For Tania DAY WALKS in 100 Great Tracks

Text and photographs by Shaun Barnett Maps by Roger Smith, Geographx

Sunrise on Aoraki/Mt Cook from Hooker Valley Acknowledgements

I would like to thank a number of people who have been great walking companions: David Barnes, Angela Barnett, Grant Barnett, Rob Brown, Dave Chowdhury, Andy Dennis, Dave Hansford, Andrew Lynch, Ken MacIver, Chris Maclean, Geoff Norman, Darryn Pegram, Jock Phillips, Mark Stanton, Tania Stanton, Tom Stanton-Barnett, Lee Stanton-Barnett and Louise Thornley. A number of other people also provided help with advice, transport or accommodation, which was greatly appreciated: Rob Brown and Elise Bryant, Liz and Mike Sampson, Jason Roxburgh, Darryn Pegram and Rachel Bryce, Bruce Postill, Rob Hungerford, Ruth Hungerford and Simon Ashworth, Mark Stanton and Heather Mitchell, Alison Taylor and David Sinclair, David Barnes and Anne-Marie McIlroy, Viv Milne.

The DOC website (www.doc.govt.nz), as well as their brochures and information panels proved to be excellent sources of information. It goes without saying that any mistakes are mine alone: if you find a significant error, email or write to the publisher, as I would appreciate knowing about it for future editions.

Unless otherwise credited, all photos are by Shaun Barnett/Black Robin Photography.

First published in 2007 by Craig Potton Publishing

Reprinted 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011

Craig Potton Publishing 98 Vickerman Street, PO Box 555, Nelson, New Zealand www.craigpotton.co.nz

© Maps by Geographx

© Photography and text: Shaun Barnett and individual photographers

ISBN: 978-1-877333-67-5

Printed in China by Midas Printing International Ltd

This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of private study, research, criticism or review, as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be reproduced by any process without the permission of the publishers.

Opposite Tramper in the water-eroded limestone of Sawcut Gorge, 5 Isolation Hill Scenic Reserve, Kaikoura 1 CONTENTS

