C M Y K Spring 2011 Vol. 4 No. 1 Spring 2011 Vol. 4 No. 1 Vol. ISSNISBN 2005-0151 C M Y K Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration Spring 2011 Vol. 4 No. 1 Cover Blue symbolizes spring. The symbolism originates from the traditional “five direc- tional colors” based on the ancient Chinese thought of wuxing, or ohaengohaeng in Korean. The five colors were associated with seasons and other phenomena in nature, including the fate of humans. The cover design fea- tures phoenixes or bonghwang, a popular motif in Korean traditional arts. For more stories about animal symbols, see p. 22. KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website. ( http://english.cha.go.kr ) CHA New Vignettes KoreAN FolK Customs Choe Takes Office as New Administrator Five Colors and Five Flavors: Bibimbap for Global Gourmets Choe Kwang-shik, former director of the National Museum of Korea, was appointed Traditional Korean dishes are characterized by an orchestration of rich colors and new administrator of the Cultural Heritage Administration on February 9. He suc- flavors. They often harmonize the five fundamental colors of blue, white, black, red ceeded Yi Kun-moo, who served as CHA administrator for the past 35 months. In his and yellow, deriving from the East Asian philosophy of the “five phases” (ohaeng, or inaugural address, Mr. Choe emphasized international exchange of cultural heritage, wuxing in Chinese). These colors are associated with the five cardinal directions of social role of cultural heritage, transparent cultural heritage administration and culti- east, west, north, south and center; they are also related with the five basic flavors and vation of specialized human resources. the five viscera in the human body. CHA Marks the 50th Anniversary The five viscera and the six entrails in the human body are believed to have been created with dif- The Cultural Heritage Administration marks this year the 50th anniversary of its foun- ferent energy from different cosmic elements. dation as the Cultural Properties Preservation Bureau at the Ministry of Culture and Therefore, each organ can be vitalized with food Education in 1961. The Cultural Properties Preservation Bureau was promoted to the with a different flavor. Korean dishes embody this Cultural Heritage Administration in 1999. With a view to reflecting on the past half time-honored principle rooted in the Oriental science and philosophy. Bibimbap is one century and presenting future visions, CHA plans to publish “A 50-Year History of of the dishes that represent the principle most palpably. Cultural Heritage Administration.” A mixture of cooked rice and a variety of seasoned vegetables and meat with red chili Dedication of Rebuilt Gate Slated for 2013 sauce, bibimbap is a healthy dish and a full meal in itself, with the ideal 7:3 ratio of vegetables and meat. The toppings are typically made of shredded carrot, squash Three years since a fire destroyed Sungnyemun (South Gate) on February 20, 2008, meat, bellflower roots, fern brake, and fried egg. With these colorful toppings care- shocking and grieving the nation, the reconstruction of the historic gate is currently fully arranged on top of steaming white rice, bibimbap is a pleasure for both the eye proceeding smoothly toward its dedication scheduled for 2013. CHA is making all and the palate. possible efforts to restore the original appearance of the landmark gate and also to recover the walls on both sides, which were removed during the Japanese colonial The assorted toppings have all of the five fundamental colors and five basic flavors. As period. they are all mixed well and eaten together, bibimbap offers a delectable feast of colors and flavors assuring balanced nutrition. Spring 2011 Vol. 4 No. 1 CoNteNts 06 Rediscovery of Korea Palace 26 Photo Gallery Royal Palaces in Seoul Gyeongju Historic Areas Residences of Joseon Kings Home of Brilliant Silla Culture 12 Intangible Heritage 34 Foreigner’s View Heart and Soul for Every Single Stitch Seochon: Seoul’s Retro Neighborhood Wakes Up Quilting Requires Flawless Needlework to Change 16 Natural Heritage 38 Overseas Korean Cultural Assets Bird Pass of Mungyeong Joseon Painter An Gyeon’s Masterpiece Tracking the Ancient Mountain Trail “Dream Journey to the Peach Blossom Land” 22 special report 42 modern Heritage Life’s Aspirations and Creative Imagination Soyangno Catholic Church in Chuncheon Animal Symbols in Korean Cultural Heritage Pioneer in Korea’s Modern Church Architecture rediscovery of Korean Palace 6 |.7 Royal Palaces in Seoul Residences of Joseon Kings Text by Choi Joon-sik | Professor, Graduate School of International Studies, Ewha Womans University Photos by Graphickorea & Goodimage This is the first installment of four-part series on the royal palaces of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) in Seoul, which are living legacies of the history and culture of the Joseon Dynasty. A palace refers to a grand residence of the palace grounds. Of