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Behind the Scenes

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all, thanks to Meg, Ione and Remy for holding OUR READERS the fort while I was away. Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful Brett Atkinson hints, useful advice and interesting Thanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and informa- anecdotes: tion centre staff who patiently answered all my Sain Alizada, Ian Baker, Sal Bolton, Iain Cook, questions. Cheers to the innovative chefs and Erin Crampton, Alkistis Danilatou, Gary inspired craft brewers of for sus- Dickman, Hans Elander, Jack & Deidre Evans, tenance on the road, and to Carol for support Nadine Haas, Rüdiger Heß, Jinghan Di, Shona on occasional beach, island, capital city and Leisk, Jeroen Loopstra, Kathy Manville, Kelly Hobbit-inspired getaways. Thanks to my fellow McFaden, Thomas Michel, Yu Morikawa, authors, the wittiest crew one could aspire Chuck Perso, Phillip Roullard, Olivia Rowland, to work with, and my appreciation to Tasmin Gary Salloum, Kerstin Stiegler, Lukas Toma, Waby at Lonely Planet for the opportunity to Jean Tuck, Lisa Wilkie again explore my Kiwi backyard. Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater AUTHOR THANKS Thanks to everyone who helped us on the road, including tourism organisations, DOC and vis- Charles Rawlings-Way itor centre staff, business operators and trav- Thanks to the many generous, knowledge- ellers. Thanks also to friends and family who able and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on provided a park for the campervan, a fridge for the road, especially the staff at the Hastings, the flagon, and company on vital research mis- Whanganui and New Plymouth i-SITEs who sions. Finally, thanks to our fellow NZ authors flew through my questions with the greatest of for the camaraderie, as always, and Tasmin ease. Huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for signing Waby for leading the team. me up, and the in-house LP content deities who electrified this CMS Frankenstein. Humongous Peter Dragicevich gratitude to my tireless, witty and professional I owe a great deal of thanks to Hamish, Jill and co-authors – Lee, Sarah, Peter and Brett − who John Blennerhassett in Wanaka, Scott and always bring the humour and the class. Most of Sophie Kennedy in Queenstown, Michael 660 Wilson in Invercargill, and Joanne and Phil Cole on Waiheke Island. Special thanks to ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Michael Woodhouse for his comradeship on Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated the road in Otago. And to all of my Auckland World Map of the Köppen‑Geiger Climate friends and family who enthusiastically Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System supped and gorged with me in the city’s bars Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND and restaurants, good work! Cover photograph: Crater Lake, Mt Rua­ pehu, Tongariro National Park, , Danita Delimont Stock / AWL ©

Destination Editor Assisting Cartographers THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Hunor Csutoros, Corey This 18th edition of Lonely Product Editors Hutchison, Rachel Imeson Planet’s New Zealand guide- Elizabeth Jones, Tracy Cover Researcher book was researched and writ- Whitmey Naomi Parker ten by Charles Rawlings-Way, Senior Cartographer Thanks to Anita Banh, Brett Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Diana Von Holdt Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Peter Dragicevich and Lee Book Designer Daniel Corbett, Ryan Evans, Slater. The 17th and 16th Michael Buick Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, editions were researched by Assisting Editors Karyn Noble, Darren O’Con- the same writers. This guide- Imogen Bannister, Michelle nell, Mazzy Prinsep, Kirsten book was produced by the Bennett, Nigel Chin, Gabrielle Rawlings, Diana Saengkham, following: Innes, Jodie Martire, Kristin Dianne Schallmeiner, Eleanor Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Simpson, Angela Tinson, Anna Saralinda Turner Tyler, Dora Whitaker ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 661

