Volume 19 • Issue 2 • February 2019

50 Cremata Andrew ©

Departments Fly 20 Features Traveler 6 Boats 22 Davis’s Awesome Adventure Creel 10 Saltwater 30 by Marcus Weiner 36 Gear Bag 12 Stillwater 34 Ask most anglers from whom they learned to fish, and the Online 14 Recipe 70 usual answer is their fathers. A special bond often forms from childhood fishing trips, especially trips that last a Fishing for a Compliment 16 Advertiser Index 73 few days. Publisher Marcus Weiner took his son, Davis, Salmon Sense 18 Final Drift 74 to the Nush this year to fish for Chinook.

How to Plan a Remote Float Trip by Fish Alaska Staff 42 36 64 An Alaskan float trip can provide the absolute best that North America can offer regarding angling, wilderness,

© Troy Buzalsky © Troy scenery and adventure. However, float trips are not © Marcus Weiner © Marcus something to be approached without considerable planning. Our staff, contributors and float-trip experts share some of their experience with you to help you plan a float trip, whether it’s your first or your 15th.

Alpine Fishing Adventures by Andrew Cremata 50 Reaching the best Alaska fishing holes requires a little extra effort. Most anglers equate Alaska fishing with fishing close to sea level. However, like the lower 48, 42 Alaska has alpine fishing opportunities for lake trout, grayling and even brook trout. Cremata even tells of a © Dave Fish © Dave nearly two-foot-long brookie . . .

Discovering Real Alaska by Scott Haugen 58 Flying into remote parts of Alaska, whether for a day trip or a week-long float, puts you into places with big, unpressured fish, incredible scenery and often abundant wildlife. In this piece, Scott paints a picture of what you can expect from a typical fly out by describing two of his recent fly-out trips.

Abundance at Every Corner—Alaska’s Kwethluk River by Troy Buzalsky 64 The 2019 Anchorage Troy Buzalsky spent 11 days this summer floating the Boat Show Preview Kwethluk River near Bethel. Challenged by grayling, COVER / Our good buddy Scott Stamper of Yakutat silvers, rainbows, sweepers and braids. In hindsight, he Lodge, showing off the rewards of a fine day page 22 catching coho on the Akwe River. © Brian Woobank said the Kwethluk took him on the trip of a lifetime.

February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 3 PUBLISHERS Marcus Weiner Melissa Norris ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERS Patrick Speranza Kathy Anderson EDITOR George Krumm OPERATIONS MANAGER Wayne Norris EFFICIENCY MANAGER Ana Taylor ART DIRECTOR Bailey Anderson PRODUCTION MANAGER Russell K. Porsley III GRAPHIC DESIGNER Melissa Wong

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Greg Brush, Troy Buzalsky, Andrew Cremata, Scott Haugen, Pudge Kleinkauf, J.D. Richey, Terry Sheely, E. Donnall Thomas Jr., Jeremy Anderson, Nicholas Olhrich

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Anthony Madden, Tony Davis, Kristin Dunn, Brian Woobank, Kate Crump

REGIONAL SALES MANAGER Rick Birch (907) 394-1763 SALES EXECUTIVE Garry Greenwalt (907) 345-4337

Fish Alaska Magazine PO Box 772424 Eagle River, Alaska 99577 Toll Free 1-877-220-0787 (907) 345-4337 main (907) 223-8497 advertising www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com ISSN 2475-5710 (print) ISSN 2475-5729 (online) SUBSCRIBE TODAY! Check out our specials at www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com Already a Subscriber? Call for our renewal specials! (907)-345-4337 Toll Free: 1-877-220-0787

Fish Alaska magazine is published ten times annually in January-July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov and December by Fish Alaska Publications, LLC, P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. Send all address changes to P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. One year subscriptions are $30 U.S. dollars for subscriptions in the U.S., $50 U.S in Canada, and $80 U.S. in all other countries.The single copy price is $6.99 in U.S. dollars. To subscribe by phone please call 907-345-4337. Editorial correspondence should be sent to Attn: Editor, Fish Alaska magazine, P.O. Box 772424, Eagle River, Alaska 99577. Unsolicited manuscripts and photos will be considered, but must be accompanied by a self- addressed stamped envelope. Although we will take care, Fish Alaska is not responsible for the loss or return of unsolicited materials. The opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the opinions of Fish Alaska magazine publishers and editors.

©2019 by Fish Alaska Publications, LLC. All rights reserved. Van Hartley By Melissa Norris

It was 1983 when a 30-year-old Van Hartley overheard his father Hugh take a memorable phone call. His dad listened intently as a budding sportfishing outfitter on the Alagnak River in Alaska outlined his plan while seeking monetary backing to fund his dream. After his Dad hung up, Van asked him about the conversation. Hugh wasn’t interested in backing this gentleman in his The Hartley family enjoying a visit at lodge quest, but Van curiously asked for his Bear Trail Lodge. © Van Hartley phone number and called him up. “Would you need air transportation support for this lodging outfit, by chance?” Van asked. The outfitter agreed he could use a trustworthy flight service plus he put Van Van Hartley flying one of his aircraft. in touch with two more outfitters providing © Kate Crump angling services on the Alagnak River, also known as the Branch River. The other outfitters showed their interest and support for his junior year. His family moved from when Van described his plans to start an King Salmon to Anchorage in November air-taxi service on the Alagnak, hence the of 1969 where he attended and graduated beginning of Branch River Air Service. from Dimond High in 1970. He took “I didn’t have a commercial pilot’s license, classes at UAA until he graduated in 1976 or an instrument rating, or an airplane, with a bachelor’s degree in economics while but I managed to do all of that in about taking some time off for travel and work in four months in between January and June between classes at UAA. During his college of 1984. I got a commercial pilot’s license years Van worked the summers at Brooks, and an instrument rating, and applied for Grosvenor, and Kulik lodges as camp help a state commerce transportation certificate. his first season and then as a fly out and Once I got that, I was able to take it into home river fishing guide. He managed the FAA and get a 135 certificate. Then I Grosvenor Camp for three half-seasons, and Van on a rare day when he could bought an airplane and got it approved for then would move to Kulik Lodge to guide break to go fishing. © Kate Crump 135 operations. We took a check ride and for the rest of the season. These three lodges then arrived on the Alagnak in early June of were known as Katmailand and are now part them right now like Bryan Pfaender and 1984 to start the operations of Branch River of Bristol Adventures. Van worked at Kulik Lenny Anderson. Bryan is their chief pilot Air Service.” Lodge his last full summer season in 1977. and has been working with Branch River for Right away two of the Alagnak outfitters Once he graduated he found work in the the last nine years. Lenny has been working began working with Van, who operated oil industry, employed by several casing and with Van for 15 years, having started out as as a solo pilot in his Cessna 206 on floats. tubing service companies, until 1983 when dock hand until earning his pilot’s licenses Within a month of being there, once seeing he started his air-service pursuit. and then accumulating the hours to become how Van worked, the third outfitter got Halfway through the summer of 1986, a commercial 135 line pilot. on board too. After that first season Van Van’s Dad had to step out of his role as a It takes a special person to be a pilot, realized if he was going to continue to do all pilot for Branch River due to an injury, so someone who excels at making sound of this, he would need a bigger airplane. A Van hired another pilot and then ultimately judgement calls like Van. “My job is to de Havilland Beaver was the obvious choice. bought his Dad’s Beaver the next year. In mitigate risk on a daily basis,” said Van, Van’s father, who bequeathed him his love the Spring of 1988 Van moved his base of “That’s the job of our chief pilot and our of flying, owned such a Beaver so he came operations to King Salmon, Alaska, where mechanic. As you know, flying planes in out to fly with Van during his second season Branch River Air resides today. They began Alaska is inherently risky. We do not push with plans to continue. to fly for state and federal agencies. By the our pilots to over-achieve. We want our Flying runs through Van’s blood. Hugh summer of 1989 they had three planes in pilots to realize limitations and encourage Hartley was a pilot and airplane mechanic operation. At that point they were also flying them to come back and land if needed. It’s in New Iberia, Louisiana, who was fatefully for several famous fly-fishing lodges making safety first which is fueled by a constant hired by Orin Seybert at Peninsula Airways roots in King Salmon before they had their communication process.” in the winter of 1967-1968. He packed own planes. Van shared that their team uses sayings up his belongings and tools and drove to Currently, Branch River Air Service has like, “When in doubt shuttle out.” And he Alaska. He then headed out to King Salmon. five airplanes; three Beavers and two 206s, shared that the Garmin InReach has been an Later that summer Van drove the ALCAN both tried-and-true aircraft commonly amazing help to track planes, improve flight Highway with his Mom and little sister to found across Alaska. Van shared that he’s been and follow, plus they drastically improve the rejoin Hugh in Bristol Bay, Alaska. fortunate to know a bunch of great pilots communication between pilots and base. Van went to Bristol Bay High School over the years including several working for They didn’t have such tools when Van started

6 FishAlaskaMagazine.com February 2019 flying; it was by compass or directional gyro. On a busy day all five aircraft take off in She started her own guiding operation, and I asked Van what he did right early on. the morning around 7 a.m. to various rivers today she is a historic and acclaimed fly- He said getting married and starting an air that are the most productive at the time fishing guide and proprietor of Bear Trail service. Van and his wife Donna have been for day trips. If they have extra groups of Lodge. I asked Nanci to shed some light on married for more than 37 years having met day fishermen, they may run back to King Van for us. in Anchorage on a blind date in the early Salmon for a second flight. In the middle of “I would be honored,” Nanci said. 80s. They were married not long before Van the day Branch River’s pilots transport lodge “Van and I have been friends and business began Branch River Air. They have a son, guests for several remote outfitters, bringing partners for many years. I have never known Tyler, and a daughter, Vanessa, each now new groups and taking out the departing anyone more reliable and conscientious to in their thirties. Tyler is the executive chef groups. During midday they also may fly work with when it comes to flying in Bristol at Brian Kraft’s Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge float-fishing groups to their origins or pick Bay, and that’s exactly what you want and and worked for Nanci Morris-Lyon and them up after their float is completed. Later what you need. Van has built his flying Heath Lyon at Bear Trail Lodge as a chef for in the afternoon it’s back out to pick up their service from the ground up and he is still four seasons. Vanessa is in nursing school day trippers. my favorite pilot. He knows the routes I’m at UAA. It’s a pleasant life Van and Donna Branch River Air provides service from flying like the back of his hand and nails have created for themselves and their family, King Salmon, Alaska, to destinations his landings so smoothly a sleeping tiger providing safe air travel to thousands and throughout Katmai National Park would not wake. He has done a great job thousands of people over the years. and Preserve, Aniakchak National Park passing his extensive knowledge on to the “We have a really good client base and and Preserve, Lake Clark National Park pilots he hires; creating a safe, dependable I’m grateful for that,” said Van. He’s seen and Preserve, Becharof/Alaska Peninsula service and carrying on a legacy of safe flying plenty of change over the years including National Wildlife refuges as well as the in Bristol Bay. I can remember more than the increase in sport-fishing lodges and the Nushagak River drainage, Iliamna drainages one occasion when Van has picked me up deterioration of caribou hunting in the area. and, of course, the Alagnak and Naknek from the field when I was already getting They used to fly a lot of hunters into the River drainages. They bring clients to ready to spend the night. He has long been region but provide very little of that these specific rivers and lakes throughout these a sleeping giant—a key piece of Bristol Bay days. There are trophy moose around but regions on their quest for sport fishing, sport-fishing heritage and I’m so glad he is not in huge numbers and spring- or fall bear viewing, float trips, flight seeing and getting some long-due acknowledgement.” bear hunts, depending on the year. The some hunting. We wholeheartedly agree, Nanci. Cheers government contracts are not what they To this day Branch River Air Service flies to you, Van Hartley. used to be as several agencies now own and for a bunch of lodges and guide-clients like operate their own planes. It’s sport fishing Nanci Morris-Lyon who has worked with that is their bread and butter, keeping five Van since the early 80s, beginning when she Melissa Norris is Publisher of Fish Alaska and pilots in the air most of the summer. worked at the then Quinnat Landing Hotel. Hunt Alaska magazines. though. For a stream that is only about 80 miles long, it has produced more big kings than any other river on the planet. I fished the Kenai’s Size Matters kings hard for many years, and in that time, it By George Krumm has changed. I’m not talking about the crowds, or number of guides, or physical changes to the Size matters. At least, it seems to for anglers. river. I’m talking about the average size of the Bigger is almost always better, and Alaska is big fish, and the age classes present in a given year. in every way. Many people have moved to Alaska Kenai kings have been shrinking. The number of to be close to great fishing and the promise of big 4-ocean and older kings has diminished, while fish, and many travel to Alaska not only for the numbers of 2- and 3-ocean fish are making up a abundance of some of the fisheries, but also the larger portion of the run than they used to. Why size of the fish. is this? When I was a kid, I read Field and Stream, The main reason is probably due to generations Outdoor Life, and Sports Afield and was of harvesting the biggest of the kings. Since the mesmerized by stories of Alaska angling. By the early 80s, anglers flocked to the Kenai for a time I was in my late teens, the Kenai River king chance at one of its 50-pound or bigger kings. It fishery was becoming well known. What fueled seemed like the supply was inexhaustible. Boats it? Huge fish. Chinook salmon of magnitudes of four anglers per day bonked four big kings that were hard to fathom. King salmon are per day, all through the season, for years. They just one of the species that grows to sizes in released the smaller fish, hoping for a big one. Alaska that are uncommon in the lower 48. Those 4-ocean and older kings that got the wood Outsized rainbow trout, grayling, Dolly Varden, shampoo obviously didn’t get to spawn; the halibut, lingcod, and others are all a draw to the 3-ocean fish did, though. Through a process of Great Land. unnatural selection (harvesting only the biggest; My first trip to Alaska was in 1990. The plan said a different way, harvesting only the older age was to fish for kings and halibut. Friend Jerry classes), we have been shaping the demographic Sisemore picked me up at the Anchorage airport of the Kenai’s king run by creating a situation in late evening. We drove to a convenience store, in which more small kings and fewer large kings then headed straight down to the Kasilof to fish made it to the spawning beds. for kings. We fished through the night, and by Exacerbating the problem is that many 6 a.m. or so, I’d hooked 14 kings, landing most Kenai kings stay in the fishing zone for weeks, of them. These were hard-fighting, chrome fish, increasing their vulnerability to harvest. We’ve wearing sea lice more often than not, but they made some progress over the years on this front weren’t big by Kenai standards. by creating sanctuaries, but the fish don’t know The next day we regrouped and prepared for where the sanctuaries are, and they do move a three- or four-day fly out to a small river on around. Sanctuaries are an improvement, but the west side of Cook Inlet. We landed a bunch they don’t solve the shrinking king problem. of kings there, too, but again, nothing like the Though this may be controversial to say, I pictures I’d seen of huge Kenai kings that graced believe in-river sport harvest to be the driving magazine covers in the 80s. factor behind the Kenai’s shrinking kings. That We returned to Anchorage, then drove south means we sport anglers are both the problem, to Homer for a quick halibut trip. I’d fished and the solution. We need to take responsibility for halibut in Washington. I wasn’t prepared for this; no amount of finger pointing at other for the number of halibut we caught that day. user groups will stand up to scrutiny on this Tides were crap—it was really ripping—not the issue—our in-river, sports over-harvest of best situation, but we caught a bunch of fish. the 4-ocean and older kings caused this. The Nothing huge that day, though. I don’t think shrinking size of Kenai kings is reversible, but we caught any over 50 pounds, but I had sore we’ll need to modify our harvest behavior to muscles the next day or two. make it happen. If we can modify our harvest This trip forced me to evaluate my expectations behavior, it is possible to rebuild the distribution regarding big fish and Alaska. It was clear that of age classes to what they were back in the 70’s. although big fish live in Alaska, perhaps more We sportsmen need to limit harvest of the older so than other parts of the country, they weren’t age classes of Chinook on the Kenai if we want necessarily easy to catch, and certainly not a to see more big kings in the river. guarantee. It also became clear that to catch big We all want to land huge Chinook. We fish, you must fish the places where they are, and want our kids and family members to land not all bodies of water have them, even in Alaska. huge Chinook. That doesn’t mean we need To catch truly big fish, you have to fish to eat huge Chinook. Instead, harvest the where there actually are some. The Kenai is a smaller Kenai kings—say 30 pounds or less. great place to fish for big fish. The world record Take in-the-water photos to memorialize your king salmon came from the Kenai. 30-plus- catch, then let the big ones go so they can inch rainbows are not uncommon; big Dollies seed the gravel and rebuild what we once had. aren’t uncommon here either. A few 20-plus- Size matters. pound coho are landed every year, and the state record pink and sockeye salmon are both from George Krumm is Editor of Fish Alaska and the Kenai. Hunt Alaska magazines. He can be reached at The kings are what put the Kenai on the map, [email protected]. Blue Fox Vibrax Chaser Man Gear Alaska Gen2-MTU- MOS Holster rapala.com This new for 2019 offering from Blue Fox adds a soft-bait trailer and longer shaft Honda Marine BF40 and BF50 mangearalaska.com to a traditional Vibrax. The resulting lure imitates a bait fish chasing the lure, Outboard Motors Man Gear Alaska is proud to and creates both visual attraction and flash. The brass gear within the bell honda.com produce Made-In-America products, is free-turning and emits a fish-attracting low-frequency sound, as The Honda Marine BF40 and and their line is continuing to Williamson Gomame Jig well as greatly reducing spinner-generated line twist. The 45° mid- BF50 outboard motors provide expand. Their Gen2-MTU-MOS rapala.com depth blade (choose between size 2 (3/10-ounce) or 3 (½-ounce)) the perfect balance of powerful holsters have a patented design In 2019, this jig now is available in a 2¾- runs in two- to four feet of water and comes in six color options. acceleration and best-in-class and provide the capability to carry and 3½-ounce model. Pick from seven fishy-looking color fuel efficiency for both freshwater a handgun with a small RMR patterns in this S-shaped jig that produces an obvious wounded- and saltwater applications. style optic, or reflex sight. These baitfish action. The jig also emits flash due to the high-quality The duo’s in-line, three-cylinder holsters are manufactured so that foiled finishes. It’s rigged with a VMC Permasteel treble hook. engines feature Electronic Fuel the handgun can be carried with or We’ll target the range of Alaska bottomfish, in addition to Injection (EFI) as well as several without the optic. The Gen2-MTU- saltwater coho, with this jig in 2019. MOS line of holsters can be purchased in three colors: black, Honda-exclusive technologies Storm 360GT Jig Heads including the patented Boosted coyote brown and universal digital camouflage. Their two mag pouch option was specifically designed for the Glock Model rapala.com Low Speed Torque (BLAST) This rattling jig head is system, which advances ignition 40 MOS with the 6-inch-long slide, but also works just as well with most other shorter-barrel handguns. designed to pair with the Luhr Jensen Cut Bait Head With Rigging timing for explosive ‘hammer- Storm 360GT body to down’ acceleration, and Lean produce a lifelike lure that rapala.com Burn Control that adjusts the looks and sounds good to This new product includes a teaser head with oversized air/fuel mixture for maximum fuel holographic 3D eyes, a pre-drilled hole with peg, four feet Fishewear Brown predatory fish. The ⅛- and efficiency at cruise. Among the ¼-ounce heads pair with of 40-pound Suffix fluorocarbon leader and two snelled lightest outboards in their class, the Trout Pattern VMC 4/0 TechSet hooks. The head has been designed to fishewear.com 3½-inch bodies, the ¼- 214-pound BF40 and BF50 EFI and ⅜-ounce heads match impart a rolling action and can be used with a herring strip motors feature a lightweight, 22-amp Inspired by a love for or artificial bait. Cut Bait Heads can also be purchased brown trout this new up with 4½-inch bodies and the ⅜- and ½-ounce heads alternator that offers best-in-class pair with 5½-inch bodies. The 360GT jig features a lifelike unrigged and come in a range of colors. 17-amp charging capacity for multiple pattern is bright and We’ll troll these in 2019 and may vibrant and looks fantastic design, 3D holographic eyes, a single-ball rattle, and a VMC electronic accessories. The BF40 and Coastal Black hook (2/0 (⅛- and ¼-ounce), 4/0 (¼- and also try mooching with them. BF50 models also include a new on the Fishewear array of items including both their ⅜-ounce) and 7/0 (⅜- and ½-ounce). They come two per freshwater water flushing hose on pack in five color patterns: Chartreuse Ice, Gaga, Smokin’ the water jacket cover, have reduced regular and new fleece neck tube, leggings and tote. Ghost, Smelt and Tru Blue. Think shallow-water rockfish, engine vibration at idling compared lingcod, coho and halibut in the salt. Or lake trout, burbot, with the previous models, and Safety northerns, rainbows, sheefish and char in freshwater. of Life at Sea (SOLAS) certification.

