Vol. 4 No. 1 Vol.

Spring 2011 K M Y C

Spring 2011 Vol. 4 No. 1

ISSN 2005-0151 ISBN 2005-0151

C M Y K

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Spring 2011 Vol. 4 No. 1

Cover

Blue symbolizes spring. The symbolism originates from the traditional “five direc- tional colors” based on the ancient Chinese thought of wuxing, or ohaengohaeng in Korean. The five colors were associated with seasons and other phenomena in nature, including the fate of humans. The cover design fea- tures phoenixes or bonghwang, a popular motif in Korean traditional arts. For more stories about animal symbols, see p. 22.

KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website. ( http://english.cha.go.kr ) CHA New Vignettes Korean Folk Customs

Choe Takes Office as New Administrator Five Colors and Five Flavors: Bibimbap for Global Gourmets

Choe Kwang-shik, former director of the National Museum of Korea, was appointed Traditional Korean dishes are characterized by an orchestration of rich colors and new administrator of the Cultural Heritage Administration on February 9. He suc- flavors. They often harmonize the five fundamental colors of blue, white, black, red ceeded Yi Kun-moo, who served as CHA administrator for the past 35 months. In his and yellow, deriving from the East Asian philosophy of the “five phases” (ohaeng, or inaugural address, Mr. Choe emphasized international exchange of cultural heritage, wuxing in Chinese). These colors are associated with the five cardinal directions of social role of cultural heritage, transparent cultural heritage administration and culti- east, west, north, south and center; they are also related with the five basic flavors and vation of specialized human resources. the five viscera in the human body.

CHA Marks the 50th Anniversary The five viscera and the six entrails in the human body are believed to have been created with dif- The Cultural Heritage Administration marks this year the 50th anniversary of its foun- ferent energy from different cosmic elements. dation as the Cultural Properties Preservation Bureau at the Ministry of Culture and Therefore, each organ can be vitalized with food Education in 1961. The Cultural Properties Preservation Bureau was promoted to the with a different flavor. Korean dishes embody this Cultural Heritage Administration in 1999. With a view to reflecting on the past half time-honored principle rooted in the Oriental science and philosophy. Bibimbap is one century and presenting future visions, CHA plans to publish “A 50-Year History of of the dishes that represent the principle most palpably. Cultural Heritage Administration.” A mixture of cooked rice and a variety of seasoned vegetables and meat with red chili Dedication of Rebuilt Gate Slated for 2013 sauce, bibimbap is a healthy dish and a full meal in itself, with the ideal 7:3 ratio of vegetables and meat. The toppings are typically made of shredded carrot, squash Three years since a fire destroyed Sungnyemun (South Gate) on February 20, 2008, meat, bellflower roots, fern brake, and fried egg. With these colorful toppings care- shocking and grieving the nation, the reconstruction of the historic gate is currently fully arranged on top of steaming white rice, bibimbap is a pleasure for both the eye proceeding smoothly toward its dedication scheduled for 2013. CHA is making all and the palate. possible efforts to restore the original appearance of the landmark gate and also to recover the walls on both sides, which were removed during the Japanese colonial The assorted toppings have all of the five fundamental colors and five basic flavors. As period. they are all mixed well and eaten together, bibimbap offers a delectable feast of colors and flavors assuring balanced nutrition. Spring 2011 Vol. 4 No. 1

CONTENTS

06 rediscovery of Korea Palace 26 Photo Gallery

Royal Palaces in Seoul Gyeongju Historic Areas Residences of Joseon Kings Home of Brilliant Silla Culture

12 Intangible Heritage 34 Foreigner’s View

Heart and Soul for Every Single Stitch Seochon: Seoul’s Retro Neighborhood Wakes Up Quilting Requires Flawless Needlework to Change

16 Natural Heritage 38 overseas Korean Cultural Assets

Bird Pass of Mungyeong Joseon Painter An Gyeon’s Masterpiece Tracking the Ancient Mountain Trail “Dream Journey to the Peach Blossom Land”

22 Special Report 42 Modern Heritage

Life’s Aspirations and Creative Imagination Soyangno Catholic Church in Chuncheon Animal Symbols in Korean Cultural Heritage Pioneer in Korea’s Modern Church Architecture rediscovery of Korean Palace 6 |.7

Royal Palaces in Seoul Residences of Joseon Kings

Text by Choi Joon-sik | Professor, Graduate School of International Studies, Ewha Womans University Photos by Graphickorea & Goodimage

This is the first installment of four-part series on the royal palaces of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) in Seoul, which are living legacies of the history and culture of the Joseon Dynasty.

A palace refers to a grand residence of the palace grounds. Of the numerous buildings 1. Gwanghwamun (Gate of Light and Harmony) is the main en- king as well as the seat of government in a in the palace complex, only those where the trance of Gyeongbok Palace. monarchical state. A palace functioned as an king and other top-ranking members of the administrative center and a small city, where royal family lived or used were called jeon. people of various social classes, including Among prominent examples are the throne the royal family members, officials, court hall, Geunjeongjeon (Hall of Diligent Gov-

maids and eunuchs, lived and worked. ernance); the king’s bedchamber, Gangnyeo- 2. The rear garden of Jagyeo- ngjeon (Hall of Health and Tranquility); and ngjeon, the queen dowager’s residence in Gyeongbok Pal- Etymology the queen’s bedchamber, Gyotaejeon (Hall ace, has beautiful ornamental In Korea the place where the king resided of Union and Peace). chimneys. and governed was called gung, gunggwol, or gungjeon. These words were used inter- changeably. Precisely speaking, however,

each1 word has different connotations. A pal- ace, or gung, was surrounded by walls, gates and observation towers, which were collec- tively called gwol. For example, in Gyeo- ngbok Palace, the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty, the gwol consisted of gates, includ- ing the main entrance, Gwanghwamun (Gate of Light and Harmony); observation towers, including Dongsipjagak (Eastern Obser- 1 2 vation Tower); and the walls enclosing the 8 | 9 Rediscovery of Korean Palace

for many years after being burnt down, and 5. A map of Seoul as the capital of the Joseon Dy- was recently rebuilt to restore much of its old nasty. shape. Another “palace other than the five royal palaces,” Unhyeon Palace was the resi- dence of Prince Regent Heungseon (1820– 1898), the birth father of King Gojong, who ruled Joseon with an iron fist on behalf of his son during much of his perturbed reign.

