: 19tas_2967_Q2_Print_Oh-Ranger.indd SIZE / Date: 4-2-2019 2:32 PM MECHANICAL SPECS (w x h) FONTS & IMAGES PROOF FORMAT Job #: 2967 Bleed: 5.875” x 8.875” Fonts TRAFFIC Insert Date: 4/1 Trim: 5.375” x 8.375” Knockout (HTF49 Liteweight), Acumin Pro Condensed (Light), Pubs or Loc: PROD. Oh Ranger Viewing: 5.375” x 8.375” Acumin Pro (Black, Regular, Bold) Magazine Description: None Live: 4.75” x 7.375” Images STUDIO Scale: 1” = 1” Print Tasty Bite Final 032919-CMYK.psd (CMYK; 448 ppi, 494 ppi; AD Notes: None ACTUAL SIZE (w x h) 66.93%, 60.7%), Tasty_Bite_Logo.ai (17.81%), Tasty Bite Final 032919-Product.psd (CMYK; 536 ppi; 55.95%) CW Bleed: 5.875” x 8.875” Mekanism Trim: 5.375” x 8.375” Inks CD 640 Second St Viewing: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black SF, CA 94107 5.375” x 8.375” BM 415.908.4000 Live: 4.75” x 7.375” Gutter: None Designer: Dustin Page Printed at: None CLIENT WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK CONTENTS

Unforgettable Adventures. Welcome 1 What’s New! 4

American Park Network® publishes OhRanger. Park Regulations & Safety 6 com, Oh, Ranger! ParkFinder™ and Oh, Ranger!® guides —a collection of visitor guides for public Preservation 10 lands all across America­—and operates Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi in parks and public lands. American Park Network is an official partner of the National Alagnak Wild River 12 Forest Foundation, National Parks Conservation Association, National Fish and Wildlife Aleutian World War II 13 Foundation, American Hiking Society and the Student Conservation Association. Bering Land Bridge 14 Publisher & Editor-in-Chief MARK J. SAFERSTEIN Denali 15 Associate Publisher & Executive Editor Joel S. Saferstein Gates of the Arctic 23 Group Sales & Partnerships Director Glacier Bay 24 Alex Frenkel EDITORIAL / PRODUCTION Centerfold Map Editors: Monette A. Bailey, Daniel Johnson, Jacqueline Kehoe, Amanda McConnon, Iñupiat Heritage Center 29 Julie McCool, Danielle Taylor, Wendy Willis Proofreader: Scott Tabor Production Manager: Mario Arce Katmai 30 Graphic Designers: Karla Aldana, Dennisse Cruz, Tatiana Hurtado, Yamileth Recinos Kenai Fjords 32 AD DIGITAL Technology Manager: Scott Falconer Klondike Gold Rush 35

ADVERTISING SALES & MARKETING Lake Clark 36 (212) 581-3380 [email protected] Sitka 37 Business Development: Randy Burton, Mary Pat Kaleth, Pat Keane, Craig King, Kristi Rummel Feel-Good Savings. Operations Manager: Matthew Price Western Arctic 38 American Park Network 41 East 11th Street, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10003 Wrangell-St. Elias 39

Heed the call of adventure with great insurance coverage. @OhRanger Yukon-Charley Rivers 40 15 minutes could save you 15% or more on RV insurance. ©2019 APN MEDIA, LLC · All Rights Reserved Nature & Wildlife 41 Oh, Ranger! and American Park Network are registered trademarks of APN Media, LLC. Photography 46

Just for Kids 48

The publisher of this guide and the advertisers herein are not geico.com | 1-877-434-2678 | Local Office affiliated with, or endorsed by, the National Park Service. Cover: Grizzly bear in Denali National Park (iStock) FOR MORE INFORMATION Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states, in all GEICO companies, or Distribution requests in all situations. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, DC [email protected] 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2019 GEICO Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi™ installation/sponsorship 3 [email protected] WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WHAT’S NEW! WE’RE ALL CONNECTED

As a young man, John Muir, the naturalist known as, “Father of the National Parks,” Mark, Joel & Alex – connecting in parks! had an accident that left him temporarily blinded. It changed his life forever. When he science. I often find inspiration in parks. In its regained his sight, he emerged into the light traditional form, yoga was about joining with ever-determined to pursue his dreams of the collective universe. So, too, is Muir’s quote, exploration. Fortunately for the world, Muir’s best illustrated by an example from Yellowstone. trials led him to help move Congress to set When wolves were reintroduced there after a aside Yosemite, one of his many contributions 70-year absence, the rampant elk population to our nation’s preservation movement. could no longer leisurely nibble on willows, graze When faced with adversity, we have but in open meadows or congregate by the rivers. In two choices. We can either rise above our a short period of time, the forests and meadows circumstance or succumb to our demons of began to regenerate. Song birds appeared. doubt, fear, resentment and apathy. While Beavers flourished, building dams, which Muir was lucky to have his sight return, his created habitats for otters, muskrats and ducks. subsequent efforts drew strength from hope, Cooler waters, shaded by more trees, attracted compassion, kindness and love to rise up different species of amphibians and fish. Tree from personal adversity. roots stabilized the river banks, diminished AD Lately, it feels like we’re all dealing with erosion and even changed the geography of the too many hurdles. Every hour, “breaking” park! Indeed, pick out anything by itself and we news spews forth accounts of tragedy and quickly find that everything is connected. divisiveness. It was with this backdrop that I Now is the time to seek out connection— SOMEWHERE was preparing to teach a restorative yoga class, whether in a park, a yoga studio or anywhere to create a safe environment for my students you find inspiration—to find strength to rise up BETWEEN and provide an hour’s worth of peace and quiet and overcome the obstacles that face us all… to carry out into the world. What theme would capture their imagination and neatly underscore STUNNING our human need for connectedness? When teaching, I try to use examples that marry ancient tradition with contemporary and SURREAL

GET CONNECTED AT YOUR FAVORITE PARKS! VISITUTAH.COM Parks are about enjoying nature, but what if you want to share a great picture or are awaiting an important email? If you’re looking to add connectivity to your park, or if you already have Wi-Fi and would like help adding content or generating sponsor revenues, please let us know at [email protected].

4 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | WHO’S WHOPARK AT THE PARK REGULATIONS & SAFETY

Make the most of your visit by planning ing a trip plan with the rangers is always rec- ahead and becoming acquainted with some ommended. Rangers can provide advice on simple precautions designed to enhance your river crossings, Leave No Trace principles, safety and enjoyment. bear safety and weather considerations. For There are relatively few maintained trails in overnight or extended backcountry trips, Alaska’s parks and preserves; in many cases make sure you are self-sufficient. The back- access is by unpaved road, boat or aircraft. country sections of most Alaska parks have Visitors are cautioned that this is a truly vast no trails, signs, facilities, phones, roads or and remote area without the usual safe- other amenities that can assist hikers in trou- guards one expects in a more developed Na- ble. Planning, knowledge, common sense tional Park Service (NPS) area. In the event of and a realistic assessment of risks are key to a mishap, opportunities for rescue and evacu- a successful wilderness adventure. ation are slim and response time can be slow. Adequate preparation, experience, equip- LEAVE NO TRACE ment and knowledge of extreme wilder- Please adhere to Leave No Trace princi- ness travel and survival skills are necessities. ples to help keep parks pristine and untram- Equipment considerations should reflect the meled. Make sure to plan ahead and prepare, type of trip you are planning and must include travel and camp on durable surfaces, dis- emergency rations and gear for unexpected pose of waste properly, leave what you find, contingencies or delays due to weather. minimize campfire impacts, respect wildlife and act in a way that’s considerate of other AD PROPER CLOTHING visitors. For more information, speak with a Summers in most Alaska parks are mild, ranger or visit lnt.org. but variable. Fall comes early; in Denali, for instance, snow in August is not surprising FIREARMS and snow in September is almost a cer- People who can legally possess firearms tainty. Pack clothing that can be layered, like under applicable federal and Alaska state law lightweight long johns (tops and bottoms), can legally possess firearms at NPS sites in hiking pants with zip-off legs and a thin, long- Alaska. Federal law prohibits firearms in fed- sleeved shirt. Always pack rain gear, including eral facilities, including national park visitor a jacket, pants and hat. Also pack a knit cap centers. It is visitors’ responsibility to under- and sun hat – you may need both in the same stand and comply with all applicable firearms You can help protect day! It’s best to be prepared for any weather laws before entering NPS sites. Check with the places you love to hike. so you remain safe and comfortable for the individual sites regarding where firearms duration of your trip. may be carried. Join today and get a 20% discount on membership. Use this exclusive Oh, Ranger! code APN20 BACKCOUNTRY TRAVEL SHARE YOUR FAVORITE Check in with park rangers before heading PHOTOS WITH US! out into the backcountry for overnight trips. FOLLOW US! AmericanHiking.org/join In some parks, a permit is required, and leav-

6 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | PARK REGULATIONS & SAFETY

FLYING high to cross safely, it is better to wait than Small planes are a great way—and some- lose gear or risk injury. When boating, wear times the only way—to get into the interior personal flotation devices, carry a survival of large Alaska parks or view the vast land- kit, file a float plan and be prepared to spend scape. There are licensed air taxi operators more time in the backcountry than your ideal for each of the big parks in Alaska; if you plan calls for. are landing in the park, make sure you’re traveling with one of the operators licensed PETS to go to that site. If you plan to fly your own Pets are allowed in some areas of some DON’T plane, check with individual parks about parks, but must generally be on leashes. accessibility. Check with rangers or on park websites for park-specific rules. RIVER CROSSINGS Water in Alaska is cold, meaning river TAKE YOUR MOMENTS AND crossings can be dangerous. Get advice from SHARE WITH US TRASH rangers on how best to cross streams and riv- TELL US! ers. Travel in groups, and if water appears too NATURE WILDLIFE SAFETY

Help keep wildlife wild. Alaska is home to For more information, refer to the chart in the many wild animals that you are likely to en- “Nature & Wildlife” chapter. counter. Do not approach or follow wild- DON’T FEED THE ANIMALS! Park staff life—maintain a minimum distance of 300 have noted an increase in interactions between AD® yards from bears and 25 yards from all other humans and park wildlife. These interactions Aramark and Leave No Trace want to ensure animals. For raptor nests and den sites, it’s 100 seem to be rooted in animals receiving food yards. If your presence alters an animal’s be- when they come in close proximity to people. visitors are equipped with the best information havior, you are too close! Undoubtedly, humans assume they are do- MOOSE: Be cautious around moose. De- ing a kind deed by giving animals something and resources to enjoy our parks and leave spite their harmless appearance, these huge to eat. However, feeding wildlife, leaving food them better than we found them! animals can cause severe injuries to people. If unattended at campgrounds and rest stops, or you encounter an aggressive moose, run from not properly disposing of trash creates a new it immediately. This is actually just the opposite problem. Food rewards can result in animals of what to do in the presence of an aggressive losing their natural fear of people. This change Head to www.NationsVacation.com to bear. Moose require “personal space” and can in behavior may lead to property damage and become upset when they feel anyone is en- human injury. The animals involved can suf- learn more about this partnership and ways ® croaching upon their territory. fer negative health effects or overpopulation that you can Leave No Trace on your visit. BEARS: If you encounter a bear, do not run resulting from unnatural food sources, depen- or make abrupt moves. Bears are hunters and dence on a seasonably unreliable food source, instinctively chase anything that flees. It is rec- and greater susceptibility to predators and ve- ommended that hikers in bear country carry hicle collisions. and be prepared to use bear pepper spray. It is against park regulations to feed wildlife. Realize, though, that danger is never totally For the animals’ safety and yours, please let eliminated—so ongoing vigilance is crucial. wildlife stay wild!

