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DELHI Delhi – with Its Tenacious Touts and Crush of Mechanical And

DELHI Delhi – with Its Tenacious Touts and Crush of Mechanical And

119 ( p145 ) Crafts Museum Tomb 's © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © restaurants DELHI Jama Masjid National Museum Gandhi Smriti s ’ ( p127 ), a ( p150 ) then dine at one of Delhi’s superlative one of Delhi’s superlative ) then dine at p150 ( ( p130 ) and ) and p130 ( Humayun bar ( p161 ), a soaring ( p129 ), which can (rice cakes), to crispy wood-fired pizzas and squishy sashimi. (rice cakes), to crispy wood-fired Red Fort ( p131 ), p131 ( idlis ( p131 ) Gandhi Smriti Gandhi Qutb Minar Jama Masjid Jama Masjid ( p130 ), ( p152 ) like a mad thing at the ’s ) like thing at the capital’s a mad p152 ( phenomenal testament to the once-mighty phenomenal testament Mughals Crafts Museum Crafts Shop bevy of earthy and chichi boutiques tomb majestic victory tower built to proclaim the arrival of Islam in and monuments: shining stars include the and monuments: shining stars include the National Museum hold a staggering 25,000 worshippers

Gaze upon upon Gaze , the Marvel India’s largest at outstanding museums the capital’s Peruse Wander around the Quaff cocktails at a swish

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „

A vibrant melting pot, you’ll hear a jumble of vernaculars spoken in Delhi, the most common hear a jumble of vernaculars A vibrant melting pot, you’ll

For those here to catch a flight home there are some glorious last-minute shopping op- some glorious last-minute are a flight home there to catch For those here plump South Indian means that hungry travellers can now feast on everything from meaty Mughlai curries and on everything can now feast means that hungry travellers one of ’s swanky cafés and bars. Furthermore, Delhi’s recent global cuisine revolution global cuisine revolution Delhi’s recent Furthermore, one of New Delhi’s swanky cafés and bars. , and the other half reviving themselves over frothy cappuccinos or frosty cocktails at frothy cappuccinos over themselves Old Delhi, and the other half reviving themselves in history at the dramatic Red Fort, in history at the dramatic of bazaars themselves medieval-flavoured Jama Masjid and as the capital of Islamic India. Visitors can easily dip into both, spending half the day immersing can easily dip into both, spending half the day Visitors India. as the capital of Islamic New Delhi was built as the imperial capital of India by the British; rambunctiousNew Delhi was built as the Old Delhi served ent worlds, the ‘old’ and the ‘new’, each presenting deliciously different experiences. Spacious experiences. deliciously different the ‘new’, each presenting ent worlds, the ‘old’ and being , English, Punjabi and . In terms of its layout, Delhi encapsulates two very differ- two very of its layout, Delhi encapsulates and Urdu. In terms being Hindi, English, Punjabi and some of the subcontinent’s yummiest places to eat. and some of the subcontinent’s captivating ancient monuments, magnificent museums, a vivacious performing-arts magnificent museums, a vivacious captivating ancient monuments, scene gritty surface and you’ll swiftly discover that India’s capital is sprinkled with glittering gems: gritty surface with glittering that India’s capital is sprinkled and you’ll swiftly discover sions muddy the plus points of this truly multidimensional metropolis. Scratch beyond the Scratch of this truly multidimensional metropolis. sions muddy the plus points confronting and confounding for the first-time visitor. But don’t let petulant first impres- visitor. for the first-time confronting and confounding Delhi – with its tenacious touts and crush of mechanical and human traffic – can be downright and human traffic – can crush of mechanical touts and Delhi – with its tenacious Delhi that twinkling mirrorwork bedspread in or strikingthat twinkling mirrorwork bedspread Madhubani painting in Bihar. portunities, with handicrafts from all around India – a real blessing if you regret not buying portunities, blessing if you regret around India – a real with handicrafts from all DELHI 120 0 2 km DELHI 0 1 mile Radio 12 Delhi ὅὅὅὅ Dr KB Hedgewar Marg A B C Colony D E F ὈὈ To Chandigarh Ὀ Shalimar (248km) Bagh Wazirabad Rd ὅὅὅὅModel Rohini East Town 1 Majnu-ka-Tilla 1

Outer Ring Rd The Mall 18 Kohat Netaji Subhash 33 Enclave Place Khyber Pass Depot Ashok Grand Trunk Rd Khyber River ὈὈὈὈVishwa Ὀ Pass Vihar Vidyalaya Vidhan Keshav Puram Sabha

Ring Rd Rd 2 Ring 2 Kanhiya Nagar (MG Kamla

Nagar Rd)

Civil 20 NH10 InderlokὈὈὈὈὈ New Rohtak Rd Lines Civil Lines Shastri Nagar Sabzi Mandi Jhansi Rd Kashmiri Rd Train Station Gate

Pul Rani Sarai Rohilla Pratap Nagar Kashmiri Gate 57 Silmpur Train Station Bangash Tis Silmpur Sabzi Hazari See Old Delhi Map (p128) Mandi Delhi Train Station Pontoon Bridge Kishan Ganj (Old Delhi) Train Station (Nov-Jun) Marginal Bandh Rd Chandni 3 Moti Nagar Patel Sadar Chowk Vijay 3 ὈὈὈὈὈὈQutb Rd ὈὈὈChandni Chowk ὈὈὈRed Rd Ring Ὀ Nagar Desh Bandhu Gupta Rd Ghat Fort Old Delhi Ramesh Nagar Shadipur Karol (MG Rd) Shanti Patel Rd Bagh Chowri Bazaar 44 49 Vana Marg Pontoon Bridge 22 58 See (Nov-Jun) 23 Map (p140) New Delhi Tagore Garden Kirti Train 34 Station Train Station Pusa Rd Jhandewalan Paharganj Delhi Raj Rajendra Place Panchkuian New Delhi Rajendra Gate Ghat Sabhash Nagar ShankarNagar Rd Marg Naraina Train ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ

42 lonelyplanet.com Station Ganga Ram Shivaji Bridge Hospital Rd R.K. Ashram 13 28 Marg Train Station 16 New Rajendra World Trade Tower 4 19 4 Nagar Connaught 56 Place Bengali Market Mandir Marg Road Marg See Connaught Place To Anand Pusa Hill Forest Map (p136) Pragati Vihar Bus Southern Patel Mandi Maidan Stand Ridge Chowk House (2.5km) Forest Baba Kharak Singh Marg Indraprastha ilak Marg ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈT Ὀ ὈὈὈ

DELHI

(1.4km) 21

Ghiyas-ud-din Airways (15km) Airways

To Tomb of Tomb To

Guru Ravi Das Marg Das Ravi Guru

121 British (15km);

43

To To

Resort (1km); Jaipur (259km) Jaipur (1km); Resort

To Ashok Country Ashok To

Press Enclave Marg Enclave Press

Kailash II Kailash Map (p161) Map

Greater

Complex

tri Marg Rd Gurgaon

39 s See Qutb Minar Qutb See

8 8

Sha Nagar

Aurobindo Marg Aurobindo

Malviya

Agra (200km)

University

Surajkund (24km);

Nehru

Hospital (2km); Hospital ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ Mandela Nelson

Jawarharlal

To Apollo To NH8

Mehrauli Rd Mehrauli

Lal Bahadur Lal 15

Ho Chi Minh Marg Minh Chi Ho

30

Outer Ring Rd Ring Outer Begumpur

6 32

Kailash I Kailash

Rd

Greater 25

Fort Siri

International Terminal 2 (4km) 2 Terminal International

Siri

41

Olof Palme Marg Palme Olof

of Toilets (1km); Centaur Hotel (1.5km); Hotel Centaur (1km); Toilets of Place Main Market Main

51 59

To Sulabh International Museum International Sulabh To

Nehru Green Park Green

14

Africa Ave Africa

Vihar

Khel Gaon Marg Gaon Khel

Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ

Ὀ Marg Poorvi

7 7 Vasant

3

10

48

Rd

Park

Josip Broz Tito Marg Tito Broz Josip

Fort

38

Siri

Kailash

27

Khas

Gulmohar

52

Airport Rd Airport

Vivekanand Marg Vivekanand Complex East of East

Terminal 1 Terminal

Hauz

46 35

24

Iskcon Temple Iskcon

Domestic

Okhla Train Station Train

Lok Hare Krishna Hare

26 Enclave

Part II Part

11

Basant

Safdarjang

Extension Airport

Colony

(RK) Puram (RK)

45

South International 7

Nagar

New Friends New Rama Krishna Rama

Deer Park Deer

Ansari Indira 1

37

55 36

31 4

Nagar

Nagar

Ring Rd (MG Rd) (MG Rd Ring

Part I Part

Lajpat

40

Nehru

Rao Tularam Rao Nagar

Extension

54

Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ

Ὀ 47

Colony Sarojini South

8

Benito

50

Kalidi

Rao Tularam Marg Tularam Rao Defence

Palam Rd Palam

INA Market INA

Mathura Rd Mathura 53 9

Marg

Jua Niketan See Map (pp132–3) Map Delhi Central See

Anand

rez

29 6 6

Train Station Train

Train Station Train

M

Sewar Nagar Sewar

Jangpura

arg Lodi Colony Lodi Gurgaon Rd Gurgaon Campus) Train Station Train

Aerodrome (South Sarojini Nehru Stadium Nehru

Safdarjang

University

Jawaharlal

17

Bagh Khan ISBT Khan Delhi

Jor NH8

Sarai Kale Sarai Train Station Train

Train Station Train Park

Nizamuddin

Chanakyapuri Lodi Rd Lodi 5 Nehru ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ

ὈὈ Racecourse

Club

Golf Colony

Course Sardar Patel Marg Patel Sardar Upper Ridge Rd Ridge Upper Army

2 Golf Subramaniam Bharti Rd Bharti Subramaniam Station Rd Station Zoological

Delhi

National

River Panchsheel Marg Panchsheel

Park

Hapur Bypass Hapur

Delhi Rd Jayanti Nagar

Ring Rd (MG Rd) (MG Rd Ring

Mahavir Sunder

5 5

Delhi

Train Station Train Yamuna New ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ

Ring Rd (MG Rd) (MG Rd Ring ὈὈ

Train Station Train

Gate

Smarak Park Smarak

Brar Square Brar

India

Buddha Jayanti Buddha

Estate

Secretariat

Train Station Train President's

Central

Pragati Maidan Pragati T lonelyplanet.com DELHI Delhi in the 17thcentury, thusshifting the emperor, , constructed theseventh Purana ,also in NewDelhi.TheMughal while EmperorSher Shah created thesixthat Firoz Shah Kotlainpresent-day New Delhi, ThefifthDelhi,Firozabad, wasatstands. around thearea where theQutbMinarnow first fourcitiesof Delhiwere tothesouth, NewDelhi.The which wastheBritishRaj’s founded aroundmodernDelhi,the lastof foraround2500years.settled suggests thattheareacal evidence hasbeen Mahabharata over 3000years ago,buthistori- city of Indraprastha,which featured inthe tobethesiteIt’s alsobelieved of thefabled western and centralAsia andSoutheastAsia. the Yamuna River andontheroute between the plainsinitiallynearafordingpointon agateway city,builton as ithasalwaysbeen partinIndian it hasplayedapivotal history but India’scapital, Delhi hasn’talwaysbeen 122 HISTORY All IndiaInstituteofMedical Museum...... Shankar's InternationalDolls Charity)...... Nirmal Hriday(Missionariesof National RailMuseum...... Mandir)...... Lakshmi NarayanTemple(Birla Hotel...... (see46) Jaypee VasantContinental ...... Firoz Shah'sTomb...... Firoz ShahKotla...... Coronation DurbarSite...... Concern IndiaFoundation...... Temple)...... Bahai HouseofWorship(Lotus Ashtaang...... Pillar...... (see13) SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES India...... (see51) Wildlife ProtectionSocietyof Timeless...... Teksons...... (see 54) South AfricanEmbassy...... Singaporean Embassy...... New ZealandEmbassy...... Maldives HighCommission...... (see9) Office(FRRO)...... East WestMedicalCentre...... Citibank ATM...... (see35) Bangladeshi Embassy...... Sciences...... INFORMATION Tughlaqabad...... Charity)...... Shishu Bhavan(Missionariesof Foreigners' RegionalRegistration At least eight knowncities haveAt leasteight been EH • Hsoy DELHI ••History 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D7 E4 E1 D4 F7 C6 E2 E7 C6 E6 C7 D7 C6 E7 C5 F8 C6 D8 D7 E4 D1 DRINKING EATING SLEEPING Ego Lounge...... (see36) Barista (Branch)...... (see54) Barista (Branch)...... (see46) Barista (Branch)...... (see40) Tamura...... Swagath...... Sugar &Spice...... (see46) Sagar...... (see 40) Punjabi byNature...... (see35) Park Baluchi...... (see48) Not JustParathas...... Naivedyam...... (see 48) La Piazza...... (see4) Govinda's...... Flavours...... Ego Thai...... Diva...... (see 39) China Garden...... (see39) Café Turtle(Branch)...... (see52) Arabian Nites...... Yatri House...... Wongdhen House...... Uppal's Orchid...... The Manor...... Radisson Hotel...... Peace House...... (see33) One LinkRd...... Master GuestHouse...... Icon Villa...... Icon Towers...... Hotel Tarra...... Home AwayFromHome...... Ess Gee's...... Bajaj IndianHomeStay...... of their capital from (Calcutta; Bengal (Calcutta; of fromKolkata theircapital commercial centre. oftal Indiaatthetime, butitwasacritical a British administrator. Delhiwasn’tthecapi- British captured Delhiandpromptlyinstalled than sixcenturiesof Islamicrule. In1803, the cupied thecityin1193,heushered inmore northern India. ButwhenQutb-ud-dinoc- Delhi themostsignificantHinducentre in controlinthe12thcenturyandmade seized TheChauhans today andislargely preserved. correspondsjahanabad roughly toOldDelhi fromAgra capital Mughal toDelhi;hisShah- In 1911,theBritishannouncedshifting

„ „ „ „ FAST FACTS

When togo:November toMarch Telephone code: Area: 1483sqkm Population:12.8million 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 7ENTERTAINMENT 27 26 25 24 23 22 B7 E6 E8 F7 E7 F7 C7 D4 E1 A7 F6 A8 E6 C4 B7 B7 A7 D7 C3 C3 TRANSPORT SHOPPING Thai AirwaysInternational...... Lalli MotorbikeExports...... (see49) Jhandewalan CycleMarket...... Inter StateBusTerminal...... Air Canada...... (PartII)...... E6 South ExtensionMarket (PartI)...... South ExtensionMarket Sarojini NagarMarket...... Roopak's...... (see 49) Planet M...... (see55) N-Block Market...... M-Block Market...... Lajpat NagarCentralMarket..... Karol BaghMarket...... Hauz KhasVillage...... Fabindia...... (see 52) ...... Defence ColonyMarket...... (see40) Cottons...... (see 52) Basant LokComplex...... Ansal Plaza...... Tapas Lounge...... (see46) Satyam Cineplex...... PVR Saket(Anupam4)...... PVR PriyaCinema...... (see46) Dances ofIndia...... Shalom MedLoungeBar...... (see52) Lizard Lounge...... (see55) Kylin...... (see 46) Hookah Bar&Lounge...... (see46) Geoffrey's...... (see 45) % 011 lonelyplanet.com 54 59 58 57 56 55 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 D7 E7 D3 E3 E4 D6 E7 E7 E6 D3 D7 D6 C7 E7 B3 D8 E4 DELHI 123 Delhi Delhi Eicher City City Eicher 10.30am- h 23766080; www Good Earth Delhi Good Earth Delhi 23320020; 18 B-Block, % % 23744877; www.people (Rs 69). % (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) (Rs 30) and the (Map p136 ; p136 (Map h 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun) Attached is (Rs 290); Eicher also produces a (Rs 290); Eicher Urban sprawl – in the form of shanty set- shanty the form of sprawl – in Urban h The prosperous of Gurgaon, Gurgaon, city of satellite The prosperous Most of the following places are well- following places are the Most of treeonline.com; Regaltreeonline.com; Bldg, Sansad Marg; 7pm Mon-Sat) Apart from fiction, nonfiction cerebral there’s (gender issues, human rights, environmental matters etc). People TreePeople INFORMATION INFORMATION Bookshops with some (es- Delhi has brilliant bookshops selling gor- pecially those at ) at a fraction of novels leather-bound geous home. the price they’d cost back nonfiction, guidebooks, novels, with stocked magazines and maps. AREA PLACE CONNAUGHT New Book Depot Oxford Bookstore tlements and affluent residential pockets – – pockets and affluenttlements residential is rife. is a promi- the centre, south of around 25km that’s outsourcing hub nent multinational office by ultramodern characterised largely malls. shopping blocks and snazzy Maps fold- a free ) has p125 India Tourism Delhi ( detail, away Delhi map. For exceedingly more most bookshops sell the 245-page Map Road Map .oxfordbookstore.com; Statesman House, 148 Barakhamba.oxfordbookstore.com; Rd; ). p150 the Cha Bar ( Inner Citcle;

Tourist Map & Guide Tourist Map Held over several days, featuring Indian music and dance performances. several Held over p161 ) (29 Jan; Rajpath, p130 ) The closing of the celebrations is marked by the p130 (29 Jan; Rajpath, (15 Aug; Red Fort, p127 ) On this day, when India celebrates its Independence from Britain in p127 (15 Aug; Red Fort, (Jan/Feb) Held over a few days, this colourful days, Held over a few (Jan/Feb) a variety event of flowers including hybrids. features (Jul; Gardens) of mango showcases hundreds Running for several days, this juicy festival Talkatora

DELHI •• Orientation (Oct/Nov; Qutb Minar, (26 Jan; Rajpath, p130 ) Incorporates a spectacular military parade. p130 (26 Jan; Rajpath, Delhi celebrates Diwali ( p1137 ) and Dussehra ( p1137 ) with particular verve. p1137 ( ) and Dussehra p1137 Diwali ( Delhi celebrates

varieties. 1947, the prime the nation from the Red minister addresses Fort ramparts. Qutb Festival Delhi Flower Show Festival Mango Beating of the Retreat FESTIVALS IN DELHI IN DELHI FESTIVALS – for this year’s details, contact can be variable India Tour- the and venues dates festival Delhi’s ). p125 ism Delhi office ( Day Republic Beating of the Retreat, also entailing military pageantry. Tickets are essential for both events available at are and are Beating of the Retreat, military pageantry. Tickets also entailing ). p125 India Tourism Delhi ( New Delhi can be further subdivided into Since Independence, Delhi has prospered Delhi has prospered Since Independence,