A unique example of a royal memorial shrine called a palace is Chilgung (Seven Palaces). Located right next to the presidential man- 2. Yangdong Village: The sion, Cheong Wa Dae, and north of the present village developed along several small valleys run- Gyeongbok Palace compound, the shrine me- ning in parallel from its morializes seven concubines of Joseon kings. main guardian mountain at Their sons became reigning kings but these the rear. 5 women were not invested as queens during their lifetime. One of them is the Royal Con- sort Sukbin and Lady Choe (1670–1718), Outer Court and East Palace mother of King Yeongjo. The king held audiences with his subjects of all ranks and hosted banquets for visit- 3 A typical Korean palace complex is divided ing foreign emissaries at pavilions in the largely into the inner court (naejeon) and the outer court. Naturally, the outer court was 3. A general view of Gyeo- Palaces with Different Functions Koreans who have been to Forbidden City the most authentic and dignified quarters in ngbok Palace, the main pal- outer court (oejeon); the former refers to the There are royal palaces in Seoul, the capital in Beijing complain of the “small scale” of ace of the Joseon Dynasty living quarters of the king and the queen, a royal palace. This specific section was sur- (1392–1910). of the Joseon Dynasty, then called Hanyang. their ancestors’ architectural undertakings. where the royal couple resided and met peo- rounded with colonnaded corridors, and the They are Gyeongbok, Changdeok, Chang- However, Gyeongbok Palace in its peak days ple, and the latter to the official areas where square courtyard inside was called jojeong, gyeong, Gyeongun (Deoksu) and Gyeonghui was about half of the Forbidden City in land which was synonymous with “government.” 4. Geunjeongjeon (Hall of Dili- the king held ceremonies and banquets. 6. Chilgung, or the even Pal- gent Governance) is the throne palaces. Hanyang had many palaces, con- area. Add to it the adjacent Changdeok and In Gyeongbok Palace, the “court,” referred ace, is a memoial shrine for hall in Gyeongbok Palace. sidering its rather moderate size. Not a few Changgyeong palaces, and one may see the seven royal concubines of In particular, the queen resided in the deepest to the courtyard surrounding the main throne Korean palaces were not small at all. Then, the Joseon Dynasty, whose hall. sons ascended the throne. combine the land areas of all five palaces, section of the inner court, which was called and it becomes clear that our ancient palaces junggungjeon, or shortened as jungjeon, mean- were not so lamentably small. ing the “middle court.” In Korean period dramas the queen is referred to as jungjeon Temporary residences of kings outside the mama, meaning “Her Majesty of the Mid- capital were also called gung, or more spe- dle Court.” The inner court also includes cifically haenggung, literally the “traveling the king’s office, called pyeonjeon, mean- palace.” There is a temporary palace for ing “side hall,” where the king held cabinet King Jeongjo (r. 1776–1800) in Hwaseong meetings and handled routine state affairs. Fortress, where he stayed while on trips to Sajeongjeon (Hall of Thoughtful Gover- visit his father’s graveyard. Namhan Moun- nance) is the king’s office at Gyeongbok Pal- tain Fortress has a temporary palace for King ace, and Seonjeongjeon (Hall of Promoting Injo, which was built before the first Man- Governance) is its counterpart at Changdeok 4 6 chu invasion of 1627. It remained in ruins Palace. 10 | 11 Rediscovery of Korean Palace

Outer Court Gyeongbok Palace Inner Court East Palace

8. Gyotaejeon, the queen’s bedchamber in Gyeongbok 8 Palace.

East Palace functioned as the personal resi- Yejo (Ministry of Rites), Byeongjo (Minis- dence of crown princes as well as their pri- try of Military Affairs), Hyeongjo (Ministry Gyotaejeon vate educational institution. of Punishments) and Gongjo (MinisPublic Works); Hanseongbu (Hanseong Magis- Offices for the King’s Aides trate’s Office), the metropolitan government A royal palace also comprised areas where of the capital city; and Saheonbu (Office of the king’s aides performed their duties. These the Inspector-General), a surveillance organ areas were called gwollae gaksa, meaning that monitored the conduct of officials and Geunjeongjeon the “offices inside the palace.” Assisting the rectified public mores. king handling daily state affairs, they includ- ed the Seungjeongwon (Royal Secretariat) 9. Injeongjeon (Hall of and Yemungwan (Office of Royal Decrees). Benevolent Governance) is the throne hall in There also was the Chunchugwan (Office for Changdeok Palace. Annals Compilation), set up on a temporary basis to compile the annals of individual kings after their death, as well as the offices of stewards and security officers.

Cabinet ministries and various other govern- 7. A ground plan of ment agencies, called gworoe gaksa, were Gyeongbok Palace. 7 Gwanghwamun located right outside of Gyeongbok Palace, Coming next to the outer court in political of the East Palace,” the east symbolizing mostly along the main avenue stretching importance was Donggung (East Palace), the his status as the “rising power.” In their per- to south from the palace’s main gate. They residence of the crown prince, which was ac- sonal residence the crown princes of Joseon included the Uijeongbu (State Council), tually located in an eastern section of the pal- received extensive education as the future the highest government organ; Yukjo (Six ace. Hence the crown prince was referred to monarch under an exclusive faculty usually Ministries), which were the Yijo (Ministry as donggung mama, meaning “His Highness consisting of some 20 professors. Thus, the of Personnel), Hojo (Ministry of Taxation), 9 Intangible Heritage 12 | 13

Heart and Soul for Every Single Stitch Quilting Requires Flawless Needlework

Text by Hwang Gyeong-sun | Curator, Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Division National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage Photos by Seo Heun-kang

Quilting generally refers to sewing together ing methods varying depending on usage. 1. A beautiful ensemble of two or more layers of fabric with batting Quilting was also a useful skill for making quilted jacket and skirt. inside to make a thicker padded material, small daily items other than clothing, such mostly for warm clothing. Traditional Ko- as cotton-padded dish wrappers to keep food rean quilting, called nubi, is unique in that it warm and tablecloths made by joining fine requires precisely even stitches all over the silk and oil paper to cover a dining table laid entire material. Quilting is done not only for out for a meal. clothing material but for beddings and small ornamental items such as bags, hats or arm Korean Nubi Methods warmers. Quilting was of course done by hand in old days. The quilter’s tools included thread Origin and Usage As shown by many antique objects from the Joseon period (1392–1910), quilting began to be widely practiced in Korea after cotton farming became active. Quilting in Korea is said to have been originated from patched robes of Buddhist monks. Patching up the worn garments of ascetics developed into quilting, and the skill spread to ordinary people as quilted material proved to be func- tional and durable as well as decorative.

Quilted attire is mentioned in historical re- cords. Genre paintings of late Joseon period also feature people in quilted clothes, some made of luxurious silk and others of simple 2. Kim Hae-ja is a “living cotton. Quilted clothing ranged from fancy treasure” in the field of 1 2 outer wear to emergency outfits, the sew- traditional quilting. Intangible Heritage 14 | 15

forehand, to keep cotton wadding from being handicrafts was that she acquired her skill on dragged out. her own through solitary endeavor while the others inherited their skills and titles from Although it appears to be a simple craft, their teachers. nubi quilting requires utmost concentration to produce impeccably fine stitches all over Kim says it takes her a whole week, working the material without warping the surface. 10 hours a day, to finish a jacket quilted at For women of the Joseon era, who endured a width of 1.0 centimeter. It can even take various hardships in a male-dominated Con- 20 days with finer quilting. Making each and fucian society, the quilting probably had the every stitch with all her heart and soul along 3. A woman’s jacket and skirt effect of relieving tension from daily life. a predetermined course, she realizes her made of quilted material. Hence, even ordinary housewives could work resembles her life over the past three make works with artistic value. decades as a self-taught artisan pursuing a sole objective. To ensure good quality, both the surface and back layers need to be of the same fabric, and plain fabric yields better effects. Silk is soft and light, so is easier to quilt than cotton. Gar- ments made of quilted material hardly needs any cumbersome treatment after washing.