8 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | Committed to educating visitors about the importance of enjoying the outdoors responsibly. WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK PRESERVATION

PRESERVATION Visitors can recycle aluminum, glass temperatures rise and coastal erosion in- and some plastics, and purchase reusable creases, park managers must create new bags, mugs and water bottles. Also, new strategies to combat this phenomenon. As you explore Alaska, the raw and ex- taminants—some from halfway around equipment and partnerships are making op- pansive beauty of the wilderness seems the world—find their way into the parks. erations more efficient and sustainable. It’s MIGRATORY BIRDS limitless. The reality, however, is that this Small but measurable amounts of pollu- working. When Denali celebrated its cen- More than half of all the breeding bird extraordinary landscape faces formidable tion arrive from power plants, metal smelt- tennial in 2017, more than 640,000 people species in Alaska’s parks are migratory. threats from within its borders and beyond. ers and other industrial sources in Europe visited the park. Yet, 24 percent less trash Birds leave for points south, including south- This section highlights some of the chal- and Asia. It results in a phenomenon called was sent to the landfill than the year before. ern Alaska, South America and the western lenges faced by Alaska’s National Parks “arctic haze.” Desert dust and agricultural United States. With so many birds spread and what is being done about them. contaminants reach the park by traveling CLIMATE CHANGE over such a vast area, it is difficult to fully across the Pacific Ocean. The parks’ clean One of the greatest challenges with even identify the complexity of forces that shape ROAD AND VEHICLE MANAGEMENT air may eventually depend more on inter- larger implications in Alaska’s parks than in their long-term survival. Maintaining a high-quality experience for national treaties and the environmental other national parks is climate change. The Alaska’s native birds are adapting to ur- the greatest number of visitors while pre- policies of other countries than on U.S. air melting of permafrost that underlies much banization, agriculture, industry and other serving park resources remains a primary quality laws. of Alaska is a primary concern. This leads human activities that encroach on their challenge for park managers. Limited ac- to increased erosion, landslides, sinking of habitat. Increased human activities may al- cess to Alaska’s parks has kept these frag- EXOTIC PLANTS the ground surface, and disruption and dam- ter birds’ habitats and habits. Scientists are ile regions pristine. Yet increased travel has The National Park Service defines ex- age to forests. Warmer winters and longer, currently assessing ways to determine the fueled the need for roads not only to and otic species as non-native species occur- more intense melting seasons increase the abundance and distribution of birds in the from the parks, but within them. In Denali ring in a given place as a result of human rate of glacial retreat in Alaska’s Glacier Bay park, so that they can create effective con- and Wrangell-St. Elias, studies continue action. Compared to other U.S. parks, the and Kenai Fjords national parks. As stream servation strategies. to help determine the impacts of traffic on Alaska National Park Service units are rel- park resources and the visitor experience. atively pristine. Most of the exotic plants in Alaska are confined to areas that have iStock DEVELOPMENT been recently or repeatedly disturbed by In recent years, areas around Alaskan humans. White sweet clover is one of parks have seen increased business and these species and has invaded naturally residential development and growth. Sum- open riparian areas of Alaska. Bird vetch, mer visitation in and near the park is an im- like white sweet clover, invades stands of portant part of the Alaskan economy. Park native shrubs and tree saplings, climbing managers and the NPS have created sev- over native plants. Alaska’s extreme cli- eral strategies to accommodate more visi- mate and isolated location have protected tors and help preserve the park’s incredible its parks from most exotic species. Yet resources. They include implementing a in spite of these protective factors, the bus system for visitors and managing back- threat from exotic plants is increasing. country use and the use of ATVs, snowmo- biles, boats and other vehicles. REDUCING TRASH Created in 2016, the National Parks Zero- AIR QUALITY Landfill Initiative seeks better ways to man- The air quality throughout Alaska’s parks age the 100 million pounds of trash produced is exceptionally clean, allowing spectacu- annually by the parks’ nearly 331 million visi- lar views throughout. Yet airborne con- tors. Denali National Park is a pilot site. The Bar-tailed Godwit, a migratory bird that calls Alaska home, nests on tundra and on the shore.

10 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 11 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK ALEUTIAN WORLD WORLDWORLD WAR WAR WAR II II II ALAGNAK WILD RIVER NATIONAL HISTORIC HISTORIC AREA AREA

equipped with rain gear, including water- The Aleutian World War II National His- ism had also played a role in their treat- iStock proof footwear and clothing that retains toric Area is located on the site of Fort ment. In 1988, a law was signed calling warmth when wet, such as wool or syn- Schwatka, a U.S. Army base in the Aleu- for financial compensation and an apol- thetics. An insect-proof head net is also a tian Island Chain. The fort was built to ogy from Congress and the president on must. Primitive camping is available. Per- protect Dutch Harbor (a crucial back door behalf of the American people. mits are recommended for users and are to the U.S.) during World War II. Today available at no charge at the King Salmon the area tells the story of the Aleut peo- PLAN YOUR VISIT Visitor Center. For more information, call ple and the role of Aleutian Islands in the Today, the area reflects a dramatic—if (907) 246-3305 or visit nps.gov/alag. defense of the U.S. during World War II. solemn—slice of history. Visitors can ex- plore the remaining structures and ruins, A WORLD-CLASS FISHERY THE ALEUT PEOPLE and sense the scope of the war effort One of the Alagnak River’s most notewor- The Unangan, or Aleut, were plentiful mounted in the Aleutians to protect the thy features is its salmon population. The in their native corner of Alaska. Yet when U.S. from Japanese invasion. river is brimming with species such as king, Russian fur traders arrived in the 1750s, The park is located on Amaknak Island, silver, chum and sockeye. The waters of the their numbers plummeted due to warfare, 800 miles west of Anchorage, the near- Alagnak support a significant sockeye salmon epidemics, starvation and exploitation. est urban center. It can be reached by air spawning habitat and the largest sockeye After the U.S. purchased Alaska in from Anchorage, and is open year-round. salmon fishery in the world. Each summer, 1867, the Aleut were classified as “In- Visitors may access the area at any time, the Pacific salmon return to their birthplace in dians” and made wards of the govern- but overnight camping is not permit- The Alagnak River is brimming with salmon. the Alagnak River to spawn and die. ment. Their hardships lasted for over 200 ted. Visitor center hours are 1 to 6 p.m., Along with salmon, rainbow trout, char, years, culminating in forced evacuation Wednesday through Saturday in summer. The Alagnak Wild River, located in the northern pike, Aleutian sculpin, Alaska from their homeland during World War II. Call (907) 581-9944 for more information. foothills of the beautiful Aleutian Range, blackfish, grayling and others complete On June 7, 1942, the Japanese in- provides unparalleled opportunities to ex- Alagnak’s bounty and help provide some vaded Attu Island, changing forever the iStock perience the wilderness of the Alaska Pen- of the most attractive sportfishing in the lives of the 42 villagers taken as pris- insula. Its designation as a “wild” river in world. Small wonder this river has become oners of war and the Aleut people as the National Wild and Scenic River System the most popular fishing location in all of a whole. In response, U.S. authorities allows the upper 56 miles of the Alagnak to southwest Alaska. Yet this area is still vul- evacuated 881 Aleuts from nine villages. be preserved in a healthy, free-flowing con- nerable to the hazards of overfishing. For They were herded onto cramped ships dition. The waterway and its environs are this reason, the Alaska Department of Fish and transported to crowded “duration inaccessible by road and the shorelines and and Game takes steps to ensure that pres- villages” without plumbing or electricity. water remain unspoiled. ent regulations maintain the long-term Despite their poor treatment at the stability of the Alagnak sport fishery. Sub- hands of the U.S. government, the Aleut VISITOR SERVICES sistence fishing is permitted to local rural remained fiercely patriotic. Twenty-five Charter flights to the Alagnak Wild River residents only. joined the armed forces, three took part are available from Anchorage and King in the U.S. invasion of Attu Island and all Salmon; there is also access via power- SHARE YOUR FAVORITE were awarded Bronze Stars. After the boat from any of the villages along the PHOTOS WITH US! war, the Aleut began the long battle for river. Because of the cool weather and wet restitution. The evacuation had taken FOLLOW US! Begin your trip to Aleutian World War II climate, visitors to the park should come place for humanitarian reasons, but rac- National Historic Area at the visitor center.

12 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 13 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK BERING LANDLAND BRIDGE BRIDGE DENALI NATIONAL NATIONAL PRESERVE PARK & PRESERVE

The Bering Land Bridge National that first brought humans from Asia to Throughout its dynamic history, the missing by only 154 feet. The mountaineering Preserve is an unusually remote park, the Americas. The preserve’s western wilderness that is now Denali National community took notice. located on the Seward Peninsula in north- boundary lies 42 miles from the Bering Park and Preserve has always been an west Alaska. The preserve is a remnant of Strait, the fishing boundary between the awe-inspiring place to behold. Prehistoric CLIMBING DENALI the land bridge that connected Asia with United States and Russia. Bering Land Athabaskans, adventurous mountaineers, In 1913, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, North America more than 13,000 years Bridge was designated a national monu- hardscrabble miners and modern-day sight- Hudson Stuck and Robert Tatum became the ago. The majority of this land bridge, once ment in 1978 and a national preserve seers have all visited this land. first to scale Denali after several others at- perhaps a thousand miles wide, now lies two years later. tempted and failed. The ascent took 53 days beneath the waters of the Chukchi and ALASKA IN THE ICE AGE and required the group to carve a three-mile Bering seas. THINGS TO DO Imagine the scene roughly 25,000 years staircase into a sheet of ice. Although the ad- During the glacial epoch, this byway Visitors can enjoy camping, hiking and ago, during the height of the Wiscon- venturous spirit drew mountaineers, it was was part of a migration path for people, backpacking in the summer months. Win- sin Ice Age, as sheets of ice crept as far the discovery of gold in 1903 that brought animals and plants whenever ocean lev- ter offers the opportunity to snowmobile, south as Rhode Island and central Illinois. throngs of settlers to the region. els fell enough to expose it. Archeolo- dogsled and cross-country ski. You can Yet the Alaskan interior was free of ice, gists agree that the Bering Land Bridge, spot remains of the gold rush era and ex- covered instead by steppe tundra vege- NATIONAL PARK STATUS also called Beringia, was the access road plore evidence of ancient Eskimo life. The tation and inhabited by woolly mammoths Charles Sheldon, a naturalist and hunter, preserve and surrounding areas—including and other megafauna. The environment spent the 1907-08 winter in a cabin on the native villages—give visitors the chance proved suitable for North America’s first Toklat and fell in love with the land and its iStock to observe and learn about traditional sub- human residents, who likely crossed into bounty of wildlife. When Sheldon left that sistence lifestyles and historic reindeer this continent on the Bering Land Bridge spring, he was determined to save the herding. Consider flying to Serpentine Hot from Siberia over 15,000 years ago. Ar- area. Nine years later, his dream came true Springs and spending a few nights in the cheological evidence shows that people on February 26, 1917. President Woodrow bunkhouse while you hike among the huge have been living in Denali for at least Wilson Wilson signed legislation creating granite tors (hilly rocks or peaks) that en- 13,000 years and that nomadic bands of Mount McKinley National Park. In an effort circle the springs. Athabaskans hunted in the lowland hills to provide additional wildlife protection and The preserve is vast and access is lim- of Denali’s northern reaches from spring conservation, park boundaries were ex- ited. There are no roads that lead directly through fall, probably in search of caribou, tended in 1922, 1932 and 1980. into it, and summer access is usually by sheep and moose. The 1980 Alaska National Interest Lands bush planes and small boats. Winter ac- Conservation Act expanded the park by cess is mostly by snow machine, dog EUROPEANS ARRIVE four million acres. The law also provided sled or small planes on skis. Captain George Vancouver was the first the critical range necessary to support The Bering Land Bridge Visitor Center European visitor to document seeing the populations of moose, wolf and caribou is located in the Sitnasuak Building in mountain now known as Denali. In 1794, as part of an integral ecosystem and to Nome. Hours are 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Vancouver sailed into upper Cook Inlet and include the entire McKinley massif in the Monday through Friday, closed on fed- noted, “distant, stupendous mountains cov- park’s boundaries. The newly expanded eral holidays. ered with snow and apparently detached six million-acre park was renamed Denali For more information, contact: Bering from one another.” National Park and Preserve. The park con- Land Bridge National Preserve, P.O. Box Near the turn of the century, American to- tains internationally significant resources 220, Nome, AK 99762; (907) 443-2522; pographer Robert Muldrow calculated Dena- and has been designated an International The Alaska polar bear population is estimated to be between 4,000 and 7,000 individuals. nps.gov/bela. li’s height using the primitive tools of his time, Biosphere Reserve by the United Nations.

