HOVENWEEP NATIONAL MONUMENT

UTAH COLORADO protect their water supply if they were 20 feet in height. Loopholes at stra­ HOVENWEEP THE HOVENWEEP PEOPLE to withstand prolonged enemy pressure. tegic points in these walls command the There were other advantages to these approaches to buildings, to trails, and The prehistoric inhabitants of Hoven­ locations. Several canyon heads are especially, to all approaches to the weep were Pueblo Indians. They were somewhat higher in elevation and afford springs. Tumbled piles of masonry on part of a large farming group which long, unobstructed views of the country­ the talus slopes below the canyon rims; NATIONAL MONUMENT occupied the Four Corners, or San Juan, side. The long draws (wide, shallow gul­ multistoried, many roomed pueblos along region of Colorado, Utah, Arizona and lies) draining to the canyons could be the rims; small cliff dwellings tucked New Mexico from before A. D. 400 until terraced for farming. Such terraces beneath the overhanging ledges; towers almost A. D. 1300. The culture of the held back the soil, provided sheet-water built on hugh boulders in the canyon Remarkably preserved prehistoric Pueblo ruins clustered at the heads of Hovenweep people was identical with that irrigation in case of rain and could be bottoms and on narrow ledges or on the of the Mesa Verde people who lived in rocky canyons in the famed "Four Corners" region of the Southwest. watched from the village rooftops. exposed rimrock; the presence of vast what is now Mesa Verde National Park, In A. D. 1276, a 24-year drought quantities of refuse scattered over the Colo. The descendants of these ancient started in the San Juan area. Harassed canyon slopes attest to the presence of people are the present-day Pueblo Indians by enemy pressure, the people were now a once sizeable population. There can West of Cortez, Colo., in the vast and The Cajon Group also lies in Utah but of New Mexico and Arizona. concentrated in restricted areas and be little doubt that as many people as desolate mesa-canyon country north of the its two large pueblos have been injured When the Pueblo Indians arrived in were unable to cope with such a prolong­ the springs and limited farmland could San Juan River, is Hovenweep National considerably by vandalism. The Holly or the San Juan region they were just begin­ ed drought. Failing crops and diminish­ support once lived in this now desolate Monument. It was set aside by Presiden­ Keeley Group, the Hackberry Canyon Group, ning to farm and settle down. At first ing water supplies forced them to abandon c oun try. tial proclamation in 1923, to preserve and Cutthroat Castle each contain numer­ they took shelter in shallow caves but the Four Corners area before A. D. 1300. its outstanding archeological remains. ous towers and large pueblos. Goodman before long they learned to build houses They drifted south to the Rio Grande and ABOUT YOUR VISIT Located along the Colorado-Utah line, the Point includes a very large, unexcavated and soon spread out over the wide val­ Little Colorado drainages and never monument comprises six impressive groups pueblo and several smaller sites. These leys and broad mesa tops. Their first returned. If you are seeking the unusual and of pueblo ruins situated in and around last four groups are in Colorado. These homes, crude pithouses, were later re­ 77ie Square Tower, -in the Square Tower Group, Utah Pueblo and tower walls are construc­ are able to leave your modern self be­ the heads of small, rocky box canyons. detached sections of the monument are placed by surface rooms built in contig­ ted of excellent, coursed stone masonry hind and visualize the past, then Hoven­ These ruins, which are excellent examples isolated, difficult of access, and none uous rows. In the 900's, stone masonry and though most mortar has long since weep offers you a unique experience. Do of defensive architecture, are noted for of the five compare to the Square Tower became popular, and from that time to disappeared, some walls still stand over not expect to visit this monument without their numerous square, oval, circular, cluster in extent or preservation. the present, these people have been In the early 1100's, nomadic groups ap­ and D-shaped towers. Hovenweep is aUte Indian word meaning constructing multistoried, terraced parently began drifting into the region The most extensive, spectacular, and the "deserted valley." The Utes' name pueblos. in increasing numbers for the farmers The Twin Towers, in the Square Tower Group, Utah best preserved group is the Square Tower for this region was first applied by the Like their descendants, these ancient deserted many small villages in favor of Canyon cluster in Utah. This group, con­ famous "Pioneer Photographer," William H. Pueblo Indians were farmers who raised larger, compact pueblos. By A. D. 1200 taining 19 different buildings, was Jackson who visited the ruins, in 1874. corn, beans, squash, and cotton in small the Pueblo people tended to withdraw named for a magnificent Square Tower in The extensive archeological survey of fields. Many wild plant foods also were completely from the open valleys and the head of the canyon. Hovenweep Castle Hovenweep was made by Dr. J. W. Fewkes utilized, animals and birds were hunted mesa tops to more defensible sites lo- is the largest pueblo in the cluster and in 1917-18. Dr. Fewkes, intensely inter­ or trapped, and the turkey was domesti­ cai-eu near permanent springs. The for­ has walls that measure 60 feet long and ested in the preservation of these spec­ cated. These people were expert artists tified pueblos and towers of Hovenweep still stand 20 feet high. Twin Towers, tacular ruins, recommended that they be and craftsmen who produced a wide vari­ and cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde were Stronghold House, and Hovenweep House protected by setting them aside as a ety of tools, utensils, ceremonial ob­ constructed at this time. are other imposing structures seen here. national monument. jects, jewelry, and articles of dress. The Pueblo Indians chose the heads of Their social and religious organization Hovenweep canyons as village sites for a apparently was well-developed and com­ specific reason: Springs in the heads The National Park System, of which this area is a unit, is dedicated to plex. of these canyons furnish the only per­ conserving the scenic, scientific and historic heritage of the United States for For centuries, the Pueblos lived in manent water for the area. By A. D. 1200, the benefit and enjoyment of its people. peace and security and their small vil­ when the pueblos and towers were built lages were scattered over wide areas. here, it was imperative that the people HOVENWEEP NATIONAL MONUMENT

Hovenweep Castle, in the Square Tower Group, Utah some difficulty, however, for Hovenweep is impassable in times of storm and often is isolated. There are no paved roads, requires use of four-wheel drive equip­ no accommodations, stores, service sta­ ment. tions, or wood; and there is NO WATER Picnic grounds are located at monument that today can be used by man. But there headquarters at the Square Tower Group. are fair approach roads, provided it is No supplies of any kind are available. not storming, and a park ranger is on Be sure to carry your own WATER AND WOOD. duty. The best approach to Hovenweep is from ADMINISTRATION Pleasant View, Colo., 18 miles north of Cortez on U. S. 160. Turn west at the Hovenweep National Monument, cover­ sign and follow the graded road 27.2 ing more than 500 acres, is administered miles to Square Tower Group, Utah. State by the National Park Service of the U. S. Route 146, leaving U. S. 666 three miles Department of the Interior. The area is south of Cortez, and approaching Hoven­ under the direct supervision of the Su­ weep via McElmo Canyon, is not recommend­ perintendent, Mesa Verde National Park, ed if it is or has been storming. Aprim- Colo. A park ranger maintains headquar­ itive road approaching Hovenweep from the ters at the Square Tower Group, Utah. west, which leaves Utah State Route 47 Address all inquiries to Superintendent, midway between Blanding and Bluff, Utah, Mesa Verde National Park, Colo.

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR Fred A. Seaton, Secretary NATIONAL PARK SERVICE, Conrad L. Wirth, Director UTAH COLORADO INT.-DUP. SEC, WASH., D.C. 2W910 1957 Cover Photo: The Square Tower Group, Square Tower Canyon, Utah