3 4 Introduction 10 Northland 16 Rotorua 54 1 Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway 23 Tarawera Falls and Lake Tarawera 24 Lake Okataina Scenic Reserve Bream Head Scenic Reserve, Whangarei 18 2 Te Whara Track Tongariro National Park 56 9 25 Tongariro Alpine Crossing 2 Puketi Forest, Northland 20 3 Waihoanga Gorge Kauri Walk Tongariro National Park 58 8 26 Tama Lakes and Taranaki Falls Whangamumu Scenic Reserve 21 7 4 Whangamumu Harbour, Bay of Islands Tongariro National Park 60 27 Lake Rotopounamu 11 12 Waitakere Ranges Regional Park 22 5 Karekare–Pararaha Lake Taupo 62 6 Montana Heritage Trail 28 Kawakawa Bay 13, 14 Hauraki Gulf 26 Boundary Stream Scenic Reserve, Hawke’s Bay 63 6 7 Rangitoto Island 29 Shine Falls 15 Hauraki Gulf 28 Hawke’s Bay 64 8 Tiritiri Matangi Island 30 Otatara Pa Historic Reserve 30 Hawke’s Bay 66 5 10 23, 24 Tawharanui Regional Park 9 Maori Bay Coast Walk 31 Cape Kidnappers Gannet Reserve 18 Hunua Ranges Regional Park 32 Kaweka Forest Park 68 17 10 Hunua Falls & Cosseys Dam 32 Kaweka J 33 Kaweka Flats 16 Coromandel Peninsula 33 11 Coromandel Walkway Ruahine Forest Park 70 20 34 Sunrise Hut Coromandel Forest Park 35 28 72 19 21 12 Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Tararua Forest Park 41 35 Mt Holdsworth Kaimai–Mamaku Forest Park 37 27 36 Atiwhakatu Valley 13 Kauri Loop Walk, Waitawheta Valley 14 Karangahake Gorge Historic Walkway Wairarapa 74 37 Castlepoint Scenic Reserve 29 22 Kaimai–Mamaku Forest Park 41 30 15 Wairere Falls Wairarapa 76 31 38 Putangirua Pinnacles Scenic Reserve 40 39 King Country 42 Egmont National Park 77 32, 33 16 Tawarau Forest 39 Dawson Falls and Wilkies Pools Pirongia Forest Park 44 40 Mangorei Track and Pouakai Range 25 17 Mangakara Nature Walk & Ruapanae 42 43 26 Taranaki 81 Pirongia Forest Park 46 41 Whitecliffs Walkway 34 18 Te Toto Gorge & Mt Karioi Whanganui National Park 83 47 35, 36 Pureora Forest Park 48 37 42 Bridge to Nowhere 19 Mt Pureora 48 46 Wanganui 84 East Coast 49 43 Bushy Park 20 Cook’s Cove Walkway 38 Wellington 86 Te Urewera National Park 50 44 Butterfly Creek, East Harbour Regional Park 21 Lake Waikareiti 45 Orongorongo Track, Rimutaka Forest Park 49 44, 45 Whirinaki Forest Park 52 Tararua Forest Park, Wellington 90 22 Arahaki Lagoon and Te Whaiti Nui A Toi Canyon 46 Smith Creek and Tauherenikau River Wellington 92 Lewis Pass National Reserve, Canterbury 136 51, 52 47 Kapiti Island Nature Reserve 75 Nina Hut 53 58, 59 76 Cannibal Gorge 50 Porirua, Wellington 94 77 Lewis Pass Tops 48 Colonial Knob Walkway Port Hills, Canterbury 140 96 Wellington 78 Sign of the Packhorse 54, 55 49 Makara Walkway 56, 57 60, 61 Arthur’s Pass National Park 142 64, 65 Puponga Farm Park, Golden Bay 98 79 Avalanche Peak 50 Wharariki Beach 80 Otira Valley 81 Bealey Spur and Hut 67, 68 Abel Tasman National Park 100 69 51 Totaranui to Separation Point Canterbury 146 52 Taupo Point 66 63 82 Mt Somers Abel Tasman National Park 104 Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park 148 53 Te Pukatea Bay and Pitt Head 83 Sealy Tarns 74 Kahurangi National Park 106 84 Hooker Valley 75, 76, 77 62 54 Lake Sylvester and the Lockett Range Kanuka Scenic Reserve, Central Otago 150 55 Asbestos Cottage 85 Kanuka Track 71 56 Mt Arthur and the Tableland 79, 80 72 57 Lodestone West Matukituki Valley, Mount Aspiring National Park 152 81 70 86 Aspiring Hut Nelson Lakes National Park 110 87 Rob Roy Glacier 58 Bushline Hut and Mt Robert 59 Lake Rotoiti The Stack Conservation Area, Wanaka 154 73 88 Roys Peak 78 Marlborough Sounds 112 83, 84 60 Mt Stokes Queenstown 156 61 Ship Cove, Queen Charlotte Track 89 Ben Lomond Track 92 90 86, 87 Kaikoura 114 Mount Aspiring National Park 158 82 62 Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway 90 Routeburn Falls, Routeburn Track Isolated Hill Scenic Reserve 116 Otago Peninsula, Otago 160 63 Sawcut Gorge 91 Sandfly Bay 88 93 Kahurangi National Park, West Coast 117 Fiordland National Park 162 94, 95 85 64 Heaphy Coastline 92 Milford Sound Foreshore and Bowen Falls 89 65 Oparara Basin Fiordland National Park 164 Paparoa National Park, West Coast 120 93 Gertrude Saddle 66 Pororari–Punakaiki Loop Fiordland National Park 166 96 Westport 122 94 Key Summit, Routeburn Track 67 Charming Creek Walkway 95 Lake Marian 91 68 Denniston Walkway Fiordland National Park 170 Victoria Forest Park 126 96 Shallow Bay 69 Murray Creek Goldfields Track The Catlins, South Otago 172 97, 98 Westland/Tai Poutini National Park, West Coast 128 97 Nugget Point, Cannibal Bay, Purakaunui Falls 70 Alex Knob 98 Catlins River Walk, Catlins Forest Park 71 Harihari Coastal Walk Rakiura National Park, Stewart Island 176 99, 100 Westland/Tai Poutini National Park, West Coast 132 99 Maori Beach, Port William 72 Okarito Pack Track 100 Ulva Island, Paterson Inlet Westland/Tai Poutini National Park 134 References and further reading 73 Lake Matheson Lewis Pass National Reserve 135 74 Lake Daniells introduction