The Master Nubi Artisan Kim Hae-ja, a master quilter holding the title 3 of Important Intangible Cultural Property, says she became interested in quilting after discovering the simple beauty of Buddhist monks’ robes. In her twenties Kim attended a dressmaking institute, where she couldn’t made from the same type of yarn as the ma- scissors, pressing iron, roller, thimble, and learn enough about quilting. After searching

4. A quilter’s sewing kit and terial to be quilted, needles in varying sizes ruler. In the authentic traditional process, around on her own, she found a teacher who equipment. and thickness suitable for different fabrics, the quilting material is rolled on a roller; the was making monks’ robes in Changnyeong, quilter holds the roller with the left hand, South Gyeongsang Province. Kim learned while the other end of the material is pinned basics of hand quilting from her and then be- down on the floor by using the right foot; gan visiting museums throughout the country then stitching begins along a line. to learn more from ancient quilted objects.

Broad stitches are most often used in tradi- Traveling during the day and sewing by tional Korean quilting, with back-stitching nights, Kim continued her research for more occasionally applied. Even stitches done than a decade. Her hard work eventually paid along a straight line are mainly used on off. She succeeded in reviving the lost tech- garments and beddings, while straight and niques one by one. In 1996 she was desig- curved lines are harmonized for decorative nated Important Intangible Cultural Property 5. A man’s quilted overcoat purposes on purses and wrappers. Thread is No. 107. A significant difference between her made of naturally dyed 4 5 cut in regular lengths, waxed and ironed be- and most other master artisans of traditional fabric. Natural Heritage 16 | 17

Bird Pass of Mungyeong Tracking the Ancient Mountain Trail

Text by Lee Eun-bok | Member of the Cultural Heritage Committee Photos by Simong photo agency & Graphic korea

Mungyeong Saejae, or the Bird Pass of Mungyeong, is the most well- known section of the old road between Seoul and Busan. It was among the most heavily traveled rural roads during the Joseon Dynasty (1392– 1910). The name suggests how lofty and precarious the mountain pass was; even birds find it difficult to cross the pass. It indeed was. Nowa- days, however, the jagged mountain path has been transformed into a romantic mud trail that you would even want to walk on barefooted.

1 Natural Heritage 18 | 19

2 3

1. Mungyeong Sajae, or Korea’s Tea Horse Road Traveled by numerous people over the cen- of the meandering ridges of Baekdu Daegan Rising slightly off the Baekdu Daegan, Mt. 3. The wall of Seokhyeon the Bird Pass of Mungyeo- stretches out from Gomo ng, is a main section of the The old mountain path covers some 6.5 kilo- turies, the lime trail has become much safer (White Head Great Ridge), the mountain Juheul (1,106 meters) resembles a crane Mountain Fortress. old road linking Seoul and meters, from the first gateway Juheul Pass to and even shines like marble. This section of range running through the Korean peninsula stretching its wings to fly. Among many Busan. Jogok Pass and then to Joryeong Pass. Long the old Seoul-Busan road, called Yeongnam from Mt. Baekdu (Paektu) on the northern famous sites in this mountain are a 20-me- known for its exquisite scenery, the area is Daero, keeps the road’s ancient shape most edge to Mt. Jiri in the south. Known as the ter cascade named Yeogung Falls, Hyeguk 2. Tokki Biri (Rabbit’s Cliff- now designated Scenic Site No. 32, drawing intact. The “rabbit’s trail” begins where the peninsula’s “spine,” the occasionally rocky Temple and the site of a temporary palace, side Trail) leads up to the Bird Pass of Mungyeong. many visitors from around the country. side wall of Seokhyeon, stretching from range has formed many famous mountains. where King Gongmin of Goryeo are said to Gomo Mountain Fortress, ends. Gomo Four of the 100 most famous mountains in have taken refuge briefly in 1361 during an The Bird Pass of Mungyeong is not only Sanseong was built in the fourth century Korea are located here. They are Juheulsan, invasion by the Red Turbans. The mountain beautiful but treacherous. In particular, Tok- while Silla was confronting Goguryeo in the Daeyasan, Huiyangsan and Hwangjangsan, reveals clean streams and waterfalls around ki Biri (Rabbit’s Cliff-side Trail) is famously north in an effort to expand territory. each dotted with numerous scenic spots and every bend; famously scenic mountains such tricky. Designated Scenic Site No. 31, this cultural monuments along their valleys. as Woraksan, Sobaeksan and Songnisan narrow trail leading up to the Bird Pass is From this perilous trail the upper stream of come into view from the summit. often compared to the Tea Horse Road con- the Yeong River encircling scenic ridges of Mt. Hwangjang (1077.3 meters) stands on necting China’s Sichuan Province and Tibet. Mt. Ojeong comes into full view. This area, the midpoint of the South Korean section Mt. Huiyang (999 meters), featuring tall gran- Legend has it that one day early in the 10th named Jinnam Gyoban, meaning the “bridge of Baekdu Daegan. An association of local ite peaks, sits on the hypogastric area, or century, Wang Geon, who would later found side south of the garrison,” is acclaimed as climbers set up a marker along Chagat Pass underbelly, of the Baekdu Daegan. Huiyang the Goryeo Dynasty, was aimlessly running “Little Diamond of Mungyeong” for its in- on this mountain, alongside a jangseung Mountain Fortress beneath the summit testi- through the woods while being chased by triguing scenery. Four bridges, including one guardian pole. Virgin forests are well pre- fies to fierce battles that Silla fought against the troops of Gyeon Hwon, the king of Late for railroad, cross the river here. served along the deep valleys lined by rocky Later Baekje over territory during its waning Baekje. At the most critical moment, Wang ridges and cliffs. Along the mountain ridges years. The mountain’s historic and religious noticed a rabbit running along a steep, cliff- Palpable Breath of History are found remnants of Jakseong, or the Mag- significance is best represented by Bongam side path. Removing the bush he found a se- Renowned for its spectacular mountainscape, pie Fortress, assumed to have been built by Temple, nestled at its broad southern foot. cret trail and escaped. Mungyeong embraces some 110 kilometers Goguryeo, a rival state of Silla to its north. Since it was founded by Great Master Jijeung Natural Heritage 20 | 21

