FENDI BACK IN FRAGRANCE/5 NORDSTROM IN BOSTON/10 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • July 20, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty Fusion Play MILAN — Prada has tapped the root of the iris pallida fl ower for what it hopes will be its biggest-selling fragrance. Called Infusion d’Iris, the scent will be launched this fall in 40 countries and it could generate as much as $50 million in global retail sales. For more, see page 4.

Explosion’s Aftermath: Dramatic Retail Falloff In N.Y.’s Midtown Area By Sharon Edelson and Rosemary Feitelberg NEW YORK — Retail activity in the Grand Central Terminal district slowed to barely a trickle Thursday in the aftermath of an underground steam- pipe explosion that restricted access to the area and left asbestos-coated debris. Mayor Michael Bloomberg said during a news conference that, in a “best-case scenario,” it would take “several days” for the neighborhood to return to normalcy. “Safety is our number-one priority and we’re not going to compromise that,” he said. The landmark terminal on Manhattan’s See Retailers, Page 3 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 WWD.COM VF Earnings Slip, Revenues Up By Ross Tucker tic revenues rose 10 percent. Jeanswear, the company’s largest and oldest seg- WWDFRIDAY F Corp. posted another quarter of record rev- ment, saw revenues increase 2.7 percent to $655.4 mil- Beauty Venue growth despite completing the sale of its lion from $638.2 million. International revenues spiked intimate apparel business, which deflated second- 14 percent, led by the Lee brand and developing GENERAL quarter earnings. markets such as China, Russia and India. Revenues Retail activity in the Grand Central Terminal district slowed to barely a For the three months ended June 30, the in the domestic market were fl at year-to-year. trickle Thursday in the aftermath of an underground steam-pipe explosion. Greensboro, N.C.-based company reported that Eric Wiseman, president and chief operating 1 earnings slid 17.5 percent to $81.7 million, or 74 offi cer, said India and China represented some The sale of its intimate apparel unit defl ated second-quarter profi ts at VF cents a diluted share, compared with $99 million, of the greatest near-term opportunities for jeans- 2 Corp., but couldn’t keep it from another quarter of record sales growth. or 90 cents, in the same period a year ago. wear. Wiseman said the company will fi nish the BEAUTY: With a new scent called Infusion d’Iris, Prada is betting one of The decline stemmed from the sale of the inti- year with about 140 stores in India, double the perfumery’s key ingredients will yield its best-selling fragrance to date. mates division, which had a negative impact on re- unit count from the beginning of the year. 4 sults of more than $24 million during the quarter. VF In addition, Wiseman said: “While still a rela- After lying low for nearly two decades, Fendi’s fragrance division is set announced in January that it had reached a deal to tively small business for us, our jeanswear busi- 5 to unleash a new women’s scent called Fendi Palazzo. sell the intimates segment, which includes the Vanity ness [in China] continues to grow at an annual Even though its fi rst store in Boston doesn’t open until September, Fair, Lily of France, Vassarette and Bestform brands, rate of more than 40 percent.” Nordstrom already has 3,000 credit card holders in the area. to Fruit of the Loom for $350 million. The company VF’s sportswear segment saw revenues increase 10 said the labels were no longer in keeping with the 8.8 percent to $153.7 million from $141.2 million, Brazil’s two major fashion events offered retailers strikingly different strategy of developing a portfolio of lifestyle brands. spurred by gains of more than 25 percent in the 12 choices in terms of style and price, and price often won out. Earnings from continuing operations rose 18 Kipling and John Varvatos brands. During the con- A Congressional conference committee approved 100 percent scanning percent to $105.8 million compared with $89.6 mil- ference call, Wiseman added that Varvatos sales lion in the year-ago period. were up 50 percent during the quarter. Nautica also 14 of U.S.-bound cargo containers at all foreign ports within fi ve years. Revenues reached record levels for the quar- experienced an increase of 6 percent, although the Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 ter, expanding 12.3 percent to $1.52 billion, driven company expects that building the women’s busi- by gains across all the company’s business seg- ness will be a “slow and steady” process. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. ments. Sales rose 12.6 percent to $1.5 billion from The March acquisition of Majestic Athletic re- [email protected], using the individual’s name. $1.33 billion, while royalty income fell 7.9 percent sulted in a 22 percent rise in revenues for the com- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT to $17 million from $18.4 million. pany’s imagewear segment, reaching $229.9 million ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 194, NO. 14. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one “Within our industry, there does appear to be from $188.5 million. Majestic is a global provider of additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three a fair amount of restructuring and positioning authentic sports licensed apparel and branded team additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance under way,” Mackey McDonald, chairman and uniforms for Major League Baseball, and added an Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by chief executive offi cer, said during a conference additional $45 million to second-quarter results. Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human call with analysts. “Fortunately, the strategy that For the fi rst six months, earnings slid 3.2 percent Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail we initially launched in 2004 has proven to be ex- to $220 million, or $1.93 a share, from $227.2 mil- Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return actly the right one for those changing times.” lion, or $2.02 a share. Earnings from continuing op- undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Strong growth in domestic and international erations rose 15 percent to $239.9 million compared 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE markets resulted in the company’s outdoor segment with $207.7 million a year ago. Revenues rose 13.7 INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit posting a 20.4 percent revenue increase to reach percent to $3.19 billion from $2.81 billion. Sales in- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production $446.7 million from $371 million. The Reef and creased 13.9 percent to $3.15 billion from $2.77 bil- correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, North Face brands each posted double-digit do- lion. Royalty revenues fell 1 percent to $37 million. please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other mestic sales gains during the quarter, but it was the The outdoor segment led gains, jumping 30.2 Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. growth in international markets that drove home percent to $985.5 million from $756.7 million a If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA the strength of VF’s growing portfolio of lifestyle year ago. Jeanswear revenues rose 5.5 percent to 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, brands. The North Face, Vans, Kipling, Napapijri, $1.41 billion from $1.34 billion, and imagewear OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED Eastpak and Reef all achieved growth of more than revenues were up 16 percent to $443.6 million MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR 35 percent during the quarter. International reve- from $382.5 million. Sportswear sales fell 0.7 per- CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR nues ultimately increased 48 percent, while domes- cent to $302.1 million. DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Aeffe IPO Concludes With Strong Demand Quote of the Week MILAN — Aeffe SpA’s initial public offering Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini. ended Wednesday with requests for almost two Aeffe shares will start trading on the Milan times the number of shares, but on the lower end stock exchange’s STAR segment for small com- “When I fi rst got called, I almost fell of the offer’s initial price range. panies on July 24. The Italian fashion company’s Mediobanca and Merrill Lynch International, initial market capitalization, based on the fi nal out of my chair. I didn’t expect to be the IPO’s coordinators, set Aeffe’s fi nal price IPO price, will be about 440.2 million euros, or at 4.10 euros, or $5.66 at current exchange, per $607.4 million. offered such a good position from such share, the minimum end of a price range that Aeffe is selling 34.8 million shares, or about ran as high as 5.40 euros, or $7.45, per share. 32 percent of its capital, in the IPO. The banks an iconic and legendary name.’’ At that price, the IPO will generate about have not yet stated whether or not they will 78 million euros, or $107.6 million, for Aeffe’s exercise an overallotment option, or green- — Marco Zanini, Halston’s new creative director coffers, the company said in a statement. Aeffe shoe, and sell an additional 5.2 million shares plans to use the IPO-generated funds to develop in the company. its portfolio of fashion brands, including Alberta — Amanda Kaiser In Brief

● FIRST NHL FLAGSHIP: The National Hockey League and Nike Suspends Release of Vick Shoe Reebok are launching the first NHL flagship in Manhattan. Located in New York at 1185 Avenue of the Americas, the store, ike Inc. said Thursday that it is suspending the release of the latest product line named after with 3,750 square feet of retail space, is scheduled to open in NAtlanta Falcons quarterback Michael Vick, who has been indicted on federal charges of spon- October. The architecture and fixtures draw inspiration from soring dogfighting. hockey, and highlights will include a sculpture made from more The active company’s decision to delay the Zoom Vick V athletic shoe came two days after the than 400 hockey sticks floating over the cash desk, a wall made 27-year-old football star and three codefendants were indicted on charges of organizing a dogfi ght- of ice and high-definition monitors running clips and real-time ing ring in which the animals were often executed by hanging or electrocution. If convicted, Vick games. The store will carry women’s, men’s and children’s faces as much as six years in prison and fi nes of $350,000. He has been under contract with Nike NHL-licensed apparel including jerseys, NHL-licensed head- since 2001. wear and accessories, Rbk footwear and apparel and select “Nike is concerned by the serious and highly disturbing allegations made against Michael Vick, NHL equipment. and we consider any cruelty to animals inhumane and abhorrent,” the company said in a state- ment. “We do believe that Michael Vick should be afforded the same due process as any citizen, ● WESTFIELD PROJECT: Mall developer The Westfi eld Group therefore, we have not terminated our relationship. We have however made the decision to sus- said it will build a $750 million outdoor retail complex that con- pend the release of the Zoom Vick V and related marketing communications. Nike will continue to nects two of its existing malls in Los Angeles’ San Fernando monitor the situation closely and has no further comment at this time.” Valley. The Village in Warner Center, which will include a 300- The launch of the Zoom Vick V, the fi fth generation of the shoe, which retails for $100, was room hotel, 150 condominiums and apartments, offi ce space and scheduled for Aug. 23, but Nike is pushing it back indefi nitely. 550,000 square feet of shops and restaurants, will act as a retail The existing Vick footwear and three different styles of graphic T-shirts will remain in store, a bridge between the Westfi eld Topanga and Westfi eld Promenade Nike spokesman said. shopping centers. They are located roughly a city block away Vick is to appear at a bond hearing and be arraigned on the charges Thursday in Richmond, the from each other. Construction is expected to begin in 2009. same day the Falcons begin training camp. The combined square footage of all three malls, located in the — Whitney Beckett Canoga Park neighborhood, will be 3.8 million square feet. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 3 WWD.COM Macy’s Trading Tapers Off, Analysts Weigh In