Walking is one of life’s great pleasures. Walkers can stride pendicular walls of rocks, precipices, and deep ravines, out knowing they are doing something physically good for form a combination of difficulties which must be en- themselves and probably something good for their minds countered to be adequately understood… as well. There is nothing like a good stroll to shake off petty worries, to gain a clean and clear perspective on the bur- Ironically, it was only as the ‘wilderness’ was tamed, burnt dens of busy, modern lives. and beaten back that New Zealanders began to truly ap- The luxury of spending a decent length of time with preciate walking and scenery for its own sake. With the de- your companions is another great aspect of walking. You velopment of road and rail in New Zealand in the latter half can walk and talk, but equally, you can walk but feel no of the nineteenth century, the accessibility of many scenic compulsion to communicate – companionable silence is places increased. The first national park, Tongariro, was acceptable. Equally, walking alone offers great rewards; in formed in 1887, and the first scenic reserves in 1903. Later, your own company you have the luxury of striding at your in 1954, came the first forest park, Tararua Forest Park. own pace with your own thoughts. Early walking tracks followed the routes of Maori trails, Not surprisingly, the best walking in New Zealand lies gold prospectors and surveyors, but by the early twentieth in those parts of the country where nature still holds sway; century tracks were being developed specifically for the where streams tumble through forest, where mountains pleasure they provided. shoulder into the sky and birds chime. It is largely from A. H. Reed, one of New Zealand’s most prodigious walk- these areas that the walks in this book are drawn, although ers (and founder of the country’s oldest publishing firm) there are some in rural and urban settings too. summed up the pleasure of walking with these words writt­ Walking for pleasure is a pastime with a comparatively en in 1917: short history in New Zealand. Certainly for Maori and early European explorers, walk- Life has been aptly likened to a walk. We start out with Department of Lands & Survey and the New Zealand For- help make the experience of walking here distinctive. ing provided the main means of getting about. Then, in vim and vigour in the early morning, and, sooner or est Service actively developed tracks for recreation, until in In addition, there are no snakes or savage animals in frequently mountainous and heavily forested terrain, often later, settle down to a steady walk, while at eventide 1987 both merged to form the Department of Conserva- New Zealand, and the only poisonous spider is the shy and untracked, walking was usually anything but enjoyable. we turn our eyes towards our resting place, from which tion who manage the majority of walks described in this increasingly endangered katipo, the bite of which is almost Some four decades after English poet William Words- we look to set out with renewed vigour on the morrow. book. never fatal. worth was gambolling about the walking tracks of Brit- Sometimes the skies are sunny and sometimes over- Today, New Zealand rates as one of the best countries ain and Europe’s scenic spots, and writing romantic verse cast. Now the road [track] is rough and stony, and pres- in the world for walking. Very few other countries offer such A Brief Guide to New Zealand’s Natural Areas about the experience, New Zealand explorer Thomas Brun- ently a stretch of grassy sward. Sometimes a stream is a diversity of terrain, ranging from coastal to mountain, in Fully a third of New Zealand’s land area is managed by the ner was struggling through the wilds of the Buller River. In crossed, from the cool clear water of which a refreshing such a small area. New Zealand has tracks in areas that fea- Department of Conservation, and by far the majority of an account of the epic five months he toiled in the Buller, draught is taken; or, for awhile we rest under a grove ture active volcanoes, hot springs, moss-laden rainforests, walks in this book lie on this land. DOC administers this land Brunner wrote: of shady trees… And always there is the mystery and ragged fault ranges, glacier-carved valleys, island-studded under a range of categories that include: hopeful anticipation of the unknown that lies ahead. lakes and golden-sand coastlines. Large granite rocks heaped confusedly together all Because New Zealand has been isolated from other over the surface, with a thick growth of underbrush New Zealand’s first tramping club, Wellington’s Tararua landmasses for over 65 million years, much of the flora and and briers, an immense quantity of dead and rotten Tramping Club was formed in 1919, and many others be- fauna here is also unique. Amongst many other examples, timber, and all these on the steep and broken declivities gan in the 1920s and 1930s. Clubs played a crucial role in creatures like the (the only alpine parrot in the world) Above The beech forested flanks of the St Arnaud Range, of a range of high mountains, interspersed with per- providing transport and developing tracks. Later, both the and plants like the kauri (a tree of great girth and grandeur) Nelson Lakes National Park