The domestic terminals of the Indira Gan- of The domestic terminals a further 8km away. dhi International Airport are 15km southwest Airport are dhi International is terminal and the international the centre of path, which has the tourist office, hotels and has the tourist office, hotels path, which a shopping strip. ernment areas around Rajpath to the south. ernment areas Running south from Connaught Place is Jan- the business and residential areas around around areas the business and residential and the gov- Connaught Place (the city’s core) cheap accommodation. cheap acting as a sort of buffer zone between the old acting as a sort of with jam-packed and new cities, is Paharganj, gate. In Old Delhi there’s the main Inter State Inter the main Old Delhi there’s In gate. south, the and, to the (ISBT) Bus Terminal New Delhi train station. Near this station, Although Delhi is spread out, the areas of of out, the areas Although Delhi is spread easy to navi- relatively are to travellers interest ORIENTATION ORIENTATION crowding, traffic congestion, ballooning child crowding, traffic ballooning child congestion, pollution. and labour, housing shortages apart from growing pressure on the city’s on the city’s apart from growing pressure over- – is chronic groaning infrastructure portunities. The downside of this boom – this boom – of portunities. The downside as the capital of modern India, with its modern India, with its as the capital of due to rapid population spiralling upwards job op- increased economic expansion and were booted out of India and Delhi became India and out of booted were India. an independent the capital of inaugurated, until 1931. However, only 16 1931. However, until 16 only inaugurated, inauguration, the British the grand after years sun would neversun would set on the Raj. Construc- and the city officially completed, tion wasn’t was ardently championing independence) and independence) championing was ardently proceeded as though New Delhi to build the lonelyplanet.com DELHI Lodi Estate) Mukherjee Marg) Mukherjee Kasturba Gandhi Marg) Gandhi Kasturba Rabindra Bhavan Rabindra Bhavan Mueller Max Centre India International Delhi PublicLibrary Council British Center American Alliance Française happenings). trical performances(telephone forcurrent seminars aswelldance,musicandthea- Cultural centres often hostexhibitionsand Cultural Centres&Libraries Timeless Teksons EXTENSION SOUTH Full CircleBookstore &Sons Faqir-Chand Sons Bahri MARKET KHAN 124 Kasturba Gandhi Marg) Gandhi Kasturba complimentary coffee ortea. Browseovera toarchitecture. books, fromIndiantextiles Sweets’), Timeless specialisesinqualitycoffee-table ‘Bengal IMarket’s Part walk fromtheSouthExtension h 7.30pm Mon-Sat) % h h Gandhi Marg) Gandhi a bite to packed spices, gobble to doingso, whilethosewho are allshopped outcandomore Qila the mesmerising the afternoon inquietmeditation atthe Follow theitineraryabove, andonthethirddaywanderaround Four Days National Museum To gentlyacclimatisetodizzyingDelhi,spendyourfirstdayexploringthese calmsites: the Two Days DELHI IN… 10am-7pm) Hidden inabacklane(afew minutes’ 10am-7pm) Hidden 24619431; 40 Max Mueller Marg) Mueller 24619431; 40Max 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)CaféTurtle isupstairs( p150 ). 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) EH • Ifrain DELHI ••Information On dayfour,spend themorningatlaid-back On daytwo,ramblearoundOldDelhi’s ( ( p130 ). Those ondoingmore keen ( % % (Map (Map pp132-3 ; bazaars eat 24617030; Part I; 24617030; Part 24693257; 46 Housing Society, Part I; 24693257; 46HousingSociety,Part (Map (Map p136 ; (Map (Map p136 ; ( p146 ) andaspotof (Map (Map pp132-3 ; Copernicus (Map (Map pp132-3 ; jalebis (Map (Map pp132-3 ; ( p152 ). Afterwards, grabanautorickshaw southto (Map (Map p128 ; (Map (Map pp132-3 ; (Map (Map pp132-3 ; Dances ofIndia (p131), % (friedsweet‘squiggles’)andbrowse for banglesintheoldcity’saction- % (Map (Map pp132-3 ; % 24694610; h 23711401; 17 Kasturba 23711401; 17Kasturba % Gandhi Smriti 23316841; 24 10am-8pm Tue-Sun) % % % 23962682; SP % 43500200; 72 24618810; h 24655641; 23329506; 3 ( p151 backata ), thenkick shopping 11am- Bahai HouseofWorship Bahai shopping 10) and (p130) Red Fort Red ( p152 ). Performing arts; arts; Performing Art; Marg); available andbookshops. atnewsstands from Delhi Grab OutlookTraveller’s performances toin-vogue bars. Delhi’edout? sive listings/reviews rangingfromtheatrical glossy monthlymagazinewithcomprehen- Delhi Diary include the what’sonduringyourvisit)ascertaining Information-rich publications(excellentfor Media DSIDC CyberCafé theinternetinPaharganj. surf 30min Rs10; Cyber Station Cyber Graphics scan/write aCD. charging Rs5toprintapage andRs25to Internet centres are mushrooming,withmost Internet Access markets. reports. Pharmacies are foundinvirtuallyall The East West and Apolloget goodtraveller Medical Services Connaught Place. battered butthisisoneof thelimitedinternetcentres in per hrRs35; Rs 40; of literature; ( p152 ) caneasilydevote therest oftheday 17) and (p127) Crafts Museum % Humayun h Lalit KalaAkademi 23384634); 9.30am-7.30pm) Well-spacedterminals. % h h bar (Rs225).Mostpublicationsare Delhi City Guide (Map (Map p140 per Bazaar,Paharganj; ; Main (Rs10). 23386626) % ’ sightseeing (Map (Map pp132-3 per30min Market; ; Khan 9am-8pm Mon-Sat) Some keyboards are 9am-8pm Mon-Sat)Somekeyboards s tomb Qutb Minar Jama Masjid 7.30am-10pm) Oneofmanyplacesto ( p150 ). ( p135 ). Intheevening, watch Sangeet NatakAkademi (Map (Map p136 ; N-Block,ConnaughtPlace; Connaught Place 23387246); ( p131 ) andnearby (AcademyofContemporary ( p130 ). First City ( p127 ). ( p161 ) thenspend Sahitya Akademi ( p129 ), thensniff Weekend Breaks lonelyplanet.com (Rs20)and (Academyof (Rs30)isa 15) for (p135) Purana (Academy DELHI 125 23364111; 23320577; 78 23320577; 8am-last flight); % 24hr) Gives tourist- % h (Map p136 ; p136 (Map h 24628890; Khan Market; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) 10am-7.30pm 23324446; 2 A-Block, Con- 23324446; 2 A-Block, 10am-1pm & 1.30-4.30pm % (Map p136 ; 6 A-Block); p136 (Map h h % 25675296; h 197. (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map 25691171; (; www 23737587; Vandana Bldg, 11 Tolstoy Bldg, 11 Tolstoy 23737587; Vandana % % Connaught Place ( % 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) ( % Connaught Place h (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map 8am-9pm Mon-Sat) International air freight. 8am-9pm Mon-Sat) International be fooled – the only official one is one is be fooled – the only official h not (Map p136 ; p136 (Map domestic airport 23320008; 88 Janpath; 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) For contact details of Indian regional tour- For contact Indian regional details of international airport Delhi map and various as well as a free advice related Their special branch investigates tourism- brochures. complaints. related Sat); % naught Place; Janpath, Connaught Place; Connaught Place; Janpath, New Delhi main post office Baba Kharak Singh Marg; Mon-Sat) Poste restante available at the main post office; available at the Mon-Sat) Poste restante The to GPO, New Delhi – 110001. mail is addressed ensure conveniently located Connaught Place office is the more of the two. h pushy fellows will try to cart you off to shops, to cart you off will try to shops, pushy fellows or ‘official’ tourist offices (the agencies travel is India Tourism tourist office only official they earn commission ), where above Delhi, by pestered being at your expense. If you’re seek touts or face other problems, out the jeeps clearly marked ‘tourist police’, who have India Tourism Delhi India Tourism Delhi DANGERS & ANNOYANCES from many reports Lonely Planet receives been victim to at least who have travellers Delhi. scams operating in of a number one of touts, usually around Most scams involve as Connaught Place, Paha- tourist hubs such Delhi train station. and the New These rganj Tourist Information Tourist Information usually many (profit-driven, the Beware of pos- and others agencies substandard) travel in Delhi. ing as ‘tourist information centres’ Do below. Touts India Tourism Delhi, listed may (falsely) with this claim to be associated office. ist offices ask at India Tourism Delhi, or dial the operator on Delhi PhotoCompany Kinsey Bros Rama Color Post & Telephone you kiosks where telephone of Delhi has loads and international interstate local, can make than hotels). calls (cheaper DHL Post offices .incredibleindia.org); .incredibleindia.org); Marg;

Pahar- 24623738; Khan Market 26110101; 23719506; (Aiims; Map (Aiims; % 23211819; % % 25653439; % (Map pp132-3 ; 23342171; Hotel 32604579; G8 Con- (Baluja Forex; Map (Baluja Forex; 23342171; Hotel % ( (Map p136 ; % % 24hr) % 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to (Map pp120-1 ; Vasant Vihar); ; Vasant pp120-1 (Map (Map pp120-1 ; ; pp120-1 (Map h h (Map p140 ; p140 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map 26925858; Mathura Sarita Rd, Vihar) 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) 23315322; N-Block, Connaught Place; (Map p136 ; 9A Phelps Bldg); p136 (Map (Amex; Map p136 ; p136 (Amex; Map DELHI •• Dangers & Annoyances (Map p136 ; p136 (Map % 24hr) Near the Hotel Marina.24hr) Near the Hotel h h (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map ( % (Map ; pp132-3 international airport (Map p136 ; Connaught Place); p136 (Map

h 26588700; Ansari26588700; Nagar) Janpath 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) Numer- 41541523; 4596 Main Bazaar, Paharganj; Basant Lok complex

%

h % (Map p140; Main Bazaar, Paharganj) Connaught Place

New Delhi train station (Map p136 ; p136 (Map 24hr) 24hr); 23355061; Sita World Travels, 12 F-Block, Connaught 8.30am-7.30pm) Also does cash advances on Master- 23365525; Baba Kharak23365525; Baba Singh Marg) 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Has a foreign-exchange counter. (Map p140 ; Rajguru Rd) p140 (Map (Map p140 ; Rajguru Rd, Paharganj) Next to Hotels p140 (Map

h h A-Block, Connaught Place; 2.30pm Sat) Also has an Amex-only ATM. h Sat); Janpath, Janpath; Janpath, Janpath; % Place; ous branches citywide. Roxy and Kelson. naught Place; able options: For photographic services (including digital) some depend- and passport photos, these are Photography Photography Western Union (Head Office) INTERNATIONAL TRANSFERS TRANSFERS INTERNATIONAL ThomasCook ThomasCook Delhi Tourism & Transport Development Corpora- tion Chequepoint Foreign Exchange Central Bank of India p140 ; h Card and Visa. American Express FOREIGN CURRENCY & TRAVELLERS FOREIGN CURRENCY & TRAVELLERS CHEQUES UTI HDFC ICICI Citibank ATMS ATMS – these are wildfire like spreading are ATMs possibilities: of just a smattering pp120-1 ; pp120-1 KailashB-28 Greater Part N-Block Market. I) Opposite Money East West Medical Centre Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital Apollo Hospital Apollo Pharmacy All India InstituteAll India Medical of Sciences lonelyplanet.com % Ashok Hotel, Chanakyapuri; (Map pp132-3 ) ganj cnr C- & K-Blocks DELHI ised in ised cash, insistongetting whatyou’ve prom- been Finally, before partingwithyourhard-earned the IndianAssociation of TourOperators. as theTravel Agents Association of Indiaand are members of accredited associationssuch exactly what’sonoffer agents andchoose who To avoid grief,alwaysshop aroundtogauge being hoodwinked byunscrupulousagents. cies, asscores of travellers have reported and Janpath. ternational airport,NewDelhitrainstation attouristcentresstationed includingthein- 126 Always exercise cautionwithtravel agen- of there areyou intothinking riotsinDelhiwiththehiddenagendaofbundlingyouofftoahotel commission andyougetaninflated roomrate. Anotherscaminvolves thedriver frightening You’re thendroppedoffatanotherhotel Bagh)where (often thedriver inKarol receives afat withthedriver.have wheninreality areservation tosomeoneincahoots you’ve beentalking office where someoneelsecallsthehotel onyourbehalf. You’re inevitablytoldthatyoudon’t With thisscam,eitherthedriver phonesyourhotel (orsoyouthink),or,you’re offtoan whisked beforemay insistyouneedtoconfirmyourhotel arriving–complete actually booking hogwash! sneakydrivers especiallyattheinternational airport; Touts maycomeintheformoftaxi-wallahs, DODGING THEDODGY as drivers seemtohave a perpetuallackofsmall change. tricksters. humbly claimthey’re studentsmerely wantingtoimprove theirEnglish–99% are commission seekoutagenuineshoeshiner.around Rs25forapolish.Ifyourshoes getpoo-splotched, oftenshoeshiners have products, laidoutonthefootpath, andcharge abox fullofshoe-cleaning amount). Lookoutforthesetricksters inadvance–theyhave minimalequipmentwhereas genuine ago. The responsible shoeshiner (whoisactually for it)offers toremove it(foraridiculouslyhigh grabs yourattention bypointing toagooeysplotchonyourshoethatwasn’tthere seconds and taxibooths. of thestation,avoidoverpriced conveyance by headingforthecarpark’sprepaid autorickshaw passengers thatthere’s acharge status–don’tfallforit.Onceout tochecktheirreservation (foraheftyfee)to bestamped/checked before it’svalid.Somemaytrytoconvincewait-listed p157 ), isn’tbeingrenovated needs swindlersmayinsistyourticket andhasn’tshifted. Other road. Make the assumptionthatofficeis road. Make Bureau youtoone ofthe(overpriced anddivert and often unreliable) travel agenciesover the attheupstairsInternational tickets Touristtrain stationtoutsmaytrytostopyoufrombooking sure you’re attherightdestination. offload passengersatplaceswhere theyreceive commission–don’tpaythefare untilyouare your driver youtothehotel/shop hasindeedtaken yourequested, assomecunninglytryto politely declineoffers tovisithotels that orshopsoftheirchoice. Italsopaystodouble-check earn commission.Autorickshaw drivers are so inthecommissionracket, alsooften knee-deep seemingly concernedagentpromptlyfindsyouanotherhotel, where heandthetaxidriver both Thethe scam)supposedlydialsyourhotel andinformsyouthatyourroomisdouble-booked. driver mayclaimthathe’slostandstopatatravel agencyfordirections. The agent(alsoinon EH • Dnes&Anyne DELHI ••Dangers&Annoyances Finally, it’sagoodideatoalwayscarry smalldenominations(i.e. anythingbelowRs50notes), about(oftenSteer aroundConnaughtPlace),someofwhom clearofyoungmen lurking The ‘shitontheshoe’scaminConnaughtPlacehasdeclinedbutnotvanished. Ashoeshiner Train stations also attract rapacioustrickstersTrain stationsalsoattract whofeed offthetouristtraffic. At theNewDelhi his writing choice inanallegedlysafe area (again,where hereceives commission).Alternatively, the –thiswillbeinvaluable ifyou never should read p1161 . from Delhi;alsoread p352 probably bestnottobook tours toKashmir the numberof complaintswe’ve received, it’s with farlessdelivered Given thanpromised. givenbeen avery raw(often dodgy)deal, in mosttravellers discover they’ve ‘special package’ trip.Once orstand-alone tourstaking toKashmir, eitheraspartof a talked byDelhitravel agents andtoutsinto office orpolice. tolodgeneed acomplaintwiththetourist closed(outsideofficialopeninghours;see For shopping scams, see For shopping scams, see p1132 . Women More andmore travellers are beingsweet-

n p357. and lonelyplanet.com DELHI 127 (Drum , constructed of of , constructed (Covered Bazaar). (Covered Naubat Khana was where the em- was where Indian Mu- takes its name from the takes upstairs. The open courtyard The open courtyard upstairs. opposite Gate (the Lahore (the opposite Gate Chatta Chowk main gate (admission Rs 2) Hall of Private Audiences

Hall of Public Audiences ticket kiosk You enter the fort through here and im- the fort through here You enter You can purchase tickets to the fort from fort from to the You can purchase tickets po- many landmark Since Independence, The arcade leads to the The 10m-deep been has which moat, bone- white marble, was the luxurious chamber marble, was the luxurious chamber white meet- private the emperor would hold where was once the magnifi- ings. The centrepiece and jewel-studded Peacock cent solid-gold India by out of Throne, but it was taken in 1739. In 1760 the Marathas Nadir Shah ceiling from the hall, the silver also removed beyond the Drum House formerly had galler- removed ies along either side, but these were by the British army when the fort was used as its headquarters. Diwan-i-Am The from his subjects. peror would hear disputes in the wall was marble panelled His alcove which many of stones, and set with precious following the Indian Uprising. looted were following a directive The hall was restored India between by Lord Curzon, the of 1898 and 1905. Diwan-i-Khas The The fort’s Lahore,fact that it faces towards now in Pa- India, modern kistan. symbol of It’s a potent because during the fight for independence was a nationalist as- rule, there from British the piration to see flag flying over the Indian in 1947. became reality – the dream gate arcade the vaulted in find yourself mediately known as the that once sold items shops here The arcade of the royal household might fancy – silks, jewel- lery and gold. performed for musicians once House), where an There’s the emperor. seum dry since 1857, was originally crossed on crossed originally 1857, was dry since on but these were drawbridges, wooden creaky in 1811. bridges with stone replaced the main gate). place at the fort and taken litical speeches have every Day (15 August) year on Independence to the address it hosts the prime minister’s nation. Gate Lahore ; like ; like , dedicated to , dedicated Ashoka Pillar stands rather forlornly, , at the northern end of the , at the northern end of (Indian/foreigner Rs 10/US$2, video Rs (Indian/foreigner

Mutiny Memorial DELHI •• Sights fort 9am-6pm Tue-Sun) 9am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Kashmiri Gate h The Red Fort dates from the very peak of peak of from the very The Red Fort dates The walls of the fort extend for 2km and for 2km and the fort extend The walls of

The old walled city of Shahjahanabad Shahjahanabad The old walled city of Behave and dress conservativelyBehave and dress whenever Shuttling between attractions is quickest is quickest attractions between Shuttling walled city, was the scene of desperate fight- desperate walled city, was the scene of Delhi during the ing when the British retook was a short one, however; was the Mughal emperor to rule and last great first from here. Mughal power. The Mughal reign from Delhi The Mughal reign Mughal power. new city of Shahjahanabad in Delhi because Shahjahanabad new city of Fort he was deposed and imprisoned in Agra by his sly son Aurangzeb. completely moved his capital from Agra to his to his capital from Agra moved completely to 33m on the city side. Shah Jahan began Jahan Shah to 33m on the city side. fort in 1638 and the massive construction of never Jahan in 1648. Shah completed it was vary in height from 18m on the river side side vary in height from 18m on the river though, he and the fort that he built were a though, that he built were he and the fort pomp and power. grandiose display of atop an elephant into the streets of Old Delhi, of atop an elephant into the streets This massive This massive 25; RED FORT (LAL QILA) RED FORT (LAL QILA) the one in Firoz Shah Kotla, it was brought Shah the one in Firoz Firoz Shah. by here the soldiers who died during the Uprising. who died during the soldiers Near the monument is an 1857 Indian Uprising. West of here is the is the here 1857 Indian Uprising. West of British-erected one time surrounded by a sturdy defensive a sturdy defensive one time surrounded by exist. now which wall, only fragments of The stretches west from the Red Fort and was at west from the Red Fort stretches this fascinating area justice. All of the attrac- All of justice. this fascinating area . p128 on Map tions in this section feature Unruly Old Delhi has a wonderfully raw and Unruly Setunique charm. at least half a day to do aside Old Delhi Old Delhi visiting places of worship. visiting places of on Sunday, when there’s less traffic – you’ll when there’s on Sunday, as close the crowds if you arrive usually beat that many Note as possible. to opening times and that US-dollar shut on Monday are sites payable in the rupee are admission charges equivalent. in Old Delhi and in the vicinity of New Delhi’s New Delhi’s and in the vicinity of in Old Delhi Connaught Place. SIGHTS SIGHTS found predominantly sights are major Delhi’s lonelyplanet.com a sandstone carcass of its former self.a sandstone When carcass of the fort out of paraded Jahan Emperor Shah Ὀ

DELHI of Thefloors upasasauna. which was set inthecentredomes, with afountain –one (baths) –three large roomssurmounted by areNext totheDiwan-i-Khas the Royal Baths glory. so todayit’sonlyapaleshadow of itsformer 128

Lala Hardev Sahai

4 1 3 2 5 OLD DELHI See Paharganj La Court

Khari Baoli Train Station Map (p140) New Delhi NH1

EH • Sgt Marg DELHI ••Sights Katra Bariyan

Nicholson Rd Gokhale Marg

6

40 Tilak Kucha Gali ὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆ 33 ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ New Delhi

Bhavbuti Rd Club Rd AC Shyama Prasad (SP) Mukherjee Marg Mukherjee (SP) Prasad Shyama Lambi

Ajmeri Gali

Gate

Zorawar Singh Marg Singh Zorawar Radial Rd 5 Marg Nehru Jawaharlal

Park Tilak Gali Tilak Khas Mahal...... Kashmiri Gate...... Jama Masjid...... Indian WarMemorialMuseum.. Fatehpuri Masjid...... Diwan-i-Khas...... Diwan-i-Am...... Digambara JainTemple...... Chatta Chowk...... Bird Hospital...... (see3) B3 Delhi PublicLibrary...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Delhi TrainStation Chowri

Bazaar Chandni (Old Delhi) Town

Chowri Bazaar Hall

Yamuna Rd

32 Shandara Arya Samaj Rd Sarak Nai

Qudsia

Asaf Ali Rd Ali Asaf Mal

ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ

Lwara Bagh

Ramlal Marg

Chandhok Gali Grounds

1 Ramlila 31

Car Parts 26

Turkman Rd RD) (MG Rd Ring Bazaar

39

Lothian Rd Lothian Safru

Prem Narain 27

Chel Puri Rd Sarai More

HC Sen Rd Sen HC Sitaram Bazaar Sitaram Kinari Footbridge B 25 23 10

9 35

hammams Kotwali 36 Mahal 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Turkman Matya Gurdwara

C3 B2 B4 C3 A3 C3 C3 B3 C3 Bazaar

28 Marg Nehru Jawaharlal Gate Sisganj 34

8

29 Chitli Qabar Rd Qabar Chitli To MaidensHotel(800m); Chandni Chowk ὆὆ ὆὆ Ticket Kiosk...... Sunehri Masjid...... Shanti Vana...... Shahi Burj...... Royal Baths...... Red Fort(LalQila)...... Rang Mahal...... Raj Ghat...... Naubat Khana...... (see7) National GandhiMuseum...... Mumtaz Mahal...... ...... Lahore Gate...... Museum ofArchaeology...... (see13) Bazaar Meena

Esplanade Rd Ashoka Pillar(1.8km)

Urdu Mutiny Memorial& Park ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ 3 Rd) (MG Rd Ring 37 Cemetery

Lothian

Subhash

Netaji Subhash Marg Netaji Subhash Netaji

Park Kasturba Hospital Hospital Kasturba

was once Shah Jahan’s private working area. located atthenortheastern edge of thefort This modest,three-storey, octagonal BurjShahi panelsofthrough coloured glassintheroof. inlay work),andtheroomswere illuminated were onceinlaidwith Dakhni Rai St Rai Dakhni 24 To IndiaGate 22 (3km) 11 30 2 38 21

Salimgarh Netaji Subhash Marg Subhash Netaji Rd Vana Shanti

Fort

Parda

Delhi Marg Gate River Bagh Yamuna Delhi Gate

Daya Nand Rd 17

Bharat Ram Rd 0.5miles 800m 0 0 Ὀ Ὀ Hindi

Park Ansari Rd Ansari 7 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 Dr Ambedkar Bus Station 12 4 C3 C4 D4 C3 C3 C3 C3 D5 D5 C3 C3 C3 13 16 19 18 10

Makhaan La

5 Ansari Rd Ansari Spice Market...... Nai Sarak...... Musical InstrumentShops...... Lajpat RaiMarket...... Kinari Bazaar...... Delhi MusicalStores...... ...... Cloth Market...... Chowri Bazaar...... WaliGali...... Karim’s...... Jalebiwala...... Haldiram’s...... ...... Chor Bizarre...... (see24) Hotel NewCityPalace...... Hotel Broadway...... Hotel BombayOrient...... oiMhl...... C5 Moti Mahal...... SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING 14 pietra dura Shahjahanabad Old Wallsof Vijay Ghat Memorial Ring Rd (MG Rd) Gandhi lonelyplanet.com 20 Shanti Vana D 15 Darshan Shakti Gandhi Sthal (marble 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 tower Bhumi Vir B4 C5 B4 A3 B4 C5 B3 B3 B4 B3 A3 B4 B3 B4 B3 B3 B3