By Erica Owen ecute a series of sale leasebacks, in which Macy’s could sell its property and lease it back from the buyer for a fi xed amount of time. Second, it could split the company in NEW YORK — With investors speculating about the ability of Kohlberg Kravis & two, with its operations and real estate as separate entities. Finally, Litt said Macy’s Roberts to acquire Macy’s Inc., trading leveled off as Citigroup put the largest U.S. could sell off its individual real estate assets one by one. department store operator on its list of companies with undervalued real estate — “We estimate there is $9.3 billion in real estate value for the owned stores and $2.6 billion in saying it sees a 25 percent upside to the current share price. real estate value for the leased stores,” Litt wrote. “There could be another $2 billion to $3 bil- In a research note Thursday, Citigroup analyst Jonathan Litt valued Macy’s at lion in value for the most valuable stores depending on their ownership or lease structures.” $25.57 billion, or $53.66 a share. The fi gure is a 26.6 percent premium over the stock’s The analyst estimated that Macy’s owns 54 percent of its stores, or 463 units; leases Thursday closing price of $42.40, and $1.66 more than the $52 a share, or $24 billion, 32 percent, or 273 stores, and has ground leases on 14 percent, or 122 of its stores. which KKR is said to have offered. Litt’s estimates were based on assumed rent of 4.5 percent of sales, which he noted WWD reported Thursday that KKR wants to close on a deal for Macy’s, formerly is “well below the level of in-line mall tenants of around 10 percent to 13 percent, but known as Federated Department Stores Inc., but that turmoil in the debt fi nancing well above the levels department stores paid when they initially leased the space.” markets might get in the way. Neither KKR nor Macy’s has commented. In another research note, Morgan Stanley analyst Michelle Clark valued Macy’s In his report, Litt said that Macy’s operations, independent of real estate asset owned real estate at $9.2 billion, $6.4 billion after debt, liabilities and other costs. sales, could be worth $20.5 billion. Asset sales might boost that fi gure to $43.75 billion. “If a leveraged buyout is not announced over the near-term, we see a downside Subtracting debt and liabilities would leave the net asset value at $25.57 billion. risk to Macy’s shares back to the $38 level — similar to previous price action following Litt noted that Macy’s inclusion on the Citigroup list wasn’t connected to recent LBO speculation — as the focus shifts back to fundamentals,” Clark wrote. “We con- speculation about the retailer’s future. tinue to believe the issues at the converted May Co. locations are structural in nature He said Macy’s could capture its real estate value three ways. First, it could ex- and could take longer than two to three years to fi x.” Retailers Hit Hard After Grand Central Blast Continued from page one Several stores in the passage were closed. fort, creating a “frozen zone” between 40th and 43rd east side, which is a centerpiece for tens of thousands “We’re waiting in case they do happen to open Streets and Vanderbilt and Third Avenues, closing of rail and subway commuters each day and contains [the Lexington Avenue entrance to the terminal], said traffi c to pedestrians and vehicles. City offi cials also scores of stores, restaurants and other businesses, ap- Jenny Robayo, a sales associate at Toto, a handbag shut portions of Lexington and Park Avenues as well peared almost deserted before noon on Thursday, and shop. “We usually do $3,500 a day in sales.” as East 42nd Street and other side streets. The only ac- commercial activity wasn’t much better elsewhere in Susan Freeman, the co-owner of accessories store cess into the terminal was through the MetLife build- the neighborhood. La Craisa, said, “I’ve made one sale today. We’ve been ing on 47th Street. Subway service was fully restored “I don’t think there will be any customers today,” through 9/11, the blackout and the subway strike threat. Thursday afternoon. Also on Thursday, the east side said Melissa Smart, the assistant manager at Erwin We won’t make any money today, but we’ll bring in new of Third Avenue between 40th and 41st Streets was Pearl, a shop in the terminal’s Lexington Avenue merchandise and label it. We certainly won’t cover our reopened to pedestrians. Lexington Avenue from 37th Passage. “Our goal for yesterday was $2,471 and we expenses, but we take the good with the bad.” to 38th Street remains closed, and could be closed at only did $1,089. [The explosion] happened during rush A police offi cer standing guard at Vanderbilt and least until early next week, Bloomberg said. hour when we get most of our business.” East 42nd Street said she had been turning away En route to Grand Central Station, Joan Broder Terminal retailers such as Kenneth Cole and people who were trying to get to Banana Republic, of Purchase, N.Y., practically had the Modell’s sport- Banana Republic remained closed on Thursday. The Kenneth Cole and other nearby East 42nd Street ing goods store on East 42nd Street to herself when stores, which have facades on 42nd Street, are not ac- stores. Under a small tent on East 44th Street near she bought running clothes for her husband. She also cessible through Grand Central. Vanderbilt Avenue, a representative from the Offi ce of shopped at Saks Fifth Avenue earlier in the day, and A Kenneth Cole spokeswoman said the company’s Emergency Management distributed protective masks didn’t think twice about going to Midtown. Grand Central store became “Being a New Yorker, you an impromptu shelter just sort of get immune to it. You after the rush-hour blast. “At can’t stop doing what you 6 p.m. [Wednesday] customers do. You can get killed walk- came into our store seeking ing across the street.” refuge,” she said. “They went Modell’s kept its doors to the basement and the stock- open to try to woo pedes- room. They thought it was a trians passing by. Instead of bomb and that they would CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY having four or fi ve cashiers be safe in the basement. The ringing up purchases, which store employees let anybody is typical, the retailer only in and put them wherever they needed one. What few shop- wanted to go. At 6:15, police pers there were in the store came and told [everyone] they sailed right through the had to evacuate the store.” checkout. Security guard The Grand Central store Jermaine Osborne said, is one of Cole’s busiest, the “Usually, there would defi - spokeswoman said, adding, nitely be a line here.” “We’re waiting to hear when At Johnston & Murphy’s we’re allowed to open.” customer-free Madison A spokesman for Gap Inc. Avenue store, a saleswoman said, “Because of the debris stared absently out the win- around the outside, we’ve had dow, fl ossing her teeth. to stay closed. We think we’ll Business was closer to be able to open the Banana normal a bit farther from store in a day or two.” the blast site, on Madison At Gap’s store on Third Avenue. At Daffy’s, Alicia Avenue at 42nd Street, sales- Looking west from Third Avenue and 42nd Street. Mullenix said she had no people far outnumbered the qualms about shopping in few shoppers who wandered the area. “The mayor said in, and the store was considering closing an hour or to police offi cers and other authorized personnel. that it’s not terrorist-related,” she said. two earlier than normal. Sales associate Berlinda The blast occurred shortly before 6 p.m. Wednesday Ria Archie, fl oor manager for Daffy’s women’s de- Letang said, “It’s been really slow and quiet.” near 41st Street and Lexington Avenue as the rush partment, said, “People are still shopping. We still had Two Gap shoppers, who asked not to be named, said hour was in full swing and in the height of the sum- the usual rush between 1 and 3 p.m. today.” they only came into the store because One block north, at J. Crew, Lauren they were surprised it was open. DeStefano said she left work early to shop At Origins, located in Grand Central, for vacation clothes, since her Helmsley sales associate Phyllis Bowling was the I don’t think there will be any customers today. Building office had no air-conditioning only person in the store. “This is impact- “ — Melissa Smart, Erwin ”Pearl because of the repair work. Unfortunately, ing our business in a big way,” she said, that J. Crew location didn’t have any cen- noting that the store usually takes in tral air, either. $2,000 to $3,000 a day. “Yesterday was wild. I walked out mer tourism season. One woman died and as many Across the street, Brooks Brothers had a smatter- to the window and saw this big black geyser. The noise as 45 people were injured when a 24-inch steam pipe ing of shoppers, but sales associate Anibal Jesus noted was incredible. We came back and closed the store.” dating from 1924 exploded in a geyser of smoke, mud that some of the store’s regulars have been affected Kaytee Stoppe, manager of Pink Slip, a lingerie and other debris, sparking fears of a terror attack. by the frozen zone. “Some of our customers come into shop in the terminal’s Lexington Passage, said, “Today Authorities speculated that it might have been caused Grand Central and they can’t cross the streets as they will be a washout and pretty much the rest of the when cold water from heavy rains got into the pipe. normally would. The traffi c patterns have changed.” week. We’ll reduce our staff, which is me. We usually Test results of solid debris and dust were positive Almost 900 businesses are within the jurisdiction do $3,000 to $4,000 a day and Thursday and Friday are for asbestos, but city offi cials said there was not asbes- of the Grand Central Partnership, a business develop- our busiest days. We’re just going to stay on top of it tos in the air and minimized any health concerns. ment group. About 10 percent are stores that sell ap- and cut corners where we can.” Emergency crews launched a huge cleanup ef- parel and accessories. 4 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 The Beauty Report Prada Infuses Heritage Into New Scent By Stephanie Epiro and Matthew W. Evans MILAN — With a new scent called Infusion d’Iris, Prada is betting one of perfum- ery’s most valuable ingredients — the root of the Florentine iris pallida flower — will yield the fashion house’s best-selling fragrance to date. In conjunction with fragrance licensee Puig Beauty & Fashion Group, Prada will introduce an eau de parfum called Infusion d’Iris this fall in 40 countries, with the U.S. getting it fi rst in September, followed by Europe that same month and Asia in October. “It’s the biggest launch in the Prada portfolio,” said Jose Manuel Albesa, general manager of Fragrance and Skincare SL. The business unit is a 50-50 joint venture of Prada and Puig. “We expect it to be number one in terms of volume,” said Albesa. Infusion d’Iris is the fashion house’s third major fragrance and it follows Prada’s signature women’s scent from 2004 and Amber Pour Homme last year. Patrizio Bertelli, chief executive offi cer of Prada SpA, said in a statement, “Our objective with this new perfume is to amplify the Prada Parfums line and strength- en the presence of our brand in this sector, where Prada is growing — at the same time upholding the values of quality, innovation and respect for tradition.” Miuccia Prada worked with perfumer Daniela Andrier from Givaudan to create Infusion d’Iris, which was developed over a two-year period. Iris, the fragrance’s prevalent olfactory note, is at the heart of the scent. “Miuccia Prada wanted to in- terpret the iris note in a modern way,” said Albesa. The fragrance is balanced by top notes of orange blossom and mandarin, as well as base notes of galbanum, lentisc, benzoin, incense, vetiver and cedarwood. Puig executives said that notes like vetiver and cedarwood, which are often found in men’s scents, differentiate Infusion d’Iris from other women’s scents. “The fragrance is very modern — it has nothing to do with feminine stereotypes,” Jordi Puig, general manager of Puig USA, said during an interview in New York. An ad visual for Infusion d’Iris, Prada’s newest scent. “Strong ingredient contrast contributes to the freshness of the fragrance.” The fl acon of Infusion d’Iris was inspired by vintage fragrance bottles. It is meant Beauty & Fashion Group, including Prada, in the U.S. prestige market. And, while to convey the brand’s tradition visually, considering a silver plate on the glass fl acon Prada fragrances are carried in a total of 1,300 doors in the U.S., “We fi rst want features the rope-bordered Prada crest, which was designed by Prada’s grandfather, to see the results and then build [Infusion d’Iris],” said Puig. “We’re building the Mario, in 1913. Prada [fragrance] franchise little by little.” It’s the fi rst fragrance to feature Prada’s original 94-year-old logo, and, as a re- The Infusion d’Iris line will be available in fi ve sizes, including three sprays — at sult, the designer said she felt like she was working on her fi rst fragrance for the $67 for 50 ml., $90 for 100 ml. and $125 for 200 ml. Splash versions of the scent will come house. The bottle, which was designed by Prada, is accented in pale green, as is its in a 400-ml. bottle for $210 and a 750-ml. size for $350. Each of the two latter sizes comes outer packaging, a color that’s considered a signature hue of the house. with a silver decanter funnel and a 30-ml. splash bottle. All prices are for the U.S. “It’s an evolution of the portfolio, it refl ects the rich, luxury heritage of Prada as An eight-item, ancillary line that will accompany the scent is tantamount to a bath well as innovation, a sense of tradition and uncompromisable quality,” said Albesa. and home care collection in itself. The range includes a shower gel, 250 ml. for $45; “The whole concept is to mix Prada’s past with elements from its future.” a body lotion, 250 ml. for $50; a 500-gram jar of bath salts for $70, and a set of two Albesa expects Infusion d’Iris “to perform very well,” but he declined to com- perfumed soaps for $40. There’s also a candle for $75, a 1-liter bottle of linen water ment on a sales fi gure. Industry sources, though, estimate that numbers could hit for $75, a pack of cotton towelettes for $60 and perfumed drawer inserts for $60. $50 million at retail globally during its fi rst year on the market. Steven Meisel photographed a worldwide print advertising campaign for Infusion “It will take Prada to the next level and we are very excited to see the results,” d’Iris in Los Angeles. Art director Ezra Petronio worked in conjunction with Miuccia said Albesa. He added that Infusion d’Iris should help continue the double-digit sales Prada to create the campaign. The image features Russian model Sasha Pivovarova growth the Prada beauty business has experienced for the past two years, which was touching the fragrance with leather-gloved hands. recently fueled by the performance of Prada’s men’s scent. “It achieved top fi ve in the “It’s a vintage bottle with a strong woman of today,” Puig said of the visual. U.K. and some other markets and we are excited about that,” said Albesa. Albesa said the investment behind Infusion d’Iris was substantial, though he Infusion d’Iris will initially be available in September at Saks Fifth Avenue’s wouldn’t break down the numbers. He said that compared to Prada’s preceding New York fl agship, 30-plus Neiman Marcus locations and 12 Prada boutiques. Also fragrance launches, Infusion d’Iris would have a larger global distribution network in September, the scent will be launched in European countries like the U.K., of 10,000 doors and a bigger advertising budget. Industry sources speculate the ad- France and Italy. vertising and promotional budget could range from $15 million to $25 million. In October, Infusion d’Iris will reach Asian markets like Hong Kong and Japan, In the U.S., industry sources estimate the scent could generate between $12 mil- as well as the Middle East. Then, in November, the scent will experience a roll- lion and $14 million in retail sales during the fourth quarter and that about $6.5 out in the U.S. to about 250 doors, including additional Saks locations, Bergdorf million would be spent to promote the scent in the U.S. Goodman, Nordstrom, Barneys New York and Bloomingdale’s. Latin America will “We’ll have a very strong campaign,” said Puig, who noted that single- and dou- get the scent in 2008. ble-page print ads will break in the October issues of fashion, beauty and lifestyle The prestige division of Coty Inc. distributes the fragrances marketed by the Puig magazines in the U.S. MD Skincare Readies Quartet of Detoxifying Serums for Fall he doctor is in and he’s prescribing a series of Hydra-Pure Antioxidant Firming Serum is intended Hydra-Pure Redness Soothing Serum is a formula Tnew serums. to help resurface the skin via a microencapsulated de- intended to deal with not just one but all three of the The doctor in question is MD Skincare founder livery system, Gross noted. “The technology is further possible causes of excessive redness: infl ammation, Dennis Gross, M.D., who will roll out four serums enhanced with the Hydra-Pure Chelating Complex, rosacea and fl ushing, said Gross. He also recommends this fall. which makes this serum even more effective,” ex- that patients use it after having laser treatments. In ad- Each serum is intended to address a dif- plained Gross. “Antioxidants on their own dition to the Chelating Complex, Redness Smoothing ferent skin concern, but all share one com- can’t neutralize heavy metals, but when Serum’s key ingredients are bisabolol, an anti-infl am- mon ingredient: the brand’s Hydra-Pure you pair them with the Chelating Complex, matory ingredient sourced from chamomile, which is Chelating Complex, which Gross says detox- they can.” The formula includes emblica, said to reduce infl ammation; gatuline, designed to pre- ifi es heavy metals in water and on the skin. an herb that is said to be a potent antioxi- vent dilation of blood vessels and reduce redness, and “Chelators deactivate heavy metals, dant; genistein, added to stimulate colla- dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and cucumber extract, which cause overproduction of melanin gen production; linoleic acid, believed to both of which are said to soothe and calm the skin. It and block the resynthesis of pigmentation help rebuild cells, and grapeseed extract, will retail for $85 for 1 oz., according to Carrie Gross, in the skin,” said Gross. which was included to help ward off free chief executive offi cer of MD Skincare. Hydra-Pure Radiance Renewal Serum radicals. It will retail for $95 for 1 oz. Executives declined to discuss sales projections, is intended to address and prevent skin Hydra-Pure Vitamin C Serum is intend- but industry sources estimated that the group of se- discoloration caused by excessive mela- ed to repair skin damage caused by aging, rums would do between $15 million and $18 million nin, said Gross. In addition to the Hydra- sun, stress and poor nutrition. It combines at retail in their fi rst year on counter. Pure Chelating Complex, the item’s for- the Chelating Complex with three forms MD Skincare is currently available in about 1,200 mula includes diacetyl boldine. It is said of vitamin C — ascorbyl acid, a water-sol- specialty store and spa doors in the U.S., includ- to lighten the appearance of melasma. New items from uble form; sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ing Nordstrom, Sephora and Bergdorf Goodman. The formula also contains vitamins A, C MD Skincare. a water-soluble form, and ascorbyl pal- Internationally, it is available in Australia, Japan, and E, designed to help add radiance to mitate, a lipid-soluble form that is said Hong Kong, Korea and Mexico, among other coun- the skin. Green tea extract was added to help reverse to enhance penetration into the skin. Linoleic acid tries, noted Stefani Thionnet, executive vice president sun damage, and retinol was included to stimulate in the formula delivers vitamin C under the skin to of MD Skincare. The company also operates an e-com- collagen production and inhibit its breakdown. The avoid irritation, said Gross. It will retail for $90 for merce and informational Web site, mdskincare.com. product will retail for $95 for 1 oz. 1 oz. — Julie Naughton PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 5