14 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 15 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK DENALI NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE THINGS TO DO DENALI NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE THINGS TO DO HUNTING For more information, visit the kennels blog Sport hunting is allowed in the preserve at nps.gov/dena or contact the visitor cen- during the appropriate hunting season, and ter at (907) 683-9532. While most of the action takes place on bulletin boards throughout the park. subsistence hunting (for local rural residents) during the summer, there are always Programs are presented at the Savage is allowed in the new park additions. Hunting SLED DOG DEMONSTRATION lots of activities and programs to take River, Wonder Lake, Teklanika River and is prohibited in the “old park,” which is the Half-hour programs offer an opportu- advantage of at Denali National Park and Riley Creek campgrounds. area that most people visit. Animals subject nity to visit Denali’s Alaskan huskies at the Preserve. Road work between the park to sport hunting on preserve lands include park’s kennels. Free buses to the kennels entrance (Mile 0) and Park Headquarters CAMPING moose, Dall sheep, black and grizzly bears, leave the Denali Visitor Center approxi- (Mile 3.4) on the Denali Park Road will last There are six campgrounds located in wolves, wolverine, coyote, red fox and lynx. mately 40 minutes before each demonstra- the summer season, and will occur 8 p.m. the park. Visitors may camp at any one For more information, call (907) 683-2294. tion. Demonstrations run daily from June 1 to 8 a.m. for a total of 14 days per summer sea- to September 1, at 10 a.m., 2 p.m. and 4 son. Riley Creek Campground, located MOUNTAINEERING p.m. They are offered on a smaller scale in AIR TOURS at the entrance to the park, is the only Adventurers wishing to climb Denali May and after September 1. When it comes to getting an “overview” campground open year-round. Denali’s and Mount Foraker are encouraged to of Denali National Park, many visitors de- campgrounds all have different access, check out the extensive logistical and OTHER WINTER ACTIVITIES scribe scenic air tours as “a once in a life- fees and facilities. For more details, call safety information on the park’s website Visitors can also ski, snowshoe and time” experience, a chance to glimpse (907) 683-2294 or visit nps.gov/dena. To at nps.gov/dena. Climbers planning to snowmobile in the park, though the latter everything the park has to offer from a reserve a campsite, call (866) 761-6629 or scale either mountain must register with is only permissible in the 1980 additions breathtaking vantage point. For more infor- visit reservedenali.com. the park and pay a special-use fee of to the park and under select snow condi- mation, inquire at the Denali Visitor Center $370 per climber ($270 for those 24 and tions. Call (907) 683-9532 to make sure or visit nps.gov/dena. FISHING younger). There also is a 60-day pre-reg- this activity is permitted on any given day. While many streams or lakes in istration regulation—this allows mountain- BICYCLING Denali National Park and Preserve are not eering rangers to have direct contact with VISITOR CENTERS Since visitors are allowed to bike all 92 prime sport fishing areas, there are spots climbers before they arrive in Talkeetna. The Denali Visitor Center is open daily miles of the park’s roads, cycling is a won- to cast a line throughout the park. In the You can request PDF copy versions of from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. from mid-May until derful way to get around the area. With Kantishna area, for instance, Moose Creek the older booklet in German, Japanese, mid-September. The center, located near the exception of the designated bike trail and Wonder Lake offer opportunities for Korean, Polish and Russian, though key the train station, features exhibits on the between Nenana River and the Denali arctic grayling and lake trout fishing. revisions will be missing and it’s best to history and resources of Denali. Visitor Center, biking on trails is prohibited. use translation software. Climbers should The Denali Bus Depot is located closer to Camper buses and some Eielson buses HIKING have a solid understanding of potentially the park road entrance. Visitors can purchase can carry a maximum of two bikes, so a There are a number of short, estab- serious medical problems and aware- or pick up shuttle bus or tour tickets and reservation is recommended. There are no lished trails at the entrance of the park ness of the extreme mental and physical campground permits. There is a camper store repair stations, so riders must tackle their and at Polychrome Overlook, Eielson Visi- stresses associated with high-altitude and coffee shop. Backpackers and other over- mechanical problems. Also, make sure tor Center and Wonder Lake—as well as mountaineering. Contact the Talkeetna night backcountry users can pick up permits to carry water and a purification device to many backcountry options. A great way Ranger Station at (907) 733-2231. at the Backcountry Information Center, in treat water from streams and rivers. to explore is by walking the Savage River the visitor center. Open May 20 to mid-Sep- Loop Trail, where you can witness the MUSHING tember, 5 a.m. to 7 p.m. CAMPGROUND PROGRAMS effects of glaciation and search the rocky If you have a sled dog team, Denali is the Learn about anything from grizzlies to slopes for wildlife. perfect playground! The NPS maintains a WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE glaciers during informal 30- to 45-min- The park also offers short guided working kennel and rangers continue the DENALI EXPERIENCE? ute campground programs. The top- hikes. Check at the Denali Visitor Center tradition of dog team patrols that began TELL US! ics and presentation times are listed for schedules. with the park’s first rangers in the 1920s.

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WALKING AND HIKING WALKING & HIKING

Round-Trip Difficulty plore the heart of Denali. The hikes begin Trail Distance Elevation iStock on June 8 each year and are limited to Trailhead Description Time Gain 11 people. Eielson Visitor Center Explore the tundra on one of the trails in the 0.75 mile very easy The locations of Discovery Hikes change Loop vicinity of Eielson Visitor Center. Trails vary 20 minutes level in length and difficulty. each day, and schedules are posted weekly Eielson Visitor Center at the Denali Visitor Center. The Discovery Horseshoe Lake This jewel of a lake lies in an oxbow of the 3 miles easy to Hike bus leaves and returns from the Wilder- Denali Visitor Center Nenana River and provides spectacular 1.5 hours moderate ness Access Center. The bus departure time views and signs of wildlife. fairly level is 8 a.m. sharp; don’t be late! Parks Highway This trail leads through spruce forests to 3.2 miles easy Plan on hiking for three to five hours. De- Bike Path a multiuse trail, connecting to the lodging 2 hours level outside the park. pending on hike location, your bus ride can be by road to Riley Creek anywhere from one to four hours. The hikes Denali promises breathtaking walking and are free. You must sign up one to two days McKinley Bar Trail Follow this trail through tundra and spruce 4.5 miles moderate hiking across its more than 6 million acres. road to Wonder Lake forests, heading south toward the McKinley 3 hours 100 feet in advance for Discovery Hikes at the visitor River for a beautiful view of the mountains. Campground For the most part, Denali National Park center, and purchase your bus ticket at the and Preserve is unspoiled wilderness—un- Wilderness Access Center. Mount Healy Over- This climb offers spectacular views of the 4.5 miles strenuous encumbered by trails or other backcountry Be prepared to encounter uneven ter- look Trail park entrance area, the Nenana River valley 3-4 hours 1,700 ft and various alpine ridges. aids. The park’s philosophy rests on the rain, small stream crossings, close en- Taiga Trail, 0.3 mile

concept that unstructured wandering not counters with dense vegetation and Rock Creek Trail Enjoy this hike through beautiful stands of 4.8 miles fairly strenu- only engenders a more complete experi- unpredictable weather. Make sure to visitor center to Taiga spruce and birch on your way to the kennels 4 hours ous and a sled dog demonstration. ence for visitors, but has far less environ- bring all the items on the recommended Trail 400 feet mental impact than would be created by gear list, including sturdy hiking boots, Savage Cabin Inter- This short loop has trailside interpretive 0.25 mile easy a network of established trails. You will clothes suitable for wet and windy pretative Trail information and leads past a historic cabin. 20 minutes level find some short trails that act as handy weather, extra socks, food, at least one Park Road, mile 13 access routes in the park’s entrance area, liter of water per person, insect repellent, Triple Lakes Trail Do all or part of this trail, which connects 19 miles fairly strenu- near Polychrome Overlook, Eielson Visitor sunscreen and a hat. Rangers will turn Denali Visitor Ctr. the visitor center with Triple Lakes (a series 8 hours ous Center and Wonder Lake. If you seek a bit away all unprepared hikers. of three lakes) to the south. 1,000 ft more adventure, there are plenty of op- For more information on walking and Savage River Loop The Savage River Canyon offers scenery 2 miles easy and possible wildlife sightings. Cross the tions. In Denali you can explore expanses hiking in Denali, please contact the park at Park Road, mile 15 1-2 hours 30 feet bridge to return on the other river bank. of tundra, weave through taiga forests, (907) 683-9532. Taiga Trail On this subarctic forest trail you’ll spot 1.8 miles easy to discover the banks of gurgling braided riv- Denali Visitor Center flowers in early summer and berries later 2 hours moderate ers, saunter over the tops of glaciers or on; be alert for moose, too! 75 feet scramble to the top of snow-capped moun- OUR READER McKinley Station Learn about the early settlements of the 3.2 miles moderate tains. Visitors are allowed to hike almost Trail - area from trailside exhibits along this path 2 hours 100 feet that leads to Hines Creek. anywhere in the park! FEEDBACK Denali Visitor Center “We loved the ranger-led sled DISCOVERY HIKES dog program. It made us want Meadow View Trail This trail offers spectacular views of the 0.6 mile moderate Ranger-led Discovery Hikes, offered to come back to mush this Rock Creek Trail or meadow below and the mountains to the 1.5 hours level south. Watch for signs of wildlife! daily during summer, are a great way for winter”- Stacey B. Roadside Trail adventurous, well-prepared visitors to ex-

18 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 19 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK DENALI NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE DENALI DENALI NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE DENALI peak has increased substantially in the last erable investment of time on the part of 30 years. The south summit is the highest climbers, their success rate hovers in the point on Denali and, therefore, becomes 50 percent range. While clouds often veil this magnificent American plate) continually compress and the goal for many mountaineers. The most peak, visitors can rest assured it is always fold land surfaces in Alaska. These tectonic popular route to the south summit is the For answers to all your questions, up there! Denali is the highest mountain on forces are what push Denali—as well as West Buttress. Expeditions are lengthy, go to OhRanger.com the North American continent, reaching a other mountains in the Alaska Range—up averaging 17 days. Despite this consid- towering 20,310 feet. Measured from the higher. Although it is surrounded by many 2,000-foot lowlands near Wonder Lake to its glacier-clad mountains of similar grandeur, summit, it might even be called the tallest in Denali is primarily made of granite, an ex- CLIMBING DENALI the world. Its vertical relief of 18,000 feet is tremely weather-resistant rock. Its neigh- Scaling the heights of Denali—20,310 feet

even greater than that of Mount Everest. bors, however, are composed of sedimentary iStock tall, and the highest point in North America— rocks such as shale, limestone and sand- is a major trophy in the world of mountain THE NAME stone, which are much less durable. As De- climbing. Although climbers as young as 11 Denali—the High One—is the name the nali is pushed up, it remains above others in and as old as 76 have made the trip to the Athabascan people originally gave the mas- the area like a resistant sentinel, while nearby summit, Denali climbing is best left for the sive peak. mountains erode in the continual onslaught strong and experienced climber. Without It was initially called Mount McKinley—the of freezing, thawing and glacial scouring. At careful planning and attention to the climb, brainchild of a gold prospector who took his 56 million years old, Denali rock is also much getting to the summit can lead to accidents inspiration from Republican presidential can- younger than most of its sedimentary neigh- and risks including frostbite, dehydration, fa- didate William McKinley of Ohio. The pros- bors, which vary in age from 100 million to tigue and hypoxia. pector, William Dickey, had just returned to more than 400 million years old. In 1995, American Merrick Johnston be- town from his claim near the mountain and came the youngest female to reach the top of Denali at 12 years old. The oldest husband- was filled with enthusiasm for the politician CLIMBING and-wife team to reach the summit com- McKinley and the 20,310-foot mountain. His Denali is significant to the worldwide pleted the feat in 1992, when they were ages choice of name caught on in much of the mountaineering community. Numerous 64 and 62, respectively. The next year, a blind United States, but, ironically, never in Alaska. peaks in the Alaskan Range are climbed person successfully made the climb! About Denali is the official name in Alaska, and each each year, but none has the appeal and 1,200 people per year attempt to reach the year, congressional representatives from drawing power of this towering peak. Com- heights of Denali, a journey that can take as Ohio filed legislation to prevent the name pared to other high profile mountains, De- long as one month. The average success rate from being changed to Denali. On August 30, nali is logistically easy to access, and has is 52 percent. Of course, there are always Approximately 1,200 people attempt to summit Denali every year. 2015, however, Interior Secretary Sally Jewell some routes which have a lower degree unforeseen challenges: frostbite or falling off one of the trail’s narrow ridges. More than a officially renamed the mountain Denali. of technical difficulty. This is deceptive, as attempt. Rescues are undertaken by the Na- setback, the loss of a hand or foot to frost- The park was known as Mount McKinley climbing the mountain on any route has sig- tional Park Service, with occasional support bite is a life-changing event. A fall can also National Park after its creation in 1917, but the nificant challenges, including severe tem- from the military, which generally helps at bring death. Climbing Denali is very serious name was changed to Denali National Park peratures, extreme winds and other harsh lower elevations or for medical evacuations. business. The odds of making it up and back and Preserve in 1980. environmental conditions. The number If you are interested in making the safely may be increased by hiring a guide, climb, the Talkeetna Ranger Station is a of mountaineers attempting to scale the as more than 30 percent of all climbers do. good source for information, books, films, GEOLOGY The cost for a guide runs around $2,500. If photos and equipment. Please call Denali may be high, but it is actually still you count other expenses such as gear, food WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE (907) 733-2231 for more information, or growing at a rate of about one millimeter per and the $365 climbing fee, one can expect DENALI EXPERIENCE? download the mountaineering booklet from year! Active plate tectonics (the Pacific plate to spend between $4,000 and $5,000 on an TELL US! the park website at nps.gov/dena. is plunging beneath Alaska, or the North

