LITTLE AND LARGE BOTH THE GIANTS OF THE BEAUTY WORLD AND THE HOTTEST NICHE BRANDS GATHERED TO TALK ABOUT THE TRANSFORMATIONS RESHAPING THE INDUSTRY LANDSCAPE AT THE WWD BEAUTY CEO SUMMIT. PAGES 8 AND 9

WWDFRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Educating Pharrell “When I do a collaboration with brands, I do them with notable masters, so that I can experience the true purpose of collaboration, which is to learn,” said Pharrell Williams in discussing his new fragrance, Girl, created with Comme des Garçons. For more, see page 6.

PHOTO BY BEN WRIGHT

Giannini on Milestones and More WARY TIMES AHEAD round-the-world trip in seven months By LUISA ZARGANI with her fi rst jaunt to Brazil beginning May 27, followed by New York and Milan Retail Headwinds Mount FLORENCE — Frida Giannini will mark in June; Paris in July; Rome and Milan her 10th year as creative director of in September; Tokyo in October; Los Gucci in 2015 — an impressive milestone Angeles and Moscow in November, and in itself for a female designer whose Miami and Paris again in December. After Tough First Quarter name is not the same as the brand’s. As Also, after two-and-a-half years in she has evolved at Gucci, Giannini’s pas- the making, Giannini is gearing up to fi cer. “But it’s hard to distinguish what’s sions and beliefs have been increasingly launch Gucci’s new cosmetics line in By WWD STAFF weather related and what’s not. This channeled into the label, which today September, fronted by a friend of the quarter will be much more of an indica- strongly reflects her stance on sustain- house, Charlotte Casiraghi. “This is a IT’S A FINGERS-CROSSED moment tor” of how eager consumers are to shop. ability, contributions to women’s empow- very ambitious project. Makeup always for retail. “We are looking forward to current erment and education, humanitarian as- creates a trend at every fashion show, The fi rst quarter’s cold winds and weather patterns, but obviously we are sistance and children’s rights. and it’s like an accessory; it completes uncertainties surrounding health-care very disappointed and frustrated with Warming up for her anniversary, a look and it completes our design,” costs might have passed, but they left business results,” he said. “What adds Giannini has a busy 2014 ahead — a SEE PAGE 3 many U.S. merchants with weaker bot- to it is not being able to get a true read tom lines, heavier inventories and plen- to the business.” ty of work to do to make their numbers Hoffman suggested rising fuel costs for the year. Results Thursday from were part of the general consumer Sears Holdings Corp., Gap Inc., The problem. “The biggest learning I’ve had Bon-Ton Stores Inc., Aéropostale Inc. since I’ve been at Bon-Ton is how much and others only showed the steep hill fuel prices specifi cally really impact retailers face in the months ahead. our customer. That’s money out of her And that’s why retailers are gener- pocket. We are starting to anniversary ally setting a cautious tone, while econ- when gas prices peaked last year.” omists see the consumer fundamentals It’s still early for retailers to tweak as solid and getting better. their numbers for the year. For now, “The weather was so severe custom- most are sticking by their annual guid- ers couldn’t get out of the house to go to ance, betting (and hoping) that the rela- the stores,” said Brendan Hoffman, Bon- tive strength shoppers showed at the Ton’s president and chief executive of- SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 WWD.COM Galliano Joins Russia’s L’Etoile THE BRIEFING BOX what looked like fog, so just his silhouette was apparent. IN TODAY’S WWD By JENNIFER WEIL and JENNIFER BARTON Then came a thumping musical refrain of “John is back.” At the end, Galliano attended a photo call. PARIS — John Galliano is now Russian perfumery He has quietly been working as a consultant chain L’Etoile’s creative director. on beauty projects with L’Etoile for the last few The announcement, made Thursday night at an months, his New York-based spokeswoman con- The scene at the Monique Lhuillier event in Moscow, was live-streamed on L’Etoile’s firmed earlier in May. lunch. For more, see WWD.com. Web site under the headline “Future in Beauty.” Galliano’s return to the spotlight was foreshad- Afterward, the company published a press re- owed by L’Etoile’s Web site, whose homepage in lease in Russian saying the designer will create com- mid-May had a faux newspaper headline proclaim- munication and brand images for the chain, plus be ing: “John Is Back!” involved in developing makeup and accessories col- Then earlier Thursday, the site teased the news lections to be part of L’Etoile’s signature cosmetics with the false newspaper headline “19:30 Future in brand, called L’Etoile Selection. Beauty,” referring to when the event In the statement, Galliano called the would start Moscow time. project “a really exciting opportunity Galliano had been keeping a low and challenge for me. I’m sure our col- profile since his stint at Oscar de la laboration working together will lead to Renta ended. In January 2013, Galliano the creation of new and exciting events returned to the world of fashion, when in the world of beauty for Russian de la Renta opened his studio to the de- KEENAN/GETTY LHUILLIER MONIQUE FOR IMAGES STEFANIE women. I believe that the results will be signer for a three-week “residency.” The very beautiful and breathtaking.” two held discussions about Galliano BY PHOTO The L’Etoile event began with a dramat- becoming a permanent part of the de ic film titled “2014 The Beauty Odyssey,” la Renta organization, but those talks which was shown at the end of a long cat- broke off months ago, sources said. Retailers slogged through the first quarter, but economists walk. Early on, it included a brief spot of DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE Galliano was dismissed as creative di- said the outlook is good for the rest of 2014. PAGE 1 the designer enigmatically saying: “Hello, rector from Dior in March 2011 after 15 John Galliano my name’s John Galliano. It’s springtime.” years there, following a series of public

PHOTO BY Frida Giannini, who will mark her 10th year as Gucci’s creative The film, a montage of images meant outbursts during which he uttered racist director in 2015, has a busy schedule ahead. PAGE 1 to represent beauty of tomorrow, was followed by a and anti-Semitic insults in a Paris café. He was also live solo dance performance and music. ousted from the fashion house that bears his name. Zac Posen charmed Savannah College of Art and Design A voice-over said the future of beauty cannot be L’Etoile, which opened in 1997, is the largest PAGE 4 accomplished alone — it needs a visionary, “some- perfumery chain in Russia. It has 900 stores across Atlanta students and fans on Wednesday afternoon. one who knows about beauty, who embodies beau- Russia and Ukraine, which carry 150 prestige brands. ty….Dear friends, I have the great honor and plea- The retailer boasts an offering made of 10,000 fra- Parsons The New School for Design honored standout alum sure to introduce [to] you our new creative director, grance and cosmetics products from labels including Jason Wu and Hugo Boss Thursday night. PAGE 4 the world-acclaimed genius, the future of L’Etoile. Givenchy, Chanel, Sisley, Estée Lauder and Clarins. Here is John Galliano.” Since June 2011, the chain has carried its own Barneys New York’s Daniella Vitale delivered the keynote The designer appeared onstage briefly shrouded in brand of makeup and accessories. address at the LIM College graduation ceremony. PAGE 5