February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 13 Sure, there’s still some good ice fishing this time of year, but it’s also time to plan for the upcoming season. Before you know it, the ice will be gone and the hustle-and-bustle of spring will be here. These highlights will help you make the most of trip-planning season in Alaska. February Highlights: We’re gearing up for the 2019 Anchorage Boat Show at the Dena’ina Center, February 15th–17th, and will be featuring some of our favorite vendors and a special Boat Show Subscription Special. We’re live with the all-new 2019 Alaska Boat Review ( formerly known as the Virtual Boat Show) on our website! Find the best boats for Alaska’s waters and learn about the best watercraft & accessories for use in Alaska. We’re spotlighting more of the Destinations section of our site this month! We’re featuring the Kenai River, Kodiak Island, Seward, Valdez, and more! Kick off 2019 with a treasure trove of past- and present articles, recommended services, and more for these Alaska fishing destinations. Don’t forget to head over to Hunt Alaska’s site to enter the 2019 Leupold Optics Contest! Submit photos of your Alaskan hunt featuring Leupold Optics and you can be entered to win! Prizes include a pair of Leupold BX-5 Santiam HD 10 x 42 mm binoculars for the Overall Winner, and the Photo Contest Winner will receive a Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10 x 40 mm scope! Both winners will also receive a lifetime subscription to Hunt Alaska. With issues covering all aspects of Alaska sportfishing, our staff has compiled an unparalleled amount of information and experience traversing the state and testing its waters; that’s why we offer our online trip planning service! It’s free, just click the Plan a Trip tab on our website.

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14 FishAlaskaMagazine.com February 2019 February 2019 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 15 Landon Boyda with a rainbow he caught in Sand Lake in September 2018.

Kanoa and Ka‘eo Wong caught some pinks in Hope to can and send to their Grampy in Kea‘au, HI. Fly fisherman Bryan Boyce of Blackfoot, Idaho, says fighting silvers and sockeye Andy Tallman on 8- and 10-weight rods was a “dream.” with his halibut He caught this silver on the first night of catch out his first trip to Alaska while fishing Prince of Homer of Wales Island. The Gorham family pose with their halibut in June haul on a sunny Seward day. 2018. Karen Todd strong arms a pair of winter kings in Kachemak Bay in November 2018.

Joe and Lelan Thomas with Sara and Jude Garcia with a bright Hans Hovland with his Valdez Lelan’s biggest silver of 2018 yelloweye rockfish while fishing out Fish Derbies halibut entry. on the Kenai River. of Valdez.

Larry Peet sent in this photo of his late brother Earle with an armload of Kenai reds, fulfilling the last item on his bucket list.

Brooklyn Hector, 11, of Soldotna, with her first silver salmon from the Kenai.

Walt Bono snapped this photo of grandson Jack Gilnack with their Kenai River reds in July 2018. Sawyer Milam of Rocklin, CA, The mouth of a In slow channels, you’ll have lots of options. Casting hardware from caught this beautiful high- slow-water slough, shore is a good bet and, as long as there is some current, drifting bait High-water Kings water king while backtrolling where it meets under bobbers will work too. I love running wobbling plugs from a Story & photos by JD Richey a plug 20 feet off the bank. the main river, is a boat through these zones too. I’ll typically use big lures like Brad’s great high-water KillerFish 16’s, Hawg Nose Flatfish and T-60 Flatfish—the larger Good news! The first king salmon of the year will start salmon spot! profiles help to catch the often-slower currents in these spots. The poking their noses into freshwater in less than 90 days. bites are ferocious and it’s so exciting to see the placid surface of a Early-season river conditions can vary widely from low small slough erupt with the explosion of a hot king! and clear to high and off-color, and to be successful, you need to be able to deal with whatever Mother General Rules Nature throws your way. Guiding in Southwest, I There are some basic rules of thumb to keep in mind when fishing dealt with very low water conditions in 2017 and then for salmon in high water. One is the more off-color the water, the found the rivers to be huge and outside their banks in larger and brighter your offerings should be. Fluorescent oranges and 2018. You just never know! chartreuse are good choices for things like plugs, spinners and Spin- Over the course of the next two issues, let’s look at N-Glos, etc. When visibility is limited, make sure the fish have a good how to successfully fish these two extremes, starting chance at seeing your gear. this time around with high water. Another important concept to understand is the fact that rivers Okay, first a warning about fishing high water: Be drop and clear from top to bottom. In other words, after a big rain careful out there! Fast currents and cold water can be or melt, the uppermost parts of a river will become fishable first, dangerous, so pay attention, wear your life jacket and followed by the middle sections and, finally, the lower end. You can make sure, if wading, to cinch your belt tight. use that to your advantage: If the stretch you normally like to fish is not tight to the shore. Trees, rocks and brush all provide breaks in the current by under bobbers just a few feet out from the bank in high flows. too high and muddy, head upriver until you find the right water. Of Big Water the bank and that’s where you’ll find the fish. Furthermore, there tends to be less Boat anglers will also need to keep their gear tight to shore. course, on long drainages that isn’t always doable, but it certainly helps When flows are up, it can mess with your mind. silt in the shallows along shore, so the salmon will gravitate to those margins when Under these conditions, I’ll usually backtroll sardine-wrapped you on shorter rivers. Looking out at vast expanses of flowing water, you can the sediment levels are high. plugs like the Yakima Bait Company Mag Lip in the 5.0 size. Armed with these basics, you should be able to reliably catch kings easily get into the “needle in a haystack” frame of mind. You can further narrow down the search for fish by working the insides of Eggs and shrimp behind a Brad’s Bait Diver also work well in high in high water. Next month, we’ll take a look at targeting them when The big secret to this scenario, however, is that you can bends. The current typically has less velocity in those areas and you’ll often find water. Since the edges can be shallow, keep an eye on the depth so the flows are low and clear. eliminate up to 95 percent of the water. Though a river migrating salmon in surprisingly shallow water. you don’t grind your kicker prop in the gravel. may look incredibly intimidating when it’s running When bank fishing, you’ll want to keep your casts very short as the fish will In addition to the near-shore margins, you’ll also find big-water high, most of the fish are going to be concentrated in often be literally right at your feet. It can be hard to get a proper swing with lures kings in slow side channels and sloughs. Again, the salmon will do the very narrow margins close to the bank. The fish like spinners and spoons with the fish in so close, so I like to target high-water their best to conserve energy and find the path of least resistance. JD Richey is a full-time fishing guide in Alaska and California and is don’t want to fight the heavy flows out towards the kings with floats. That way, I can run my gear right down the lane the fish are Sometimes, these spots will be ones that are high and dry during also a contributing editor to Fish Alaska. He can be reached through his center, so you can disregard just about anywhere that’s traveling. Last season, I did really well with cured eggs and 20 mm BnR soft beads normal flows. website, fishwithjd.com.

18 FishAlaskaMagazine.com February 2019 February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 19 Materials: Hook: Daiichi 2220 size 6 to12 Step 6: Move the thread forward, slightly Pat’s Rubber Leg Lead Wire: .015 to .030 less than the width of the chenille. Using Originator: Pat Bennett Antennae, Legs & Tails: Super Floss, Flex Floss or any rubber leg another two-inch piece of rubber leg, Body: Variegated or standard chenille. This version is tied repeat the procedure from Step 5 to tie When it comes to stoneflies, there are a lot of different types and styles with a black/coffee variegated chenille in the second set of legs. you can tie. A while back we showed you a more elaborate stone using Thread: Veevus 8/0 fancy thorax backs. In this article we are going to show you a super simple but EXTREMELY deadly version. The Pat’s Rubber Leg stone is one of the most effective stoneflies out there, one of the most popular stones amongst guides around the world. One thing that makes this fly so lethal is the use of Super Floss legs, however, in this tutorial we are not using Super Floss legs due to not having the color that I wanted for the pattern. I do believe the movement of the legs is a key piece in the success of this pattern. You can fish this fly under an indicator, dropped off the back of a Step 7: After Steps 5 & 6, the next set of streamer or just fished on its own. You can also tie this in a wide variety Step 3: Cut two pieces of the legs approximately three inches legs should be right at the front of the of color combinations; the sky is the limit on this pattern. Enjoy! long, leaving approximately half the shank length of rubber lead wire. Repeat the procedure from legs out the front to simulate antennae. Tie down the legs on Step 5 again to tie in this third set of legs. top of the shank all the way back to just above the barb of the hook. Trim the back legs to approximately half the shank length Mike Brown is the owner of Mossy’s Fly Shop in Anchorage, AK. A lifelong to simulate tails. Alaskan with a passion for family, fly fishing and fly tying.

Finished Fly; Pat’s Rubber Leg

Step 8: Wrap the chenille forward, making each wrap nice and snug to one another.

Step 4: Strip a little of the chenille off the core, leaving just the rope exposed, and tie onto the shank. This will allow for a smooth body and no hump when you start wrapping.

Step 9: Using the other hand to move the legs around, continue to wrap the body forward, weaving through the legs. Tie off the chenille, trim & whip finish. You can now manipulate the legs to even them up. Step 1: Wrap the shank of the hook Don’t pull too hard on the legs; you don’t with approximately 20 turns of lead. want to tear them apart. Center the lead on the shank. Step 5: Bring the thread up to the middle of the shank. Take a two- inch piece of the rubber leg, hold it at a 45-degree angle. Put a wrap over it, then put a second wrap directly on top of the first wrap. Then Step 10: Gently pull the legs up Step 2: Starting at the front of the hook, tie down the go to the opposite without stretching them, and cut the lead. Make a few passes back and forth over the lead, side and do the same thing. This will create an X wrap which legs approximately half the length of securing it from moving. will help the legs stay straight. the shank.

February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 21 of the experience, but it’s so much more than that,” said Nick Olzenak. “Families The 2019 Anchorage Boat Show Preview— in Alaska buy a boat so they can make Outfitting Your Ultimate Boat an investment towards spending time By Troy Buzalsky together.” Alaskans make boating their lifestyle and that’s one of the primary During winter, as avid reasons AMDS partners with KingFisher boaters and fishing Boats. “They get it,” said Nick, “they build enthusiasts, we often boats that offer ample comfort for families use this time of the who spend extended time together on year to better prepare the water.” One of the biggest draws to for our upcoming the show this year will be the first-ever season. Whether we are in Alaska KingFisher 31-Foot GFX. A winterizing our boat, new addition to the KingFisher fleet, the doing that long overdue 3125 GFX epitomizes the best in family winter project, tying up boat ownership. A plentiful rear deck, new leaders and gear, and ample comfortable seating and head cleaning our rods and room in the cabin are just the start of the reels, or strategizing for features. Stop by the AMDS booth at the the season that is on the show to tour the GFX or the popular 2725 horizon . . . one way or Offshore they are bringing up just for the another, we are looking show. Talk with Nick or Geoff or one of forward to the sport we the crew. “When you buy a boat from us,” so enjoy. said Nick, “It’s a big commitment and we For many the annual get that, we will be here working directly Anchorage Boat Show is a with you to make your boat-ownership much-anticipated event. The KingFisher 3125 GFX Offshore is a new addition experience the best it can be.” The excitement is fueled to the KingFisher lineup. Come tour the first one in Another line that AMDS feels proud to by what’s new, what’s Alaska at The Anchorage Boat Show. © KingFisher ally with is Northwest Marine Industries innovative, and what’s Boats. Bottom photo: These sleek Sea Sport 2600 who craft the Sea Sport and C-Dory on this year’s “must have” Series boats are like mini yachts. © Sea Sport. Find pilothouse-style boats. “They are rich in list. The show includes both these boats within the AMDS display. their history in the Pacific Northwest,” the “who’s who,” the said Nick, “they understand that family “tried-and-true,” and the “who’s new.” It’s a one-stop shop to get connected with Alaska’s value too.” Fiberglass boats have the marine industry professionals. advantage of warmth and elegance, plus The boat show is much more than a day of strolling around the event center; it’s they utilize every bit of space to the a day to let your mind go wild, to dream and explore. And in some cases, make that maximum potential. “These boats are like decision that you’ve been yearning for, whether it’s buying that new boat, repowering miniature yachts,” said Nick, “They are an existing boat, or outfitting your ultimate boat, which is the tag line for the 2019 clean, precise, and extremely well-thought Anchorage Boat Show. out.” Come to The Anchorage Boat Show Mark your calendar for February 15, 16, and 17 of 2019, because this year’s Anchorage to tour the C-Dory 25-foot Tomcat or the Boat Show promises to be bigger and better than ever. It will be located for the third Sea Sport 2600. year in a row at the Dena`ina Civic and Convention Center in the heart of Anchorage. Alaska Mining & Diving will also Showcasing over 100 boats as well as boating vendors and true craftsmen of the trade, feature the tried-and-true Honda the show will occupy over 47,000 square feet of floor space, and this year the show will outboards, with their appropriate slogan push into the lobby demonstrating an increase in vendors. The venue is family friendly “The Honda of Outboards.” There is just and handicap accessible. no competition when it comes to simple Last year more than 5,000 boating enthusiasts visited the boat show, but because of reliability. Everyone knows how reliable a the nature of the show that takes its visiting guests into the various booths and aboard Honda motor is. Imagine what it could be the plethora of display boats, you will never experience a crowded feeling. like if you had engine failure on the open There are more than 50,000 registered boat owners in the state of Alaska soit’s ocean in Alaska. With Honda outboards easy to see why the Anchorage Boat Show is a true boating pilgrimage. The show is the likeihood of that happening decreases dedicated to promoting boating and safety while bringing the region’s consumer and drastically. commercial marine industry together for an extended weekend full of activities. This A couple years ago AMDS was year the show has added The Craft Fair to further showcase everything Alaska offers. privileged to pick up the Suzuki outboard Event sponsors include Spot On Marketing, Alaska USA Federal Credit Union, and line as well. They actually provide similar Fish Alaska magazine. reliability that Alaskans must have in If you’re considering a boat purchase, repowering your vessel, or just buying the their outboards, but their advancement equipment you’ve always dreamed of adding to your boat, this is your once-a-year chance in technology is off the charts. They are to take advantage of true boat-show pricing. Many vendors will guarantee best prices, leaders in the market having introduced and you will find items that are rarely discounted like fishing reels, shrimp pots, buoys, the DF350A with their innovative dual and even outboard motors at bargain prices. To further put you in the buying spirit, prop technology, electronic funnels Alaska USA Federal Credit Union will be on hand, offering best-of-the-year interest and shift control, plus their forward- rates for new boats, used boats, or even repowering your current vessel. thinking gauges. “It’s mind-boggling At Alaska Mining and Diving, they feel an emotional tie to boating. “Fishing is part advancements,” said Nick. Stop and see the guys at AMDS during the boat show and they’ll show you the advantage. If you’re interested in charter fishing for halibut, or possibly renting a boat to fully explore Prince William Sound, Whittier Marine Charters and Whittier Boat Rentals will be standing by to answer all your questions, so bring your calendar, because Captain Matt Kopec is in high demand, and you don’t want to miss booking that trip of a lifetime. These folks run one of our favorite charter and boat