20 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 21 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK GATESDENALI NATIONALOF THE ARCTIC PARK & PRESERVE GATES OF THE ARCTIC NATIONALLODGING PARK & DINING & PRESERVE NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE

The only lodging in the park is in Most lodging and dining options are Gates of the Arctic National Park and PLAN YOUR VISIT Kantishna, 90 miles from the entrance. These just outside the park along the Parks Preserve in Alaska’s Brooks Range pre- There are no roads in the park, although privately run facilities are open from early Highway and in local communities. Op- serves vast untouched natural beauty with the Dalton Highway comes within about June through mid-September. tions include Denali Park Resorts: exceptional scientific value. It includes gla- five miles of the park’s eastern boundary. The Morino Grill food court, across from (800) 276-7234, denaliparkresorts.com; ciated valleys, rugged mountains, forest, Other than hiking in from the Dalton High- the Denali Visitor Center, serves hot meals and Princess Lodges: (800) 426-0500, arctic tundra and wild rivers; and is home way, access is generally by air. Air taxis and grab-and-go items. The Wilderness Ac- princesslodges.com. For more infor- to caribou, Dall sheep, wolves and bears. from Fairbanks serve Anaktuvuk Pass, Bet- cess Center houses a coffee shop that sells mation, contact the Denali Cham- Gates of the Arctic encompasses a na- tles and Coldfoot. Charter flights may also to-go items. For backcountry supplies, stop ber of Commerce: P.O. Box 437, tional park, national preserve, wilderness, be arranged. Bush charters are available by the Riley Creek Mercantile, a full-service Healy, AK 99743; (907) 683-4636; six wild rivers, two national natural land- from Bettles and Coldfoot. camper convenience store. denalichamber.com. marks and the Noatak Biosphere Reserve. Gates of the Arctic is open year-round, but call each office to confirm hours. Bettles AN UNCHANGING WILDERNESS Ranger Station/Visitor Center is open DENALI LODGING & DINING For many centuries the unmapped Cen- daily in the summer from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., tral Brooks Range had been the homeland and weekdays from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. the of Athapaskan and Inupiat people. These rest of the year, though it may be unstaffed native inhabitants lived off the land wisely, mid-October until mid-February. Phone: preserving the integrity of their surround- (907) 692-5494. The Arctic Interagency ings for the future. Visitor Center in Coldfoot is open daily from Today the park and preserve covers about mid-May through mid-September. Phone: 1 2 3 4 8.2 million acres. About 5,000 to 10,000 (907) 678-5209. The Anaktuvuk Pass 1 Denali Backcountry Lodge Stay in one 3 Skyline Lodge This small, solar-powered recreational visitors make their way into Ranger Station is open to the public during of 42 cedar cabins with private baths and lodge accommodates up to 10 guests in Gates of the Arctic each year. Typically, they the summer, hours will vary depending on the individual climate control. At the nearby five comfortable rooms. (907) 644-8222 • float down rivers, make a base camp on re- schedule of the NPS ranger based there. Call lodge you’ll find hearty food and fun ac- katair.com Dining: A continental, self-serve mote lakes or backpack through countless (907) 661-3520. For more information visit tivities. (800) 808-8068 • (907) 376-1992 breakfast is included in the cost of your stay. passes and drainages. nps.gov/gaar, or call the Fairbanks • denalilodge.com Dining: Hot breakfast Dinner is served family-style. Lunch is self- Alaska Public Lands Information Center at is served buffet-style. Evening dinners are service either to pack for the day or eat at STAYING SAFE (907) 459-3730 when the seasonal visitor served family-style in the lodge.BLD: the lodge. BLD Photo: Kantishna Air Taxi. Since the park is remote, with no facili- center operations are closed. DBL. 4 Kantishna Roadhouse These cozy ties, visitors must be well-prepared and self- 2 Camp Denali and North Face Lodge This cabins have private bathrooms, showers sufficient. Equipment, supplies and even facility offers multiday packages in cabins or and climate controls. The main building emergency services may not be available. iStock rooms at the lodge. Both offer outdoor ac- offers an activities desk, Alaskan library, Wilderness skills are essential and tivities. (907) 683-2290 • campdenali.com dining room and saloon. (800) 942-7420 • plotting a viable route is an important part Dining: Breakfast is buffet-style or á la carte. kantishnaroadhouse.com • Dining: Meals of your adventure. Be prepared for emer- Pack your lunch using sandwich fixings and are prepared with fresh vegetables and gencies, as well as for radical changes in snacks, and enjoy a freshly made dinner each house-made breads. Bagged lunches are the weather. It can snow any time of the evening. BLD Photo: Pete Klosterman. available. BLDPhoto: Kantishna Roadhouse. year. Always carry enough food for extra days, because inclement weather can de- KEY BBreakfast LLunch DDinner Open during winter ✆ Reservations required. Gates of the Arctic National Park was created to lay air service. ensure the arctic environment’s integrity

22 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 23 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK GLACIER BAY NATIONAL GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE PARK & PRESERVE PLAN YOUR VISIT

Today’s visitors to Glacier Bay National in canoes from what is now Point Carolus to Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve formation, call (907) 697-4000 or log on to Park and Preserve sail along shorelines meet the boat and offer to trade. Tlingit oral is open year-round (though services in visitglacierbay.com. and among islands that were completely history is corroborated by modern science the winter are extremely limited) and covered by ice 200 years ago. This unique and shows that lower Glacier Bay was hab- the visitor center is open from late May CONTACT INFORMATION living laboratory provides opportunities to itable for many centuries up until about 300 through early September. For more information, contact Glacier observe the ebb and flow of glaciers and years ago, when a final glacial surge forced Visitors often arrive by cruise ship, Bay National Park and Preserve, 1 Park study life as it returns in the wake of retreat- the human habitants to flee. and can arrive year-round by small char- Rd., P.O. Box 140, Gustavus, AK 99826; ing ice. Amid this majestic scenery, Glacier ter plane. Frequent flights are available visit nps.gov/glba; or call general informa- Bay also offers a connection to a powerful SCIENCE AND TOURISM from Juneau to Gustavus, where Alaska tion (907) 697-2230; 24-hour emergency and wild landscape. In 1879, John Muir was the first in a line Airlines provides summer jet service. (907) 697-2651; camping and boating in- The park has snow-capped mountain of naturalists to visit the park, perform re- The Alaska Marine Highway provides formation (907) 697-2627; whitewater ranges, deep fjords, tidewater glaciers, search and bring this remarkable area to scheduled ferry service between Ju- rafting hotline (907) 784-3370; river raft- coastal beaches with protected coves, the world’s attention. Largely due to Muir’s neau and Gustavus. For more informa- ing, mountaineering and hunting informa- coastal and estuarine waters and freshwater enthusiastic writings, Glacier Bay became tion, please contact the Alaska Marine tion (907) 784-3295. lakes. The diverse land and seascape hosts a popular tourist attraction and the focus Highway System at (800) 642-0066. a variety of plant communities ranging from of scientific inquiries during the late 1880s Note: There are no facilities for RVs (camp- pioneer species in areas recently exposed by and 1890s. A massive earthquake in 1899 grounds, hookups, dump stations, etc.) in iStock receding glaciers to climax communities in halted much of the tourism, but scientific in- the area. older coastal and alpine regions. Marine and terest remained high. Ground transportation is available terrestrial wildlife also thrive in the maritime from Gustavus to Glacier Bay (10 miles). forest area. NATIONAL PARK STATUS Glacier Bay Lodge provides transfers for In 1916, William S. Cooper, a plant guests at their hotel or for the Glacier Bay HISTORY ecologist, convinced the Ecological Soci- Tour for free. The only road in the park When Captain George Vancouver ety of America to spearhead a campaign runs 10 miles between Bartlett Cove and steered his ship, the HMS Discovery, for its preservation of Glacier Bay. These Gustavus. Rental cars and taxi service through the waters of Icy Strait in 1794, he efforts succeeded, and in 1925 President are available in Gustavus. and his crew described what’s now known Calvin Coolidge signed a proclamation as Glacier Bay as a small, five-mile indent creating Glacier Bay National Monument. LODGING AND DINING in a humongous glacier that stretched off After World War II there was talk of el- Glacier Bay Lodge—the only lodge in to the horizon. However, by 1879, natural- evating Glacier Bay’s status to that of na- the park—is located about 10 miles from ist John Muir discov­ered that the ice had tional park. This goal was finally achieved Gustavus. The 48-room lodge features retreated more than 30 miles, forming an in 1980, when the park’s boundaries were spectacular views of the Fairweather actual bay. By 1916, the Grand Pacific Gla- extended northwest to the Alsek River and Mountain Range, overlooking Bartlett cier had retreated 60 miles to the head of Dry Bay. In 1992, the park became part of Cove. The NPS visitor center is located what is now Tarr Inlet. an international World Heritage Site. upstairs in the lodge and the NPS offers daily guided hikes around the property EARLY INHABITANTS during the summer. The lodge’s Fair- The members of the Discovery crew were weather Dining Room serves breakfast, not the first to see Glacier Bay. The ship’s GET THE APP! lunch and dinner. There is a camper store IT’S FREE! DOWNLOAD NOW Book a boat tour for incredible views of Glacier records mention natives who paddled out and gift shop in the lobby. For more in- Bay National Park’s sweeping landscapes.