Bobbi Brown gave the commencement speech and received an honorary degree at the Fashion Institute of Technology. PAGE 5 Street Not Moved by Latest Target Fashion Play Pharrell Williams was never going to take the traditional route why consumers go to Target, he said. for his first fragrance, a unisex scent called Girl. PAGE 6 By VICKI M. YOUNG It has long been questioned how much business the designer collaborations at Target have truly Industry leaders and innovative, young indie brands shared WALL STREET wants more from Target Corp. than generated. For every hit like Missoni, there would the spotlight at the WWD Beauty CEO Summit. PAGE 8 be one that was less-than-stellar. Designers gener- designer collaborations. That appears to be the case after the struggling ally are keen because it provides a huge marketing The parties were in full force at the Cannes Film Festival, mass retailer’s shares fell 2.2 percent Thursday to bump for their brands, while for Target it helped PAGE 10 close at $55.99 on the New York Stock Exchange, reinforce its image as hip and cool. including amfAR’s annual Cinema Against AIDS gala. having risen by 1 percent the day before even as “The allure with designer names is that it gives Target reported a 16 percent drop in net earnings Target a marketing handle,” Edelman said. But he Chanel has turned to director Baz Luhrmann to call the shots for the first quarter ended March 31. added that even that “cool” factor marketing ploy for its upcoming Chanel No.5 ad campaign. PAGE 11 Target interim chief executive officer John of “Tarjay” used from the late Eighties and into the Mulligan vowed on Wednesday that the retailer Aughts might be too old to use in the current, more Time Inc. on Thursday revealed plans to relocate its would begin moving faster in making changes to competitive retail landscape. headquarters to Brookfield Place in lower Manhattan. PAGE 11 turn around its operations. But on Thursday, the Walter Loeb of Loeb Associates said, “Designers retailer indicated it was sticking with at least one don’t get customers into the stores at Target. Michael ON WWD.COM strategy it helped pioneer but which now is wide- Graves Home Collection was popular, as was Isaac spread: designer collaborations. Target said it Mizrahi for fashion, but what Target is strong in is FASHION: Monique Lhuillier hosted an event at her Melrose would launch an Altuzarra capsule collection by midtier fashion brands, such as Mossimo, Liz Lange Place boutique in Los Angeles on Tuesday to showcase designer Joseph Altuzarra. Maternity and C9 by Champion. The high-end fash- her pre-fall collection and unveil her new summer window But analysts said that, while no reflection on ion names are just frosting on the cake. It’s real busi- displays. For more, see WWD.com. Altuzarra, designer collaborations are far from ness is in the consumables category.” likely to fix what is truly ailing the discounter. Both the Michael Graves line beginning in 1997 CLARIFICATION “Target lost its way in the U.S. They’ll regain and Isaac Mizrahi in 2002 were products of soft their way, but it won’t be a function of snazzy de- goods marketing concepts under former chairman Ryan Lochte and Ireland Baldwin are the faces of Calvin Klein white signers,” said Jeff Edelman, director of retail and and ceo Bob Ulrich. While those lines were popu- label for the Macy’s American Icons campaign for spring. That consumer advisory services at RSM McGladrey Inc. lar at Target, industry sources believed the collec- information was unclear in a story on page 7, Thursday. According to Edelman, Target still has a strong tions, financially, just hit the “break-even” mark. franchise, but it needs to get shoppers back into the Both lines ended during the tenure of chairman FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA stores buying consumables. “Good fashion at rea- and ceo Gregg Steinhafel, who was ousted earlier @ WWD.com/social sonable prices” helps, but that’s not the key reason this month as a result of the retailer’s missteps. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 207, NO. 105. FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014. 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WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 3 WWD.COM Giannini on Milestones, Rumors and More {Continued from page one} Frida Remarking on the connection between the industry with runway shows or the said Giannini, who was clad in a black Giannini Gucci’s equestrian history, her own passion “endless complaining.” top and pants and black closed-toe san- for riding (she keeps her horse, Bientôt, in “We are all very much privileged, it’s dals with golden spikes on the vamp, dur- Sabaudia, near Rome) and today’s associa- a beautiful industry, and it opens us up ing an interview at the Gucci Museo here tion with the sport, its fashion and symbols, to so many different things, it should be — a project which she spearheaded. Giannini sees everything coming full circle. respected and appreciated.” The designer juggles more than 10 col- She does not believe anything happens by Nor does the designer buy into the gos- lections a year for one of the biggest fash- chance. “Ever since I decided to be a de- sip the industry seems to generate faster ion groups in the world, as well as her new signer, my dream was always to work for than new seasons come and go. Asked to life as a mother, and her other tasks as a Gucci. I grew up in the Sixties as the brand address persistent rumors that Giannini cofounder of Chime for Change, which was booming, but of course I would never would exit Gucci and be succeeded by raises funds and awareness for girls’ and have imagined I would one day be its cre- the likes of Riccardo Tisci or Joseph women’s education, health and justice, and ative director,” she said in her fast-paced Altuzarra, she calmly responded: “These as a UNICEF collaborator. While the pres- manner. “The first thing I asked Tom [Ford] rumors are self-generated, and even en- sure of the industry and exacting sched- was to visit the archives. I was passionate gaged François-Henri Pinault, who came ules have left their mark on a number of and fascinated by the idea. These are two to Rome and told me they were not true. Giannini’s peers, the designer heeds the passions that went hand-in-hand.” Actually, he was concerned that the ru- strictest organization to keep up. While discussing her own interest in mors would not let me work serenely.” “I scientifically plan and organize, and history, and enthusing about Gucci’s ar- She also noted she has just renewed I am always punctual,” said Giannini, who chives that could spur “billions of new her contract. “We don’t want to [officially] friends call “the Roman Swiss” because collections” and that reflect the history deny such absurd rumors stemming from she combines Helvetic precision with a of Italy, Giannini said she is also aware of nothing. It would be stupid. There is good southern friendly and easy disposition. the pitfalls of looking back. “The brand’s harmony, although we know it’s a delicate That said, the designer admits she some- archives are fundamental. I am instinc- moment for the markets,” said Giannini. times asks herself how she does it. “You tive, almost animal-like in identifying the Pressed to find a reason for such on- do feel the pressure and you always have objects that can be made contemporary — going speculation, after thinking about it to find new resources within yourself, but not all of them can — and I fall in love with for a moment, she wondered if it had to I know I am privileged to be working in them, but, at the same time, talking about do with her fairly “normal” life outside this industry and for a company that re- the archives too much sometimes leads fashion. She said “perhaps this normality spects its employees and protects them,” people to think you lack in creativity.” and the fact that my partner [di Marco] said Giannini, who credits her staff of 80 Looking back at her first 10 years at works with me is annoying to some,” as PHOTO BY AMY GRAVES PHOTO BY — between tailors, seamstresses and tech- Gucci, and “drawing her conclusions,” well as her longevity at the brand. nical professionals — and her daughter played at a dedicated space at the mall Giannini said they “flew by.” In her level-headed and practical way, Greta, now 14 months old, for her bouts of for about a month. “This is the museum’s “I don’t disavow anything,” she relat- the designer added: “If you ask me if I fresh energy. “She is my antistress, my joy first proper traveling exhibition,” said ed. “You do so many things, some better, will be here at 60, I would say no. I think and she makes everything good,” she said, Giannini. “Only a few small objects had some not as well. I went through different that at a certain point there must be a her hazel eyes brightening. She confesses been shown in Korea and Japan.” organizations, managements and dynam- change and you have to make room for that she had always felt “a piece was miss- On May 30, she will travel to Rio de ics. Now, with my 10-year maturity, I think the new and younger generations.” ing,” before the baby. Janeiro for a conversation with students I have identified the strategy, the path to No matter, in the meantime Giannini Giannini mentions Greta, whose father at the Museu de Arte do Rio. “Brazil is follow, synthesizing, experimenting and is mapping out her more immediate is Gucci president and chief executive of- still an important market, where custom- channeling all the information that can plans. In October, she will be in Tokyo to ficer Patrizio di Marco, several times dur- ers are looking for precious materials. bring the brand to that level of sophisti- host a dinner for Gucci Japan’s 50th an- ing the interview. Case in point: Giannini They have special requests for exclusive cation and elegance, with a bourgeois ele- niversary in honor of UNESCO and in hopes to return to Malawi, where Gucci objects, evening gowns and special or- ment, that is expected. Although it is a big November she will chair the Los Angeles has been supporting UNICEF on several ders as they have an intense social life, brand, it should be even more exclusive.” County Museum of Art Gala dinner in Los projects, possibly with her daughter, as made to order for men, and Premiere Giannini and di Marco have priori- Angeles with Leonardo di Caprio and Eva a formative experience. Also, speaking pieces for women,” she said. tized qual’’ ity, the importance of Made in Chow. That same month, she will host a of the restoration of movies with Martin Giannini said the couture Premiere Italy production, checking the network of dinner in Moscow to celebrate the open- Scorsese’s The Film Foundation, she line started as a service out of a small suppliers, verifying the choice of crafts- ing of the brand’s flagship store in the city pointed to the value of “La Dolce Vita” or atelier in Rome, and, while still “not a manship “so that all the processes are and in December she will fly to Miami for “Il Gattopardo” and how she would hate business area, rather more about image done only by the best hands and people. the International New York Times Luxury for her daughter and future generations and a courtesy to our ambassadors, if we It’s about the culture,” she said. conference, where she will be a keynote to miss enjoying such works of art. get well-organized, we will develop it Gucci has been feeling the financial speaker with Pinault. Gucci will support Her pregnancy also comes up when the more — it’s new territory.” pinch of further raising the level of the the Kris Knight exhibition at Miami Art designer expresses regrets that rumors She also admitted to her dream proj- brand and phasing out canvas in favor of Basel. A few days later, she will be in were circulating about her displeasure ect, “a home line — sooner or later,” leather — the brand’s sales fell 5.5 per- Paris to attend the sixth edition of the with Christina Voros’ documentary “The given her passion for interiors and fur- cent in the fourth quarter of last year, Gucci Masters equestrian tournament. Director: An Evolution in Three Acts,” niture. A first step was Gucci’s acquisi- and rose only 0.2 percent at constant On June 3, Giannini will host a cock- which was produced by another Gucci tion of Italy’s historic luxury tableware currency rates — but Giannini continues tail party at the renovated Gucci Fifth friend, James Franco. It was claimed she and ceramics firm Richard Ginori 1735 to believe in the strength of its historic Avenue store to celebrate the first an- did not want to be in the spotlight, since SpA last year. Rescued from bankruptcy, logo. “Yes, there’s been an overexposure niversary of Chime for Change. “Last she was followed by the film crew for Gucci first has to restart the com- year it was a fantastic concert about 18 months beginning in 2011. pany, stressed Giannini. [in London], the initial moment “‘The Director’ was a fun experience, On June 3, the designer will to shout out the project. It has I had given my word to do it but filming present Gucci’s cruise collection Ever since I decided to be captured the world’s attention, started at a time of personal pain, so I had in New York, and, on the following also of those who are not inter- the cameras aiming at me when I didn’t day, will host a dinner in honor of a designer, my dream was ested in fashion, as you don’t feel my best and I don’t like to watch my- Casiraghi, a fellow equestrian. have to pass from Gucci [to con- self again for this reason,” she said. “The relationship with Charlotte tribute],” she said. “I am very happy with the results, was born spontaneously — we always to work for Gucci. A new advertising campaign there is a sense of irony and it shows how met in Rome during a competi- — FRIDA GIANNINI, GUCCI portraying Giannini and cofound- I work with my team. It has nothing to do tion, she wanted a new jacket ers Salma Hayek Pinault and with being unavailable, I just didn’t feel that would not be too technical, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter will ap- at ease, and I feel bad now when I see that had character and was more pear in the July and August issues myself back then as I was going through luxurious,” explained Giannini. “I know of the logo, but it should not be forfeited. of Hearst Magazines. Also, the organization a very difficult period personally,” the fitting needs of a rider and we started It’s very important: A logo is telling of has partnered with Kellogg’s Special K Giannini added, referring to the discov- this big conversation on horse riding,” the identity of the brand, and you don’t brand aimed at reaching 25 million house- ery just before the filming that she had she said with a laugh. Musing on the invent it, but it depends on how you treat holds starting Oct. 25, and with P&G through a tumor. The silver lining was that the reasons for Casiraghi also fronting four it. There are companies that would do the Gucci fragrance license. To date, Chime successful treatments led her to health Forever Now ad campaigns, Giannini anything to have a strong logo,” she said. for Change has raised $4.8 million to fully and motherhood. (Shown at the Tribeca described the princess as “young and For the upcoming cruise collection, she fund 310 projects. It is also supporting Film Festival in April for the first time, sophisticated, she is an icon and comes said she is working on finding the right the Bring Back Our Girls campaign with a Giannini and Franco will premiere “The from a fairy-tale family.” balance between fabrics and leather, each Catapult fund-raising platform dedicated Director” during the Rome Film Festival Gucci has strong connections with “raising the level of the another. Gucci was to Nigeria. Giannini reiterated that Gucci on Sept. 3, and the movie will open in Casiraghi’s grandmother, Grace Kelly, born with leather, and this is an important never wanted a commercial return with cinemas in Italy on Sept. 8.) for whom the Flora scarf was designed. challenge and very interesting,” she said, Chime for Change. Even her trip to Brazil stirs mention “Charlotte knows what she wants, and she noting that among the best-selling bags “We are investing more time and of her pregnancy. The trip has been in did not want a pure endorsement, and for are the bamboo shopper, the SoHo a’’nd the resources in activities we believe in. the making for two years, but was de- us it’s important to have a real woman Nice. “The average price is very high, but Obviously, without the company’s support layed by the pregnancy. The designer with a story and not only a model.” customers choose these items.” none of this would exist. François-Henri will travel to São Paulo on May 27, where Following the men’s show in Milan on The designer also does not see fashion Pinault is very sensitive to all this and Carlos Jereissati Filho, chairman and June 23, the designer will be in Paris in shows going away anytime soon. “They he is the first to motivate you and ask for ceo of Iguatemi Group, will host a din- July during couture week for the Gucci are fundamental. The magic, the vision, suggestions,” she said. Through Gucci’s ner in her honor and in the presence of Gold Cup at the first Eiffel Jumping, part the dream can’t be replaced and it’s partnership with UNICEF, which spans Kering chairman and ceo François-Henri of the Global Champions Tour show-jump- hardly replicable in a showroom, it adds almost a decade, the company has raised Pinault at the JK Iguatemi Mall. Iconic ing circuit, and to host a Vogue Fashion salt to the dish.” Giannini said she did $18 million. “It’s a drop in the ocean, but pieces from the Gucci Museo will be dis- Fund gala dinner at the Musée Galliera. not understand the general weariness of it’s now part of my job to give back.” 4 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014