Index

309 Road 203-4 children, travel with 81 Cathedral Cove 208 Miranda 197 climate 62, 643 Colquhouns Beach 567 Okarito Lagoon 446 drinking & nightlife 92-5 Frasers Beach 587 Thames 198 A Abel National Park entertainment 95-6 Great Barrier Island 109 Waikanae 376 14, 414-18, 415, 15 festivals & events 22, Hahei Beach 208 Blackball 440 78-9, 81 Acacia Bay 256 Hawke’s Bay 349 Blenheim 393-8 food 62, 86-92 accommodation 640-2, see Hot Water Beach 209 Bluff 594 also individual locations highlights 64 Kai Iwi Beach 234 boat travel 653, 654, activities, see individual history 63 Kaikoura 398 see also canoeing & activities information 97-8 Karekare 26, 114 kayaking Ahipara 158-9 itineraries 63 Karikari Peninsula 155 books 608, 616, 621 air travel 652, 653-4 shopping 96-7 Mangawhai 126 Bream Bay 128-9 breweries Akaroa 19, 480-4, 482, 19 sights 63-75 Matakana 120 albatrosses 528-9 tours 77-8 Mount Beach 304 Auckland 95 Alexandra 534-6 travel seasons 62 Napier 340 Carterton 381 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail 501 travel to/from 98-9 New Chum’s Beach 204 Christchurch 474-5 Anaura Bay 323 travel within 99-100 Ngarunui Beach 179 Gisborne 22, 327 Anchor Bay 120 walking tours 78, 80, 80 Ocean Beach (Kawhia) Greymouth 438 animals 621-5, see also Auckland Pride Festival 79 185 Hamilton 174 individual animals Awakino 192-3 Ocean Beach (Raglan) 179 Hawke’s Bay 348 Anzac Bay 212 Oreti Beach 590 Invercargill 590 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Orewa 118 Mapua 410 Park 503-7, , B Martinborough 377 504-5 5 bank accounts 646-7 Otama Beach 204 Arahaki Lagoon 295 411 Banks Peninsula 19, 478-84, Pacific Coast Hwy 322 Nelson 403, 405 Aramoana Hill 239 479 Scotts Beach 433 Arawhata Bridge 456 Barrytown 437 Shipwreck Bay 158 Nelson Region 408 area codes 21, 649 bathrooms 649 Tahuna Beach 403 Palmerston North 246 Aroha Island 148 Bay of Islands 10, 57, 123, Timaru 494 Paraparaumu 375 Arrowtown 562-6, 563 136-51, 124-5, 137, 11 Waiheke Island 102 Riverhead 116 art galleries, see museums accommodation 123 Waihi Beach 212 Taupo 261-2 & galleries climate 123 26, 421 Urenui 225 Arthur’s Pass 489-90 food 123 beer 25, 53, 362, see Waiheke Island 102 Arthur’s Pass National highlights 124 also breweries Waipara Valley 487-8 Park 489 Māori culture 281 bicycle travel, see cycling Wanaka 566 arts 628-33, 634-8, see bird parks, see also zoos & Wellington 370 also individual arts travel seasons 123 wildlife reserves Whenuakite 207 Atene 239 58, 278, 298- 318, 280 Katikati Bird Gardens 309 budget 21 ATMs 646 accommodation 278 Otorohanga Kiwi House & Buller Gorge 427-8 Auckland 9, 63-100, 64, Native Bird Park 187 climate 278 Buller Region 427-35 66, 70-1, 74, 76, 79, 82, Wingspan National Bird of food 278 bungy jumping 48 85, 2, 9 Prey Centre 283 highlights 280 Auckland 77 accommodation 62, 81-6 birds 623, see also Queenstown 543-5 activities 75-7 travel seasons 278 individual birds Rotorua 283 Baylys Beach 163-4 birdwatching Taupo 256-7 B&Bs 640 421 beaches 26 Buried Village 297 Map Pages 000 Kaikoura 399 Auckland 77 bus travel 654-6 Photo Pages 000 Kotuku Sanctuary 446 Cape Reinga 156 business hours 647 662 C cathedrals, see churches & St Faith’s Anglican Hawke’s Bay 341 Cable Bay 153 cathedrals Church 281 Mangawhai 127 Cambridge 181-3 Catlins, the 595-9, 596 St Mary’s Church 68-9 Mapua 410 campervans 656 caves St Patrick’s Basilica 514 Martinborough 377 camping 329, 641 Abbey Caves 129-30 St Patrick’s Cathedral 66 Nelson 405 canoeing & kayaking 50, 51 Aranui Cave 188 St Paul’s Church 143-4 New Zealand Cycle Trail 50 INDEX INDEX Abel Tasman National Cathedral Caves 597 St Peter’s Anglican Nga Haerenga, New Park 416 Crazy Paving & Box Church 481 Zealand Cycle Trail Auckland 75, 77 Canyon Caves 434 Cathedral 50, 341 418 Church of St Mary 220 Old Goast Road 22, 430-1 C-D Blenheim 393-4  Transitional Cathedral 463 Cambridge 182 Honeycomb Hill Caves & Otago Central Rail Trail Arch 434 cinema 632, 635, see also 536  Franz Josef Glacier 450 Kawiti Glowworm Caves films Pou Herenga Tai Twin Hahei 208 147 Claris 109 Coast Cycle Trail 138 Havelock 392 Muriwai’s Cave 312 classical music 636-7 Rotorua 288 Kaikoura 399 Ngarua Caves 418 Clay Cliffs Paritea 509 Taupo 255 Marlborough Sounds 388-9 419 Cleddau Valley 585 Turangi 263 Mountain Valley 340 Ruakuri Cave 188 climate 20, 23-6, 643, see Waiheke Island 103 National Park Village 272-3 Ruatapu Cave 258 also individual regions Wairarapa, the 377 Nelson 405 Glowworm Clyde 537 West Coast Wilderness New Plymouth 222 Caves 577 coffee 53 Trail 439 Ohakune 274-5 Waitomo Caves 13, 187-8 Colac Bay 589 Ohope 315-16 cell phones 20, 648 Collingwood 421-2 Okarito 446 D Central Plateau 58 Colville 203 dance 632 Paihia 144 Centre of NZ 405 consulates 643-4 dance music 638 Puhoi 119 Charleston 435-6 Cook, Captain James 612 dangers 658, see also Punakaiki 436 children, travel with 55-6 Coopers Beach 153 safety Raglan 176 Auckland 81 Coroglen 207 Dargaville 164-5 Rotorua 287 Christchurch 468 Coromandel Forest Park 201 Days Bay 366 Taupo 256 Queenstown 548 Coromandel Peninsula 57, debit cards 647 Tauranga 300 Wellington 363 166, 195-215, 168, 196 disabilities, travellers with Tauranga Bay 152 Christchurch 59, 457, 460- accommodation 166 649-50 Urupukapuka Island 147 77, 461, 464-5 climate 166 discount cards 643 Waiheke Island 103 accommodation 470-2 food 166 diving 50 Wellington 358 activities 467-8 highlights 168 Auckland 77 Whanganui National children, travel with 468 history 195 Bay of Islands 136 Park 241 climate 457, 643 Māori culture 169 Goat Island Marine Whangarei 131 courses 468 travel seasons 166 Reserve 121-2 Canterbury 59, 457, 460, drinking & nightlife 474-5 Coromandel Town 200-2 Great Barrier Island 109 458-9 earthquakes 462 Craters of the Moon 254 Kerikeri 149 accommodation 457 entertainment 475 crayfish 399 Milford Sound 585 climate 457 festivals & events 470 credit cards 647 Paihia 145 food 457 food 457, 472-4 Cromwell 538-9 Picton 385 highlights 458-9 highlights 458 Cullen Point Lookout 392 Tairua 210 Māori culture 469 history 460 culture 608-9, 626-33 Tauranga 300 travel seasons 457 information 475-6 Curio Bay 595-6 Tutukaka Coast 134 travel to/from 460 itineraries 467 curling 533 Whakatane 312-13 canyoning 114, 198 Māori culture 469 currency 647 dolphins 481, 595, 623, 11 Cape Kidnappers 349 medical services 475 customs regulations 642-3 swimming with 136, 300, Cape Palliser 378 shopping 475 cycling 49, 654, see 312-13, 399 Cape Reinga 155-7 sights 460, 462-3, 466-7 also mountain biking Doneraille Park 331 Caples Track 561, 560 tours 469-70 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Doubtful Sound 587-8 car travel 656-8 travel seasons 457 Trail 501 Doubtless Bay 153-4 Cardrona 572-3 travel to/from 460, 476 Banks Peninsula 479 drinking & nightlife 25, Carterton 380-1 travel within 476-7 Bay of Islands 138 53, see also individual locations carving 629, 631 churches & cathedrals Cambridge 182 drinks, see beer, wine Castlepoint 380 Christ Church Cathedral Christchurch 468 403 Gisborne 329 driving, see car travel Map Pages 000 Holy Trinity Cathedral Great Taste Trail 409 Dunedin 60, 518-27, 520 Photo Pages 000 68-9 Hauraki Rail Trail 197 accommodation 508, 522-3 663 activities 521-2 Festival of Lights 23, 222 Mountain Valley 340 hang gliding 48-9 drinking & nightlife Fringe NZ 23-4, 361 Rotorua 288 Nelson 405 525-6 Kaikoura Seafest 26 Taupo 258-9 hangi 287 entertainment 526 Marlborough Wine & Tauranga 300 Hanmer Springs 484-7, 485 food 508, 523-5 Food Festival 23, 394 Turangi 263 Hari Hari 445 information 526-7 Matariki 25, 362 Whangamata 211 Hastings 344-9, 345