Whittier Marine Charters provide full- service day trips into Prince WIlliam Sound, overnights and some lodge- based excursions. They also rent some seaworthy boats making a couple trips out a year split among a group of friends one of the most affordable options for occasional boating. rentals in Southcentral. In some cases, you have a boat and you are after accessories, so here’s your chance to outfit your ultimate boat. The Anchorage branch of LFS Marine and Outdoor, formerly LFS Donalson’s, will have shrimp pots and crab pots aplenty, available for easy take home. They’ll also have pot pullers, anchors and anchor lines,

Now settled into their new location on B Street, LFS will be at the show with special pricing.

24 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com February 2019 buoys, and safety supplies on display and readily available. If you don’t see exactly what you’re after you can also be introduced to their online store at lfsmarineoutdoor.com. Boating safety is a hallmark of the Anchorage Boat Show and Sea Tow Southcentral Alaska is a first responder insurance policy. Sea Tow is a membership-based service that provides 24/7, on-the-water assistance to boaters in need. Its members are covered if they need a tow, fuel delivery, jump start, disentanglement (a line tangled in the propeller), or an un-grounding from a sandbar or shallow area. Sea Tow Southcentral offers assistance in Homer, Whittier, Seward, and Valdez, and is an extra level of insurance boaters can count on. Look for their eye-popping

yellow and black booth. The Homer Marine Trades Association (HMTA) will be present in force, showcasing the many puzzle pieces that help make Homer’s marine industry thrive year ‘round. Sharing space with the HMTA Above: NOMAR of Homer are the upholstery experts includes the Homer Chamber of Commerce, which will be selling raffle and makers of high-quality marine and outdoor tickets for a 24-foot Bay Weld skiff. If you are feeling lucky, this might accessories like the Boat Bag, Gun Scabbard, and custom boat side- and back curtains. © NOMAR. just be your chance of a lifetime to own a Bay Weld boat. Raffle tickets Above right: Look for the raffle being promoted at are $40 each and you could win a $75,000 aluminum ocean skiff by the show. You could win a 24-foot Bay Weld skiff! Bay Weld. Proceeds go towards economic development for businesses © Homer Chamber of Commerce. in the Homer area. NOMAR has been doing business in Alaska for 40 years, quietly Sea Tow Southcentral provides on-the-water assistance to Alaska Raft & Kayak sells Inmar inflatables, Hobie kayaks, AIRE Captain Trey Hill from Sea Tow members in Homer, Whittier, Seward, and Valdez. and NRS inflatables and more to meet an array of needs. Southcentral to the rescue. the water. so mark your calendar for February 15, 16, and 17 . . . that’s building high-quality products. NOMAR This year’s boat show is not only designed for boating enthusiasts, right, the day after Valentine’s Day. Think of it this way: Spend will have their booths stocked with many but also as a family-friendly event. Activities include gold panning, February 14 with the love of your life, and on February 15th, of their popular products, including their free lifejackets for children, and wildlife presentations. In addition, 16th and/or 17th visit the boat show . . . your other great love . . boat bags, their smaller skiff bags, mesh Alaskan cartoonist Chad Carpenter from Tundra Comic Strip will . the love for boating and the great outdoors. go-bags, and their waterproof floating gun be on site cartooning away. There will be good food, daily how-to cases made for shotguns or rifles. These are seminars, and multiple booths that are part of The Craft Fair at truly products that a boat owner would the Anchorage Boat Show. want, and they are products that are built The Alaska State Troopers will also be well represented with Troy Buzalsky serves as a Battalion Chief with Longview Fire. When to last a lifetime. Don’t forget to check out recruitment specialists talking about a career with AST. They not working, Troy can be found boating, fishing, and photographing their boat-upholstery work, it exemplifies will have a marked Sea-Doo personal watercraft on display, and all around the Pacific Northwest, including the state of Alaska. Troy their excellence. wildlife troopers presenting on boater safety as well. is the Boats columnist for Fish Alaska and writes feature stories based Bay Weld Boats will be showing off two The 2019 Anchorage Boat Show is slated to be a great show, on his Alaska adventures. He can be reached at [email protected]. newly built V-berth recreational boats: a 33-foot all-welded catamaran and a 32-foot mono hull. If you have never looked at a Bay Weld boat up close and in person here’s your chance to climb aboard and look, touch, and feel until your heart’s content. Maybe you’re looking for a more affordable way to approach the saltwater or a dinghy for your big boat. Maybe it’s river fishing that holds your interest. Either way stop by the Alaska Raft & Kayak display to talk with owner Mark Cohen. They are Anchorage’s purveyor of inflatables by Inmar, NRS and Aire and angling kayaks by Hobie and provide a variety of solutions aimed at effieiency on

The 2019 Anchorage Boat Show is Feb 15-17 at the Dena`ina Center. Like The Anchorage Boat Show on Facebook for show updates and marine industry news. February Is What Keeps July Running Story and photos by Terry W. Sheely

If it wasn’t for February fritterings, my compartments for different July would be in pretty sad shape. sizes of terminal tackle: February is cold, dark, saltwater fishless snap swivels, barrel swivels, and boring. The perfect definition for a chain swivels, split rings, month of fish-boat tinkering and tackle sliders, beads. Another fiddling that smooths out summer tray, heavy duty, with when there’s no time for anything but tapered rows for securing summering. All those gonna-dos, one- round lead weights from of-these-days, get-round-to-it projects two- to 20 ounces, in that we’re all too busy fishing to tackle in order. Another box for July—are the only reason that February crescents. exists. And they’re the best excuse I’ve Replace the grooved found for disappearing into the boat barn, tip-tops and squashed aka garage, for hours at a time while I’m guides on the salmon- and recuperating from post-Super Bowl end- bottomfish rods and take of-football blues. the time to layer on an Anyone who looks through the frosted extra coat of varnish, just window, stares into dawn-to-dusk dark, cuz. Sorta fun until the and says, “I’m bored,” has never crawled tedium sets in. under the dash on the fish boat with a Rebuild the terminal pair of wire cutters in one hand, a new connectors on the electronic in the other and headlamp downriggers—you know shadows lighting the way. you’ve been meaning to February is for fiddling, messing do that. It may not be as around, piddling, tinkering and installing exciting as hearing a loud blue LED lights along the gunwales. snap and watching 50 February is for putting fresh line on old buck’s worth of weights, reels and for remembering that if the line wire and sleeves plunge July success depends in part spool is dropped into a bucket of water it into the abyss but it’s upon February fiddling, tinkering, maintaining and piddling. will unroll evenly, under tension and not action enough for explode in a snarled spool of loops and February. While you’re knots and you don’t need the neighbor at it, get another plastic box full of of the fun I’ve had pushing a stiff line to hold a pencil through the line spool. segregated compartments and fill it with toward the boat ramp, but I’ve learned to February is to remind yourself how to tie downrigger parts: sleeves, connectors, line live without that much fun. And it should an arbor knot to attach the fresh line to stops, spacers. Glue a sheath to the top of be paid off by the time I need money to the reel spool (wrap the line around the the box and stick in a pair of wire/cable buy herring. arbor and tie both sides together with an cutters. If you tire of tinkering, move on to overhand knot six inches up the line, then Grab the drill, a couple of self-threading checking. a second overhand knot on the bitter end screws and mount a tool caddy on the Check the fire extinguisher before the and pull both knots together and snug gunwale or console within easy reach and Coast Guard does it for you, check the tight around the arbor.) pack it with needle-nose pliers, hook-out, bilge pump to see if it’s started bilging Which should remind you to learn the knife, hook file and line snipper. again on its own or still needs to be Universal Knot (aka Uni Knot) system, Take a look at the rod holders. If replaced. Check the flare gun—are you by far the easiest- and most-versatile knot they’re metal, check the screws for rust; really sure it still goes off and the flares system known to man. It connects hooks if they’re not, check for UV sun rot. go boom? Check the lights. All of them. to leaders, joins two lines, builds shock Nothing screws up a good fishing day like Check—no, just replace—the main leaders, ties mono to braid, snells and the sound of a rod holder crackin’ and fuel filter, spark plugs and then fog a bunch more. The basic Uni Knot will throwing $300 worth of coveted gear into the cylinders to lubricate the walls and handle just about every knot a saltwater the abyss. (Hopefully, if it happens you’ll pistons (if you didn’t last fall, like you angler needs and it can be learned in an still be connected to the downrigger, but should have), then spray the inside of evening while sitting in front of a single why take a chance.) Might also be a good the cowling with a corrosion block. And episode of Alaska: The Last Frontier. The time to install more rod holders (the guys make sure you disconnected the fuel line how-to is on the web. February is for that in the front of the boat like to fish too) and ran the motor out of fuel to prevent tedious work: shopping for the perfect or rocket launchers for transporting rods. fuel deposits. And for Pete’s sake if you plastic box with multiple compartments February is a good time to install that didn’t flush the saltwater out of the motor shaped just right to accommodate second battery and the charging system. with freshwater in October, go ahead and just what you need. One box with Sure, a second battery may get in the way do it now. Better late than seized. Here’s February is a good time to clean up and organize items like these so they are ready to be put to use as soon as spring arrives. a grief saver: four- or six times a winter, turn the steering wheel moving the motor (or outdrive) back and forth several times. If there’s oil and petroleum crap on the steering arm, left undisturbed it can solidify when not used, locking the motor in an awkward position. Believe me, when you can’t make a right turn it complicates docking. The last time this happened to somebody really close to me, I had a grease zerk installed in the steering fittings so I don’t have to worry about oil on the arm. But I still turn it several times a winter, twice in February and keep the $386 in my herring fund instead of sharing it with the marine mechanic. If all this starts to feel like maintenance then go back to fiddling and fussing. You can still tie up a bunch of fluorocarbon mooching leaders on several size hooks and store them—in order of sizes—on a foam board, organize the bottles of scent, oil and come-hither slathers in a plastic tray and drill holes in the bottom so spills ooze out instead of pooling in goo. Wire in a DC-to-AC plug-in receptacle that will accommodate a strong spot light, computer, radio, or radar detector. Sorry, the RD goes in the fish truck. February is the one month of the year when you can install all of the new toys on the boat, rewire the pre-fire wiring, puzzle over problems without the stress of a deadline, and figure out all the bells and whistles on the new HD, bottom- contouring, mapping, interfacing, heat- sensing, GPSing, echoing, sonaring, fish- finding depth sounder. What other month can do all that!

Terry W. Sheely is a contributing editor for Fish Alaska magazine and can be reached through his website at tnscommunications.net. the tube around to face the point. I decided to change flies, as I Until I’d arrived at the point, it seemed like there were no fish in often catch fish in the fall on small flies. I switched to a size 12, the lake. Once I got to the edge of the shoal where it dropped from A good omen. Kenai Peninsula Stillwater maroon micro leech. I made a 35-foot cast towards the point and four- or five feet to as much as 12 feet, the fishing was consistently Story and photos by George Krumm planned to count the fly down for 10 seconds or so to let it sink good. Almost unbelievable, really. Surprising at the very least. I a few feet in the water column. I figured the water was probably ended up catching maybe 15 fish in about 2½ hours. The rainbows It was mid-September several years ago. Birch and cottonwood four- or five feet deep where the fly landed. I didn’t get to10 ranged in size from about 15 inches to as big as 23 inches. I knew leaves were a mixture of dark green and flaming yellow, the seconds, though—the line came tight and a fine rainbow erupted there should be good fish in this lake, but I didn’t think the quality evening air was crisp and clean, and the little lake was slightly from the water . . . would be quite as good as it was. I was, however, surprised I didn’t rippled under mostly overcast skies. A rainbow reached down catch any smaller fish. from the heavens, seeming to land atop a million-dollar home When people think of the Kenai Peninsula, the lakes are typically As the light faded, so did the bite. I slowly paddled back towards across the lake. No one was fishing, and during a few moments an afterthought—unseen; overlooked; secluded; unknown; the access, watching the ragged silhouette of the tops of black of observation no fish revealed themselves. perhaps undesired as anglers pursue sockeye, coho, kings and spruce as they merged with the violet, twilight sky. I marveled, as I I was on a business trip to Kenai, and I planned to fish this halibut. But as with the stillwater fisheries I pursue in the Mat- often do, at the quality of Alaska’s underutilized stillwater fishing. lake after work. I’d done some research on lakes in the area and Su Valley, Kenai Peninsula lakes are productive, and it is not No one else fished the lake that night—I had it to myself as is often was convinced there should be some decent fish present in this uncommon to have several age classes of fish swimming the lakes. the case. I pondered about the hordes of people that flock to the one based on what I found on ADF&G’s website. This proved The lakes are consistent, not subject to flooding, allocation battles, Kenai Peninsula to pursue halibut, sockeye, kings, silvers, rainbows to be true. poor runs or last-minute regulation changes that can thwart the and dollies, and how they seem to overlook the lakes. For the love Having never fished the lake before, I studied the bathymetric best-laid plans. Want some solitude? Take your canoe, float tube of pure fishing, and of solitude, Alaska’s lakes can be hard to beat. map (see the Alaska Lake Database for bathymetric maps) and or pontoon boat to one of the many lakes on the Peninsula and planned to start fishing near a point across from the access you’ll probably find it, along with good fishing. George Krumm is the Editor of Fish Alaska and Hunt Alaska point. The water near the point dropped off to 15 feet fairly According to ADF&G’s Statewide Stocking Plan, 29 Kenai magazines. He can be reached at [email protected]. quickly, and around the other side of the point a wide, shallow Peninsula lakes will be stocked in 2019. Fish species stocked shoal promised the chance of potamogeton weed beds. I include rainbow trout, Arctic grayling, Arctic char and coho assumed any feeding fish would be either up on the shoal, salmon. Not all species are stocked in all lakes, though. Refer to or along the edge of it where it dropped into deeper water. the Statewide Stocking Plan for specifics. I trolled across the lake dragging a ‘bugger along behind my There are also numerous lakes managed for wild-fish populations float tube. Nothing hit the ‘bugger en route. on the Kenai. The ADF&G website lists a dozen wild lakes; there When I approached the point, I saw the depth on my fish are actually more than listed on their site. What’s more, there are finder begin to shallow up. When I hit 12 feet of water, I spun many lakes that were once stocked, but aren’t any longer. Check out the Alaska Lake Database to learn more about these possibilities. It may take some research, but some of these lakes likely have very good fishing, and some probably have very poor fishing. The lakes of the Kenai Peninsula vary quite a bit in altitude and habitat. For instance, many lowland lakes are shallow, sometimes weedy and relatively small. Others are located in more alpine surroundings, such as the lakes around Turnagain and Moose passes. The high lakes tend to be more scenic, but bigger fish are sometimes found in the lower-elevation lakes due to their longer growing seasons and more productive water quality. With a little research and planning, an energetic angler could catch rainbows, Arctic char, grayling and Not a scale out of place, with both eyes and both mandibles; landlocked coho on the same day, though the a prime, healthy rainbow released back into the lake angler would have to go to more than one lake to mentioned in the story. make it happen. Davis Weiner has the right attitude knowing that just being out here is great. That’s when the fish gods most commonly smile on you.