ning. The designer spoke for about an It has a serious impact on the business. hour to a packed room, and was honest, People order multiple times. My first Zac Posen Talks open and sometimes self-effacing. When was Natalie Portman, and we had two or asked how he got into fashion, he an- three reorders on that dress.” swered, “I didn’t know what I was doing. He told how, when he first showed To SCAD Atlanta I was inventing as I went along.” his line in Paris for spring 2011, he had Perhaps, but his talent emerged mixed reviews. “WWD destroyed me. It early. He started his first internship with was really hard. We were going through Nicole Miller while he was a sophomore a challenging time in the company, so I in high school at St. Ann’s School in stepped back for a year and looked at Brooklyn, and at 16 enrolled in the pre- what I was doing.” graduate program at Parsons School of Now his business is diverse with his Design. He recalled how he did whatever Zac Posen Collection, Zac Posen for was needed at Nicole Miller but mostly Target (in Australia), Truly Zac Posen “would sketch all day,” Posen said. “She (for David’s Bridal) and Zac Zac Posen. thought I was out of my mind.” He’s also a judge on After attending the Central FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE “Project Runway,” which Saint Martins College of Art he said gives designers and Design in London, he re- WWD.com/ the opportunity to show turned to New York in 2001 after fashion-news. who they are to people 9/11. He set up his business on in 20 countries. “In 2014, $10,000 and lived in his parents’ you have to be on every living room. “But then it was time to take platform,” he noted. “ Yo u have to un- Posen on stage speaking to SCAD students. an investment, and I found one day, on derstand the best way to be yourself and the red carpet, Puff Daddy. I asked him sell your component.” to make music for a show of mine. He Answering one student’s question started, his challenges and other facets took me under his wing and invested in about the business, he said, “It’s still By BRENDA LLOYD of his fashion life in an interview with the company. He’s been incredibly sup- hard every day but that’s life. You’ll WWD senior fashion features editor portive and generous. never be rich enough or famous enough ATLANTA — Zac Posen charmed Jessica Iredale. “I never design with the red carpet in or a good enough writer, and then you Savannah College of Art and Design Posen was in town as honorary chair mind,” he went on, “but my love of the need to come to a place where it’s not Atlanta students and fans on Wednesday for the SCAD Seen Gala scholarship red carpet is my love of being around perfect. Yo u have to have a vision and afternoon as he talked about how he got fund-raising event, held Wednesday eve- other creative people, including actors. keep working toward that.” Jason Wu Honored at Parsons Event

By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG and MARC KARIMZADEH

PARSONS THE New School for Design hosted a banner night Thursday, honoring standout alum Jason Wu and Hugo Boss, staging a LED-enhanced stu- dent fashion show in its new futuristic University Center and raising $1.2 million for scholar- ships in the process. If that weren’t enough to leave dean of the school of fashion Simon Collins grin- ning and snapping selfies with numerous guests, Hugo Boss’ Gerd von Podewils revealed the company’s $250,000 gift for scholarships. After receiving his award, Jason Wu Donna Karan Wu said, “This really means a full circle for me. I came to New York 12 years ago to come to apply to other schools but I said creativity and point of view. “I Parsons. I only applied to one no. To stand here in this new am so proud of what the school school. My mom wanted me to building some 12 years later has become. I mean the clothes being honored onstage is kind are superb,” Karan said. “It’s of amazing. I kind of can’t be- beyond the high tech. The Mijia Zhang lieve it myself.” level of artistry, creativity and Having told students ear- of going to a new place. When A look from lier that now is a very exciting we were designing, you were Victoria time to be in New York, Wu said, held. Now I feel as though they A look from Hayes, “New York is kind of the young- got opened up and said, ‘Let Simon Li, women's

ster in the scheme of fashion, me live.’” men's wear wear JOHN AQUINO AND STEVE EICHNER especially when you speak of Earlier in the day, the gradu- designer designer of the four major fashion cities — ating designers had a dress re- of the year. the year.

New York, London, Milan and hearsal with the Parsons B.F.A. PHOTOS BY Paris. New York has come a long Fashion show. The runway pre- way. It’s a really great moment. sentation showcased selections sure you have a point of view. smoking in the staircase. I was I think people look at New York from the designers’ collections, Always define yourself before hoping my mom wasn’t going to not only as a really great fashion demonstrating the diverse sar- others define you.” pay attention to this.” To make city for business but also for cre- torial aesthetics the school Benz recalled his journey matters worse, the two got stuck ativity and talent — new talent.” churns out each year — from from Seattle to Parsons, which in the freight elevator. “She Parsons honored its top tal- children’s wear with a street started when Karan came to his burst into tears and said, ‘Are ent, namely women’s wear vibe to romantic hometown to stage a you sure that’s the school you designer of the year Victoria tailored looks, as FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE fashion show. Benz want to go to?’” Hayes, men’s wear designer well as colorfully approached the de- Things have advanced con- of the year Simon Li and chil- cut oversize furs by WWD.com/ signer. “I said, ‘Donna, siderably. Parsons executive dren’s wear designer of the year Mijia Zhang. The fashion-news. I really want to work dean Joel Towers unveiled a Ashley Yoon Chang. run-through came in fashion, where do research partnership with Ford While greeting a crowd that replete with sev- you think I should Motor Co. involving a new design included Anna Sui, Chris Benz, eral speakers, including Milk go to school?’ And she said, lab at the school. One of its first Tracy Reese, Vince Camuto, Studios cofounder and cre- ‘Obviously, you can only go to projects will focus on the Ford Natalie Joos, Genevieve Jones ative director Mazdack Rassi, Parsons.’” When he visited New Mustang. “Our work…will be to and Yeohlee Teng, among oth- who reminded the crowd that York with his mother, the school challenge assumptions, to inno- ers, Donna Karan also stopped New York City is “the great- looked considerably different vate and explore material op- to talk about the next genera- est mentor you can have. The from its shiny new digs. portunities to draw on the iconic tion of designers. Active in the streets we walk in.…We walk in “I am just going to say it — and the new,” Towers said. “We school’s graduate program, she footsteps of giants, like Warhol it was kind of a dump,” Benz will bring fashion, technology said she was “blown away” by and Basquiat and Calvin.” His recalled. “Raw classrooms, and Mustang together to do what the students’ level of quality, advice to the students: “Make people were crying, there was we do here so well.” WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 5 WWD.COM FIT Honors Brown, Louboutin Flipkart Buys Myntra