WWD.COM Fendi Back in the Fragrance Game ROME — After lying low for nearly two decades, Fendi’s fragrance division is set to Penned by Lagerfeld’s muse Amanda Harlech, Palazzo the book will be sold in unleash a new women’s scent called Fendi Palazzo in the fall. selective independent bookstores, as well as Colette, starting in the fall. Fendi executives said they expect the scent to write a new chapter in the Rome- The Fendi Palazzo fragrance will be distributed to a total of 1,500 doors in U.S., based fashion house’s fragrance business. Fendi Palazzo is Fendi’s fi rst major fra- Canada and Europe beginning in September. Asia will get the fragrance in 2008. grance launch in collaboration with the company’s distribution partner, Christian Michael Burke, chief executive offi cer of Fendi, said the scent’s distribution net- Dior Perfumes and Cosmetics. It’s also Fendi’s fi rst launch since the mid-Eighties. work would progressively grow along with the Fendi’s fragrance portfolio, which is Industry sources estimate Fendi Palazzo could generate as much as $50 million to include a men’s scent for next year and another women’s scent in 2009. in global retail sales during its fi rst year on counter. Burke added that all previous Fendi fragrances had been removed Creation of the new scent involved the collective input of Karl from the market, following the end of its beauty licensing agreement Lagerfeld, the fashion house’s women’s wear designer for more than with YSL Beauté two years ago. 40 years, and Silvia Venturini Fendi, head accessories and men’s “We looked at fragrance in a strategic way,” said Burke. “We let wear designer. It marked the fi rst time the designers worked together the old license lapse and let two years go by with no product on on a Fendi fragrance project. the marketplace, which allows us to come into the market with a The designers celebrated the fragrance launch with a recent din- fragrance like it was our fi rst fragrance, but you have to have the ner and exhibition of photos from a Fendi Palazzo ad campaign that luxury to do that.” were shot by Lagerfeld at the Fendi Palazzo in the center of Rome. Burke, who predicted Fendi’s beauty business will account for 10 Venturini Fendi said during an interview prior to the festivities that percent of the company’s total turnover in fi ve years, said he didn’t she became immersed in the fragrance-making process very quickly. dismiss diversifying into other beauty-related ventures. “It would “It was fun; it was totally new, I liked the process because it involves be quite easy to do a beauty line. It would be quite easy to do a spa thinking and psychology,” she said. line — I can clearly see that in the future, but for now we need to “This fragrance is for a very particular type of woman, one who is build things solidly,” said Burke, adding, “I’m sure this is going to really feminine but very strong — sophisticated, but particularly sure be a great fi rst step; we think the new fragrance is phenomenal.” of herself,” said Venturini Fendi. “I wanted that the woman who is Created by Patrick Demarchy, Dior’s in-house perfumer, Fendi wearing this fragrance would enter a room and everyone would ask, Palazzo is a fl owery-woody scent, which opens with top notes of ‘But what is that scent?’ ” mandarin orange, bergamot, lemon and pink pepper; it has middle When asked if the Fendi Palazzo target audience bore any resem- notes of orange blossom, jasmine and Bulgarian rose and base notes blance to her mother and aunts, who founded the company, Venturini of patchouli and Gaiac wood. Fendi said she was inspired “by memories of my mother and her friends, The Fendi Palazzo bottle, which was designed by Lagerfeld and when they came over to the house and they took off their fur coats. Fur is Venturini Fendi, features the facade of the company’s headquar- the only garment that cannot be washed so their scent remained.” ters on Via del Leoncino here. The scent’s tall, rectangular bottle When he shot the advertising campaign for Fendi Palazzo in is embossed with the gold facade at the back of the bottle. Its oval- January, Lagerfeld was also inspired by a strong female for the scent, shaped, plastic and metal cap features a pair of interlocking Fs. in this case embodied by model Raquel Zimmermann. Terry Darland, general manager for Christian Dior Perfumes Lagerfeld explained during an interview that the ad campaign for Fendi Palazzo North America, said she expected the fragrance to be received well Fendi Palazzo developed into an idea for a photo storybook, which the in the U.S. Darland added Fendi Palazzo would be distributed to a designer unveiled at the launch. Bearing the same name as the fragrance, the book total of 230 doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Palazzo depicts a Roman princess in a love quandary with her American suitor and the Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom. brother of an ex-lover, played by models Brad Kroenig and Jake Davis, respectively. Fendi Palazzo will be available in two eau de parfum sizes, 50 ml. for $65 and 90 “I invented for the ad what the Italians call a fumetto, a comic book but a very ml. for $85. A bath and body line that will accompany the scent includes a shimmer- chic one,” said Lagerfeld. “I liked the idea of describing the story, with a touch of ing body cream, 6.8 oz. for $42.50; a voluptuous body cream, 6.8 oz. for $65, and a Henry James. The story is of a very beautiful Roman princess — not at all red-carpet shower gel, 6.8 oz. for $40. bimbo — who is very chic and modern but at the same time very elegant.” — S.E. Suki Kramer Branches Into Makeup Lauder Unveils Private Collection erin Lauder stepped into history July 12 when Aerin osmetics industry newcomer Suki defi ner with evening primrose oils, a Ashe unveiled a new version of her grandmother Lauder CKramer is hitching her pure beau- pure cream lip and cheek stain with Estée’s classic Private Collection women’s scent. ty philosophy to the mineral makeup chamomile extract and a rich pigment The event, which took place at Saks Fifth Avenue, bandwagon with the introduction of mascara with organic rose extract. was a pre-sell preview of the offi cial launch of the Sukicolor Fresh Finish Mineral Cream When it comes to the formulas, Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, which is Makeup in August. Kramer keeps a tight watch on all steps scheduled to begin its rollout at Saks on July 29. In 2002, Kramer, who is based in of the mixing process. “Anytime an or- Shortly after a tarp was ceremoniously pulled Northampton, Mass., broke into the ganic product is made available, we aside at the event last week to reveal how the beauty industry with Sukipure Skin get it,” she said. Kramer said she uses Lauder counter was reconfi gured to feature the Care, an all-natural, organic skin care the European Ecocert system for certi- new fragrance, Aerin Lauder’s mother, Jo Carole line that caters to sensitive skin. Now fying organic ingredients because she Lauder, stepped forward to seal the occasion the new Sukicolor line, considers it more rigorous than the U.S. by making the fi rst purchase — a 2.5-oz. eau de which is due to bow Aug. Department of Agriculture grading sys- parfum with a hammered gold cap on the bottle, 1., represents a tem. Due to their lack of preservatives, priced at $120. blend of crushed Sukicolor products have a shelf life of In introducing Aerin Lauder, Stephen I. mineral pigment about 18 to 24 months. “I like to do things Sadove, chairman and chief executive offi cer of STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY with cream-based fresh in small batches,” said Kramer. Saks, pointed out that every major Lauder fragrance had been launched at his Sukipure skin “[Products] shouldn’t last forever if you store. William Lauder, president and ceo of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and Aerin’s care products. really want something active that’s going cousin, agreed that his company’s long history has been driven by its partnership The color formu- to affect your skin. You don’t want it sit- with Saks. Later, at a reception in the garden of the Museum of Modern Art, he sa- las are designed ting in a cabinet for fi ve years.” luted Aerin’s new role as “the next new chapter” of Lauder history. While watching to look natural on Because the colors are all in the the event from the crowd, Deborah Walters, senior vice president and general mer- the skin, elimi- MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY neutral family, Kramer chandise manager of cosmetics and fragrances at Saks, remarked, “This is going to nating the cakey encourages cus- be the rebirth of the brand with our customers. It will be a new era.” effect of pow- tomers to blend John Demsey, a group president who oversees the Lauder brand, pointed out that ders. “I wanted products to- the legacy of Lauder is its history of family members playing key roles right through something that gether to cre- the present generation. “It is a new level of aspiration of a new generation,” he said. looks like skin, ate a custom Aerin Lauder herself was quite humble in making her remarks. As senior vice something that palette. Since president and creative director of the Lauder brand, she usually oversees the looks like a part the line is advertising shoots. All of a sudden — at the suggestion of Demsey — she found Suki makeup. of you,” said strictly natural, herself posing as the face of the advertising. She said that after some refl ection, Kramer. Kramer tries it seemed right that someone with a connection to the brand should be the one Plagued with eczema as a child, to package the products only in bio- up front, rather than a hired celebrity or ambassador recruited from outside the Kramer says she has always had dif- degradable material. Above all, that company. “I am so proud of it,” she said of the resultant fragrance. “It feels right.” fi culty fi nding products that suit her excludes plastics. “I get so frustrated And this is not intended as a one-shot deal. A second fragrance is already in own skin care needs. Equally dissatis- with them,” Kramer said. Instead, the works. fi ed with the quality and performance Sukicolor products come in glass or Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, a six-stockkeeping-unit collection, will of organic cosmetics, Kramer decided aluminum containers and are cov- be rolled out to a maximum of 230 specialty store doors in the U.S. by the end of to take matters into her own hands ered in an aqueous coating so that the year. The company did not break out fi gures but industry sources estimate with the creation of her color line. they are recyclable. that this fragrance, driven by reports of a stronger than expected pre-sell at Saks, The Sukicolor line has a total of Sukicolor will be launched in more could generate about $7 million in retail sales globally its fi rst year. 20 stockkeeping units. The fi ve pri- than 200 retail stores and online at suki- But the biggest compliment of the night came from Ronald Lauder, chairman of mary products include a tinted active pure.com. The company is currently Clinique Laboratories Inc. “I have the title of honorary chairman of the Museum of moisturizer with white willow extract, in negotiations with Sephora, Kramer Modern Art,” he said, while standing in the shadow of the museum. “But the best a liquid formula concealer with vi- said, but plans are incomplete. title of all is the proud father of Aerin.” tamin liposomes, a triple-cream eye — Elizabeth Lee — Pete Born 6 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 The Beauty Report Cosmosprof Finds a Win With Discover Beauty NAHA Salutes Salon’s Best LAS VEGAS — Winners of this year’s North American Hairstyling Awards were named here Sunday night at the Mandalay Bay hotel. Likened to the Academy Awards of hairstyling, the event drew hundreds of stylists awaiting their fate, which was determined by a panel of beauty editors and stylists. Entries were narrowed down to fi ve fi nalists per category from more than 600 entries through a blind online judging process. The NAHA gala, in its 18th year, was hosted by “Entertainment Tonight” correspondent Steven Cojocaru. NAHA is presented by the Professional Beauty Association, a nonprofi t association that represents the inter- ests of the professional beauty industry from man- ufacturers and distributors to salons and spas.

Master Stylist of the Year Claudia Lucas, Ed Burstell and Robin Coe-Hutshing participated in a panel moderated by WWD. Dusty Simington Salon Gregorie’s of Newport Beach, Calif. By Andrea Nagel “First of all, never, never underestimate packaging. It’s the fi rst thing that will react with the consumer, it’s the fi rst Hairstylist of the Year LAS VEGAS — Cosmoprof organizers have taken a cue thing that they will ever see, it’s the fi rst experience they Allen Ruiz from mass market beauty show organizers and appar- will have with your product. I’ve seen the most amazing Jackson Ruiz Salon of Austin, Tex. ently have scored a home run. product in poor packaging and it’s a real travesty. Secondly, Cosmoprof North America celebrated its fi fth year in don’t think about your product in isolation. Think about Salon Team of the Year Las Vegas, from July 15 to 18, but this year’s show wowed how it would exist in a retail environment. Think about Pure retail buyer attendees by installing Discover Beauty, how it’s going to look on a shelf or a counter. Think about Montreal a program designed to guarantee face time between the other brands it’s going to sit alongside. You know, take emerging brands and buyers, representing stores such all of those things into consideration. And fi nally, space for Editorial Stylist of the Year as Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel, Studio at Fred retailers is at a premium. We don’t have elastic walls…so Michael Albor Segal, Sephora, Nordstrom, Cos Bar, Beauty Collection package your goods in an appropriate way.” The Loft Salon and Day Spa of Boston and Wynn Las Vegas Apothecary. The effort has been Bergdorf ’s Burstell shared his thoughts on brand po- hailed a success at mass beauty trade shows for several sitioning. “I really think it cannot be too well-defi ned. I Student Hairstylist of the Year years, such as Effi cient Collaborative Retail Marketing’s mean there are two words that I always keep right here Jess Zehnder various shows and NACDS Marketplace, since it elimi- when we think about looking at something new or enter- Aveda Fredric’s Institute of Indianapolis nates the chore of buyers needling through rows and taining the idea of bringing something in and they are rows of beauty booths to fi nd the newbies. ‘focus’ and…‘edit.’ And the fi rst thing I say is, ‘Tell me Makeup Artist of the Year One buyer, who last attended Cosmoprof’s inaugural about it, tell me about the brand, tell me about why you Maria Nguyen show in 2003, said this year’s effort was “very produc- think it has a niche in this market and exactly who you’re Milpitas, Calif. tive” compared with the fi rst, adding that at least one of trying to target.’ And then, [I want them to] tell me what the 12 exhibiting Discover Beauty participants — Skin their expectations are in terms of a retail partner. A lot Avant Garde Tech, a Swiss luxury men’s skin care line — was quite of the essence of the brand or where the brand really Anthony Cress/Kimmi Le newsworthy. Other standouts included Skin Nutrition should be positioned comes out of those questions.” Salon Gregorie’s of Newport Beach, Calif. from South Africa, an antiaging line, and Organic Coe-Hutshing talked frankly about her position on Apoteke, a natural skin care line out of the U.K. exclusivity: “I feel a little less strict about exclusivity Contemporary Classic Held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center, than [Lucas and Burstell] because I’m in a slightly dif- Bennie Pollard Cosmoprof overall attracted 699 companies and more ferent position. I feel much more concerned about chan- Hair by Bennie and Friends of Louisville, Ky. than 25,000 attendees, about 30 percent more attendees nels of distribution than I do about exclusivity partially than last year. The number of exhibitors remained rela- because people shop differently on the West Coast. It’s Fashion Forward tively unchanged with just 20 more attending this year a car culture, not a street culture, and people shop in Veronica Bessey versus last year, said show organizers. their neighborhoods and it’s just slightly different. Toni & Guy of Carrollton, Tex. Educational seminars and conferences were the other “So I’m much more concerned about where a brand is attraction for Cosmoprof attendees. This year, WWD going to position itself. We are in a different position than Haircolor moderated a panel discussion Monday morning on how stores like Bendel’s and Bergdorf ’s — Fred Segal doesn’t Sue Pemberton U.S. and foreign brands can best enter the U.S. market. do any advertising. We are a complete word-of-mouth Henderson, Nev. Panelists included Claudia Lucas, senior vice president, store. It’s sort of an anomaly in the business. We can sort general merchandise manager, Henri Bendel; Ed Burstell, of feed off of what other people do in the brand. We’re Salon Design senior vice president, general merchandise manager, ac- parasites, basically. And so it sometimes helps to have [a 6 Salon cessories, beauty and all nonapparel items, Bergdorf product] placed someplace else. So exclusivity to me, as George Nikollaj of Royal Oak, Mich. Goodman, and Robin Coe-Hutshing, founder and creative long as it’s placed in some place of value, is not as impor- director, Studio at Fred Segal. Approximately 250 people tant. These two can duke it out with their boxing gloves Texture attended the 60-minute panel, which covered three topics and then I’ll just sit back and get the sale,” she said. Steve Elias — product, packaging and distribution. Cosmoprof is scheduled to return to Las Vegas next Atelier Aveda of San Jose, Calif. On packaging, Lucas shared some of her pet peeves. year from July 13 to 15.