Picturesque Valleys and Streams The valley adjacent to Bongam Temple The mountains in Mungyeong have many is named Bongam Yonggok, meaning the picturesque valleys. Yongchu Valley in Mt. “Phoenix Rock and Dragon Valley,” a sym- Daeya is especially prized for its beautiful bolic description of the scenery. About scenery comprising waterfalls, pools and a 10-minute walk from the temple, a big granite rock boulders, which have earned rock boulder carved with a seated Maitreya reputation as the nation’s “100 most beauti- emerges. In front of this broad rock boulder ful waterways” selected by the Ministry of a cool clean stream flows over flat bedrock. Land, Transport and Maritime Affairs. The Though smaller in scale, the scenery here is granite bedrocks shine like marble from compared to Manpokdong, or the “Valley under a clean stream. The gigantic granite of Ten Thousand Falls,” in Mt. Kumgang rocks with mysterious patterns resembling a (Geumgang). When struck with a stone, the 4. Yongchu Valley in Mt. 8 Daeya has a clean stream dragon’s scales rise over a deep pool shaped rock boulder makes a pure sound resembling and waterfalls. like a heart as a result of erosion over thou- that of a wooden gong. 5. A stone wall and par- sands of years. The valley is as popular as allel path lead down to any beach in summer. Other famous valleys in the area include Seokhyeon from Gomo Mountain Fortress. 4 5 Ssangyong Gyegok (Twin Dragon Valley) The nearby Seonyu Gugok, or the “Nine and Undal Gyegok (Cloud Shade Valley). in 879 during the reign of King Heongang Bongamsa preserves a number of valuable Bend Valley of Immortals,” has an outdoor Malbawi (Horse Rock) is a historical relic of Silla, Bongamsa has thrived as a hub of cultural monuments, including the Paradise pavilion built in memory of Yi Jae, a schol- related with Gyeon Hwon (867–935), who Zen Buddhism. Jijeung suggested the site’s Hall (Geungnakjeon), which served as a tu- ar of the 18th-century Joseon Dynasty, by established the short-lived kingdom, Later unusual vigor by saying, “It should become telary shrine for King Gyeongsun, the last his students. Pine trees surround the Crane Baekje, after Baekje fell. either a monks’ shelter or a bandit’s den.” ruler of Silla, while he was taking refuge Spring Pavilion (Hakcheonjeong), at the here. The inscription on the memorial stele back of which a rock is found to be inscribed Bongam Temple has been known as the for Great Master Jijeung was composed by with “sango sujang,” meaning “the mountain “birthplace” of modern Korean Buddhism Choe Chi-won, a famous scholar and writer is high and the water is long.” The inscrip- since a group of young monks pledged here in the ninth century. The forbidden woods tion embodies the ideals of ancient scholars in 1947 to strictly abide by the Buddha’s in the mountain are also recognized as an to cultivate their character in the scenic en- words in order to set an austere example for ecological haven. There is a saying that wild vironment so they could attain the virtues of 6. A general view of Bon- the clergy. The monks, including Seongche- animals gather here from nearby mountains mountain and water. gam Temple. ol, Cheongdam and Jaun, who would all later when they hear a gunshot. become leaders of the Korean Buddhist com- munity, entered into a joint meditation under Mt. Daeya (930.7 meters) attracts endless the slogan, “Let’s live just as the Buddha streams of people climbing Baekdu Daegan taught.” Thus they triggered a movement to around the year, as its summit provides a establish stern monastic regulations. panoramic view of the spectacular range in all directions. The mountain has gentle val- Beginning in 1982, Bongamsa as well as the leys unfolding alongside pristine streams surrounding forest is closed to laymen and in contrast to the rigorous rocky peaks and the public throughout the year, except on the ridges. Unlike the precipitous rugged ridges, Buddha’s birthday. In many caves within the wooded trails along valleys are so smooth the compound of this secretive monastery, that they even hardly seem sloped. The se- monks practice extreme asceticism, often rene mountain paths are popular among dat- 9 risking their lives, in pursuit of truth. ing couples, families and trekkers. 6 Special Report 22 | 23

amazing supernatural power. Moreover, man seldom saw birds dying naturally. Hence the belief that there must be extraordinary birds capable of living eternally led to the mythi- cal immortal bird ― phoenix, or the bongh- wang (fenghuang in Chinese).

Interestingly, the immortal bird was config- ured in differently in the East and the West. The phoenix in the West was believed to die and be reborn according to a certain life cy- cle. In the Egyptian mythology, the beautiful fire bird lives in the Arabian desert and when the end of its life nears after some 600 years, the bird builds itself a nest of twigs and then ignites it; the bird and the nest both burn fiercely and are reduced to ashes, from which a young bird is born. With a colorful plum- age and a tail of god and scarlet, the bird en- tices people. It has long been presented as a symbol of rebirth, immortality and renewal.

In contrast, the phoenix of East Asia, also called the Chinese phoenix, is a mysterious bird that never dies. Originally, the males were called bong (feng) and the females hwang (huang). In modern times, however, gender distinction is no longer made and the 1 bonghwang means a single entity, usually with feminine connotations. It is often paired with the dragon, which tend to have male im- Life’s Aspirations and Creative Imagination plications. why the decorative patterns on the works of Animal Symbols in Korean Cultural Heritage fine arts and handicrafts, which modern-day The bonghwang is depicted in various people encounter at museums or in books, shapes. According to Chinese mythology, can offer vital clues to the social and cultural Text by Park Yeong-su | Culture Columnist the bird has the beak of a rooster, the chin of Photos by Cultural Heritage Administration & GoodImage environments in which the ancient cultural a swallow, the neck of a snake, the back of a objects were created. tortoise, the scale of a dragon, and the tail of a fish. It also is said to resemble a rooster in Phoenixes of the East and the West overall body shape, with the head of a snake 1. The phoenix, called Since time immemorial man has expressed wishes were represented by animal motifs. Man has always aspired to glide through the and the tail of a fish. Regardless of the slight- bonghwang, has long been a popular motif in life’s aspirations through animal symbols. The animal symbols were widely applied on sky like a bird. Man envied birds because the ly different depictions of its appearance, the Korean traditional arts and Longevity, wealth, success and noble status, daily objects and artistic creations, forming winged creatures could travel much faster bird is universally regarded as a propitious crafts. and chasing away evil spirits ― these diverse an integral feature of arts and culture. This is and soar much higher, which seemed to be an symbol of high virtue, grace, and luck. Special Report 24 | 25