DELHI . 129 of black black of Sunehri Masjid 23311793; admission platform

% ( contains assorted (camera/video each Rs 150; Rs 150; (camera/video each

is the largest in India in India is the largest mosque (Forest of Peace), in 1964. Nehru’s 1964. Nehru’s in Peace), of (Forest 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) National Gandhi Museum h non-Muslims 8.30am-12.30pm & 1.45pm-30min before non-Muslims & 1.45pm-30min before 8.30am-12.30pm The Raj Ghat area is now a beautiful park. is now The Raj Ghat area Visitors should remove their shoes at the should remove Visitors Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Indian prime the first Nehru, Jawaharlal For Rs 20 it’s possible to climb the southern For Rs 20 it’s possible to nated in 1984, and grandsons Sanjay (who nated also died in 1980) and Rajiv (died 1991) were in this vicinity. cremated The free; memorabilia, mostly photos. top of the stairs (pay the shoeminder the stairs 5 Rs top of guides in- fake upon collection). Beware of the mosque to enter a charge sisting there’s a guide, to hire wish If you (admission is free). ask to see accreditation. RAJ GHAT the the Red Fort, on the banks of South of a simple square Yamuna, Gan- Mahatma marble marks the spot where following his assassination dhi was cremated in 1948. north, at just to the was cremated minister, Shanti Vana Indira Gandhi, who was assassi- daughter, 1658. It has three gateways, four angle towers angle towers four gateways, 1658. It has three standing 40m high, and is and two strips of vertical alternating of constructed The main sandstone marble. and white red No 3. The mosque’s entry point is Gate 25,000 courtyard can hold a mind-blowing people. (women must be accompanied by a male; sometimes unaccompanied men may the views are where also not be permitted), you can the minaret, superb. From the top of Edwin architect that see the features one of New his design of into Lutyens incorporated Connaught Place Masjid, Delhi – the Jama House) are (Parliament and Sansad Bhavan line. in a direct SUNEHRI MASJID MASJID SUNEHRI the Red Fort is the of Just south stood invader, the Persian Shah, In 1739 Nadir macabrely this mosque and of on the roof mas- conduct a bloody his soldiers watched Delhi’s inhabitants. of sacre MASJID JAMA This stunning h sunset, closed noon-2pm Fri) opus magnum and the final architectural the mosque of Construction Jahan. Shah of until completed began in 1644, but it wasn’t Di- in Fatehpuri

(donations ap- (admission Rs 2)

re-creates events of events of re-creates bird hospital , made of marble, is is marble, , made of in English 7.30pm Nov-Jan, 8.30pm in English 7.30pm Nov-Jan, which has narrow lanes which here is run by the Jains, is run by the Jains, here (remove shoes and leather (remove (Palace of Colour), further of (Palace , still further south along , still further south along h DELHI •• Sights , south of the Diwan-i-Khas, , south of 10am-5pm) Pearl Mosque Pearl h Rang Mahal Chandni Chowk Museum of Archaeology . (admission Rs 50; KhasMahal

Mumtaz Mahal Relics from the Mughal era are displayed Relics from the Mughal era are The The western end of Chandni Chowk is Chandni Chowk is end of The western Masjid marked by the mid-17th-century by the marked before entering). The entering). before Chandni Chowk, there’s the 16th-century the Chandni Chowk, there’s gambara Jain Temple snaking off it. At the eastern (Red Fort) end of (Red Fort) end of it. At the eastern snaking off CHANDNI CHOWK CHOWK CHANDNI con- is the chronically Old Delhi’s backbone gested at the India Tourism Delhi office ( p125 ). p125 ( at the India Tourism Delhi office the fort’s ticket kiosk or from the Indian Tour- kiosk or from the Indian the fort’s ticket ism Development Corporation (ITDC) counter India’s history, particularly those associated from available are with the Red Fort. Tickets Each evening (except Monday) this one-hour show & Sep-Oct, 9pm May-Aug)Feb-Apr Sound-&-Light Show Sound-&-Light Show the the wall. the eastern at the The water flowing along the channel from the flowing along the channel The water BurjShahi used to end up here. there’s an exquisitely carved an exquisitely there’s marble lotus. was the emperor’s private palace. It was di- palace. was the emperor’s private sleeping and vided into rooms for worship, living. from its painted south again, took its name was once This is now gone. which interior, and wife the emperor’s chief of the residence he dined. On the floor in the centre is where Other Features Other Features The while the inner walls are slightly askew, so slightly askew, while the inner walls are orientation correct that the mosque has the with Mecca. mosque is that its outer walls are oriented oriented are walls mosque is that its outer the fort, of the rest exactly in symmetry with enclosed the of One curious feature next to the baths. Moti Masjid Moti Masjid own per- by Aurangzeb for his Built in 1659 sonal use security, and totally the small and From here, water used water through flow south to here, From the Diwan-i-Khas, Baths, the Royal the Khas and on to the RangMahal Mahal. lonelyplanet.com who believe in the preservation all life. of preciated; preciated; DELHI of India,thepalacelike gardens – were to be refined over theyears to by abulbous domeandsurrounded byformal topped arched entrances thatletinlight, high ments initsdesign –asquatbuildingwith emperor Mughal the second Humayun. Ele- Haji the Persian-born Begum, wife senior of ture. Itwasbuiltinthemid-16thcenturyby brilliant exampleof early architec-Mughal video Rs25; This must-see HUMAYUN’S TOMB in diameter. ing isacircular,colonnadedstructure 171m Sansad Bhavan governmentdomes, nowhouse ministries. imposingbuildings,toppedwithsmall These are Hill. oneither sideof onRaisina Rajpath to chase awaybirds. deners alone,50of whomwere boysemployed Thereand gardenswascolossal. were 418gar- its340rooms tomaintain needed of servants Mountbatten, India’slastviceroy,thenumber was theviceroy’sresidence. Atthetimeof Tourism Delhi( p125 ). February/March India –fordates contact prohi daysinbited) tothepublicforseveral hectares, open(admissionfree; photography To itswest,the (President’s wascompleted in1929. House), fiasco.1919 Afghan Frontier operationsof timeandthe thesame soldiers whodiedinWWI,theNorthwest pays tribute toaround90,000Indianarmy Hill. knownasRaisina small rise, three buildingssitupona buildings. These van, which isflanked bytwolarge Secretariat Bha- while atthewestern endisRashtrapati of theRetreatBeating on29January. 26JanuaryRepublic Dayparadeevery andthe Lutyens’ NewDelhi.Ithoststhespectacular Englisharchitectthe Raj-appointed Edwin Broad RAJPATH on Map pp132–3 . All of feature theattractionsinthissection Central Delhi 130 Standing attheendof MargStanding Sansad is The northandsouth BhavanPre-Independence, Rashtrapati residenceThe official of thepresident At theeastern endof isIndiaGate, Rajpath EH • Sgt DELHI ••Sights Rajpath h , a 42m-high stonememorialarch,, a42m-high dawn-dusk) (Parliament Thebuild- House). (Kingsway)isanotherfocusof tomb Mughal

, off Mathura, off Rd,isa (Indian/foreigner Rs10/US$5, Secretariat buildings Secretariat Rashtrapati occupy130

sion free) Rs 5/US$2,video25; Marg; admissionfree, camera/video free/prohibited; Marg; this poignant Paying tribute totheFather of theNation, GANDHI SMRITI Qila-i-Kuhran Mosque from which helater died.Justbeyonditisthe injuries in 1556thatheslippedandsustained was whiledescendingthestairs of thistower Mandal red-sandstonesmall, octagonal, tower,the before Humayunregained controlof India. pleted the fort duringhisreign (1538–45), sovereignty bydefeating Humayun, com- Sher Shah, whobrieflyinterrupted Mughal ancient Indraprastha( p45 ruler, ). TheAfghan Qila With massive wallsandthree gateways, example of Lodiarchitecture. a gate totheleftof theentranceandisafine marble tomb. andblack-and-yellow and-white sandstone Taj Mahal. Haji isburiedinthered- Begum createeventually themagnificenceof Agra’s museum SUPREME COURT OFINDIAMUSEUM chappals and otherpersonal (sandals) items. spinningwheel, his walkingstick,spectacles, days isalsoopentothepublic.Ondisplay are Palace.with thekingatBuckingham from Gandhi’slife, including his1931meeting minifigurinesdepictingscenes glass-encased of of isaseries In anothersection themuseum upwhenpeoplejoinhands. ness’, which lights exhibition thatincludesthe‘Pillarof Casteless- animation filmandhasariveting multimedia ‘Hey (OhGod). Ram’ Martyr’s Column.Gandhi’slastwordswere is marked byasmallpavilion knownas the and leadtothespotwhere hedied,which crete footsteps represent Gandhi’sfinalsteps a Hinduzealoton30January 1948.Con- where Mahatma Gandhi wasshotdeadby 2ndSatofmonth) 1.30pm &2-5pmTue-Sun, closedevery The octagonal is through isthrough tombof Khan The octagonal Isa Showcasing India’sjudicialhistory,this small The roomwhere Gandhispenthisfinal144 The impressive runsashort indoormuseum There’s asmall Entering the fromthesouthgate you’llsee

(Old Fort; (Old Fort; , later used byHumayunasalibrary.It , later used justinsidethemaingate.

( % % 23388942; Supreme Court ofIndia,Tilak 23388942; Supreme Court Marg; memorial 24353178; Mathura Rd;Indian/foreigner 24353178; Mathura h archaeological museum archaeological , orMosqueof Sher Shah. dawn-dusk) (

% 23012843; 5Tees January lonelyplanet.com wasthesite of h (admis-

Purana 10am- is Sher DELHI

dawn- 131

(Aurob- h (devo- tomb kirtan Gurdwara Bangla was constructed at was constructed 9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) , displaying some of her , displaying some of Archaeological Survey of India h 4am-9pm) h 23010094; 1 Safdarjang Rd; admission free; 23010094; 1 Safdarjang Rd; admission free; % (

(Ashoka Rd;

is one of the last examples of Mughal the last examples of is one of 23010822; Janpath; 9.30am-4.45pm Tue-Sun) When collecting audio-guides, you’ll have you’ll have audio-guides, When collecting Next door is the museum % architecture before the final remnants of the of the final remnants before architecture collapsed. empire great INDIRA GANDHI MEMORIAL MUSEUM Gandhi is now Indira of former residence The a h belongings, including the blood- personal stained was was wearing when she sari she also newspa- are There in 1984. assassinated and photos. On the way per clippings, letters GURDWARA BANGLA SAHIB GURDWARA BANGLA SAHIB the Topped with gold , Sahib the eighth Sikh where guru, Harkrishan the site Dev, 1664. This guru in spent several months des- his time to helping the most of dedicated healing for his and sick and was revered titute the gurdwara a tank of on the premises powers; cura- (Sikh contains said temple) water have to properties. Soul-warming tive drift from the temple. tional songs) often SAFDARJANG’S TOMB for his father, Avadh Built by the Nawab of Safdarjang, this mid-18th-century indo Marg; Rs 5/US$2, video Rs 25; Indian/foreigner dusk) (including Portuguese, Dutch and Danish), Portuguese,(including Danish), and Dutch (including and weapons paintings miniature yourself at Give from AD 1739). a battle-axe a half-day – preferably hours – to least a few India’s finest. this museum, one of explore identification personal form of to deposit some back the when you give will be returned which prohibited. headsets. cameras are Video ( India’s main stocks publications about which sites. and 23371641; is accessed

% (

which

, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) museum h (elaborate balcony) from (elaborate . Exhibits include rare relics relics . Exhibits include rare 23019272; Janpath; Indian/foreigner Rs 23019272; Janpath; Indian/foreigner DELHI •• Sights 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) 10am-5pm % (

h If you’re in town during summer, top-end hotels ( p144 ) – with their igloo-cold air-conditioning ) – with their igloo-cold air-conditioning p144 in town during summer, top-end ( hotels If you’re you can casually ), where above the Crafts Museum ( escape from the rat race is Another great museum 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) URBAN JUNGLE RETREATS URBAN JUNGLE RETREATS Raucous touts, can be incredibly Delhi, with its suffocating crowds, snarling traffic and bothersome ). opposite ), Safdarjang’s tomb ( ) and India Gate During the cooler months, retreat solace. some scenic spots to steal are there Thankfully frazzling. p161 p129 ), Qutb Minar), Raj ( Ghat ( p137 opposite ), ( to the pleasant grounds of Humayun’s Tomb ( p134 ), Lodi Garden ( above ( coffee most with 24-hour your batteries, spots to recharge rejuvenating – are and lavish interiors ). p151 comfort ( Air-conditioned can also be found at Delhi’s modern cineplexes shops. peruse the galleries and watch visiting artisans turn mud into masterpieces. Photography is only allowed with prior is only allowed with prior Photography Peruse the well-presented galleries which the well-presented Peruse sculptures, musical instruments, old coins musical instruments, old coins sculptures, antiquities (including silk paintings from the tribal masks, 1st century AD), Indian textiles, h Civilisation, Central Asian from the Harappan lent price10/300, foreigner includes audio-guides in English/Hindi/ Rs 20/300; French/Japanese/German; camera Indian/foreigner Thousands of historic artefacts are on dis- are historic artefacts Thousands of this excel- in the spacious galleries of play NATIONAL MUSEUM MUSEUM NATIONAL permission. tury wooden shop sellsGujarat. The on-site quality crafts. silver jewellery, tribal masks, paintings and ter- jewellery, tribal silver 18th-cen- also a huge racotta figurines. There’s house more than 20,000 exhibits from aroundhouse more woodwork, oldIndia, including metalware, life’ complex and is certainly a soothing escape life’ from the city madness. craft stalls where artisans sell direct to buyers. to buyers. artisans sellcraft stalls direct where ‘village yet enjoyable, contrived, a It’s part of shaded, exhibit-packed shaded, exhibit-packed Bhairon Marg; admission free; CRAFTS MUSEUM MUSEUM CRAFTS is this delightful tree- Near Photography is prohibited. Photography original manuscripts of landmark cases includ- original manuscripts of Gandhi. ing the assassination Mahatma case of contains two interesting galleries. One gallery contains interesting two India’s justice the evolutionhas a focus on of back to the Indus Valley harks which system, (3500 BC).civilization The second is gallery Courts and Supreme Federal to the dedicated including an early-20th-centurywith exhibits and Raj-era judges portraits of chair, judge’s admission free; free; admission Gate), Rd (opposite from Mathura lonelyplanet.com Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

DELHI 132 & Towers(1.5km); Maurya SheratonHotel To Dublin(1.5km); 3 Chanakyapuri 4 6 1 3 2 5 CENTRAL DELHI 29

23 Chandragupta Marg

EH • CnrlDli DELHI ••CentralDelhi 15

Marg

Nyaya Southern RidgeForest

Kwame Nkrumah Kwame Marg Panchsheel Marg Panchsheel Chanakyapuri

ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Train Station

Safdarjang 2 Rd Cross Cross Rd 3 Rd Cross A 28

Niti Marg

Service Malcha Marg Malcha 4 7 Diplomatic Delhi Club

Nyaya Marg Polo Enclave 72 20 Rd Sardar Patel 17

10

16 32 Marg Kautilya 8

Shantipath Nyaya Marg Keventer La Keventer 68

24 Marg Willingdon Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ

Niti Marg President's Cres Estate 27

Brig Hoshiar Singh Rd 2 31 Nehru Park B

Cross Rd 1

Panchsheel Teen Murti Rd

Gardens Mughal Kautilya Marg Kautilya Sarojini Nagar Train Station Talkatora Gardens

Vinay Marg 5 81 Marg St Park Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ 48 47

South Ave Rd Dalhousie

51 North Ave

Teen Murti Rd Murti Teen Kushak Rd Marg Thyagaraj 6 Teen Murti La Baba Kharak Singh Marg Aerodrome Safdarjang Kamal Racecourse Rd Brassey Ave

Racecourse Rd Church Rd Talkatora

C Ataturk Racecourse Lakshmibai Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Nagar Rd

Lake Park Rajaji Marg

Safdarja 40 55

54 Secretariat Kamraj La Kamraj Pandit Pant Rd Central

22

Krishna Menon La Rd Mahadev 53

Safdarjang Rd Safdarjang ng

La Krishna Menon Marg Menon Krishna 42

Kamraj Rd 37

Chowk Vijay

Raisina Rd Rd Cross Red Ashoka Rd Ashoka 52 Sansad Marg 69 84

Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

Tughlaq Rd Tughlaq Tughlaq Rd lonelyplanet.com Sunehri Bagh Rd Bagh Sunehri

Aurangzeb Rd Rafi Ahmed Kidwai Marg

Karbala Rd Karbala Aurobindo Marg

Tees January Marg January Tees Rafi Marg D Rd Nehru Motilal Maulana Azad Rd Azad Maulana 62

36 Dr Rd Prasad Rajendra Dr Jor Bagh Rd Bagh Jor Tughlaq La Jor Bagh Chowk 45

Patel Akbar Rd Rajpath Colony INA Train Station Lodi Colony Prithviraj Rd Amrita Shergil Marg South End La Lodi Rd Meena

Bagh

Jorbagh C Jorbagh Jantar Mantar Rd

13 olony Rd olony DELHI 5 2 3 1 6 4 133

500 m Harsha Rd 0.3 miles To Sarai Kale Akshardham Ring Rd (MG Rd) Temple (13.5km) Khan ISBT (1km); Nizamuddin Train Station

H Guide Rd Guide 38 Indraprastha

East

Arab Ki Sarai Rd Sarai Ki Arab

Temple Rd Temple Scout ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Nizamuddin Saman Rd

Train Station Bharat Pragati Maidan Bhogal 46 0 0 Masjid Rd Gardens)

(National Mathura Rd Delhi Zoo

Zoological 50 Rd Hospital Qila Purana 34 West Pragati Maidan 49 26 11

Bhairon Marg 60 ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ

82 Hakikat Hai Rd Hai Hakikat Nizamuddin Pragati Maidan

Nagar 59

Sunder 66 G Mathura Rd Mathura Shastri Rd 56 63 Lake Mathura Rd Boating Lal Bahadur

Dr Zakir Hussain Marg 85 Court

Supreme 64 Tilak Marg Tilak

Kaka

Nagar Khushak Nalah Khushak Oak Park Scope Silver Tower Tilak Bridge Train Station

Rd

Stadium

Sikandra Rd National

Purana Qila Rd Qila Purana Delhi Rd Lodi Rd ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Safdar High Court Hashmi

Sher Shah43 Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium Rd Stadium Nehru Jawaharlal 35 Club 76 Course & Nehru Delhi Golf

Bhagwan Das Rd Stadium Jawaharial Gate

Jaipur

Mandi House Dr Zakir Hussain Marg Copernicus Marg Copernicus Archbishop Makarious Rd

Garud Rd

F Pandara Rd Pandara 25 75 77

21 Central Golf Link Rd 71 Gate India 83

Arch War Subramaniam Bharti Rd Bharti Subramaniam

Tansen Marg ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Canning Rd Canning Pandara Market 39 Park Maharshi Raman Marg Memorial 57 Pandara Sewa Nagar