Māori culture 511 National Jazz Festival flag debate 609 Hauraki Gulf 9, 100-13 INDEX shopping 526 24, 300 Fletcher Bay 203 Havelock 392-3 sights 518-19, 521 Nelson Arts Festival food 25, 52-4, see also Hawera 232-3 26, 406 -travel to/from 527 individual locations Hawke’s Bay 335-50, 336  D New Zealand Festival travel within 527 Forgotten World Hwy 229  H 23, 361 health 644-5 Duntroon 512 Fort Taiaroa 528-9 New Zealand Gold Guitar 16, 422, 16 D’Urville Island 388 Awards 25 Fox Glacier 451-4, 452, 33 Hector 430 DVDs 645 New Zealand Foxton 249 Helena Bay 135 International Comedy Franz Josef Glacier 447-51, Helensville 116-17 Festival 25, 81, 361 448, 12 helihiking 449, 453, 505 E French Pass 388 earthquakes 462, 621 New Zealand heliskiing 44, 505 International Film Frying Pan Lake 295 Hells Gate 295 East Cape 322-35 Festival 25, 81, 362 Hicks Bay 323 East Coast 58, 319-50, NZ Tattoo & Art Festival 320-1 26, 222 G hiking, see Great Walks, tramping, walks accommodation 319 Oamaru Victorian galleries, see museums & climate 319 Heritage Week 26 galleries Hillary, Sir Edmund 503 highlights 320-1 Pasifika Festival 24, 79 gannets 116, 349 Hillary Trail 113-14 Māori culture 325 Queenstown Winter gay travellers 644 hip-hop 637 travel seasons 319 Festival 25 Auckland 79, 93 Hiruharama 239 economy 608-9 Rhythm & Vines 26, 329 Gemstone Bay 208 history 23, 610-19 electricity 643 Russell Birdman 25, 139 geography 620-1 20th century 617-19 Ellery Lake 456 Splore 24, 79 geology 620-1 connections to Britain embassies 643-4 Taranaki International Geraldine 496-8 617-18 emergencies 21 Arts Festival 25, 222 geysers 621 European settlement 611-14 environmental issues 622, Te Matatini National Gibbston Valley 550 Land Wars 614-16 624-5 Kapa Haka Festival 24 Gisborne 325-31, 326 Māori settlement 610-11 etiquette 630 Toast Martinborough glaciers 447 26, 378 hitching 658 events, see festivals & Glenorchy 559-62 Waitangi Day 23, 145 Hobbit, The 183, 192 events glowworms 188, 443, Wellington Sevens Hokianga 159-62 exchange rates 21 577, 13 23, 361 extreme sports 23, 48-51, Golden Bay 418-22 Hokitika 441-5, 442 Wildfoods Festival 24, see also individual golf 259, 288 Hokitika Gorge 442-3 sports 444 holidays 647-8 WOMAD 24, 222 Gore 592 Granity 430 Hollyford Track 582-3 World Buskers Hollyford Valley 584 F Festival 23 Great Barrier Island 109- Homer Tunnel 585 Fairlie 498 World of WearableArt 13, 110 Farewell Spit 421 Awards Show 26, Great Coast Road 435-7 Hone Heke 143 festivals & events 23-6, 362, 406 Great Taste Trail 409 Horeke 160 see also individual film locations 183, 192, Great Walks 38-40, 243, Horopito 272 locations 369, 418 38, see also tramping, horse racing 79 Art Deco Weekend films 608 walks horse riding 24, 340 Finn, Neil & Tim 180, 637 Greenstone Track 561, 560 Ahipara 158 Artists Open Studios 60, 575, 577-88, Greymouth 437-40, 438 Aoraki/Mt Cook National & Festival of Glass 576 Greymouth Region 437-41 Park 506 26, 235 accommodation 575 Greytown 380 Bay of Islands 137 Auckland City Limits 22, climate 575 Baylys Beach 164 24, 79 food 575 Blenheim 394 Bay of Islands Jazz & H highlights 576, 577 Cardrona 573 Blues Festival 25-6, Haast 454-5 travel seasons 575 Catlins, the 598 139 Haast Pass Highway 455-6 travel to/from 577 East Cape 323 Beervana 25, 362 Haast Region 454-6 fishing 264 Farewell Spit 421 Bluff Oyster & Food Hahei 207-9 Festival 25 Coromandel Town 200 Franz Josef Glacier 450 haka 631 Clyde Wine & Food Kaikoura 399 Glenorchy 561 Hamilton 169-75, 172 Festival 24 Kawhia 186 Hastings 345-6 664 horse riding continued Queenstown 545 Kumeu 115-16 Makarora 574 Mackenzie Country 499 Rotorua 285 Kurow 512 Maketu 309-10 Marahau 414 Taumarunui 193 Manapouri 587 Mountain Valley 340 Taupo 258 Manawatu Gorge 249 L Nelson 405 Waiatoto River 456 L&P 215 Mangawhai 126-8 Ohakune 274 Westport 431 Lake Brunner 441 Mangonui 153 INDEX INDEX Paekakariki 375 Whanganui National Park Lake Ferry 378 Māori people 15, 23-4, 241-2 159, see also individual Pakiri 122 Lake Hanlon 433 Palmerston North 249 regions Lake Hauroko 588 arts 253, 282, 287 H- Peel Forest 493 K Lake Hawea 573-4 