10 11 National Parks However, the idea was whittled down to a more manage- New Zealand has 14 national parks ranging from Te Ure- able task, and currently there are 125 walkways. These wera National Park in the North Island to Rakiura National range from just one kilometre to the 65 kilometre long St Park on Stewart Island. Generally, national parks are large, James Walkway. mountainous and scenically spectacular. The former Department of Lands & Survey had responsibility for man- Taking dogs aging them (along with scenic reserves) until DOC took Dogs are prohibited on all tracks in national parks, wildlife over this role in 1987. refuges and nature reserves. For other areas, such as forest and regional parks, dogs are often permitted unless they Forest Parks pose a risk to local populations of ground birds such as kiwi New Zealand has 19 forest parks, ranging from Northland or . Where the tracks pass through sections of farm- Forest Park to Catlins Forest Park in Otago–Southland. Like land, as do many walkways, local farmers may not allow national parks, they are generally large and often mountain- dogs which could disrupt stock. If dogs are prohibited this ous, although often have a more subtle beauty. All forest is usually indicated on the sign at the start of the walk. parks were established by the former New Zealand Forest Service between the years 1954 and 1984, partly to com- Walk selection plement the country’s then growing number of national Walks selected for this book were chosen from throughout parks. Today, like national parks, they are managed by DOC. New Zealand, reflecting a range of length, difficulty, terrain and natural history. They were selected to suit a range of Scenic Reserves abilities from the novice walker to the experienced. Very New Zealand boasts literally hundreds of scenic reserves, few of the walks featured are beyond the abilities of a mod- ranging from tiny patches of bush to quite large forests. erately fit person with some tramping experience. None They are the main type of reserve; others include nature involve any serious off-track travel, and generally tracks are reserves (such as Kapiti Island), scientific reserves (such as well marked and of a high standard. Tiritiri Matangi Island), recreation reserves, and a national Selecting what I consider to be the best of the coun- reserve (of which there is only one, at Lewis Pass). try’s walks was necessarily subjective. I have tried to cover a range of scenery, length and difficulty, while at the same Easy: Expect gentle terrain, well-marked tracks, no river less fit walker will struggle to match the times suggested by Other Areas time making the coverage nationwide. Although someone crossings, and walking times of 2–3 hours. a ‘hard’ walk. In other words, the easier the walk, the more DOC also manages some farm parks, of which the Cape else might argue for an entirely different list, together the Medium: The walker may come across un-bridged river generous the time given. Colville Farm Park (Coromandel Walkway) is just one. In addi- 100 walks detailed here reflect the great diversity of New crossings, steep sections of track, or some travel on open tion to areas managed by DOC, some of the walks covered Zealand walking. tops. Travel times could be 5–6 hours per day. Alternative routes in this book are maintained by local bodies. In Wellington, for Hard: These trips will often entail walking for more than 6 Wherever possible, both shorter and longer alternatives to example, the Wellington Regional Council manages a sys- Length and difficulty hours, may involve steeper sections of terrain where a head the walk described are mentioned. Some walks that pass tem of regional parks providing many excellent walking op- Each walk is classified according to difficulty, which read- for heights is preferable and navigation skills required. huts offer the possibility of turning the walk into an over- portunities. Similarly, in Auckland, there are several regional ers should note depends very much on conditions. Wet night tramp. For this reason, details of hut capacity have parks such as the Waitakere Ranges and Hunua Ranges. weather could very well turn a medium tramp into a hard, A note on walking times been included. or even impossible one, while winter snow may transform Walkers must expect some variation in times depending on Walkways a medium trip into one that requires mountaineering skills. conditions. In summer a hard-baked track will provide much Keeping information up to date Walkways have special status, for they cross land of vary- When selecting a walk it is important to take the abilities of firmer and faster footing than the same track churned to Although every effort has been made to ensure information ing tenure, sometimes including private farmland. Origi- all party members into consideration. mud in winter. I have tried to tailor times for the likely ability in this guide is both correct and up to date, please remem- nally the idea, sparked by the Federated Mountain Clubs Each walk is classified ‘easy’, ‘medium’ or ‘hard’ with some of walkers in each grade. For example, a fit and experienced ber that wild places change constantly. Floods alter rivers, and Auckland tramper Bob Usheer in the early 1970s, was in between. By far the majority fall into the ‘easy’ or ‘medium’ walker will probably be able to halve some of the times sug- for a walking track spanning the length of the country. categories. gested for an ‘easy’ walk. Conversely, an inexperienced and Above Lake Okataina, Rotorua, at sunset