“Just being here is great. One king would be good, two would be awesome, five would be epic, 10 beyond epic and 15 . . . unspeakable!” D’s attitude was a breath of fresh air compared to my normal traveling companions obsessed with how many and how big. Davis is my eight-year-old son; he’s mellow, low-maintenance, fun to fish with and generally pretty reserved. Our goal was to enjoy some one-on-one father-and-son time while fishing with good friends, really more like extended family, with Mike and Angela Addiego at Bristol Bay Adventures. As usual we had a great time. It’s the little things that really stand out to me. Mike taking the time and having the patience to show Davis how to net a king. Coaching my boy with positive support and helping him learn how to battle big, strong fish. Teaching him how to bleed a king salmon and continuing to recognize that Davis is easy-going, rarely complains and keeps himself busy when fishing is slow. He also liked that Davis is the type of kid that rolls up his sleeves and gets his hands dirty like the adults and is right there to pitch in and help out. Angela, of course, spoiled Davis with delicious home-cooked meals catered to his tastes. Davis loves Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and Mike mentioned that his Dad used to make him pancakes with a cup in the middle. The next morning Angela had a plateful of those cakes ready for D’s breakfast. After many years of running Bristol Bay Adventures, Mike and Angela have downsized and prefer to take long-time repeat clients, friends and family. They sure made us feel like friends and family. Situated on the high bank a little ways downstream from Portage Creek,

In the downtime between fishing sessions, Davis liked to read and draw. © Illustration by Davis Weiner.

Bristol Bay Adventures owner Mike Addiego positively coaches Davis while he works to land a Nushagak king.

Top Left: Bailey Anderson with a nice king on the Nushagak last June. © Melissa Norris. Bottom Left: Melissa Norris loves fishing for and eating king salmon and can’t think of a better place to fish kings than the Nush. © Bailey Anderson. Top: Sunrise on the Nushagak—a little slice of Heaven. © Pete von Jess. Top Right: Tom von Jess with a chrome Nush Chinook. © Nushagak River Adventures. Bottom right: Nushagak River Adentures is one of three permanent camps on the Nushagak. © Nushagak River Adventures. 36 FishAlaskaMagazine.com February 2019 February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 37 should feel the weight bouncing along a snap and pencil lead. Some may choose to use a dropper on Fish Alaska’s Publisher Davis got the hang of king salmon fishing the bottom as the boat slips downstream. the lead. For leader, 30- to 50-pound fluorocarbon is my choice. right away. He is a quick study. couldn’t be prouder of The boat driver is busy shifting between Chinook run tight to the bottom, so a short leader of two- to Davis and looks forward forward, neutral and reverse, with three feet is a good start. Some people use attractors like Spin N’ to taking his twins at minimal throttle, to keep the boat Glos, Bling Wings, Smile Blades, corkies and beads to give your some point to close the positioned perpendicular to the current. bait a little lift and added attraction. At the business end, tie on circle on his four boys With the boat moving downstream at a 5/0 octopus hook with an egg loop. catching Nush kings. such a rapid pace, the only two things In all my trips to this famed river, I’d never seen the Nushagak that stop the bait from moving are a bite this high. Constant weather fronts had dumped rain and the and a snag. If it’s a snag, then line will river was ripping. This served to increase the speed and strength begin peeling off the reel like mad. If it’s of each king. Over and over again during four days of fishing, a bite, the rod usually feels spongy and each fish fought harder than the same size fish in prior years. All pumps, especially if the fish is moving that water propelled the salmon faster, and gave the anglers more with you downstream. Once it turns and of a challenge and reward. And almost every time we thought moves away from you then it’s bent rod the fish we were fighting were bigger than they ended up being. and game-on as usual. We typically fish runs within a few miles downstream and Eight- to nine-foot rods in the 15- to about five miles upstream of the lodge. Chinook move in with 30-pound class with matching baitcasting the tide and about 12 hours after high tide, we expect to find reels are the norm. I prefer a rod with a kings in front of the lodge. The goal is to find fish and stay on strong butt, but with enough mid- and them. During one stretch, we hooked Chinook in seven straight tip-flex so that the rod can absorb some drifts in the lodge run. When the bite turns off, especially if of the impact from savage strikes which boats around you aren’t catching fish, then it’s time to head will help reduce hook pulls. Pick your upstream and locate them. Certain runs hold fish more than Bristol Bay Adventures is one of a few allows the angler to cast the rod, feel the brand preference. others and these are good ones to target when the bite dies in the lodges who have permanent structures bite and set the hook. You might catch For main line, while I prefer braid, I usual traveling water. and own the land. Most lease land from more fish backtrolling plugs, roe or can also understand that braid can be After a 10-fish morning on day four, we only needed two more the local native corporation and erect spoons, or down-trolling spinners, but unforgiving and when an angler gets salmon to hit Davis’ ultimate goal of 50. We decided to rest an temporary tent camps for the Chinook to me they are not as fun or interactive as hung, then leaving a wad of braid in extra hour after lunch and head back out at four. For the most season, which usually runs from mid- boondogging. For those that don’t know the river is worse than leaving a wad of part, the afternoon bite had been better than the morning sessions, June through mid-July. the technique, motor to the top of the monofilament. Either way, connect your so we thought, no problem, piece of cake to land two more. Our preferred Nushagak Chinook run and turn the boat perpendicular to mainline to a three-way swivel; to one Well you can see where this is going. The afternoon started technique is to boondogg using roe. It the current. Anglers cast upstream and end connect your leader and the other slowly. I hooked one on the third drift but it came unbuttoned. Bites were half-hearted. Moving locations, I hooked another and it came undone. We continued to get nibbles, pecks and the occasional good bite, but the kings remained elusive. Just goes to show you that fishing is a constantly- changing activity. With 30 minutes left on the final day, I finally connected with a chrome-bright, hard-pulling buck. One more to go. A few drifts later and it was time to wrap up. Davis quietly implored Mike to give us one more drift. And as if on cue, midway though the drift in front of the lodge, I connected with our final salmon. I can’t say I’m surprised, that’s how we do it Fish Alaska style. My oldest son Charlie was supposed to be on this trip. He made the little league all-star team, so Davis and I wished him luck and set off without him. I had been seriously looking forward to spending time with both boys on the river, but in hindsight, it was a great thing that Davis and I got to spend one-on-one time together. He was a joy to travel with, open to the new experiences, never complained and kept himself occupied. If you haven’t had a one-on-one fishing trip with each of your children, I strongly recommend you do so soon. And what better place than with my friends Mike and Angela Addiego at Bristol Bay Adventures fishing for Chinook on the Nushagak.

Marcus Weiner is Co-Founder and Publisher of Fish Alaska Davis was a champ and, and Hunt Alaska magazines. Two of his sons have now landed with the right gear, was kings on the Nushagak with two more to go. He looks forward able to hang in the rain. to the days when the four boys can pack for him on big game hunts and net his Chinook on rivers like the Nushagak. Float trips in Southcentral on rivers like air-taxi provider way in advance what the Sample Float Trip Packing List the Gulkana or Lake Creek can be done in weight restrictions will be. Our goal is to three- or four days. Be honest with yourself. fit our equipment into two dry bags. Be ___Raft with spare paddle & repair kit Can you handle 10 days of being in the judicious when you choose the gear that bush, most likely without a shower, sleeping you will bring. Obtain the best gear possible ___PFD in a tent and coping with Alaska’s biting for the adventure. High-quality raingear, ___Tent insects? Are you comfortable with your waders and wading boots will often be your ___Sleeping pad ability to handle camping in bear country daily garb, so be sure they are solid. Choose for days on end? If it’s your first float trip, a tent that can handle three- or four seasons ___Sleeping bag we recommend starting with something on and will keep you dry. We stress that you ___Tarp x 2 the shorter scale. need quality drybags, like the SealLine ___Fishing rods - we’ll bring two fly, Are you a skilled oarsman? Options range 115-liter Pro Portage Pack, to transport two spin/baitcast from Class I to Class IV water, so match gear. This will allow you to haul your gear your skill level to the trip. Understand what on commercial flights, keep it dry on the ___Reels obstacles, like canyons or waterfalls, lay float trip and be comfortable carrying the ___Flies and lures ahead in the river and have a plan to deal bag if you need to portage. Bring a good ___Leader and weights with them. Be prepared to stop ahead of water filter and a functioning stove. See the an obstacle and scout it out. In some rivers, sample packing list. ___Fishing tools - pliers, nail knot tool,

© Dave Fish Alaska © Dave a portage of gear and boat is necessary to nippers, polarized sunglasses navigate difficult sections. Many trips Practice packing ___Fillet knife feature Class I and Class II water which is In order to get a week’s worth of necessities ___Clothes - 3 sets, wool and synthetic ideal to bolster your rowing skills. Guided into two dry bags, it requires some practice wherever possible, base layers float trips are also an option, so if it’s your packing. Gather all of your items and and fleece first time and you are apprehensive about practice packing. Note how you put things rowing a raft, then plan on a guided float. into each bag so that you can replicate that ___Toothbrush and paste How are your wilderness skills: cooking, on the river. It’s here that you will determine ___Bug spray How to Plan a Remote Float Trip fire starting, bear safety, pitching a tent, what items make the cut and what doesn’t ___Bear spray and/or gun and By Fish Alaska magazine staff etc.? Having a fire is a nice way to end a day, based on weight and space. ammo provides one way to cook, and generally helps ___Waders and boots to deter wild animals. Portable cook stoves Be bear safe are made by many quality manufacturers Bears in Alaska are common. Most bears are ___Raingear and are very efficient. Our preferred afraid of people and will steer clear of you. ___Cook stove and fuel program is to use a cook stove to heat water There are things you can do to help decrease for coffee, oatmeal, and dehydrated meals, bear encounters. First, make lots of noise. ___Water filter while using a fire to cook fish. We also eat Second, don’t cook at your campsite in the ___Water containers peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, jerky, evening before you sleep there. We prefer to ___Satellite phone/GPS messaging and trail mix. Others prefer a more upscale stop and cook dinner, eat and continue the device like those made by Garmin approach. A quick word on bear safety and float for a bit before stopping for the night. and SPOT food: keep scents to a minimum, don’t cook We’ll cook breakfast before breaking camp. ___GPS Remote float trips are a unique way to experience wild and scenic Alaska, and target fish that at your campsite, keep a clean camp and If you are staying at a site for a number of store food in bear-proof containers. Bears days, consider hiking up or down river to ___Food—consider an itemized meal don't see too many people and are often willing to bite what an angler offers. Float trips present plan, i.e. Day 1: breakfast—instant are plentiful in Alaska and generally want to cook. Keep your campsite as odor-free as oatmeal; lunch—jerky, trail mix and the opportunity to unplug from modern society, immerse yourself in the language of the river, stay away from you, so act responsibly and possible. Consider bringing bear spray or PB&J sandwich; dinner—freeze- catch large quantities of fish, and explore Alaska—the nation's last remaining, large expanse of you’ll reduce bear issues. a firearm for bear protection and practice dried meal and fish. Day 2 . . . this real wilderness. Below are some important tips we have using them. Give any bears you see ample avoids over- or under packing food learned from many years of floating rivers. space. Some people choose to bring an ___Extra food in case you get stuck; Next, we’ve asked a range of Fish Alaska electric fence to surround their campsite. recommend two days’ worth contributors and advertisers a series of Since Alaska is so vast and filled with so many fish-filled rivers, Since anadromous fish return to Alaska’s rivers during different questions to further illuminate logistical Choose a good outfitter/air taxi ___Aluminum foil, butter and spices to cook fish options for float trips abound. Adventurers need to answer a times throughout the summer, your ability to catch a given species issues encountered with this type of For most remote float trips, you will variety of questions in order to determine their best options. In no hinges on being at the river when they have returned. Additionally, adventure and bring to you their combined require an outfitter and/or air-taxi service ___French Press (for coffee), pot to particular order, here are some important ones: run timing for species varies from river to river, as well as where expertise to make your trip planning easier. to get you to your starting point and extract boil water, bowl, fork, spoon in Alaska you plan to visit. Rivers in Southeast receive migrating your group at the takeout. Choosing these ___Hats and gloves • What is the timing for the trip? salmon sooner than rivers in Southcentral or Southwest. Fish Alaska Tips providers is the most important part of ___Lighters • Have you been on a float trip before? For example, you might target kings in early-June in Southeast, Make a list, check it twice the equation. We’ve worked with several • How many people will be in the group? mid- to late-June in Southcentral and early- to mid-July in Once you get on the river, there’s no good ones over the years and can make ___Firestarter • What species of fish do you want to target? Southwest. Another point on developing a species list: when heading to the store to pick up forgotten recommendations; just contact our office. ___Headlamp • What’s your skill level at rowing a raft? targeting certain species, the list of rivers narrows dramatically. For items. Make an equipment list, including Some to consider are Aniak Air Guides, ___Sunglasses • What’s the budget for the trip? instance, if you want to target giant sea-run char, then the streams a daily meal plan. Take some time and PaPa Bear Adventures, Trail Ridge Air, • How many days do you want to float? north of Kotzebue and north of the Brooks Range are among your then come back to the list and rethink it and Branch River Air. Most that offer float ___Camera and batteries • How much float trip gear do you own and what will you need? few choices. If it’s sheefish that you are after, then the Kobuk or through. Check it multiple times before trips will also have rafts and other camping ___Fishing License • How are your wilderness skills? Holitna make it on the list. If you are looking to catch a lot of kings settling on the items you will bring. A equipment available for rent, or can point • What’s the overall goal of the float trip? or coho, and also want good rainbow trout and Dolly action then you where to get those items. ___Medications: prescribed and caveat here: weight restrictions in small general over the counter the Togiak is a consideration. planes often require 100 pounds of gear Alaska Raft and Kayak in Anchorage is a If you have the liberty to take the trip anytime throughout the Trip length varies dramatically based on the river you choose. or less per person; sometimes much lower. good place to either purchase a raft or rent ___Loop Rope (2) or cargo net summer, then first determine the target species and trip length. Rivers in Southwest like the Kisaralik require at least 10 days. That’s usually what we target. Ask your one for a remote float trip.