M culture 626-33, 634, 15  Punakaiki 436 Lake Hayes 564 food 287 Rotorua 288 422-3 Lake Kaniere 442 maps 646 Selwyn District 489 Kai Iwi Lakes 163 Lake Karapiro 182 Mapua 410 Westport 431 Kaikoura 11, 398-402, Lake Mahinapua 445 , marae 630 Whanganui 235 400 33 Lake Manapouri 587 Kaitaia 157-8 East Cape 332 hostels 641-2 Lake Mistletoe 584 413 Kawhia 185-6 hot springs Lake Moeraki 455 Kaka Point 599 Maniaroa 193 Franz Josef Glacier 450 Lake Pukaki 499 Kapiti Coast 373-6 Motuti 159 Hanmer Springs 484 Lake Rotorua 281 Kapiti Island 374 Papatea Bay 322 Kawhia 185 Lake Roxburgh 535 433-5 Te Araroa 323 Lewis Pass 484 Lake Ruataniwha 501 Karangahake Gorge 214-15 Wellington 357 Matamata 184 Lake Tarawera 295 Karekare 114 Whakatane 311-12 Miranda 197 Lake Taupo Region 250, Marahau 414 Morere Springs Scenic Karikari Peninsula 154-5 251-66, 252 marine mammals 623-5 Reserve 331 Katikati 308-9 accommodation 250 markets 25-6, 53 Mt Maunganui 304 kauris 120, 162-3, 165, 204 climate 250 Marlborough Region 59, Taupo 253, 255-6 Kawakawa 147 food 250 382, 383-402, 384 Tekapo Springs 499 Kawau Island 108-9 highlights 252 accommodation 382 Turangi 264 Kaweka J 350 travel seasons 250 climate 382 Waihi 213 Kawhia 185-6 Lake Tekapo 498-500 food 382 Waikite Valley 297 kayaking, see canoeing & Lake Tutira 336 kayaking highlights 384 Waiwera 118 333 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Māori culture 388 hot-air ballooning 170 Lake Wakatipu 542 Park 505-6 travel seasons 382 Hot Water Beach 209, 256 Lake Wilkie 597 Doubtful Sound 588 wineries 396-7, 395 hotels 642 Land Wars 615 Milford Sound 585 Marlborough Sounds 388- Hukutaia Domain 317 language 20 Otago Peninsula 529 90, 389 Larnach Castle 529 Stewart Island 604 Marokopa 191 Lauder 534 I Wanaka 568 Martinborough 377-80 immigration 652 legal matters 646 623 Masterton 380-1 Inglewood 229 Leigh 121-2 Kenepuru Sound 392-3 Matakana 120-1 insurance 645-6 lesbian travellers 644 Kennedy Bay 203 Matakohe 165 internet access 646 Auckland 79, 93 Kepler Track 580-1, 581 Matamata 183-4 internet resources 21 Levin 249 Kerikeri 147-51, 148 Matapouri 134 history 610, 615, 618 Lewis Pass 484-5 Key Summit 584 Matauri Bay 151-2 Invercargill 590-4, LGBTI travellers 644 591 King Country 185-95, 171 Matheson Bay 121 itineraries 31-5 Ligar Bay 420 Kingitanga 186 Matiu-Somes Island 366 literature 632-3, 634, see Kiritehere 191 Mayor Island 308 also books kiteboarding 50, 405 measures 645 J Loch Cameron 501 Jackson Bay 456 kitesurfing 179 medical services 645 Lord of the Rings, The Methven 490-2 jetboating 49-50 kiwifruits 310 183, 635 Middlemarch 532 Bay of Islands 138 kiwis 187, 283, 599, 602, Lorde 638 623 Milford Sound 18, 585-7, Buller Gorge 427 Lyttelton 477-8 18 Hahei 208 Kohukohu 159-60 Milford Track 582, 583 Opotiki 317 Koriniti 239 Mill Bay 153 kotuku 446 M Miranda 195-7 Kowhitirangi 443 Macetown 566 Mirror Lakes 584 Kuaotunu 204 Mackenzie Country 497 622-3 Map Pages 000 Kuirau Park 281 Mahia Peninsula 331 Moana 441 Photo Pages 000 Kumara 441 Maitai Bay 155 mobile phones 20, 648 665 Moeatoa 191 Mt Somers 492 Te Papa 357 Mahurangi Regional Moeraki 517-18 Mt Taranaki (Egmont Te Uru Waitakere Park 119 Viaduct 336 National Park) 226-8, 2 Contemporary Gallery Mangapohue Natural Mokau 192-3, 226 Mt Titiraupenga 194 113 Bridge Scenic Reserve 191 Mokena Geyser 185 Mt Tongariro 267 Torpedo Bay Navy Museum 72 Mimiwhangata Coastal Molesworth Station 486 Mt Tutoko 585 Vintage Car & Machinery Park 135 Murchison 427-8 INDEX money 21, 643, 646-7 Museum 496-7 Morere Springs Scenic Muriwai Beach 116 Moriori people 611 Volcanic Activity Centre Reserve 331 motels 642 museums & galleries 253-4 Mt Aspiring National