in time for the holidays, while limited edition T-shirts featuring Vidal Sassoon as a young stylist, as well as several of his famous coifs, aim to help raise money, Charity Builds Homes for Katrina Victims too. Many of the stylists have already posed for their photo shoot, which features each volunteer painted with a slogan that represents the LAS VEGAS — Vidal Sassoon refuses to let the victims of plight of a particular Katrina victim. In each photo, the Hurricane Katrina be forgotten. stylist holds a key to a home that no longer exists. Sassoon, royalty to those in the salon industry, is using In reaching out to the community, Sassoon and Rector- his star factor to raise awareness for a new charity he co- Gable have secured donations from 22 professional com- founded that is dedicated to generating money for build- panies, each of which will shell out at least enough funds ing homes in New Orleans, where just two years ago a to build one home, including TIGI Worldwide, Farouk force of nature nearly leveled the city, killed 1,836 people Systems, Kenra, Mizani, PureOlogy, Paul Mitchell Schools, and wiped out approximately 275,000 homes. Intercoiffure and Hair Cuttery. Bumble and bumble has com- To gain widespread attention from the salon and mitted to building at least two homes, Rector-Gable said. professional community, Sassoon reached out to Mary But the charity, while interested in tapping deep pock- Rector-Gable, the founder and operator of behindthe- ets, is also aimed at raising money from hairdressers — and chair.com, a Web site dedicated to stylists that receives their customers — worldwide who are eager to donate what- up to 600,000 unique hits each month from hairdress- ever they can for the cause. During the week of Aug. 22 to 29, ers around the world. Together the two have formed salons globally will donate funds from sales and donations Hairdressers Unlocking Hope, a charitable campaign to raise money for the new homes. Consumers can log onto A promotional vehicle for Hairdressers Unlocking Hope. benefi tting Habitat for Humanity, to raise funds to build whodoesyourhair.com to make donations, purchase products, homes. Sassoon himself has donated private funds to build two homes, at a cost of and fi nd a salon nearby that is participating in Hairdressers Unlocking Hope week. $85,000 per home, sparking the charity collaboration. Sassoon, in New York for several days to speak with beauty editors about the Rector-Gable spoke at length about the charity to captivated audiences several charity, admits that the industry he has been a part of for 66 years doesn’t immedi- times during her visit to Cosmoprof. Already, she said, Sassoon and she have garnered ately conjure images of philanthropy from the mainstream. the help of 43 stylists, including Ken Paves, Sally Hershberger and Garren, who have “We’re really not known for this,” Sassoon said. “But as an industry we can lent their images for the charity’s campaign. The images will be used on everything change that and build a new paradigm.” from bags to signage to appointment cards to promote the charity in salons. Already, the professional beauty industry has donated funds to build 22 homes. The images of the stylists will be turned into a coffee table book to be published — A.N. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 7

WWD.COM NACDS Discusses Key Findings in Mass Pantene Signs Hilary Swank

BOSTON — New products are the lifeblood of or bronzers, which also have become a new the beauty industry. But failed launches are classifi cation. As Face for Cancer Charity costly to buyers and sellers. There are also core products added to a Mass retailers laud hot beauty launches well-established category. Nice ’n Easy Root NEW YORK — Pantene, in partnership with the since they bring shoppers to their doors, Touch-Up could be considered a case study Entertainment Industry Foundation’s Women’s Cancer often from other channels and outlets. of this since it added vibrancy to the existing Research Fund, has tapped actress Hilary Swank to rep- However, a beauty bomb can be espe- hair color category. resent its Pantene Beautiful Lengths charity campaign for cially damaging since launches in cosmetics Trendsetter items that produce a quick the next year. typically require major planogram resets hit in the market need to be treated as a dif- The commitment for the two-time Academy Award win- and signifi cant marketing muscle. Ask any ferent type of launch with a different set of ner means appearing in print public service announce- merchant currently reshuffl ing space after expectations. This type of launch requires ments aiming to raise awareness for the charity, which is a few of last year’s missteps and you’ll hear rapid product development and retail de- dedicated to donating hair for cancer victims. Swank will the lament of new item failure. ployment. A color cosmetics launch would also grow, cut and donate her own hair to be made into With that in mind, the National fi t into this area. a wig for cancer patients. All wigs are made by Pantene Association of Chain Drug Stores and Finally, there are line extensions, which partner HairUWear. PricewaterhouseCoopers conducted a are add-ons to an existing brand. Flanker In a statement, Swank commented on how cancer has roundtable of manufacturers and retailers fragrances, such as Britney Spears Fantasy, touched her life. to identify key success factors for product are prime examples. Flankers come under introductions. The fi ndings were presented the most scrutiny since they sometimes can- Hilary Swank at last month’s Marketplace meeting here. nibalize sales from existing items. during the That was an appropriate venue, since The panel suggested trading partners photo shoot thousands of new items are introduced at needed to defi ne what was expected of the for Beautiful Marketplace yearly. Beauty manufacturers launch. Success has a different set of pa- Lengths. use the venue to introduce items or to fl oat rameters based on the scope of the launch. fresh concepts to the retail community. A hit needs to be measured not only in volume, but by whether the numbers were achieved in the planned time frame and whether each retailer captured the expect- ed level of sales relative to competitors. Whether the item met a projected margin needs to be factored in, too. Execution is also paramount for launch- es, and the roundtable suggested monitor- Retailers attending the session said ing by both buyer and seller. Too often, even that the cost of adding new products was the best in-store display gets left in the back the single largest controllable expense for room because of poor execution. merchants. The number of new items is There must be contingency plans, such as escalating along with the failure rate. The what to do if there are launch delays, out-of- number of new items jumped 6 percent stocks or excess inventory. from 2004 to 2006, to more than 35,000, ac- Retailers at Marketplace said small and cording to Marketing Intelligence Service’s medium-size vendors, in particular, had to ProductScan. Store footage has stayed stat- learn the launch ropes. “Especially since ic, meaning it is harder than ever to add a we don’t have a track record for them,” said “I have lost multiple family members to cancer and new stockkeeping unit — especially with one buyer. witnessed their struggle fi rsthand. I’ve never heard of the threat of failure. The suggestions for ensuring successful anything quite like Pantene Beautiful Lengths, and I’m The roundtable of suppliers and buyers launches included better partnering between proud to be asked to promote the goals of such a unique determined that launches need a structure manufacturers and retailers, as well as a and heartfelt program,” she said. that was mutually agreed upon by buyer candid approach about the commitment to a Seth Klugherz, brand manager for Pantene, said Swank and seller. First, launches need to be clas- launch. Advised one supplier, “Don’t launch plans to cut her hair later this year, an event that will be sifi ed. “Not all new products require the ’em and leave ’em.” Continuous review was made public in the hopes of generating interest among the same amount of resources and support,” determined to be critical to both buyer and masses. The cut will be made either by a stylist of Swank’s explained Walgreen vice president of pur- seller success. choice or by one of her family members. chasing David Van Howe, who spoke for the Retailers said suppliers should get rid Hairstylist Chris McMillan styled Swank’s hair for the retailers’ view during a Marketplace ses- Milani’s of preconceived notions and develop what public service announcement, which is scheduled to ap- sion about the study. Black retailers need to consider an item a suc- pear in October beauty and lifestyle magazines. Pantene’s Clear expectations can be set by labeling Magic eye cess. Also, manufacturers were advised to goal this year is to raise one million inches of hair; in the level of the launch as an A or B intro- pencil. be prepared to support the product launch order for a donation to be accepted, hair must be at least duction. In the past, manufacturers touted with customer research and shopper insight. eight inches long. every launch as the biggest item to hit the Open data exchange is also a must in today’s Pantene, the best-selling hair care brand in the world retail shelves. rapid information-exchange retail world. with nearly $3 billion in annual sales, launched Pantene Four classifi cations emerged from the NACDS hopes roundtables such as this Beautiful Lengths in 2006. Then-spokesperson Diane Lane brainstorming. The fi rst type of new item is one will give its members more ammunition helped generate awareness for the charity, an effort that a corporate or market maker, or an item that not only to reduce new product failures, but to resulted in more than 17,000 ponytail donations and the will create a market of its own. A good example provide tools for boosting front-end sales. “The distribution of 2,000 free human hair wigs. of this are the minerals makeups, which are be- stakes are high and dialogues such as this can re- — Andrea Nagel coming a separate entity from traditional makeup, duce failure,” concluded Van Howe.

“It’s highly hydrating and much more benefi cial for energiz- ing the cells in the skin,” she said. Institut Esthederm Gets Makeover The reformulated and repackaged products will run the gamut of skin care. There are deep cleansers, moisturizers, LOS ANGELES — Buoyed by the success of its established Cellular creams, gels, masks, eye and neck creams and professional Water line, French skin care company Institut Esthederm is about to products. reformulate and relaunch its entire range of products to include the Examples include a Hydra-Replenishing Cleansing Milk, the Cellular Water technology. Lightening Buffi ng Mask and the Pure Cleansing Gel, all pack- The 25-year-old company is about to capitalize on the enthusiastic aged in clean all-white containers. A further stream of body prod- response to its six stockkeeping unit Cellular Water category, which has ucts will be launched in 2008. been available in the U.S. since 2004, by taking the same process and ap- McGuiness said that, like the Cellular Water line, the Osmo plying it to approximately 60 existing skin care items. Cellular Care collection is designed to be used on any type of skin, The unveiling of Osmo Cellular Care takes place in France this week- on either gender and across age groups. end. About 15 of the products will be available in the U.S. at the end of “It’s for boosting the health of the skin, for any type of treat- August, with the rest of the components gradually being released in the ment,” she said. The line will be distributed through day spas and country before the end of the year. upscale beauty stores across the country. The smaller line is now “The Cellular Water patent will replace all the water in our existing in about 300 doors around the U.S., including Space NK in New products,” said Karen McGuiness, vice president of the U.S. headquarters York and Kenneth George Sanctuary in Los Angeles. It can also be of Institut Esthederm in Annapolis, Md. obtained through plastic surgeons and dermatologists. The process is based on the concept of “living water,” which has the exact “We are not a mass market product line,” said McGuiness. same physiological makeup as the moisture in human skin. “We want to work with customers who are really knowledgeable Most other skin care lines contain demineralized water, she about skin care and are interested in taking care of their skin Institut said, which can be harsh on the skin. The fact that the Cellular long-term.” Esthederm’s Water composition is identical to the natural moisture in the The new Osmo line will carry price points at retail of $37 to $160. new buffi ng skin makes it easily absorbed. mask. — Kavita Daswani 8 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007