Symbol of Royal Power and Dignity emblem on the king’s official robe and the human and divine worlds. As deer were of- 3. A ceremonial gown An imaginary sacred bird, the bonghwang palace banners were also decorated with ten considered sacred creatures, the crowns of the queen of the was believed to behave differently than other phoenix designs. with antler-shaped ornaments symbolized Joseon Dynasty. birds. It was presumed to neither peck on liv- the royal authority of kings who were ca- ing worms nor step on the grass as it empha- Actually, the graceful phoenix was more fre- pable of communicating with heaven. sized trust and pursuit of a peaceful world. quently used on personal items of the queen The bird was also expected to appear only and other high-ranking women of the royal Crane Designs on Goryeo Celadon in places and times blessed with happiness family, such as hairpins and fan handles. Fe- From ancient times, the crane was widely and prosperity. As these traits were identified male commoners were allowed to use phoe- favored as a symbol of longevity, nobility with a wise and benevolent king, the mythi- nix designs only on wedding gowns. Women and wisdom. It was therefore a popular mo- cal holy bird naturally came to be used as an of all social classes were thus allowed to en- tif for decoration of celadon pieces for gifts, emblem standing for the king’s regal author- joy the privilege of using phoenix designs, such as bottles, bowls, water droppers and ity. or feeling like a queen endowed with all vir- mirrors. Crane designs evolved with time: tues and blessings, if only on their wedding those on the celadon vessels made during the Two phoenixes are carved on the vertical days. Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392) look energetic granite slab that divides the main staircase and vibrant, with long legs fully stretched. leading to the Hall of Benevolent Gov- Antler-shaped Ornaments of Silla Gold ernance (Injeongjeon), the throne hall in Crowns “Celadon Bottle Inlaid with Cranes and Changdeok Palace in Seoul, one of the five Deer are grass-eating mammals that live in Clouds” (National Treasure No. 68) is one

royal palaces of the Joseon Dynasty (1392– open areas in forests and prairies. They like of the most prized masterpieces of Goryeo 3 1910) and a UNESCO World Heritage site. to eat tender shoots of young grasses or tree celadon. This graceful wine bottle has the The phoenixes mean that the king would bark in the morning and evening, and relax in shape of a plum vase, or maebyeong (meip- Then, why the bluish cranes? The bluish govern his country successfully. The chest scenic places during the afternoon. Though ing in Chinese), which originated from the cranes do not exist in the real world. Ancient generally docile, the male deer, or bucks, Song Dynasty of China. What distinguishes Koreans believed that a crane would attain a become aggressive when nearing a mating this bottle from its Chinese cousins is that it blue plumage when it has lived for a thou- season. They fight one another, using antlers, is embellished with exquisite inlaid patterns. sand years. The bluish cranes embodied a for the opportunity to attract mates. At stake Inlay was an ingenious invention of Goryeo yearning for longevity ― the eternal human is scores of does, so the horn-locking battles potters to adorn their ware by carving out desire to live long in good health. are quite fierce. patterns with a knife on the clay base and 4. A celadon bottle inlaid filling in the recessions with clay in different with clouds and cranes of Ancient people were fascinated by antlers, colors before glazing. the Goryeo Dynasty. It is National Treasure No. 68. as they often had magnificent shapes and also stood for the power of male deer that With a narrow mouth, broad shoulder, and led large herds of females. Naturally, crowns tapered body, the bottle is densely covered with antler-shaped decorations came to be with medallions encircling flying cranes and worn by kings of the ancient Korean states clouds; the cranes inside the circles fly up, of Gaya, Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla. while those outside fly down. The medal- lions symbolize the sun, which in the com- In particular, the gold crowns of Silla (57 pany of clouds stands for good luck. Flying B.C.–A.D. 935) had impressive uprights in up against the sun is a movement represent- 2. A gold crown of the Silla Kingdom is deco- the shape of trees and antlers as well as bird’s ing yang, while flying down amid clouds rated with uprights in the wings, the ancient shamanic motifs symbol- represents yin. The bluish cranes in elegant shapes of tree and antlers. 3 izing the harmony of heaven and earth, and postures signify a peaceful world of immor- It is National Treasure 2 4 No. 87. the king’s role as a messenger between the tals, which only exists in imagination. Photo Gallery 26 | 27

Gyeongju Historic Areas Home of Brilliant Silla Culture

Text & Photos by Graphickorea & Goodimage

Undersea Tomb of King Munmu-wang Photo Gallery 28 | 29

Daeneungwon Tumuli Park

Four capital cities of the ancient kingdoms of Silla and Baekje have been Gyeongju, or more specifically its five “historic areas,” is a UNESCO World designated as historic capitals by the government, in recognition of their out- Heritage site. As the old royal capital of the longest surviving monarchy in standing significance as major political and cultural centers in Korean history. Korean history and the hub of its resplendent Buddhist culture, Gyeongju They are Gyeongju, the capital of Silla through its millennium-long rule from possesses a wealth of historic sites and monuments, which have been well 57 B.C. to A.D. 935; and three capitals of Baekje, that is, Gongju (475–538, preserved. In terms of the density and variety of historic sites, Gyeongju out- then Ungjin), Buyeo (538–660, then Sabi), and Iksan, which is assumed to shines Kyoto and Nara in Japan, which are more globally renowned cultural have been a one-time royal capital, but unverified yet. cities. Photo Gallery 30 | 31

Ruins of Hwangnyongsa Temple

Cheomseongdae Observatory

Stone water channel at the site of Poseokjeong Pavilion Photo Gallery 32 | 33

Anapji Lake Seokguram Grotto Foreigner’s Viewview 34 | 35

the first king of the Joseon Dynasty, chose to center his capital on Gyeongbok Palace on the principles of geomancy. Mt. Bukhansan and Mt. Bugaksan to the north protect the palace from bad luck, and the flow of water from Mt. Inwangsan, though Seochon into Cheongyecheon Stream creates a flow for positive energy. A wall around the city pro- tected it physically and created a symbolic barrier between those who where privileged to live in Seoul and those who were not. 2 2. Retro Chinese restaurant

Sitting next to Gyeongbok Palace and in- what was once a secluded area at the bottom side the city wall, Seochon was destined of Mt. Inwangsan. The king went there twice to be an important place. Unlike Bukchon, a year for ceremonies. which grew in wealth and power because of its strategic location between Gyeongbok The late 19th and early 20th centuries Palace and Changdok Palace, Seochon was brought change to Seochon. The strategic lo- more peripheral to power politics. Instead, it cation made it attractive to outsiders wishing

1 became the home to less powerful court of- to establish a foothold in Korea. In 1898, the ficials and Confucian scholars whole lived American missionary Josephine Eaton Peel in smaller houses. A number of important Campbell founded a school in Pirun-dong cultural figures of the Joseon Dynasty have that became Baewha Women’s University connections with Seochon, including the The campus sits on a hill overlooking the Seochon: Seoul’s Retro Neighborhood most famous of all: King Sejong the Great area and contains several attractive early- who was born in Tongin-dong. Seochon’s 20th century brick buildings. The former Wakes Up to Change auspicious location perhaps explains why residence of missionaries is a rare example the Sajikdan, or Royal Alter to the gods of of a Western-style brick building with a tra- Text & Photos by Robert J. Fouser | An associate professor of teaching Korean as second language at Seoul National University, earth and harvest, is located on the edge of ditional Korean roof. Mr. Fouser has lived in Korea for 10 years and writes frequently about Korean art and culture.