-motorcycle travel 656-8 Akaroa Museum 481 Waitomo Caves Park 569  M motorsports 538 Auckland Art Gallery 65 Discovery Centre Mt Taranaki (Egmont  N Motueka 411-13, 412 Auckland Museum 68 188-9 National Park) 226-8 Motuihe Island 101 Bill Richardson Transport Wellington Museum 356 Ngaiotonga Scenic Motuora Island 108 World 22, 590 Weta Cave 356 Reserve 136 Moturiki Island 304 Canterbury Museum 463 World of Wearable Art & Ohinetonga Scenic Reserve 194 Motutapu Island 101 Christchurch Art Gallery Classic Cars Museum 22, 462 406 Omahuta Forest 151 Motuti 159 City Gallery Wellington music 95, 636-8, see also Opouahi Scenic Reserve mountain biking 49, see 353 festivals 336 also cycling E Hayes & Sons 590 MV Rena 306 Otatara Pā Historic Alexandra 535 Edwin Fox Maritime Reserve 339 Gibbston Valley 550 Museum 383, 385 Paparoa National Park Great Barrier Island 109 Fun Ho! National Toy N 436-7 Helensville 116 Museum 229 Napier 336-44, 338 Parry Kauri Park 120 Kaiteriteri 413 Gold Discovery Centre 213 Naseby 533 Piripiri Caves Scenic Mt Te Aroha 184 Govett-Brewster Art National Park Village 272-4 Reserve 191 National Park Village Gallery 220 national parks & reserves Pirongia Forest Park 179 272-3 Hokitika Craft Gallery 443 625, 624, see also zoos Pukeahu National War & wildlife reserves Ohakune 274, 275 Hokitika Glass Studio 443 Memorial Park 22 Old Ghost Road 22 Abel Tasman National Puketi Forest 151 International Antarctic Park 14, 414-18, Opotiki 317 Centre 467 Pureora Forest Park 194 415, 15 Queen Charlotte Track Kauri Museum 165 Rangikapiti Pa Historic Aoraki/Mt Cook National 390 Reserve 153 Len Lye Centre 22, 217 Park 503-7, 504-5 Queenstown 547 Redwoods Whakare- MOTAT (Museum of Aorangi (Haurangi) warewa Forest 283 Rotorua 286 Transport & Forest Park 378 Technology) 73 Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Skyline MTB Gravity Arthur’s Pass National Reserve 143 Park 22, 286 Museum of Waitangi Park 489 22, 143 Ruataniwha Conserva- Takaka Hill 418 Bellbird Bush Scenic tion Park 502 Taupo 255 National Army Museum Reserve 336 277 Sanctuary Mountain Wanaka 568 Boundary Stream Scenic Maungatautari 181 Wellington 358 National Transport & Toy Reserve 336 Museum 566 Scandrett Regional Whanganui National Canaan Downs Scenic Park 119 Park 243 New Zealand Cricket Reserve 418 Museum 356 Shakespear Regional Moutere Hills 409-11 Cave Stream Scenic New Zealand Maritime Park 117 Moutoa Island 239 Reserve 490 Museum 67 Tangoio Falls Scenic Moutuhora (Whale Island) Coromandel Forest New Zealand Rugby Reserve 336 315 Park 201 Museum 244-5 Tawharanui Regional movies, see films Park 120 Omaka Aviation Heritage 577-88 Mt Aspiring National Centre 393 Te Paki Recreation Park 569 Grove Scenic Reserve 419 Quake City 463 Reserve 155-6 Hemi Matenga Memorial Mt Cook (Aoraki) 503-7, 5 National Park Rotorua Museum 279, Park Scenic Reserve Mt Eden 67-8 332-5 281 376 Mt Hikurangi 323 Tongariro National Park Sir Edmund Hillary Hinewai Reserve 478 Mt Hutt 491 Alpine Centre 503 266-70, 14 Kahurangi National Park Trounson Kauri Park 163 Mt John 499 Southland Museum & Art 422-3 Gallery 590 Victoria Forest Park 429 Mt Karioi 179 Kaimai Mamaku Forest Mt Maunganui 304-8, 305 Steampunk HQ 513 Park 300 Waipatiki Scenic Reserve 336 Mt Ngauruhoe 267 Te Ana Māori Rock Art Lake Mahinapua Scenic Mt Pirongia 179 Centre 494 Reserve 445 Waipoua Forest 162 Mt Pureora 194 Te Hikoi Southern Long Bay Regional Wairere Boulders Nature Journey 589 Park 160 Mt Ruapehu 266-7 Park 117 Te Manawa 245 666 national parks & reserves Omahuta Forest 151 Papatowai 597-8 Q continued Omakau 534 paragliding 48-9 Queen Charlotte Track Wenderholm Regional Omapere 161-5 Hastings 346 390-2 Park 118 Omarama 509 Nelson 405 Queenstown 18, 60, 540- Westland Tai Poutini One Tree Hill 73 Otago 511 59, 541, 544, 546, National Park 447-54 Onepoto Bay 323 Queenstown 547 552, 19 Whangamumu Scenic INDEX INDEX Onga Onga 349-50 Wanaka 568 accommodation 540, Reserve 136 551-4 Oparara Basin 434 Paraparaumu 375-6 Whanganui National Park activities 543-5, 547-8 opening hours 647 parasailing 50, 138, 547 238-44 children, travel with 548 N- opera 636-7 Paritutu 220  Whangaruru North Head climate 540, 643 R Scenic Reserve 136 Operiki Pa 239 passports 652  drinking & nightlife Ophir 534 Pauanui 209-10 Wharerata State Forest 556-7 331 Opito 204 Peel Forest 493-4 entertainment 557 Whirinaki Forest Park Opononi 161-5 Pelorus Bridge 393 festivals & events 550-2 295 Opotiki 317-18 Pelorus Sound 392-3 food 540, 554-6 White Pine Bush Scenic Opoutere 211 penguins 513, 515, 528, Reserve 336 highlights 541 Opunake 231-2 529, 595 Nelson 59, 403-9, history 541-2 404 Orakei Korako 258 phonecards 649 Nelson Lakes National Park information 558 Orewa 118 Picton 383-8, 386 423-4 itineraries 545 Oriuwaka Ecological Area Piercy Island (Motukokako) Nelson Region 382, 403- Māori culture 543 295 138 24, 384 shopping 557-8 Orokawa Bay 212 Piha 114-15 accommodation 382 sights 542-3 Otago 17, 60, 508-39, 510 Pinnacles, the 201 climate 382 tours 548-50 accommodation 508 Pio Pio 192-3 food 382 travel seasons 540 climate 508 Pipiriki 239 highlights 384 travel to/from 541, 558 food 508 planning travel seasons 382 travel within 558-9 highlights 510 budgeting 21 New Plymouth 217-25, 221 Māori culture 511 calendar of events 23-6 newspapers 645 travel seasons 508 children 55-6 Ngakawau 430 R travel to/from 509 extreme sports 48-51 Rabbit Island/Moturoa 410 Ngarupupu Point 191 Otago Central Rail Trail food & drink 52 radio 645 Ngawi 378 536, 17 internet resources 21 rafting, see white-water Ngunguru 134 Otago Peninsula 16, itineraries 31-5 rafting Ninety Mile Beach 155-7 528-31, 530-1, 16 New Zealand basics 20-1 Raglan 175-8, 177 Northland 57, 123-65, Otorohanga 186-7 New Zealand’s regions Rainbow Warrior 152 124-5 Owaka 598-9 57-60 Ranana 239 accommodation 123 Owhango 194-5 repeat visitors 22 Ranfurly 532-3 climate 123 skiing & snowboarding Rangatira 374 food 123 43-7, 45 Rangipo Desert 276 highlights 124 P tramping 36-42 Rangiputa 155 Māori culture 128 pa 118 travel seasons 20, 23-6 Rangiriri 167 travel seasons 123 Paaku 210 Pohara 420-1 Rangitoto Island 101 Northland War 143 Pacific Coast Hwy 322-5 politics 608-9 Rapahoe 437 Nugget Point (Tokatā) 599 paddleboarding Poor Knights Islands 134-5 Raukokore 322-3 Nydia Bay 392 Bay of Islands 137 population 609 Raurimu 272 National Park Village 272 Port Chalmers 527-8 Rawene 160-1 Opoutere 211 Port Charles 203 Rawhiti 136 O Raglan 176 Oakura 230-1 postal services 647 Reefton 428-30 Tauranga 300 Oamaru 512-17, 514 Pounawea 598 reggae 637 Wellington 358 Oban 603 Poutu Point 165 religion 628 Paekakariki 375 Ohakune 274-6 public holidays 647-8 rental accommodation 642 Paeroa 215 Ohinemutu 281 public transport 658 responsible travel 40 Paihia 142-7, 144 Ohope 315-16 Puhoi 119 Riverstone 517 Pakiri 122 Okarito 446 Pukearuhe 225 Riverton 589 Palmerston North Okato 231 Puketi Forest 151 244-9, 245 Roaring Bay 599 Puketui Valley 210-11 Pancake Rocks 436 rock climbing 49 Punakaiki 436-7 Papamoa 308 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Pureora Forest Park 194 Park 503, 505 Map Pages 000 Paparoa National Park 436-7 Hamilton 170 Photo Pages 000 Papatea Bay 322 Mt Maunganui 304 667 Oamaru 515 Whitianga 205 Selwyn District 488 New Plymouth 220-1 Ohakune 275 Sanctuary Mountain 45, 573 Ngarunui Beach 179 Queenstown 543 Maungatautari 181 Taranaki 44 Oakura 230 Raglan 175 sandboarding 161 47, 488 Ohope 316 Rotorua 286 Sandy Bay 134 Tongariro National Park Opunake 231 Te Awamutu 180 scenic flights 44, 270 Raglan 176, 179