February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 43 Northwest/Interior: Yukon, Wulik, over for a better look, how wide will the Adam Cuthriell, FishHound Expeditions © Aniak Air Guides Noatak, Kelly, Kobuk, Ivishak current sweep you on that turn ahead, is 1) To help ensure an amazing Alaska Southcentral: Alexander, Clear, Deshka, the current too fast to pivot the raft in time float trip folks should find rivers that are Gulkana, Lake Creek, Little Susitna, for the next obstacle? Things like that. At devoid of lodges and jet boats, the last Karluk, Moose, Talachulitna the end of the day it doesn’t matter how thing any of us want on a remote Alaska much technology you have on board, float is jet boats speeding up and down We had a chance to ask questions to you’ve still got to get it done old school, the river while you’re trying to float and some trusted float trip experts. Their by yourself. fish. Also, going with an experienced answers follow. guide service as opposed to doing a DIY is 1) What tip(s) can you offer our readers on 3) Overestimating your own wilderness way worth the additional money. Guides planning a remote float trip? skills. Each and every year the summer’s know the rivers and what channels to floaters show up a little more self-assured fish and when. With their experience 2) How do you determine the best option and confident than the year before. But for your client? working in remote settings and in severe- things like real-life skill levels, toughness, weather conditions, guides can pass on Sharing responsibilities Stop and smell the roses 3) What mistakes do you see made by float- miles per day you plan to float. When and outdoor knowledge are falling like knowledge as well as tried-and-true gear Get your group together, agree on a plan and trippers? doing research on the chosen river, try Sometimes we get manic about fishing, a rock. So, the moral of the story is take and knowledge to make the Alaska wild delegate responsibility. It’s important that and map out spots that may be productive especially in a remote river teeming with things slow, real slow, and think everything comfortable. everyone is on the same page so that there after gaining local intel. For instance, willing biters. A big part of what makes Jim Jensen, Trail Ridge Air through, twice. are no misconceptions on responsibilities. on a float trip down the Kisaralik River float trips so energizing is the ability to 1) Our best advice for floaters is know what From researching different rivers, to talking we learned that salmon and rainbow unplug from the daily grind, and to spend you are getting into. Floating a remote river with air taxis and outfitters, making a gear fishing began below the falls, which was some time in a peaceful place listening to is a lot of work and sometimes people think, list and acquiring the items needed for the 20+ miles downriver from the lake. We the sound of moving water. Remember that oh this is a good idea, but they should realize adventure, there is plenty to do and should boogied down to that spot on the first there’s a lot more to Alaska than just fish. the full effort it takes to float the river, set be shared among the group. The decision day. We also learned that there was a up camp, and break down camp multiple on what river to float and the service certain stretch of river that held prime Popular Float Trip Creeks & Rivers times. There is a lot involved. providers to use should be a group decision. rainbow-trout water. We planned to slow Southwest: Alagnak, American, This way everyone has equal share in the down during that stretch. Once we found Aniak, Anvik, Arolik, Chilikadrotna, 2) When it comes to making suggestions to decisions and outcome. This type of process king salmon, then we opted to be more Chukowan, Copper, Eek, Funnel, our float-trip clients I first find out about also ensures that all the gear is brought with flexible and spent most of a day landing Goodnews, Hoholitna, Holitna, Innoko, target species and timing. It then comes as little duplication as possible. many nice Chinook, despite an 8-mile Izavieknik, Kanektok, King Salmon, down to boating ability and cost. We always per day float plan. We made up that time Kisaralik, Kogrukluk, Koktuli, Kwethluk, want clients to make their best choice but Set a float plan but be flexible later in the trip. Having a plan and some Little Kukaklek, Moraine, Mulchatna, we can provide them with some different It’s smart to have an idea of how many flexibility can improve the overall trip. Nushagak, Salmon, Stuyahok, Tlikakila options to choose from.

3) The mistake we see most commonly is bringing too much gear. It isn’t the issue of the flight capacity weight as you may think, it’s loading your boat up too much to handle it effectively plus the time and energy to make and break camp with all that gear. We also hear about people trying to use boats that are not applicable to the water they are fishing and end up having to portage for miles.

Rob Kinkade, Aniak Air Guides 1) I’d say the #1 thing to planning is just that—plan a lot. A lot more than you think you need to. Pick everything apart and ask a lot of questions, go through every stage mentally. The world is in an instant mindset, a “drive-through” mentality nowadays. And it’s easy to think that everything can be remedied with an InReach message or sat phone call. It can’t. You have to think of “it” long before pushing the raft in the water. Plan, plan, plan.

2) After chatting and talking, I can usually get a good feel for a client’s comfort level(s). One of the main things I look for is how much river time they have. I don’t necessarily mean Colorado rapids time, but how well someone can read river water in general. Things like knowing when to pull

February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 45 2) To help determine what is the best option don’t need your gear failing. Have extra removed from the river area. None of our and you understand all the logistics between for our clients we talk with them to find food in case your pilot can’t get to you at storage cans are insulated for frozen foods dropping off and picking up. out what they are dreaming of. Are they the scheduled pickup due to weather. Have or keeping ice cold, so any coolers must dreaming of big ‘bows devouring mice your pilot fly the river to look for good be brought and must be bear-resistant 2) When choosing the best option for my patterns on the surface? Do they want to camping or possible fishing spots, as well as approved. This is essential in National clients, there are many things that I take swing flies to monster kings? Or catch silver to look for main channels in a braided river Park areas, not a regulation in other areas, into consideration. What species are they salmon on surface poppers till their arm fall or possible hazards. but recommended. Packing gear in soft after? Many rivers have the same fish species, off? These are some examples that can sway duffles or waterproof bags, is best; hard but some do not. Also, the abundance of clients from one river to another as well 2) As far as recommendations for where to containers take up too much space in one species in a particular river. This also as time of year they are trying to fish. The go or what watercraft to buy or rent from us aircraft. We have storage for gear that may determines when the best time is to hit the amount of time one wants to spend on a we first listen to the goals and expectations not be necessary on the float trip. Keeping river. Not all species head up river at the float trip is also a factor on which river may of our customers and learn about their weight down is recommended, it might same time. Timing is key! How many days be best suited for them. Some rivers can boating skills and experience. Then we are save an extra flight for heavy loads. All would you like your trip to be? Some of be floated in as little as two- to three days able to narrow down their best choices. aircraft have weight limits. Chest waders the rivers you can accomplish in four days, while other rivers require eight- to ten days are highly recommended. Have good rain and others it takes eight to ten depending because one is floating 60-100 miles. 3) The biggest mistake we see is when folks gear and four-season tents with a good rain on the size of the group. What is your skill think they know more than they do. Those fly. Stove fuel can be small propane bottles level? If this is your first time ever doing a 3) The biggest mistakes I’ve seen is not going folks tend to be stubborn too. We use the or Coleman-type fuel (white gas), both float, or behind the oars, then I will try to with either an experienced guide or at least phrase “people have two ears and one mouth available in King Salmon. Shipping gear set you up with a river that is suitable. A someone who has lots of experience running for a reason.” The other mistake we see from prior to a trip can save on excess bag fees river that is slower, and a little shorter but rivers for extended periods of time. Knowing anglers and hunters is spending too much and assure that gear will be in King Salmon which still offers world-class fishing would how much river one needs to cover a day time traveling leaving less time for the actual for your trip. be preferable in this case. that coincides with appropriate good camps fishing or hunting. and good fishing is something that one only 2) Options are determined by species of 3) One of the biggest things that I tell gets with experience, good gear, and good Van Hartley, Branch River Air Service fish desired to fish for, angler’s abilities, raft clients over and over again is preparation. navigation. 1) All the trips we offer are self guided, we experience, equipment needed or required You are coming to remote Alaska . . . make do not outfit, but can provide raft and raft for watershed, and timing for clients’ trip. sure that you come prepared. Great rain Mark Cohen, Alaska Raft and Kayak accessories essential to the raft. Raft trips gear, synthetic clothing, and trusting the 1) Make a list of supplies so you don’t forget in Bristol Bay waters are in bear country, 3) Mistakes are likely in planning, not person sitting behind you with the oars anything. Leave plenty of time to fish, add so being prepared to store food and handle bringing the right or appropriate gear. are all key. Don’t ever get out of your raft in extra time if you can. It’s better to have food properly is essential. We provide Typical arrival times should be to arrive without making sure that you have a bow too much time than not enough. Choose small eight- or 12-gallon cans as storage in King Salmon early in the day to get line in hand or someone is holding onto quality boating and camping gear. You for food and garbage. All garbage must be all gear prepared for travel and make sure the raft. Be sure to always tie your raft to appropriate gear has been packed. Pack something secure. The last thing you want all gear in dry bags and leave hard boxes to do is wake up in the morning, and not and totes in storage. Another mistake is have a raft. Always be courteous to others on spending too much time in the raft and the river and leave your camp as you found using up available fishing water. it. We all want to enjoy and share the beauty that Mother Nature offers for many years. Aaron Osantoski, Papa Bear Adventures 1) When planning a remote float trip there Dave Fish, Dave Fish Alaska are many things to consider. For many of 1. When planning a float trip in the you this may be the first time; others they Alaskan wilderness, it is important to are seasoned vets, and know exactly what to educate yourself on the water and the surrounding area. Logistics are difficult in do, and where to go. And then you have the Alaska, and any floater needs to know what once-in-a-life-timer. Either way you should they are getting into. I get lots of phone be well rounded on every trip. Determine calls from do-it-yourselfers, and after a what species it is that you are after. lengthy conversation and lots of questions, Research, research, research! Take your many decide to hire a local Alaskan guide. time choosing a river. There are many great Knowing your own ability and playing it rivers in western Alaska so take your time. safe are most important. Make sure that you are in shape, and your fellow companions are too. Ask questions. 2. I spend many hours communicating Get to know your outfitter. He will help through emails and phone calls to try and determine which river will best suit your understand the needs and wants of my clients. Operating in the Alaskan wilderness needs and wants. Don’t cheap out. Make requires Mother Nature’s cooperation. I sure that you have dependable gear. The pride myself on having many options for weather can change in an instant, and the my anglers so if we need to float a different most important thing is keeping dry, and river when the weather has turned. I can warm. Choose the right tackle. This can be still provide an excellent experience. tough. Everyone wants to bring everything plus the kitchen sink. Determine what type 3. The biggest mistake do-it-yourselfers of species it is that you are after and go from make is underestimating the power and there. You don’t need six rods, and 10,000 remoteness of Alaska’s waters. Most places flies to get the job done. Make sure that we float are only accessible by plane or you are comfortable with your outfitter, helicopter, so be prepared for anything. © FishHound Expeditions

© Papa Bear Adventures © Alaska Raft & Kayak © FishHound Expeditions

© FishHound Expeditions

© Trail Ridge Air © Pristine Ventures © Fish Alaska magazine

From some avid floaters we asked the can be extremely important, especially if John Cleveland mice patterns. And in the lower river following question. Their answers follow. 1) I will refine my menu planning to the silver salmon provided non-stop your target is an anadromous species. 1) What things have you done to improve include additional pre-prepared menu catching . . . And these fish were both When I’ve gathered all the information I your float trips? choices such as ready-to-heat and eat fresh and hot, which made for a most can, then I start planning and booking. If 2) What’s your favorite float? meals. epic ending to an awesome adventure. you do a thorough job of planning, your 3) What makes float trips special for you? trip will go much better and be safer. 2) The Holitna River 3) An Alaska remote float is an Larry Bartlett incredible experience because it really 2) While it is mega cool to float through 1) The one aspect of fishing floats that 3) The soul-grounding calm of truly wild unveils what Alaska is truly all about. the Alaska wilderness, I do it for a specific I’ve recognized about my own desires is places, unfiltered by the safety, comfort Raw and wild, pristine and untouched, reason—usually to catch a certain species remoteness. Once I focused on remote and amenities of lodge life. coupled with an incredible fishery. Add in a certain environment in a certain way. streams, my quantity and quality desires to the equation the challenges around One of my favorites was a float trip for were paired with isolation and unmolested Troy Buzalsky every corner and the fact that you are the mysterious sea-run Dollies north of places. To perform efficiently in remote 1) During every float trip I challenge truly on your own, with no competition Kotzebue, swinging flies with two-handed locations, I’ve used technology to reduce myself with what could I do to make the racing you to the favorite fishing rods for fish that can eclipse 36 inches. weight and bulk and trained myself to find trip better. Aside from learning how to waters, as well as no guide telling you Aside from a group we saw awaiting comfort without the burdens of pleasure improve my fishing skills, the logistical where to find the fish, or even perhaps pickup when we were flying in, we never in gadgets. planning can make the difference between where the next gravel bar may be for saw another soul or footprint during the a success and an epic failure. My personal camping. Each float is truly unique, week, except for bear tracks. The fishing 2) My favorite float depends on the person experience is that I overpack, which means and nothing can be 100% predicted. It’s was phenomenal, too, both for numbers asking the question. If it’s a question of the boat is loaded with more equipment these unknown elements that keep the and size. fishery strength and variety along with than truly needed. I generally bring curiosity alive, and why I look forward scenery, almost any tributary of the hundreds of spoons and spinners, when to my next remote float. 3) I already mentioned that for me, float Goodnews or Togiak rivers serve me well. If literally a dozen would be more than trips are a means to an end—sublime it’s exploring fish, archaeology, paleontology, enough. I pack fly box after fly box, when George Krumm angling in unpressured waters. That said, or global-warming scenes, I go northwest in reality a handful of patterns would 1) Bar none, the most important there is absolutely nothing that compares to the parts around the Kobuk and suffice. consideration is to narrow the focus and to the experience of planting my feet on Noatak rivers. plan far in advance. By this I mean I a gravel bar in a river full of fish which 2) Each and every remote float I’ve been decide why I want to float, which for me has not been tread upon in the recent 3) What makes a float trip special to me on have been incredible experiences, but usually means “What do I want to catch?” past. Experiencing fantastic fishing in is the absence of humans and previous I must include the Arolik River as my all- I try to be specific. Once I’ve narrowed real wilderness is beyond special. And impacts of careless rivergoers. A special trip time favorite float. The high-lake setting the focus, then I research potential areas there is something magical about being is being able to explore a niche of Alaska was beautiful, the water crystal clear, which may offer what I’m looking for. “out there,” and I mean WAY “out there,” that inspires me to care for its grandeur. A and the fishing unbelievable. We caught Eventually, I’ll have some options. I’ll that is indescribably remarkable and special place is worth never discussing by world-class grayling on 4-weight fly rods, investigate the options by talking to wonderful compared to the hustle and name in fear someone else will rediscover its massive Dolly Varden and leopard rainbow those who may have gone before, or by bustle of civilization. location and devalue its appeal. trout by fishing beads, streamers, and talking to air taxis and outfitters. Timing

February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 49 Mountain goats enjoying an alpine lichen feast.

The view is better from the neoprene Enjoying a rest while enjoying the view. waders.

perfect feeding opportunity under the right conditions. I made a mental note to return with heavier lures, more suitable for long casts. That opportunity finally presented itself earlier this year, when my buddy Steve from down south came up for a visit. He wanted to catch his first-ever grayling, so I took him to this sure-thing spot. The grayling came fast and furious, so I suggested we hike over to the smaller lake and see if we could find a trout or two. With little real estate to work with, only one of us could target the deeper water Catching fish is easier when the from shore without wading into the water. Steve tied on a large Dardevle spoon so location is hard to find. he could cast all the way out to the ledge, while I rigged up a small Mepps spinner to target the shallows. Steve had no trouble reaching the deeper water from shore with the heavier spoon. As he cast and retrieved without any bites, I caught three small grayling on three casts. Suddenly, The Alaska State Record that Wasn’t The trail suddenly branched into three directions. We stopped our Situated at the outflow of a crystal-clear alpine lake lies one of my Steve confidently reared back on his fishing rod and said, “There he is!” Back in 1998, I caught the Alaska state- ascent to consider which route would lead us to our destination. favorite fishing holes for small lake trout and Arctic grayling. It’s not His gear was stout, so the bend in his fishing rod was meaningful. I quickly reeled in record brook trout. There is no evidence Dense patches of blazing fireweed covered the mountainside to the easy to access, and reaching it requires much effort. After arriving at and put myself in position to help Steve land whatever was tethered to his line. The trout of this accomplishment other than a worn- north. Up above, two caribou stood tall upon a high ridge, their the access point via highway, it’s necessary to haul the canoe along a that entered the shallows was big. Far bigger than most lake trout found in small lakes out, out-of-focus picture in a tattered photo massive, spreading antlers silhouetted against the bright blue sky. winding, narrow path a few hundred yards to the lake. It then takes at 4,000 feet. To my surprise, landing the laker went exceedingly well, thanks to a solid album. A handful of people actually saw this I looked down at my canine hiking buddy, Rufus, and asked, about an hour of paddling to reach the fishing bonanza hot-spot. hook-set and Steve’s skillful, slow playing of the fish that completely wore it out. record fish with their own eyes. One of them “Which way should we go?” Along the way, the hum of the highway gives way to the gurgle of Big trout in remote alpine waters are a welcome surprise, but certainly not the still talks about it occasionally, but nowhere An hour of steady uphill hiking led us to this crossroads. Our paddles pushing the canoe forward until only the moment remains. norm. However, accessing remote lakes and streams where people seldom tread as often as I do. destination? A remote- and unnamed alpine lake nestled deeply The alpine lake soon narrows, forcing the canoe to gently snake increases the chances that good things will happen. In Alaska, remote lakes and There are two alpine lakes almost literally in between glaciated mountain peaks covered in wildflowers and through glacially-carved passageways covered with pale, gray lichen streams are sometimes in your own backyard. in the backyard of my Skagway home— rapidly melting snow. I’d heard about the lake from friends who and dark-green juniper shrubs. Eventually, the channel curves and discovered it on a hike of their own, but they were unsure whether widens and it’s then that jumping fish become visible in the distance. it held any fish. The sheer number of trout and grayling at this spot is mind boggling. Fortunately, Rufus and I were prepared for any contingency. The two species commingle in the sandy shallows and seem to hover My small backpack contained a three-piece ultralight fishing rod, in the clear water, their shadows cast to the sandy bottom below. a tiny spinning reel with 60 yards of two-pound mono, and an After many years of catching countless fish in this spot, I began assortment of small lures. Packed with the fishing gear were some to wonder what lay on the other side of the rapids. My curiosity hiking essentials and an assortment of snacks suitable for both eventually triumphed over the guarantee of easy fishing, so two years humans and hungry dogs. ago I decided to find out. A small, sandy patch near shore provided Rufus stared up at me, his smiling eyes waiting for a decision. the perfect place to beach the canoe before climbing up and over one “Let’s take the middle path,” I said before glancing up at the of the lichen-covered rock shoulders. The hike was short but required caribou one last time. As I stepped forward, Rufus put his nose to a steep descent toward yet another, much smaller, alpine lake into the trail and followed closely behind. which the rapids emptied. I made a few unsuccessful casts for grayling into the shallows Unexpected Mountain Trout before spying a deep drop-off just out of my casting range. Reaching Moving forward is the essence of alpine fishing. Reaching remote, it would require getting my feet wet. After removing both socks and mountain waters in the wild and endless north requires fortitude shoes, I discovered that glacially-fed alpine waters are every bit as and perseverance. If catching fish is the only goal, disappointment cold as one would expect. A dozen casts was all my feet could handle would often be the sole reward. However, hearty souls with an before it felt like knives were stabbing at them. Still, I was certain Nice day. Big trout. Steve shows off his big trout from a small alpine lake. intrepid spirit will find real satisfaction in the quest itself. that if there were any trout in the lake, that ledge would provide a