emeritus of FIT and was director of its foundation from By LISA LOCKWOOD and LAUREN MCCARTHY 1976 to 2010. He served more than 10 years as chair- In Indian E-tail Deal man. In 1984, Pomerantz and his wife, Laura, donated NEW YORK — “I might have to streak, to compare $1 million to help launch FIT’s $5 million development with David [Hamilton], who I think stole the show,” campaign. In recognition, FIT named its Art and Design By MAYU SAINI said Bobbi Brown, chief executive officer and chief Center (also known as the D building) in honor of his creative officer of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, who gave father, Fred P. Pomerantz, founder of Leslie Fay. NEW DELHI — JD.com and Alibaba may be dominat- the commencement speech and received an honor- Pomerantz said his father, Fred, never had the privi- ing global financial headlines, but the e-commerce ary degree of Doctor of Human Letters at the Fashion lege of an education past the sixth grade and told him action also is heating up in the world’s second-most- Institute of Technology Thursday. about “this wonderful school, where all the graduating populous country. Brown was referring to student government presi- students got jobs in the industry.” On Thursday, Flipkart, India’s largest online retailer, dent Hamilton, who spoke about establishing the first He said he has watched FIT evolve “into this won- acquired fashion and apparel e-tailer Myntra for an un- FIT class gift and challenged the class to value people derful worldwide institution under the leadership of disclosed amount. Myntra in the past has been valued at and passion over their paychecks. He then read a pas- Dr. Joyce Brown. Fashion, more than most industries, more than $370 million, while Flipkart has been valued sage from “The Alchemist,” by Paulo Coelho, and said: thrives on innovation and talent, and these two attri- at more than $1 billion. “Fatima, will you help me make my dreams meaningful butes, combined with the guiding hand of the many Myntra has been one of the fastest-growing e- for the rest of my life?” and hopped off the stage and gifted teachers here, have ushered many creative commerce companies in India, focusing on apparel. proposed to his girlfriend, Binta Diallo, in the audi- minds and talent within our industry.” Flipkart, which started out as an online bookseller, ence. The crowd went wild, and she said “Yes.” Pomerantz offered up this advice to the graduating has been trying to grow its fashion segment, which it Talk about a memorable graduation. seniors. “As you succeed in your careers, remember to launched two years ago. The company passed the $1 bil- Brown, whose beauty brand today is worth more be supportive of this wonderful school.” lion valuation mark in March, a year ahead of its own than $1 billion and is a division of the Estée Lauder Four thousand students were awarded associate, projected timeline of 2015. Cos. Inc, offered the graduates her five pillars for suc- bachelor’s and master’s degrees Thursday. Analysts said the Myntra acquisition also is aimed cess. They are: Do what you love; more doing and less Later that afternoon, students from the School of Art at competing better against Amazon, which has grown and Design and School rapidly since it entered the Indian market last year. of Graduate Studies “Flipkart and Myntra are getting together to create gathered for their own one of the largest e-commerce stories and together we commencement, with will dominate the market,” Sachin Bansal, cofounder Christian Louboutin as and chief operating officer of Flipkart, said Thursday. keynote speaker. The “Fashion is a category of the future. This acquisition shoe designer chose a will help us become leaders in this category,” he said, pair of gilded slippers adding that Flipkart would invest $100 million in its of his own design as his fashion business in the near term. footwear for the occa- While analysts have been predicting that Flipkart sion. “I’ve been trying might change Myntra’s name and combine offices, to figure out a shoe to go Bansal dismissed the prospect. Myntra will remain a with this dress,” he told separate entity and its chief operating officer Mukesh WWD, gesturing toward Bansal, who is not related, will head the fashion busi- his ceremonial robe. “I ness at Flipkart and be on the board. STEVE EICHNER wanted something gold “I’m here for the long haul and we will continue John Pomerantz and Christian because it’s good luck.” to grow in the market. It was very essential to keep Bobbi Brown at FIT. Louboutin Louboutin opened Myntra a separate entity and preserve its culture,” PHOTOS BY his speech to the stu- said Mukesh Bansal. thinking; work hard, but smart; have no fear, and just dents with a pair of apologies. “I’m French, so I have to The two biggest fashion e-commerce companies — be nice. She told the graduates they shouldn’t take ‘no’ apologize for my pitiful English,” he said. “It’s a very Myntra and Jabong — changed the way online apparel for an answer, and shouldn’t be intimidated by adults, difficult exercise for me to be here, because I’m pain- sales were perceived by making their first alliances “because you are adults now.” fully shy... But when they asked, I had to do it.” with two of the premier fashion weeks in the country. Brown, who in addition to running her cosmetics He went on to name two important pillars for suc- Jabong made an exclusive partnership with Lakmé company is a best-selling author and editor in chief cess: friendship and freedom. “Everyone told me never Fashion Week held in Mumbai in March, and Myntra of Yahoo Beauty, then gave the grads some practical to do business with friends,” he said. “Well, I started my tied up with the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, tips: Take care of your health; exercise; wear your seat company with my two best friends and 23 years later, we also in March, in collaboration with the Fashion Design belt; don’t drink and drive; keep your Instagram and are still the three best friends.” Freedom, he continued, Council of India. Facebook clean; be thankful every day, don’t forget to was more of a subjective topic. “There is the freedom of As analysts deliberated about what Flipkart’s acqui- have fun and kiss your parents. joy and working, which I want,” he said. “But freedom sition of Myntra would mean for the fashion space, there John J. Pomerantz, former chairman and ceo of Leslie is different for everyone…. It’s freedom of creativity.” were mixed reactions. “Bottom line, it may be good news Fay Co., who is president of JJP Advisory, was awarded Louboutin paused to survey the audience. “I just for investors and founders but bad news for consum- the President’s Lifetime Achievement Award. Joyce F. saw one grandma start sleeping,” he joked. “That’s not ers and the fashion industry at large,” said Harminder Brown, president of FIT, said the college rarely bestows nice.” Amidst the roar of laughter, he launched into his Sahni, managing director of retail consulting firm Wazir this award, but Pomerantz “more than richly” deserved it. final thought. “Do not necessarily pursue a very spe- Advisors. “Had Myntra stayed independent, it could “He’s a part of our DNA,” she said. She said cific goal,” he said. “Be gentle. Enjoy the process.” have become as large as Asos. This consolidation will Pomerantz has brought a lifetime of loyalty, passion and The designer was later presented with a honorary doc- force other fashion retailers to junk their fashion-only service to FIT. Through his Golf Classic alone, he has torate of fine arts. The designer already had plans for his focus and they will end up adding other categories or raised more than $2 million for the college over the years. new certificate. “It has to go with me to Paris,” he said. will merge with multicategory retailers.” Pomerantz, a trustee for 28 years, is now trustee “But I might Xerox it so I can keep one in New York.” Other observers believe the combined platform will only open more doors to e-tailing. Myntra’s founders, Mukesh Bansal and Ashutosh Lawania, are upbeat about market prospects, given that Myntra already makes an estimated 20,000 shipments a day across Vitale Returns to LIM for Commencement 400 cities with both branded products and its own pri- vate-label brands — like Dressberry. Myntra recently school and faculty at LIM helped me Thursday’s event marked LIM’s launched a plus-size segment and has plans to open By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG to realize very early on that a strong 75th commencement address. LIM brick-and-mortar stores by next year. work ethic, discipline and consisten- College president Elizabeth Marcuse India’s e-commerce market grew 88 percent in 2013, YEARS AFTER Barneys New cy matter. Don’t let anyone tell you received an honorary doctorate from to $16 billion, according to a survey by Associated York’s Daniella Vitale skipped her otherwise,” she said. “As difficult as her father Adrian, who is LIM’s Chambers of Commerce and Industry. There are an es- own commencement ceremony from this sounds, and regardless of how president emeritus and former LIM timated 200 million Internet users in the country, with LIM College, she delivered the key- bad the job is, and there will be a few president. Neiman Marcus’ execu- an estimated 89 million exploring online shopping. note address Thursday for this bad ones, try to think of everything tive vice president of specialty retail The survey noted online shopping was highest in year’s graduates from the school. as an opportunity. There is always stores, Neva Hall, was honored with Mumbai, followed by New Delhi and Kolkata. The executive said she consid- something to learn. There is always the first Maxwell F. Marcuse award. But the competition in e-commerce is heating up. ered the opportunity to be “a gift,” someone to meet. There is always Elizabeth Marcuse reminded Snapdeal, another e-tailer, raised $100 million in but she did have a few reserva- one person who actually may take graduates of fashion’s ever-expand- funding on Wednesday. Snapdeal now is also valued at tions. Reminding graduates of the the time to make the difference to ing reach. “The word ‘fashion’ may $1 billion, the fourth Indian e-tailer to hit that level. recent protests against various help you along the way.” have once brought clothing and Snapdeal, which has 500 product categories and 25 commencement speakers, Vitale Barneys’ chief operating officer accessories to mind, but in our in- million registered shoppers, has grown 600 percent in the kidded, “I was very concerned that and senior executive vice president creasingly design-conscious world, last 12 months, according to its founder and chief execu- something would come up about urged graduates to endure their fashion is everywhere. Fashion is tive officer Kunal Bahl. The company raised $340 million my background in New York City first jobs with vigor, insisting that at- no longer just a look. It is a life- in funding in February, led by eBay. In a previous round, but the only thing that came up was titude will serve them well. She also style. We find it in the products we eBay had invested close to $50 million in Snapdeal, re- very bad hair in 1986.” offered, “Please, please enjoy what buy for our homes, the cars that we portedly getting access to the site’s 20 million registered Like this year’s outgoing seniors, you do. Have fun and laugh along buy, the electronic devices that we users, logistics software and distribution network. Vitale recalled how she was encour- the way because people underesti- carry around and the sports and Snapdeal, like eBay and China’s Alibaba, operates aged to take advantage of the intern- mate the power of humor and how entertainment that we enjoy,” she as an online retail marketplace, offering a platform for ships and jobs that New York has to that shapes a career. I know that my said. “Understanding customers’ individual buyers and sellers to make their transac- offer — selling cosmetics at the now- success has also been being able to aspirations and how they make tions. This has been the only mode of functioning for defunct B. Altman and working back- laugh at many situations over my purchasing decisions and forging global e-tailers in India as foreign direct investment stage at many fashion shows before tenure in this industry.” connections with those customers in the e-commerce space has not been allowed by the becoming an assistant buyer. “The Attended by 60 years of alumni, is now more important than ever.” Indian government. 6 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 beauty WWD.COM A New Girl for Pharrell Williams He’s done eyewear and down jackets By SAMANTHA CONTI for Moncler; fine jewelry and sunglasses for Louis Vuitton, and has unveiled an LONDON — Pharrell Williams, whose environmentally friendly denim collabo- neck is draped with “remade” Chanel ration between G-Star Raw and Bionic pearls and jewels, and who admits to wear- Yarn, where Williams is creative director. ing “some women’s things, too,” was never Earlier this year, he unveiled collabora- going to take the traditional route for his tions with Adidas and the apparel com- first fragrance, a unisex scent called Girl. pany Peace Love World. “There should be no lines — I learned Next week, an exhibition curated that from Comme des Garçons,” said by Williams called “Girl” will open at Williams during an interview in a sparse Emmanuel Perrotin’s new space in Paris, and sunny conference room at Dover the Salle de Bal. It will showcase 40 Street Market’s offices here. “Hence, Girl works by mostly female artists including — for girls and boys. We just found an- Marina Abramovic, Sophie Calle, Cindy other way to say unisex,” added Williams, Sherman and Tracey Emin. The showcase whose scent, a collaboration with Comme opens May 27 and runs through June 25. des Garçons Parfum SA, will launch in Asked why he embarked on a fra- London on Sept. 1. grance partnership in particular, Williams The 41-year-old Williams’ thinking offered a philosophical response: “For wasn’t always avant-garde — at least in each of our senses there’s an art form: the field of fragrance. The multitalented For ears there’s music, for your eyes musician and serial collaborator, who re- there’s art, for your nose there’s fra- leased his sophomore album earlier this grance, for your taste there is the culinary year, also called “Girl,” said he started art, for feeling I say there is love.” his fragrance journey with Polo by Ralph He chose Comme des Garçons after

Lauren, the mainstay of the young and spending some time getting to know the aspirational American male. designer Rei Kawakubo and her husband “The basic Polo fragrance when I was Joffe, sitting front row at the shows and young was kinda cool to me,” he said. wearing the clothes. (He met Kawakubo and “And then I had this weird thing with Joffe through Ronnie Cooke Newhouse, cre- [Christian Dior’s] Fahrenheit, because it ative director of House + Holme).

was just so different, and it stood out — Williams described the Comme fash- juxtaposed to the rest of the fragrances. ion shows as “these vortexes of no rules, And then I didn’t wear fragrances for very ‘Twilight Zone,’ but in the coolest about, maybe 15 years.” way ever. I was blown away by it. Just The experience that finally turned being invited into that world.” him was bumping into Sarah Andelman, At one point, he said Kawakubo asked the founder and creative director of ’’ him what he was interested in doing next. Colette in Paris. “And I was like, ‘Wow! Rei Kawakubo is “It was maybe four or five years ago saying to me: ‘What are you going to do?’ at Art Basel — she gave me a hug, and I And I was sitting in their fragrance room, was like ‘What is that?’ and she told me, and she said, ‘ Yo u want to do a fragrance?’ Wonderwood. And from that moment on and I was like ‘Sure!’ And the next thing I I was just in love with what Comme [des knew, we were off to the races!” Garçons] did,” said Williams. Today, Williams is a billboard His diverse collaborations may be in for his own creativity and that of all different fields, but the reason for other artists: His jewelry — in- pursuing them is always the same. cluding the long strand of knot- “When I do a collaboration with ted pearls dangling midchest, is