1. Seochon with Mt. Bu- Every big city has a few uniquely vibrant ar- as Hyoja-dong, but it is only one of the 13 gaksan and the Blue House in the background eas that outsiders rarely visit until, of course, districts. In the past couple of years, the area they become “discovered.” In Seoul, the area has been increasingly referred to as Seochon, between Gyeongbok Palace and Mt. Inwang- or West Village, but the name is contrived san is one of the most vibrant and complex and has yet to take firm hold. Most histori- neighborhoods in the city. It is so complex cal maps contain names that start with “seo” that it lacks a clearly identifiable name like (west), thus giving the name some historical its more famous neighbor Bukchon (North legitimacy. Village) on the other side of Gyeongbok Pal- ace. Composed of 13 small administrative Seochon, for lack of another name, has been

districts called “dongs,” no one name will at the center of Korean history since Seoul 3. Traditional house in 3 do. Natives of Seoul often refer to the area became the capital in 1392. Yi Seong-gye, Tongin-dong Foreigner’s view 36 | 37

The Japanese moved into the Seochon in was as if the Joseon Dynasty class distinc- toward preservation also reflected growing 5. Old inn turned into an art their push for dominance over Korea. After tions were updated in the context of colonial criticism of the apartment-only lifestyle in gallery taking control of Korea in 1910, the Japa- capitalism. Korea. nese remodeled Seoul to fit their needs, one of which was symbolic dominance. The During the colonial era, a number of lead- After two years of hearings and often-heated headquarters of the Governor General was ing cultural figures emerged from Seochon. debate, the city announced official plans for moved from the Mt. Namsan area to a new Yi Sang, one of the most experimental po- preserving Seochon in 2010. The plan calls neo-classical building (demolished in 1995 ets during the colonial period grew up in preserving and upgrading the traditional at- as part of ongoing restoration work on the Tongin-dong, and the site will be developed mosphere, which includes 31 designated palace) on the grounds of Gyeongbok Pal- into cultural center in his honor in 2012. cultural relics, while creating new cultural ace in 1926, bringing the Japanese to Seo- Other writers who lived in Seochon include and natural sites. One of the more ambitious chon. The Japanese covered the various Yun Dong-ju and Roh Cheon-myeong, both plans is to revitalize the Ongnyudongcheon streams that flowed from the mountains to famous poets. Yi Jung-seop, one of the early Stream so that it can flow from Mt. Inwang- the Cheongyecheon Stream to make way for leaders of western-style painting in Korea san to Cheongyecheon Stream once more, wider roads and a streetcar that terminated lived here as well. creating a unique urban space. Demolition in Hyoja-dong. They build housing for the of the Sibeom Apartments began in 2010 to Oriental Development Company, the official After the turmoil and suffering of the 1940s make way for a nature park. In 2011, the city 5 company the Japanese used to control land, and 1950s, Seoul began to change as indus- floated the idea of rebuilding King Sejong in Tongeui-dong; Nusang-dong at the foot of trialization produced rapid economic devel- other activities. He wanted to establish a se- the Great’s birthplace as a museum. Mt. Inwangsan was developed into a Japa- opment in the 1960s. The population of the curity perimeter around the Blue House in nese residential area. city grew rapidly as people moved from the response to fears of assassination. The regu- For most of its history, Seochon has been countryside in search of a better life. Roads lations effectively froze Seochon in time un- home to creative expression under the The development of urban Korean-style were widened and new buildings went up. til they were lifted in the late 1990s as part of shadow of power. That quixotic relationship houses, or hanok as they are referred to to- Seochon became home to the Blue House, the ongoing process of democratization. The continues today as young creative-class and day, started in Seochon earlier the Bukchon, the official residence of the Korean presi- only development of any scale during the pe- indie-types move into the area in search of perhaps because Seochon offers better ac- dent, but remained largely residential. riod was the Sibeom Apartments built near what is “lively, diverse, and intense.” They cess to Gwanghwamun. Bukchon had larger Mt. Inwangsan in 1971. A number of small enjoy the eclectic retro atmosphere that jux- houses and became popular with wealthy The history of Seochon took an odd turn in three- and four-story multi-family residences taposes various histories and aesthetics. On Koreans, but Seochon was more affordable the early 1970s as President Park Chung-hee were built in the 1990s, but to a much small- weekends, camera-carrying visitors wander and retained its middle-class character. It set down strict regulations on building and er degree than other parts of Seoul. the area in search of the near past. The city of Seoul’s efforts to preserve and enhance the 4. Hapoom cafe in tra- area will make it a more interesting place to ditional house-Seol Jae A heated debate over preserving traditional Woo houses raged in Bukchon during the 1980s live and visit, hopefully without destroying and 1900s, but the preservationists won the the unique atmosphere. Yet, for all the op- day and Bukchon was saved. Seochon was timism, the shadow of power, not from the largely left out of the debate until 2008 when nearby but from afar still weighs on Seochon the city cancelled plans to redevelop Chebu- as commercial interests seek profits through dong, Nuha-dong, and Pirun-dong, the areas Gangnam-style development. Those who with the highest concentration of traditional care nurturing cultural diversity amid a sense houses. By the late 2000s, galleries and up- of history in Seoul will need to remain vigi- scale coffee shops had begun to move into lant. the Tongeui-dong, and Bukchon stood as an

4 example of successful preservation. The push Foreigner’sOverseas Korean View Cultural 38 | 39

Joseon Painter An Gyeon’s Masterpiece “Dream Journey to the Peach Blossom Land” Text & Photos by the Cultural Heritage Administration

1. “Dream Journey to the Peach Blossom Land” An Gyeon, 1447, Joseon Dynasty, ink and color on silk, 38.7 x 106.5 cm, Central Library of Tenri University, 1 Tenri, Nara Prefecture, Ja- pan