12 13 volcanoes erupt from time to time and storms or earth- In the mountains, where many of the walks in this book quakes can devastate forests and tracks. Furthermore, the are located, snow can fall at any time of year, although obvi- condition of tracks varies according to how recently they ously is rarer during summer. Some parts of New Zealand, have been maintained. For these reasons, trampers should particularly the West Coast and Fiordland, experience some always check with the local Department of Conservation of the highest rainfall in the world – some 7–9 metres of (DOC) visitor centre for updates before their intended trip. rain falls at Milford Sound annually, while one year a West The relevant DOC telephone number has been given for Coast valley near Hokitika received over 15 metres of rain. each tramp. DOC’s website www.doc.govt.nz is also an Heavy rain can, on rare occasions, make sections of some excellent source of information. tracks or stream crossings impassable. If you do find any safety hazards – such as a bridge Walkers need to respect and plan around the weather. washed out, or a new slip on a track – please report it. Always obtain a forecast before you leave, and be prepared Tel: DOC HOTline, or Tel: 0800 362 468. to pare back or change your plans accordingly. As a general rule, late summer and autumn (January to Maps April) are the best months for walking in the . The maps in this book are digital images created by Roger During these times the temperatures are at their mildest, Smith, the director of Geographx, a Wellington-based com- the rainfall is generally less, and the probability of snow un- pany that specialises in advanced digital mapping. Roger’s likely. Spring and early summer (September to December) superb maps – perhaps oblique panoramas are a better offers the delights of alpine flowers, but in very mountain- description – do what no photograph can achieve: offer a ous terrain avalanches may pose a risk. For those who are complete overview of each tramp, showing tracks, huts, and suitably equipped and experienced, winter (May to August) major features. For more information, refer to Landforms: the offer its own rewards: generally fewer people, sometimes shaping of New Zealand, in Further Reading. crisp, long spells of fine weather, and all the glories of snow- While these maps indicate tracks, huts and major top- capped mountains. In the North Island, excepting the cen- ographical features, they are not intended to be used for tral plateau, Mt Taranaki and main axis mountain ranges, navigation. No map will be necessary for many of the easy walkers can expect milder, snow-free weather all year and some of the medium walks, but if in doubt you should round. For further information check out: www.metservice. Safety and equipment good brochures and manuals on safety in the outdoors purchase a NZMS 260 series 1:50,000 scale topographical co.nz and www.avalanche.net.nz There is not the scope in this book to give a detailed de- www.mountainsafety.org.nz map or appropriate track map. The correct map(s) number scription of equipment and safety, but a brief list of what for each tramp is included in the fact file at the end of each Water, rubbish and conservation should be carried for a typical medium or hard day walk is Intentions chapter. Note that ‘true left’ refers to the left bank of a river The quality of water available on any particular track de- as follows: warm woolly hat, sunhat, gloves, raincoat, warm Signing an intentions book at the track start does not guar- when facing downstream, and ‘true right’ to the right bank. pends on its location. For rural and coastal walks, it is advis- jersey or fleece, pair of polypropylene or woollen long- antee that anyone will notice you have become overdue. For some of the regional parks in the Auckland region, the able to carry your own water. However, in more mountain- johns, wool or polypropylene top, a pair of shorts, first-aid Walkers must leave their intentions, including possible bad brochures produced by the Auckland Regional Council are ous back-country areas, you can most likely still safely drink kit, map, compass, sunscreen, and enough food for the trip weather alternatives, with a trusted friend who can, in the often more accurate and useful than the topographical straight from streams. The water-borne parasite Giardia is duration plus a few extra emergency snacks. Obviously event of your party becoming overdue, be relied upon to maps. present in some streams and lakes, so if in doubt, carry wa- many of these items will be superfluous on a short, coastal contact the police Search and Rescue (SAR): Tel 111 and ask ter treatments or use a water filter. walk in summer. for police. If you pass by huts during your walk, sign the hut Seasons and weather Take care when toileting. If there is no longdrop, go to For hard trips you may want to take a flysheet and book so that your route can be followed in the event you New Zealand’s temperate latitude fools some visitors to the toilet at least 100 metres away from water sources, and sleeping mat in case of an emergency night out. In win- become overdue or have an accident. this country into thinking that the weather will always be bury your wastes in a shallow ‘cat scrape.’ ter you may need to add ice axe, crampons, sunglasses, mild. Although tempered by its maritime surrounds, New Have consideration for the environment; don’t take any- more warm gear, and extra food. Check out the New Zea- Finally, happy walking! Zealand’s position in the path of the ‘Roaring 40s’ and its thing natural, and don’t leave anything unnatural. Carry out land Mountain Safety Council’s Bushcraft Manual for more mountainous terrain combine to produce some of the most all your rubbish and any you find. information. The Mountain Safety Council also has many Above Stone hut ruins and cart, Logantown, Otago Goldfields changeable and unpredictable climate on the planet. Park

14 15 Northland SH1 to Te Paki, Kaitaia Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway Tapotupotu Bay Te Werahi gate Contrary to popular opinion, Cape Reinga is not the northern- huge quantities of sand, deposited by oceanic currents, created most tip of New Zealand’s mainland; that title belongs to the a connection with the mainland. Now, only the islands around Surville Cliffs of North Cape, which lie a full 2 kilometres closer Cape Maria van Diemen remain separated. Pitokuku Pt to the equator. Cape Reinga is also of immense importance to Maori, who Despite this geographic shortcoming, Cape Reinga is a know it as Te Rerenga Wairua. Here, according to legend, the Cape Reinga Cape Reinga Walk place of surreal beauty. Between five and two million years spirits of the deceased at last depart Aotearoa to begin the long Herangi Hill Maungatiketike ago, the area consisted of islands, but in the last million years journey back to the ancestral homeland of Hawaiiki-A-Nui. Cape Pt While most of the 200,000 people who visit the cape are Reinga content to wander the short sealed path to the lighthouse and gaze over the often-turbulent waters at the meeting of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean, walkers will find a rewarding walkway loop track to Cape Maria van Diemen and Twilight Beach. The walkway crosses some of New Zealand’s most distinctive coastal scenery. Cape Maria van Diemen Cape Reinga to Cape Maria van Diemen turnoff 2–2.5 hours Branching off the path to the lighthouse, a well-benched