Kasturba Gandhi Marg Train Station 80 Br Mehta La Mehta Br

79

9

Shahjahan Rd Shahjahan

Wakil La Wakil 70 Jor Bagh Rd Bagh Jor

Jaswant Singh Rd Singh Jaswant Humayun Rd 19

Hailey Rd Hailey Lodi

Centre Man Singh Rd Singh Man Colony

DELHI •• Central Delhi 67 18

Prithviraj La India Habitat Fourth Ave 74 Lodi

Max Mueller Marg Colony 78 14 E 12

Third Ave ὈὈ

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ 1

RP La 33

Firoz Shah Rd Shah Firoz Third Ave Prithviraj Rd Prithviraj 58 41

44

73 Second Ave Janpath Rd Lodi

Tolstoy Marg Place Nehru 30 Motilal Garden 61 65 South End

lonelyplanet.com

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ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ DELHI din Chishti,whodiedin1325,aged 92. The Shah Jahan andtherenowned Urdupoet, the later grave of Jahanara, of thedaughter of ( Tughlaqabad p161 ). Othertombsinclude andtheconstructor dispute the saint between construction of ignited Nizam-ud-din’stank a ( Across from Humayun’s tombisthe NIZAM-UD-DIN’S SHRINE readassassination, p52 . spot she fell. thatsparked Forevents Gandhi’s bodyguards –theclearglassportionmarks before shotbytwoof beingfatally her Sikh which iswhere Gandhi walked moments pathway crystal out, you’llpassanenclosed 134 h SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Bara GumbadTomb...... India...... (see44) Archaeological Surveyof US Embassy...... UK Embassy...... Thomas Cook...... Thai Embassy...... Swiss Embassy...... Sri LankanHighCommission..... SOS ChildrensVillage...... Sangeet NatakAkademi...... (see25) Sahitya Akademi...... (see25) Rama Colour...... (see79) Rabindra Bhavan...... Pakistani Embassy...... New ZealandEmbassy...... (GPO)...... New DelhiMainPostOffice Nepalese Embassy...... Myanmar (Burma)Embassy...... (ForeignersDivision)...... Ministry ofHomeAffairs Max MuellerBhavan...... Malaysian Embassy...... Lalit KalaAkademi...... (see25) Japanese Embassy...... Italian Embassy...... Israeli Embassy...... Irish Embassy...... India InternationalCentre...... Income TaxOffice...... German Embassy...... Full CircleBookstore...... French Embassy...... Faqir-Chand &Sons...... (see79) Dutch Embassy...... Dr RamManoharLohiaHospital.. Cyber Graphics...... (see79) Citibank ATM...... (see79) Central BankofIndia...... Canadian Embassy...... Bhutan Embassy...... Bahri Sons...... (see79) Australian Embassy...... Alliance Française...... 24hr) EH • Sgt DELHI ••Sights of Nizam-ud- theMuslimSufisaint, 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 E4 A4 B4 E1 A5 A4 B3 G5 F1 B4 A5 C1 F1 A4 E3 E1 A5 A5 A5 E4 D5 E5 G1 A5 E4 A4 A5 C1 B4 A5 A5 B4 E5 National GalleryofModernArt.. Shervani...... Shangri-La Hotel...... Oberoi...... Maharani GuestHouse...... Lutyens GuestHouse...... Le Meridien...... La SagritaTouristHome...... Jukaso Inn...... Jorbagh 27...... Tibet House...... Museum...... Supreme CourtofIndia Secretariat (SouthBlock)...... Secretariat (NorthBlock)...... Sansad Bhavan...... Safdarjang's Tomb...... Rashtrapati Bhavan...... Purana Qila...... Nizam-ud-din's Shrine...... ...... Nehru MemorialMuseum...... National ZoologicalGardens..... National PhilatelicMuseum...... National Museum...... ofYoga...... Morarji DesaiNationalInstitute Lodi Garden...... Museum...... Indira GandhiMemorial India Gate...... Humayun's Tomb...... Hotel Samrat...... (see5) Gurdwara BanglaSahib...... Gandhi Smriti...... Delhi RidingClub...... (see52) Delhi GolfClub...... Crafts Museum...... All AmericanDiner...... Hostel...... YWCA BlueTriangleFamily Youth Hostel...... Ten...... (see 60) Taj MahalHotel...... EATING SLEEPING shrine

a popular place for a morning/evening stroll a popularplaceformorning/evening museum Located intheDakBhavan postoffice, this NATIONAL PHILATELIC MUSEUM mar thegarden’s serenity. the 15th-century tombs or jog.Withinthegroundsare thecrumbling This well-tended LODI GARDEN (inquire directly). singing) occasionallytakes placeattheshrine Amir Khusru. Qawwali (Urdu devotional Qawwali(Urdudevotional Amir Khusru. Avoid visitingonSunday,whencrowdscan of theSayyidandLodirulers, including

70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 ( % G3 E1 G4 G3 D5 E2 G3 G3 E5 F5 C2 C2 C2 D5 C2 G3 G5 B3 B4 H3 D1 E2 F3 D1 E5 F2 H5 D1 D4 F4 E5 B3 E3 G1 C4 D1 G2 23036727; Sadar Patel Chowk,SansadMarg; Kastro's...... (see 81) Complex...... Santushti Shopping Regalia TeaHouse...... (see82) Music Shop...... Mittal TeaHouse...... (see82) Lotus Eaters...... (see81) Khan Market...... Fabindia...... (see 79) Delhi ClothHouse...... (see80) C.Lal &Sons...... Anokhi...... (see 81) Anokhi (Branch)...... (see79) Triveni KalaSangam...... Shri RamCentre...... Sangeet NatakAkademi...... (see25) Kamani Auditorium...... Habitat World...... (see70) Rick's Bar...... (see67) Café Turtle...... (see9) Café CoffeeDay...... (see79) Big Chill...... (see79) Barista (Branch)...... (see9) Sugar &Spice(Branch)...... (see80) Ploof...... Pindi Restaurant...... (see71) Restaurant...... Lodi, TheGarden Khan Chacha...... (see79) Havemore...... (see 71) Gulati...... (see 71) Fujiya...... Chicken Inn...... Basil &Thyme...... (see81) Baci...... (see 82) Metropole TouristService...... AirfieldOffice)...... Indian Airlines(Safdarjang Bikaner House...... Sunder NagarMarket...... SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING TRANSPORT garden

(Lodi Rd; lonelyplanet.com . h 6am-8pm) 72 71 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 85 84 83 82 81 A4 F3 G6 D5 F3 G4 B4 F4 E4 E5 F1 F1 F1 E6 E5 is DELHI 135 26444029; 9am-6pm Tue- % (www.akshard

h , poetically shaped

was one of Maharaja Maharaja was one of (Map pp120-1 ;

(Map p136 ; Sansad Marg; Indian/for- p136 (Map temple 9am-dusk) Akshardham Temple h 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) Jantar Mantar h , a recently built structure (inaugurated in (inaugurated built structure , a recently Refrain from speaking in the temple and Refrain from speaking in the temple Allow at least half a day to do justice to this Often creating confusion, the outer circle is the outer confusion, creating Often in Connaught especially rampant Touts are are divided into blocks. It has an architectur- It has an into blocks. divided are buildings colonnaded seriesally uniform of hotels devoted restaurants, to shops, banks, and offices. chitectural elements and has exquisite domes elements and has exquisite chitectural It contains around 20,000 carvedand pillars. deities. less complex (weekdayssprawling temple are lots to see has crowded) as there’s (the website details). more lawns. The Bahai around philosophy revolves preju- peace and the elimination of universal welcome to are all faiths of Adherents dice. pray or meditate silently according to their own religion. is prohibited. that photography inside note TEMPLE AKSHARDHAM on Delhi’s outskirts is the mammoth Located and elaborate ham.com; turning, National Hwy 24; Sun) pink sandstone mar- and white 2005) made of Swaminarayan Group, of Part ble. traditional reflects this extraordinary temple Orissan, Gujarati, Mughal and Rajasthani ar- JANTAR MANTAR MANTAR JANTAR struc- curious terracotta-red Comprised of tures, eigner Rs 5/US$2; Singh II’s observatories, Jai in constructed sundial and by a huge 1725. It’s dominated houses other instruments plotting the course bodies. heavenly of Other Areas HOUSE OF WORSHIP BAHAI TEMPLE) (LOTUS This eye-catching Kalkaji; lotus, was completed an unfurling white like by well-manicured in 1986 and is flanked technically called ‘Connaught called Circus’ (divided technically circle G to N) and the inner into blocks from ‘Connaughtblocks from Place’ (divided into 1995 also a ‘Middle Circle’. In A to F). There’s Rajiv renamed circles were the inner and outer but respectively, Chowk and Indira Chowk used. rarely these names are ). p125 Place (read

(sacred (sacred 24611515; 23014504; . 9am-5.15pm % % (

( h katas has rotating exhibits more more exhibits 9.30am-4pm Sat-Thu) (Tibetan paintings (Tibetan museum h 9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon- (CP; Map p136 ) and ) and p136 (CP; Map planetarium 24359825; Mathura Rd; Indian/ h thangkas % (

10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in English 11.30am & 3pm) 23382835; Jaipur House; Indian/for- 23382835; Jaipur DELHI •• Sights 10am-5pm Mon-Fri)10am-5pm zoo h h % 23016734; admission free; 23016734; admission free; (

h % (

Connaught Place . Its photographs and newspaper clip- . Its photographs gallery

On the 1st floor is a bookshop that spe- On the 1st floor is a bookshop In the grounds is a with ceremonial items brought out of Tibet Tibet brought out of items with ceremonial museum the seven streets that radiate from it, which from it, which the seven that radiate streets The heart of New Delhi is the vast trafficThe heart of cir- cle of Connaught Place Area Connaught Place Area CONNAUGHT PLACE pos, wolves, elephants, giraffes and some truly pos, wolves, spectacular the crowned birds – don’t miss early Arrive Indian hornbill. crane and great for maximum tranquillity. as big jungle cats (including rare white ti- white as big jungle cats (including rare rhinos, hip- bears, Himalayan black gers), is a welcoming green retreat from the con- retreat is a welcoming green beasts such a bevy of There’s jungle. crete foreigner Rs 10/50, video Rs 50; foreigner NATIONAL ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS NATIONAL and courting couples, with families Popular the well-kept cialises in Buddhist titles and sells Buddhist CDs, prayer flags and chanting sculptures and old sculptures prohibited. on cloth). Photography when the Dalai Lama fled following Chinese manuscripts, occupation. Pieces include sacred 1 Lodi Rd; admission Rs 10; Fri) TIBET HOUSE TIBET HOUSE House has a small Tibet a Tue-Sun) waharlal Nehru (India’s first prime minister), prime minister), (India’s first waharlal Nehru into Murti Rd, has been converted just off Teen , the former residence of Ja- of residence the former Murti Bhavan, Teen NEHRU MEMORIAL MUSEUM & & NEHRU MEMORIAL MUSEUM PLANETARIUM watercolours and lithographs. Photography Photography and lithographs. watercolours isn’t allowed. eigner Rs 10/150; eigner Rs 10/150; 300 paintings (by than more of exhibitions oils, include tempera, which Indian artists) NATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART ART OF MODERN GALLERY NATIONAL This admission free; free; admission lonelyplanet.com Tibetan scarves).Tibetan pings offer perceptive insights Inde- into the perceptive pings offer pendence movement. than 1700 post-Independence stamps. post-Independence than 1700 Pho- prohibited. tography is 45min show Rs 15; ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

DELHI 136 Stadium (4km) To KarolBagh

Jai Singh Rd Shivaji 4 6 1 3 2 5 CONNAUGHT PLACE 27

30 Jain Mandir Rd Mandir Jain See PaharganjMap(p140) Music (400m) To RikhiRam's

55 Araya School La Shaheed Marg Singh Bhagat Shaheed EH • CnagtPae DELHI ••ConnaughtPlace Baba Kharak Singh Marg

Basant Rd

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Panchkuian Marg Panchkuian AC 70 Hanuman Rd 32 12 Sansad Marg (Parliament St) P 29 17 14 51 Connaught Train Station(200m); Circus Paharganj (1km) Building Cinema To NewDelhi

Regal Regal Basant La Basant G 62

Ὀ Janpath La 60 Underground 20 (Indira 53

46

Parking Radial Rd 3 Rd Radial Chowk)

Radial Rd 2

A Janpath La Janpath Middle B 42 43 9 2 6 16 21

H Chelmsford Rd 22

(Underground) Circle 28 68 58 Bazaar Palika B Central 34

19 Park 50 Inner 52 44

49 39 Circle

67 Janpath 37 48 Radial Rd 1 Connaught 61 7 Connaught Place 63 Radial Rd 4

Place State Entry Rd 64 4 C 54

(Rajiv Central 10 Park 25 Middle 23 59 F 47

Radial Rd 5 K N

56 Chowk) Tolstoy Marg Tolstoy 40 36 35 57 Circle 15 26

31

D Radial Rd 7 Rd Radial 13 33 41 Radial Rd 6 Connaught La

Connaught E 65 L

Bridge Minto

5 11 24 Kasturba Gandhi Marg Gandhi Kasturba

1 Circus M 38 200m 0.1miles 0 0 45

8 (Indira 3 Chowk) 18 Vivekanda Rd Gopal DasBhavan Minto Bridge Train Station 69 To IndiaGate

To OldDelhi lonelyplanet.com Barakhamba Rd Barakhamba Bhavan (1.3km) Bazaar (3.5km) Ansal Super Shankar Market D 71

Hailey Rd 66 DELHI B4 B4 C2 A4 C6 C4 B4 C4 B5 C4 B3 C4 C6 C4 D5 B5 B3 D4 A3 D4 B6 B5 A4 137 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 23316970; % (Map pp120-1 ;

. TRANSPORT SHOPPING Sahara Airlines...... Scandinavian Airlines...... (see 22) Shivaji Stadium Terminal...... Singapore Airlines...... Delhi Transport Corporation..... 66) El Al Israel Airlines...... (see Emirates...... Ex-Servicemen's Air Link Transport Service...... Gulf Air...... Indian Airlines...... 5) Jagson Airlines...... (see Japan Airlines...... Jet Airways...... 65) Kingfisher Airlines...... (see KLM - Royal Dutch Airlines...... Kumar Tourist Taxi Service...... (see 31) Lufthansa Airlines...... Malaysian Airlines...... (see 69) International Airlines..(see 71) Prepaid Autorickshaw Booth..... Prepaid Autorickshaw Booth.....(see 7) Qantas...... (see 66) Rangarsons Music Depot...... (see 31) Royal Nepal Airlines Corporation...... (see 39) Emporium...... 44) Fabindia (Branch)...... (see Market...... Janpath (Tibetan) Bhawan...... Khadi Gramodyog 41) M.Ram & Sons..(see Tailors...... (see 54) New Prominent ...... People Tree...... 20) Rikhi Ram...... (see Soma...... State Emporiums...... Aeroflot...... Air France...... Air India...... Central Cottage Industries Central museum B2 C5 B5 C5 C4 A3 B3 A5 A5 C2 A6 C3 B3 C3 C3 C4 C3 B2 B3 B3 C3 B4 C4 C2 25 26 27 28 29 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 30 45 46 47 48 40 41 42 43 44 On Sunday between 2.30pm and 4.30pm Hauz Khas is also the site of the crumbling Khas of is also the site Hauz Firoz Shah’s tomb DOLLS INTERNATIONAL SHANKAR’S MUSEUM collections the planet’s biggest of Boasting one dolls, this of the skull of an elephant that charged a train an elephant that charged the skull of in 1894, and lost. you can ride the coal-run monorail (Rs 20). VILLAGE KHAS HAUZ ) sur- pp120–1 (Map This urban ‘village’ rounded by parkland was once the reservoir Delhi – Siri – which for the second city of slightly to the east. Today, Hauz is situated Khas is a posh suburb known for its upmarket boutiques and art galleries. (Map

which which (Map pp120-1 ; (Branch)...... (see 17) (Branch)...... (see EATING Nizam's Kathi Kabab...... Parikrama...... 18) Ruby Tuesday...... (see 31) Sagar Ratna...... (see Saravana Bhavan...... Saravana Bhavan Prem Sagar Guest House...... (see 17) Guest House...... (see Prem Sagar House...... Ringo Guest Sunny Guest House...... The Connaught...... The Corus...... The Park...... YMCA Tourist Hostel...... York Hotel...... Guest YWCA International House...... 15) Banana Leaf...... (see Berco's...... Café 100...... Embassy...... Host...... 53) Kwality...... (see ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Spirit...... (see 33) PVR Plaza Cinema...... The Chinese...... United Coffee House...... Veda...... Wenger's...... Zen...... 1911...... (see 22) Barista...... (see 15) Café Coffee Day...... (see 15) Cha Bar...... (see 8) Costa...... DV8...... Q'BA...... (see 41) Regent's Blues...... was erected in was erected B2 A3 D3 B2 B3 B3 B6 C5 C3 A4 C4 A5 C4 D4 B3 C4 C3 C5 B3 D5 C2 C6 B3 C5 museum 5 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 10 11 6am-9pm) Lakshmi Narayan Temple h DELHI •• Sights andir Marg; 26881816; Chanakyapuri; Rs 100; admission Rs 10, video Oct-Mar,9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun to 7pm Apr-Sep) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING INFORMATION Delhi Tourism & Transport Development Corporation Imperial...... Janpath Home...... Jukaso Inn Downtown...... Hotel Fifty Five...... Hotel Marina...... Hotel Metro Park...... Hotel Alka...... Hotel Bright...... Central Court Hotel...... HK Choudhary Guest House..... (DTTDC)...... Jantar Mantar...... (Branch)...... Development Corporation Delhi Tourism & Transport Ashok Travels & Tours (Indian Tourism Ashok Travels & Tours (Indian Development Corporation)... Post Office (Branch)...... Western Union...... Oxford Bookstore (Statesman House)...... 53) People Tree...... (see Kinsey Bros...... (see 6) Kinsey Bros...... (see 28) New Book Depot...... (see ICICI ATM...... of India Tourism Delhi (Government India)...... DSIDC Cyber Café...... (see 13) DSIDC Cyber Café...... (see DTTDC Foreign-Exchange 13) Counter...... (see Citibank ATM...... 7) Delhi Photo Company...... (see DHL...... Apollo Pharmacy...... (see 20) Apollo Pharmacy...... (see British Council...... American Center...... American American Express...... working order, and various oddities including riages as well as assorted railway memorabilia. railway memorabilia. as well as assorted riages engine, still in Exhibits include an 1855 steam On site are almost 30 locomotives and old car- almost 30 locomotives are On site Trainspotters will relish this will relish Trainspotters % h NATIONAL RAIL MUSEUM RAIL MUSEUM NATIONAL dess of wealth, and her consort, Narayan the wealth, and her consort, dess of Preserver. 1938 by the wealthy industrialist BD Birla. The 1938 by the wealthy industrialist BD Birla. to Lakshmi, is dedicated main temple the god- the Orissan-style pp120-1 ; M West of Connaught Place, with soaring domes, West of LAKSHMI NARAYAN TEMPLE TEMPLE LAKSHMI NARAYAN (BIRLA MANDIR) lonelyplanet.com has intriguing indoor and outdoor sections. DELHI Zafar Marg.Zafar Inthefortress/palace isa13m- per month plus 12.24% tax) Advance bookings essential. per monthplus12.24%tax)Advancebookings jang Rd;admissionRs1700plus1600for8-hr 138 Ashtaang Massage &AyurvedicTreatments Delhi Club Riding Horse Riding Golf ACTIVITIES (free) bringstheloostolife. tomoderntimes.Aguidedtour from 2500BC lection of toilet-related paraphernaliadating the centre. a mind-boggling col- Ithouses admission free; Enclave,Palam Rd; Dabri seum.org; SulabhComplex,Mahavir quirky up-close-and-personal withtoiletsatthis Get TOILETS SULABH INTERNATIONAL MUSEUMOF Ashoka’s edicts(andalater inscription). sandstone high video Rs25; Firoz erected byFiroz Shah in1354,canbefoundat The ruinsof Firozabad(thefifthcity of Delhi), FIROZ SHAH KOTLA George Vwasdeclared emperorof India. ish monarch. In1911,itwashere thatKing ing Indiannobility, paidhomage totheBrit- in 1877and1903,thegreat durbars, featur- a lone North of OldDelhi,inadesolate field,stands CORONATION DURBARSITE dolls, includingbrides. theredle East, are costumed Indian brightly dolls fromEurope,Asia, AfricaandtheMid- thy international collection,which includes around 85countries.Apartfromthenotewor- h admissionRs10; ZafarMarg; Shah Nehru House,Bahadur 120; US$45/60,caddiesRs weekdays/weekends Hussain Marg; such as Campus), comehere forauthentic treatments Ayurvedic Niketan; crowded. and there are alsotreatments forailmentssuch as arthritis. utes Rs1000). Aheavenlyheadorfoot massageisRs350 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) h

Shah Kotla Shah EH • Atvte DELHI ••Activities sirodhara obelisk h 6am-5pm) Scenic canget grounds;weekends museum (Map (Map pp120-1 ; h 9am-6pm) OppositeDelhi University(South h dawn-dusk) (warm oil drizzled onforehead; 40 min- (warmoildrizzled (Map pp120–1 ) –thisiswhere, (a pp132-3; (Map (Map (Map pp120-1 ; Indian/foreigner Rs5/US$2,