24 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 25 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE SIGHTS TO SEE THINGS TO DO

WHALES seas with a thunderous sound that rever- If you are an outdoor enthusiast, you’ll find located about a quarter-mile from the main The sight of a whale surfacing is one of berates for miles. Most of the tidewater plenty to do in Glacier Bay National Park and dock in Bartlett Cove, accessible by trail the most exhilarating sights in Glacier Bay glaciers are 65 miles from the forests of Preserve—regardless of the season! Summer only. It has designated sites, a warming shel- National Park—an enduring symbol of the Bartlett Cove, and a boat trip to see this site visitors typically enjoy boating, camping, fish- ter, outhouses and bear-proof food caches. effort to preserve nature. Glacier Bay is sum- is a staple of any Glacier Bay park visit. ing, hiking, kayaking, mountaineering, ranger Campsites are available on a first come, first- mer feeding ground to humpback, Minke and programs, rafting and wildlife viewing. Since served basis. killer whales. Visitors are most likely to see ROARING RIVERS winter brings an arctic chill to the frosty Alaska All campers are required to have a free per- humpback whales along shorelines in the If you are looking for adventure, wildlife air, only the most experienced adventurers mit and attend a short orientation offered at lower part of the bay. These 40- to 50-foot and an unparalleled opportunity to see the tend to visit the park during the coldest season. the nearby visitor information station. Permits creatures migrate over 2,000 miles from their Alaskan landscape, consider embarking are mandatory in the summer in the Bartlett winter breeding grounds off Hawaii to feed on a rafting trip down one of the park’s BOATING AND BOAT TOURS Cove area and backcountry. For groups of 12 on small schooling fish like capelin and sand- rivers. Both the Alsek River and its major The park is most easily seen by boat. The or more, group camping is permitted in the lance. Minke whales also come to the bay tributary, the Tatshenshini River, are large- distance between Bartlett Cove and the tide- campground. A group limit of 12 exists for to feed, but are inconspicuous and difficult to volume, swift glacial rivers that course water glaciers is 46 miles. Most visitors see camping in all other areas of the park. Camp- spot. The presence of killer whales is unpre- through areas of great environmental diver- the bay from cruise ships; passengers do not ing outside of the campground is prohibited dictable, as they sporadically enter the bay to sity. Most rafting trips begin on the Tatsh- go ashore in Glacier Bay. Instead, National within one mile of Bartlett Cove. The park has hunt seals, sea lions and porpoises. enshini at Dalton Post. From there, it is 140 Park Service naturalists board the ships to no facilities for vehicle camping or RVs. river miles to the normal take-out at Dry share their knowledge about the park. TIDEWATER GLACIERS Bay, Alaska. Tour boats hold up to 150 passengers. Na- FISHING If you take a boat tour, look out for fall- For more information about rafting, tional Park Service naturalists also join these You must hold a valid Alaska State Fish- ing ice near tidewater glaciers! When whale watching, and cruises that pass tide- boats. Some boats also stop at Bartlett Cove ing License and follow the state regulations the snouts of calving glaciers crumble, water glaciers, contact park headquarters to allow passengers time ashore. The Glacier to fish in Glacier Bay National Park and Pre- they send tons of ice crashing into roiling at (907) 697-2230. Bay Day Tour is an eight-hour adventure up the west arm of Glacier Bay to the face of the

Grand Pacific and Margerie Glaciers. iStock iStock Charter boats offer a personalized trip for groups of about six passengers. Private boats (permit required) can also enter the bay, though must adhere to park rules and regulations. Sea kayaking is another popular means of traveling through park waters. For more information, visit nps.gov/glba or call (907) 697-2627. Dinner tours and whale- watching excursions are available just out- side park boundaries.

CAMPING The only established campground at Gla- Humpback whales breaching in their summer breeding grounds are a common site at Glacier Bay cier Bay National Park is located at Bartlett National Park Service naturalists also join tour National Park. The park’s waters are also home to Minke and killer whales. Cove. This primitive, walk-in campground is boats and cruise ships to lead interpretive tours.

26 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 27 GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE THINGS TO DO IÑUPIAT HERITAGEWHO’S WHO AT THE PARK serve. Stream fishing in the Bartlett River is country campers and kayakers at various within a short hike from Bartlett Cove. For locations in the bay. For more information CENTER more detailed information, call park headquar- about this service, as well as guided day ters at (907) 697-2230. and overnight kayak trips, call Glacier Bay The Iñupiat Heritage Center in Utq- in-Residence and Artists-in-Residence Lodge & Tours, (888) 229-8687 or visit iagvik, Alaska, was designated an af- programs. The heritage center is one of HIKING visitglacierbay.com. Kayak rentals and tours filiated area of New Bedford Whaling several partner organizations that partici- Bartlett Cove offers three hikes along are also available from Glacier Bay Sea Kay- National Historical Park in New Bedford, pate in relating the story of whaling in the the only developed trails in the park. The aks. Contact them at (907) 697-2257 or visit Massachusetts. Why the association United States. Though operating indepen- Forest Loop Trail is a one-mile loop that glacierbayseakayaks.com. with a site so far away? The designation dently, park partners collaborate on many begins at the Glacier Bay Lodge and winds was designed to ensure that the contribu- educational and interpretive programs. through a pond-studded spruce and hem- MOUNTAINEERING tions of Alaska natives to the history of lock forest. The four-mile Bartlett River Mountaineering can be very arduous in whaling would be recognized. More than PLAN YOUR VISIT Trail is round-trip, meandering along an the coastal mountains. A stormy weather 2,000 whaling voyages from New Bed- The Iñupiat Heritage Center is open intertidal lagoon and through a forest be- pattern—which includes more than 100 ford sailed into arctic waters during the year-round from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., fore emerging at the Bartlett River estuary. inches of precipitation a year—adds to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Many Monday through Friday. From May The Bartlett Lake Trail branches off from challenge. Most climbing in the park is ac- Alaska natives, particularly Iñupiat Eskimo through September, the center offers the Bartlett River Trail. This primitive path, cessible via charter boat or floatplane out people, participated in commercial whal- cultural programs and craft sales. Free about eight miles round-trip, winds through of Juneau, Gustavus or Yakutat. Fixed- ing, a vital form of livelihood in that day. In science and cultural meetings are hosted temperate rainforest. wing aircraft landings are allowed; helicop- addition to working on ships, the Iñupiat monthly. Topics include arctic science, Thick vegetation and steep terrain make ter landings and airdrops are prohibited. people hunted for food for the whalers, Iñupiat issues and whaling. backcountry hiking difficult to navigate.Topo- Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve provided warm fur clothing and sheltered Since it is located on the Arctic Ocean, graphic maps and other information are avail- does not maintain a rescue team with high- many crews that were shipwrecked on Utqiagvik is cool to cold all year. Summer able from Alaska Geographic, akgeo.org, altitude rescue capabilities, so climbing the Alaska coast. can bring fog, wind and rain; tempera- or at the park’s visitor information station at parties must plan and arrange for their own The Iñupiat Heritage Center houses ex- tures range from highs around 70°F to Bartlett Cove. backup. The NPS office in Yakutat should hibits and artifact collections, along with lows in the 30s. Winter temperatures are be made aware of the backup plans prior to a library, gift shop, and traditional room normally below 0°F, and often drop be- HUNTING the trip. For more information, contact the where people are able to demonstrate and low -30°F. Wind often exacerbates these Sport hunting is allowed only in the na- Yakutat District Ranger at (907) 784-3295. teach time-honored crafts through Elders- cold temperatures. Bring raincoats and tional preserve. Two hunting guide com- sweaters or light jackets in the summer

panies are authorized to provide guided RAFTING NPS and warm boots, gloves and heavy par- sport hunting in specific areas of the pre- There are numerous rafting opportunities kas with hoods in the winter. serve. For more information about hunt- in the park. The Alsek River and its major Utqiagvik is reached by air from Anchor- ing, visit nps.gov/glba. tributary, the Tatshenshini River, are both age and Fairbanks; a major airline sched- large, swift glacial rivers that offer the trip ules several daily flights. Rental vehicles KAYAKING of a lifetime. Most rafting trips begin on the are sometimes available in Utqiagvik; in- Sea kayaking is one of the best ways to Tatshenshini at Dalton Post, the last road quire at hotels. Taxis are available in town. explore the marine wilderness of Glacier accessible off the Haines Highway in Yu- Tours are available through Tundra Tours. Bay National Park and Preserve. All kayak- kon Territory, Canada. From there it is 140 Contact the Iñupiat Heritage Center ers intending to camp are required to at- river miles to the normal take-out at Dry at P.O. Box 69, Utqiagvik, AK 99723; or tend an orientation, held daily upon request Bay, Alaska. For a list of commercial rafting write to the National Park Service/INUP at the Bartlett Cove Visitor Information Sta- operators authorized to operate in the park, at 240 West 5th Ave., Anchorage, AK, tion located near the dock. A camper drop visit nps.gov/glba. A permit is required for The Iñupiat Heritage Center helps tell the story 99501. For visitor information, please call off and pick up service transports back- private trips and there is waiting list. of commercial whaling in the United States. (907) 852-0422 or visit nps.gov/inup.

28 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 29 WHO’S WHOKATMAI AT THE PARK NATIONAL KATMAI NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE more inland. Browns, in fact, are bigger PARK & PRESERVE iStock than grizzlies thanks to their rich diet of fish. There are also Kodiak brown bears, Katmai National Park and Preserve is any time between late May and mid-Oc- a distinct subspecies that is geographi- justly famous for volcanoes, brown bears, tober. Extenuating circumstances may cally isolated on Kodiak Island in the Gulf fish and rugged wilderness. The park also necessitate closure of any portion of of Alaska. has some noteworthy historic features, Brooks Camp, including trails and bear- Mature male bears in Katmai may weigh since it is the site of the Brooks River Na- viewing platforms for safety reasons more than 1,000 pounds. Mating occurs tional Historic Landmark, with North Amer- without advance notice. from May to mid-July, and cubs are born in ica’s highest concentration of prehistoric The NPS has built a new bridge and board- dens in mid-winter. Up to four cubs may be human dwellings (about 900). If volcanic walk over a lower section of the Brooks River born per litter, weighing just a mere pound activity was what originally sparked the to improve safety and enhance resources, each! Cubs stay with their mother for two interest of the National Park Service, the hopefully helping facilitate the movement of years, during which time she does not re- population of brown bears continues to be people and reduce stress to wildlife. produce. The interval between litters usually one of the area’s most salient features and Advance reservations are required runs at least three years. Brown bears don’t major attractions. at the NPS campground. Please call Katmai National Park is home to more than tend to put down roots, instead they dig a (877) 444-6777. The fee is $12 per per- 2,000 brown bears, some of which weigh more new den every year, entering it in November than 1,000 pounds. A VOLCANIC LEGACY son per night June 1 through September and emerging to greet spring in April. About Katmai National Park and Preserve was 17 and $6 per person per night in May BEARS half a bear’s lifetime is spent in their dens. created to conserve the famed Valley of and September 18 through October 31, The protection of brown bears is an Ten Thousand Smokes, a spectacular 40 plus a $6 reservation fee. Campers are equally compelling priority for the park. BEAR VIEWING square-mile, 100- to 700-foot-deep, pyro- limited to seven nights in July and 14 To preserve this magnificent animal The chance to view brown bears in their clastic ash flow deposited by Novarupta Vol- nights per calendar year. Group size is lim- and its varied habitat, the boundaries of natural habitat is one of the most popular cano. Initially declared a national monument ited to six. Brooks Lodge information is Katmai were extended over the years, and activities in Katmai. Plan ahead and recog- in 1918, Katmai preserved a living laboratory available at (800) 544-0551 or online at in 1980, the area was designated a national nize that safety and preparation are key. of its cataclysmic volcanic eruption six years katmailand.com. park and preserve. Although you may encounter a bear earlier. Intervening years have seen most of For park information, contact Katmai The number of brown bears at Katmai anywhere from late May to December, the surface geothermal features cool. Even National Park & Preserve, 1000 Silver St., has grown to more than 2,000. During the best viewing times at Brooks Camp today, there are at least 14 volcanoes in Kat- Building 603, P.O. Box 7, King Salmon, the peak of the world’s largest sockeye are late June through July and September. mai considered “active,” though none of AK 99613; call (907) 246-3305; or visit salmon run each July—and the return of In fact, expect July and September to be these is currently erupting. nps.gov/katm. the “spawned out” salmon in Septem- crowded with both bears and people! ber—bears typically congregate in Brooks There are five bear viewing platforms in PLAN YOUR VISIT GETTING TO KATMAI Camp along the Brooks River and the Katmai. Delays in getting to and from the The park is open year-round but is typi- There is no road access to Katmai, located Naknek Lake and Brooks Lake shorelines. platforms are common and can occur at cally inaccessible during winter. The NPS on the Alaska Peninsula, across from Kodiak To the east, coastal bears enjoy clams, any time. These slowdowns afford visitors campground and concession amenities Island. Park Headquarters is in King Salmon, crabs and an occasional whale carcass. This the chance to view other wildlife and soak are open at Brooks Camp and Brooks about 290 air miles southwest of Anchor- dietary wealth of protein and fat helps them up the scenery around Brooks Camp. Lodge from June 1 through September 17. age. Several commercial airlines provide daily build weight so they’ll be prepared to en- Plan extra time to work around delays— Backcountry activities are also best during flights into King Salmon. Brooks Camp, along dure the long winter ahead. bears always have the right of way! There this time. the Brooks River approximately 30 air miles Alaska’s brown bears and grizzlies are occasions, especially in July, when Prime bear viewing months at from King Salmon, is a common destination are now considered to be one species, visitors are unable to get to the falls view- Brooks Camp are July and September, al- for park visitors. Brooks Camp can only be though people commonly consider griz- ing platform due to time constraints and though a few bears may be in the area at reached via small floatplane or boat. zlies to be bears that live 100 miles or flight schedules.