Korean cultural objects scattered in other tional Library of France, which were seized Shangri-La in Our Dreams Stretching a mere 106.5 centimeters horizon- countries amount to some 100,000 items, in 1866 by French troops from the royal ar- A sunny field where peach blossoms are in tally, the scroll painting depicts a legendary according to a 2010 survey conducted by chives of the Joseon Dynasty on Ganghwa bloom, winding streams flow gently, and dream land with a profusion of peach flow- the Cultural Heritage Administration. Japan Island, as well as those objects legally ob- people roam around leisurely… Though far ers and rocky cliffs. No less amazing is that holds the largest number with 61,409 items, tained and taken out of the country before removed from reality around us nowadays, the scroll itself covers 17 meters, carrying followed by the United States with 27,726 and after the 1900s. Numerous Korean cul- these may be scenes of a utopia etched in the complimentary verses written by 22 men, items and the United Kingdom with 3,628 tural objects were looted and smuggled out minds of many people. all contemporaries of the artist and many of items. Thus, over 90 percent of the displaced of the country during turbulent periods of them renowned historical figures, in their cultural assets have been located in Japan war, colonial oppression and post-liberation About 15 years ago, An Gyeon’s painting own hands. and the United States, the top collectors in chaos. Cultural assets can wholly maintain “Dream Journey to the Peach Blossom Land” the two countries identified as the Tokyo their intrinsic value when they remain at (hereafter “Dream Journey”) was shown to An Gyeon, who was active during the reigns National Museum and the Smithsonian In- their places of origin. modern-day Koreans for the first time in an of two early Joseon kings, Sejong (r. 1418– stitution’s Freer Gallery of Art, respectively. exhibition, “National Treasures of the Early 1450) and Munjong (r. 1450–1452), is recog- About half of them, or 54,000 items, are fine This article is about “Dream Journey to the Joseon Period,” held at the Ho-Am Art Gal- nized as one of the three greatest painters of art objects, while the remaining 53,000 items Peach Blossom Land” (Mongyu dowon do), lery in Seoul. The nine-day exhibit drew the Joseon Dynasty, along with Kim Hong- are books and documents. a masterpiece by An Gyeon, a leading paint- endless streams of visitors every day, some do (1745–after 1816) and Jang Seung-eop er in the early Joseon period, which is one of even waiting for over five hours in queue to (1843–1897). An exerted enormous influence Survey on Korean Cultural Objects Abroad the most valuable Korean cultural treasures see the famous painting on its first home visit on the development of landscape painting in These figures comprise plundered objects abroad. after centuries. Korea. He was also adept at portraits, four like the old books and documents at the Na- virtuous plants, and documentary pictures Overseas Korean Cultural 40 | 41

Joseon Prince’s Dream of Peach Or- have been created by An Gyeon. All other chard paintings attributed to An merely exist in re- An Gyeon painted “Dream Journey” in 1447, cords, while the only other extant painting, at the request of Prince Anpyeong (1418– “Eight Scenes of the Four Seasons,” has yet 1453), third son of King Sejong, after hear- to be fully confirmed to be his work. ing the prince describe his dream of travel- ing to a peach orchard. One of the greatest Second, it has a unique and unconventional masterpieces of Korean painting, it depicts composition. In this painting the story un- a peaceful peach orchard and majestic rocky folds along an imperceptible diagonal line peaks in exquisite harmony, creating a lovely from the bottom left-hand corner to the top landscape in seclusion. right-hand corner, while the time-honored custom of Asian paintings progressed in the 4. “Child Dancer” by Kim Hong-do (1745–after The already outstanding historical value opposite direction, from top right to bot- 1816), also one of the of “Dream Journey” is further heightened tom left. Hence, this is a completely differ- 4 three greatest painters of the Joseon Dynasty. by the poetic inscriptions contributed by a ent and unprecedented scheme for its time. string of celebrities. All prominent figures of When the scroll is opened, the viewer is im- Japan since 1893 have been traced through the mid-15th century, the encomium writers mediately drawn to the peach orchard. Then pertinent documents. According to its certifi- include Shin Suk-ju, Bak Paeng-nyeon and the composition draws attention to the bot- cate of ownership, issued in November 1893, Seong Sam-mun, as well as Prince Anpyeo- tom left corner, where the journey begins, the painting was kept by Shimazu Hisashi- ng himself. In the classical artistic jargon, the and from there, mountain paths and streams rushi, which indicates it had been taken out painting thus achieved “triple perfections,” in the real world are followed along the di- of Korea before that time. It was designated that is, excellence in poetry, painting and agonal line toward the right top corner as the Japan’s important fine art object in 1933, and calligraphy. panorama unfolds and the grandeur of the was contained in the Illustrated Register of scenery grows, eventually returning to the Korean Historic Monuments (Joseon gojeok 2 Artistic Value of “Dream Journey” imaginary peach orchard at top right. dobo), published in 1934 by the Japanese “Dream Journey” stands out in the history of government-general. 2. “Eight Scenes of the of royal processions. His painting style had Korean painting for the following reasons: Third, it represents the cultural and ideo- Four Seasons” considerable influence on Japanese ink and logical tendency of the 15th-century Joseon An Gyeon, 15th century, First, it is the only extant painting verified to In 1939, when it was owned by Sonoda Joseon Dynasty, eight-leaf wash paintings of the Muromachi period. society. The painting was inspired by the Jun, “Dream Journey” was named Japan’s album, ink and color on monumental piece of prose “Peach Blossom national treasure. In 1947, amid economic 5. Illustrated Register of silk, 28.5 x 35.2 cm (each Korean Historic Monuments leaf), National Museum In spite of his exalted reputation, “Dream Spring” (Taohua yuan ji), written by ancient hardships after World War II, Sonoda sold (Joseon gojeok dobo), pub- of Korea Journey” is the only authentic painting by Chinese poet Tao Yuanming (365–427), also the painting to Ryusendo, an antique dealer lished in 1934 by the Japa- An Gyeon that survives today. The National known as Tao Qian. This is especially signif- in Tokyo. Tenri University bought it around nese government-general, contains An Gyeon’s paint- Museum of Korea has “Eight Scenes of the icant considering that at its outset the Joseon 1950, and the university’s central library has ing “Dream Journey to the Four Seasons,” which is attributed to An, but Dynasty had adopted Neo-Confucianism as since been its home away from home. Peach Blossom Land.” has yet to be verified to be his work. Several its governing ideology and moral standard. other paintings attributed to An exist only in In spite of the state policy, the ruling elite records. They include “Portrait of Bihaedang pursued more liberal Daoist thoughts and at Age 25” (1442, Bihaedang is Prince An- dualistic ideological values, which served as pyeong’s courtesy name), “Landscape with the background of conceptualized landscape Yi Sa-ma” (1443), “Eight Views of the Xiao paintings. 3. “Couplet of Feathers and Xiang Rivers” (1445), “Eight Horses” and Fir” by Jang Seung- (1446-1447), “Ink Bamboo” (1464), “Full The Long Voyage of “Dream Journey” eop (1848–1897), one of the three greatest painters Moon over the Lin River” (1447), and “Red It remains a mystery how the painting made 3 of the Joseon Dynasty. Cliffs.” its way to Japan, but its movements within 5 42 | 43 Modern Heritage

refers to cultural assets created from the “en- lightenment” period in the late 19th century to the post-liberation years and Korean War in the mid-20th century. These relatively re- cent cultural objects are subject to the “reg- Soyangno Catholic Church in Chuncheon istered cultural property” system, which is Pioneer in Korea’s Modern Church Architecture intended to encourage voluntary registration by the owners to ensure their preservation as Text & Photos by Kim Jung-shin | Professor at Dankook cultural heritage of national significance. University; Member of the Cultural Heritage Committee Modern Christian church buildings in Korea adopted various styles of Western religious architecture, from classical to medieval and eclectic, while few are genuinely “modern” in style. The earliest among a few modern- style church buildings in the country is the Soyangno Catholic Church in Chuncheon.