10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

(Map (Map pp132-3 ; ( Ashoka Pillar Ashoka % 25053646; www.sulabhtoiletmu % , just off Bahadur Shah , justoff Bahadur has6500dollsfrom 24111802; E-2Anand % % 24362768; Dr Zakir 24362768; DrZakir inscribedwith southwestof 23011891; Safdar- meditation. forRs699perperson. brunch-and-pool package toOctober; Sunday (April % Rd; perpersonRs500) there’s yogaforkids. tion. Diplomacoursesare possible(consult website)and Rd) Includespranayama andhathayogaaswellmedita- pp132-3; Hindi Parul. cluding venue) theglamorouscook, contact cooked. (in- Forbookingsandfurtherdetails son andincludesrecipes aswellthefood The two-hourclass costsRs1000perper- ( p144 ) withatleasttwodaysadvancenotice. cuisine, isrunbytheOneLinkRoadfolks .onelinkroad.com) Parul Puri’s Classes Cooking Cooking aboutvarious the-minute details courses. See p124 up-to- for publicationscontaining COURSES Hotel Radisson Jaypee Vasant ContinentalHotel perpersonRs300) kyapuri; Samrat Hotel Hotel Centaur outsiders, forastoutamount(taxes extra). exclusively forguests.Thefollowingdoallow Deluxe hotels have thebestpoolsbutmostare Swimming Sri Aurobindo Ashram Ashram Aurobindo Sri ofYoga Morarji DesaiNationalInstitute Dhyan Foundation Ashtaang donations are appreciated. venues. Where nocharges are mentioned, below, timingsand,ifnotstated for session the bodyandnourish thesoul.Telephone The followingplacesare topspotstostretch Meditation &Yoga 60 hours (twohours daily,thriceweekly). imum numbers apply)which costRs6000for Block VII,RKPuram) The person Rs230) (includes meditation). 1hrRs500)Beginnerandadvancedhatha Niketan; yoga website). foundation.com) Various yogaand meditationoptions(see 26148800; BasantLokcomplex,Vasant Vihar)On Central Central Directorate Hindi % (Map (Map pp120-1 ; 23721472; www.yogamdniy.com; 68 Ashoka 23721472; www.yogamdniy.com;68Ashoka (Map (Map pp132-3 ; ( , withafocusonNorthIndian (Map (Map pp120-1 ; % runsbasicHindicourses (min- 25696660; NationalHwy8;per ( % h ( % % 9811400005; www.dhyan 11.30am-3.30pm) there’s a 24111802; E-2Anand 26567863) Hatha yogaand % % ( % 26110606; Chana- ( 26779191; Gurgaon % lonelyplanet.com (Map (Map pp120-1 ; 9810793322; www 26103160; West (Map (Map DELHI Delhi Delhi 139 ( p124 ) as well as 9873130383. Delhi Diary Delhi % and In the following budget listings, only the In the following budget Most backpackers head for hyperactive head for hyperactive Most backpackers Long-term stayers should consider renting consider renting should stayers Long-term For details staying about with an Indian with a minimum tariffHotels Rs 500 of Be – din can be diabolical warned that street further For details contact assist children. Shekharat the or on above number several hundred rupeesseveral higher. hundred Old Delhi and Old Delhi stay in teeming travellers Few to be viewed with curi- likely solo women are ous disdain. out and luggage storage is usually possible storage out and luggage (sometimes for a small charge). Budget is decidedly dreary bunch Delhi’s budget and the service Most rooms are is patchy. lick for a fresh typically small and screaming bathroom blitz. On the upside, paint and of as they could be as expensive rooms aren’t for a capital city. New near the a touristy pocket Paharganj, the city’s Delhi train station that has some of beds. cheapest been pro- have room rates non-AC cheapest, will be available, rooms, where vided; AC a furnished apartment – to find out what’s apartment – to find a furnished flick through the latest on offer currently Guide City www.speciality are net: two good websites -apartments.com and www.delhiescape.net. ); p125 family contact India Tourism Delhi ( doubles start at around Rs 1000. 12.5% luxury tax and some also whack charge aren’t on a service (5% to 10%). Taxes charge and indicated unless included in this chapter bathrooms unless oth- private all rooms have a noon check- erwise have stated. Most hotels SLEEPING SLEEPING It’s wiseas Delhi’s a room in advance to book most salubrious in a flash, places can fill up for commis- arrivals easy prey new leaving offer hotels ). Most p125 (read sion sharks ) with advance p158 the airport ( pick-up from notice. a quiet room and soundly, request to snooze handy. Also, room quality earplugs keep can radi- hotels and midrange within budget rooms first. so try to inspect a few cally vary local newspapers. It’s also worth surfing the It’s also local newspapers. 200) 23412336; (Map DELHI •• Tours % ganj; Rs New Delhi train 23681803; www (Map p136 ; domestic airport 26513400) Twice- % 23273821; 4/15 Asaf international air- % ( % 24641304; intachdelhi@ N-Block 9213204094) Meditation 6am-8pm) It’s also possible % % (ITDC; Map p136 ; p136 (ITDC; Map h ( 7am-9pm); 24hr); (Map p140 ; p140 (Map Baba Kharak Singh Marg 26962757) Yoga classes (1¼ hours) Yoga classes 26962757) 8am-8pm). Morning tour (9am to h h 5am-11pm); 10am-6pm Mon-Sat); (Map p128 ; p128 (Map (Intach; % h ( h (fixed body positions), pranayama and pranayama body positions), (fixed h (DTTDC); 23363607; 25691213; asanas (no phone;

% % 25675609; ( 23315322;

India Tourism Delhi ( p125 ) can arrange ) can arrange p125 India Tourism Delhi ( % .salaambaalaktrust.com; Chandiwalan, Pahar This praiseworthy charitable organisation ( p1156 ) offers ) offers p1156 This praiseworthy charitable organisation ( walks’ with a twist – your guide is a former (Trust-‘street child, who will show you first-hand what trained) street is likelife for inner-city homeless kids. The walk takes around two hours and the money goes to the Trust to ( port Ali Rd; Rs 495) Two-hour ‘heritage walking tours’ of Old ). p146 ( Delhi that include lunch at Chor Bizarre (including Vedic mantras) and hatha/Raja mantras) and By appoint- yoga. (including Vedic ment only. combine meditation. Vedic chanting on some evenings. chanting meditation. Vedic Salaam Baalak Trust Old Delhi Walks Hotel Broadway Delhi Tourism & Transport Development Corporation (from Rs 350/500 per half-/full day). Ashok Travels & Tours multilingual, government-approved guides guides multilingual, government-approved are per person. Book severalper person. days in advance are be required. may as minimum numbers Site admission fees and camera/video charges and camera/video charges admission fees Site below and rates included in tour prices aren’t makes sense,makes although they can be hurried. shut. are when many sites Monday Avoid TOURS TOURS tour so taking city a Delhi is a spread-out Vedic Wisdom AshramVedic Tushita MeditationTushita Centre Studio Abhyas Studio Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book rediffmail.com; Rs 30) This walkingrediffmail.com; tour (approximately two hours) is with an expert places of guide and explores historic, spiritual and architectural Customised interest. Advance bookings also possible. tours are of at least a requested. week are weekly Tibetan/Buddhist meditation sessions. weekly Tibetan/Buddhist p136 ; % station 1.15pm) of New Delhi, and an Old Delhi tour from 2.15pm to 5.15pm; each for Rs 105. Same-day trips (Rs to Agra 850) run thrice-weekly while three-day and tours of Agra Jaipur (Rs 3400) operate twice-weekly. L-Block, Connaught Place; L-Block, to book tours at the India Tourism Delhi office or any ITDC hotel. Tours include a morning (8am to 1pm) excursion of New Delhi and an afternoon (2pm to 5.15pm) tour of Old Delhi; each Rs 210. A tour of Old and New Delhi is Rs 315 (8am to 5.15pm). Same-day trips (Saturday to Thursday) to Rs 1000 (includes breakfast). are Agra Ὀ Ὀ

DELHI Rs 250/350; hotel isfull. rooms, butareasonable optionifthebelow and it’s if you’ve gotanearly-morningdeparture – –convenientfrom theNewDelhitrainstation of tea. Ontheplusside,it’swalkingdistance and dodgycharacters cup –isn’teveryone’s reputationharganj fordrugs –withitsseedy Bumper-to-bumper withbudget lodgings, Pa- Area Paharganj bets, butrequest oneof itsnewerrooms. Rs 300/450; 140 grapevine. Although Paharganj Although grapevine. hassomeof 4 1 3 2 PAHARGANJ Hotel BombayOrient Hotel Hotel NewCityPalace Hotel See Connaught PlaceMap(p136) EH • Sepn DELHI ••Sleeping Hotel GoldRegency...... Hotel Downtown...... Heritage Inn...... Hare KrishnaGuestHouse...... Bless Inn...... (see18) Ajay GuestHouse...... Salaam BaalakTrust...... (see10) UTI ATM...... (see20) Thomas Cook...... ICICI ATM...... (see20) HDFC ATM...... Cyber Station...... (see7) Chequepoint ForeignExchange... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION the a a AC place to tap intothebackpacker placetotap ) ) Oneof theoldcity’sbestbudget Tight-fit andsimplyfurnished Chitragupta Rd

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Mp p128; (Map 17 Rd Rajguru 18 Rajguru Rd 2 19 6 25 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C4 C4 B3 B4 B4 D3 B4 C4 14 % % 16 5 4 23242691; s/d 23279548; s/d Roxy Hotel...... Prince Polonia...... Pearl Plaza...... Major’s Den...... Lord’s Hotel...... Hotel Vishal...... Hotel Relax...... Hotel RakInternational...... Hotel Navrang...... Hotel Namaskar...... Hotel MoonPalace...... (see12) Hotel Kelson...... (see20) Hotel GrandGodwin...... Vivek Hotel...... Royal GuestHouse...... erplsTuitHm...... B4 Metropolis TouristHome...... B

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10 Chandiwalan 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Ram Nagar 9 A3 B4 B3 B4 C4 B4 B4 B4 B4 C3 C3 B4 C4

Arakashan Rd 7 Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 27

Basant Rd 1 Gem ...... Sonu ChatHouse...... (see24) Sam’s Café...... (see22) Metropolis Restaurant&Bar....(see17) A4 Malhotra's DosaPlease...... (see26) Malhotra...... Madan Café...... Kitchen Café...... Diamond Restaurant...... Appetite GermanBakery...... (see14) International TouristBureau...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING 21

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( The rooms are smallish and mini- smallish The rooms are Other possibilities: Royal Guest House Hotel Vishal Hotel Rak International Major’s Den Heritage Inn Vivek Hotel Ajay Guest House Hotel Downtown rooms, but not bad at this price. Bazaar; s/d Rs 200/250; zaar; s/d Rs 100/120) Elementary cell-like rooms (especially paying peanuts! the singles) but you’re Hare Krishna Guest House Hotel Moon Palace Hotel Navrang clean sheets, TVs, bedside tables and fridges, tiled floors. yahoo.com; Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 490/590; up on midnight snacks at nearby Raghu’s Cookies World. tiled bathrooms, TVs, small dress- wardrobes, ing tables and, importantly, windows. Stock Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 300/400; hype-free place. The retired Major, a sprightly Major, The retired place. hype-free with his family. on site lives septuagenarian, more rooms enjoy The two (pricier) rooftop sunbeams. Away from the madness of Main Bazaar, the Main Away from the madness of rooms but is a drug- and Den has threadbare ble floors, a TVble floors, bathroom. and bearable You certainly to rumba in the won’t be able smooth mar- poky rooms, but at least you get 1534-1550 Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 300/350; odours. odours. travellers for its chilled-out vibe, not its ragged vibe, not its ragged for its chilled-out travellers walls and peculiar rooms, many with flaky .com; 5084 Main Bazaar; s/d Rs 250/350; Rs 250/300) the corridors, Vishal’s rooms are a real mixed mixed a real Vishal’s rooms are the corridors, sheets) (and with cleaner bag, some larger than others. of a place with scrawny cats creeping through cats creeping a place with scrawny of rooms are sparsely furnished but the colour but the colour sparsely furnished are rooms Car you pink. bound to tickle is scheme hire can be arranged. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book Bazaar; s/d Rs 200/250) Scuffed but cheap, inhabitable rooms. Bazaar; s/d Rs 200/250) Scuffed they’re not, but the small rooms do have not, but the small rooms do have they’re mally furnished but this hotel is still in better is still in better but this hotel mally furnished brothers. its budget shape then many of 1575 Main s/d Rs 200/300; Bazaar; at this popular hotel all have marble floors, marble floors, all have at this popular hotel are small and sparingly furnished, but still a small and sparingly furnished, are plus it offerings, many Paharganj cut above ). p146 boasts Sam’s Café ( DELHI .net.in; JaiSinghRd;s/dwithshared bathroomRs915/1705, hipalpur Extn, NationalHwy8;s/dRs450/495; hipalpur Extn, Rs 300, s/d with private bathroomRs550/650; Rs 300,s/dwithprivate del3.vsnl.net.in; 35/3 H-Block;swithshared bathroom 142 International Airport. ( person Rs505 rooms of the arriving byplane, canavail of theretiring likemeans youcansleep ababy. yard. Itslocation,inaquiet(unpaved) lane, rooms arranged aroundasmallgarden court- silly hour. Tarra ordinarybutcomfy haseight respectable departsata iftheirflight tostay lelujah! Budget travellers have somewhere TarraHotel AREA AIRPORT HK ChoudharyGuestHouse Sunny GuestHouse GuestHouse Ringo cheap Place: forConnaught time youread this. rooms should beshining bythe brighter even fireplaces. Renovations are plannedsothe boastornamental ceilingsandsomeeven high decentroomssport a 1930sbuilding,Bright’s dinclbreakfast fromRs1800; 1st fl,85M-Block; and dinner. very uncool.Allrates breakfast includetax, sparkles, buttheRs150charge toget wetis first. Thelarge pool(openApriltoNovember) have more charm thenothers –inspectafew theroomsaren’tHowever some bad,although andsomelemon-lippedstaff. boarding house of a busy Y(menandwomen)hasthewhiff bathroomRs1385/2410; with private of thebig-windowedrooms. are reasonably well-furnished; angleforone smallish roomsdon’thave much oomphbut 50B-Block;s/dRs 1400/1700; yahoo.com; comfortable. are underwhelmingbutthey’re adequately flavour.has asemi-institutional Therooms private bathroomRs300/400) private dm Rs90,s/dwithshared bathroomRs125/250,with 17ScindiaHouse,ConnaughtLane; [email protected]; with private bathroomRs350) with private Lane; dmRs90,s/dwithshared bathroomRs170/250,d [email protected]; 152ScindiaHouse,Connaught % Passengers departingwithin24hours of The followingare crustytothecore but Bright Hotel Park Metro Hotel YMCA Tourist Hostel Tourist YMCA 25652011; dm Rs100; EH • Sepn DELHI ••Sleeping

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23360133; [email protected]; Ashoka Rd; s/d incl tax Yatri House House Yatri YWCA Blue Triangle Family HostelYWCA Blue Triangle Family Bajaj Indian Home Stay Ess Gee’s Master Guest House West of Connaught Place Place of Connaught West & breakfast Rs 1136/1975; & breakfast year), but the staff can be impersonal. % and has this Y is centrally located de mothball, fairly good rooms. It’s open to both genders. homestay.com; 8A/34 WEA Karol Bagh; s/d incl tax & break- fast Rs 2661/3403; has 10 im- – residence professionally-run rooms, and thoughtfully-decorated maculate themed (see Room all differently website). and hair- fridges amenities include safes, The tariffdryers. includes complimentary calls and airport local telephone tea/coffee, restaurant. a rooftop There’s transfers. Road & Ashoka Chanakyapuri Youth Hostel 5 Nyaya Marg,.vsnl.net.in; Chanakyapuri; dm without/with AC Rs 90/270, d without/with AC Rs 350/750; pay an extra Rs 50/250 per day/ members bathroom Rs 1300/1400; has five residence couple, this suburban rooms (two clean communal nicely-furnished terrace. bathrooms) and a sweet little rooftop and her is a Reiki Master Ushi The ever-calm runs tours. hubby, Avnish, by a small secluded is fronted garden and also has a pleasant courtyard with open-air six clean are There wrought-iron furniture. charm, and comfy rooms with an uncluttered The flowers. all with light quilts and fresh car hire owner, Sanjay, can arrange reliable on Delhi’s has her finger Parul, and his wife, entertainment pulse. If you like home-style lodgings you’ll love you’ll love lodgings home-style like If you ), pp120–1 places (on Map these hassle-free fill up fast – book ahead. but they can Rs 800/850; Nagar; s/d incl breakfast Patel low guesthouse fond may bring back – which place – with unfussy grandma’s memories of TVs,all have rooms that and writing desks no signboard outside the wardrobes. There’s – a nearby land- building residential white Siddharth. mark is the Hotel -guesthouse.com; R-500 New Rajendra shared Nagar; s/d with Panchkuian Marg;Panchkuian s/d from Rs 1700/2000; somewhat institutional vibe and hint of eau somewhat institutional vibe and hint of trally located yet astonishingly serene, Yatri Yatri serene, yet astonishingly trally located dormitory is good value for members (non- dormitory is good value for members )

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ai ai ) Low-key apartment rooms around a with three Corus Prem Guest House Sagar Hotel Fifty Five Jukaso Inn Downtown Hotel Alka York Hotel fast Rs 5000/5500; ai .com; 86/17 Janpath; s/d with shared bathroom Rs 2500/3500;.com; 86/17 Janpath; s/d with shared small open-air courtyard. Advance bookings essential. .com; 37 Shaheed Bhagat Singh Marg; d incl breakfast Rs 6000; Connaught Hotel Marina Janpath Home cious rooms. The standard rooms (wooden or furnished contemporarily are marble floors) TVs. flat-screen rooms are and have Deluxe and tasteful with a small sitting area bigger, rugs.Also recommended: scatter block, this is a super choice, with 28 fairly spa- block, this is a super choice, .com; L-Block; s/d Rs 2700/3500; .com; L-Block; modern-style rooms (some superior), many carpets and upholstery. with corporate-style shop. a round-the-clock coffee There’s There’s a good vegetarian restaurant. a good vegetarian There’s More money buys more pizzazz, includ- money buys more More leopard-skin-themed rooms. ing grrrroovy but at least they have contemporary com- contemporary but at least they have fort, some with smart wood-panelled walls. Block; s/d Rs 2100/3200; you jump for joy standard rooms won’t make facing rooms. facing rooms. bedcovers. Try to avoid the noisy, street- Try to avoid bedcovers. K-Block; s/d Rs 2150/2950; K-Block; filled outdoor area. filled outdoor area. The rooms aren’t flash, but they’re clean, with flash, but they’re The rooms aren’t a pot-plant TV, There’s and wardrobe. fridge Mrs Singh, the courteous owner, keeps this Singh, owner, keeps the courteous Mrs choice. it a reliable place shipshape, making [email protected]; 1st fl, 11 P-Block; s/d Rs 2000/2500; [email protected]; 1st fl, 11 P-Block; some better (and quieter) than others. There’s There’s others. than (and quieter) some better a small open-air terrace. of stairs, this modest one-star this modest has simply stairs, hotel of comfortable but adequately rooms, decorated Although CP properties lack the ‘wow’ fac- lack the ‘wow’ CP properties Although unbeatably central. Thesetor, they’re listings . p136 on Map feature CENTRAL DELHI DELHI CENTRAL Area Place Connaught Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book Rs 4000; H-Block; s/d Rs 1800/2300; H-Block; s/d Rs 1800/2300; 70s, York’s rooms aren’t as swinging as they swinging as they as 70s, York’s rooms aren’t sized and clean, good but they’re once were, and satiny floors some with wood-panelled DELHI renovated old-style building,isoff Mathura .com; F-75 Poorvi Marg, Vasant Marg, Vihar;dinclbreakfast Rs3500; .com; F-75Poorvi US$175; Colony (West);dinclbreakfast manordelhi.com; 77Friends with businesstravellers. with modernfacilities.It’sespecially popular are very elegantlyfurnished andequipped boutique sister property,IconTowers’ rooms US$170; -ysf.com; 46Paschimi Vasant Marg, Vihar;dinclbreakfast villa scores topmarks. din,butoverallabsorb sporadictraffic this cookies.Someroomscan and complimentary marblefloors balconies, writingdesks,TVs, the centre. The15well-presented roomshave ers, Iconisinanelite suburb,southwestof ai a smallgarden-pottery shoponsite). no signboard–lookfor‘39AmarNath’(there’s chums squirrels chase andparrots. Lutyenshas large gardenwhere Looneyandhiscanine nishings. Guestscansiptea intherelaxing, are well-kept andhomy,withsummeryfur- hasitsown(splendid)pool.Therooms even isagreenguesthouse oasisindustyDelhiand breakfast Rs3000/3500; Rd;s/dincltax& www.lutyensguesthouse.com; 39Prithviraj rooms offer more spaceandpersonality. presumptuous charm, whilethenicerdeluxe roomshaveing. Thecomfystandard anun- has 18renovated roomsinanold-stylebuild- inaleafysuburbthat rambling guesthouse [email protected]; 27Jorbagh;s/dRs2200/2600; marble floors, wardrobesandwritingtables. has fourcared-for andspaciousrooms,with the groundfloorof anapartmentcomplex.It Flyover, issituated on thiselegantguesthouse Rs 1900/2300; Jangpura; www.onelinkroad.com;s/dincltaxes &breakfast affection. hounds,thriveand Puppy,thepetbasset on decorated and withsmallbalconies.Hush There are justtworooms, each very tastefully and shekeeps theplaceintip-topcondition. in aclassysuburb,ishometoMrs Kamte fast fromRs1375/1575; 1stfl,D-8GulmoharPark; s/[email protected]; Home Awayfrom DELHI SOUTH 144 The Manor The Icon Towers Lutyens GuestHouse Jorbagh 27 Icon Villa One LinkRoad EH • Sepn DELHI ••Sleeping ai ) ai Especiallygoodforlong-term stay-

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% 41669766; www.icon-ysf pp120–1 ; % ) Thiseasy-going 24698647; guesthouse 26925151; www.the 46016611; www.icon 41824083; 1LinkRd, % % ai 24625716; 26560289; A ) tions should make thembettervalueformoney. tions shouldmake rooms. Theplannedrenova- butoverpriced comfortable Sunder Nagar;s/dRs6000/7000; TVs, cocoa-brown furniture, electronicsafes, TVs, 19 smartroomshave woodenfloors, LCD Nagar’s mostimpressive The placetostay. isunquestionablySunder Boutiquish Shervani s/d inclbreakfast RsUS$160/170;11SunderNagar; are best. ings. Itsrecently renovated 1st-floorrooms thick bedcovers andlovely antiquefurnish- rooms, allwithcaramel-brown marblefloors, Fronted byapretty garden, Ten hasjustfive for thisarea. smidgen small–andthepriceiscompetitive jaded roomsare –ifa enough comfortable harani.com; 3SunderNagar;s/dRs2650/3250; on Map pp132–3 . feature off.cheesed Thefollowingguesthouses have leftsometravellers slightly and service vis-à-visthe spirallingtariffs, roomquality but moderately-sized fortable guesthouses, Posh SunderNagarhasaclutch of com- Sunder Nagar warmed terrace. carpets. There’s astylish restaurant andsun- marble, wood-panellingandhand-knotted opulent touches such assilkdrapes,Italian The streamlined beige-and-tan roomshave Rd (nearFriendsClub)inatree-loving locale. cushions, LCD TVs andtouches of Oriental cushions, LCD TVs bouncy beds withsugar-white sheets, scatter roomshaveShangri-La’s plentyof froufrou – Rd;s/dUS$325/345; Ashoka .shangri-la.com; equipped, rooms. property hasperiod-styled,but modern- 3.2-hectare garden,this1903-built Oberoi dfromUS$175; Sham NathMarg; Hotel Maidens Top End Inn Jukaso Home Tourist La Sagrita There’s acaféonsite. tea-and-coffee-making facilitiesandfridges. better, especiallyNo302. –thepenthouses(Rs4890)are much do withafacelift butthestandardroomscould soothing gardengetskudos, 14SunderNagar;dRs3690; .lasagrita.com; Shervani Ten GuestHouse Maharani Shangri-La Hotel Shangri-La Other options:

( % ( 24355047; 10SunderNagar;dRs5000;

% Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( %

24350308; www.jukasohotels.com; 50 24350308; www.jukasohotels.com; ( % 24354771; www.shervanihotels.com; 24354771; www.shervanihotels.com;

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23273661; 3704 Netaji Subhash Marg, 23269880; mains Rs 80-300; Down a lane across from the % (

% Peacefully positioned on 4 hectares Peacefully ais ) (

Most midrange and all upmarket restau- and all upmarket Most midrange Karim’s Telephone numbers have been provided been provided have numbers Telephone Travellers pining for familiar fast food food pining for familiar fast Travellers Radisson Hotel Uppal’s Orchid & 6pm-midnight) ambience Karim’s south gate, Masjid’s Jama is distinctly masculine, but it’s been delight- Mughlai with divine cuisine ing Delhiites brutally good prepare since 1913. The chefs including tasty fare nonveg) (predominantly this chapter unless indicated. this chapter reservations recom- where are for restaurants mended, especially on weekends. North Delhi OLD DELHI . p128 on Map feature following eateries The Restaurants Moti Mahal has been wooing restaurant family-oriented with its Indian food for some six dec- diners There’s chicken. the butter ades. Don’t miss Qawwali Wednesday to Monday (from live around 8pm). patisserie bakes creative creamy delights. creamy creative patisserie bakes EATING India’s with some of Delhi delights diners roadside ramshackle best places to eat, from re- stalls, restaurants to multicuisine kebab dim lighting tablecloths, with crisp white plete and mood music. including chains, will find ever-multiplying McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, Subway and TGI Friday’s. a service rants charge around 10%, tax of a further 20% can suck while drinks taxes from your or 12.5% (nonalcoholic) (alcoholic) been included in haven’t moneybelt. Taxes .radisson.com/newdelhiin; National Hwy 8; s/d incl breakfast 8; s/d incl breakfast National Hwy .radisson.com/newdelhiin; US$275/290; beds with tightlypedically certified tucked-in Kebab sheets. is the popular Great site On restaurant. Factory US$325/350; s/d tional Hwy 8; www.uppalsorchidhotel.com; ais gardens, this boutique-style and manicured of environmentally-conscious doesn’t hotel have super- but they’re rooms, particularly huge and furnished in soporific tones. The suave Daryaganj; mains Rs 80-220; everyortho- comfort including conceivable )

) ) ) The

26112233; ais ) Not as ais ais % DELHI •• Eating ( 23026162; www

23341234; www ais % 23710101; www.star % sumptuous. % ais 25064590; www.ashokcoun 24363030; www.oberoiho % ( seriously

(Map p136 ; % (Map pp132-3 ;

23744000; www.theparkhotels.com; (Map pp132-3 ;

% Imperial Premium rooms with all the crea- Premium ) Superlative rooms with views over Humay- ) (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map (Map p136 ; ; p136 (Map Other five-star beauties: Other five-star Le Meridien Maurya Sheraton Hotel & Towers Maurya Sheraton Hotel & Towers o Taj Mahal Hotel MahalTaj Hotel ais Airport Area tels.com; Dr Zakirtels.com; Hussain Marg; s/d US$350/375; un’s tomb, the pool or golf course. 15 Parliament St; s/d US$300/350; 15 Parliament bombastic as its five-star cousins, but with a hushed luxury. appointed rooms. appointed unclaustrophobic appeal and comfortably- Ashok Country Resort tryresort.com; Rajokri Rd; s/d US$135/155; Set grounds, the Ashok sprawling verdant in ilk, but it has an the five-star may not be of Oberoi Park sterling restaurants including award-winning including award-winning restaurants sterling Bukhara, does dhal. which dynamite even an exclusive ladies’-only floor. Snug- ladies’-only floor. even an exclusive beds, consult the gle into marshmallow-soft of and dine at a clutch in-house astrologer ais www.itcwelcomgroup.in; Sardar Patel Marg; d US$425; www.itcwelcomgroup.in; Sardar Patel to deep marble baths and finely-crafted furni- and finely-crafted to deep marble baths are The suites ture. cesses The high-ceiling to pop stars. rooms linen and puffy pillows, it all, from French have inimitable Imperial amalgamates multiple de- inimitable Imperial amalgamates Victorian to colonial sign styles – from classic to Art Deco – and houses sublime artwork. Raj- this sophisticated Gracefully appointed, everyone from prin- era property has hosted .theimperialindia.com; d US$425; Janpath; fine restaurants, a fitness centre and Rick’s a fitness centre fine restaurants, bar ( p150 ). hotel. The luxuriously-appointed rooms have rooms have The luxuriously-appointed hotel. while amenities include frills, all the five-star High-brow artwork, Persian rugs and rich rugs and rich artwork, Persian High-brow this ritzy a hallmark of are silk furnishings .tajhotels.com; Man.tajhotels.com; Singh Rd; s/d US$375/400; shampoos, body gels and other bathroom and other bathroom shampoos, body gels goodies. and comfort-packed rooms, kitted out with out with kitted rooms, and comfort-packed stuffed trappings: the usual five-star mini- fluffybars, ample minisized bathrobes and woodhotels.com; Janpath; s/d US$350/388; woodhotels.com; monolith has gingery-toned This glassy sages, body-wraps and herbal baths. herbal baths. body-wraps and sages, design. They do a jolly good afternoon tea tea afternoon a jolly good They do design. mas- de-stressing and offer (Thursday/Friday) Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book ture comforts you’d expect at this price tag, ture DELHI this basicveg café. thaliforjustRs25at crisis? Tuckintoatasty as well as Chinese and Continental dishes. andContinental as well Chinese traditionalists; youdecide) – cording to dosa achocolateeven (atravesty bananadosa ac- Pleasing SouthIndian fare –bygolly,there’s Main (Map Bazaar p140 ). tering travellers. are inexpensive andalwaysabuzz withchat- Mexican. Theeateries are nothingfancybut to Mughlai variety, fromIsraelitoItalian, are of thebamboozlinghave-a-go-at-anything Yielding wobbly results, Paharganj’s menus AREA PAHARGANJ since1790. (Indian sweets) churningtery outtraditional hasbeen Near theSisganjGurdwara,thissimpleswee- yet-oh-so-syrupy bite. about onceyou’ve taken yourfirst crunchy- whatallthefussis stars, you’llquicklysee fromtaxi-wallahsing everyone toBollywood worry about yourwaistlinetomorrow.Lur- jalebis Jalebiwala Delhi’s– ifnotIndia’s–finest does Rs160) kg withasplodge of pickles. tangy served pappadams andcrushed aloo tawa lined laneoff ChandniChowkspecialisingin orsugarysnackonthedash. for asalty turn-over popular Haldiram’s isdeservedly Haldiram’s Quick Eats phirni chicken) gets the aroundof asdoes applause, sharabi kababi tikka masala cuisine.miri andMughlai Itssignature dish, –ChorBizarrebed table inKash- specialises bar’vintage cartothefour-posterthe ‘buffet Dimly-lit andwithaneclecticdécor–from Rs 325/395; thalis Asaf AliRd;mainsRs150-325,veg/nonvegKashmiri itonlyopensafter sunset. During Ramadan tandoori burra 146 Sonu ChatHouse Ghantewala Jalebiwala Chor Bizarre Madan Café Madan The followingplacesare along,orjustoff, Paratha WaliGali (potato), (potato), (hotplate). varietiesinclude Thestuffed EH • Etn DELHI ••Eating (semolina pudding). (semolina (deep-fried ‘squiggles’), sopigoutand (deep-fried ‘squiggles’), Calories schmalories! Century-old schmalories! Century-old Calories (traditionalflatbread) fresh the off h

(Chandni Chowk;/pakorasRs6)

7.30-10.30am, noon-3.30pm&7.30-11.30pm) (Dariba Corner,ChandniChowk;jalebisper (Dariba

(mains Rs20-45;

(Chandni Chowk; mithai per kg Rs200) (Chandni Chowk;mithaiperkg murli ( (clay-oven-roasted mutton). %

(mains Rs25-100;

(parathas Rs10-35) 23273821; HotelBroadway,4/15 (white radish), smashed badam h (brandy-flamed 7am-11pm) h Afoodstall- (almond),all 8am-11.30pm) Cash High High mithai

Rs 70-160; are generous. sines produceshaphazardresults. Servings atotherworldcui- itsstab however pasta, 11.30pm) Vishal. tea. MulticuisineAppetite adjoinstheHotel dinner, orjustdropbyforacupof lemongrass forlunch androastchickenfast, moussaka for 11pm) ara, chicken andmore. masala enchiladas, carbon- scrambled eggs, spaghetti restaurant isarelaxing placetokilltimeover this cheap andcheerful multicuisinerooftop scattered aroundapotplant–strewn terrace, Rs 45-100; fromRs30. dosas southern sister, Malhotra’s with Please, Dosa more yourthing?NextdoorisMalhotra’s withgreaseliciousmaybe friedeggs chips is omelettes andbananaporridge.masala Or tions includepapayacurd,jampancakes, rajma macaroniand cheese tomatoes, ing stuffed foodwithpossibilitiesinclud- and Chinese gets kudosforitsheartyIndian,Continental does dosas, dosas, does 90; Saravana Bhavan Restaurants The following eateries appearonMap p136 . CONNAUGHT PLACE AREA Central Delhi wedges. tikkaandpotato cheese) good nibblessuch as chicken There bolognaise. tospaghetti are also (and beverages –see above ), fromtandoori haunt hasagreat varietyof international food tightly-packed, butthishumming travellers’ atthisrooftopThe tables restaurant maybe Bazaar;mainsRs125-375; Home, 1634Main daily. more. Thecakes (Rs35perslice) are baked cannelloni,chickensalad, stew, thalisand equally goodpostbreakfast fare –avocado rooftop, crackingbreakfasts Sam’sdoes and tel’s groundfloorand(more atmospheric) Sam’s Café Sam’s Café Bakery German Appetite Malhotra Metropolis Restaurant &Bar Restaurant Metropolis Diamond Restaurant Café Kitchen h Dive intomushrooms ontoastforbreak- 8am-10.30pm) (curriedkidneybeans).Breakfast op- Diamond shines whenitcomesto h h

(mains Rs35-240; 8am-11.30pm) 8am-11pm)

(Vivek Hotel, 1534-1550 Main Bazaar;mains Hotel,1534-1550Main (Vivek idlis (Hotel Shelton, 5043 Main Bazaar;mains (Hotel Shelton,5043Main

(46 Janpath;dosasfrom Rs45,thalis Massively popular,Saravana andother southernspeci- Located onVivek Ho-

(mains Rs50-250; Withcanefurniture paneer h (mains Rs45-105;

7am-11pm) lonelyplanet.com (unfermented (Metropolis Tourist Tourist (Metropolis h Malhotra h 8am-11pm) h 7.30am- 7am- DELHI

noon- 147 The h 8.30am- 10.30am-6pm gong bao ji 12.30-11pm) h h h rolls. Happy-go-lucky Fu- Happy-go-lucky Indian food, with Indian food, with (5 H-Block; kebabs from Rs 50) kathi

(Map pp132-3 ; Santushti Shopping

(48 M-Block; Rs 275-650; mains

noon-11.15pm) 41513535; 27 H-Block; mains Rs 350-600; mains Rs 350-600; 41513535; 27 H-Block; tables. The veg/nonveg tandoori tables. The veg/nonveg 65398888; 14/15 F-Block; mains Rs 235- h (16 A-Block; cakes/sandwiches Rs 28/35) %

(20 B-Block; mains Rs 115-330; (20 B-Block; mains Rs 115-330; ( %

12.30-11.30pm) Thoughtfully-prepared Hunan 12.30-11.30pm) Thoughtfully-prepared ( Hobnob with society ladies who duck (8 E-Block; mains Rs 125-295; (Map pp132-3 ; 12/48 Malcha Marg Market; mains pp132-3 (Map

Hearty American and Tex-Mex food food and Tex-Mex American Hearty h noon-4pm & 6-11.30pm) (sautéed chicken) sauce are and okra in black-bean Nizam’s Kathi Kabab Also recommended: Basil & Thyme Ruby Tuesday Veda Popular with Delhiites for its flavoursome Indianised Popular with Delhiites for its flavoursome It does a mean sweet chilli tofu and the Chinese cuisine. Mongolian chicken isn’t bad either. cuisine served The in an imaginative interior. ding It’s down the lane opposite Palikahot sellers. Bazaar’s Gate No 6. Quick Eats 685; dishes. Whether it’s Peking lamb, Sukiyaki dishes. Whether it’s Peking glass noodles, diners pork, or just a bowl of disappointed. rarely are Complex, Chanakyapuri; mains Rs 255-300; Mon-Sat) Wenger’s has been baking since Wenger’s legendary procedure purchasing 1926 – its convoluted certainlyto ye olde days! But the harks back pas- rigmarole is worth it, with a rewarding including a sweet treats, and savoury of tiche frightfully good fig tart. It also does birthday cookies, muffins, marzipan and around cakes, homemade chocolate. 30 types of masterfully This tiny (mainly takeaway) eatery and kebabs prepares & CHANAKYAPURI ENCLAVE DIPLOMATIC AREA Fujiya Rs 100-260; Café 100 Berco’s Chinese glorious, especially during daylight especially glorious, you when landmarks. can identify 11pm) served bistro-style setting. in a comfy The 475/650 per half-/fullpork ribs (Rs rack) are a draught with good and perfect fingerlicking beer115 per glass). (Rs Mughlai and North-West Frontier speciali- ties, served featuring interior in an ultrachic dura pietra two. feeds platter 11pm) Easygoing and with a varied menu. Recommenda- chickentions include the masala fish fingers, cacciatore and chocolate mud pie. h jiya has a Chinese menu laced with Japanese jiya has a Chinese menu laced with Japanese

A 8am- 10am- h mattar mattar 3.30-7pm,

h naan. rogan josh (sweetmeat 10am-11.30pm) h (savoury pan- (savoury ladoos ladoos garam garam garam (15 E-Block; mains Rs 115-300; (stuffed dumplings) is

uttapams uttapams is a cool yogurty elixir – just is a cool yogurty elixir – (dosa stuffed with lemon lunch 12.30-3.30pm, snacks 23721616; 22 Kasturba Gandhi Marg; DELHI •• Eating (12 N-Block; dosas Rs 50-80, thalis Rs 85; (12 N-Block; dosas Rs 50-80, thalis (15 K-Block; dosas from Rs 45; (15 K-Block; A revolving 24th-floor restau- 24th-floor A revolving (clay-oven-cooked chicken) chicken) (clay-oven-cooked h

% Oozing old-world charm, this Oozing old-world charm, ( Feeding Delhi for around seven Delhi for around Feeding First-rate South Indian standards First-rate

(11 D-Block; mains Rs 130-350;

(Regal Bldg, Sansad Marg; mains Rs 115-375; dahi idli dahi

Another dosa dreamland, with with dosa Another dreamland, (8 F-Block; mains Rs 100-395; Embassy has a mishmash of Indian Embassy has a mishmash of

(25 B-Block; mains Rs 140-485; noon-midnight) (unfermented cheese pea curry) and (unfermented

7.30-11pm)

11am-11pm) noon-11pm) 11am-11pm) Zen Host Banana Leaf Parikrama Embassy Kwality Sagar Ratna United Coffee House (rich, spicy lamb curry) and chicken masala. spicy lamb curry) and chicken (rich, revolution takes 1½ hours). The views are are The views 1½ hours). takes revolution mains Rs 150-450; dinner ance. The crispy sesame ance. lamb and Szechwan both good. beancurd are quintessentially Chinese but with Japa- menu, nese a cameo appear- and Thai dishes making cutlets and fries? It’s also an offal aficionado – anyone for brain It’s also an offal and Continental creations, from chicken stro- from chicken and Continental creations, sandwichesto ganoff and chutney 11.30pm) food (especially Indian) deserves praise – the malai murgh is a favourite. kebab h decades, Kwality squeezes in the tables but the delish, especially with zlers, pastas and scrummy ; the zlers, paneer kofta haryali Delhi denizens alike, its menu has oodles to Delhi denizens alike, choose from – soups, grilled sandwiches, siz- h is a splendid spot to 1940s restaurant classic and Popular with travellers slow the pace. the thing for Delhi Belly–ravaged tummies. bath masala dosa bath rice). The h as options such obscure as well as some more cakes) and other southern goodies. cakes) 10.30pm) expertly-prepared – arrive early! Branch at 15 P-Block, Con- at 15 P-Block, early! Branch – arrive naught Place. such as the cucumber-seed as the cucumber-seed such a first-in-first-served policy balls). There’s alities with aplomb, most served with aplomb, alities with lovely sweets inventive It also has chutneys. fresh lonelyplanet.com rant where you can dine on Indian and Chi- rant where nese (one food while spinning oh-so-slowly With a faded charm, the Host’s stern-faced the Host’s stern-faced With a faded charm, servewaiters satisfying Indian and Chinese deep The in discussion. to diners fare paneer good. and egg curry are DELHI but the menu is a bit hit-and-miss. Deep-sea but themenuisabithit-and-miss. Deep-sea Habitat Ploof Centre, inseafood, specialises cuisine is served uphere surround- insleek cuisine is served tangri kebab h commendable cafés ( opposite ). Market Khan to topupyourtank. alsohas Nagar Markets, there are somegoodplaces If you’re orSunder shoppingattheKhan KHAN & SUNDERNAGARMARKETS Gulati Havemore Inn Chicken Pindi Restaurant Theyincludethefollowing: night. most opendailyfromaroundnoontomid- upstairs. seating lahm and top picksincludingthecouscoussalad Mediterranean cuisine,with andLebanese the nearbyLodiGarden.There’s Continental, after apower-walkingyour heels at session 11.30pm; mainsRs275-635) and baked crab. includeHimalayanrainbowtroutdelights Rs 225-750; Frank SinatratoPinkFloyd. demand. Thejukebox from haseverything baconandhashbrownson rustling upeggs, rings. Breakfast withchefs isanall-dayaffair butter maltstopodgyburgers andonion sics, frombuttermilk pancakes andpeanut- stars-and-stripes clas- bar stools–serves groovy diner–withitscherry-red booths and Rs 140-365; pp132–3. ( p130 ). Theeateries belowfeature onMap tombs of ( Safdarjang p131 ) andHumayun Coordinate amealhere withavisittothe LODI COLONY&PANDARA MARKET crepes in-between shop-hopping. into B&Tformushroom risottoorblueberry 148 mended. food – the butter chicken and food –thebutterchicken Chinese dishes served inapleasantinterior. Chinese dishesserved food withavenerablevegselection. aloo Baci Pandara Market hasacluster of restaurants, Restaurant Lodi, theGarden Ploof Diner All American (stuffed potatoes). 12.30-11.30pm; mainsRs275-595) EH • Etn DELHI ••Eating (lamb)Moroccan.There’s breezy terrace (mains Rs 135-450) A North Indianfocus;trythe (mainsRs135-450)ANorth

Mp pp132-3; (Map

( % h (charcoal-grilled chicken drumsticks)and chicken (charcoal-grilled h (mains Rs110-385; (mainsRs110-320)Indianand(some) 24634666; 13 Main Market, LodiColony;mains Market, 24634666; 13Main 7am-midnight) 12.30-3pm &7-11pm) (mainsRs100-350)Tasty Indian North % (India HabitatCentre, Lodi Rd;mains

41507445; Sunder Nagar Market; 41507445; SunderNagar Market; Justtheplacetocool mattar paneer Truetoitsname,this h Wed-Mon) Indian

Reliable Italian Reliable Italian NeartheIndia (Lodi Rd; are recom- h 11am- dum fermented isawinner. cheese) (large savoury crepe withspicedun- stuffed food atgreat prices.The South Indianrestaurant thatdishesoutgreat ries? Tamura –armedwithaJapanese chef made pasta. Australian lambchops andauthentichand- gnocchi,pizzas, exquisite succulent potato & 7-11.30pm) Rd;mainsRs450-1200; CamaPl,Ring Bhikaiji squealing kiddiescandrive younuts. a burningsword).Avoid weekends when on wrapped aroundmincedmutton,served dishes such as enveloped restaurant cookssomeenterprising ice gets thethumbsdown,thisgreenery- Rs 140-530; lage; dosasRs45-75,thalis90; Naivedyam HAUZ KHAS AREA have toqueue–it’sworththewait. wall kebab jointissopopularyou’llprobably h Chacha Khan Quick Eats dining section. ings, eitherattheinformalcaféorinfine- (Map pp132–3 ). (Map able toorder. There’s abranch Market atKhan aredoughnuts not.Birthdaycakes are avail- and croissants mended, butthe desert-dry are andwalnut tarts sandwiches recom- chickensnacks: theapplestrudel,tandoori Rs45/40) wiches/cakes Sugar &Spice Quick Eats (paper-thin chapatis) orthickgarlicnaan. up flavour-packed with sauces mop lamb kormaandPunjabimeatmasala; ingly deliciousNorthIndianfoodsuch as Lok complex;mainsRs245-425; adownstairs table. imi. Reserve tempura andbaked tosushi andsash- salmon – creates anauthenticrepertoire, fromprawn Rs 200-400; Tamura Restaurants VASANT VIHAR Park Baluchi Punjabi byNature La Piazza noon-10pm Mon-Sat,4-10pmSun)

Mp pp120-1; (Map h h

Comehere forqualitywood-fired Mp pp120-1 ; (Map

Mp pp120-1; (Map

(Map (Map pp132-3 snacksRs30-60; Market; ; Khan

noon-3pm &6.30-10pm) noon-11.30pm)

(Map (Map pp120-1 ; BasantLokcomplex;sand- ( murg potli % Takeaway cakes andsavoury 26859369; Hauz Khas Village;mains 26859369; HauzKhas Mp pp120-1; (Map %

26154082; D-Block Market; mains 26154082; D-BlockMarket; % % Although theserv- Although h paneer masaladosa h (barbecuedchicken 26960426; Hauz Khas Vil- 26960426; HauzKhas 26791234; Hyatt Regency, 26791234; HyattRegency, 12.30-11pm) Thishole-in-the- 11am-11pm) lonelyplanet.com % Tired of cur- 41516666; Basant rumali roti h Ravish- noon-2.45pm A snug

DELHI

149 Filled Filled This bubbly cup of coffee, cup of noon-11pm) real h han Market; mains Rs 60-350; 12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm) 12.30-3.30pm & ; 51-54C Moolchand Flyover Mar-; 51-54C Moolchand 9am-midnight) h (Map p136 ; 11 N-Block, Connaught p136 (Map h Hip and happening, Barista

There are now two BC are branches There (Map pp120-1 (Map (Map pp120-1 ; Community Centre, New Friends Centre, ; Community pp120-1 (Map 9pm-1am) (Map ; pp132-3 K

(Map p136 ; 16 N-Block, Connaught Place; snacks p136 (Map

h noon-11pm) Barista Big Chill Café Day Coffee Ego Thai Ego Thai Flavours savage summer thirst. There are many city- are There summer thirst. savage including one at Khan Market wide branches (Map pp132–3 ). h equally merry and both in Khan Market, from James with wall-to-wall film posters, and rosehip. Rs 27-65; serves including smoked- comforting café fare muffins, and, of tuna sandwiches, choc-chip include course, foamy cappuccinos. Branches ), South Exten- pp132–3 (Map Khan Market Colony ), Defence pp120–1 I (Map sion Part Vihar’s ) and Vasant pp120–1 (Map Market ). pp120–1 Basantcomplex (Map Lok Place; snacks Rs 35-70; café is a fabulous place to loll around and brown- hot brew, cups of endless over natter ies and caramelised-walnut The sand- pie. either, while bad and focaccias aren’t wiches the icy granitas even the most will quench sandwiches (with ciabatta) and tempting sandwiches (with ciabatta) and tempting desserts. DRINKING and buttery coffee espresso its Whether beer or and burgers sants for breakfast, crois cafés and hip bars for supper, Delhi’s perky deliver. Cafés Caffeine addicts won’t suffer withdrawal a symptoms from lack of thanks to Delhi’s rockin’ café scene, where is Tea all the rage. are cappuccinos and lattes beginning to turn heads though, with more menus flaunting everything from and more Caravan, to chamomile and Russian Earl Grey (coconut-based curry) and similarly satiat-and similarly curry) (coconut-based ing dishes. 200-420; Colony; mains Rs Thai restaurants Delhi’s most likeable One of skip but atmosphere), for more (go upstairs the satay sticks. ket, Ring Rs 230-440; Rd; mains gleefully tucking into appetizing with diners pizzas; the fet- pasta dishes and wood-fired salmon the grilled- and tuccine with smoked good get pizza vegetable-and-goats-cheese salads, gourmet also fresh are There reports.