N Motuopao Is. track descends for 30 minutes beside coastal cliffs, down to the long sweep of Te Werahi Beach. After following the coast southwards for 45–60 minutes, the track crosses Te inland through a vast area of dunes, with some curiously Werahi Stream (sometimes impassable after mid-tide) be- charred and eroding rock exposed in places. Here large or- Grade Medium–Hard fore heading inland up grassy slopes to colourful dunes ange squares atop tall poles indicate the route at intervals. Map M02 North Cape beyond, dominated by the native sand plants pingao and A short section of dense lupins leads to a sidle through Total Walking Time 6–7 hours return (including 90 minute spinifex. A gentle climb leads over the flanks of Herangi Hill twisted manuka forest and out into the open again be- side trip to Cape Maria van Diemen) (159 m) to a signposted track junction which offers fine side an extensive wetland in the Te Werahi Valley. The track Access From Kaitaia take SH 1 north as far as it goes. Allow views of Cape Maria van Diemen and its offshore islands. crosses a narrow neck of the raupo-dominated wetland on 90 minutes to drive the 112 km from Kaitaia, which is sealed On a good day the side track leading to the cape proves a boardwalk to a final manuka stand before reaching farm- except for the last 20 km. The cape has a carpark, toilets and rewarding (90 minutes return). land. Across a stile, poles lead up grassy slopes to a farm information panels. Plans to develop a visitor centre and ridge, which is followed to Te Werahi Gate on the Cape Re- seal the remaining section of road are afoot. Cape Maria van Diemen turnoff to Twilight Beach inga Road. Most walkers will choose to walk – or hitchhike Alternative route For those who don’t want to complete and Cape Reinga Road 3–4 hours – the 4.5 kilometres of road back to the cape (the shortest the entire circuit described above, an equally rewarding op- From the track junction, the main walkway enters coastal option), but there is the choice of using a track that recon- tion is the trip from Cape Reinga to Cape Maria van Diemen shrublands, dominated by prostrate manuka, traversing a nects with the walkway back at Te Werahi Beach. and return. East of Cape Reinga a pleasant walk leads to Ta- broad ledge above the cliffs of Maungatiketike and Pitokuku potupotu Bay and a carpark and campsite there (allow 90 points before descending through lupins towards Twilight minutes each way). Beach. From a signposted track junction, the 5 minute walk Opposite Sand dunes and rock with Cape Maria van Diemen Information DOC Kaitaia Tel: 09-408-6014 to Twilight Beach is worthwhile. Back at the junction head beyond