Turangi 264 Bay of Islands 139 44, 547 Tutukaka Coast 135 INDEX Wanaka 568 Fox Glacier 453 44, 270 Whale Bay 179 rock music 637 Franz Josef Glacier 44, 270 Whangamata 211 449-50 -Ross 445 Wanaka 44-5 Surville Cliffs 156  R

Rotokura Ecological Golden Bay 419 Whakapapa 44, 270  T Reserve 275 Hokitika 443 skydiving 49 Rotoroa Island 107-8 Kaikoura 400-1 Fox Glacier 453 T Motueka 411 ta moko (Maori tattooing) Rotorua 13, 58, 278, 279- Franz Josef Glacier 629 94, 280, 284, 296, 12 Mt Taranaki (Egmont 449-50 Taihape 277 accommodation 278, National Park) 228 Glenorchy 561 Taipa 153 289-91 Rotorua 288 Methven 491 Tairua 209-10 activities 283 Taupo 259 Motueka 411 takahe 623 climate 278 Tauranga 300 Queenstown 547 Takaka 418-20 drinking & nightlife Tongariro National Taupo 256, 258 Takaka Hill 418 292-3 Park 270 Tauranga 300 Tapu 200 entertainment 293 Whakaari (White Island) Wanaka 568 315 Tarakohe Harbour 420 food 278, 291-2 Whangarei 131 Whataroa 446 Taranaki 58, 216-49, highlights 280 Snell, Peter 231 information 293-4 scuba diving, see diving 218-19 snowboarding, see skiing & accommodation 216 itineraries 282 sea kayaking 481 snowboarding climate 216 Māori culture 281 seals 378, 399, 528 Queenstown 547-8 food 216 shopping 293 Seddonville 430 Southern Scenic Route 589 highlights 218 sights 279-83 Selwyn District 488-9 Southland 60, 575, 588- Māori culture 226 tours 288-9 Shannon 249 606, 576 travel seasons 216 travel seasons 278 Ship Creek 455 accommodation 575 Tasman, Abel 613 travel to/from 294 skiing & snowboarding 17, climate 575 43-7, Tasman Glacier 507 travel within 294 45 food 575 Awakino 47, 512 Tasman Lake 507 Routeburn Track 559-61, highlights 576, 577 Broken River 47, 488 560, 24 travel seasons 575 420 Roxburgh 535 Canterbury 45, 47 travel to/from 577 Taumarunui 193-4 Ruahine Ranges 350 Cardrona 44-5, 573, 46 sports, see individual Taumatawhakatangihang- akoauauotamateaturi- Ruapehu Region 250, Cheeseman 47, 488 sports pukakapikimaungahoro- 266-77, 44, 547, Springfield 488-9 252 nukupokaiwhenuakitan- , accommodation 250 17 46 St Arnaud 423-4 atahu 349 Craigieburn Valley 47, 488 climate 250 St Bathans 533-4 Taupo 58, 251-62, 254, food 250 Fairlie 498 State Highway 25 204 257 highlights 252 45, 498 Stewart Island 599-606, accommodation 259-60 travel seasons 250 Hanmer Springs 47, 485 600, 603 activities 255-9 Ruatoria 323 internet resources 44 Stingray Bay 208 drinking & nightlife 261-2 Ruby Coast 409-11 Manganui 44, 227 Stirling Point 594 entertainment 262 rugby 14, 23, 244-5, 361, 14 Methven 490-1 Stonehenge Aotearoa 380 food 261 Russell 139-42, 140 Mt Dobson 45, 498 Stony Bay 203 Māori culture 256 Mt Hutt 45, 491 Stratford 229-30 shopping 262 Mt Lyford 47, 485 Surf Highway 45 230-3 sights 253-4 S Mt Olympus 47, 488 surfing 51 safety 37, 267, 648, 658 tours 259 Mt Sutton 501 Ahipara 158 sailing 481 travel to/from 262 45, 501 Auckland 77 Abel Tasman National travel within 262 Otago 47 Christchurch 468 Park 417 Taupo Bay 153 Porters 45, 47, 488 Curio Bay 595 Auckland 75 Tauranga 298-304, 299 Queenstown 44, 547-8 Dunedin 521 Bay of Islands 137, 138 Tauranga Bay 151-2 Rainbow 47, 424 Gisborne 328 Paihia 145 Tauranga Bridge 322 Remarkables, the 44, Kaikoura 398 Taupo 259 Tautuku Bay 597 547 Manu Bay 179 Tauranga 300 Tawarau Forest 191 Roundhill 45, 499 Mt Maunganui 304 Wellington 358 taxes 647, 653 668 taxis 658 Fox Glacier 451-3 TranzAlpine Railway 19, food 166 Te Anau 577-80, 578 Franz Josef Glacier 449 469, 19 highlights 168 Te Anau–Milford Highway Gisborne 328 travel to/from New Zealand history 167 584-5 Great Barrier Island 652-3 Māori culture 169 Te Araroa 41, 323 109, 111 travel within New Zealand travel seasons 166 653-8 Te Aroha 184-5 Kahurangi National Park Waikawa 596-7 travellers cheques 647 INDEX INDEX Te Awamutu 180-1 422-3 Waikawau 191 Treaty of Waitangi 614 Te Henga (Bethells Beach) Kaikoura 398, 399 Waikawau Bay 203 trekking, see Great Walks, 115 Kaimai Mamaku Forest Waimamaku 162 Te Kaha 322 Park 300 tramping, walks T- Waimangu Volcanic Valley  Kapiti Island 374 trout 264 W Te Kooti 333 294-5  Tryphena 109 Te Kuiti 192 Karamea 433 420 588-9 Te Mata Peak 344 Karangahake Gorge Waioeka Gorge 322 214-15 tuataras 181, 621 Te Papa 357 Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Kerikeri 149 Tuhua (Mayor Island) 308 Te Puia 282 Wonderland 295, 12 Mangapurua/ Te Puia Springs 323 tui 623 Waiotemarama 162 Kaiwhakauka Track Turangi 262-6, 263 Te Puke 310 242-3 Waiouru 276-7 Tutukaka 134 Te Urewera National Park Mangawhai 126 Waipara Valley 487-8 332-5 Tutukaka Coast 134-5 Matemateāonga Track Waipiro Bay 323 TV 635, 645 Te Waewae 589 242 Waipoua Forest 162-3 Twizel 500-2 Te-Waha-O-Rerekohu 323 Mt Taranaki (Egmont Waipukurau 349 Te Waikoropupū Springs National Park) 227 Wairarapa, the 376-81 419 Mt Te Aroha 184 335-6 Te Whakarewarewa 282 U National Park Village Ulva Island 601 Waitakere Ranges 113-14 telephone services 20, 272-3 410 Waitaki Valley 511-12 648-9 Nelson Lakes National Urupukapuka Island 147, 11 Waitangi 142-7 Thames 197-9, 198 Park 423-4 Waitomo Caves 13, 187-91, theatre 632 New Plymouth 221-2 189, 13 Three Sisters 226 Nydia Track 392 V Waiwera 118 Tikitiki 323 vegetarian travellers 53 Ohakune 274 wakeboarding 256 Timaru 494-6, 495 visas 650 Oparara Basin 434 walks, see Great Walks, time 649 Paparoa National Park visual arts 635-6 tramping tipping 647 436 volcanoes 68, 620-1 Alexandra-Clyde 150th Tiritiri Matangi Island 108 Punakaiki 436 Maunganui Bluff 163 Anniversary Walk Titirangi 113 Pureora Forest Park 194 Moutuhora (Whale 535, 537 Tititea/Mt Aspiring 569 Queen Charlotte Track Island) 315 Aoraki/Mt Cook National toilets 649 390 Mt Eden 67-8 Park 503, 