50 FishAlaskaMagazine.com February 2019 February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 51 the spot where it was snagged on the branch. By carefully pulling the 4-pound monofilament hand-over-hand, I managed to get the trout under control. When the brookie was close enough, I reached down and grasped it underneath the gill. After scrambling back to shore, I pulled out my tape measure. The massive brookie measured a thick 23½ inches. In retrospect, the amount of luck it required to resolve all the variables associated with landing this Small Alaska brook trout brookie is truly immeasurable. on a trusty Mepps spinner. At the time, I had little knowledge of the brook trout in Lower Dewey. Not realizing the fish was a rare monster, I followed my Lower Dewey Lake and Upper Dewey larger fish because the little trout are far personal mantra of “I go fishin’ for my Lake. The former is a short but steep more plentiful. This is why, back on that nutrition” and whacked it on the head. 40-minute hike from my house. The latter fateful day in September of ‘98, I tied on a Soaking wet and with fish in tow, I hiked is perched above the tree line at 3,500 feet, red and silver Mepps spinner. back to town and showed the fish to a few and reaching it requires a strenuous three- The spinner proved difficult to retrieve friends. Their stunned reactions were all hour hike. Both trails are well maintained due to the countless obstructions in the the same. With eyes wide they exclaimed, yet neither gets much fishing pressure. creek, mostly fallen trees and branches. “I’ve never seen a trout anywhere near that This is surprising considering that both Some of the hungrier trout briefly followed big caught out of Lower!” I took a quick lakes contain brook trout, a rarity in the the lure, but there just wasn’t enough picture with a disposable camera before state of Alaska. Over the years I’ve caught distance available to work it properly. I filleting the trout for supper. countless fish in both lakes, but nothing peered down into the water just beyond A few years later, I found myself compares to the lunker of ‘98. my feet and detected what appeared to perusing Alaska state fishing records and Rumor has it that the lakes were first be two large brookies suspended in deep came across the entry for brook trout. stocked in 1898, during the peak of the water. The fast-moving riffle blurred the At the time, the space was blank. Had I Klondike Gold Rush. Other rumors say two trout, making it impossible to gauge known, I would be the current Alaska state that the lakes were stocked around 1910 their true size. brook-trout record holder. Now that’s a to encourage more tourism. I’ve even I pointed the rod out to my right and small-town story you can believe. heard that they were stocked during the dropped the spinner into the water, letting 1930s by the territorial government. The the swiftly moving current pull it along Denizens of the Alpine Environment latter version carries the most weight, but until it was suspended in front of the two My reliable dog Rufus and I spend a lot in a small town you’re allowed to believe trout’s mouths. I twitched the rod tip once. of time in the mountains fishing or simply anything you want because the truth is Shockingly, both trout appeared to attack enjoying the view. The ever-present reality often what you make it. at once. As the rod tip bent hard and line of encountering wildlife is always a concern, Regardless, Skagway’s brook trout have screamed off the reel, I realized that the two so we do our best to avoid potentially become self-sustaining. Most of the fish trout were actually just one lunker brookie. dangerous situations. Regardless, every are no more than 10 inches long, but every There are no books, magazines, or year we have our fair share of exciting and year someone catches a 16-inch brookie videos that can prepare an angler for close-up wildlife encounters. worthy of mention. I once caught a 14- unbridled chaos. Even the most successful Climbing mountains means packing inch brookie in Upper Dewey Lake that improvisation looks like sloppy slapstick light, but I make sure to attach a can of sported a grotesquely large, deformed comedy. Had there been any onlookers, bear spray to my belt right next to my head, but that mutant trout was nowhere they would have seen nothing more than multi-tool. For years that bear spray was near as rare as the big one that did not get pure desperation. not needed and stayed firmly tucked into away. The big trout rocketed toward the lake in its sheath, but that all changed in the Lower Dewey Lake is technically a one fast burst, passing directly underneath spring of 2016. subalpine lake, and the north end is fed a tangle of cottonwood branches sitting It was late April, and Rufus and I found by a shallow, rippling creek. During smack-dab in the middle of the creek. It ourselves fishing next to a narrow creek September and October, brook trout leave then jumped entirely out of the water mouth. The creek empties into a large, the lake and enter the stream to spawn. before running back in my direction at eutrophic lake situated at nearly 2,800 Even though the water is clear, the trout are full speed. Within seconds, my line was feet. This is my go-to spot before ice-out well camouflaged. They blend in perfectly irrevocably twisted around too many because warmer water from the creek with the bottom, so spotting them requires branches to count, leaving me with no creates a thawed area large enough to allow patience. After a few minutes staring down leverage on the fish. full casts. A steep drop-off only a few feet into the creek, moving shadows coalesce Against all odds, the brookie remained from shore provides the perfect lake trout into fish shapes flanked by blood red tethered to the hook, even as it fought habitat, and I’ve discovered spring lakers fins. It’s then you realize that brookies are against the weight of bending tree find a small spoon or tube jig bounced everywhere. branches. No longer able to leverage the along the bottom irresistible. There are The biggest brookies hang out in deeper fish toward shore, I did what any self- days when the catching is non stop. holes where the creek empties into the respecting fisherman would do. I jumped This was not one of those days. In fact, lake. A single cured egg on a small gold in the water. we methodically worked the area for over hook usually does the trick, but this I had to step over the wriggling fish an hour without a bite. Rufus sat faithfully technique is not effective for targeting to reach my line and grab it just above by my side through every cast and retrieve while the constant flow of the creek drowned gear—just in case. out all ambient noise. My preferred hiking season is late fall, Without warning, a full-grown moose when trails are deserted and spotting abruptly burst through the underbrush wildlife is more common. Unfortunately, and sprinted past us mere inches away it’s often too cold or windy to fish during before feverishly leaping into the lake at this time of year. Lake trout and grayling full speed. The splash it created was massive seem to disappear around this time, so my and the water deep enough that the moose rod hours are better spent targeting Dollies was immediately forced to swim. Out of or late-season coho. the woods, a random dog followed in hot Two years ago, on October 24th, I pursuit, but after spotting us the canine planned a day hike along a high-mountain quickly turned heel and ran back from trail hoping to check out some Gold Rush- where it came. era mining ruins. It was an unusually warm The frightened moose made deep and windless day with temperatures in the guttural sounds as it swam in a semicircle 40s. Reaching the trailhead requires passing before turning back in our direction. This by one of my favorite fall lake-trout holes, so all happened faster than it takes to read before heading out I loaded my fishing rod, these sentences, so I had no time to react. neoprene waders, and cooler into the car. Suddenly, I remembered the bear spray Daylight is already a cherished commodity attached to my belt and as I reached down in late October, so I decided to devote a half to grab it, I wondered out loud, “Does bear hour to fishing and save the rest of the day spray work on a moose?” for hiking. I had no expectations of getting a Rufus didn’t answer, but he caught sight bite, much less actually catching a fish. of the approaching moose, with only its After the short hike down to the lake, I head visible above the water. It was then tucked Rufus in my waders and walked out that 12 pounds of vicious dog protectively into the still water. Fog climbed mysteriously leaped in front of me and stood just below into the air and moved swiftly along the my feet, not afraid of meeting the advancing surface without the slightest hint of a breeze. beast head-on. Rufus let out a series of After casting, I made sure to let the yellow howling barks, which must have looked spoon sink almost all the way to the bottom. overwhelmingly bizarre to the breathless I reeled steadily, pausing the retrieve for a moose because it immediately turned and half second every five- or six cranks. As my swam in the opposite direction. eyes caught sight of the lure wiggling its way I watched it retreat into the distance until up and over the steep rocky ledge, a massive all I could make out was the V-shape of its trout suddenly appeared from the depths. It ears. Meanwhile, I returned to my fruitless charged the lure at full speed, inhaling it just fishing effort, praising Rufus for his bravery a few feet from where I was standing. with tasty dog biscuits. The moose finally The trout immediately spun around and made landfall near another creek outflow ran back out over the ledge before turning about a quarter-mile away. My eyes followed tail toward the bottom. I quickly managed to the shoreline back toward our position when loosen my drag so it could run freely. Rufus I noticed what appeared to be an oddly seemed to perk up from the excitement, but shaped, large black rock. When it started it was actually a large bald eagle landing on moving in our direction, we packed up the a nearby spruce that caught his eye. gear and hiked back to the car. After working the trout back toward the Fortunately, most of our alpine wildlife surface, I slowly walked back to shore and encounters are considerably less dramatic. dragged it onto the rocky shore. The laker Golden- and bald eagles are my most was a thick, 25-inch male that weighed dreaded wildlife encounter because they every bit of 10 pounds. Eager to get back often seem hell-bent on stealing my fish. out in the water, I quickly stunned and bled Caribou, bears, lynx, and mountain goats the fish and made sure to hide it from that also make appearances from time to time. greedy eagle. We also prepare ourselves for changes in This whole process, from parking the weather, the possibility of wet clothes, and car until stashing the fish, took less than the threat of injury. When hiking in alpine 15 minutes. I still had another 15 to spare terrain, it’s never a good idea to take chances. so Rufus and I repeated the scenario to the If you can’t find a friend willing to partner letter, although the second trout was slightly up, make sure to bring along a brave dog. fatter than the first. Two trout is plenty, so we gutted them Ready for Fish and carried them back to the car before While fishing is usually our highest priority, laying them on ice in the cooler. It was the sometimes a beautiful day demands an perfect start to what would be a memorable alpine hike. Taking full advantage of Alaska’s day. It was also a reminder that hiking short summers is what life in the north is sometimes turns into fishing, and at other all about. Still, there’s no point in going for times, fishing turns into hiking. a hike without bringing along some fishing Reaching New Heights After following the middle path, the caribou on the mountain were quickly out of sight. Rufus and I crossed a narrow creek and began to follow it upstream. Just above the tree line, we crested a ridge and the silt-blue lake came into view. It was far bigger than I’d imagined and would take days to fish thoroughly, but a rough trail extending around the southern end provided an excellent place to start. For the next two hours we worked about a mile of shoreline. Rufus patrolled the visible perimeter while I cast toward every creek mouth and drop-off within range. There were no bites and no rising fish. I never even saw a single minnow. My growling belly signaled it was time to call it quits, so I enjoyed a peanut butter and jelly sandwich while Rufus feasted on some leftover chicken. The sun was warm on my skin and the high-mountain peak to the south suddenly looked more appealing than casting toward nonexistent fish. Two hours later we were approaching the summit. Dall sheep and mountain goats intermingled as we walked past, curious but unafraid. It seemed likely they weren’t accustomed to seeing humans or dogs. We turned toward a steep rise and began our final ascent. Sensing we were nearing the peak, Rufus ran ahead and looked back in my direction with what looked like a smile. My legs were burning during those last few steps, but the panoramic view quickly dispelled the pain. The soft, white clouds above were perfectly reflected in the lake below, creating the illusion that we were suspended upside down. Raindrops fell silently from a lone, dark cloud far in the distance while tiny winged insects crawled along the craggy pinnacle where we sat to rest. A solitary dandelion growing from a pile of jagged rocks gently fluttered in the soft afternoon breeze. Rufus sat staring out over endless mountaintops stretching toward unknown horizons while I prepared another snack. I’ve been thinking about that alpine lake a lot lately, wondering whether it holds any fishing secrets yet to be discovered. Would it be more productive in the spring, or maybe the fall? Should I try working the other side of the lake? Do I need to add a few new lures to my alpine collection? Next year, I plan on finding out. If we get skunked again, I have a solid backup plan.

Andrew Cremata was named 2017 Best Sports Columnists in the state by the Alaska Press Club. His book, Fish This! An Alaskan Story is available from Lynn Canal Publishing and amazon.com. In his spare time, Andrew enjoys fishing, hiking, and more recently, canoeing. His dog, Rufus, is a very good boy. Yes he is. When heading back to wherever a float and physically prepared to survive, which is plane picked you up, the feeling is bitter one of the things a fly out forces you to do: sweet. Bitter because it’s never easy leaving to face any doubts and be prepared. Don’t the remote beauty of Alaska; sweet because be scared; rather embrace it, for that’s what it’s always nice to hear the engine of a bush gives one the full appreciation of how vast, plane as it returns for you, dismissing any how remote, and how unforgiving Alaska doubt that you’ve been forgotten. can be. You’ll not get that feeling by staying My travels take me to many parts of at a fancy lodge or hanging out on rivers the state, where I find my most fulfilling near the road system. fishing adventures through fly outs. Once you touch foot in remote Alaska, Whether taking to Alaska’s outback on you often get an instantaneous jolt of wheels or a float plane, the experiences to reality as to just where you are. On a recent be had on every single trip are more than fly out with a trio of friends, we piled out worth the price of admission. Likely, what of the float plane, walked on the pontoon you’ll discover is before your first fly-out to reach the sandy shore, looked down and adventure is complete, you’ll be planning saw it was covered in fresh brown-bear the next. tracks. One of the guys gave me a look, one I’d seen before from first-time fly-out The Scenery anglers. “It’s going to be a great day,” I Last summer and early fall I went on smiled and shot him a wink. multiple fly-out fishing trips. On one trip, two gentlemen from the Midwest joined The Fish me. On the way out, one of the men fell As if the stunning scenery–both in flight asleep. His buddy, who had his nose glued and on foot–isn’t enough, there’s the fish. to the window for the past 30 minutes, If yearning to experience truly world-class finally shook him awake. “Look at that fishing for more, bigger, and less-pressured giant bull,” he said, pointing to a moose fish, then a fly out’s for you. out his side of the plane. Fly outs typically eliminate the frugal Of course, his snoozing friend was angler. Fear of flying and encountering slow to react, so missed seeing the bull. bears, discount others. Facing the unknown Fortunately, the pilot circled back around also forces folks to abort fly-out adventures. so we could all see it. It was one of the The way I look at it, bush planes are much biggest moose I’d ever laid eyes on. safer than driving the highways back home, “What in the world are you sleeping and of all the years I’ve spent tromping for?” The one man badgered his groggy through remote Alaska, I’ve never had to friend. “I’ve seen moose, a herd of caribou use bear spray or draw a firearm on a bear Story & photos by Scott Haugen and a brown bear with cubs wading a river. while I was fishing. I did have to swat a You’re missing the best part of Alaska!” brown bear on the nose with my fly rod I couldn’t have said it better, myself, “ . . . one time as it followed me up a trail, but The float plane banked hard into the wind, quickly gaining Top: Author, Scott Haugen, with missing the best part of Alaska!” Fly-out I dropped the fish I was carrying and that altitude, and the beautiful creek a friend and I had spent a plump grayling taken on his first trips to remote fishing destinations offer swiftly ended the encounter. cast in this little stream. Haugen has the full deal. If you really want to get lost If looking to pursue exotic species like the last eight hours fishing came to life from a different been enjoying fly outs to remote in nature, a fly out will deliver. You’ll be Arctic char, Arctic grayling, sheefish, and perspective. From above, the crimson ribbons of sockeye places for decades and suggests out of cell range, at the mercy of the bush monster pike, fly outs are the best way to them to any angler looking to plane to return later, prepared to fend off find action. Will fly outs always produce salmon glowed in the crystal-clear stream. Families of experience ultimate Alaska. bears, and will need to be able to survive big, beautiful fish? No, but they will sandhill cranes dotted the tundra and standing in the same should you get stuck overnight. provide an experience you can’t get any Middle: Exotic species like Arctic spot I'd snapped photos of him minutes prior, a giant brown char can be found in many rivers Bad weather and mechanical problems other way. bear was chasing fish. only accessible by airplane. do occur in Alaska. You must be mentally Last September, I flew out to a remote Left: If you are yearning to experience truly world-class fishing for more, bigger, and less-pressured fish, then a fly out is for you.

