5 Consumption

Women preparing food in the Pay Drechsel yard (Tamale, Ghana). Moving across different agro- higher fish consumption than any ecological zones in West Africa, other city. Vegetable consumption by starting in Accra at the is particularly high in Kumasi, Atlantic Ocean, towards Kumasi, where tomatoes and garden Tamale and finally Ouagadougou eggs are common. Accra has the (Figure 5.1), traditional diets highest household consumption are changing with culture and of fruits, especially oranges. In food that can be produced. These comparison, fruits and vegetables differences remain important are less prominent in Tamale despite global and regional trade, and Ouagadougou, which might multi-cultural diets and a trend also be linked to the increasingly toward urban fast food. drier climate (Figure 5.2).5.2 The In the example of the variations in amounts and types mentioned four cities,5.1 the of food influence the calorie and overall food Urban diets are protein intake consumption across the urban in kilogram undergoing change, but populations. peaks in Kumasi traditional meals still Overall, the (Figure 5.2), play an important role. protein supply which lies in the appears sufficient heart of the tuber belt and is in all cities and relatively high famous for its (heavy) tuber- in Accra and Ouagadougou, and plantain-based fufu dishes. based on the higher shares of fish In Ouagadougou, on the other and meat in the respective local hand, cereals like sorghum and consumptions. While cassava, yam millet as well as livestock meat and plantain have much lower play a major role in household protein levels than for example food consumption, while the sorghum and millet, beans are a share of fruits and vegetables common protein source in Kumasi increases towards the south, with (e.g., red-red dish, which refers to Accra also having the easiest red plantain and red beans) and access to fish and a significantly Tamale (e.g., Waakye, which refers

60 Sahel Zone

Sudan Savanna

Guinea Savanna

Transitional Zone

Moist semi-deciduous forest

Coastal Savanna Tropical rain forest

Figure 5.1. Agro-ecological zones in Ghana and Burkina Faso.5.1

Cereals and legumes sold in Tamale, Ghana.

Waakye: a popular dish in Ghana based on rice and beans.

Fresh vegetables offered at markets in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso.

Check-check: modern urban fast food consisting of rice, chicken, and raw salad (lettuce or cabbage).

61 12 10 8 6 4 kg / AEU*week 2 0 Accra Kumasi Tamale Ouaga Figure 5.2. Combined household and street food consumption of major food Cereals Tubers Beans Vegetables Fruit Animal products groups in kg per adult-equivalent unit (AEU) per week (fresh weight). to beans and rice). The average the main difference reflected in urban household in all four cities the urban diets is a shift in the keeps four to six chickens, which cities to more rice and meat- contribute to a regular supply of based meals and fewer tuber- eggs; in Kumasi the number is and plantain-based meals. The twice as high, and the surplus is difference also reflects a shift sold. to smaller family units and The amount of calories greater convenience in food consumed per day can, however, preparation, as rice-based meals be below what active adults are faster to prepare than the require, which is between 2000 traditional cassava/yam and and 3000 Kcal. The calorie intake plantain meals that require appears lowest in parts of Accra’s hours of pounding, usually by population where food prices unemployed home-based family and living costs peak, which members. The urban diet also motivates many households to shows a growing contribution of buy yam and plantain when food bought in street restaurants returning from the northern and canteens, which serve the countryside. The contribution working population as well of subsistence home production as the poor (see page 65). In (urban agriculture) to urban Accra, especially, poorer urban consumption varies strongly households can spend about with the size of available land, 40% of their food budget on but also ethnic preferences for street food. This is especially example in view of the types the case where homes do of local vegetables produced, not have sufficient water or and the distance from the space for cooking. The fast city.5.3, 5.4 Compared with national food served in streets, like consumption data in Ghana, the popular check-check (rice

In case of fresh vegetable fruit expenditures and purchases, households in daily consumption rates, a Tamale showed about 40% relationship also observed lower expenditures than for other food and non- households for example in food items, implying that Accra or Takoradi, despite nutritional programs might lower market prices. Well- be most successful if linked educated and high-income to initiatives supporting households have higher an increased household Fresh vegetables sold at a market in fresh vegetable and fresh income.5.6, 5.7 Ouagadougou.