16 17 WHANGAREI Bream Head Scenic Reserve, Whangarei Te Whara Track Parua Bay

At the head of Whangarei Harbour several peaks rise mono- Ocean Beach to Bream Head and Peach Cove Track lithically, their sheerness and close proximity to the sea lending Junction 2.5–3 hours them a stature that belies their modest heights. At 475 metres Follow the white sands of Ocean Beach southwards for Whangarei Bream Head–Te Whara is the highest of these, the eroded stump 5 minutes before picking up a track that climbs up onto Harbour Manaia of a volcano that formed 20 million years ago; Manaia and Mt grassy slopes. Views of the Bream Islands and the more Lion are the other two prominent peaks. distant Poor Knights Islands soon unfold. After about Botanically, Bream Head is of national importance, con- 40 minutes climbing, past a small lighthouse, the track taining Northland’s largest remaining broadleaf–pohutukawa reaches an old World War II naval radar station base built Marsden Whangarei Heads Point forest and some locally endemic species. Like many other areas in 1942. Although little remains of the station buildings, in New Zealand, Bream Head has attracted the attention of lo- the rusting radar is visible, tucked into the nearby bush Urquharts cal conservationists who plan to develop a pest-free haven for with the dramatic rock spire known as the Old Woman Bay Home Pt Te Whara Track, Bream Head such species as kaka, which they hope will begin to breed in beyond. Mt Lion the reserve. The track enters forest and continues to climb until Ocean Beach Of the many walks available in the area, the Te Whara reaching the ridge crest near Bream Head. A side track leads Smugglers Track is the most challenging, and follows the route of an his- up to a viewpoint on the head (475 m), but it will tempt only Busby Bay radar station toric Ngatiwai trail. It links Ocean Beach with Urquharts Bay, the more agile walkers who have a good head for heights. Head Te Whara traversing en route the summits of Bream Head and Mt Lion, On a good day walkers can see as far south as Cape Rodney Peach with a side trip to Peach Cove possible too. Walkers can expect and as far north as Cape Brett. Cove some steep and slippery terrain, on a well-marked but un- Further along the ridge is another large rock outcrop formed tramping track. However, the rewards are outstanding known appropriately as the Black Thumb, which is some- N Bream views, superb sandy beaches and much of historic interest too. times tackled by rock climbers. A descent through the lush Head Carry plenty of drinking water. forest leads down to open forest with a grassy clearing, where a track branches off to Ocean Beach Road. About 10 minutes further on is the Peach Cove Track junction. Peach Cove Track to Urquharts Bay 2.5–3 hours descent towards Urquharts Bay, with a good glimpse of Back on the ridge, the main Te Whara track begins an Smugglers Bay through the trees at one point. The track Side Track to Peach Cove Hut (8 bunks, $10/night, undulating climb towards Mt Lion, passing more rock intercepts the Smugglers Bay Track just past where it locked) 40–60 minutes return pinnacles en route. The vegetation restricts the views opens out onto farmland. Head right for 10 minutes to A steep descent through coastal forest leads down slopes from Mt Lion (395 m). Beyond, the track begins a steepish reach Urquharts Bay. to Peach Cove, a small sandy bay set in a bouldery coastline and overhung by pohutukawa. Peach Cove Hut, renovated Grade Medium–Hard Track ends at Urquharts Bay, 5 km away from Ocean Beach by by DOC in 2002, is set back in the bush, near an astonishing Total Walking Time 5–6 hours through trip; add 40–60 road. pohutukawa growing atop a gigantic boulder. To stay in the minutes for side trip to Peach Cove Alternative route Several excellent shorter walks are possi- hut, which is locked, you must book through DOC. Map Q07 Whangarei ble: Peach Cove Track (2 hours return from Ocean Beach Road), Access From Whangarei take Riverside Drive, Whangarei Heads Busby Head and Smugglers Bay Track (1–1.5 hour round trip), Road and Ocean Beach Road to reach a DOC carpark at Ocean Peach Cove–Bream Head–Ocean Beach loop (3–3.5 hours). Beach, which has toilets and an information panel. Allow about Information DOC Whangarei Tel: 09-430-2133, Bream Head Manaia, Bream Head and Mt Lion at dusk from the Whangarei 40 minutes to drive the 30 km from Whangarei. The Te Whara Conservation Trust: www.breamheadtrust.org.nz Heads Road

18 19 Westport Charming Creek Walkway • Denniston Walkway

Charming Creek Walkway The Charming Creek Walkway could be a contender for New Zealand’s best walkway, although such judgements are always subjective. Certainly the track offers an impressive amount of interest to walkers: a fascinating history which comes alive through the multitude of relics left in situ, diverse and often magnificent scenery and geology, distinctive flora and fauna – and all this on a gradient that does not exceed 1 in 7. Charming Ck During the early 1900s, two sawmilling brothers from Seddonville Coal Mine Coalbrookdale Granity, Bob and George Watson, came up with an audacious Mine Burnett’s Face plan to exploit the timber and coal reserves in the upper Charming Creek Walkway Mangatini Falls Stockton Watson’s Mill Ngakawau Valley by building a railway down the fearsome Irishmans Tunnel Denniston

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boulders. Against all odds, the Watson brothers succeeded. The n Granity Denniston Walkway e railway ran from 1912 until 1958, when road access through D Seddonville made the line redundant. It is along this largely intact railway line that the Charming Creek Walkway passes; through the gorge, past the tumult- uous cascade of the Mangatini Falls, and up into Charming Tasman Sea Waimangaroa

Creek – a tributary that is the Mr Hyde to Ngakawau’s Dr SH67 to N Westport Jekyll. Aptly-named Charming Creek meanders in an unhur- ried manner, and the silver pine–rimu–beech–manuka forest dominating here contrasts strongly with the dripping, confined area where a siding joined the main Charming Creek rail- the track passes under dripping overhangs overlooking the rainforest of the Ngakawau. way. From here much of the coal was sent by rail to West- confluence of the Ngakawau River and Charming Creek. Although there are several places where parents will have port and shipped to Wellington. Watson’s Mill site is a short distance up Charming Creek, to watch their children, the walkway is suitable for families Beyond, the valley narrows, and the Ngakawau River where there is a shelter and a toilet. (but is probably too long for young children if walked both soon begins to thunder. The railway and sleepers remain ways). largely intact, passing through the kinked Irishmans Watson’s Mill to Charming Creek Coal Mine 1 hour Walkers should note that mountain bikes are permitted Tunnel, and largely hugging the bank with good views 45 minutes on the track except during the period from 25 December to 25 over the river. An endemic daisy Celmisia morganii grows In the much more open valley of Charming Creek the ter- January and at Easter. here. rain has a completely different atmosphere. The rail lines are Just before Mangatini Falls, the track crosses a substan- largely gone from this section, although sleepers remain in Ngakawau to Watson’s Mill 1 hour 15 minutes tial footbridge with sublime views. A second tunnel, nick- many sections. Listen out for fernbirds and robins, which From the carpark, the track heads up the valley, following named The Verandah, has a wooden boardwalk and rail to are common, and the occasional kakariki. Giant land snails Railway line and the Verandah tunnel, Charming Creek Walkway the railway lines for 10 minutes until reaching The Bins, an aid the walker’s passage in the ink-black centre. Beyond, of the Powelliphanta genus may be observed too.