30 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 31 WHO’S WHOKENAI AT THE PARK FJORDS KENAI FJORDS NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL PARK ALASKA GEOGRAPHIC Alaska Geographic is a nonprofit organization ded- Kenai Fjords National Park is a dramatic icefield to the steep and rocky coast. Much of icated to the stewardship of Alaska’s public lands. glacial landscape of ice, tidewater glaciers, the park’s shoreline is exposed to the rough Founded in 1959, the organization contributes nearly deeply chiseled fjords and jagged peninsu- water of the Gulf of Alaska, although several $3 million annually to the parks, forests, refuges and las—669,983 acres of unspoiled wilder- sheltered bays and camping beaches can be other public lands of Alaska. ness on the southeast coast of Alaska’s found within the fjords. These protected ar- Along with over 100 books, films and maps, Alaska Geographic publishes visitor guides to public Kenai Peninsula. The park is capped by the eas provide opportunities for kayaking, camp- lands in including Chugach National Forest, Denali Harding Icefield, a relic from past ice ages. ing, fishing, beachcombing and enjoying the National Park and Preserve, Glacier Bay National The fabled Kenai Fjords, long, steep-sided, breathtaking scenery. Park and several more. The guides are available for glacier-carved valleys, are now filled with The park is open 24 hours a day, every free at alaskageographic.org. ocean waters. day. The Kenai Fjords National Park The company also founded the Alaska Geo- Visitor Center in Seward offers videos, graphic Institute, which offers hands-on courses set in the Alaskan wilderness. AGI’s topics range from PLAN YOUR VISIT maps, publications and exhibits. It is open the wildflowers of the Chugach to the bears of Denali and many courses in between. Visit their website Today, most of the park’s acreage mid-May through September. The Exit for more information. is roadless, rugged backcountry. The Glacier Nature Center, open daily in sum- If you’re planning a trip to the beautiful state of Alaska and want to learn more, contact Alaska Geo- Harding Icefield, a vast expanse of snow mer, offers exhibits, information and inter- graphic, available by phone at (907) 274-8440. To download free visitor guides, register for courses and and ice interrupted only by an occasional pretive programs. much more, visit the organization’s website at alaskageographic.org. “nunatak,” or lonely peak, dominates the in- For more information write to the park at: land portions of the park. Tidewater glaciers, P.O. Box 1727, Seward, AK 99664; call (907) SIGHTS TO SEE This nine-mile road leads to the Exit Glacier including Aialik Glacier, spill down from the 422-0500; or visit nps.gov/KenaiFjords. Kenai’s landscape has been shaped by gla- Nature Center, where a 1-mile accessible ciers, earthquakes and storms. loop trail offers a view of Exit Glacier, while Exit Glacier is the park’s premier at- a steeper trail continues across moraines and iStock traction. Literally the remains of a massive bedrock to the overlook. Visitors may return glacier that once extended to Resurrection via a nature trail. As you explore the Exit Gla- Bay, this slow-moving blanket of ice is like cier area, please stay on the trails and clear the tongue of a massive giant, speckled of the ice at the foot and sides of the glacier. with debris and splintered with crevices, Glacier ice is unstable, unpredictable and ex- as it barges through the Alaskan landscape tremely dangerous. There are no fees for the in a slow and methodical path. It cascades Exit Glacier area. out of the higher Harding Icefield and down Harding Icefield, an immense piece of the U-shaped glacial valley, descending ice named after President Warren Harding, nearly 2,500 feet. As it moves, the gla- is one of only four remaining icefields in cier carries material plucked from the un- the United States. It seems to stretch into derlying rock and walls and deposits it at oblivion as it enshrouds entire valleys and the glacial edge in a pile of debris called a mountaintops. The challenging but breath- moraine. Rocks embedded in the bottom takingly beautiful Harding Icefield Trail of the moving ice gouge and grind the un- parallels Exit Glacier up to the Harding Ice- derlying base rock, leaving distinctive stria- field. The trail is accessible from mid-June tions and scars on the landscape. to early October. The rest of the year, the To access the glacier, turn on to Herman trail is snow-covered and requires special Incredible views reward hikers to the Exit Glacier on Harding Icefield. Leirer Road at mile 3 of the Seward Highway. equipment and climbing experience.

32 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 33 KENAI FJORDS NATIONAL PARK KLONDIKE GOLDWHO’S WHO RUSH AT THE PARK Rugged coastal backcountry makes Three public use cabins provide oppor- up most of the park’s over 600,000 acres. tunities for exploration, wildlife viewing and NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK Access to this roadless region is by air taxi relaxation. Two rustic summer cabins—Aia- (floatplane), water taxi, charter boat or private lik and Holgate—are located along the coast Klondike Gold Rush National Historic 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Visitors can also expe- vessel. Kayaking from Seward is not recom- (open Memorial Day to Labor Day). Willow Park celebrates the Klondike Gold Rush of rience the restored Mascot Saloon, open 9 mended except for experienced paddlers. Cabin, located at Exit Glacier, is open during 1897–1898 through a total of 15 restored a.m. to 5 p.m., daily. A 30-minute film, Gold When hiking, be prepared to bushwhack; winter (mid-November to mid-April). Most buildings in the Skagway Historic District. Fever: Race to the Klondike, is shown at the there are few designated trails. Terrain is visitors access coastal cabins by floatplane, visitor center auditorium beginning every steep and requires scrambling through dense water taxi, private vessel or charter boats. KLONDIKE’S ADVENTUROUS hour from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., except at 10 vegetation. Camping and landing beaches Kayaking to the cabins from Seward requires HISTORY a.m., when a ranger leads a presentation in are few and remote. Ask at the visitor center advanced skills due to strong currents and Those initial cries of “Gold! Gold in the the auditorium about the park’s special his- for a map of designated beaches and camp- is not recommended. Willow Cabin is open Klondike!” ignited a brief but fascinat- tory and heritage. ing spots, and campfires rules. as soon as enough snowfall closes Exit Gla- ing adventure in the Yukon and Alaska. In winter, park offices and museum are Be prepared to face sudden storms, blind- cier Road. At that time, access is by snow In August 1896, Skookum Jim Mason, open from from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday ing sunlight, high winds and extreme tem- machine, dog sled, cross-country skiing and Dawson Charlie and George Washington through Friday peratures. Since ocean storms can sweep skijoring. A minimum of 18 inches of packed Carmack found gold in the Klondike River through the park any time of year, durable snow is needed to use a snow machine. To in Canada’s Yukon Territory; at the time, GETTING THERE rain gear and extra food supplies are a must; reserve a cabin in summer, call (877) 444- they had no idea they would set off one of By plane: Skagway is 80 air miles north weather may delay a charter pick-up for days. 6777 after January 3 (for the following sum- the greatest gold rushes ever. An army of of Juneau. By car: It can be reached by the Carry a map and a marine radio, and always mer); for Willow Cabin, call (907) 422-0500 hopeful gold-seekers—unaware that most South Klondike Highway; 110 miles south speak with rangers about weather condi- after October 15. The cost is $75 per night for of the good Klondike claims were already of Whitehorse, Yukon Territory. Public tions, hazards or closures before setting out. summer and $50 for winter. staked—boarded ships in Seattle and other transportation: Skagway is served by the Pacific port cities and headed north toward Alaska Marine Highway System from Ju- a vision of riches. neau and by public bus from Whitehorse. iStock From 1897 to 1898, stampeders poured For information, call (907) 983-9200; into the new Alaskan tent and shack towns of visit nps.gov/klgo; or write to Klondike Skagway and Dyea, which were jumping-off Gold Rush NHP, P.O. Box 517, Skagway, points for the 600-mile trek to the goldfields. AK 99840. Or call the Skagway CVB at (907) 983-2854 or visit skagway.com. PLAN YOUR VISIT Today, visitors to Klondike Gold Rush Na- tional Historic Park can see local museums; iStock participate in a guided tour of the Skagway Historic District; explore nature on the local trails; tour the Dyea townsite with a ranger; or hike the Chilkoot Trail, imagining the tri- umphs and travails of goldseekers. During summer (early May to the end of September), the visitor center is open 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and hour-long ranger-led walking tours of the Skagway Historic Dis- trict are offered weekdays at 9, 10 and 11 Skagway is home to one of the greatest gold Kenai Fjords rugged coastal backcountry makes up most of the park’s more than 600,000 acres. a.m., and 2 and 3 p.m., and on weekends at rushes of all times.

34 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 35 WHO’S WHOLAKE AT THE PARK CLARK NATIONAL SITKA NATIONALWHO’S WHO AT THE PARK PARK & PRESERVE HISTORICAL PARK

ing Lake Clark demands self-sufficiency Sitka National Historical Park, Alaska’s dian River footbridge past the Memorial and advanced backcountry skills. Travelers oldest federally designated park, was es- to the Russian Midshipmen who died in

Shutterstock should also be prepared for the possibility tablished as a federal entity in 1890. In the Battle of Sitka. The park’s story con- of inclement weather, delaying scheduled 1910, it became a national monument to tinues at the Russian Bishop’s House, an pick-ups, perhaps by several days. For the commemorate the 1804 Battle of Sitka 1843 log structure, which is one of three seasoned hiker, Lake Clark National Park fought between the Tlingits and the Rus- surviving examples of Russian colonial and Preserve offers an exceptionally var- sians. All that remains of this last major architecture in North America. ied experience. There are rivers to ford, conflict between Europeans and Alaska mires to avoid, and sudden and unex- Natives is the site of the Tlingit Fort and PLAN YOUR VISIT pected weather changes. battlefield, located within this scenic Sitka is located on Baranof Island on 113-acre park in a temperate rain forest. Alaska’s southeastern panhandle and CAMPING can be reached only by air or sea. Com- All camping is primitive; there are no A RICH HISTORY mercial airlines fly directly from Seattle, facilities or designated campsites. Back- Southeast Alaska totem poles and a Juneau and Anchorage. Sitka is also ac- country permits for camping and hiking temperate rain forest setting combine cessible via ferries on the Alaska Marine are not required. Campers, however, are to provide spectacular scenery along the Highway System. asked to observe Leave No Trace guide- park’s coastal trail. This trail offers a clas- The park is at the south end of Lincoln Lake Clark is mostly wilderness and demands lines to keep the wilderness pristine. Hik- sic collection of Northwest Coast totem Street, about a quarter-mile from down- self-sufficiency and advanced backcountry skills. ers and campers are also advised to leave poles—brought to the park by Alaska’s town Sitka. The visitor center and Russian an itinerary with the field headquarters at District Governor John G. Brady in 1905. Bishop’s House are on Lincoln Street. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve Port Alsworth. These histories carved in cedar were The visitor center contains ethno­ is a composite of ecosystems represent- rounded up from villages throughout south- graphic exhibits, totem poles and houses ing distinctly different regions of Alaska. PLAN YOUR VISIT eastern Alaska. Though none of the origi- artist demonstration studios where visi- The spectacular scenery stretches from Lake Clark National Park and Preserve nals came from Sitka, this art form is very tors can watch native artists at work. the shores of Cook Inlet across the Chigmit is open year-round, with its highest visita- much a part of Tlingit tradition. Many poles From May to September, the visitor center Mountains to the tundra-covered hills of the tion between June and September. There exhibited along the park’s two miles of is open daily, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; from Oc- western interior. is no highway access to the park and pre- wooded pathways are copies of originals. tober to April, Tuesday through Saturday, The park’s namesake, Lake Clark, is serve—the 2.5-mile trail to Tanalian Falls Another loop trail continues across the In- 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. The Russian Bishop’s 40 miles long. Like other bodies of water and Kontrashibuna Lake is accessible from House is open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., May

in the area, the lake supports a thriving the town of Port Alsworth. NPS through September. Ranger-led tours of salmon habitat that is critical to the Bristol There is access to the Lake Clark region the Bishop’s House and Chapel of the An- Bay salmon fishery, the largest sockeye by small aircraft including floatplane. A nunciation run every 30 minutes; there is salmon fishing grounds in the world. one- to two-hour flight from Anchorage, a $4 fee during the summer. Winter tours Kenai or Homer offers access to most are arranged Tuesday through Friday by ad- TAKING A HIKE points within the park and preserve. For vanced request. Hiking is one of the most popular activi- more information, call park headquarters For more information, call the visitor ties at the park, but since much of Lake at (907) 644-3626; or visitor information center, (907) 747-0110 or the business of- Clark is wilderness—exceptionally remote at (907) 781-2117; write to Field Head- fice, (907) 747-0107; visit nps.gov/sitk; and isolated—it is vital to be knowledge- quarters, General Delivery, Port Alsworth, The Sitka Community gathered to raise a replica or write: Sitka National Historical Park, 103 able and prepared before setting out. Hik- AK 99653; or visit nps.gov/lacl. of the Yaadaas Crest Pole. Monastery St., Sitka, AK 99835.