The HBA Report WWD.COM Perricone Adds Spa to Flagship SNIPPETS By Molly Prior A treatment room at Perricone’s SHOBHA OPENING: Shobha is opening Madison Avenue store. DR. PERRICONE HAS ADDED A FOURTH TIER TO HIS a new location at Columbus Circle in prescription for beauty. Manhattan on Tuesday. The salon, which Next week the dermatologist will add spa treatments to specializes in hair removal, has been the N.V. Perricone M.D. fl agship on Madison Avenue, where located in Midtown East and SoHo for he promotes his program of an anti-infl ammatory diet, nutri- the past six years. Some of its treatments tional supplements and skin care. include threading, waxing, sugaring The limited service menu is tailored to strengthen facial and its signature all-natural Indian muscles with electrostim — weak alternating electrical cur- facial treatments. A month of “happy rents — and is designed to achieve a fuller, more youthful- day deals” will be offered in honor of looking face. the new location, including packages “Probably one of the biggest aspects of aging is the loss of of six treatments for a discounted rate, tissue, and of course wrinkling and sagging,” said Perricone, 2-for-1 bikinis, complimentary eyebrow adding that facial contours give away one’s age. To maintain threading with any waxing appointment muscle mass in the body, one can lift weights. Electrostim and 2-for-1 eyebrows. serves a similar purpose for facial muscles, said Perricone, adding that services are in keeping with his noninvasive and BACK INTO BROWS: The Queen of the nonsurgical approach to beauty and skin health. Arch, Eliza Petrescu, has manufactured The services will include Electro-Stim Lifting Facial, a line of products under her own name. a 60-minute treatment for $250 that includes ultrasonic With an expected launch date of October, exfoliation, LED light therapy and microcurrent probes; her products have been reformulated to Rejuvenating Oxygen Facial, another 60-minute treat- better match skin tones. The assortment ment for $200, and Electro-Stim Advanced Anti-Aging Eye N.V. Perricone M.D. fl agship. With Gilboe on board, the com- will include eyebrow pencils, cooling Lift, a 30-minute treatment for $150. Three 15-minute add- pany expects to perform about fi ve treatments a day. The fl ag- gel, scissors, tweezers, sharpeners, on treatments are also available for $50 each: Ultrasonic ship will use Visia Skin Analysis, a device that takes detailed eyebrow enhancers and eye shadow Exfoliation, Advanced LED Healing Treatment and photographs of the skin’s service to measure the effective- colors. Petrescu’s products highlight, Therapeutic Oxygen Infusion. ness of the treatments over time. darken, color and enhance the eyes. Perricone is taking a different approach to developing The treatments are recommended as a replacement for Each product is designed to multitask. the business. Usually spas and clinics build their business Botox, which Perricone does not favor. In his view, Botox, For example, the post wax cooling gel on a base of offering services and then graduate into mar- a diluted form of botulinum toxin that is used to smooth can also be used as eyebrow conditioner. keting products. Perricone is doing the opposite and is of- wrinkles by temporarily paralyzing the muscles beneath Petrescu’s products may be purchased fering services almost as a benefi t to his clientele, since them, causes loss of facial muscle mass, which in turn ac- exclusively through Exhale; Eliza’s Eyes services are not considered as profi table as product. In a celerates aging. House of Brows in Southampton, N.Y., spa retail environment, the universal markup for products “You may not have a line on your face, but you will cer- and exhalespa.com. is generally two times a manufacturer’s wholesale price, tainly not look younger,” cautioned Perricone, referring to while treatment margins are approximately 30 percent, said Botox injections. The dermatologist, who abstains from per- BABY LOVE: Chic Baby is giving baby boys industry sources. forming cosmetic procedures in his practice, also shuns plas- and girls some love this fall with a set Kella England, director of the fl agship, said that the treat- tic surgery, which often involves cutting muscle and pulling of fragrances, dubbed Love. Created by ments are a response to consumer demand. “At least four or it back from the face. Corey Gelman, founder of Chic Doggie fi ve times a week, people would open the door and ask, ‘Do Perricone developed his own electrostim device, a glove by Corey, the fragrance for girls consists you do any services here?’ It was so often that we had to take designed for home use, that is currently pending approval by of chamomile, lavender, lilies and note.” She recalled that when she broached the concept with the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. fl oral, while the notes in the boy scent Perricone, he asked that she track down Estella Gilboe, an “Services fi t my philosophy,” said Perricone, who hinted consist of citrus and mandarin. Chic aesthetician whom he had meet some years earlier while re- he has more plans in the pipeline to promote a youthful, Baby’s Love fragrances are designed searching electrostim. Gilboe left her post at Louis Licari’s healthy face sans surgery. “One day, there won’t be a need for to enhance the natural smell of babies Manhattan salon to serve as director of the Skin Salon at the cosmetic procedures.” and can also be used on mothers. The company is currently in negotiations with FAO Schwarz, along with other high-end specialty retailers. The product is currently available for $60 through Avon Aims to Raise the Bar With Anew Ultimate lovechicbaby.com. von is upgrading its Anew Ultimate line skin, so by increasing the level of sirtuin, we improve the BRUSH WITH GREATNESS: Saks Fifth Awith new night cream and elixir formulas overall longevity of skin.” Avenue hosted their annual beauty event this fall, as the company revamps its Anew Anew Ultimate Age Repair Night Cream, $34 for 1.7 oz., Brushes With Greatness on Wednesday. skin care franchise. is designed to reverse advanced signs of aging and increase The evening featured one-on-one Anew, which was launched more than a de- the volume and fi rmness of skin, while decreasing the ap- consultations with industry experts from cade ago, includes herbaceuti- pearance of lines, wrinkles and age spots. over 20 brands including Chanel, Bobbi cal skin care Anew Alternative, The Age Repair Elixir will mark the highest price point Brown, Clarisonic, Dior, Estée Lauder, at-home dermatological treat- in skin care for the company, retailing at $54 for a 1-oz. jar. GoSmile, Freeze 24-7 and ICS Skin ment Anew Clinical and the The elixir is composed of twice the amount of Pro-Sirtuin Therapie. The event also included Cartier antiaging line targeting the TX complex as the night cream and is designed to make eyebrow threading stations, Clé de Peau fi rst signs of aging called Anew the skin feel fi rmer and tighter. Clinical testing showed that facials, eyelash extensions by NARS, Retroactive. the elixir started reversing advanced signs of aging in two Steven Victor MD microdermabrasion “We wanted to revolu- weeks — half the time of the night cream. The company and MAC fl oral applications. Guests who Avon’s Anew Ultimate items. tionize antiaging, and this also plans to introduce a day cream with SPF next March. purchased over $150 in products received launch renews our com- The products will be sold through more than 650,000 Avon an exclusive golden tote by Stephanie mitment to Anew,” said Claudia Poccia, president of Avon sales representatives. Johnson fi lled with samples and gifts. U.S. Beauty and global president of Mark. “This is the most “We spent seven years on perfecting this cream, since we comprehensive platform within Anew since its introduc- wanted to pioneer a new antiaging breakthrough,” said Andre YOGA IN CENTRAL PARK: Health magazine tion to the market 15 years ago.” Baradat, Avon’s vice president of global skin care marketing, is partnering with YogaWorks to host the The worldwide September launch will feature Age who added that more than 200 scientists worked on the proj- largest all-day outdoor yoga festival in Repair Night Cream and an Age Repair Elixir, both under ect. “We found that aging starts as early as the 30s, and people New York’s Central Park on Sept. 29. the Anew Ultimate brand. The two antiaging treatments are more concerned about aging than they used to be. This L’Oréal Skin Genesis has signed on as use a new technology incorporating proteins, known as sir- cream makes a luxury available to every woman.” the presenting sponsor of the festival, tuins, that are scientifi cally proven to extend the life span The products are aimed at women age 45 and older who where themed classes such as Yoga for of living organisms. With the patent-pending Pro-Sirtuin have already experienced aging. Better Sleep and Vinyasa Detox Flow TX technology, the formula is designed to boost these criti- The new product launches under Anew Ultimate will be will be taught. Celebrity yoga personality cal skin proteins, creating healthier essential cells and re- supported by a print and television advertising campaign and creator of “Yoga for Dummies,” pairing advanced age damage. The complex is also formu- that is scheduled to break in September with television, Sarah Ivanhoe, will teach classes for lated to activate remodeling proteins, which help restore followed by print ads in about 12 fashion, beauty and life- the day-long event. Grammy-nominated the skin’s cellular architecture, rebuilding fi rmness and style magazines in October. According to Poccia, the night singer Joan Osborne will also be elasticity. The company will slowly phase out the existing cream and elixir will also be supported by “unprecedented performing. Activities such as massages, Day Transforming Lift Cream SPF 15, Night Transforming levels of sampling.” She added that 16 million beauty sam- minimakeovers, food sampling and Lift Cream and Transforming Life Eye Cream as the new ples will be distributed on the cover of the Avon catalogue, one-on-one nutrition consultations will products are introduced. in addition to other trial sizes and sampling initiatives. also be offered. Tickets will go for $25 “We’re moving into a luxury pampering positioning that Although executives were unable to comment on advertis- in advance and $30 on the day of the takes the best technology from our different menus and ing and promotional budgets, Poccia noted that the company event and can be purchased at health. builds it into a comprehensive treatment,” said Robert is spending “signifi cantly more” than they traditionally do com/herecomesthesun. Partial proceeds Kalafsky, Avon’s executive director of research and devel- with the more aggressive television and print campaigns. will be donated to the Ovarian Cancer opment. “We found a direct link between sirtuin and the — Michelle Edgar Research Fund. ANEW PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT ANEW PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 9 WWD.COM Media/Advertising September Fashion AD PAGES, AS OF SEPTEMBER SEPT 07 % CHANGE YEAR-TO-DATE % CHANGE Allure* 209.3 12.3 1,225.0 13.0 Cosmopolitan 191.0 -9.0 1,359.0 4.0 Elle*** 398.0 8.4 1,734.0 10.0 Issues Go Plus Sized Essence 136.9 0.6 1,004.1 -0.1 t’s go big or go home in the world of fashion magazines in September, since the Glamour* 285.5 3.7 1,443.0 13.5 Imonth is one of the most critical for fashion and luxury advertisers. For some titles Harper’s Bazaar 360.0 16.0 1,316.1 14.0 this year, the words “biggest issue ever” will be smacked on covers and marketing packets as ad pages swelled for their big fall fashion statements. Other magazines, In Style** 396.4 4.9 2,216.2 -6.8 however, struggled in September, some posting double-digit declines. According to Publishers Information Bureau, paging in the retail category grew 5.6 percent in the Lucky* 279.3 -7.7 1,289.0 1.0 first half of the year, though ad pages in the apparel and accessories category fell Marie Claire 168.0 -1.8 974.0 5.8 2.4 percent. At Condé Nast, where its annual Fashion Rocks issue helps bolster ad pages in Self* 157.0 2.6 970.0 7.0 September for many titles, Vogue is the magazine that has the most to brag about. Not Vanity Fair* 349.8 5.0 1,466.0 15.9 only is this September’s issue the biggest Vogue in history, it’s the biggest magazine in terms of total pages of any monthly magazine ever printed, according to the title’s Vogue* 727.0 16.2 2,296.6 7.4 own research. Vogue posted a 16.2 percent gain to 727 ad pages, and likely some of W* 477.0 22.0 1,540.0 12.0 that dough will go toward postage costs to ship the phone book-size magazine. Year to date, the title surpassed rival In Style in ad pages, reporting 2,297. In Style’s ad pages Women’s Health 83.4 54.5 454.9 49.1 have declined 6.8 percent so far this year, to 2,216. In other record-breaking news, Men’s Health, Elle, W and Harper’s Bazaar will all publish their biggest issues ever. For Men’s Health, the September issue will be the Seventeen 118.7 -10.4 671.2 -8.5 biggest issue Rodale Inc. has ever printed in the company’s history. Its September issue grew 7.1 percent, to 155 pages, and while fashion is a major growth category, Teen Vogue* 243.6 -10.3 853.7 -5.0 consumer electronics, fi nancial and pharmaceutical boosted Men’s Health. Glamour’s September issue is its biggest issue in 20 years, carrying 286 ad pages. Harper’s Bazaar posted a 16 percent gain for September, to 360 pages, but gains Best Life# 93.7 46.6 369.1 44.2 for the Hearst titles do not include paging from the company’s own fashion outsert, 30 Days of Fashion. This is Hearst’s second year of mailing out the special issue to Details* 258.8 1.6 860.8 6.3 subscribers with September editions for eight of its titles. This year’s edition will Esquire 154.5 2.1 725.0 -6.1 swell to 68 total pages, compared with last year’s 36 pages. Of the titles that struggled this September, Cosmopolitan posted a 9 percent de- GQ* 331.0 3.4 1,171.0 2.4 cline in ad pages, to 191. The drop, according to senior vice president/publishing Maxim 102.0 -7.0 609.0 -9.0 director Donna Lagani, came in part because this year’s issue carried fewer inserts than last year’s. Shopping monthly Lucky also faltered in September, posting a 7.7 Men’s Health 155.4 7.1 791.6 17.2 percent dip in ad pages. Men’s Journal 118.2 22.4 831.1 16.5 Maxim, which has been in a state of fl ux throughout 2007 as the company prepped for a sale, lost 7 percent of ad paging in September, to 102 pages. “That’s all from one Men’s Vogue## 179.6 9.8 470.5 72.7 word — automotive,” explained Rob Gregory, Maxim’s group publisher. The teen ti- tles also posted losses for their September issues — Teen Vogue posted a 10.3 percent Stuff 65.1 -8.0 456.9 -4.0 dip in pages, to 244, because it carried fewer pages this year from Fashion Rocks. SOURCE: PUBLISHERS’ ESTIMATES Seventeen also reported a 10.4 percent dip in ad pages, to 119. (Cosmogirl did not #PUBLISHING SCHEDULE INCREASED FROM 6 TO 10 TIMES IN 2007; ##SCHEDULE INCREASED FROM 3 TO 8 ISSUES IN 2007 have its ad page numbers ready at press time.) *INCLUDES PAGING FROM FASHION ROCKS Here, the September issues and year-to-date performances for the major men’s, **INCLUDES PAGING FROM MAKEOVER ISSUE women’s and teen titles. Numbers are based on publisher’s best estimates. ***YEAR-TO-DATE TOTAL INCLUDES PAGING FROM ELLE ACCESSORIES MEMO PAD FACE TIME: A 10-page fashion shoot starring Anna Wintour? All is not what it fi rst appears in the August issue of Paris Vogue, just hitting newsstands in France. A well feature on Wintour’s style, titled “Icon” and shot by Mario Testino, features model Snejana Onopka in sunglasses, bobbed hair and a range of fur-drenched looks. Eye-popping too are six self-portraits elsewhere in the issue by artist Cindy Sherman modeling looks from Balenciaga’s globe-trotting fall- winter collection, resembling a gamine one minute, a glamour goddess the next. It’s her fi rst such collaboration in more than a decade. Nicholas Ghesquière was to host a From left to right: An Anna Wintour look-alike in Paris Vogue. Cindy Sherman’s self-portraits in the same issue. dinner for Sherman Thursday night at the Carlyle in New York to fete the pictures. Also AGENT MAGGIE: Agent Provocateur has tapped Maggie expected were Jennifer Connelly, Paul Bettany, Gyllenhaal for its upcoming online campaign. A Aerin Lauder and Carine Roitfeld, among others. spokeswoman declined to elaborate on why the The August issue also features a 12-page black- company selected Gyllenhaal — although her fl esh- and-white fashion shoot by former Dior Homme baring appearances in the high-brow S&M movie designer Hedi Slimane. — Miles Socha “Secretary” and her turn in “SherryBaby” probably didn’t hurt. Photographed by Alice Hawkins, the TWO FOR TUMI: Photographer Michael Thompson campaign will make its debut on Sept. 1. Gyllenhaal recently shot Shalom Harlow but it wasn’t for a will appear in the fi rst “episode” of the campaign; three magazine feature. The duo, under the direction more episodes will follow with different stars, “in due of David Lipman, came together for the new Tumi course,” said the spokeswoman. — A.W. ad campaign. The brand is repositioning itself as a bigger, more fashionable player in the luxury CORRECTION: An item in Thursday’s Memo Pad marketplace, with the addition of materials like about Eric Nicholson’s departure from Marie Claire as Napa leather and higher price points. “I wanted senior fashion editor incorrectly attributed certain the advertising to express a mood of luxury and information to a spokeswoman for the magazine. A style,” said David Chu, executive creative director. publishing industry source had indicated to WWD that Prices for luggage now go up to $2,900 and Nicholson had been asked to leave the magazine. Due women’s handbags range from $395 to $795. to an editing error, that information was mistakenly The campaign will roll out in the September attributed in the story to the spokeswoman. The issues of Portfolio, Town & Country, Vogue, spokeswoman confi rmed only the fact that Nicholson Departures, W, Vanity Fair and GQ. — Amy Wicks Shalom Harlow in the fall ad campaign for Tumi. left the magazine, not why or how he left. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 WWD.COM Awards Season Begins With Emmy Nominees

LOS ANGELES — The red-carpet race is on, but it’s a bit low on Katherine Heigl, “Grey’s Anatomy,” ABC fashion powerhouses. Sandra Oh, “Grey’s Anatomy,” ABC Nominations for the 59th annual Primetime Emmys, which Aida Turturro, “The Sopranos,” HBO kick off Hollywood’s awards season, were announced Thursday. Chandra Wilson, “Grey’s Anatomy,” ABC Although TV-land has been less sparkling in the dressing de- partment since “Sex and the City” went off the air, perhaps this SUPPORTING ACTRESS, COMEDY year nominated actresses such as Kyra Sedgwick, Minnie Driver Conchata Ferrell, “Two and a Half Men,” CBS and Debra Messing will take up the sartorial slack at the show. Jenna Fischer, “The Offi ce,” NBC The Emmys will be broadcast on FOX at 8 p.m. Sept. 16, from the Elizabeth Perkins, “Weeds,” Showtime Shrine Auditorium here. Jaime Pressly, “My Name Is Earl,” NBC — Marcy Medina Holland Taylor, “Two and a Half Men,” CBS Kyra Vanessa Williams, “Ugly Betty,” ABC Sedgwick LEAD ACTRESS, DRAMA SUPPORTING ACTRESS, MINISERIES OR MOVIE Patricia Arquette, “Medium,” NBC Toni Collette, “Tsunami, The Aftermath,” HBO Minnie Driver, “The Riches,” FX Judy Davis, “The Starter Wife,” USA Edie Falco, “The Sopranos,” HBO Samantha Morton, “Longford,” HBO Sally Field, “Brothers & Sisters,” Anna Paquin, “Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee,” HBO ABC Greta Scacchi, “Broken Trail,” ABC Mariska Hargitay, “Law & Order: Special Victims Unit,” NBC GUEST ACTRESS, COMEDY Kyra Sedgwick, “The Closer,” TNT Dixie Carter, “Desperate Housewives,” ABC Salma Hayek, “Ugly Betty,” ABC LEAD ACTRESS, COMEDY Judith Light, “Ugly Betty,” ABC America Ferrera, “Ugly Betty,” ABC Laurie Metcalf, “Desperate Housewives,” ABC Tina Fey, “30 Rock,” NBC Elaine Stritch, “30 Rock,” NBC Felicity Huffman, “Desperate Housewives,” ABC GUEST ACTRESS, DRAMA Julia Louis-Dreyfus, “The New Kate Burton, “Grey’s Anatomy,” ABC Adventures of Old Christine,” CBS Leslie Caron, “Law & Order: Special Victims Unit,” Mary-Louise Parker, “Weeds,” NBC Showtime Marcia Gay Harden, “Law & Order: Special Victims Unit,” NBC LEAD ACTRESS, MINISERIES OR Elizabeth Reaser, “Grey’s Anatomy,” ABC MOVIE Jean Smart, “24,” FOX Helen Mirren, “Prime Suspect,” PBS COSTUMES, SERIES Queen Latifah, “Life Support,” HBO “Deadwood,” HBO, Katherine Jane Bryant Debra Messing, “The Starter Wife,” “Desperate Housewives,” ABC, Catherine Adair USA “Rome,” HBO, April Ferry Mary-Louise Parker, “The Robber “The Tudors,” Showtime, Joan Bergin Bride,” Oxygen “Ugly Betty,” ABC, Eduardo Castro Gena Rowlands, “What If God Were the Sun,” Lifetime COSTUMES, MINISERIES, MOVIE OR SPECIAL “Broken Trail,” AMC, Wendy Partridge SUPPORTING ACTRESS, DRAMA “Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee,” HBO, Mario Lorraine Bracco, “The Sopranos,” Davignon HBO “Jane Eyre,” PBS, Andrea Galer Rachel Griffi ths, “Brothers & “Longford,” HBO, James Keast Debra Messing