Construction Background In 1955, when most Koreans were suffering in traumatic poverty in the wake of a three- year internecine war, the laymen of Soyang- no Catholic Church contributed labor instead of cash donations to construct a new church building. The site was on the foot of Mt. Bongeui (301.5 meters), looking over the downtown area of Chuncheon and a scenic lake. Rolling up their sleeves, the believers worked hard. 1

As the church building began to reveal its shape, however, they could not help wonder- 1. Soyangno Catholic Church In the spectrum of Korea’s modern cultural features. This article looks back at a painful ern era in spite of the epochal advancement ing: “Why is it only a half of a circle, though in Chuncheon was built soon after the Korean War heritage, religious architecture stands out in page of modern Korean history, when the of science and industry. A sacred architec- the site is pretty spacious? Why doesn’t it of 1950–1953 ended. terms of historical significance and numeri- nation’s first modern-style Christian church tural space not only functions as a place of even have a single steeple? Has anyone ever cal presence. Seventy-five religious struc- emerged amid the turmoil of territorial divi- worship but also carries strong significance seen a church without a bell tower?” tures built in the modern era are state-desig- sion and bloody internecine conflict. as a symbol of spiritual faith and its propa- nated cultural properties, while 54 others are gation. Naturally, religious architecture is There were enough reasons for the faithful registered as modern cultural properties wor- Modern Cultural Heritage and Reli- characterized by distinct stylistic trends of to whisper their doubts. When they heard thy of special preservation. In the modern gious Architecture individual religious denominations and his- their six-year-old church was to have a new era, Christian churches directly introduced Architectural monuments, especially reli- torical periods. building, they had looked forward to hold- Western architecture in Korea, circumvent- gious structures, account for a great majority ing masses in a splendid house of God with ing Japanese influence, and individual mis- of the cultural heritage of humanity, a phe- Religious buildings fill a remarkable portion a soaring tower. But the new church building sionary groups highlighted different stylistic nomenon that continued well into the mod- of Korea’s modern cultural heritage, which couldn’t look stranger. Modern Heritage 44 | 45

in memory of the Catholic fathers killed by Church, based on a half circle, has the altar at faraway land the endeavor back home in the the communist North Korean troops. The the center of the straight plane, from which a Irish Catholic Church to seek a new trend in churches in Mokho and Samcheok were 300-seat nave radiates. At the midpoint of the church architecture, which became palpable built in the traditional Gothic style, while the circumference are the portal and confession- around the 1960s. church at Soyangno had the unconventional al, with the vestry and nursery at either end. fan shape, which seemed unthinkable at the The brick structure supports a wooden roof A fan-shaped seat arrangement in the nave time. truss, which also radiates in a fan shape from enables the congregation to participate more a vertex in the middle of diameter. While the actively in the celebration of liturgy by draw- The Missionary Society of St. Columban, arched windows and buttressed walls show ing them closer to the altar through audio- founded in Ireland in 1916 and approved by conventional techniques of church architec- visual connection. The idea of simple one- the Vatican in 1918, was initially dedicated ture, the undecorated, bright and functional room plans in church architecture toward 2 to work in East Asian countries. The Colum- interior exposes modern architectural con- this purpose was inspired by the Liturgical bans first arrived in Korea in 1933, and most- cepts. Movement, which was initiated in Germa- 2. The cozy and beautiful Father James Buckley from the Missionary ly served in South Jeolla, Jeju and Gangwon ny and Belgium in the early 20th century. interior of Soyangno Catho- lic Church. Society of St. Columban, the mastermind provinces. They faced severed hardships as Attempts at architectural evolution from Closely associated with the movement of of the building project, wanted a novelty. citizens from an enemy country under the the traditional rectangular ground plans of church reform based on a new theological He opted for a hemispheric structure with a Japanese during World War II, and then at church buildings began in the 1940s in Eu- principle, the idea was officially endorsed at fan-shaped nave spreading out from an al- the hands of North Korean communists dur- rope, and their influence began to appear in the Second Vatican Council in 1962–1965 to tar placed at the center of the straight side. ing the Korean War. Korea in the late 1960s. Father Buckley, who universally encourage new churches to be Compared to typical Gothic-style church was deeply impressed by a spherical church built in this way. buildings, which had a rectangular ground Father Anthony Collier, the first provost at building in Rome, planned a similar circular floor and tall towers, a hemispherical Catho- Soyangno, was among the seven Columban structure resembling early Christian mauso- In this regard, the Soyangno Catholic Church lic church must have seemed anything but fathers martyred in the Korean War. Defy- leums. Due to a hill rising at the back of a occupies a significant place in the history of normal. ing the bishop’s order to withdraw, Father small site, however, he had to be satisfied Christian Church and church architecture. Collier stayed at his church, tending to the with a hemispherical structure. Its architectural value aside, the church is a In particular, most residents of Chuncheon faithful and wounded. On June 27, 1950, two meaningful arena for public education about at the time envisioned a Catholic church that days after the war started, he was fatally shot The first cathedral with such an innovative modern Korean history and the noble spirit would resemble the Jungnim-dong Cathedral, by North Koreans. He was the first Colum- appearance in Korea, the Soyangno Catho- of a foreign missionary, who was martyred a rectangular stone structure with transepts ban priest fallen by the war. lic Church testifies to the strong resolve of while trying to shield his sheep from adver- and a steeple, which was completed in early Columban missionaries to transplant in this sity. 3. Father Anthony Collier, the first provost of Soy- 1950, shortly before the war broke out. As he was dragged to the site of execution, angno Catholic Church, tied up with Kim Gabriel, a deacon and litur- was killed by North Ko- Columban Martyrs in the Korean Con- gical attendant, Father Collier said to Kim, rean troops two days after the Korean War began. flict “Gabriel, you must live as you have wife and Father Buckley and Monsignor Tom Quinlan, children. When they begin shooting at us, fall bishop of the Chuncheon Diocese, intended quickly and then I will fall to cover you.” As the new church to be a monument to Colum- expected, the North Koreans began shooting ban priests who died during the Korean War. without notice. Kim was shot on the neck After the war ended, three new church build- and shoulder but survived, as Father Collier ings were constructed in Gangwon Province fell, holding Kim in his arms. under the jurisdiction of the Chuncheon Dio- 4. Soyangno Catholic Church has a fan-shaped ground cese ― at Soyangno in Chuncheon, Mukho, Church in Modern Architectural Style floor, a landmark change in 3 4 and Seongnae-dong in Samcheok ― each The ground plan of Soyangno Catholic church architecture. 46 |

Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Cultural Heritage Administration, 189 Cheongsa-ro, Seo-gu, Daejeon, Republic of Korea Tel | 82-42-481-4731 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 http://english.cha.go.kr

Published | March 1, 2011

Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea

Publication | Yi Kyung-hoon management Director of International Affairs Division Content | Yeo Sung-hee, Park Jung-eun

coordination Translation | Lee Kyong-hee

Proofreading | Ted Chan

Design ∙ Editing | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd Printed by | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd

Cultural Heritage Administration, 2011

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