brands, I do them with notable masters, BEN WRIGHT “all remade Chanel jewelry [cos- so that I can experience the true purpose tume jewelry recast in precious of collaboration, which is to learn. So I materials], remade so it’s real, only work with masters,” he said. “We PHOTO BY not faux. I love Chanel,” he had the best nose in Paris, I was work- said, pointing to a brightly ing with the best brand — Comme des colored Chanel belt that he’s Garçons is your favorite designer’s favor- customized to suit himself. ite brand — so there was not much of a I was sitting in their fragrance His “DIY” Stan Smith struggle, because I was working with the sneakers have little drawings masters of the artistic universe.” room, and [Rei Kawakubo] said, by artist Takashi Murakami, Williams continued: “I work with all by Nigo — the Japanese music the masters because it allows me a crash producer and Williams’ collab- course into not only who they are as ‘ You want to do a fragrance?’ and orator on the Billionaire Boys people, but into their art form, and their Club and Ice Cream labels — craft. So that’s pretty cool.” I was like ‘Sure!’ And the next thing and by his own hand. His black His restless desire to learn — and to carbon fiber hat — minus the appropriate — extends beyond his offi- I knew, we were off to the races! resins — is the fruit of a col- cial collaborations. laboration with Adidas, while Williams’ main requirement for his — PHARRELL WILLIAMS his jeans are from the Boys own Comme fragrance — other than that The Girl scent. Club. His richly patterned jacket it be unisex — was that it smell woody. “I is by the Japanese label Sacai. was enamored by [Comme’s] ability to de- The fragrance was conceived by “I said to him: ‘Are you sure you don’t Fashion, however, is only one chap- liver wood to the masses in the way that Williams, and created by Christian want to do a proper celebrity fragrance ter in the big book of Pharrell Williams. they have,” he said. Astuguevieille, creative director of Comme with a huge company, with massive ad- The “Happy” and “Get Lucky” singer said The fragrance features top notes of des Garçons Parfums, with Antoine Lie of vertising?’ I told him the way we do it, every single thing he does flows from his neroli, lavender and white pepper; mid- Takasago. It is produced and distributed how we do mostly prestige fragrances; music. “Music is the skeleton key that’s dle ones of iris, styrax and violet, and by Comme des Garçons Parfum. it’s not going to be cheap; we use good opened every door for every opportunity base ones of vetiver, patchouli, cedar- Adrian Joffe, chief executive officer of quality ingredients, and we don’t have that I’ve had in the last twentysomething- wood and sandalwood. Comme des Garçons Parfum, said he hopes so-called, very commercial fragrances. odd years. Without the music, I’m just a It will launch at Dover Street Market the new fragrance will generate $10 mil- And he said he wanted to do a high- guy with a couple of weird ideas,” he said. London on Sept. 1, and roll out to the U.S. lion in retail sales in the first year. “That’s quality, high-image, prestige perfume. He declined to talk about upcom- on Sept. 5. It will be sold at all Dover Street a lot more than we normally do, but this, He said we were the perfect partners ing collaborations, saying he was happy Markets — in Tokyo, London and New York we think, should be quite successful.” for him.” “with all of the platforms that I’ve been — and at Sephora, via an exclusive partner- Joffe said it was quick getting the fra- The Grammy Award-winning Williams blessed to be able to work across thus ship, in the U.S., Canada and France. grance off the ground. “We did the deal, is certainly’’ no stranger to a collaboration far.” Last fall in Paris, during the launch The bottle, logo and packaging have and then we got the perfume in 14 months. and clearly thrives on the work he does of his sunglasses project with Moncler, been designed by House + Holme, fea- I think it was about six tries, so we met off the music grid: He has his own cloth- Williams hinted about a possible collabo- turing bold, cartoonish artwork by the about five, six times. He really knew exact- ing lines under the Billionaire Boys Club ration with Google Glass. artist Kaws — a friend of Williams’. The ly what he wanted, it was quite easy,” said and Ice Cream labels, and has under- Asked if there was any progress on 100-ml. bottle is priced at $135, while a Joffe, adding that Williams had zero doubts taken a number of fashion- and art-world that, he demurred: “I’m not one to dis- 10-ml. travel size version costs $30. about his approach to fragrance. partnerships in recent years. cuss half-baked cakes.” CONGRATULATIONS to the 2014 BEAUTY AWARDS WINNERS! 20 YEARS OF RECOGNIZING BEAUTY INNOVATION

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LEARN MORE AT @ CEW.ORG SPONSORED BY 8 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 beauty FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ Change Agents Set the Agenda beauty-industry-news. Industry leaders and innovative, young indie brands shared the spotlight in Palm Beach, Fla., at the WWD Beauty CEO Summit. This is the first in a series of installments, which will appear in the weeks to come, featuring speeches from this historic meeting.

FRÉDÉRIC ROZÉ, L’ORÉAL USA nicated with differently. Advertising — fewer, bigger, better.” But L’Oréal Frédéric Rozé, president and chief ex- must be rethought. Rozé noted that also sees a profusion of niche prod- ecutive officer of L’Oréal USA and ex- some of L’Oréal’s fastest growing brands ucts. “Niche can be big with tenacity, A T ecutive vice president of parent L’Oréal — Kiehl’s and Urban Decay — tend to resilience, passion.” Moreover, devices BE U Y SA for the Americas Zone, opened the advertise the least. “This is going to be “transform the skin now, and on top of Summit 2014 WWD Beauty CEO Summit with a stir- the model for the digital natives,” Rozé that, connected beauty is coming with ring call to action. advised, reassuring nervous publishers the trend of self-measurement. Flashing glints of wit, radiating that they will be supported. The digital Q “Why don’t we reinvent the retail charm and showing a bit of humility, world requires managers to “always be collaboration?” He said while U.S. he adroitly demonstrated how the sum- on.” Rozé observed, “This is going to retailers have an impressive capacity mit’s theme, “Metamorphosis,” serves imply a lot more delegating. It is the end to strategize growth with their ven- as a locomotive for growth for L’Oréal of the top-down only.” dors, there is always this question: and the industry. Q New innovations, new disruptions: who owns the consumer — retailers “At the end of the day, our success “We all think that we must focus more or their vendors? “It’s really urgent to comes from our capacity to transform unite our forces to better understand ourselves, to metamorphose our- and to better touch our customers and selves,” said Rozé. develop our common businesses,” He then delivered an insightful Rozé declared. analysis of L’Oréal’s advances and the Q Reinvent go-to-market strategy: “I industry’s needs, ticking off key moves am shocked by the level of promotion- that triggered transformations in each ality in this country. Yo u have so many of the American affiliate’s main busi- gifts, so many sets, so many bags,” he nesses. On a broader corporate scale said. “Why the destruction of value that for the Americas and beyond, the adds nothing in units in the market and high-service brand categories were re- draws down the prices?” He suggested grouped into a select division and the the answer is innovation. STEPHEN LEEK mass-oriented consumer product divi- Q “A new generation of [management] sion was decentralized and localized teams is coming,” Rozé said. “So differ- PHOTOS BY “to stick to consumer needs in the dif- ent, so smart, so fast — the Millennials. ferent regions,” Rozé noted. “We must recognize that they are at- DAVE LEWIS, UNILEVER He then highlighted five areas for tracted by so many different companies PALM BEACH, Fla. — Unilever, which the industry to ponder. outside beauty — Google, YouTube, jumped a notch to become the world’s num- Q New customers, new markets: More Patagonia — that are giving a different ber-two beauty player for the first time in aggressively target men, with products perspective on professional life with last year’s WWD Beauty Inc Top 100 rank- like hair coloring, and pursue under- strong sense of purpose.... We must ing, has had numerous catalysts for change, tapped markets like older people. communicate better our vision of beau- according to Dave Lewis, president of the The young generations of “digital ty in order to attract those talents.” company’s personal-care division. natives” must be engaged and commu- — PETE BORN While always maintaining Unilever’s core DNA of building business based on “care” and “brands with a purpose,” it in September 2011 MICHAEL DUBIN, DOLLAR SHAVE CLUB ments. To build trust, Dubin continued, created a personal-care division. The branch Michael Dubin proved his business brands must also keep their promises combined the oral-care, skin-care, skin-cleans- acumen is as sharp as his comedic and deliver great customer service. As ing, hair-care and deodorant categories. timing during a fast-paced, idea- an example, he told of a customer who “It was a real broadening of our expertise; it packed presentation. had stopped paying his DSC invoices unlocked some potential and it has driven the The founder and chief executive after losing his job. When the company growth,” he said. “It also allowed us to build out officer of the e-commerce site Dollar learned what had happened, they sent a much broader vision of our business.” Shave Club, Dubin shot to fame with a him some free blades so that he would Whereas 125-year-old Unilever had for- video called, “Our Blades Are F---ing “look great on interviews,” Dubin said. merly focused on individual body parts, it Great.” Its success helped the company The customer wrote to Dubin, say- took a holistic approach. grab more than 5 percent of the U.S. ing, “What an awesome gesture. I start “Actually looking at the whole person, men’s razor market on a volume basis my new job on Monday and have been putting people first was the biggest single in just two years, by fulfilling Dubin’s touting DSC to anyone who will listen.” catalyst and change agent within our person- first mandate when creating a new That level of service creates custom- al-care business,” he said. “So just looking at brand: Cut through the clutter, then ers who happily — and freely — tout the problem through a different perspective focus on solving a specific problem. the benefits of the brand, Dubin said, DSC plans to capitalize on that con- has created a huge, huge amount of innova- “When you solve someone’s prob- showing positive comments posted on nection by launching more than a dozen tion and an opportunity in our business.” lem,” said Dubin, “you earn their trust. Facebook. “Notice how these guys talk new products in the next 18 months. A second metamorphosis driver for And that’s what it’s all about.” to us,” he said. “They want to be part of “We want to own the men’s bathroom,” Unilever has been concentrating more on In Dollar Shave Club’s case, the prob- the brand. They speak our language — said Dubin. “It’s a multibillion-dollar in- premium personal care. lem being solved was the unpleasant- it’s language we’ve given them. We have dustry that’s growing up to 10 percent a “Now that’s a huge opportunity for us, and ness and expense associated with buying a deep emotional connection with our year. We want to make our mark.” that’s driven quite a lot of growth,” said Lewis. razor blades in traditional retail environ- guys, our loyalists and champions.” — JENNY B. FINE He said Unilever redefined its concept of care, that the shift has been from a nur- turing, sort of paternalistic care toward per- AMY ERRETT, MADISON REED Madison Reed, which sells custom single woman made the same mis- sonal care involving making people feel and For more than a year, Amy Errett shades for $30. takes,” said Errett, a former venture look beautiful and sexy. stared at women’s hair. At dinner par- “My deep belief is that when you capitalist. She sought to improve the “That metamorphosis has driven a huge ties and over dinner, she’d boldly ask, create a new brand you actually need experience — for instance, each box amount of change inside our business,” “Do you color your hair?” to understand your consumer pain features the five-step step-by-step ap- said Lewis. What at first seemed like awkward points,” said Errett, founder and chief plication process — and provide a The first category tackled was hair, start- small talk served as the initial research executive officer of Madison Reed, dur- product that rivals salon quality, while ing with Unilever’s 2010 purchase of Tigi. for Errett’s online hair-color company ing her presentation. For this custom- removing harsh chemicals including “It’s become a hothouse of incubation er, Errett explained, “She has no time. ammonia and resorcinol. and really is on-trend sexy and fashion- She doesn’t want to spend the money Recognizing the impact of digital on able,” he said. and she doesn’t want to go to the salon driving businesses forward, Madison In skin, brands such as Ioma have also every three weeks.” Reed’s e-commerce business was helped alter Unilever’s perspective. In her view, the boxed color lining launched in tandem with a mobile app, The company’s venture fund, which con- mass-market shelves provides little which provides a step-by-step video on sists of 250 million pounds in the U.K. and in the way of advice or instruction. how to apply the color. The app also has a $250 million in the U.S., allows Unilever “to Should the consumer open up the in- 35-minute timer so users don’t leave color experiment widely,” said Lewis, who ad- structions inside the box — which on too long, and has personalized playl- ditionally noted a redirection of the firm’s most do not, Errett found by observing ists to make the wait more enjoyable. research and development. women apply color — she’d find a lita- Madison Reed is working to balance “I’m not going to tell you that it’s easy,” ny of steps in a small typeface. the high-tech aspects of the business with said Lewis, of the company’s transforma- “We stood in 55 women’s bathrooms a high-touch approach, which includes a tion. “But we have some confidence be- over a two-month period and watched call center manned by certified colorists. cause we’ll do what we’ve always done: them actually apply color. And every — MOLLY PRIOR We’ll put people first.” — JENNIFER WEIL WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 9 WWD.COM