Sisters,” ABC “The Starter Wife,” USA, Marion Boyce JEFFREY MAYER/WIREIMAGE STEVE EICHNER; SEDGWICK BY MESSING PHOTO BY

SHORT STOP: After the departure of its Nordstrom Kicks Off in Metro Boston couture designer, Fashion Scoops Stephane Rolland, By Katherine Bowers in May, it looks like Jean-Louis Scherrer’s ready-to-wear designer, Bouchra Jarrar, has parted ways with BOSTON — Even though its first store doesn’t open here until September, the house, too. Jarrar, who was to present her fi rst rtw collection for the house in October, Nordstrom already has 3,000 credit card holders in Greater Boston. declined comment Thursday. She joined the house in February following a 10-year stint About 500 people attended a downtown cocktail party Tuesday night to toast working at Balenciaga. the retailer’s arrival, which kicks off with the opening of a 144,000- square-foot store on Sept. 7 at the Natick Collection in Natick, Mass. The new luxury retail PRINTS PRIZE: “It’s all about the eye,” said Diane von Furstenberg, one of the judges at development, about 20 miles west of Boston, will also house the region’s second Textprint’s annual student textile design awards in London. “It’s colors and textures, but Neiman Marcus. really it’s about the eye.” Von Furstenberg joined Jasper Conran, and Aquascutum designers Nordstrom plans to open three more stores over three years in Massachusetts: Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler in choosing the best fabrics from among 24 recent U.K. art Burlington Mall in Burlington, Northshore Mall in Peabody, and South Shore Mall college graduates this week at Chelsea College of Art and Design. Textprint is a charity that in Braintree, three of the area’s prominent regional malls that form a ring around hooks up recent graduates with fashion and design companies. In addition to her judging, Boston. The sites were former Filene’s stores. von Furstenberg did some poaching, too. “We are overwhelmed,” Pete Nordstrom, president of merchandising and “There is something about English creativity that is so free and open,’’ she said. “I’ll a fourth-generation family member, told a crowd that lined up afterward for be taking at least two of these designers back with me to New York.” “Without these young photo ops. “We’ve wanted to come here for so long. Thank you for supporting designers, we don’t survive,” said Conran. “And while encouragement is always good, a us from afar.” prize is even better.” The 24 graduates will take their work to Première Vision’s Indigo show Nordstrom told WWD suburban openings wouldn’t preclude the retailer from in Paris in September, while the winners of the judges’ prizes will also show at Interstoff moving quickly on a downtown site if one should become available. Asia in Hong Kong in October. A year ago, when the former Filene’s flagship was for sale downtown, Nordstrom said he reviewed the opportunity. STELLA TO A ‘T’: The T-shirt that child of rock ’n’ roll Stella McCartney The merger between the former Federated Department Stores Inc. (renamed designed for the Glastonbury music festival will go on sale at Yoox next Macy’s Inc.) and May Department Stores Co., which shuttered the Filene’s busi- week for about $50. “The T-shirt is inspired by all the airbrushing ness, paved the way for Nordstrom to open up 100,000-plus-square-foot spaces my mum and dad [Linda and Paul McCartney] used to get made in productive regional malls. The Seattle-based retailer looked for Boston area in the Seventies,” said McCartney. “It’s collectible,” said Yoox space for 25 years, the company said in 2006 when it announced it had inked sev- founder Federico Marchetti. Yoox often hosts collaborations and eral leases. Many Boston customers drove to the store in Providence, R.I. special projects that mix design, music and fashion. The shirt will be The decision to spread store openings over several years (Burlington in March available starting Tuesday and proceeds will be donated to charity. 2008, Northshore in spring 2009 and South Shore in spring 2010) gives the com- pany time to promote store managers from within, Nordstrom said. There will not THE SHOW MUST NOT GO ON: Sass & Bide designers Heidi Middleton be a Boston area buying offi ce. and Sarah-Jane Clarke have cancelled their New York Fashion Week “I know we’ll make mistakes at fi rst, but hopefully people will give us the feed- show, which was scheduled for Sept. 6 at 7 p.m. in Bryant Park. The The Stella McCartney T. back we need to do better,” he said. “We fi nd people really responding to the high- duo decided it would be best for Middleton to sit this show week out er taste level of our assortment. We try not to underestimate any customers.” so she can recuperate from her on-going chemotherapy treatments. Middleton was diagnosed Vogue columnist André Leon Talley, who had spent a day admiring Meissen with breast cancer earlier this year, just 12 days after the birth of her second daughter, Elke birds and other decorative objects at the Museum of Fine Arts, turned up to Bay. A spokeswoman for Sass & Bide insisted that the designers would be back for the shows support Nordstrom as did Isabel and Ruben Toledo. Ruben Toledo illustrates in February, but even before that, they would be in New York in November to show their Nordstrom’s fall Vogue ad campaign and Isabel Toledo’s fi rst collection for Anne spring collection. “Heidi is doing well,” the spokeswoman said. “Her doctors just thought it Klein will be sold at Nordstrom. would be best for her to stay in Australia for now and not travel to New York.” WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 11 WWD.COM Roxy Updates Retail Look Oli Banks on Star Power By Emili Vesilind a new Quiksilver Kids store via an entrance cut into a shared wall, is on a street-side By Nina Jones LA JOLLA, Calif. — Surf-driven brand Roxy is shopping complex in the town’s quaint com- expanding its retail base with a colorful new mercial heart. Inside is the full breadth of LONDON — Oli, an online store design to stay competitive with teen the Roxy product: the signature apparel col- clothing retailer and mail- retailers such as Hollister Co. and American lection, Roxy Girl, Teenie Wahine (toddlers), order brand based here, Eagle Outfitters Inc. accessories and lifestyle products such as launched this month with a The 17-year-old label, owned by Quiksilver branded pillows. Retail prices for the core roster of fi ve celebrity and Inc., based in Huntington Beach, Calif., brand range from $22 to $78. guest designers and aims to launched an international growth plan on The store’s youthful, offbeat design was tap into the U.K.’s increas- July 2 with the opening of a 1,100-square-foot the concept of Los Angeles interior designer ing appetite for fashion with store in La Jolla, Calif., an affl uent beachside Barbara Bestor. stars’ seals of approval. community north of San Diego. The entrance is a cube-shape portal cov- Alongside the company’s Quiksilver has tested Roxy as a stand- ered on three sides by a logo-themed graph- own label collections, which alone retail concept, opening four stores in ic design. An oversize photograph of a girl it plans to update every Looks from Jasmine Guinness (fi rst two from left) Arizona, California and Hawaii since 1996, swimming underwater covers the back wall week, its Web site, oli.co.uk, and Ann-Sofi e Back’s lines (all others). but is only now poised to expand the brand’s of the entryway, one of many “supergraphics” and catalogue carry ranges retail operations. The company plans four in the boutique that will change in theme designed by models Jodie Kidd and Jasmine Guinness, and London designers Roxy boutiques in the U.S. by the end of the (from surf to ski) with the seasons. Maria Grachvogel, Ann-Sofi e Back and Central Saint Martins student Thomas year, in Orlando, Fla., Paramus, N.J., Wailea, Vicary. But Neil Sansom, brand director of Oli, which is owned and operated Hawaii, and Detroit. by the Otto group, a multichannel retailer based in Hamburg, Germany, said The Motor City may seem an unlikely the company wasn’t simply jumping on the high street’s celebrity designer locale for a surf brand, but the company bandwagon. hopes to “reach out to our girl who lives in “All [our designers] have strong fashion credentials. They are rooted in the heartland,” said Randy Hild, senior vice fashion and understand it,” Sansom said. “We’re being sensible about the president of global marketing for Roxy. “We trend. Consumers have always wanted inspiration [from celebrities], and believe that the teen girls there are looking our customer has belief in these ranges.” for our products, but our distribution thus At the brand’s launch Wednesday, Grachvogel, whose 11-piece collection far has been light in areas beyond the coastal includes ruffl ed chiffon dresses and tops and tweed dresses, which retail communities.” from about $80 for a pencil skirt to $240 for a wool coat, said she welcomed In Europe, the company plans 50 Roxy the exposure to a different demographic that her range for Oli would bring. doors in the next two years, a mix of li- “I think it attracts a younger customer who will then aspire to the censed, company-owned and jointly owned main-line collection,” she said. PHOTO BY STEVE JONES PHOTO BY units. Twenty of the leases have been signed, Beach hut-inspired display pieces hold surfboards Kidd, whose 10-piece collection of sporty basics includes a leather Hild said. “How the mix is going to be is still and accessories. biker jacket for $300 and trenchcoat for $180, said the quality of the mate- falling into place….So far, there’s not a plan rials she worked with for her collection were a welcome surprise. to do a major European city with a big fl ag- Bestor was given the mission of “get- “I chose mother-of-pearl buttons for the shirt and beautiful leather for ship store, but that can and should be part of ting the outdoor experience into a mall,” the bag — it’s great quality for the price.” the plan in the future.” Hild said. The designer created structures Sansom said he expected customers to browse the guest designer lines, Outside the Roxy boutiques, the label that loosely resemble beach huts. The mul- called Oli Fusion; the brand’s own label collections, which start at $10 for is carried in Quiksilver boutiques, major titasking “huts” jut off the walls and hold a T-shirt, and other brands on the site such as Warehouse, Diesel and U.S. department stores, including Macy’s surfboards and folded apparel, also provid- French Connection. “It’s the idea of democratic fashion, that the customer and Nordstrom, and in surf shops around ing seating and additional display space for can come to one place and put their outfi t together,” he said. the world. necklaces and key chains. The company has designed the Web site with an editorial feel, with The company decided to get behind a Lacquered and brightly painted pinewood profi les of the designers, style guides and a look book where custom- full-fl edged retail program for Roxy after is used everywhere, in the built-in shelving ers can try clothing items together by dragging images into a virtual market research showed that “90 percent of and cubbies and the movable display pieces changing room. all teen girls know and recognize the Roxy reminiscent of homemade children’s play Sansom said the busy schedules of the brand’s 25- to 35-year-old target brand, but they don’t know where to buy it,” tables. “Pine is this cheap, natural wood that audience were driving them to online shopping.“The high street has be- Hild said. “Less than 1 percent [of female has a funky warmth,” said Steve Jones, visual come more diffi cult, with parking and congestion charging. We can deliver teens] knows that Roxy has anything to do consultant for retail for Quiksilver. Cutting direct to customers the next day.” with Quiksilver.” through the wood tones is eye-popping color The company estimates that Oli, which also carries men’s and chil- Department stores, another major dis- — mostly fuchsia and royal blue — found in dren’s ranges, small electrical items and beauty products, will reach sales tribution point for the brand, “haven’t been Roxy signs and in the store’s graphics. of 300 million pounds, or $603 million at current exchange, within the user-friendly for teens,” he said. Vertical re- “If there’s one thing we’ve learned from next fi ve years. It has invested $50 million in the brand’s launch, and ad- tailers [such as] Hollister and Abercrombie opening [Quiksilver and Roxy] stores, it’s vertisements are set to break on U.K. television, fashion Web sites and in & Fitch have been [successful], and we really to simplify things,’’ Jones said. “In our fi rst magazines. All the designers will create collections for spring 2008, and believe that we have to be in that arena.” stores, the design took center stage. Now we Sansom said the company plans to introduce more guest designers. The La Jolla unit, which is connected to allow the product to come forward.” Lounge Bringing Its SoHo Style to Las Vegas By Sharon Edelson Lounge’s owner, Jack Menashe, said, “Vegas is the Lounge in SoHo. best city in the country. Although there’s a ton of retail et other Las Vegas developers fight over luxury there we feel there’s a tremendous opportunity for a Lbrands, the Cosmopolitan Resort & Casino is sing- strong multibrand store.” ing a more eclectic tune. The Cosmopolitan’s executives want “a lot of ener- With most of the new retail projects on the Las gy,” Menashe said, and he plans to give it to them. The Vegas Strip chasing many of the same high-end brands Las Vegas unit will be designed by James Mansour, and turning the once honky-tonk city into a sea of luxu- who created the interiors for the SoHo store. “It’s ry, the Cosmopolitan is hoping to stand out with stores going to be over the top,” Menashe said. “It will be fu- that are offbeat, rather than simply tony. turistic and with lots of moving parts. We try to create The fi rst two tenants the Cosmopolitan announced an environment at Lounge where [customers] come underscore this point. Lounge, a SoHo store where de- and stay for hours. Nobody ever confused Lounge signers such as D&G, Miss Sixty and Great China Wall with minimalism.” mingle with denim, vintage and music memorabilia, Menashe said Lounge in Las Vegas will have many will anchor the 265,000-square-foot shopping area with of the same areas of business as the SoHo unit, but a 10,000-square-foot unit. the “price range will go a lot higher. We will do vin- Club Tattoo, a body art lifestyle concept coowned tage, but high-end vintage such as old Gucci and old by Linkin Park lead singer Chester Bennington, will Halston. We’re probably going to put in some kind of open a 3,000-square-foot store at the resort. “They’re and accessories brands.” very cool bar. We may have some celebrity participa- going to do tattoos and piercings, but they also have a Lounge will be the largest store, followed by a tion in some of the concessions. Perhaps we could tie very serious fashion offering,” said Jim Reding, direc- 6,500-square-foot space, which has yet to be leased. in Lenny Kravitz in some capacity, not that we’ve spo- tor of retail at Cosmopolitan. “They will be announcing A fashion promenade will house a row of small bou- ken to him yet. We have two years to plan and create.” a new clothing line at Magic.” tiques ranging in size from 600 square feet to 1,500 Asked what volume he projects for the Las Vegas The Cosmopolitan, which will consist of two 52-fl oor square feet. store, Menashe said, “The Forum Shops does over hotel and condominium towers and a 5-acre “beach” Reding said he combed neighborhoods like New $1,400. We have very big hopes.” playground, is being marketed as a hip, boutique hotel York’s SoHo and Bleecker Street, and Robertson In the meantime, Menashe said he’s “very actively experience, albeit in a much larger guise. The 46 shops Boulevard in Los Angeles, places that seem to attract looking for other locations for Lounge stores. In New and 15 restaurants will be housed behind a three-story interesting stores. “When people shop in Las Vegas York, we could open another downtown store, a store glass facade and accessible from Las Vegas Boulevard. they’re a lot more adventurous than when they’re on the Upper East Side or Upper West Side. It takes a “I defi nitely see at least half of the stores being wom- shopping in their hometowns,” he said. “People in Las while to fi nd the right powerful locations. I don’t want en’s fashion,” said Reding. “There will also be a lot of Vegas have larger budgets.” He said stores should do little baby stores and I want a lot of traffi c, a lot of peo- accessories, two or three jewelry stores and handbag $1,250 a square foot “conservatively.” ple and mass transportation.” 12 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 WWD.COM Price a Key Factor in Brazil