the numerous buildings 1. Gwanghwamun (Gate of Light and Harmony) is the main en- king as well as the seat of government in a in the palace complex, only those where the trance of Gyeongbok Palace. monarchical state. A palace functioned as an king and other top-ranking members of the administrative center and a small city, where royal family lived or used were called jeon. people of various social classes, including Among prominent examples are the throne the royal family members, officials, court hall, Geunjeongjeon (Hall of Diligent Gov- maids and eunuchs, lived and worked. ernance); the king’s bedchamber, Gangnyeo- 2. The rear garden of Jagyeo- ngjeon (Hall of Health and Tranquility); and ngjeon, the queen dowager’s residence in Gyeongbok Pal- Etymology the queen’s bedchamber, Gyotaejeon (Hall ace, has beautiful ornamental In Korea the place where the king resided of Union and Peace). chimneys. and governed was called gung, gunggwol, or gungjeon. These words were used inter- changeably. Precisely speaking, however, each1 word has different connotations. A pal- ace, or gung, was surrounded by walls, gates and observation towers, which were collec- tively called gwol. For example, in Gyeo- ngbok Palace, the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty, the gwol consisted of gates, includ- ing the main entrance, Gwanghwamun (Gate of Light and Harmony); observation towers, including Dongsipjagak (Eastern Obser- 1 2 vation Tower); and the walls enclosing the 8 | 9 rediscovery of Korean Palace for many years after being burnt down, and 5. A map of Seoul as the capital of the Joseon Dy- was recently rebuilt to restore much of its old nasty. shape. Another “palace other than the five royal palaces,” Unhyeon Palace was the resi- dence of Prince Regent Heungseon (1820– 1898), the birth father of King Gojong, who ruled Joseon with an iron fist on behalf of his son during much of his perturbed reign. A unique example of a royal memorial shrine called a palace is Chilgung (Seven Palaces). Located right next to the presidential man- 2. Yangdong Village: The sion, Cheong Wa Dae, and north of the present village developed along several small valleys run- Gyeongbok Palace compound, the shrine me- ning in parallel from its morializes seven concubines of Joseon kings. main guardian mountain at Their sons became reigning kings but these the rear. 5 women were not invested as queens during their lifetime. One of them is the Royal Con- sort Sukbin and Lady Choe (1670–1718), Outer Court and East Palace mother of King Yeongjo. The king held audiences with his subjects of all ranks and hosted banquets for visit- 3 A typical Korean palace complex is divided ing foreign emissaries at pavilions in the largely into the inner court (naejeon) and the outer court. Naturally, the outer court was 3. A general view of Gyeo- Palaces with Different Functions Koreans who have been to Forbidden City the most authentic and dignified quarters in ngbok Palace, the main pal- outer court (oejeon); the former refers to the There are royal palaces in Seoul, the capital in Beijing complain of the “small scale” of ace of the Joseon Dynasty living quarters of the king and the queen, a royal palace. This specific section was sur- (1392–1910). of the Joseon Dynasty, then called Hanyang. their ancestors’ architectural undertakings. where the royal couple resided and met peo- rounded with colonnaded corridors, and the They are Gyeongbok, Changdeok, Chang- However, Gyeongbok Palace in its peak days ple, and the latter to the official areas where square courtyard inside was called jojeong, gyeong, Gyeongun (Deoksu) and Gyeonghui was about half of the Forbidden City in land which was synonymous with “government.” 4. Geunjeongjeon (Hall of Dili- the king held ceremonies and banquets. 6. Chilgung, or the even Pal- gent Governance) is the throne palaces. Hanyang had many palaces, con- area. Add to it the adjacent Changdeok and In Gyeongbok Palace, the “court,” referred ace, is a memoial shrine for hall in Gyeongbok Palace. sidering its rather moderate size. Not a few Changgyeong palaces, and one may see the seven royal concubines of In particular, the queen resided in the deepest to the courtyard surrounding the main throne Korean palaces were not small at all. Then, the Joseon Dynasty, whose hall. sons ascended the throne. combine the land areas of all five palaces, section of the inner court, which was called and it becomes clear that our ancient palaces junggungjeon, or shortened as jungjeon, mean- were not so lamentably small. ing the “middle court.” In Korean period dramas the queen is referred to as jungjeon Temporary residences of kings outside the mama, meaning “Her Majesty of the Mid- capital were also called gung, or more spe- dle Court.” The inner court also includes cifically haenggung, literally the “traveling the king’s office, called pyeonjeon, mean- palace.” There is a temporary palace for ing “side hall,” where the king held cabinet King Jeongjo (r.