A gassi loo phai loo phai agnolotti agnolotti 29223456; M73 GK % 12.30-3.30pm & 7-10pm) 12.30-3.30pm & Supremely scrump- Supremely 29215673; M-Block, GK II; h Master the art of eating art of the Master % 12.30-3.30om & 7.30-11.30pm) Hare KrishnaHare Iskcon temple complex, This teeny This takeaway does h (Map pp120-1 ; M84 GK II; parathas Rs pp120-1 (Map (filled with alcohol-soaked (filled with alcohol-soaked

DELHI •• Drinking Delectable dosas, irresistible Delectable dosas, irresistible (Map pp120-1 ;

(Map pp120-1 ; Basant Lok complex; noon- ; Basant pp120-1 (Map

11am-midnight) (spinach), sweet soyabean, corn, (spinach), (Map pp120-1 ; Market;; Defence mains pp120-1 (Map

(asparagus-and-ricotta-stuffed pasta noon-midnight) h (Map pp120-1 ;

(Map pp120-1 ;

palak 11am-11pm) h (Map pp120-1 ; Defence Colony Market;; Defence dosas Rs 43- pp120-1 (Map

and other authentic South Indian spe- (spare ribs), soya and wine chilli-fish and, ribs), soya and wine chilli-fish (spare 12.30-3.15pm & 7.30-11.15pm; mains Rs 420-790) h Diva China Garden Arabian NitesArabian Swagath the excellent dhal-e-Swagath, chicken the excellent dhal-e-Swagath, chicken this multilevel restaurant swarms with locals this multilevel restaurant for (always a good sign), who gather here tious Indian fare with a focus on Mangalorean with a focus on Mangalorean tious Indian fare and Chettinad cuisine (especially seafood), DEFENCE COLONY AREA DEFENCE COLONY AREA Sagar prawns. The chocolate soufflé is orgasmic. prawns. The chocolate della casa pillows in thyme sauce) and wood-grilled h with a carefully Italianstylish restaurant thought-out menu that includes on request, homemade date pancakes. The pancakes. homemade date on request, googly-eyed Dragon fish in the foyer’s tank strictly ornamental. are Chinese restaurant doesChinese sensational restaurant kut Spread over three levels and with a subter- levels three over Spread this well-regarded ranean bar-nightclub, II; mains Rs 225-850; sharabi paratha sharabi dried fruit). clude just to name a few. mushroom and broccoli, try the adventurous For something more paratha, including low-calorie (wholemeal, paratha, including low-calorie options. Stuffings in- smothered) olive-oil with your hands at this chirpy cutlery-free cutlery-free chirpy with your hands at this than 120 types of more are There restaurant. Not Just Parathas KAILASH GREATER (around 30 on other days) – come on an empty (around 30 on other days) stomach! Indian buffet is indeed otherworldly. Every Indian buffet is indeed Every otherworldly. 56 dishes a jaw-dropping Sunday there’s East of Kailash; Rs 180; buffet ‘transcendentalPromising a experi- dining (no onion or garlic) pure-veg ence’, Govinda’s EAST OF KAILASH EAST OF KAILASH Govinda’s 11pm; snacks Rs 45-230) 11pm; snacks lonelyplanet.com 65; Rs 125-475; idlis cialities. 40-155; mighty good chicken doner kebab. doner mighty chicken good DELHI Bookstore, Khan Market; mainsRs95-295; Market; Bookstore, Khan Mon-Sat) less stated). 20%/12.5%; taxes aren’t includedhere un- pack anastypunch (alcoholic/nonalcoholic mestic andforeign booze,but thetaxes can flip-flops) appliesatmost places. dress code(noshorts, scrappysinglettopsor tions intoscreaming matches. Asmart-casual conversa-anytime after 8pm,turningcivilised that mostbarspumpupthe music seriously warned long after thesuncallsitquits.Be Delhi partieshard bling upasnightclubs), With ablossomingbarscene(mostbars dou- frothy cappuccinoswhenDelhigets dark. seductive beverages replace milkychai and Screwdrivers ontheBeach, andsimilarly Sex Bars &Nightclubs cakes,sandwiches, andthelike. salads Cha hastheusual(café)suspects–muffins, honey andnuts.Ifyou’ve gotthemunchies, something more nourishing,trythemilkwith thyme.liquorice, peppermintandeven For der over itslonglistof teas which include bookstore,attached popintoChaandpon- Mon-Sat, noon-7.30pmSun) Rd;snacks Rs45-105; 148 Barakhamba dapper downtowncafé. That’s justasplashof what’sonoffer atthis focaccias, andadamnfinedate andfigcake. chicken andpestosandwiches, etable salsa white chocolatetarts, cookies,veg- muffins, milkshakes,English-toffee almondcroissants, 75; cucumber). juice(fromguava to iced teas andseasonal includeice-creamlights sodas,milkshakes, and falafel wrapswithhummus.Liquidde- there’s also quiche, couscoussalad bruschetta, andpastas, sandwiches Apart fromsalads, chocolateteau (the‘gooey cake’ isatriumph). skimpy, theTurtleisterrific forcoffee andga- I); Part Kailash delicious. Thecakesbaked are potatoes. impossibly the chicken-and-blue-cheese fettuccine and made icecream (theTobeleroneistops),to cal, fromthevelvety smoothiesandhome- Vertigo Whale’s 150 Costa Turtle Café The fancierbars are overflowing withdo- Cha Bar h EH • Dikn DELHI ••Drinking 9am-11.30pm) Although some meal servings canbe somemealservings Although

. Everything aboutthemenuismagi- (Map (Map p136 ; L-Block, ConnaughtPlace;snacksRs25- Frankenstein

(Map (Map p136 ; OxfordBookstore, StatesmanHouse,

Khan Market

Greater Kailash Strongcoffee, delicate teas, (Map (Map pp132-3 ; 2ndfl,Full Circle After browsingatthe toAlfred Hitchcock’s (Map (Map pp120-1 ; N8Greater h h 10am-7.30pm 10am-7.30pm large glassRs10/15/20) Bazaar. ( p146 ) isabitpricierthantheabove places, fisher or Foster’s beer isRs72(includingfisher orFoster’s beer Rd; menu. juice andpeachschnapps;Rs395).Pan-Asian snack suchaswoo(cranberryand in-houseconcoctions andbeersaswellSingapore Slings(Rs395)spirits Hotel( Mahal p145 ) where youcanquaffallmannerof and lots of cosy nooks. A can of Kilkenny isRs325. and lotsofcosynooks. AcanofKilkenny Marg; Marg; tax), whileashot oftax), OldMonkrumisapid- except Tuesday. the hotel’s bar andlive Indianmusicnightly (a large at KingfisherisRs72includingtax) around 11pm.They’re located onMap p140 . C boostatoneof the Those nursing hangovers canget avitamin PAHARGANJ Dublin Rick’s our visit: bars/nightclubs. the city’smostsvelte (butwallet-wounding) the blinkof aneye,withfive-star hotels having midnight Sun) 3pmand7.30pm. hour fallsbetween has occasionallive andhappy entertainment bar-restaurant(Rs 275).Thisedgy split-level at Rs250)whilegrazingonamezze platter rona, Heineken, Guinness orKilkenny starts (Co- should dothetrick,orsimplyswill beer one of leather chairs and invitingsofas. Ifit’sbeen swishest watering hole,withaQ-shapedbar, Greenways shop,this is sari Place’s Connaught The followingvenues are onMap p136 . CONNAUGHT PLACE AREA atRs90. start iety. Cocktails but ithasmore pizzazzandoffers greater var- Bazaar) 1634 Main screen TV. and tocatch acricket match onthewide- dly Rs18. Gem Gem GoldRegency Hotel drinksuntil The followingplacesserve Two uberhip hotel drinkingvenues during Q’BA &Bar Restaurant Metropolis DV8 h What’s hotandwhat’snotcanchange in h (Map (Map (Maurya SheratonHotel&Towers,SardarPatel (Maurya

12.30pm-12.45am) AnintimatebarattheTaj

(Regal Bldg; (Regal (De Gem; Main Bazaar) Main (De Gem; those (1st fl,42E-block; 6pm-1am) Irish-themed, withalongwoodenbar 6pm-1am) Irish-themed, p3- T pp132-3 ;

Sure toputthefizzle backinto Go upstairs formore character daysashotof tequila (Rs230) This hotel’s rooftop restaurant h speckled throughout Main speckledthroughout aj Mahal Hotel, Man Singh Hotel,Man aj Mahal (4350 Main Bazaar) (4350 Main

noon-midnight Mon-Sat,4.30pm- h juice stalls noon-midnight) A bottleof King- (Metropolis Tourist Home, Tourist (Metropolis lonelyplanet.com

(small/medium/ Cheap beer Cheap beer Above Above DELHI 151 12.30pm- h 23718833; 23388084; % 23714307; 4 Safdar % 26234689; 24682222; India 26148800; Jaypee % % % % (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map ( p124 ) is especially recom- p124 ( (1st fl, E5 Part II; After shopping in South Ex- After (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map Adjoining the Ego Thai res- the Ego Adjoining (Community Centre, New Friends New (Community Centre, Colony; (Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map (Map ; pp132-3

(Map ; pp120-1 (Ansal Plaza, Khel Gaon Marg;

Bharata Natyam (Tamil dance), Kathakali,

First City If you’re in the area, English pub– English in the area, If you’re 23387246; Rabindra Marg) Bhavan, Copernicus 6.45pm) A one-hour performance dances of regional 24619431; 40 Max Mueller Marg) 7.30-11.30pm) noon-midnight) Ego Lounge Lizard Lounge Geoffrey’s % Habitat Centre, Lodi Rd) Habitat Centre, bhangra and Manipuri. sold on site. Tickets Marg) 205 Tansen that includes Hashmi Rd) Triveni Kala Sangam Cinemas session details. for movie Consult newspapers an online booking The PVR cinemas have option at www.pvrcinemas.com. Parsi Anjuman Hall, BahadurParsi Shah Zafar Marg;Rs 200; h Habitat World India International Centre Kamani Auditorium Sangeet Natak Akademi Shri Ram Centre Lounge Tapas midnight) for a is recommended themed Geoffrey’s or beer on tap – Tea languid Long Island Iced prawns or chicken with lemongrass perfect tikka. ENTERTAINMENT Cultural Programmes performing arts Delhi’s dynamic To access scene, peruse and maga- local newspapers zines – mended. Dance, theatrical, music and talk venues: Dances of India burnt-chilli-and-orange-liqueur sliced duck sliced duck burnt-chilli-and-orange-liqueur first. is a Delhi h ) and crammed with couches, p149 taurant ( than this. loungier much can’t get you really the usual beerApart from there’s and spirits, Italian, Californian wine and Aussie French, glides music per glass). Ego’s (from Rs 275 between salsa, World, ’80s pop, hip-hop and depending on the clientele. h Vasant Continental Hotel Basant Lok complex, Vasant Continental Hotel Basant Lok complex, Vasant Vasant Vihar) Salsa night every Saturday from 9.30pm with an experienced instructor on hand. Mandi House, Copernicus Marg) % tension ( p153 ) wiggle) your way to the Lizard p153 ( tension for a revitalising drink.

A noon- h Up a flight shish taouk shish 11.30am-12.45am) 11.30am-12.45am) noon-midnight) h h

(18 N-Block, Greater Kailash(18 N-Block, Greater I; (Basant Lok complex, Vasant (Basant Lok complex, Vasant

noon-midnight) A trendy lounge-bar (ad- lounge-bar A trendy h (18 N-Block;

DELHI •• Entertainment This loungey bar-restaurant, bar-restaurant, This loungey (Basant Lok complex, Vasant Vihar; (Basant Lok complex, Vasant (34 E-Block; Mega-stylish, Kylin is ideal for an Kylin is ideal for an Mega-stylish, noon-midnight) (Imperial hotel, Janpath;

h noon-midnight) Spirit Kylin Hookah Bar & Lounge Shalom Med Lounge Bar Regent’s Blues 1911 sive beverage list. There’s also an appealing also list. There’s beverage sive menu, with dim sum and Oriental-inspired substantial – the dishes as well as more sushi unhurried drink and Cuban cigar. Twenty Twenty unhurried drink and Cuban cigar. on its exten- single-malt whiskies feature sheesha pipe. you can drink a decent gin and tonic, snack on and puff on a fruit-flavoured vine leaves Greek Vihar; Bank) where jacent to the Standard Chartered back lane. Mediterranean fare such as such fare Mediterranean Entry is via a chicken). (spiced chargilled h pp120–1 . SOUTH DELHI on Map are The following drinking venues cosmopolitan flavour, amicable staff amicable cosmopolitan flavour, and a good Lebanese-speciality food menu. A glass wine is Rs 200/300. domestic/imported of free zone. free has a this dimly-lit bar-restaurant stairs, of loose was the soundtrack of choice when we choice loose was the soundtrack of snob- gritty RB is a refreshingly beer’ed here), pecially during happy hour (4pm to 8pm). pecially during happy muzak (Foot- cheesy Thumping to the beat of dark den where the hoi polloi gather, es- the hoi polloi dark den where your sanity after madly hagglingyour sanity at the nearby after Market. (Tibetan) Janpath stress-banishing and guaranteed to restore and guaranteed to restore stress-banishing Named after the year in which Delhi was pro- year in which the Named after capital, India’s claimed British bar this grand from killer than 500 beverages, boasts more apple marti- (Rs 550) to green Bloody Marys certainly but it’s nis (Rs 600). It ain’t cheap, there’s a good food menu. Happy hour is from menu. Happy a good food there’s 4pm to 8pm. relaxing spot to knock back a few drinks. drinks. to knock back a few spot relaxing Budweiser Rs 250, Baileys costs 180 and is Rs fizzled-out souls, this convivial bar, with its bar, with this convivial souls, fizzled-out TVwide-screen is a magazines, and glossy lonelyplanet.com midnight) with its rustic wooden furniture and white- with its rustic wooden furniture you to down an ‘Angry washed walls, dares Fijian’ (crème de banana, Baileys and Mal- The ibu) or other similarly exotic beverages. your soul ‘happiness comes when you feed menu is true to its word, with blissful first’ DELHI government products emporiums showcase pandemonium, thisisthe oldcity’sfamed Chandni Chowk NORTH DELHI Markets &Complexes forlunch 1.30pmand 2.30pm). between close fabulousshopsjustice(some hours todothese aside several aroundthecountry. Set from right h products andheapsmore. papier-mâché, brassware, textiles, beauty silverware, jewellery,pottery, woodcarvings, Aladdin’s cave of India-widehandicrafts: % prices inthebazaars. you didn’tfindcomparable productsatbetter hitting themarkets –youcanalwaysreturn if ible toscouthere toget anideaof pricesbefore elsewhere, you’re assured of quality.It’ssens- than pricescanbehigher country. Although poriums, which stockitems fromacrossthe hassle-free fixed-priceBrowse atthese em- Government &StateEmporiums through dations (manyof exhibits),flick which sell their shopping suggestions. stores either,makingitbesttopolitely decline and maynottake youtothemostreputable inflated price)healthycommissions, purchase andautorickshaw driverstaxi earn(viayour price shops,beprepared hard.Many tohaggle varieties, tocasualcottonsandcrepes. fromlavish andgeorgettesaris silk,chiffon You’ll alsofindasterling range of regional work, brassware, jewelleryandleatherwork. crafts, textiles, clothingandcarpets,towood- There’sparadise. plentyonoffer, fromhandi- haute couture From energy-zapping bazaars tochilled-out SHOPPING Rd, Patel Nagar) Satyam Cineplex Cinema Priya PVR PlazaCinema PVR 4) (Anupam Saket PVR 152 Connaught Place) Saket Community Centre, Saket) CommunityCentre, Saket) Saket Basant Lokcomplex,Vasant Vihar) For dependable artgalleryrecommen- Apart fromtheemporiumsandotherfixed- State Emporiums State Emporium CottageIndustries Central 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) 23326790; Janpath; EH • Sopn DELHI ••Shopping First City (Map (Map p128 ; OldDelhi; boutiques,Delhiisashoppers’ (Map (Map pp120-1 ; (Map (Map pp120-1 ; (Map (Map p136 ;

Mp p136; (Map . These side-by-side These state h (Map (Map pp120-1 ; 10am-7pm) % Baba Kharak Singh Marg; Baba Kharak % % 41516787; H-Block, h 25893322; Patel Amultilevel 9810708625; % Mon-Sat) 41671787;

Mp p136; (Map Pure

7.30pm Mon-Sat) 9pm Tue-Sun) h clothing, butalsoworthavisitforitshand- ship isinGreater Kailash) see opposite . and home-furnishings chain (Fab’s mother- h Fabindia DELHI CENTRAL alternative tothemostlyfriedvarieties. neys –theroasted green lentilsare ahealthy (savoury nibbles)are idealforlongtrainjour- Rs 100per100gandwellpacked). Their side shops withsimilar spices(mostaround Roopak’s (6/9Ajmal Rd)twoside-by- Khan kidswear tokitchenware. spice-happyat Get competitively-priced consumergoods,from 7pm Tue-Sun) the touristseason. Monday, manyshops remain openduring on closed officially a tinyRs10.Although necklaces, which make great at gifts,start bongs.Wood-bead bindisandeven incense, leatherware, oil, costumejewellery,essential Paharganj haspilesof bargain T-shirts, shawls, theboxed (see text,on allsenses opposite ). jumble of frenzied bazaars isaveritable assault the noon to9pm.Windingyourwaythrough from around10amto7pmandothers from shopping strip,withsomestores opening to bargain. ably quoted inflated prices,sodon’t beshy at Delhi’smiddle-class. Touristsare invari- electronics, fake wristwatches, CDs etc) aimed with allsortsof consumergoods(clothing, especially justbefore theDiwalifestival. is ludicrous–arrive early toavoid queues, mint. Themulticounter purchasing system tomangoand to eat,frombasilandrosewater are alsonaturalsoapsthatlookgoodenough spicesandhenna. Theremade paper,incense, for its Sansad Marg; thejunk.Hagglethrough hard. hotel. Ithas somegoodfindsifyourummage touristy beltrunningnorthof theImperial dangly earringsandtrinkets galore, isthis ourful shawls,brassoms,psychedelic T-shirts, with itsshimmering mirrorworktextiles, col- Janpath (Tibetan) Market Market Janpath (Tibetan) Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan Khadi Karol Bagh Karol Bazaar Main Palika Bazaar Palika 10am-7pm) 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) khadi

(Map (Map p136 ; www.fabindia.com; 1stfl,28B-Block; The backpacker-oriented spineof h Thismiddle-classmarket sells For aboutthisclothing details