It’s a great feeling when the bush plane takes off, leaving you to fish in solitude in remote, beautiful Alaska. If you enjoy fishing alongside Alaska’s apex predator, nothing gets you closer than a fly-out adventure.

Fly outs to remote Alaska take you stream south of King Salmon. I’d flown to wondrous places you’d otherwise never see, and experiences you’d there a year prior, and though the fish were never live. in there, the catching was tough. This time, however, the fishing was the best I’d ever The odds of catching prized fish like Arctic char greatly increase encountered for both char and grayling. when pursuing them on fly outs to remote Alaskan waters. The crystal-clear stream was ideal for sight fishing, allowing me to place my small bead precisely where it needed to be in order to entice bites. This time around, the fish were more aggressive. I’d noticed far fewer human tracks on the sandy banks than the year prior, meaning there was less pressure. There also weren’t near the number of spawning sockeye and coho salmon, meaning the char and grayling could have been hungrier. I landed several nice grayling, one just shy of the magic 20-inch mark, one just over. A buddy landed a fat, blue-tailed When heading back to wherever a float-plane will grayling well over 20 inches, the biggest pick you up, the feeling is bitter-sweet. of the day. We also landed some nice char, but I lost the biggest of the day, one we conservatively estimated at 12 pounds; there were bigger ones in there. Over the years, my biggest northern pike in Alaska have come via fly outs, along with some dandy sheefish. Of all the fly outs I’ve been on for pike, and a couple for sheefish in the fall, I’ve yet to see one other angler. Getting dropped on a gravel bar, fishing remote waters, alone, is the ultimate escapade. Hiking to hole after hole, or using small boats put there by lodges you’re fishing with, makes access dependable and straight forward. Fish, move, fish some more. Catching fish all day long is more the norm than the exception on many fly outs.

Bonus Round The best part about fly-out fishing in Alaska, however, is the unforeseen opportunities it affords. Yes, we’d all like to catch big fish. Yes, we’d all like to fish an entire day without bumping into fellow anglers. Those are often givens when it comes to fly outs. Where fly outs really set themselves apart, however, are in the bonuses they offer. If I had one day to spend fishing in Alaska, it’d be on a remote stream loaded with brown bears. I love watching these giant bears search for fish, navigate rushing rivers, effortlessly slip through thick alders and obey the pecking order where competition with other bears runs high. The patience, desire and tenacity of these giant bruins that shoulders and fearless look sit atop the food chain is brought back memories. something I wish every “That looks a lot like the fellow adventurer could big boar I saw about 200 witness. yards from here, almost The feeling of solitude a year ago to this day,” I one receives from a fly out whispered to my buddy as is the best therapy I know. I kept snapping photos. From the wide-open spaces My friend wasn’t with me on sunny days, to feelings the previous year. of confinement emanating The bear lunged for a from spending an entire salmon but missed. When day tightly wrapped in he turned to resume rain gear, hood snugged to Big pike are just one of the species anglers can enjoy pursuing fishing from his special the face, allows your mind on fly outs to remote Alaska. The author, Scott Haugen, was more spot, I captured some to run free. Your level of than thrilled with this hefty water wolf. shots of his impressively self-sufficiency on these wide backside. “That’s journeys takes the experience of fishing to another level. him, that’s the same bear as last year!” I excitedly blurted to my Some streams are technical, and the fish finicky, causing you friend. Enlarging the image, I showed him the triangular scar on to think deeper in order to find success. Getting lost in those the bear’s back, just above the tail. “See that scar? It was fresh last thoughts is memorable, especially when your goals are achieved. year, and I have the pictures to prove it.” Here, you set your own goals, and reach them if you can. You, and Sure enough, it was the same bear, a year older, and he looked only you, can determine if your goals were met. Sometimes the it. His hide lacked the luster, his chiseled muscles, a bit more remote experience isn’t about goals at all. broken down. He’d likely fished in this stream for years, maybe My last fly out, the one where my hook pulled from the jaws of his whole life, which I’d estimated to be pushing 20 years, if not the 12-pound Arctic char, spurred a desire in me I’d not felt; one more. Personally, that moment made the entire fly-out trip for me to land a giant char. Going into that day my goal was to catch a perfect, even if I hadn’t caught a giant grayling or battled a trophy trophy-class Arctic grayling, something I’d failed to do a year prior Arctic char. in that place. On my first cast I achieved that goal, then beat it a The feelings you get when you hear the whining engine of an few casts later. Then, I got bit by the char bug. I caught several in approaching bush plane is tough to describe, transitioning from the two- to five-pound range, but the 10-plus-pound char gave me good to empty, almost instantly. The approaching plane marks the the slip all day long. The instant I lost the big char, my intensity end of a glorious day, which can be a letdown because you don’t level rose. I knew, at that moment, if I didn’t catch a monster char, want it to end, but it’s also nice knowing you have a ride back to I’d one day be back on this stream to chase my dreams. Now, I get civilization. to go back. Admiring Alaska’s beauty below as you fly away from the stream Making the mile-long hike to meet the float plane was one of you’d fished, you realize, no matter how hard you try, it will be elation and sullenness. I was elated with catching some of the impossible to describe to someone what it’s truly like to experience biggest grayling I’d seen in years, and with the beautiful char. I a remote fly-out fishing trip. Grappling for words, trying to bring also enjoyed a couple up-close brown-bear encounters. But I didn’t moments back to life, pale in comparison to the real thing. Truly, want to leave. I wanted to stay, or at least, return the next day. the only way to fully appreciate what an Alaska fly-out fishing As my buddy and I rounded the last bend in the river, heading adventure is all about, is to do it yourself. across the tundra to reach the lake where our float plane was landing, we looked upstream to see a giant brown bear, elbow- deep in the stream. Quickly, I dug the telephoto lens from my pack Scott Haugen personally books fishing trips to a handful of special and started snapping pictures. The bear’s big, blocky head, broad places in remote Alaska. To learn more visit scotthaugen.com.

Just because you go on a fly-out fishing adventure doesn’t mean the catching will be easy. Stealth, hard work and patience are often key to success. Magic Creek was easy to find because Accessing remote rivers for world-class fishing opportunities opens up a truly raw and justly it was marked with an American flag. untouched world. John Steinbeck once said, “People don’t take trips . . . trips take people,” and this could not be more accurate when it comes to exploring remote Alaska. Alaska has 9,728 officially named rivers, creeks, and streams. Some of these rivers are well known and frequently traveled and others are untouched and unexplored. Others are remote opportunities where, with the proper planning and logistical support, die-hard anglers can appreciate a piece of Alaska that few ever encounter. Papa Bear Adventures emerged in the mid-90s as an outfitter with a quest for providing do-it-yourself back-country adventures for both anglers and hunters. The initial owners, Karl, Steve and Robin Powers, ran the show until 2017 when they sold to the new owners Aaron Osantoski and Justin Essian. Aaron and Justin grew up together as best friends in Michigan. Aaron turned Justin on to fishing and hunting and Justin specialized in aviation which led to an internship at Papa Bear. In 2012 Justin brought Aaron out to Papa Bear’s to moose hunt, and they both tagged nice animals. Suffice it to say, they both got the “Bethel bug” and in 2017 started talks with Steve about buying the business in its entirety . . . “turn-key.” Papa Bear is located in Bethel, Alaska, which serves as the hub for 56 villages in the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta. This location is the ideal access point for remote float-fishing locations including the Aniak, Arolik, Eek, Goodnews, Kanektok, Kisaralik, and Kwethluk rivers. Having fished many parts of Alaska, my angling identity is a patchwork of all the places I have journeyed and all the expeditions conquered, including the Arolik River which cemented my desire to experience more of Alaska’s remote rivers. After some research and discussions with Papa Bear, the Kwethluk River would be the next chapter in the dossier. The name Kwethluk is derived from the Yup’ik word Kuiggluk, meaning “dangerous river.” The river snakes some 100 miles from its headwaters nestled below the Ahklun mountains and Chikumnuk Glacier into its Kuskokwim River drainage. The river lacks Loaded rated whitewater or significant rapids but offers braids, sweepers, and dead-ends that make with three it a challenging float. dry bags, For this trip Papa Bear not only provides the fly-in transportation to our remote the author destination, but also the logistical supplies including raft, cooler, kitchen, table, tent, cots, carries his chairs, and propane . . . all the big stuff we don’t want to ship or travel with. final load Key items that we will bring include food, clothing, communication devices, personal to the protection, tackle and gear, cameras and electronics, and luggage. In addition, traveling as awaiting The Morrish Mouse is a two-person group we still have weight restrictions, so packing as light and lean as possible Beaver. an ideal fly pattern is required. for SW Alaska’s Papa Bear currently operates two de Havilland Beaver float planes and one Piper Super remote rivers, and Cub. Pilots include owner Justin, who has been flying since 2005, Randy who’s been flying they work equally the bush for over 15 years, and Arthur who is from Quinhagak and has logged over 10,000 well on both grayling hours as a pilot. Needless to say, these three have tremendous experience and capability. and rainbow trout. Our late-August weather is beautiful for a day of flying, making the fly-in portion of the trip an experience in itself. We launch from Kuskokwim Bay and our pilot Arthur flies us up the Kwethluk River pointing out several landmarks and showing us the braided river system with its abundant twists and hairpin turns. From above it is as beautiful as it is befuddling. Flying across the tundra jungle we see three moose including one large bull all working their way down to our river. We pass Crooked Creek where the river doubles in size and come to Breast Mountain; it’s obvious how it got its name. Next is Boundary Lake. As Arthur banks the plane preparing for landing we spot two brown bear who are startled Top: Our pilot Arthur flies off and and take off running towards our portage area. Eighty miles, thirty-five minutes—and suddenly it sinks in . . . we’re alone. overwhelming eagerness as we land on Boundary Lake! Let the adventure begin. Middle: The After quickly unloading our gear it’s time for a portage, a hundred-yard uphill trek with Kwethluk River has ample gravel bars a steep 50-yard downhill decent. Our heaviest item is the raft, and Arthur grabs it and leads throughout the system and many Abundance at Every Corner the way, telling us he’s just preparing his legs for moose season. Once portaged we say our have stunning views. Bottom: Daily goodbyes. A stark reality sinks in that we are now starting our journey; alone, but anxious chores included unloading the boat with anticipation. and making camp, only to waking Boundary Lake is surrounded by picturesque mountains including Mount Oratia, and up, taking down camp, and loading Alaska’s Kwethluk River the boat back up for another day on the Konarut and Crooked mountains. These peaks are not massive, but magnificent as you explore the crevices that were once covered in winter snow and now quilted with patches the water. of greens, reds, and barren earth. The lake is surrounded by spongy tundra intermixed with wild cranberries, blueberries, blackberries, and scarlet-red fireweed. It doesn’t take long for the bugs to realize we have arrived. Our float is scheduled to be eleven days and eleven nights and I am traveling with my brother Todd. Early information tells us that fishing gets better below Crooked Creek, so we assemble our raft, load-up, and head-out. The upper water is very narrow and winding, The mountains surrounding Boundary Lake are quilted with patches of Story and photos by Troy Buzalsky and within minutes we come to our first across-the-river sweeper. I wonder inwardly, greens, reds, and barren earth, where winter snow has melted. make, and some brands taste very good. We tundra swan. Wild, aggressive coho pounded also bring a supply of Sohnrey almonds and Our fishing technique for the trip includes lures like this Eppinger Devle Dog. ProBars as healthy, protein-rich snacks. casting spinners from the front of the raft into Each morning our routine includes likely water as we float. When we hookup we checking our Garmin inReach Explorer+ stop and fish. Most of the fishy water includes satellite communicator. Not only does the river seams where channels meet, the seams device contain good maps and GPS, it can created by backwater sloughs, and the log send- and receive text and email messages, and root-wad filled soft-water edges. There is and also accesses local weather. Our first no evidence of a fish spawn or carcasses in weather report is disheartening; winds this area and we conclude the high water has from the north at 16-20 mph followed by washed everything downstream. heavy rain. As we navigate down past Johnson Creek, The high winds proved challenging for the tannin-stained stream darkens the river rowing, with constant wind in the face and system. This area also showcases that the non-stop braids and hairpin turns through beavers have been very busy, redesigning the narrow-flowing river. We fished as much the river at every corner. Fishing slows as as possible using our ultra-light trout rods we venture downstream, making us wonder while casting Pen-Tac spinners in copper, if fishing will improve downstream, or if silver, and gold. The upper river offers decent we should have spent more time upstream; fishing; grayling are prolific. There is also a it’s a never-ending question on a river smattering of rainbows and Dolly Varden, never traveled. and even a few blushed silvers to be found. Loading the raft each morning is an While rowing through a shallow section of exercise in strategic management, trying to the river we encounter an unusually-colored create balance while safeguarding supplies Above: The leopard rainbows bear with a black butt, clearly an indication and making adjustments so the predictable are striking, with thick blood- he’d been sitting in the berry-filled tundra. items are accessible. On a trip like this, sturdy red side stripes that pour from Below Breast Mountain we spot a caribou on and bullet-proof dry bags are a necessity. Ours the crimson gill plates. river left and almost immediately across the include the Yeti Panga 100, the Grundens contact on the water. The Incognito Lured beads river we spot more caribou. This time, there 105L Shackelton, and the Kaution 70L Below Johnson Creek and around Elbow proved irresistible in areas are four huge bulls all hanging out on the Lazarus which also served as my travel carry- Mountain the river was changing and we where the group found tundra ridge. on to safeguard the 53 pounds of electronics finally came to our first spawning sockeye, spawning salmon. Traveling towards Crooked Creek we are including cameras, GPS, drone, solar panels, so it was time to gear up for bead fishing. still in the narrow and winding upper section inverter, etc. Still using the 6-weight fly rods, our setup when we see an unusual sight, caribou Floating the foothills of Eluwatak includes: a Thingamabobber strike Indicator, antlers literally sprouting from the ground. Mountain we still have good weather and we five feet of 25-pound leader, split-shot (as I instantly realize this is a fresh bear kill are hoping to find some spawning sockeye. needed), three feet of RIO 3X tippet, an 8 and can’t resist a closer look. Armed with a The grayling fishing has been enjoyable, but mm bead, and a size 6 hook. Our beads are Taurus .44 Magnum, Todd and I examine let’s face it, we’re here for the big rainbows handmade Incognito Lured beads and are the scene. It’s clear this is a very fresh bear and nice silvers. The weather is nice enough truly works of art. They are neutrally buoyant kill, the carcass had just been buried, the to break out our lightweight Chota Tundra and feature a soft outer shell with a hard core, river is still disturbed and there is fresh blood Hippies hip waders, which are an enjoyable making them virtually lifelike. We bring dripping from a nearby rib cage. We discern change after several days in chest waders. several colors to choose from, and to help us the bear has not wandered far and is most We are still fishing with our ultra-light select the correct bead Todd finds an actual likely watching us . . . a very scary, yet curious trout rods when we spot two nice silvers in spawned egg. Bingo, matching the hatch situation. some softer backwater. Todd and I each cast made easy. Fishing improves as we meander and boom, two hard hookups, and although Bead fishing is red hot and the beads downstream and we finally pull out our fly our rods are light, we manage both silvers to can barely make the targeted water before rods. Although there is a huge caddis hatch the Brady’s handmade net which was custom they are viciously inhaled. Rainbow after with fish rolling everywhere we choose to made for this trip . . . specifically for large rainbow is caught and released . . . and we entice the active grayling with Morrish mice. rainbows and silvers. finally see the abundance, size, and beauty of It’s always exciting seeing these fish cartwheel As we continue to pick and choose the Kwethluk leopard rainbow, whose thick, “What have we gotten ourselves into?” out of the water as they strike at the large, channels through the braided-river network, blood-red side stripes pour out of crimson As dusk arrives we start looking feverishly floating fly. Grayling are abundant and large suddenly, 10 feet from our raft, a huge gill-plates, ascending their broad shoulders for a nice gravel bar as we spot a brown bear on the Kwethluk with multiple eighteen- and crash and splash occurs! We were so focused and deep green bodies. These incredible running from the river’s edge, obviously not nineteen-inch fish caught. The fly rod outfit looking downstream we nearly ran over a fish are covered with black spots that happy to see us. As we beach the raft for the of choice for me is an Edge Gama Beta 690- huge cow moose. We laugh, happy it was a ooze into one-another . . . providing perfect evening a cow moose and her calf watch us 4F coupled with a Solitude 2 Reel, Rio Gold moose and not a bear! ambush camouflage. with curiosity. Yes, we are in remote Alaska! floating line, and 3X RIO Flouroflex tippet. Nightfall takes us just short of Elbow Around the next river bend we spot some Waking to the sound of rippling water Six species of owls inhabit Yup’Ik country Mountain, and while setting up camp we backwater and a large school of milling and light rain pelting the tent, our goal is and their hoot becomes part of our morning hear an unusual sound . . . a river boat. It’s silvers. Todd and I each cast, and again, to put some distance behind us because the routine. By mid-river the rain has subsided our pilot Arthur, girlfriend Holly with son boom, a double silver hookup, again on the fishing is supposed to get better as we travel and the fishing keeps getting better, especially Owen, and friend Jeremy, and they are moose ultra-light trout rods! It’s time to dig out our downstream. Most of our meals are planned with rainbows and silvers becoming a more hunting. We chat over cold beverages while heavier silver rods, for me the Edge BWS StR around morning Starbucks instant Via coffee frequent and more rewarding catch. In this Owen fishes. We use this time to determine if 904-2 with Shimano CI4 spinning reel and and Mountain House freeze-dried meals area the river is littered with gravel bars, along we are on track in our course and we also get 30-pound Berkley FireLine Crystal. from our 14-day emergency food supply kit. with bear grass, alders, cottonwoods, and their phone number so we can text each other While Todd casts Pen-Tac spinners I Dehydrated meals are lightweight, easy to mossy mud flats which are popular with the with our inReach Explorers. It’s nice having a choose a Dardevle Devle Dog spoon. For the first several casts we hook-up, literally fish Rainbows after fish. As the fish move we cast into the were found main river and again hook-up on almost each throughout the cast. Interestingly, the rainbows are also very system and aggressive, and several large rainbows make it were often a to the awaiting net, one nearing the magic surprise catch 24-inch mark. when casting The fishing in this area is somewhat hardware. localized and we are making good headway downstream when we come to a major intersection. The question is yet again, river left or right? We choose right, and within seconds realize we’ve made a bad choice, as we almost get sucked under a huge swift- water strainer created by a downed tree and subsequent root wad. We beach the raft and after an exhaustive drag we’re back floating, taking the next right channel and again getting stuck behind a downed tree. The high water has created a literal war zone for Magic Creek enters on river left and there’s navigation, and since we are at nightfall it’s an American flag flying high on a large gravel time to camp at our roadblock and portage bar opposite the creek. Fishing this area is in the morning. absolutely chrome hot. The trick is making After two significant sweepers we pull out a very long cast and hitting the seam in the DJI Spark drone and fly it up and over the middle of the river. Heavy spoons and our location to see if we can better determine spinners were the ticket. After landing three- our route. Not only does the drone capture dozen feisty silvers we realized we needed to some cool video from overhead, using it make a downstream move, because our pick- for reconnaissance serves us well, as we plot up boat would arrive in the morning, and we our route with the newly acquired birds-eye still had water to travel. information. John McDonald from Kuskokwim The next section of the river is littered with Wilderness Adventures is our jet-boat pick- downed trees, root wads, and braids, keeping up person, arriving exactly on time in his the oarsman (me!) on his toes. The silvers are Wooldridge jet boat. For 21 years John has abundant and most are looking more chrome been transporting people to the local villages, than blushed. Catching is good and I add the picking up rafting parties and providing Dardevle Red Eye Wiggler to my arsenal. nature- and cultural tours on the area rivers. Having never fished these before, I cannot Watching John navigate the lower river, he is believe how effective they are, the silvers just clearly an expert on the Kwethluk. hammer them! With our adventure in the books it was Fishing is epic in this area with fresh silvers nice making it back to Papa Bear’s lodge and rainbows caught throughout the river. for our final night, which included a hot We finally pull out the fly rods for silvers shower, meeting our new friends Arthur for the first time, and although most of the and Holly for dinner, and a warm, comfy water wasn’t really fly friendly, we managed a bed. The Kwethluk River will always be few participative fish casting weighted Dolly remembered for its abundance. Its abundant Llamas with our 8-weight fly rods. wildlife. Its abundant grayling, rainbow, While camping above the old weir we and silver fishery; both in numbers and in again hear a familiar sound, a jet boat. It’s size. Its abundant river network including Arthur, Holly, and Jeremy heading back braids, turns, and obstacles. But most to moose camp. They stop by and deliver a importantly, the abundant memories made care package that includes pizza, beer, and . . . because we didn’t take a trip on the smoked salmon. What a treat! Kwethluk River, the Kwethluk took us on As we make it to the new weir we stop a trip of a lifetime. For more information and visit host Travis Hedrick. He tells us about floating Alaska’s remote rivers go to: they are getting seven-hundred silvers per papabearadventures.com day across the weir compared to the normal three thousand. He confirms this year was the highest water they’ve had in many years Troy Buzalsky serves as a Battalion Chief with and it has made fishing challenging. His Longview Fire. When not working, Troy can departing words, “Fish Magic Creek!” be found boating, fishing, and photographing Fishing in the foothills of Three Step all around the Pacific Northwest, including Mountain offers moments of excellence. One the Great State of Alaska. Troy is the backwater slough produces nearly forty fish, Boats columnist for Fish Alaska magazine with double after double silver action. Todd and also writes feature stories based on his even manages a nice pike, the first of the trip, Alaska adventures. He can be reached and an indication there are more coming. at [email protected]. Place fillets in refrigerator while setting up the breading procedure. The recipe calls for a 1:1:1 ratio consisting of fancy, fine-grated asiago cheese, hand-shredded parmesan cheese, and Japanese bread crumbs (panko). Parmesan & Asiago Crusted Halibut Dredge fillets in flour (mixed with salt and Recipe by Chefs Thomas W. Chapman and pepper to taste). Shake off excess flour, dip Daniel Shier, 49th State Brewing Company into egg wash, then press the fillet firmly in the panko to achieve a 1:1:1 ratio. Sear the fillets on a flattop (or pan) until they are a golden-brown color and desired temperature. Ingredients Plate with lemon butter cream sauce. Four 6-ounce halibut fillets 2 cups all-purpose flour (salt and pepper to taste) Lemon butter cream sauce 2 cups asiago cheese 1/4 cup dry white wine 2 cups parmesan cheese 1/4 cup white-wine vinegar 2 cups panko bread crumbs 2 tbsp finely-chopped shallot 6 eggs with 1/2 cup of water whisked together (egg wash) 1/3 cup heavy cream Lemon butter cream sauce (recipe below) 1/4 tsp salt 1/8 tsp white pepper, or to taste 2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-size pieces and chilled 1 tbsp lemon zest