By Mike Kepp SAO PAULO — Brazil’s two major fashion events offered retailers strikingly different choices in terms of style and price — and price often won out. The upmarket São Paulo Fashion Week gave foreign buyers two price options — expensive, established designers or the more affordable, underdog brands. At the more mainstream Fashion Rio, also showing summer 2008 collections, buyers found prices, even among top stylists, more palatable. Most foreign retailers at SPFW found the dollar-based export prices of top brands hard to swallow because they have risen as the local currency, the real, continues to appreciate against the dollar. Although the dollar depreciated against the real by 8 percent in 2006, and by 10 percent in the fi rst half of 2007 — less than the 27 percent it weakened between mid-2004 and the end of 2005 — its continued slide has forced foreign buyers to opt for less-costly, lesser-known SPFW brands that have kept prices stable, even if it meant cutting their margins. The latest editions of these biannual events, both open to the public, drew the usual-size local and foreign crowds. The June 13-19 SPFW, in Brazil’s fashion capi- tal, drew nearly 105,000 attendees and several dozen foreign retailers, most of whom were newcomers. Fashion Rio, June 4-10, attracted 90,000 visitors and 80 foreign buyers, agents or distributors. At both events, 15 to 20 percent of local attendees were trade. Both editions boasted mostly European and Asian foreign buyers, although Fashion Rio, unlike SPFW, also drew a sprinkling of South American and U.S. retail- ers. The only foreign buyer at both events was Venue, a Southeast Asian chain of 12 multibrand stores. Other multibrand stores at SPFW included Barneys Japan, Lane Crawford of Hong Kong and Corleone’s of Madrid. Among the foreign boutiques were Sisters, New Zealand; Carouzos, Athens; Bossa Nova and Yeung, Belgium; La Villa, Deauville, France, and Antonella of Argentina. International buying consultants included the London-based Boutiqueye and Diptrics, a Tokyo fashion distributor. The collections of the 48 SPFW designers and the 41 at Fashion Rio couldn’t have Iodice been more different, industry observers said. “SPFW designers had more masculine themes, with lots of sports jackets and light wool vests, whereas Fashion Rio stylists favored a ‘Lolita’ look — short, voluminous dresses, with bows and ruffl es,” said fashion consultant Lilian Pacce. “The only thing the two events had in common was the fl uorescent colors of the new rave scene, now Movimento strong here.”

Jefferson Zigfreda Huis Clos from 10 designers, added, “We are buying far less from brands like Herchcovitch and Kulig Forum whose prices have, with the depreciating dollar, constantly increased, and are buying more from brands like Osklen, Zoomp and Gloria Coelho, who have kept their prices stable and still offer quality and creativity.” De Urcola singled out Osklen’s open-backed, rainbow-hued silk evening dress and Gloria Coelho’s fl ared tulle evening gown. Alex Hascher of Venue, who is buying Osklen and Zigfreda for the same reason,

PHOTOS BY MARCIO MADEIRA MARCIO PHOTOS BY said, “these brands have elegant day-into-evening wear that is inexpensive yet as in- novative as the pricier, fashion-forward SPFW designers.” Hascher, who went to both trade fairs, added, “if you want fashion-forward Brazilian design, go to SPFW. If you want more affordable, one-stop shopping, go to Fashion Rio.” He found the prices of Fashion Rio’s top designers more attractive than those at SPFW. He will buy Maria Bonita Extra’s white, cotton honeycomb-textured A dresses and pink viscose-spandex, high-waist wrap dresses with a fl icked-paint print, “be- cause they are classic, creative and price-competitive.” Some foreign buyers, however, bought a mix of tiers because of the varied buying power of their clients. “Because the New Zealand dollar isn’t as strong as the U.S. dollar and imports are heavily taxed, I buy lesser-known designers, like Iodice, who are stylish and price- competitive,” said Rodelle de Vries of Sisters. “But I also buy pricier name brands like Tereza Santos because for some of my clients, price is no object.” Haru Suzuki, fashion merchandising director of Barneys Japan, is also buying Santos’ powder-blue pullover knit dresses and Capeto’s peach beaded cotton halter dresses “because, although they are expensive, I just can’t fi nd this casual, stylish, day-into-evening wear anywhere else.” The swimwear brands at Fashion Rio all used new-rave colors and showcased Patrick Deitch, a representative for Luly Yang Couture, a Seattle boutique, said he “trikinis,” — which from the back “trick” one into thinking they’re bikinis, but whose was interested in Mara Mac’s draped, silk evening dresses with sequin detailing and tops and bottoms are joined by a strip in the front. “Lolita” looks could be seen in Victor Dzenk’s draped, silk chiffon cocktail dress. “I liked their price, quality and Juliana Jabour’s strapless, pink taffeta shirtdresses bunched into a huge frontal bow; body-conscious sexually, something Seattle women look for in Brazilian brands.” Cantão’s voluminous, taffeta short dresses and jumpsuits, and the bow-tied bikini Norma Jimenez, a buyer for Allegro, a chain of fi ve shops in San José, Costa Rica, tops of Salinas. who has bought Blue Man, this time opted for $3,000 worth of Mali, a lesser-known SPFW’s most overtly masculine theme was the deconstructed tuxedo. Alexandre brand. “Mali will make its abstract fl ower print, hand-embroidered bikinis slightly Herchcovitch showcased a carnation pink, strapless organza dress, whose jagged-cut bigger for me,” said Jimenez. “I could fi nd cheaper bikinis in China, but not with and folded top looked like a carnation and was showcased by a black satin cummer- embroidery and not with customized fi ts unless I buy huge volumes.” bund. Movimento offered a black and white one-piece swimsuit with buttons and a Bill Adams, chief executive of the Los Angeles-based eXM Global, a buyer for 25 black asymmetric tuxedo-lapel neck strap. SPFW’s new-rave colors stood out in Huis boutiques in 10 states, bought Enseada da Praia’s vibrant, African print bikinis for Clos’ bright lemon, hourglass-shaped tops and the orange refl ective strips on Ellus’ the same reason. “At $25 apiece wholesale, they don’t beat China’s prices, but my satin poncho dresses. Some of the brand’s other utility details included drawstrings clients like Brazilian styling and quality,” he said. on hoods and hems. Juan Mangado, buyer for 60 upscale boutiques in Spain, was one of the few foreign Retailers at SPFW were more interested in styling and colors than prices. Diptrics buyers who left Fashion Rio empty-handed. “I found either good-quality, overpriced consultant Robb Young said that “foreign buyers there were presented with two bikinis or poor-quality, low-priced bikinis,” he said. “I used to be able to fi nd afford- choices: high-priced, labor-intensive, luxury brands, like Isabela Capeto or Neon, able, high-quality swimwear here. But the overvalued local currency has changed who don’t market abroad, or those with better prices and marketing, like Ellus or all that.” Osklen. And most buyers opted for the latter, which also offer a casual chic, day-into- Because of a rebounding economy (a projected 4.5 percent growth rate this year, evening look that many women want.” compared to 3 percent in 2006), Fashion Rio and SPFW each registered increased Bossa Nova owner Philippe Faucon concurred. “Top designers like Capeto and domestic business. Fashion Rio’s 82 on-site showrooms, for designers with and with- Neon are expensive, cater to domestic clients and seem unaware of prices abroad, out runway shows, generated $218 million in domestic orders and $14 million in whereas some stylish, lesser-known ones like Iodice, Osklen, Gloria Coelho, Ellus foreign orders, up from $190 million in domestic and $12.5 million in foreign orders and Jefferson Kulig have prices more aligned with those abroad. Some top designers at the July 2006 event. also have unreliable delivery dates and don’t provide marketing help or follow-up, At the SPFW’s 57 on-site showrooms, 490 orders were placed, up from 400 orders whereas these underdog houses offer foreign buyers a structure to market their ap- placed at 73 showrooms at the July 2006 edition. (SPFW does not tally by currency parel abroad.” volume.) Faucon applauded Iodice’s pastel print, silk satin tops with a bare shoulder and “The fewer showrooms at this event compared to the edition last July had more back as being “sexy but classic,” and Jefferson Kulig’s futuristic, black neoprene space to show more of [the] collections,” said SPFW organizer Graça Cabral. “And blouses as being “edgy but contemporary.” more orders were placed at this SPFW than at last July’s because the economy has Corleone’s buyer Elena Florez de Urcola, who purchased $120,000 worth of clothes rekindled since last year.” WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 13 WWD.COM Record Crowd Flocks to B&B Barcelona Camprodon said. “After [opening in] Spain and Portugal, By Barbara Barker A look from we’ll begin with Italy and then move north.” Armand Basi’s BARCELONA — The fifth edition of Bread & Butter With an annual production fi gure of three million spring 2008 line. Barcelona, the Berlin-organized sportswear and con- pieces retailing from 50 to 100 euros, or $68 to $136 temporary apparel show, packed the fairground’s vin- at current exchange, Colcci distributes through its tage halls from July 4 to 6 with a record-breaking 91,000 Brazilian network of 120 franchised stores. visitors — doubling the attendance of a year ago. Snapping up skinny tank tops at Armand Basi, Sixty-fi ve percent of those attending came from 99 Paloma Fernandez, owner of the boutique Francesca countries, said founder and managing director Karl- Romana on Beach, Fla.’s Worth Avenue, said she was Heinz Müller. There were major buying groups from the shopping for “fresh merchandise, mainly swimwear and U.K., Spain, Portugal, Italy, Germany, France and “sig- separates from up-and-coming European labels that no- nifi cant” representation from Russia and Japan. body in the U.S. has seen. It’s our little project, to bring “We have huge public and municipal support here; we young designer brands to the U.S.” feel very much at home,” said Müller, adding that there “For high-season [December-April], everything in was substantial growth potential for 2008, including an Palm Beach is very Lilly Pulitzer — pastel pinks, or- increase in fl oor space, from 100,000 square meters to ange, fuchsia; and yellow and gray together will be hot 170,000 square meters, and two additional pavilions. colors, too,” she said. As for Bread & Butter, “This is Non-denim-oriented companies said their key ob- our second season. There is so much to see. You have jective was to gain greater worldwide market share to take plenty of time and through retail expansion and the introduction of new look around.” product categories. An upscale Barcelona- One of the fair’s weightier local exhibitors, Custodio based apparel brand, HILLIG MATTI PHOTOS BY Dalmau, designer-co-owner with brother David of Custo Basi continues to Barcelona, said the U.S. remains the brand’s strongest strengthen its retail pres- be marketed through a deal inked last month with market. In addition, the Barcelona-based label plans ence, launching three Showroom Seven. to roll out four new stores, beginning with San Antonio franchised stores in “The idea is to widen our customer base,” a next month. Other locations include Tampa, Fla., Russia within a year, said spokesman explained. With retail tags of $500 to Honolulu and a second shop in Puerto Rico, for a total Anna Jante, commercial $3,000, Armand Basi One is targeting upscale special- of 12 to 14 stores. All are company-owned, “but we are director. More locations ty stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, actively scouting franchise he said, “And as for the acceptance of luxury prices, partners in the U.S. for future there is no limit.” Basi’s bridge line retails from $150 retail ventures,” he said. to $250. The company used Bread Another key exhibitor, the Mallorca-based footwear & Butter Barcelona to launch fi rm Camper, known for its fanciful design concept, is two new product categories in the midst of an aggressive expansion plan that in- for spring 2008 — swimwear cludes opening 10 to 15 company-owned shops in the and handbags. next 12 months, said Dalia Saliamonas, international “The expanded fashion col- marketing director. lection is one of the upcoming Citing recent launches in Chile season’s strong points,” said and Brazil, she said upcoming loca- David Dalmau. “We’ve always A style tions are mainly in Europe with Japan, claimed we’re a T-shirt manu- from Custo Singapore and Indonesia on the draw- facturer but now it’s a little A Txell Miras Barcelona’s ing board. Eastern Europe, she added, more….We’re focusing on co- spring 2008 spring 2008 is “getting stronger.” ordinated colors and total Items from Colcci’s spring 2008 line. look. line. The new openings will be accompa- looks. We have a wide selec- nied by “an equally aggressive” outdoor tion of dresses — prints, knits, marketing campaign to include bill- silks — and lots of feminine new shapes with shine and are planned for Dubai, Kuwait, Lebanon, boards and bus shelters. bright colors. Viscose is a key fabric, especially for knit- Korea and Japan. Camper, which launched a kiddie wear, but the quality has to be exactly right.” In addition, the company operates 14 line this year, operates 210 stores world- The 29-style swimwear collection, mainly skimpy bi- stores in Spain and a fl agship in London’s wide, including shops in New York, kinis, features metallics and the label’s signature mix- Westbourne Grove. Boston, Los Angeles and San Francisco, match graphic patterns, with one of the season’s coolest In his third season, creative director Saliamonas said. cover-ups, a multicolored bolero in treated polyester. Markus Lupfer heads up Basi’s design The fair showcased young talents and With its special brand of Latino boho, Colcci is on the team. His fashion philosophy, which for lesser-known faces. Among them was move with an ambitious retail expansion plan that in- summer 2008 features snappy knits, tops, Txell Miras, whose fi ve-year-old name- cludes 40 European openings within the next four years, skirts, some dresses, patchwork, pop colors sake brand plays up what she calls “or- said Anna Camprodon, European franchising manager. like yellow and lime and Sixties infl uenc- ganic” cuts, volume and Kawakubo-like The Brazil-based producer of colorful tunic dresses, es, has increased Basi’s own-shop sales as proportions in traditional black and elongated tanks, layered tops, pants and shorts started much as 200 percent, Jante said. “In terms white. The 31-year-old Catalan, who de- its retail push in the U.S. last January. Anchored by a of increases, the London store has done the signs Neil Barrett’s women’s wear line, Santa Monica, Calif., showroom, the brand sells through best,” she added. never does color for her own label. 100 U.S. doors. Basi produces two women’s collections, Miras said she is scouting a showroom The fi rst shop in Spain opened last month in Bilbao both designed by Lupfer. The namesake core and representatives in Japan. The niche and another unit is set to bow in Lisbon’s hip Chiado line is distributed in the U.S. through MRM brand sells to the domestic market, Italy, district in October. Showroom in New York. A three-year-old Belgium, Hong Kong and New Zealand, “We have over 1,500 multibrand accounts in Europe,” high-end line called Armand Basi One will with a handful of accounts in the U.S. Mango Fetes Cruz Sisters’ New Collection IBIZA, Spain — Mango, Spain’s purveyor of fast Casi, Eugenia Martínez de Irujo, the Duchess of Montoro, and Mónica Cruz’s cur- fashion, tossed quite a party Monday night to rent squeeze, Paolo Antonini, an Italian stuntman. Other guests included Pierre launch the Penélope and Mónica Cruz fall-winter Casraghi, Princess Caroline of Monaco’s youngest son. Cornelia Guest, who had debut collection. said she was looking forward to the Ibiza party, was a no-show. The line is not a typical celebrity-name-only proj- By 1 a.m., Penélope and Mónica had packed it in but the party moved on to ect, Penélope Cruz insisted. “It’s very us and our Pacha, the oldest disco club on the island, until 7:30-ish, insiders said. taste and inspired by what we have in our closets.’’ The capsule line of 31 pieces was displayed on mannequins at the garden’s she said. “We are not professional designers, that’s entrance. It featured denim variations, including high-waisted and second-skin true, but we’re involved and connected to the fash- pants with wide-cuff effects, fake fur tops and jackets, shapely pintucked shirts, a ion world.” shearling vest, shift and pouf dresses, shorts, plaid, a few black party frocks and, in The setting was fairy-tale stuff — an alfresco general, lots of vintage references. lounge-bar and restaurant in the tropical gardens The sisters have been designing handbags and jewelry for three years for of Ibiza’s Hotel Atzaró. Dinner didn’t get under way Japanese retail chain Samantha Thavasa. until after 11 — not late by island-party standards, Creative input was “half-and-half and we don’t need words to understand each but some of the 30 or so fashion editors from as far other,’’ Penélope Cruz said. “We’re piña [glued-at-the-hip].” away as Canada and the Philippines seemed to be Mónica Cruz said she has shopped at Mango for years. “The collection has lots of nodding off before fi nishing their citrus-laced lob- variety, for customers aged 16 to 40 working women — and I can’t wait to wear it.” Mónica and ster salad. The line will hit selected Mango locations in September, a spokeswoman said. Penélope Cruz The Cruz sisters, both in black strapless Mango First-year sales projections were not available. The design duo revealed they are at Mango’s dresses, sat at the head table with company founder working on the Barcelona-based label’s spring-summer 2008 line. launch party. and president Isaac Andic, general manager Enric

