Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 659 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. all, thanks to Meg, Ione and Remy for holding OUR READERS the fort while I was away. Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful Brett Atkinson hints, useful advice and interesting Thanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and informa- anecdotes: tion centre staff who patiently answered all my Sain Alizada, Ian Baker, Sal Bolton, Iain Cook, questions. Cheers to the innovative chefs and Erin Crampton, Alkistis Danilatou, Gary inspired craft brewers of New Zealand for sus- Dickman, Hans Elander, Jack & Deidre Evans, tenance on the road, and to Carol for support Nadine Haas, Rüdiger Heß, Jinghan Di, Shona on occasional beach, island, capital city and Leisk, Jeroen Loopstra, Kathy Manville, Kelly Hobbit-inspired getaways. Thanks to my fellow McFaden, Thomas Michel, Yu Morikawa, authors, the wittiest crew one could aspire Chuck Perso, Phillip Roullard, Olivia Rowland, to work with, and my appreciation to Tasmin Gary Salloum, Kerstin Stiegler, Lukas Toma, Waby at Lonely Planet for the opportunity to Jean Tuck, Lisa Wilkie again explore my Kiwi backyard. Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater AUTHOR THANKS Thanks to everyone who helped us on the road, including tourism organisations, DOC and vis- Charles Rawlings-Way itor centre staff, business operators and trav- Thanks to the many generous, knowledge- ellers. Thanks also to friends and family who able and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on provided a park for the campervan, a fridge for the road, especially the staff at the Hastings, the flagon, and company on vital research mis- Whanganui and New Plymouth i-SITEs who sions. Finally, thanks to our fellow NZ authors flew through my questions with the greatest of for the camaraderie, as always, and Tasmin ease. Huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for signing Waby for leading the team. me up, and the in-house LP content deities who electrified this CMS Frankenstein. Humongous Peter Dragicevich gratitude to my tireless, witty and professional I owe a great deal of thanks to Hamish, Jill and co-authors – Lee, Sarah, Peter and Brett − who John Blennerhassett in Wanaka, Scott and always bring the humour and the class. Most of Sophie Kennedy in Queenstown, Michael 660 Wilson in Invercargill, and Joanne and Phil Cole on Waiheke Island. Special thanks to ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Michael Woodhouse for his comradeship on Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated the road in Otago. And to all of my Auckland World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate friends and family who enthusiastically Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System supped and gorged with me in the city’s bars Sciences, 11, 1633–44. BEHIND THE SCENES and restaurants, good work! Cover photograph: Crater Lake, Mt Rua- pehu, Tongariro National Park, North Island, Danita Delimont Stock / AWL © Destination Editor Assisting Cartographers THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Hunor Csutoros, Corey This 18th edition of Lonely Product Editors Hutchison, Rachel Imeson Planet’s New Zealand guide- Elizabeth Jones, Tracy Cover Researcher book was researched and writ- Whitmey Naomi Parker ten by Charles Rawlings-Way, Senior Cartographer Thanks to Anita Banh, Brett Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Diana Von Holdt Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Peter Dragicevich and Lee Book Designer Daniel Corbett, Ryan Evans, Slater. The 17th and 16th Michael Buick Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, editions were researched by Assisting Editors Karyn Noble, Darren O’Con- the same writers. This guide- Imogen Bannister, Michelle nell, Mazzy Prinsep, Kirsten book was produced by the Bennett, Nigel Chin, Gabrielle Rawlings, Diana Saengkham, following: Innes, Jodie Martire, Kristin Dianne Schallmeiner, Eleanor Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Simpson, Angela Tinson, Anna Saralinda Turner Tyler, Dora Whitaker ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 661 Index 309 Road 203-4 children, travel with 81 Cathedral Cove 208 Miranda 197 climate 62, 643 Colquhouns Beach 567 Okarito Lagoon 446 drinking & nightlife 92-5 Frasers Beach 587 Thames 198 A Abel Tasman National Park entertainment 95-6 Great Barrier Island 109 Waikanae 376 14, 