DEB HENRETTA, PROCTER & GAMBLE CO. us with her.” P&G’s Secret deodorant Although the market continues to brand capitalized on that dynamic by speculate about who will be the next tapping trendy “experimenters” to chief executive officer of Procter design the fragrances, the names and & Gamble Co., Deb Henretta, the the packaging of its new Destinations company’s group president of glob- line. “As a result, the brand is enjoy- al beauty, was very clear on who ing success,” said Henretta. the new boss is: the consumer. Of Henretta also emphasized the course, as Henretta noted during importance of values for consumers, her presentation at the WWD Beauty citing a Reputation Institute study in CEO Summit, the consumer has al- which 73 percent of consumers said ways been front and center at P&G. they would recommend companies However, before the advent of the they believe are positive stewards, digital age, consumers had a much but said only 5 percent of companies more passive voice. “But that was meet such standards. “This creates a then and this is now,” Henretta said, tremendous opportunity for brands noting that, today, consumers are tak- to take a stand on issues that the ing a much more active role in cocre- consumer wants and cares about,” ating products and services that meet said Henretta. their needs and engage both them The final piece of the puzzle lies both intellectually and emotionally. in inspiring consumers by creating “The new consumer is the new force a genuine emotional experience be- of change,” she declared. tween brand and user. For its part, Many industries have already Cover Girl used its celebrity spokes- started to adapt to the new consumer, people like Ellen DeGeneres and Henretta said, citing the self-health the world of supply and demand is Queen Latifah to front a Girls Can revolution, in which apps help peo- fast turning into a world of demand campaign that quickly went viral. ple monitor everything from their and supply, a world where consum- “Reaching the new consumer body temperature to their glucose ers are playing new roles as critic, as on her terms is our new reality,” levels, and smartphones, like one creator and as new media. Henretta concluded. “Beauty con- PATRICK BOUSQUET-CHAVANNE, by Samsung, measure things such as Noting that consumers can now sumers are in charge and that’s en- MARKS AND SPENCER GROUP PLC heart rate. Henretta sounded the call cocreate and commercialize prod- ergizing.…So let’s shed yesterday’s For Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, metamorphosis for beauty to lead the way, too, then ucts without a major company be- entrenched notion of the brand-con- is a magic word. outlined three key areas in which hind them, Henretta spoke of the sumer relationship in favor of a more Bousquet-Chavanne, who is executive direc- the consumer has changed. “These beauty industry shifting “from one modern approach where our consum- tor of marketing and business development for changes are not simply demographic, that is constructed and business-led er is the boss, but with a capital B.” British retailer Marks and Spencer Group plc, they’re democratic,” she said, “where to one that is, at best, co-structed by — J.B.F noted that transformation is “probably one of the most important journeys M&S has ever em- barked upon.” And beauty, he said, is at the core is doing to make a difference in peo- of that transformation. ple’s life,” said McCoy. “We have a commitment to impact the busi- In the U.S., Avon is looking to ness, secure a consumer base and evolve our modernize direct selling in a way brand name with a global footprint around the that keeps representatives secure world,” said Bousquet-Chavanne. “Back in 2010, and energized with an attractive M&S was essentially a traditional U.K. high- earnings potential. While retaining street retailer who exported products around the Avon heritage, she is also is open the world. Today, our business strategy states to new ideas. “We also need to have a clear plan to reduce our dependency on the a culture that allows fresh thinking U.K. Our vision is to become a truly internation- and say ‘Yes, we can go online, we al multichannel retailer with scale and author- don’t have to do everything face-to- ity in the country in which we trade. We opened face or door-to-door,’” said McCoy. 200 new stores over the last couple of years and Although Avon is facing challeng- we are well on our way to opening another 250 es in the U.S., McCoy said walking stores by 2017 internationally.” away from the market “doesn’t make While the retailer operates more than 800 sense.” That’s not to say, however, stores in its home territory of the U.K., one of there aren’t opportunities in the rest its strongest focuses is international expansion. of the world where Avon generates “We have a strong focus on the emerging markets 85 percent of its business. She’s also and on Western Europe as well,” said Bousquet- keen on expanding the brand and Chavanne. “We opened 39 stores in India over SHERI MCCOY, AVON PRODUCTS INC. tives that empowers women,” she said. channel through partnerships, such the last couple of years while we’re growing at 42 It’s all hands on deck at Avon She’s presented a strategic frame- as the recent distribution deals with percent. We opened 15 stores in Shanghai where Products Inc. as the direct seller work melding growth, simplifica- Korres and Coty. we are growing at about 18 percent. And we makes a run at a turnaround. tion, efficiency and organizational “Wall Street is frustrated, rightly opened 40 stores in Russia, timing is everything “We need every single person in the effectiveness — along with Avon’s so, because we aren’t growing and we in life, and we are growing at about 8 percent. company aligned around how we’re advances in technology and research have some profitability challenges. If Most importantly we are adapting our product going to transform the company,” Sheri and development — to reinvigorate we look at the growth, it’s all coming offer in women’s wear, men’s wear, accessories McCoy, Avon’s chief executive officer, the brand. “Success to me, and what outside the U.S. But our goal is to get and beauty to those dedicated locations. We are told attendees at the summit. I see two years into it, is it’s small the U.S. stable, look at how we learn committed to modernizing the brand in a dramat- McCoy aims to restore what she things, but it’s the important things. from that because it is a developed ic way,” he said, ticking off the food hall, home sees as the essence of the brand. “It It’s when I go and visit the markets market and we need to understand department, fashion destination and the beauty is an iconic brand that really marries and people are talking about the direct selling in a developed market.” universe. “And it is for me the combination of all beauty with a channel of representa- representative and what [he or she] — FAYE BROOKMAN these departments that will create a very exciting new world, a new multichannel world, where the consumers can clearly shop their way, integrating SHANNON CURTIN, WALGREEN CO. with a distinct identity will be able to new technologies and obviously digital” Will clicks replace bricks? The keep up, especially with the new gen- According to Google, 52 percent of searches worlds can exist together if eration of shoppers, she suggested. for women’s clothing is now done by a mobile Walgreens’ Shannon Curtin has her Walgreens has five generations device, overtaking desktop for the first time in say. As the group vice president and of shoppers in its retail stores and just one year, said Bousquet-Chavanne, adding general merchandise manager of online and adapts its offer for each that beauty is already at 36 percent. “Consumers beauty and personal care of the na- group. A red flag to her is any brand are increasingly seeing online as a place for en- tion’s largest drugstore chain, Curtin asking for full assortment and tertainment and browsing and learning,” said aims to make sure its in-store expe- chainwide distribution. “It means Bousquet-Chavanne. “ Yo u cannot go on that rience keeps shoppers coming back. that you don’t understand the mar- transformation journey without bringing new But the multifaceted retailer is also ketplace because there really isn’t talent and people that come from the digital the ultimate omnichannel merchant a one-size-fits-all.” world as well as the publishing world. When you with its potent online network, which Gen-Z might have the biggest im- look at our new Web site, basically content is includes Drugstore.com. pact on ushering in change, Curtin king and conversation is happening every day. “The future of retail is about of- suggested. “This customer will not Beauty is the content-hungry category. We’re get- fering people the services and prod- go shopping. Shopping has to come ting a phenomenal response to the consumers’ ucts they want, when they want it and to them,” she said of Gen-Z, the engagement across every single topic that we ob- on the medium that they prefer. From zero to 18-year-old group. “We have viously program for them on a weekly and daily mobile to tablet to store or some- to ask ourselves are we relevant to basis. And it is all about providing solutions, tips thing new that’s being created right those that we serve? Are the services and engaging that conversation. ” now, she is the boss and our job is to we’re providing really what custom- — JULIE NAUGHTON make it easier for her to take care of ers want,” she said. “Gen-Z will be her personal business,” said Curtin. The beauty shopper, in particular, the first generation to vocalize and “Forcing customers to only shop one demands a total brand experience demand that we change the way we EDITOR’S NOTE: For more on the summit, medium is a costly mistake, especial- and Curtin predicted “average re- think, operate and go to market.” see WWD in the coming weeks. ly to a retailer.” tailers will not survive.” Only those — F.B. 10 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014

Lily Allen and Karl Lagerfeld

Kylie Minogue in Juan Carlos Obando at the amfAR gala.