505 Toi’s Pa 312 Rotorua 286-7 Mt Ngauruhoe 267 Arthur’s Pass 489 Tokomaru Bay 323 Takaka 419 Mt Ruapehu 266-7 Banks Peninsula Track Tolaga Bay 323 Tarawera Trail 297 Mt Taranaki 226-7, 2 479 Tongariro National Park 14, Taupo 255 Mt Tongariro 267 Blue Pools Walk 574 266-70, 268, 14 Tawarau Forest 191 One Tree Hill 73 Bridle Track 574 tourist information 649 Te Urewera National Park Rangitoto Island 101 Caples Track 561, 560 train travel 19, 658 332-3 Tuhua (Mayor Island) Catlins River-Wisp Loop Track 598 tramping 25, 36-42, see Tolaga Bay 323 308 also Great Walks, walks Tongariro National Park Whakaari (White Island) Chasm Walk 585 Abel Tasman National 267-70 315, 322 Dusky Track 587, 588 Park 414-17 Turangi 263 volunteering 650 Gibbston River Trail 550 Auckland 77 Victoria Forest Park 429 Gillespie Pass 574 Cambridge 182 Waiheke Island 103 Glenorchy Walkway 559 Cape Reinga 156 Waitakere Ranges 113-14 W Greenstone Track 561, 560 Waihau Bay 323 Coromandel Coastal Waitomo Caves 190 Haast Pass Lookout Waiheke Island 9, 102-7, Walkway 203 Westport 430-1 Track 574 104, 8-9 Coromandel Forest Whakapapa Village 271 Hollyford Track 582, 584 Waihi 212-14 Park 201 Whangamata 211 Hooker Valley Track 505 Waihi Beach 212-14 Croesus Track 440 Whanganui National Park Hump Ridge Track 588 Waikanae 376 242-3 Kea Point Track 505 Waikato 57, 166, 167-85, Whangarei Heads 134 Kepler Track 580-1, 581 168, 171 Whangaroa Harbour 153 Lake Gunn Nature Walk Map Pages 000 accommodation 166 Whirinaki Forest Park 584 Photo Pages 000 climate 166 295 Lake Hayes Walkway 564 669 Lake Sylvan Tramp 559 climate 351 Whangaroa Harbour 152-3 Wanaka 566 Milford Track 582, 583 drinking & nightlife Wharariki Beach 421, 24 Warkworth 120 Minaret Burn Track 567 368-9 Whareorino Forest 191 women travellers 650 Mt Cargill-Bethunes entertainment 369-70 Whataroa 446 work 651 Gully Walkway 522 festivals & events 361-2 Whenuakite 207 Mt Iron 567 food 351, 365-7 White Cliffs 225 Z Mt Somers 492 highlights 352 INDEX white herons 446 ziplining 103, 283, 285, 548 North West Circuit Track information 371 whitebait 443 603 zoos & wildlife reserves, itineraries 358 white-water rafting 51 see also bird parks Peel Forest 493 Māori culture 374 Buller Gorge 427-8 Aroha Island 148  W-Z Queenstown 543 shopping 370-1 East Cape 324 Auckland Zoo 73  Rakiura Track 602-3 sights 353-8 Franz Josef Glacier 450 Blue Penguin Colony 513 Rob Roy Glacier Track tours 360-1 Kaikoura 398-9 569 Farewell Spit 421 travel seasons 351 Mohaka River 350 Goat Island Marine Routeburn Nature Walk travel to/from 371-2 559 Mountain Valley 340 Reserve 121 travel within 372-3 Routeburn Track 559-61, Opotiki 317 Hamilton Zoo 170 walking tours 359, 359 560, 24 Queenstown 545 Hanmer Springs Animal Wellington Region 59, Park 484 Sealy Tarns Track 505 352 Rangitata River 493 accommodation 351 Kiwi Birdlife Park 542 Stewart Island 602-3 Reefton 429 climate 351 Kiwi North 130 Tasman Glacier 507 Rotorua 287 food 351 Kotuku Sanctuary 446 Tongariro Alpine Taihape 277 Crossing 40, 267-9, 14 Māori culture 428 Turangi 263-4 Motuara Island 388 Tunnel Beach Walkway highlights 352 Whitianga 204-7 Nature’s Wonders 522 travel seasons 351 wi-fi 646 Naturally 528 West Matukituki Valley Wellington Sevens 23, 361 wildlife reserves, see zoos Nga Manu Nature Track 569 West Coast 13, 59, 425-56, & wildlife reserves Reserve 376 Wilkin Valley Track 574 426 Wilsons Bay 200 Orana Wildlife Park 467 Wanaka 60, 540, 566-72, accommodation 425 windsurfing Orokonui Ecosanctuary 528 541, 567 climate 425 Ocean Beach 179 Owlcatraz 249 accommodation 540, food 425 Tauranga 300 569-70 highlights 426 Paradise Valley Springs Wellington 358 283 activities 566-8 travel seasons 425 wine 25, 54, see also Penguin Place 529 climate 540 Westland 441-6 wineries drinking & nightlife 571-2 Point Kean Seal Colony Westland Tai Poutini festivals 23, 24, 26, 103, 398 entertainment 572 National Park 447-54 145, 329, 378, 394 Poor Knights Marine festivals & events 569 Westport 430-3 wineries Reserve 135 food 540, 570-1 weta 622 Auckland 98 Pukaha Mt Bruce highlights 541, 542 Whakaari (White Island) Gibbston Valley 550 National Wildlife information 572 315, 322 Gisborne 328 Centre 381 Māori culture 543 Whakaipo Bay 256 Hawke’s Bay 346 Punanga Manu o Te shopping 572 Whakapapa Village 271-2 Kaitaia 157 Anau 577 sights 566 Whakarewarewa Village Karangahake Gorge 215 Rainbow Springs 283 282 tours 568-9 Karikari Peninsula 155 Royal Albatross Centre Whakatane 310-15, travel seasons 540 311 Katikati 309 528-9 Whale Bay 134 travel to/from 541, 572 Kerikeri 148-9 Sugar Loaf Islands whales 399, 623 Marine Park 220 travel within 572 Kumeu 115-16 Whananaki 134 Te Angiangi Marine Wanganui, see Whanganui Mangawhai 126 Whangamata 211-12 Reserve 349 Warkworth 119-20 Marlborough 396-7, 24 Whangamomona 229 Te Whanganui-A-Hei weather 20, 23-6, see Mt Difficulty 539 Marine Reserve 205 also individual regions Whangamumu Harbour 136 Napier 340 Ulva Island 601 weaving 631 Whanganui 58, 216, 233-8, Otago 512 Wellington Zoo 357 websites, see internet 218-19, 234, 240 Queenstown 549 West Coast Wildlife resources Whanganui National Park Richmond 410 Centre 448-9 weights 645 238-44 Rotorua 283 Wharekawa Wildlife Wellington 10, 59, 353-73, Whanganui River Road 239 Russell 140 Refuge 211 354-5, 360-1, 10 Whangaparaoa (Cape Runaway) 323 Tauranga 298-9 Willowbank Wildlife accommodation 351, Reserve 467 Whangapoua 204 Waiheke Island 102 362-5 Yellow-Eyed Penguin Whangarei 129-33, Waipara Valley 487 activities 358-60 130-1 Colony 513 Whangarei Heads 133-4 Wairarapa, the 377 children, travel with 363 Zealandia 353 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 670