36 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 37 WHO’S WHOWESTERN AT THE PARK ARCTIC WRANGELL-ST.WHO’S WHO ELIAS AT THE PARK NATIONAL PARKLANDS NATIONAL PARK

The Western Arctic National Parklands more information, call (907) 442-3890 or Known as the “mountain kingdom of North buildings are locked, but a local guide com- comprises Kobuk Valley National Park, Cape visit nps.gov/cakr. America,” Wrangell-St. Elias National Park is pany has permission to lead groups through Krusenstern National Monument and Noatak the point where the Chugach, Wrangell and the safer interiors. The Kennecott Visitor National Preserve. The nearby Bering Land KOBUK VALLEY NATIONAL PARK St. Elias mountain ranges converge. This park Center is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, from Bridge functions independently. This windy Kobuk Valley National Park provides protec- is the largest in the National Park System Memorial Day through Labor Day. northernmost region has short, mild, sunny tion for several geographic features, including and includes the continent’s largest assem- The Copper Center Visitor Center summers with 24 hours of daylight. But win- the central portion of the Kobuk River, the 25 blage of glaciers and the greatest collection Complex, located on Richardson Highway ter sets in early; by December there’s only square-mile Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, and of peaks above 16,000 feet. Mount St. Elias, between Glennallen and Copper Center, is one hour of daylight per day! the Little Kobuk and Hunt River dunes. Sand at 18,008 feet, is the second-highest peak in open daily in summer, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., May The parks are open year-round. The visi- created by the grinding action of ancient gla- the United States. 15 through September 29; closed October tor center is located at the Northwest Arctic ciers was carried here by wind and water, through April. Heritage Center in Kotzebue, where educa- and dunes now cover much of the valley. For PLAN YOUR VISIT Ranger-led programs are presented in tional and interpretive programs are available. more information, call (907) 442-3890 or visit With towering mountains, massive gla- summer at visitor centers and at Princess The center’s hours are 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. nps.gov/kova. ciers, powerful rivers, a seemingly endless Lodge in Copper Center; inquire locally about Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. variety of flora and fauna—plus Kennecott, times, topics and location. Saturday; closed Sunday, June through Au- NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE a National Historic Landmark—Wrangell-St. Other local outfitters and guides offer gust. From September through May, the of- Noatak National Preserve is a stunning un- Elias National Park has something for ev- a variety of activities, including river trips, fice closes weekdays from 12 to 1 p.m. and is spoiled wilderness. As one of North Ameri- eryone. Consisting of more than 13 million flightseeing, glacier hikes and backpack not open on Saturdays and Sundays. ca’s largest mountain-ringed river basins with acres, the park is located in a setting full of adventures. To get to Kotzebue or nearby Bettles by an intact ecosystem, the Noatak River envi- natural and historic wonders. Visitors who want an added element of plane, fly from Anchorage or Fairbanks. To rons feature some of the Arctic’s finest arrays Visiting Kennecott Mines National His- adventure can consider a backcountry trip, go from Kotzebue to the parklands, there are of plants and animals. The river also offers toric Landmark is safe with a tour guide or which presents challenges to even the hardi- scheduled air taxi flights to villages and char- wilderness float trip adventures. Noatak is not in any historic area open to the public. Keep est travelers—those who persevere will be tered flights to specific park areas. accessible by road. Primary access is by air or to the gravel path and avoid the steep slopes rewarded with a vast, pristine wilderness and For more information, call the Northwest boat; during winter, snow machine and dog- where loose debris is present. Likewise, do remarkable solitude. Arctic Heritage Center at (907) 442-3890, or sled travel are common. For more information, not attempt to walk on decks or stairs at- The most direct way to reach the park by during summer call (907) 442-3760, or write: call (907) 442-3890 or visit nps.gov/noat. tached to the buildings. The doors of the commercial plane is to fly into Anchorage, NPS, P.O. Box 1029, Kotzebue, AK 99752. then take an air taxi to the Gulkana Airport in

NPS Glennallen and on into the park. By car, the CAPE KRUSENSTERN iStock Copper Center Visitor Center is about four Cape Krusenstern National Monument is hours east of Anchorage. Two gravel roads a treeless coastal plain dotted with lagoons enter the park—the McCarthy Road and Na- and backed by gently rolling limestone hills. besna Road. Be advised, though, that some The bluffs on the cape—along with a series car rental companies prohibit clients from of 114 beach ridges—record the changing accessing these roads. For more informa- shorelines of the Chukchi Sea over thou- tion, call the Copper Center Visitor Center, sands of years. In summer, wildflowers (907) 822-7250. You can also write: Wrangell- color the beach, ridges and nearby hills. St. Elias National Park and Preserve, 106.8 Migratory birds from around the world nest A hiker descends from Copter Peak in Noatak Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark Richardson Hwy., P.O. Box 439, Copper Cen- here. There are no developed facilities. For National Preserve are safe and can be toured with a guide. ter, AK 99573; or visit nps.gov/wrst.

38 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 39 WHO’S WHOYUKON-CHARLEY AT THE PARK RIVERS WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK NATIONAL PRESERVE NATURE & WILDLIFE

Located near the Canadian border in cen- tered drop-off and pick-up, or continuation to A state of great diversity, Alaska com- Along the coastline, there are occasion- tral Alaska, Yukon-Charley Rivers National Circle, must be arranged. prises some of the most majestic natural en- ally seals, walrus, beluga and bowhead Preserve protects part of the Yukon River and virons in the world—mountains, rainforests whales. On land, there are moose, caribou, the entire Charley River basin. Rustic cabins PLAN YOUR VISIT and fjords just to name a few—and these grizzly bears, wolverine, wolves and many and historic sites are reminders of the role of The preserve is open year-round. The places encourage a range of ecosystems. smaller Arctic species. the Yukon River during the 1898 gold rush. Eagle Visitor Center is open from 8 a.m. to Plants and wildlife are specially adapted to More than 400 species of plants have The rolling hills are home to an array of wild- 5 p.m., daily, from mid-June through mid- the different climate zones, so Alaska’s parks been listed in Bering Land Bridge preserve. life, and the Charley River is considered by September; it is closed the rest of the year. are home to a tremendous variety of plants Many evolved in ancient Beringia and many to be the most spectacular in Alaska. Scheduled air service is between Fairbanks and animals. spread into Asia or northern Canada and and Eagle, Monday through Friday. Air taxis the United States. Tundra plant communi- HISTORY service Circle and also Coal Creek Camp. ALAGNAK WILD RIVER ties range from wet tundra on the coast to The Klondike Gold Rush changed for- Two highways serve nearby towns. The Wildlife thrives along the Alagnak River, alpine tundra on mountains. ever the land along the upper Yukon River. 161-mile Taylor Highway begins at Tetlin its surrounding environs inhabited by a Fishing enthusiasts can cast a line for When gold was discovered in 1897, popu- Junction on the Alaska Highway and ends at wide diversity of species typical of south- salmon, grayling, char, whitefish and lation spread along the river into the area Eagle, 12 river miles from the preserve. It is west Alaska. Brown bears seek out the pike in area rivers and lakes (both hunting now encompassed by the preserve. usually open from mid-April to mid-October. area to feed on spawning salmon. Moose and fishing are permitted under state regu- Towns developed at places like Seven- The Steese Highway, open year-round, be- can be seen year-round, while most of the lations; Alaska hunting and fishing licenses tymile, Star City, and Nation, but mining gins in Fairbanks and travels 162 miles to Alagnak River drainage west of Kukaklek are required). machines replaced miners and populations Circle, 14 miles from the preserve. In good and Nonvianuk lakes is a winter home for The preserve contains extensive lava diminished. Today, all that remains of these weather, it is a 3 1/2- to 4-hour hour drive caribou. Beaver, lynx, mink, otter, fox, flows and ash/stream explosion craters— towns are points on a map and occasional from Fairbanks. Ask about road conditions wolverine and the occasional wolf can be now turned to lakes called maars. It also of- cabin ruins. In its heyday, the Yukon River before setting out. seen along the river. fers dynamic coast and beach environments served as a highway, full of miner and For information, call Eagle Visitor Cen- Alagnak area vegetation includes of barrier islands and low sand dunes. sternwheeler traffic. ter (907) 547-2233; Fairbanks Alaska Public spruce, willows and many types of Lands Information Center, (907) 459-3730; or berry bushes (salmon berries, blackber- DENALI THINGS TO DO visit nps.gov/yuch. ries, blueberries and cranberries). Fiddle- Denali National Park and Preserve is burst- The Eagle Visitor Center offers a short head ferns, wild celery and sourdock ing with life—more than 750 species of flow-

video and exhibits depicting the rich history, NPS are endemic and collected by subsis- ering plants, 39 species of mammals, 169 geology and ecology of Yukon-Charley Riv- tence users. species of birds, 14 species of fish and even ers. Rangers work with the Eagle Historical one hardy type of amphibian all thrive within Society giving tours of parts of the Eagle His- BERING LAND BRIDGE its borders. toric District. The Seward Peninsula is home to sea- The park is home to moose, grizzly Six public use cabins in the preserve are birds like gulls, murres and kittiwakes; bears, Dall sheep, caribou and wolves. If available on a first come, first-served basis. migrating and nesting waterfowl including you take the shuttle bus to Wonder Lake or Rafting, kayaking and canoeing are popu- ducks, swans and geese; as well as birds spend time in the backcountry, chances are lar on the Yukon. Powerboats are also per- of prey like hawks, eagles, falcons and you will spot at least one of these species. mitted. Many paddlers start in Eagle and end owls. Since the area stands at the cross- Denali is also home to yellow-cheeked in Circle, either arranging to be picked up or roads of the Asiatic-North American fly- voles, hoary marmots and beavers. During flown back to Eagle. Rafting and kayaking There are no maintained trails in the preserve way, it offers a rare glimpse of several Old summer, watch for rodents like red squir- are also popular on the Charley—air-char- for hikers, though there are game trails. World and Asian bird species. rels, mice, voles, shrews and lemmings

40 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 41 NATURE & WILDLIFE NATURE & WILDLIFE