Karolina Cara Delevingne Kurkova

Sharon Stone in Jessica Chastain eye Roberto Cavalli and in Givenchy haute friends arriving at couture at the the amfAR gala. amfAR gala.

which featured a fashion show and a performance by R&B singer Jason Derulo. A line of cars snaked down the hill leading to the venue, prompting many Strike a Pose partygoers to complete the journey on foot. Garrn, in a white Elie Saab gown slit SKIES WERE unusually cooperative Warhol portrait of Marilyn Monroe, who to the thigh, said it would be “no more as stars arrived to the 21st edition of also inspired the event’s red-themed than 30 minutes” before she was ready amfAR’s annual Cinema Against AIDS fashion show organized by Carine Roitfeld. to kick off her Louboutins after the hike. gala at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc in An acquisitive Russian couple would On the opposite side of the harbor, Antibes, France, on Thursday night later snatch up the 40 red dresses for 3.5 Tetou, the beachfront restaurant where — there was a short respite from the million euros, or nearly $5 million at the celebrities come to eat bouillabaisse, rain that had been pelting the region current exchange. played host to a particularly glitzy crowd throughout the day. Coco Rocha was wondering where one — Chastain, Eva Longoria, Lily Allen, Julie “I was panicking earlier. I didn’t might want to put the gilded skeleton Gayet, Gaspard Ulliel and Gael García Bernal know how I was going to pull this off,” of a mammoth Damien Hirst provided for were among those joining Karl Lagerfeld said Lara Stone in a voluminous skirt the auction. “My living room is already at the second-annual dinner hosted from the Versace archives. filled with other taxidermy,” said Dita by the French edition of Vanity Fair in John Travolta, one of the event’s chairs Von Teese, in Blumarine. collaboration with Chanel. along with Kenneth Cole, Heidi Klum and Highlights of the night — which There was a brief scare when Cannes Sharon Stone, was unimpressed by the again was hosted by amfAR board jury member Carole Bouquet had weather. The certified pilot flew into chairman Cole — included a a severe allergic reaction to Cannes himself. performance by Andrea Bocelli, one of the dishes. Paramedics FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE “I have a Challenger jet. I’m in who got a standing ovation for treated her at the scene, but the WWD.com/eye. the air five days a week,” he said, his rendition of “My Way” in actress gamely stayed until the while his wife Kelly Preston, radiant Italian. He also offered up a end of the meal. Carla Bruni-Sarkozy in an Oliver Tolentino gown, looked dinner invitation at his home Chastain was in town for and Adrien Brody on. “He likes it so much, he uses it in Tuscany, which sold for 1.1 the screening of “The Disappearance like car,” she said. Chanel was on million euros, or $1.5 million. of Eleanor Rigby,” shown as part of the display on many of the women A total of 38 million euros, festival’s Un Certain Regard selection. in attendance, like Karlie Kloss, or $51.9 million, was raised “It’s crazy because, to be honest, it who wore hers with flats, and during the evening. was only three years ago that I brought Milla Jovovich, who said of the Though by the time of the ‘The Tree of Life’ here, but it feels like so feathery number she was gala, the Cannes Film Festival much has happened since. But it was the wearing, “I took the ostrich was entering its second week, beginning, it was my debut, in a way, to down myself.” the round of parties did not the world as a film actress, so definitely it But it was hairstyles in show any signs of dying down. feels like coming home,” she said. general that caught the most On Wednesday night, — PAULINA SZMYDKE attention. Rosario Dawson Rosie Minogue, Stone, Travolta AND JOELLE DIDERICH came with half of her head Huntington- and Preston, Kellan Lutz, Irina shaved, while Conchita Whiteley Shayk and Alessandra Ambrosio Wurst, the Austrian drag were among the VIPs who queen who just won the piled onto Roberto Cavalli’s Eurovision singing contest, yacht for another party. Klum showed up sporting a full- arrived with her new beau, grown beard with his long Vito Schnabel, in tow while Adrian brown hair and a ladylike Grenier kept the Champagne gown by Talbot Runhof. “I feel flowing for everyone. like anything is possible now,” On Tuesday night, Stone was Wurst said of the contest win. the guest of honor at a party, also As if on cue, the rain was at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, back as Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, Sofia hosted by de Grisogono founder Coppola, Leonardo DiCaprio, Kylie and creative director Fawaz Gruosi Minogue, Marion Cotillard, Jessica to show off his new Allegra Paris Chastain, Adrien Brody and Michelle jewelry collection. Amber Heard, Alessandra Hilton Rodriguez walked to the amfAR Chris Tucker, Riley Keough, Justin Ambrosio with Milla STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE tent for a performance by Lana Bieber, Toni Garrn, Cara Delevingne in Roberto Jovovich in Del Rey. Inside, the charity’s fun- and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley were Cavalli. Chanel.

loving auction began with an Andy among the guests at the bash, PHOTOS BY WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 11 WWD.COM

available beginning OBITUARY Memorial Day at the Polo Ralph Lauren East FASHION SCOOPS Hampton store and at Anthony Mazzola, 90 ralphlauren.com, and 50 BAZ AND GISELE TAKE FIVE: Chanel has percent of the purchase ANTHONY MAZZOLA, former editor in chief of Town & turned to director Baz Luhrmann to price of each item from the Country and Harper’s Bazaar, died Wednesday in New call the shots for its upcoming collection will benefit York at age 90. Chanel No.5 ad campaign, The East Hampton Mazzola, who also was the curator of Hearst Corp.’s fine featuring Gisele Bündchen. Historical Society. art collection, started his career at the publishing company The duo were said to — MARC as an art director. In 1948, at the age of 25, Mazzola joined be shooting in the KARIMZADEH T&C as the youngest art director in the magazine’s history. Hamptons’ town of He held that post for nearly two decades, ultimately be- Sagaponack, N.Y., NEXT UP: Christian coming editor in chief in 1965. Wednesday and the Pellizzari will “Anthony Mazzola was a dynamic member of the Hearst filming is expected show his next Magazines family for more than 65 years,” said Steven to continue in New collection at the Swartz, president and chief executive officer of Hearst York City. This is a repeat Armani/Teatro during Corp. “Tony will be missed by everyone who had the plea- performance for Luhrmann, Milan men’s fashion sure of working with him.” who directed the 2004 campaign week, courtesy of Giorgio In 1972, Mazzola was appointed editor in chief of Harper’s for the fragrance with Nicole Kidman. Armani, who has been giving Bazaar, a post he held for 20 years. Following his tenures at Bündchen is also a familiar face up-and-comers a boost by both magazines, Mazzola edited Harper’s Bazaar’s 125th an- with the company — she appears allowing them to use his show niversary book in 1993, and he served as editorial director of in Chanel’s Les Beiges ads. She space. “Offering young and T&C’s two-volume 150th anniversary tome. was chosen for her “natural promising designers a real “Tony Mazzola was one of the most creative editors beauty and modern femininity,” opportunity for visibility is I’ve known,” said Hearst Corp. director Gilbert Maurer. “A according to the company. something that I’m passionate man of great personal style, he intuitively knew what good The new Chanel No.5 campaign about. I like to discover looked like and his work at Town & Country and Harper’s will be unveiled at the end of the visions and regain the energy Bazaar reflected that acute sensibility.” year. Agents for Luhrmann and that is the mainspring of A recipient of numerous awards in the art direction and Bündchen declined comment success,” said Armani, adding design fields, Mazzola was inducted as a Knight Officer of about the shoot. that he wished Pellizzari “a the Order of Merit by the Republic of Italy in 1967. He also — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG bright future.” served as a consultant and designer for such organizations AND JENNIFER WEIL A T-shirt from Ralph Lauren’s East Treviso, Italy-born as the United Nations Children’s Fund, the Association of Hampton Historical Collection. Pellizzari, who cut his design Junior Leagues International, Princess Marcella Borghese PRESERVING HISTORY: A longtime teeth in Florence and Paris, said, Inc., General Foods, Columbia Pictures Inc. and the New supporter of The East Hampton Historical FOR MORE “During my career, [Armani’s] talent, York World’s Fair of 1965. Society, Ralph Lauren has now become a SCOOPS, SEE consistency and timeless style have He is survived by his wife, Michele Morgan Mazzola, partner in the restoration of the Mulford always fascinated me. I hope to live up who worked with him at Hearst for over 45 years, and three Farm, including the Hedges Barn, in the WWD.com. to his iconic theater with my fashion children, Alisa Mazzola Mitchell, Marc Mazzola and Tony Village of East Hampton, N.Y. show, as this is an important step for me Mazzola. He is also survived by five grandchildren. As part of the contribution, Lauren in my creative and professional life,” he There will be a private funeral in Indiana, and a memo- created a special East Hampton said. Pellizzari is known for imbuing his rial in New York at a future date. In lieu of flowers, do- Historical Collection, including hooded sweaters, clothes with a carefree, relaxed spirit without losing nations can be made to Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer branded East Hampton Historical Society T-shirts, his passion for elegant tailoring. Center in New York or mskcc.org/giving. baseball caps and beach totes. The pieces will be — CYNTHIA MARTENS — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