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Peter Dragicevich Auckland, Dunedin & Otago, Queenstown & Wanaka, Fiordland & Southland After nearly a decade working for off-shore publishing companies, Peter’s life has come full circle, returning to his home city of Auckland. As Managing Editor of Express newspaper he spent much of the nineties writing about the local arts, club and bar scene. This is the 5th edition of the New Zealand guidebook to which he has contrib- uted and, after dozens of Lonely Planet assignments, it remains his favourite gig. Read more about Peter at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/peterdragicevich

Contributing Writers Professor James Belich wrote the History chapter. James is one of NZ’s pre-eminent histor­ians and the award-winning author of The New Zealand Wars, Making Peoples and Paradise Reforged. He has also worked in TV – New Zealand Wars was screened in NZ in 1998.

Tony Horwitz wrote the Captain James Cook boxed text in the History chapter. Tony is a Pulitzer- winning reporter and nonfiction author. His fascination with James Cook, and with travel, took him around NZ, Australia and the Pacific while researching Blue Latitudes (alternatively titled Into the Blue), part biography of Cook and part travelogue.

John Huria (Ngai Tahu, Muaupoko) wrote the Māori Culture chapter. John has an editorial, research and writing background with a focus on Māori writing and culture. He was senior editor for Māori publishing company Huia and now runs an editorial and publishing services company, Ahi Text Solutions Ltd (www.ahitextsolutions.co.nz).

Josh Kronfeld wrote the Surfing in New Zealand boxed text in the Extreme New Zealand chapter. Josh is an ex–All Black flanker, whose passion for surfing NZ’s beaches is legendary and who found travelling for rugby a way to surf other great breaks around the world.

Gareth Shute wrote the Music section in the Arts & Music chapter. Gareth is the author of four books, including Hip Hop Music in Aotearoa and NZ Rock 1987–2007. He is also a musician and has toured the UK, Europe and Australia as a member of the Ruby Suns and the Brunettes. He now plays in indie soul group The Cosbys.

Vaughan Yarwood wrote the Environment chapter. Vaughan is an Auckland-based writer whose books include The History Makers: Adventures in New Zealand Biography, The Best of New Zea- land: A Collection of Essays on NZ Life and Culture by Prominent Kiwis, which he edited, and the regional history Between Coasts: From Kaipara to Kawau. He has written widely for NZ and inter- national publications and is the former associate editor of New Zealand Geographic, for which he has also written for many years. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Charles Rawlings-Way Taranaki & Whanganui, East Coast (North Island), Wellington English by birth, Australian by chance, All Blacks fan by choice: Charles’s early understanding of Aotearoa was less than comprehensive (sheep, mountains, sheep on moun- tains...). He realised there was more to it when a wandering uncle returned with a faux-jade tiki in 1981. He wore it with pride until he saw the NZ cricket team’s beige uniforms in 1982... Mt Taranaki’s snowy summit, Napier’s art deco deliv- erance and Whanganui’s raffish charm have helped him forgive: he’s once again smitten with the country’s phantasmal landscapes, disarming locals, and determination to sculpt its own political and indigenous destiny. Charles also wrote the Planning, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Brett Atkinson Bay of Islands & Northland, Waikato & Coromandel Peninsula, Taupo & the Cen- tral Plateau, Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty Born in Rotorua, but now a proud res- ident of Auckland, Brett explored the top half of New Zealand’s North Island for this edition. Excursions to Northland, the Coromandel Peninsula and Tongariro National Park echoed family holidays from an earlier century, and rediscovering his home town also evoked great memories. Brett’s contributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Asia and the Pacific, and covered around 50 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.

Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater Marlborough & Nelson, West Coast (), Christchurch & Canterbury Sarah and Lee specialise in NZ travel, with a particular focus on outdoor adven- ture including hiking, mountain biking and camping. In addition to five editions of the New Zealand guidebook, they are also co-authors of Lonely Planet’s Hiking & and New Zealand’s Best Trips. Read more at www. bennettandslater.co.nz. Sarah and Lee also wrote the Skiing & Snowboarding, Hiking and Extreme New Zealand chapters.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 18th edition – Sep 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 024 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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