62 Consumers' stated safe vegetables and unsafe was 120%. This shows that willingness to pay for food vegetables are supplied consumers are highly sensitive safety in Tamale together and they are traded about the health risks of Christina Seeger and Wilhelm at the same market price. agrochemicals and wastewater Löwenstein This makes it impossible for in agricultural production and Smallholder farmers cultivating consumers to differentiate safe consumers' preference for in Tamale often rely on the use vegetables from contaminated product differentiation. of wastewater for irrigation and ones prior purchase. One lack knowledge regarding the option to guarantee consumers safe use of agrochemicals in that vegetables are safe is agricultural production. Thus, certification. We assessed how consumers are likely exposed consumers in Tamale value to health risks, especially food safety by asking them to when eating raw vegetables state their willingness to pay like cabbage. Of the 318 a price premium for certified consumers surveyed in safe cabbage. Roughly 97% of Tamale, 65% were concerned the respondents are willing to Market stall in the central market in Tamale. with agrochemical and pay a higher price for certified wastewater use in agriculture, vegetables. The estimated For more information: and they were aware of the Seeger, C., Löwenstein, W. (forthcoming). price premium on the average Trust, certification, and consumers’ willing- health risks associated with it. market price for one averaged ness to pay for safe vegetables in Tamale, However, at the local markets, sized certified cabbage Ghana, IEE Working Paper. Bochum. and chicken), supports in all cities the production of exotic vegetables, which form a side dish. As these leafy vegetables, like lettuce, are highly perishable, production takes place in close market proximity on otherwise unused urban open spaces where polluted water may be used for irrigation. The majority of all traded lettuce (60% in Accra and 83% in Kumasi) ends in the street Irrigated lettuce field in food sector. The remaining share Ouagadougou’s city center. goes to restaurants, canteens and hotels. Private households in Ghana take only about two percent of the production, which reflects the ‘exotic’ character of raw salads in the national diet. The share of salad consumption is likely to be higher in parts of Ouagadougou’s population, given its exposure to the French cuisine, than in the Ghanaian cities. When asked about possible health risks, consumers are concerned (see above) although in real life they hardly ask about the origin of their vegetables and care more about fresh appearance and neatness.5.5

63 Shifts in dietary patterns, with the food economy, from the farm more processed foods being level to processing, packaging, consumed, are significantly transportation, distribution and influencing not only food retailing, providing jobs for 82 production, but also the post- million people. About 35% of harvest sector. Demand for jobs in urban areas are in the convenience is an overarching food economy. About 60% of trend across income groups and these urban jobs are in marketing is reflected in the and food away from home, in strong demand contrast to 15% in rural areas.5.8 Women dominate the for processed These transformations open and prepared new opportunities for value post-harvest food sector foods and in addition and gender-specific in West Africa. the expansion employment creation, especially of street food. in the off-farm segments of The combined the value chain (Figure 5.3). In effects of rapid urbanization, urban areas, one out of three population growth and resulting jobs for women (one out of transformations in food demands seven for men) are in off-farm have had major impacts on the food activities. Food processing size of the West African food and food-away-from-home economy. Such effects have services are growing and also contributed to the rapid lucrative activities. Given the development of non-agricultural size of the food economy, its postharvest activities, such functioning, competitiveness as processing, packaging, and development will have distribution and retail. According major impacts on employment to the OECD, across West Africa, structures and gender-specific 66% of total employment is in job opportunities.5.8

In % 100

0 Agriculture Processing Marketing Food away from home

Figure 5.3. Share of women‘s employment by food system activity in West Africa.5.8

64 Food consumption consumed by over 90% of the with the economic status of and malnutrition in urban dwellers interviewed, households and with food Ouagadougou either boiled with or without expenditures. The ‘snacking’ Pay Drechsel cereal-based meals like behavior was strong among Despite a large variety of food couscous, or in groundnut younger, unmarried people consumed in Ouagadougou, sauce. However, despite having a formal job, whereas many food items are seldom the reasonable frequency of the ‘modern foods’ pattern was served, particularly foods such vegetable intake, the less pronounced in districts from animal sources such quantities consumed remain with a high proportion of as dairy products and eggs. low and cooking is causing a Muslims or particular ethnic Still, the variety of the city loss of nutrients, while on the groups, like Mossi.5.9 diet remains higher than other hand the consumption A typical urban challenge, that of people living in rural of ‘snacks’ is on the increase. not only in Ouagadougou, is Burkina Faso. The typical A statistical analysis of the the co-existence of obesity daily diet in Ouagadougou most prominent groups of and undernutrition within the consists largely of cereals, food consumed revealed two urban area. The two most vegetables and fats from dietary patterns: ‘snacking’ recent demographic and health vegetable sources. Sweetened (frequent food consumption surveys showed an unchanged products, fried foods, dairy outside the main meals) and picture with about 30% of products, non-fatty meats, ‘modern foods’ (scrambled women living in Ouagadougou nuts, seeds, fruits and other eggs, chicken, tomato being overweight or obese, as vegetables are also frequently sauce, pastas, cheese, compared to only about 6% of consumed during the week, meat, sodas, soup, French their rural counterparts. In the while eggs are consumed less dressing, hamburger), which same city, however, between than once a week. Among are both typically urban. Both 17 to 18% of children below the nutritious ‘vegetables’, patterns were positively and the age of five show wasting or the leaves of Amaranth are independently associated stunting.5.9, 5.10, 5.11

Streetfood sold in Accra, Ghana.