In a medium sauce pan, combine the white wine and vinegar, add the shallots and bring to a boil. When the liquid starts to boil, reduce the heat and let slowly simmer. Reduce the wine and vinegar by 85% (shallots should become light pink in color and almost all the liquid should be gone). Add heavy cream and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and slowly add butter one piece at a time while whisking continuously. Whisk until the butter is fully melted, add the lemon zest plus salt and pepper to finish.

49TH State Brewing Company 717 W 3rd Avenue Anchorage, AK 99501 (907) 277-7727 49statebrewing.com

70 FishAlaskaMagazine.com February 2019 February 2019 FishAlaskaMagazine.com 71 Homer Kenai Riverside Lodge ...... 19 Alaska Coastal Marine ...... 14 Kenai River Suites ...... 15 Beluga Lake Lodge ...... 14 King Salmondeaux Lodge ...... 15 Best Western Bidarka Inn ...... 45 Sterling Homer Chamber of Commerce . . . 24 Alaska Canoe ...... 15 Homer Marine Trades Association . . 24 Talkeetna Alagnak Kachemak Gear Shed ...... 24 Dave Fish Alaska ...... 49 Angler’s Alibi ...... 63 NOMAR ...... 24 Love-Lee Cabins ...... 49 Alaska Peninsula North Country Charters ...... 14 Thorne Bay Wildman Lake Lodge ...... 38 Sea Tow Southcentral Alaska . . . . .25 McFarland’s Floatel ...... 57 Anchorage Icy Bay Togiak 49th State Brewing Co...... 70 Icy Bay Lodge ...... 55 Togiak River Lodge ...... 63 Adventures in Eye Care ...... 4 Iliamna Valdez Alaska Adventure Gear ...... 49 Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge ...... 13 Eagle’s Rest RV Park ...... 17 Alaska Mining & Diving Supply . .22, 23 Bent Prop Lodge ...... 69 Fish Central ...... 17, 33 Alaska Raft & Kayak ...... 25 Talarik Creek Lodge ...... 75 Valdez Convention & Visitors Bureau .69 Alex Hotel & Suites ...... 32 Juneau Valdez Fish Derbies ...... 17 Best Western Golden Lion Hotel . . .32 Alaska Seaplanes ...... 53 Valdez Outfitters ...... 17 Dewey’s Cook Inlet ...... 4 Katmai Wasilla FisheWear ...... 21 Bristol Adventures ...... 16 JETECH LLC ...... 44 FishHound Expeditions ...... 46 Kenai Man Gear Alaska ...... 47 Mexico in Alaska ...... 32 Kenai Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Whittier Mossy’s Fly Shop ...... 20, 34 Bureau ...... 15 Whittier Marine Charters ...... 25 Oomingmak ...... 10 King Salmon Yakutat Ravn Alaska ...... 70 Bear Trail Lodge ...... 10 Leonard’s Landing Lodge ...... 56 Rural Energy Enterprises ...... 7 Branch River Air Service ...... 63 Yakutat Lodge ...... 2 Six Robblees’ ...... 68 Frigate Adventure Travel ...... 68 Statewide Sportsman’s Air Service ...... 61 Naknek River Camp ...... 18 Alaska Marine Highway System . . . 54 The Anchorage Boat Show . . . . . 25 Klawok Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute . . 70 The Lakefront Anchorage ...... 9 Eagle’s Wings Wilderness Lodge . . . 53 Alaska State Troopers ...... 35 Trail Ridge Air ...... 32 Kodiak Alaska USA Federal Credit Union . . . . .25 Women’s Flyfishing ...... 21 Kodiak Combos ...... 31 Dewey’s Cook Inlet ...... 4 Aniak Kodiak Compass Suites ...... 53 Fish Alaska Sweepstakes ...... 5 Aniak Air Guides ...... 46 Nushagak Man Gear Alaska ...... 47 Bethel Alaska Kingfishers ...... 61 Pen Air ...... 47 Papa Bear Adventures ...... 67 Bristol Bay Adventures ...... 39 Ravn Alaska ...... 70 Bristol Bay Nushagak River Adventures . . . .8, 63 Sportsman’s Warehouse ...... 5, 76 Alaska’s Bearclaw Lodge ...... 61 WT AK Ventures ...... 67 Three Bears Alaska ...... 11 Angler’s Alibi ...... 63 Pelican National Naknek River Camp ...... 18 Pelican Chamber of Commerce . . . 52 Ahi USA / Promar ...... 33 Cooper Landing Petersville Alaska Outdoors TV ...... 41 Chasing Tales ...... 15 Bent Prop Lodge ...... 69 American Airboats ...... 28 Kenai Riverside Lodge ...... 19 Prince of Wales Island Angler West TV ...... 72 Cordova Alaska Sea Otter Sound Lodge . . . .57 Bissell Insurance Agency ...... 11 Alaskan Wilderness Outfitting Company 5 5 Alaska’s Fish Tales Lodge ...... 57 Honda Marine ...... 27 Deep Creek Log Cabin Sporting Goods . . . . . 57 Lodge Runner ...... 53 Bottom Line Charters ...... 10 McFarland’s Floatel ...... 57 Norvise ...... 21 Dillingham Quinhagak Rogue Jet Boatworks ...... 29 Nushagak River Adventures . . . .8, 63 Reel Action Alaska Lodge ...... 60 SeaArk Boats ...... 26 Dutch Harbor Sitka Skinner Sights ...... 54 Keepin’ It Reel Charters Unlimited . . 74 Alaska Premier Charters ...... 56 TEMPRESS ...... 28 Haines Vonnie’s Charters @ Halibut Point Lodge 5 6 International Outfitter Sporting Goods ...... 52 Soldotna Bradley Smoker ...... 40 Holitna River Alaska Drift Away Fishing . . . . . 15 Alaskan Adventures ...... 46 Alaskan Fishing Adventures . . . . .12 had a nick or other weak spot to have this fish? Then it hit me. My fishing broken so easily. I rested the place for a companion that day was a known user of few minutes while I tied on a new fly but fluorocarbon tippets. Fluorocarbon has a El Diablo wasn’t able to get a second take when I smaller diameter per pound test than my By Kelly Pinnell tried again. The next day was a repeat of monofilament and, therefore, would be There is a fish that occasionally haunts the first, except that I was sure the tippet harder to see at heavier tests. my dreams. I call him El Diablo. A title was in good shape before it snapped. I got out of the river and walked up it earned by resisting every attempt to The following morning, I rushed to to where my buddy was fishing. I asked catch the damn thing. It was a rainbow, the spot with a heavier ten-pound tippet. him for some fluorocarbon in anything of that much I am certain. It was easily Try as I might I couldn’t get a strike. I around eight-pound-test. He had seven twenty-four inches and I knew where dropped down to eight-pound and still or seven-and-a-half if I remember right. it lived. couldn’t draw a bite. I re-rigged with Perfect. I was feeling pretty good about The first time I met the rainbow was six-pound and got a strike the third my prospects even though I had problems on an early summer day. I had filled my cast through. But, again, it snapped the with that type of material before. Mostly limit of sockeye earlier that morning and leader with a savage headshake after the with the knots that tended to unravel if was now poking around the quiet spots in strike. This was its modus operandi. they were not tied more carefully than between the pools of salmon and salmon The problem filled my mind over the the more forgiving mono. fishermen. I find that, on this particular next few days while I was back in town I went back only to have to sit and river, the intense salmon fishing pressure working. The situation was obvious—it wait while a group of fishermen stood during the first run of sockeye tends to wouldn’t hit on a heavy tippet and would close to the spot and discussed where move the big rainbows out of the larger break any light tippet. I had been fishing they should start salmon fishing. I was pools and into more marginal water. an egg pattern and wondered if I could silently cursing them for every shadow Small pockets, tiny bends covered with get away with a larger leader if I had a they flashed over the honey spot as vegetation, cut banks, and small sloughs larger fly. The next trip down I tried a they pointed and gestured. They finally are the places I focus on. It was in one larger flesh-fly pattern tied on eight- decided and moved off downstream. I such spot, a small pocket of deeper water pound-test. I made several casts through sat for about 10 more minutes and then under a Sitka rose bush in full bloom the holding water without a bump. For checked my rig, knots and all, to be sure that I found the fish. grins I dropped down to six-pound-test I had everything right. It took on my first cast through the again and wasn’t too surprised when the I got a take on the first cast through promising water. Unfortunately, it tippet broke on the strike. I stood there and was able to pull the big hook-nosed snapped my six-pound tippet on the scratching my head. head partially out of the water as we strike. I assumed the leader must have How in the world was I going to catch fought for a full two seconds. Then it was gone. It didn’t feel like the leader had broken but the fish was definitely not on the line any longer. I pulled line in and shook my head as I saw the telltale curly cue at the end of my tippet. The knot had come undone. I could only laugh. I tried again with a new fly and a different type of knot. But it was no use. I knew I would only get one strike per day from that devilish fish. I went back to the same river several more times over the next few months and always tried the spot. It didn’t matter what I used. I either had too heavy of a tippet to entice a strike or one too light to hold it when I could get a hit. I never did figure it out and when I returned later that fall the water levels had dropped to a point that the spot wasn’t holding much water let alone a trout. The next year the small island that the hole was tucked behind had been washed away during the spring runoff, ruining the spot. So I raise my rod to you El Diablo. You won.

Author Kelly Pinnell is a long-time Alaskan and fly fisherman. His books includeThe Dolly Made Me Do It and The ABC’s of Reading Alaska’s Small Rivers and Streams. He enjoys standing in water and waving sticks at fish.

June 2018 www.FishAlaskaMagazine.com 75