414-18, 415, 15 festivals & events 22, Hahei Beach 208 Blackball 440 78-9, 81 Acacia Bay 256 Hawke’s Bay 349 Blenheim 393-8 food 62, 86-92 accommodation 640-2, see Hot Water Beach 209 Bluff 594 also individual locations highlights 64 Kai Iwi Beach 234 boat travel 653, 654, activities, see individual history 63 Kaikoura 398 see also canoeing & activities information 97-8 Karekare 26, 114 kayaking Ahipara 158-9 itineraries 63 Karikari Peninsula 155 books 608, 616, 621 air travel 652, 653-4 shopping 96-7 Mangawhai 126 Bream Bay 128-9 breweries Akaroa 19, 480-4, 482, 19 sights 63-75 Matakana 120 albatrosses 528-9 tours 77-8 Mount Beach 304 Auckland 95 Alexandra 534-6 travel seasons 62 Napier 340 Carterton 381 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail 501 travel to/from 98-9 New Chum’s Beach 204 Christchurch 474-5 Anaura Bay 323 travel within 99-100 Ngarunui Beach 179 Gisborne 22, 327 Anchor Bay 120 walking tours 78, 80, 80 Ocean Beach (Kawhia) Greymouth 438 animals 621-5, see also Auckland Pride Festival 79 185 Hamilton 174 individual animals Awakino 192-3 Ocean Beach (Raglan) 179 Hawke’s Bay 348 Anzac Bay 212 Oreti Beach 590 Invercargill 590 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Orewa 118 Mapua 410 Park 503-7, , B Martinborough 377 504-5 5 bank accounts 646-7 Otama Beach 204 Arahaki Lagoon 295 Motueka 411 Banks Peninsula 19, 478-84, Pacific Coast Hwy 322 Nelson 403, 405 Aramoana Hill 239 479 Scotts Beach 433 Arawhata Bridge 456 Barrytown 437 Shipwreck Bay 158 Nelson Region 408 area codes 21, 649 bathrooms 649 Tahuna Beach 403 Palmerston North 246 Aroha Island 148 Bay of Islands 10, 57, 123, Timaru 494 Paraparaumu 375 Arrowtown 562-6, 563 136-51, 124-5, 137, 11 Waiheke Island 102 Riverhead 116 art galleries, see museums accommodation 123 Waihi Beach 212 Taupo 261-2 & galleries climate 123 Wharariki Beach 26, 421 Urenui 225 Arthur’s Pass 489-90 food 123 beer 25, 53, 362, see Waiheke Island 102 Arthur’s Pass National highlights 124 also breweries Waipara Valley 487-8 Park 489 Māori culture 281 bicycle travel, see cycling Wanaka 566 arts 628-33, 634-8, see bird parks, see also zoos & Wellington 370 also individual arts travel seasons 123 wildlife reserves Whenuakite 207 Atene 239 Bay of Plenty 58, 278, 298- 318, 280 Katikati Bird Gardens 309 budget 21 ATMs 646 accommodation 278 Otorohanga Kiwi House & Buller Gorge 427-8 Auckland 9, 63-100, 64, Native Bird Park 187 climate 278 Buller Region 427-35 66, 70-1, 74, 76, 79, 82, Wingspan National Bird of food 278 bungy jumping 48 85, 2, 9 Prey Centre 283 highlights 280 Auckland 77 accommodation 62, 81-6 birds 623, see also Queenstown 543-5 activities 75-7 travel seasons 278 individual birds Rotorua 283 Baylys Beach 163-4 birdwatching Taupo 256-7 B&Bs 640 Farewell Spit 421 beaches 26 Buried Village 297 Map Pages 000 Kaikoura 399 Auckland 77 bus travel 654-6 Photo Pages 000 Kotuku Sanctuary 446 Cape Reinga 156 business hours 647 662 C cathedrals, see churches & St Faith’s Anglican Hawke’s Bay 341 Cable Bay 153 cathedrals Church 281 Mangawhai 127 Cambridge 181-3 Catlins, the 595-9, 596 St Mary’s Church 68-9 Mapua 410 campervans 656 caves St Patrick’s Basilica 514 Martinborough 377 camping 329, 641 Abbey Caves 129-30 St Patrick’s Cathedral 66 Nelson 405 canoeing & kayaking 50, 51 Aranui Cave 188 St Paul’s Church 143-4 New Zealand Cycle Trail 50 INDEX Abel Tasman National Cathedral Caves 597 St Peter’s Anglican Nga Haerenga, New Park 416 Crazy Paving & Box Church 481 Zealand Cycle Trail Auckland 75, 77 Canyon Caves 434 Taranaki Cathedral 50, 341 Harwoods Hole 418 Church of St Mary 220 Old Goast Road 22, 430-1 C-D Blenheim 393-4 Transitional Cathedral 463 Cambridge 182 Honeycomb Hill Caves & Otago Central Rail Trail Arch 434 cinema 632, 635, see also 536 Franz Josef Glacier 450 Kawiti Glowworm Caves films Pou Herenga Tai Twin Hahei 208 147 Claris 109 Coast Cycle Trail 138 Havelock 392 Muriwai’s Cave 312 classical music 636-7 Rotorua 288 Kaikoura 399 Ngarua Caves 418 Clay Cliffs Paritea 509 Taupo 255 Marlborough Sounds 388-9 Rawhiti Cave 419 Cleddau Valley 585 Turangi 263 Mountain Valley 340 Ruakuri Cave 188 climate 20, 23-6, 643, see Waiheke Island 103 National Park Village 272-3 Ruatapu Cave 258 also individual regions Wairarapa, the 377 Nelson 405 Te Anau Glowworm Clyde 537 West Coast Wilderness New Plymouth 222 Caves 577 coffee 53 Trail 439 Ohakune 274-5 Waitomo Caves 13, 187-8 Colac Bay 589 Ohope 315-16 cell phones 20, 648 Collingwood 421-2 Okarito