PHOTO: COURTESY OF MANGO PHOTO: COURTESY — B.B. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 WWD.COM Stock Market Volatile Amid Torrid Chinese Economy By Lisa Movius and more state-owned enterprises have The Shanghai Stock Exchange. started putting their main assets into SHANGHAI — When Chinese greet each their stock listings, rather than just list- other, they usually politely inquire, ing subsidiary companies. However, the “Have you eaten?” But in the past few lack of transparency endemic to China’s months that has frequently morphed into, business climate means the true value of “Have you bought stocks today?” Now it a company is diffi cult to ascertain. has shifted to a downbeat, “Have you sold “Right now is a period of intense spec- stocks today?” ulation,” said Access Asia director Paul The Chinese juggernaut is speeding French. “The price is rising, so people up. Although China said Thursday that are moving in to speculate. However, ev- its economy grew at an annual rate of 11.9 eryone quotes the number of trading ac- percent in the second quarter, the most in counts opened, but a vast amount of those more than 10 years, that torrid pace car- are dead. Most people will open them, ries heightened risk that the economy will not do well, and move out. Also, people overheat and infl ation will soar. And there do open multiple accounts to manipulate is mounting pressure to raise interest the market. What we think — that ev- rates, which could chill the stock market. eryone is piling in — it is not as serious. Starting in April, Mainland Chinese Some people are in and out.” went on a stock-trading frenzy, with rumors On May 30, China’s Central Bank in- of overnight riches and insider tips swirl- creased the stamp tax on trading transac- ing. The whirlwind has turned China’s stock tions from 0.1 percent to 0.3 percent, pre- market into a feeding frenzy, and profes- cipitating a single-day record drop of 8.3 ZOU QING/AFP/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES sional services fi rm PwC recently forecast percent on June 4. As of June 28, less than limited to China, and even a steeper fall will rates have been rising since 2004, so that the capital raised in new share listings 150,000 new trading accounts were opened, have little impact on global markets. people are trying to pay it early, they are in China this year will exceed $52 billion, and Shanghai’s index had declined to 3,712. There was a common perception that very sensitive to interest rate rises. Forty- twice the fi gure it predicted in January. French stressed the government’s com- new wealth being generated from the fi ve to 50 percent goes into savings. Once According to the China Securities mitment to prevent overheating, as it did stock market would be funneled into high- the mortgage is paid off, they want assets. Depository and Clearing Corp., an aver- with the property market two years ago. er consumption. Supporting that hypothe- This annoys those who want the Chinese age of 440,000 individual trading accounts “The 0.3 percent tax increase, so low you sis, during the seven-day May Day holiday, to consume. Compare it with savings rates were opened per day in May, and 271,000 don’t even notice it, proved good for the retail sales rose 15.5 percent year-on-year, of 12 percent in Europe, 2 percent in the per day in June. On April 30, a record 1.1 government with the cumulative effect. reported the Ministry of Commerce. Sales U.S. In China, it is not savings so much as million new accounts were opened. Yuan- The fact that the small-time traders — what of consumer goods hit the equivalent of self-taxation, saving for a rainy day, when denominated A shares on the Shanghai in the West we call day traders — so many $41.4 billion. The increase was focused in they need an operation or whatnot. Since Composite Index went from about 1,000 of them got out, shows how very price-con- LCD televisions, air-conditioning units, there is no retirement or health insurance, two years ago to a peak of 4,300 at the end scious the Chinese are, and how respon- jewelry and clothing. people live 90 years, they practice self-tax- of May; the smaller Shenzhen Composite sive. The government got through without On the other hand, several stock-trading ation.” Government plans to end or reduce Index climbed similarly. a crash, and that is interesting, that China enthusiasts said the market activity either a 20 percent tax on bank deposit interest On Thursday, the Shanghai index plays it so local. More people are looking at had no impact on their consumption pat- income, which are also likely to further dropped 0.4 percent to 3,913, and the China now and thinking, ‘[Expletive] that, terns, or caused them to consume less than boost saving proclivities, are expected to Shenzhen index was up 0.2 to 1,082. that’s madness!’ with capitalism inverted usual. When the market was rising, their draw funds away from the stock market. The growth of the stock market was and the herd mentality of the market.” spare money and time was spent on buying Of those who have made profi ts, he propelled by small investors, many from Like many analysts and commentators, more stocks, rather than shopping. Now that continued, “my guess is that money made the lower- and middle-income brack- French shied away from calling the situa- it has slid, they are curtailing their spend- goes back to themselves in terms of paying ets, buying and selling as short-term tion a bubble. “I hate the term ‘bubble,’ it ing out of fear that they will lose money. off loans, or back into more stocks. The speculation rather than protracted in- says there is a point at which it will explode. French, whose consultancy tracks con- idiots are the ones who keep at it. They’re vestment. Peter Alexander, founder of Rather, China has multiple bubbles, liter- sumer behavior in China, said the stock not spending it shopping at Zara; and Z-Ben Advisors, speaking recently at ally thousands of them, when one bursts, market is “having no effect on retail and I’m not convinced that everyone wants the Shanghai Foreign Correspondents’ another grows. And bubbles don’t always luxury consumption. My impression is that a Prada bag anyhow. If they do spend it, Club, explained there was some sub- burst, they can defl ate.” He echoed the com- anyone who is making anything is spend- they will go for big-ticket practical items stance behind rising stock prices as more mon consensus that the current situation is ing to pay off their mortgages. Interest like a washing machine, or home decor.” WTO Offers New Plans to Salvage Doha Talks Congressional Committee OKs By John Zarocostas texts,” Lamy said. “But what separates them today is smaller than what unites them.” Proposal for Cargo Screening GENEVA — Reaction has been tepid to a proposal Stephenson told reporters the proposal is a start- from the chairmen of the World Trade Organization’s ing point for negotiations and noted it is likely to be By Kristi Ellis agriculture and industrial goods segments on lower- revised “one or more times,” and the fi nal outcome ing subsidies and duties for agricultural products “may look like this text, or it may not.” WASHINGTON — A Congressional conference committee on and industrial goods, a bid to advance the troubled “This deal is still doable and still within the Thursday approved a proposal to require 100 percent scanning of Doha Round of global trade talks. members’ grasp if they want it,” Stephenson said. U.S.-bound cargo containers at all foreign ports within five years. The plan, introduced this week by Don A spokesman for EU Trade Commissioner Peter The decision was a victory for Democrats and proponents of Stephenson, the Canadian chairman of the industri- Mandelson said, “Our fi rst reaction is that the texts tougher security measures, who have argued that the estimated 5 al market access talks, and Crawford Falconer, New provide a basis for further work in the Doha Round, percent scanning rate of the almost 12 million cargo containers en- Zealand’s chairman of the agriculture segment, came although there are points on which we have impor- tering the country is dangerously low and could provide a window less than a month after negotiations among the U.S., tant concerns and other signifi cant issues in the ne- of opportunity for terrorists trying to create chaos at U.S. ports. European Union, Brazil and India collapsed during gotiations that are not included in these texts.” U.S. apparel importers, who brought $89.2 billion worth of ministerial talks in Potsdam, Germany. A spokeswoman for U.S. Trade Representative clothing and textiles into the country last year, opposed the Stephenson’s draft on industrial tariffs extends Susan Schwab said, “The United States will partici- measure and were disappointed the committee passed it, ar- the time frame for lowering U.S. duties on 16 sensi- pate actively and constructively in the upcoming con- guing that the technology is not yet available and that even tive textile and apparel categories from developing sultations and negotiations over these texts, with the the slightest delay in clearing customs in foreign or U.S. ports countries that benefi t from preferential access to aim of ensuring that the revised texts defi ne a clear could interrupt the entire supply chain. six years from four years. A similar phase-in is rec- path for an ambitious and balanced result that gener- Sixty-fi ve House and Senate lawmakers were appointed to ommended for the EU on 23 tariff lines, including ates…new trade fl ows and market opportunities.” the conference committee to reconcile differences in two na- eight categories of textiles and apparel. Several diplomats said the industrial tariff plan tional security bills, and the cargo-scanning measure was one The delay by two years would benefi t countries was too aggressive, while the proposal to cut tariffs of fi ve unresolved issues the committee took up. The proposal with preferential trade pacts with the U.S., such and subsidies for agriculture was too mild. would mandate a phased-in application of technology to moni- as Lesotho, Mauritius, Madagascar, Kenya and the “I think there is an inherent imbalance between tor for radiation and weapons. Dominican Republic, and, in the case of the EU, na- the agriculture and the [nonagricultural market ac- “There is very little scanned before it arrives in the U.S.,” tions such as Bangladesh and Cambodia. cess] text,” Brazil’s foreign minister, Celso Amorim, said Rep. Bennie Thompson (D., Miss.), chairman of the House Stephenson’s plan suggests a fi nal duty rate for told reporters Thursday after talks with Lamy. Homeland Security Committee. “My amendment requires 100 per- rich nations of about 8 to 9 percent, and for devel- In the agriculture segment, Falconer came up with cent scanning of all containers coming to the U.S. This proposal is oping countries, between 19 and 23 percent. At the a plan that calls for U.S. farm subsidies to be capped not unrealistic. The technology for scanning exists today.” Potsdam talks, the EU and U.S. said they could live at around $13 billion to $16.4 billion. The proposal Thompson said he recognized that it takes time to deploy with an 18 percent maximum duty rate for develop- also includes the ambitious demand by African cot- all of the technology to foreign ports and noted that his amend- ing nations, but the counteroffer by Brazil was 25 ton-producing nations Benin, Mali, Burkina Faso and ment has a gradual implementation that ensures that ports will percent, along with demands for big cuts in farm Chad that cuts in domestic cotton subsidies be much have the time to purchase and install the equipment. He added subsidies by the U.S. and the EU. deeper than for other farm products. that the secretary of Homeland Security would have the au- Pascale Lamy, director general of the World The WTO’s 151 member states are to give initial thority to extend the phase-in of the technology for two years if Trade Organization, said the new texts constitute a reactions next week to the two proposals, and in foreign ports cannot meet the deadline. “fair and reasonable basis for reaching ambitious, September, begin negotiations to try to hammer The conference report must still be approved by the House balanced agreements.” out a deal in the talks that launched in 2001 in and Senate and signed into law by President Bush. “Members will not be fully satisfi ed with the Doha, Qatar. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 20, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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recruitment Reach top-level decision-makers in retail and manufacturing in WWD Marketplace. Leading Mfr. of Luxury Bathrobes, Slippers, Towels, and Linen is seeking Independent Sales Representatives. •Intimate Apparel sales experience •Strong following w/high-end boutiques, specialty retailers, and catalogers. •Presentation/follow-up skills imperative •Complimentary lines acceptable •Competitive Commission Structure E-mail: [email protected] or Fax resume to: (480) 922-8353 PHOTOS BY RICHARD PIERCE PHOTOS

WWD The Style Issue

Focus on styling products and tools. The “It” list of independent professional companies. An analysis of the natural and organic category in the salon sector. Hair trends from Paris couture runways. ISSUE: SEPTEMBER 7 CLOSE: AUGUST 2

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