122 123 Denniston Walkway and there are three coal trucks in superb condition, as well Set high on a largely treeless, often foggy and frequently as a reconstructed section of rail tracks. A 3 minute track windswept plateau on the northern West Coast, Denniston leads down to a viewpoint over the incline. was an unlikely place for up to 1500 people to live. Nearby are crumbling concrete structures, an old shed But for several decades Denniston was the most import- now serving as an excellent information shelter, and some ant coal mine in New Zealand, producing around 13 million large winch wheels. Follow the road up past a restored aer- tonnes of coal during its 88 year history. ial cableway to the main site of the town, or explore several Coal trucks were sent down an incline with a 500 metre tracks that begin from the Brakehead. vertical drop – the steepest in the world – that was constructed in 1878–79 to exploit the enormous coal measure of the Grade Medium plateau. Ingeniously, gravity powered the operation, with the Map K29 Westport weighty coal-filled trucks providing ample momentum to pull Total Walking Time 5 hours up empty returning trucks. Access From Westport, drive north on SH 67 for 15 km to In recent years Denniston has enjoyed something of a Waimangaroa. The signposted Denniston Walkway starts revival in popularity, thanks to the enormously successful from a small carpark on Conns Creek Road, 1.4 km from the historical novels, Denniston Rose and Heart of Coal by highway. author Jenny Pattrick. Most visitors come by road, but there is a Alternative route Provided transport can be arranged to good walking track to the abandoned town: the Denniston Denniston, walkers could simply follow the walkway down Walkway, which starts at Waimangaroa, north of Westport. to the Conns Creek carpark (2 hours). At Denniston a whole There is something honest and respectful about approach- range of walks are possible: Brakehead Walk (40 minutes re- ing the town in the same manner as a whole generation of turn), Town Walks (40 minutes return), Coalbrookdale Walk miners and their families – on foot. At first people rode the coal (2 hours each way). trucks up and down the incline, but four deaths prompted the Information DOC Westport Tel: 03-788-8009 construction of the bridle track in 1884. It is a decent 540 metre climb over about 5 kilometres of good benched track, with a side trail to a section of the slowly disintegrating incline, dis- used since 1967. Moderate fitness is required. The track crosses Charming Creek and its tributaries Grade Easy several times on wooden bridges, reaching the Mumm’s Conns Creek Road to Denniston 3 hours Map L28 Mohikinui Mill site a further 75 minutes from Watson’s Mill. The track begins to climb immediately, passing through Total Walking Time 3 hours each way Here a shed houses an intact restored steam trac- regenerating forest, with the occasional viewpoint of the Access From Westport drive for 30 km on SH 67 to the distant incline. After about 30 minutes, a side track exits to tor and coal shuttle, with a boiler in another shed nearby. township of Ngakawau. The track starts on a signposted From Mumm’s, the track deviates from the old railway line side road near the Solid Energy coal processing plant. The the Denniston Road at the One Mile Log carpark. The main for a significant distance, bypassing a closed tunnel and an far end of the walkway ends at Charming Creek Road, 10 km track continues to climb, now in mature forest dominated old coal-blackened settling pond, to end at the Charming of gravel road southwest of Seddonville. by kamahi and other hardwoods. A few insubstantial creeks Creek coal mine. Concrete building sides, an old tin shed Alternative route Walkers wanting a shorter option could are crossed, with a bridge over Conns Creek. After about and a large amount of rusting machinery mark the site, with walk as far as the Mangatini Falls or Watson’s Mill and return. 2–2.5 hours, a worthwhile side trail branches off steeply a nearby wooden bridge completing the track at the end of Information DOC Westport Tel: 03-788-8009 down to the incline. This 20 minute return track ends at a the Charming Creek Road. fenced-off viewpoint of a reasonably intact section of the incline. Above Mangatini Falls, Ngakawau Gorge, Charming Creek Beyond here the main track begins a series of zigzags Walkway. Opposite Restored section of brakehead, Denniston and finally emerges at Denniston at an area known as the Incline Brakehead. DOC have undertaken restoration work here,

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