TALL TALES: Liberty’s in-house accessories collection, Iphis, just got its own ad MEMO PAD campaign. Designed by the creative team Colville-Walker and shot by Qui Yang, the TIME FOR A NEW HOME: Time Inc. revealed campaign is heavy on London heritage. It plans on Thursday to join the rush shows the coated canvas bags, which are of media companies downtown and screen printed by hand in Italy, dangling relocate its headquarters to Brookfield from various bits of Nelson’s Column or Place in lower Manhattan. from part of the facade of the Liberty Time has signed a long-term lease building near Regent Street. Christopher for 700,000 square feet at 225 Liberty Colville-Walker, the agency’s creative Street. The publishing company, which director, said he wanted to “build a is due to be spun off from parent colorful and abstract journey through the Time Warner on June 6, will vacate city,” and was inspired partly by a Liberty its longtime headquarters in the Time brochure from the Fifties showing & Life Building at 1271 Avenue of the scarves wrapped around a drawing of Americas, where it has been located Nelson’s Column. since 1959. An image from the campaign will According Time’s filing with the run on Sunday in the Sunday Times Securities & Exchange of London, while Commission earlier this other photographs week, it will cost the will be used mostly top company $120 million for in-store and online. the renovation of the raw “Our design team, office space. By relocating led by James Millar, 10 0 its New York staff to six have created floors in Brookfield Place, what represents Time will save itself $50 Liberty’s next step million in rent annually. in developing, “This is a very strengthening and important move for Time broadening the Inc. as we become an Liberty London independent company,” brand,” Ed Burstell, said Joe Ripp, chairman managing director and chief executive of Liberty, said. officer. “We spent months “Iphis is a modern evaluating competing interpretation of a sites in New York and classic Liberty design New Jersey. In the end, — totally Liberty — we were persuaded that colorful, whimsical, the downtown Manhattan An Iphis ad campaign image. yet sophisticated. We location, Brookfield Office were so excited when Properties’ plans for Brookfield Place we saw the range that we felt it deserved THE BEST IN BEAUTY and the incentive package we received an individual ad campaign.” Advertise among the industry’s most infl uential brands and leading power players from Gov. Andrew Cuomo and Empire State Liberty will launch three new Iphis bag Development, drove our decision to stay styles in June. The prints are inspired by in New York City.” Liberty’s Ianthe pattern, an Art Nouveau CLOSE DATE: 7/18 ISSUE DATE: 8/8 | BONUS DISTRIBUTION: TFWA CANNES In moving downtown, Time Inc. is wallpaper design dating back to the joining Condé Nast, which will relocate early 1900s. The bags — Kingly, Carnaby its headquarters to One World Trade and Maddox — are all named for streets Center beginning later this year. around the Liberty store. FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT: [email protected], 212.630.3778 — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD — SAMANTHA CONTI 12 WWD FRIDAY, MAY 23, 2014 WWD.COM Retailers Eyeing Rebound From Tough Q1 {Continued from page one} course of the year.” our Integrated Retail strategy give us added this year. Other initiatives include end of the quarter will continue. Lampert said improving productivity confidence that we’re on the right track. the ongoing reserve-in-store rollout, and But it is by no means a straight-forward has meant focusing on inventory levels, We’re investing heavily in our future and next month, Gap will pilot online order- path for retailers or shoppers, who are still and highlighted that the company’s domes- we’d ask those watching to stay tuned.” ing in the stores. “It’s digital. It’s quick. being very choosy where they spend their tic net inventory is down $511 million year- Our employees will carry it with them on money. The Commerce Department pegged over-year, excluding the impact of Land’s GAP INC. the floor to close the sale,” Murphy said. the total retail and food service sales gain End. To be sure, the company needs less Gap took some missteps in the first quar- during the February-to-April quarter at 3.3 inventory as it continues to close stores. ter but it’s “all in our control” going for- THE BON-TON STORES INC. percent. That was driven by the 8.9 percent Chief financial officer Rob ward, assured chairman and ceo Glenn Bon-Ton had a challenging quarter, wid- rise at automobile and motor vehicle deal- Schriesheim spoke about the company’s Murphy, during the retailer’s conference ening the net loss for the three months ers, a 6.6 percent increase for non-store redeployment of its “rich portfolio of as- call Thursday reviewing first-quarter re- ended May 3 to $31.5 million from $26.6 retailers and a 5.3 percent gain for health sets,” including the possible divestment sults and plans for the future. million in the year-ago period. Total sales and personal-care shops. Lagging some- of its 51 percent stake in Sears Canada, Gap’s first-quarter net profit dropped decreased 6.1 percent to $607.5 million what against those drivers was apparel which was pegged with a market valua- 22 percent to $260 million from $333 mil- from $646.9 million a year ago, and fell and accessories stores, where sales rose tion of $730 million, and the still-poten- lion in the year-ago period. Net sales 5.8 percent on a comparable-store basis. 1 percent, and department stores, where tial separation of its Sears Auto Centers. were up 1 percent to $3.77 billion from Cosmetics and accessories were weak, sales dropped 2.7 percent. Experts who have followed Sears $3.73 billion, while comparable-store according to ceo Hoffman, who said the Although it’s been a painfully slow stronger categories included active and climb out of recession, most economists ath-leisure. Bon-Ton operates 272 stores expect growth to continue, outside of the in the Northeast, Midwest and upper first quarter, where revisions might well Great Plains, where some of the worst show that GDP took a step back. First-Quarter Retail Earnings Scorecard winter weather was seen last quarter. And consumers do have money. Revenues Comps Earnings Vs. EPS Inventories The company came out of the quarter James Smith, chief economist for Consensus with gross margin rates rising to 35.3 per- Parsec Financial Management, pointed cent from 34.8 percent. Clearance cen- out that household net worth rose to $80.7 Aéropostale -12.5% -13% Larger loss Beat -3.9% ters helped move merchandise. Bon-Ton trillion last year — its highest level ever started opening clearance centers about

and a nearly $10 trillion gain versus 2012. Bon-Ton -6.1% -5.8% Larger loss Miss -2.7% a year ago and currently has four. “We have the wherewithal to spend “We saw an improvement in sales now, we have incomes at an all-time re- Buckle 0.7% -0.9% -0.6% Meet 12.6% performance mid-April as the weather cord level and consumer confidence is became more seasonal and traffic trends coming back pretty well,” Smith said. improved dramatically,” Hoffman said. “We had a miserable winter. It’s all be- Claire’s -0.2% -4.4% Larger loss N/A 10.1% “Despite our shortfall in sales, we were hind us, we’re in good shape now and able to achieve a higher gross margin

consumers are spending.” Gap 1.2% -1.0% -21.9% Beat 10.8% rate, control expenses and effectively Even so, competition is increasing for manage our inventory such that we retailers, and Smith said they would do L Brands 5.4% 2% 10.1% Beat 9.4% ended the quarter with retail inventory well to remember the words of Marshall levels 1.7 percent below that of the prior Field: “Give the lady what she wants.” year on a comparable-store basis.” “Retailers with good merchandise se- New York & Co. -3.5% -2.2% Loss vs. profit Miss 10% In a conference call, Hoffman said lection and good price points that cater ’’ Kohl’s, Wal-Mart, Target, Sears and Kmart to consumers are going to prosper might- Ross 5.5% 1% 4% Meet 2% are increasing the frequency of their adver- ily,” he said. “People who can’t figure out tising. “Their national footprint has allowed what on Earth they’re doing…are going Sears -6.8% -1.0% Larger loss Miss -14.9% them to go deeper. It’s the most noticeable to keep having difficulties.” thing of how people have been reacting to Frank Badillo, chief economist at tough business. They have all gotten sharp- Kantar Retail, agreed that the outlook is Signet 6.3% 3.3% 5.2% Beat 6.8% er on their promotions, as we have. I don’t solid and said shoppers pulled back in expect to see any short-term crazy promo- the first quarter because of the inclem- Stein Mart 2.3% 2.6% -4.2% Meet 6% tion.” It’s really about “increasing your mar- ent weather and because they were un- keting spend and you have to be deeper on sure about the costs of the new national Zumiez 9.7% 1.8% Flat Beat 7.4% most of your promotions.” health-care law. “Retailers should be more than hope- SOURCES: COMPANY REPORTS AÉROPOSTALE INC. ful,” Badillo said. “We’re already seeing SEARS COMPS ARE FOR U.S. ONLY. CLAIRE’S COMPS IN LOCAL CURRENCIES, OTHERS IN U.S. DOLLARS. Teen retailer Aéropostale reported first- in the numbers a bound back from this quarter results that missed estimates for winter chill.” both EPS and sales. He said Kantar’s research shows that sales slipped 1 percent. For the three months ended May 3, shoppers intend to spend more going We expect to see “We’re pretty disappointed in our the company saw a wider net loss of $76.8 forward. earnings results for the first quarter. In million, or 98 cents a diluted share, from “It’s bounding back sharply among spite of the challenging operating con- $12.2 million, or 16 cents, a year ago. Wall the haves and the have-nots — the some pretty good ditions, I expected we would do better,” Street’s consensus was a loss of 72 cents a lower- and upper-income households,” Murphy said candidly. share. The company had a restructuring he said. “We expect to see some pretty numbers through the He blamed the results on too much charge of $34.5 million, which widened its good numbers through the rest of the spring-forward product and customer operating loss to $83.4 million. Net sales year as long as we can sustain some mo- rest of the year. communications that could have been fell 12.5 percent to $395.9 million from mentum in the job market.” better, adding that the company could $452.3 million. Comparable-store sales So far, the numbers from most retailers — FRANK BADILLO, have done a better job managing margins. declined 13 percent, on top of a comps de- show plenty of room for improvement. “All three areas are completely in our cline of 14 percent in the same year-ago KANTAR RETAIL control and we are making the necessary quarter. Analysts were expecting sales of SEARS HOLDINGS CORP. changes in Q2. Our goal is gaining share $410 million for the quarter. Sears posted a substantially wider first- since its heyday don’t see an end to the in the second, third and fourth quarters,” Thomas P. Johnson, ceo, said the mac- quarter loss and diluted earnings per retailer’s decline. Murphy said. roeconomic environment in the quarter share at $3.79 — nearly double Wall Walter Loeb of Loeb Associates re- “Old Navy is the brand furthest was impacted by “aggressive promotions, Street’s estimate of $1.87 — but investors ferred to Sears as a “dying dinosaur.” along,” Murphy said. “We made some re- lower mall traffic and unseasonable took it in stride and pushed the compa- He wasn’t kind about its future: “Sears is ally good decisions on assortment, rooted weather.” One bright spot Johnson noted ny’s stock up 4.2 percent to $38.10. absolutely going out of business. They’re in fashion essentials and a good creative was that the chain ended the quarter Chairman and ceo Edward S. not even trying anymore. Sears is trying marketing platform.” with “inventories well-controlled.” Lampert, in a prerecorded call, reiter- to satisfy the investor by selling off pieces. Banana Republic women’s “has For the second quarter, Aéropostale ated the company’s shift to a member- That’s just making a short-term profit.” turned the corner,” the ceo said. expects operating losses of $49 million to ship-based model that is more focused on Jeff Edelman, director of retail and “Customers will truly notice the differ- $54 million, or a diluted EPS range of 55 online sales, noting “Our performance in consumer advisory services at RSM ence in our August delivery.” cents to 61 cents. the first quarter highlights the challenges McGladrey Inc., said, “Sears is on a slip- The Gap brand, he added, “is headed Shares of Aéropostale dropped 17 per- we are facing as well as the progress we pery slope down.” He sai’’d the company in the right direction but still has work cent in early after-hours trading to $3.75 are making in this transformation.” hasn’t yet figured out how to compete in to do. It’s moving to a full global assort- following the earnings report. It’s an explanation that investors and the current marketplace and that what ment in August.” Also ahead: Gap’s first analysts have heard before — although they’re doing is “not working.” As for the global campaign. ROSS STORES INC. that’s not the same as saying Lampert is Shop Your Way membership, Edelman “We are confident in our strategies to Ross’ first-quarter profits rose 4 percent wrong in the final analysis. The company said, “There are better places to shop.” drive long-term value, as evidenced by the to $243.9 million, or $1.15 a diluted share, gained $500 million from the spin-off of In response, a Sears spokesman said, reaffirmation of our full-year guidance” of from $234.6 million, or $1.07, a year ear- Lands’ End, but has also been investing “Sears is embarking on a transformation EPS in the range of $2.90 to $2.95. lier. The off-pricer saw sales increase 5.5 in the Shop Your Way program and tech- of its business, from simply being focused By brand, comparable sales at Gap percent to $2.68 billion from $2.54 billion nology, coming up with a first-quarter net on selling products in a traditional store were negative 5 percent; Banana Republic as comp revenues increased 1 percent. loss of $402 million, compared with a loss network, to serving our members — wher- was negative 1 percent, and Old Navy was The retailer said it expects second-quar- of $279 million a year earlier. ever, whenever and however they want to positive 1 percent. Online net sales grew 13 ter comp growth of 1 to 2 percent with EPS The ceo also spoke about how the firm shop. The progress we see in the engage- percent to $575 million in the quarter. for the quarter of between $1.05 and $1.09, is in the process of closing 80 stores and ment of our members in the Shop Your Across the divisions, a total of 250 with the high end of the range 1 cent above “may close additional stores over the Way program and the traction we see in stores, owned and franchised, will be current consensus estimates on Wall Street.

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