THE WOOD FROG this zone include wormwood, lupine, win- KENAI FJORDS tergreen and goldenrod. At Kenai Fjords National Park, the veg- While the bears slumber, Denali’s lone am- The alpine zone is generally found at el- etation tends to be sparse, but hardy. Due phibian, the wood frog, spends the cold arctic evations above 3,500 feet and consists of to acidic or sandy soil, more than 90 per-

winter months frozen solid in layers of muck. Bixted Kerry tundra, most often dominated by the dwarf cent of the landscape remains bare. The Wood frogs are just one of many creatures species of heath, rose and willow. The up- vegetation that survives is often divided that use “cryoprotectant” chemicals to sur- per limit of plant growth is about 7,500 feet; into four major ecosystems. The highest, vive temperatures as low as -54°F. As winter elevations above 8,000 feet are mostly blan- the arctic-alpine zone, is above the tree approaches, wood frogs prepare for the cold keted by glacial ice. line and dominated by sedges, grasses, weather by burrowing into decaying leaves on willows and other dwarf plants. In lower forest floors. As daily temperatures dip below GLACIER BAY elevations, dense thickets of alder, wil- 32°F, the eyeballs and extremities of wood frogs A variety of marine mammals, including the low and devil’s club prepare the way for start to freeze. This first sign of freezing stimu- lates the frog’s brain to send a message to the endangered humpback whale and the threat- mature stands of spruce and hemlock liver, which starts to convert stored glycogen ened Steller sea lion, swim and forage in park forests; these, along with bunchberry into glucose, a sugar. The glucose circulates waters. Thousands of harbor seals breed and and mountain cranberry, make up the through the frog’s bloodstream and into the cells nurture their pups on floating ice in Johns Hudsonian zone. On the coast, the Hud- where it lowers to the freezing point of water. have found that core organs, such as the heart Hopkins Inlet and among the reefs of the sonian zone merges with the Canadian The glucose also protects cells from damage and liver, freeze last and thaw first. That means Beardslee Islands. Minke and killer whales— zone, a comparatively lush ecosystem of and minimizes the effects of dehydration. As vital body functions such as circulation and me- along with harbor and Dall’s porpoises—feed Sitka spruce, salmonberry and skunk the temperature continues to drop, the frogs tabolism are maintained for the longest possible in the park’s near-shore waters. Sea otters cabbage. Offshore, the coastal ma- actually freeze solid. Throughout the entire win- time. Once the temperatures begin to rise in are rapidly colonizing Glacier Bay, Icy rine zone, concentrated on islands and ter, hibernating frogs are inanimate: they don’t spring, the frogs thaw—and they’re off in search Strait and Cross Sound. From the tour beaches, includes large stands of kelp breathe and their hearts don’t beat. Scientists of ponds for breeding. boat, watch for tufted and horned and eelgrass. puffins, guillemots, murrellets and When hiking, look for mountain goats, scrambling to store food that will sustain grayling, Dolly Varden, lake trout, north- kittiwakes. Bald eagles are easily seen along marmots, bears, moose and bald ea- them through winter. ern pike, slimy sculpin, Alaska blackfish, park shorelines. Back on land, watch for gles. The coastal areas offer views of A variety of migratory birds come to the arctic lamprey and longnose sucker. mountain goats, brown and black bears, river seals, sea lions, sea otters and migrat- park from all corners of the globe—some The vegetation in Denali is a mosaic otters, porcupines, red squirrels, moose, coy- ing whales. More than 50,000 seabirds, from as far away as Siberia, Japan, Hawaii, of taiga and tundra ecosystems that are otes and wolves. including murres, puffins and squealing California, Costa Rica and even Antarctica. separated into three zones: lowland, sub- black-legged kittiwakes, occupy coastal Some species, like the red-throated loon, alpine and alpine. cliffs in summer. sandhill crane and long-tailed duck, The lowland zone occurs at elevations iStock One of the best places to observe stop only briefly before continuing north- below 2,500 feet and is predominately for- wildlife in Kenai Fjords is at the Chiswell ward. Others, including the great horned ested. It includes plants like alder, dwarf Islands, which are located at the mouth owl, raven and willow ptarmigan, are birch, willow and blueberries. River corri- of Aialik Bay in the Gulf of Alaska. Tech- year-round residents. dors and upland areas here are home to for- nically, the Chiswells are not in the park; Most fish can’t tolerate the rivers inside the ests of white spruce, paper birch, aspen, they are part of the Alaska Maritime park, because these bodies of water contain rose and cranberry. National Wildlife Refuge, but many of the a milky suspension of pulverized silt—known The subalpine zone, occurring at 2,500 same critters are seen on the rocky head- as rock flour—from glacial runoff. However, to 4,000 feet in elevation, consists of scrub lands, which are part of the national park. freshwater streams and lakes support at least vegetation dominated by dwarf birch, al- In addition, the only Steller sea lion nurs- 14 species of fish, including chum salmon, der and willow that alternates with open ery area that can be legally approached is Sea otters are a common sight in the cold chinook salmon, coho salmon, arctic spruce woodland. Other species found in waters of Alaska. situated on these islands.

42 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 43 NATURE & WILDLIFE NATURE & WILDLIFE

WATCHABLE WILDLIFE IDENTIFYING ALASKA’S BEARS BLACK BEAR GRIZZLY BEAR

1 2 3

Left Front Foot Track Left Front Foot Track – Claws shorter – Claws longer – Toes more separated and more curved – Toes closer together and less curved 4 5 6 1 CARIBOU (RANGIFER TARANDUS) 4 MOOSE (ALCES ALCES) Caribou are adapted to the cold climate, with Moose are the largest members of the deer fam- two layers of fur and hooves that change shape ily. Male moose display large antlers shaped like in cooler months to cut through snow and ice. clawed scoops, clearly distinguishing them from Heel pad of front They are most often seen in treeless tundra and females, which have none. Each year the males foot often does mountains. Their domesticated relatives in Scan- shed their antlers after mating season only to re- not show for either Left Back Foot Track species Left Back Foot Track dinavia and Russia are called reindeer. • Weight grow them the following spring. • Weight 600- 130-700 lbs • Height 3-5 ft at shoulders • Ac- 1,580 lbs • Height 6-7 ft at shoulders • Active tive year-round. Photo: iStock year-round. Photo: iStock

2 WOLF (CANIS LUPUS) 5 DALL SHEEP (OVIS DALLI DALLI) Alaska holds the largest remaining popula- It’s hard to miss the white coat and thick, curved tion of gray wolves in the U.S., with 7,000 horns of this sheep. Dall sheep perch on steep to 11,000 wolves roaming the state. They ledges and graze in open alpine ridges and mead- – Tracks of prey on sheep, goats, deer, moose, yaks and ows near slopes with extremely rugged ground— big grizzlies horses. Wolves usually travel and live in packs a treacherous habitat that detracts predators. • are larger of two to 20 members. • Weight 40-50 lbs Weight 150-300 lbs • Height 3 ft at shoulders • • Height 2-3 ft at shoulders • Active year- Active year-round. Photo: iStock round. Photo: iStock HOW TO IDENTIFY 6 MUSK OX (OVIBOS MOSCHATUS) Follow the numbers in each step: 3 WOLVERINE (GULO GULO) These shaggy survivors of the ice age have a 1. Find the lowest point of outside (largest) toe Although they’re the size of a dog, wolver- thick fur coat, called qiviut, to keep them warm, 2. Find the highest point on front edge of palm pad. ines can kill prey as large as a moose. They but they must also protect themselves from 3. Connect point 1 and 2; extend this line to the inside of the track. also have a special rotated molar that can predators. If one predator approaches, they – If more than 50% of the inside (smallest) toe is above the line, the track is from a grizzly bear. cut through frozen meat and bone. Wol- run in a line. If several predators, like wolves, – If more than 50% of the inside (smallest) toe is below the line, the track is from a black bear. verines don dark brown fur and give off a surround the group, they form a circle with all – If the line bisects the inside toe, claw marks shape of the palm pad, spacing between toes, strong, unpleasant odor. • Weight 22-36 musk oxen facing outward. • Weight 400- other signs must be used in species identification. lbs • Length 2-3 ft • Active year-round. 800 lbs • Height 4-5 ft • Active year-round. Photo: iStock Photo: iStock

44 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | | ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS 45 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK PHOTOGRAPHY

For millennia, we’ve looked towards the tion. Next, set your white balance to daylight heavens and contemplated what’s beyond settings (5500k) and turn on your mirror lock our orbit and universe. More recently, star- to avoid mirror shake. Wait until the moon is gazing has become increasingly difficult for out, too, as it’ll illuminate and add detail to millions of people living in developed areas. If your foreground. Make sure that it’s behind you live in a populated area east of the Missis- you. To capture star trails: sippi or along the Pacific coast, odds are that • Set your ISO at 200 to reduce digital noise. you can count the number of stars you see • Compose your image, making sure you on your hands. National and state parks—re- have interesting features in the foreground. mote and minimally developed—not only pro- • Choose your focal length. The longer the tect our land, but also our dark skies which focal length, the quicker your star trails will are ideal for astrophotography. start to form. There are two primary types of astropho- • Set your camera to manual mode so that tography shots that yield different, but stel- you can select your shutter speed and lar compositions. A long exposure setting aperture. will show stars trailing across the sky, while • Set your aperture between f/2.8 and f/4 for a shorter exposure will show pinpoints of best results. light—objects that a camera can capture that • Select “bulb mode” as your shutter speed. the unaided eye cannot. Both require a cam- • Use your cable release or remote to open era with interchangeable lenses and manual the shutter or set your timer for two to controls to set aperture, ISO, and exposure four minutes. AD settings. Here’s what you’ll need to start: Check your results. If your picture is too • A sturdy tripod: Simply put, a shaky tri- dark, increase the exposure time. If your trails pod will yield blurry photos. are to short, increase the exposure time. • A cable release or remote control or in- Keep playing around with your settings to get tervalometer: You’ll want to avoid touch- the results you desire. To learn how to take ing your camera to minimize shake. The photos of the milky way and millions of points addition of an intervalometer will allow you of light, visit ohranger.com/brightskies. to take sequential long exposures. • Batteries: Your aperture may be open for several hours, so it’s important to have

multiple fresh and fully charged batteries. Shutterstock • A wide lens: Use the fastest, widest lens available. • A head lamp: It’ll be useful to set up your equipment and illuminate your foreground. Check the cloud cover; if there’s too much wait until you have a clearer night. Before you start, set your focus to infinity and turn Photographing the night sky is as close as many off your autofocus and high ISO noise reduc- of us will get to exploring space.

46 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK JUST FOR KIDS

A visit to any of Alaska’s national Teachers will find distance learning and les- parks gives kids a chance to get back to son plan materials for Denali, Glacier Bay, nature, and acquire a better understand- Kenai Fjords and Sitka. ing of weather patterns, plant and ani- mal life, living history and the wonders DISCOVER DENALI of the ecosystem. At the same time, Take part in the Denali Discovery Pack they’re able to gain a better appreciation program, designed for kids ages 6 to 12, of the role rangers play in preserving and you’ll receive a backpack filled with America’s parks. fun. This pack contains an activity guide, tools and other materials that help you ex- BECOME A JUNIOR RANGER plore the park. There’s also lots of amazing Kids between the ages of 5 and 13 are wildlife to discover in Denali. Take a trip on eligible to become junior rangers! Sev- a shuttle bus and keep your eyes peeled for eral Alaska parks, including Denali, Gla- bears, caribou, sheep, wolves and moose. If cier Bay, Klondike and Lake Clark have you’re lucky, you might see all five! free, fun and informative junior ranger programs. Stop at a main visitor center GATES OF THE ARCTIC to get your free junior ranger activity Students and teachers may find an online guide. When you’re finished, bring the student handbook useful in researching this completed activity guide to a ranger, re- national park unit for projects. Simply con- cite the junior ranger pledge, sign the ju- tact the interpretive specialist at the Bettles AD nior ranger certificate and you’ll receive Ranger Station and Visitor Center. an official junior ranger badge. GLACIER BAY BECOME A WEBRANGER If you visit the park by land, be sure to Not able to come to one of Alaska’s parks? see the ranger and the exhibits in the visi- Or planning to visit one? Become a junior tor center on the second floor of Glacier Bay ranger from home! You can take a virtual Lodge. If you come by ship, look for some- tour, print out and complete the junior ranger one wearing the familiar gray and green activity page, and mail the completed form uniform, badge and ranger hat! Rangers back to the park. All the information you join all cruise ships and tour boats that visit need is at www.nps.gov/webrangers. the bay. If you are a virtual visitor, log on to nps.gov/glba/forkids. VIRTUAL VISITS AT SCHOOL Alaska’s national parks aren’t just for WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS fun during vacations. Students can find There are millions of acres of mountains, a variety of online resources that will glaciers, wildlife and old mines to explore. help them complete school projects at If you can’t actually visit the park, you can go.nps.gov/AKteachers. You’ll find maps, learn about this very special place online at photographs, park facts and activities. nps.gov/wrst/learn/kidsyouth.

48 ALASKA’S NATIONAL PARKS | www.nalgene.com For more inspiration, follow us here @nalgeneusa AD