(homespuncloth)Indian-style market A bustlingunderground bazaar

(Map p140 ; Paharganj; Paharganj; p140; (Map 10.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Mp p3 Cnagt Place; Connaught p136; (Map

Mp pp120-1; (Map

Beckoning tourists Beckoning (Map (Map p136 Bldg, ; Regal Mp p3 Janpath; p136; (Map lonelyplanet.com h h Best known Best around 10am- around 10am- h namkin 11am-

DELHI 153 11.30am-9pm 11.30am-9pm (Map pp120-1 ; A calm green A calm green around 10.45am- h (Map pp132-3 ; Chana- h This market attracts This market (Map ; pp120-1 After sightseeing After at Safdar- (Map pp132-3 ; (Map pp132-3 ; 9/172 Jor Bagh Market;; pp132-3 (Map

Favoured by expats and Delhi’s Favoured around 10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) This urban ‘village’ is known for its is known urban ‘village’ This h 9.30am-7.30pm) around 11am-8pm Tue-Sun) around 11am-8pm Tue-Sun) Santushti Shopping Complex Khan Market Central Market Hauz Khas Village C.Lal & Sons kyapuri; sprinkled with swanky boutiques, San- haven Delhi’s boisterous tushti is the antithesis of 7.30pm Mon-Sat) devoted has shops to fashion this enclave elite, (including tailoring),books, sunglasses, home- and accessories. This is also the place to ware Australian grape- find gourmet groceries, from paperware For handmade fruit to Italian pesto. out etc) check (cards, diaries, photo albums of a small branch There’s Anand Stationers. Saturday Avoid ) here. left (see here Fabindia when the crowds can be exasperating. h locals on the prowl for house- bargain-hunting hold goods, clothing and jewellery. If you’ve with those colourful jangly bangles fallen in love widely worn by Indian women, you can find them here. Mon-Sat) and fur- boutiques, art galleries glam clothing Delhi’s upper crust. to catering shops niture h little drop into this humble jang’s tomb, Mr Lal. shop’ owned by the kindly iosity ‘cur diplomats for its by Delhi-based loved Much decorations, it also dazzling Christmas-tree as priced handicrafts such sells competitively toy camels/ eggs, soft painted papier-mâché elephants, carvings, silk scarves and pretty necklace. beads to string your own glass

(Map 11am- h An upmarket An upmarket Wed-Mon) The blink-and-you’ll- h Opposite INA Market, this INA Market, Opposite DELHI •• Shopping Opposite PVR Plaza Cinema, PVR Opposite (Map p136 ; Regal; Sansad Marg; Bldg, p136 (Map

(Map pp120-1 ; Aurobindo Marg; Rs admission ; Aurobindo pp120-1 (Map (Map pp120-1 ; Khel Gaon Marg; pp120-1 (Map

(Map p136 ; 1st fl, 44 K-Block, Connaught Place; ; 1st fl, 44 K-Block, p136 (Map

A modern shopping mall squarely squarely A modern shopping mall 10.30am-10pm) For silver jewellery (some gold) head for Dariba Kalan, near the Sisganj Gurdwara. Nearby Kalan, jewellery (some gold) head for Dariba Nearby For silver the Sisganj Gurdwara. near Masjid, on , is the nose-numbing with Market, Spice ablaze Near the Fatehpuri 10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) 10.30am-7pm 9.30am-7.30pm) A BAZAAR AFFAIR AFFAIR A BAZAAR ) is a headspinning assault on p128 bazaars (Map pandemonium of Old Delhi’s convoluted The and an aromatic muddle of flowers, urine, the senses, with a mindbending array of things to see busiest bazaars are frenetic These one whiff. incense, chai, fumes and frying food, all discernible in around 11.30am Come at other afternoons. (and best avoided) on Monday and Friday and during is bearable. opened and the jostling when most shops have Kinari sari borders to iridescent tinsel decora- Bazaar has a focus on bridal gear, from fancy while electri- and linen, cloth market, not surprisingly, sells swathes of uncut material The tions. the speciality of Lajpat Rai Market. Chowri Bazaar is the wholesale paper and cal gadgets are market. wholesale stationery and books and also has Nearby, Nai Sarak deals in greeting-card a portion to saris. devoted turmeric, as chilli powder, brown masala blends and burnt-orange powdery piles of scarlet-red come hermetically rarely Being a wholesale market,spices here and nuts. well as pickles, tea ) in Karol Bagh. opposite sealed – for these, go to Roopak’s ( Dilli Haat Greater Kailash’s M-Block & N-Block Markets Soma People TreePeople h It also sells organic jams and bodycare prod- jams and bodycare It also sells organic ucts. Next door is Cottons (open 10.30am to has a smaller clothing selection7pm), which but is also worth a peek. 10am to 7.30pm), which has fantastic has 10am to 7.30pm), which ready- made clothes that won’t look odd back home. garment and home-furnishings store Fabindia Fabindia store garment and home-furnishings open www.fabindia.com; Market; (N-Block pp120-1 ; Greater Kailash; Greater I; pp120-1 best known for its awesome shopping enclave rather contrived open-air food-and-crafts mar- open-air rather contrived qual- variable of handicrafts sells regional ket food stallsity. The on-site cook up regionally the busy weekends. Avoid cuisine. diverse selling designer clothes, foreign-brand cos- selling foreign-brand designer clothes, jewellery etc. metics, fashionable costume geared towards well-to-do locals, with shops towards well-to-do locals, with shops geared SOUTH DELHI SOUTH DELHI Ansal Plaza and more. mitts, aprons, scarves, shirts, table linen, cos- clothing children’s metic bags, cushion covers, h oven textiles: block-printed Soma has brilliant (men and women) shoulder bags, ethnic cos- shoulder (men and women) and books. tume jewellery miss-it People Tree sells avant-garde T-shirts T-shirts sells Tree avant-garde miss-it People shirts as well as skirts, dresses, (from Rs 170) h lonelyplanet.com 9.30pm) 10; DELHI this genteel enclave inIndianand specialises Tablas/trumpets/sitars/guitars Rs 3000/3000/2500/2500. 12 K-Block, ConnaughtPlace; Rangarsons Music Depot Music Rangarsons 3. Thewebsitedetailswhat’s onoffer. h .indianmusicalinstruments.com; 1070Paiwalan, OldDelhi; Delhi Indian andnon-Indianmusicalinstruments: reputableThese outletsstockawiderange of MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS Music 75 each) are avisualthrillwhenbrewed. dants thangreen tea, whilethedragonballs(Rs more even tocontain per 40g)issaid antioxi- make refreshing icedteas. Thewhite tea (Rs340 50g) andmango(Rs80per100g);thelatter two 100g), tohibiscus(withreal Rs80per petals; kahwa tea (Rs50per100g)andKashmirimasala most varieties).There’s plentyonoffer, from (for ucts andoffer tea tastings complimentary Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4pmSun) 11am-5pm Sun) here: replicas). There are teashops twooutstanding Nepali handicraftsand‘antiques’(mostare 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) jewellery andflashyhairclips. with aglittering treasure trove of costume wear. Bg’s(G5Part I)isstrictlychick territory, handbagsandsports- ing, jewellery,shoes, sides of designercloth- theroad,each selling ket of iscomprised twoenclaves, onopposite h Sarojini swarmswithelbowingshoppers. Bargain hard.Avoid Sundayafternoons when andmissing buttons. stains crooked seams, a cancelledline. Checkforholes,faultyzips, theywerebecause anexportsurplusorfrom thathaveing stalls), dumpedhere been either outthelaneslinedexclusively withcloth- (seek 8pm Tue-Sun) from tablecloths togarments. inqualityblock-printed textiles,specialises while Anokhi including GaneshpendantsfromRs1800, sublimeoldgoldandsilverEaters sells pieces mini-cigarillosetc.Meanwhile,idoff Lotus Kastro’s which hasfineCubancigars, Dav- bazaars. Cigaraficionadoswillappreciate 154 Sunder NagarMarket Sarojini NagarMarket South Extension Market Parts I&II Parts Market South Extension 10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) Opposite Jama Masjid’s Gate No Gate 10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) OppositeJamaMasjid’s around 11am-8pmTue-Sun)

EH • GtigTee&Aa There &Away DELHI ••Getting Musical Regalia TeaRegalia House (green tea withcardamon;Rs90per Good-value Western-style clothes and

Stores Stores

(branch Market) also atKhan Mittal TeaMittal House Mp p128; (Map Just southof PuranaQila, . Theystocksimilarprod- (Map pp120-1; (Map

h

Mp p136; (Map ( h Mp pp132-3; (Map This high-class mar-This high-class 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, % ( h % 23276909; www h Mp pp120-1; (Map

10am-7.30pm 10am-7.30pm 23413831; around 11am- h around

floors: 1st/2ndforEnglish/Indianmusic. length skirts fromRs400(excludingmaterial). length skirts ankle- from Rs5000to25,000(includingmaterial); skirts (withlining)costRs250. skirts costRs300,women’s trousers(excluding material) Men’s K-Block, ConnaughtPlace; Market; II; Part Market hensive details. theexcellentwebsiteforcompre- See Near GoleMarket. 144 BhagatSinghMarket; Rs 500 (excluding material). TailoringRs 500(excludingmaterial). possiblein24hours. from ladieslongskirts from Rs3500(excludingmaterial), Connaught Place; Delhi ClothHouse atlightening speed. places willsew some although fortailoring, Allow aweek Tailors Planet M h Shop Music the following: while suburbanrecommendations include lots of Place, littlemusicshops inConnaught car asmostonlyhave decks.There cassette are range of –handyifyou’re cassettes hiringa fusion)andalimited ing East-meets-West Music retailers of stockstacks CDs(includ- &CDS MUSIC CASSETTES SubhashMargalong Neetaji inDaryaganj. the For competitively pricedinstruments,inspect Music Ram’s Rikhi Ram Rikhi pp120–1 ) are around15km southwest of Con- Indira Gandhi International Airport (Map The domesticterminals (Terminal 1)of the Air duringthisperiod. flights nottobookback-to-backules), makingitwise and January (often disruptingairlinesched- port canbepronetothickfoginDecember sive bus,railandairconnections. Delhi’sair- also acentre fordomestictravel, withexten- Delhi isamajor international gateway. It’s GETTING THERE&AWAY New ProminentTailors &Sons M Ram sitars (Rs22,000/32,000),tablas5500)andmuchmore. naught Place; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) musical instrumentshops h (Map (Map pp120-1 ; (Map (Map p136 ; 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Men’s woolsuits 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)Men’s (Map (Map pp132-3 ; h h (Map (Map p136 ; h 11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) Classic/electric 11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat)Classic/electric 11am-8.30pm) Twowell-arranged (Map (Map pp132-3 ; ( 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) Men’s suits 10am-8pm Mon-Sat)Men’s % % h h % (Map (Map p136 ; 23340496; www.rikhiram.org; 23340496; www.rikhiram.org; % 23327685; 8G-Block,Con- % 11am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) 11.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) 26251620; South Extension 26251620; SouthExtension 24618464; Khan Market; Market; 24618464; Khan 23416558; 21E-Block, Mp p128 ; (Map

% lonelyplanet.com % 24618937; Khan 24618937; Khan 23418007; 25 h Mon-Sat)

DELHI , 155 Inter State 23357747; % 43513202; 23860290; Kashmiri 23357965; Prakash 41512121; Gopal 23724200; 56 23356283; Ashoka (RNAC; Map p136 ; p136 (RNAC; Map % (Map p136 ; 23383469; Pandara Rd) 23383469; Pandara % % % % % 23324922; Chandralok 41528181; World Trade 41528181; World % (Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map % % 23466262; 7 Atma Ram23466262; 7 Atma Man- 66314444; DLF Centre, Sansad 66314444; DLF Centre, 23731225; Jeevan Bharati Bldg, 23723241; 15-17 Tolstoy Marg)23723241; 15-17 23324293; 12 G-Block, Con- (Map p136 ; p136 (Map 23321345; PrakashBldg, 7 Deep % Corporation

951244120747; DLF Plaza Tower, 951244120747; DLF Plaza Tower, % % % (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map % % % ( (Map pp132-3 ;

(Map p136 ; p136 (Map , north of the (Old) Delhi train the (Old) Delhi train , north of (ISBT; Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (ISBT; Map (Map pp120-1 ; pp120-1 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map 24hr) (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map h 23737791; 23 Barakhamba Rd) 23321164; 44 Janpath) 41497777; Park Royal Intercontinental Hotel, America 41497777; Park Delhi’s main bus station is the Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Marg) Das Bhavan, 28 Barakhamba Rd) Tolstoy Marg) Connaught Place) Janpath) Thapar House, 124 Janpath) naught Place) % 15 hours, one daily service at 7.30pm); one daily service15 hours, at 7.30pm); Ajmer at 7.30pm, 10pm and daily (Rs 36, nine hours, one 11.15pm); and Jodhpur (Rs 460, 11 hours, daily service at 10pm). Bus Terminal Gate; Marg, Connaught Place) Royal Nepal Airlines % Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines Thai International Airways Bus Bikaner House buses. good state-run operates near India Gate, Rs services (non-AC/AC are There to Jaipur several270/460, six hours, services daily be- tween 6am and midnight); Udaipur (Rs 518, El Al Israel Airlines Emirates Gulf Air Japan Airlines KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines Lufthansa Airlines Malaysian Airlines Pakistan International Airlines Qantas sent back. At the check-in counter, ensure you ensure counter, sent At the check-in back. tagscollect (manda- attach to luggage to hand securitytory to clear later). Airlines Aeroflot Air Canada Air France Air India British Airways Prakash Marg) Deep Bldg, 7 Tolstoy Plaza, Nehru Pl) Estate Bldg, 24 Barakhamba Rd) % Bldg, 36 Janpath) Tower, Barakhamba Rd) sion, Connaught Place) DLF Phase 1, Qutb Enclave, Gurgaon)

(Map 10am- or the or the h 24631337; Au- is at Con- international % 23730238; 42

. 23326851; Gopal Das % 23721593; Vandana 23721593; Vandana 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am- % 39841111; 40 N-Block, Con- % . For Indian Airlines’ Indian Airlines office inquiries 9818177008) 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) h % 25675126) (Map pp132-3 ; % h

(Map p136 ; p136 (Map DELHI •• Getting & Away There h ( 7am-11pm) 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun) (Map p136 ; p136 (Map (Map p136 ; p136 (Map h 25652011; www.delhiairport.com) 23313317; F-Block, Malhotra Bldg, Connaught h (Map p136 ; p136 (Map have your check-in bags X-rayed your check-in have (no office; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) % % 1407. (

h must % For flight inquiries, call the Other domestic airlines (for websites seeOther domestic airlines (for websites naught Place; Bldg, 11 Tolstoy Marg; Bhavan, 28 Barakhamba Rd, Connaught Place; 5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) and sealed – don’t forget to do this or you’ll be and sealed – don’t forget Departures Departures You 24-hour money-exchange facilities, a prepaid facilities, a prepaid 24-hour money-exchange and a tourist information coun- taxi counter is only open The train booking counter ter. from 8am to 8pm. Arrivals Arrivals airport’s arrivals hall has The international INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL Sahara Airlines Kingfisher Airlines Jet Airways Air Deccan Jagson Airlines recorded flight arrival and departure details, flight arrival and departure recorded dial Safdarjang airfield robindo Marg; Place; office at also a ticket naught There’s Place. Airlines Airlines The most convenient pp120-1 ; domestic terminal. Indian Airlines. If this is the case,Indian Airlines. If this you must not the terminal, at the international check-in with Air India, the country’s international international with Air India, the country’s carrier, domestic carrier, rather than its major you’ve just arrived and have an onward con- an onward and have just arrived you’ve in India, it may be nection to another city Check-in at the airport for domestic flightsCheck-in at the airport that if Note departure. is one hour before DOMESTIC DOMESTIC & Departures Arrivals airport domestic airport Air Link Transport Service ( p158 ). p158 ServiceAir Link Transport ( terminals or you can use or you terminals the Ex-Servicemen’s naught Place, and the international terminal terminal naught the international Place, and There’s 8km away. is a further 2) (Terminal shuttle bus between the two (free) a frequent lonelyplanet.com N-Block, Connaught Place; 6pm Sat & Sun) above ): above DELHI 156 and website bookings with some carriers can be markedly cheaper. withsomecarrierscanbemarkedly and website bookings request reservations themostdirect route. (quickest) making Note thatairlinepricesfluctuate Timetable ofAirServices WithinIndia These are justsomedomesticairroutes –forcomprehensive andcurrent details,see DOMESTIC FLIGHTS FROMDELHI T 1daily 3daily 1daily 5 5 DN 3 SG 2 7 IT 1¾ daily 221 9W 11 11 IC IT S2 Mumbai daily 1 9W IC 1 daily 1¼ 156 6 Leh 9W 126 daily 1¾ 186 1 DN 4 daily Kullu JA daily 2 3 daily DN daily weekly 251 3 daily IC IC 3 daily S2 Kolkata 5daily 1½ 9W 1 Khajuraho 131 4 daily 9W 1 weekly 1 45min Jodhpur CD 81 1 daily IC daily 2 Jaipur 9W 1 SG daily daily 9W 2 260 2 DN daily 3 2 S2 daily Hyderabad IC 1½ 2 G8 weekly 1 daily SG 1 206 IT daily 1 1 daily IC 2½ 281 daily Goa S2 5 Dharamsala JA 4 daily 2½ 9W S2 daily 3 DN 3 321 daily 4 daily daily IC daily Chennai 9W 4 2½ 4 IT daily 3 2 SG 1 311 daily 4 126 daily IC daily weekly 1¼ daily Bengaluru S2 IC daily 171 1 SG 1 daily S2 9W 2 daily Ahmedabad IC Destination Airline daily code daily Fare daily Duration (US$) (hr) Frequency DELHI (Rs45),availableatnewsstandsandsomebookshops. When lonelyplanet.com Excel’s DELHI 157 (Rs 45), Trains at a Glance at Trains Women should read Taxis & Public Trans- Taxis read Women should There’s also the Nizamuddin train station There’s Many international flights arrive at ghastly flights international arrive Many Railway porters should charge between between Railway should charge porters and destinations many more are There Many trains between Delhi and Jaipur, trains between Delhi and Jaipur, Many To/From the Airport To/From the Airport is not as straight- Airport-to-city transport taxi be, due to predatory forward as it should . p125 – see drivers in advance so it pays to book a hotel hours, your arrival time. and notify it of pp120–1 ), about 4km northwest of Con- 4km northwest of ), about pp120–1 naught Place. Rs 20 and Rs 30 per bag. p159 – consult at most newsstands, or ask tourist available office staff. GETTING AROUND crowded so horrendously Local buses can get desirable alterna- autorickshaws and taxis are handy for fares. small change Keep tives. ). p1161 section ( port in the Women Travellers which stationwhich serves your destination (New Delhi train station is closer to Connaught from the Delhi departing Place). If you’re time train station adequate allow you should to meander through the often-snail-paced traffic Old Delhi. of Sunder Nagar, where ), south of pp132–3 (Map desti- various trains (usually for south-bound nations) start or finish. to Jodhpur, Bikaner and Udaipur operate train station (Map and from Sarai Rohilla trains than those listed in the boxed text, text, trains than those in the boxed listed

main main 8am-8pm

(Map p140 ; h 23865181; 23868709; Counter 38) % ( believe anyone who % 23381884; Counter 36) 23863473; Counter 40) ( 23861262; Counter 35) not not 23867842; Counter 37) % ( % ( % ( % ( . Do DELHI •• Getting Around International Tourist Bureau 9W 1 daily daily daily weekly daily daily daily weekly 1 1 3 daily 1 125 2 daily 2 JA 4 426 4½ 1 Trivandrum IC 1 2½-3 1 9W 130 DN 1 1¼ CD Udaipur 156 9W S2 Varanasi IC 9W SG Destination Airline code Fare (US$) Duration (hr) Frequency (hr) (US$) Duration Fare code Airline Destination 23405156; 1st fl, New Delhi train station; CD – Alliance Air (Indian Airlines), IC – Indian Airlines, S2 – SaharaCD – Alliance Air (Indian 9W – Jet Airways, Airlines, Air Deccan, SG – Spicejet, IT – KingfisherJA – Jagson Airlines, DN – Airlines, G8 – Go Airlines There are two main stations in Delhi – two main stations in Delhi – are There Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) ) in Old p128 (Old) Delhi train station (Map Delhi, and New Delhi train station (Map you know sure make ) at Paharganj; p140 your passport. There’s a train booking counter a train booking counter your passport. There’s ). p155 at the airport ( receipts) or in US dollars, euros or pounds or in US dollars, receipts) in rupees. Bring is given any change sterling; by money-exchange certificates (or ATM (or ATM certificates by money-exchange stay on your toes let anyone stop and don’t the you from going to the 1st floor of (see the boxed text, p126 ). There are report- are ). There p126 text, (see the boxed in scams, so involved edly railway porters tells you it has shifted, closed you it has shifted, or burnt down – tells you elsewhere this is a rampant scam to divert ings at the % building for bookings. When making reser- Tourist Bureau, vations at the International up must be paid for in rupees backed tickets For foreigners, it’s easiest to make ticket book- ticket it’s easiest to make For foreigners, Roadways Train Roadways Rajasthan Roadways Roadways Himachal Roadways Delhi Transport Corporation your departure time. State-government bus bus State-government time. your departure at the ISBT companies (and their counters) include the following: ity (Rs 15 per bag). This stationity (Rs 15 per bag). This can be cha- ahead of at least 30 minutes otic so arrive station. facil- left-luggage It has a 24-hour lonelyplanet.com Counter 34) DELHI tion onit–insistthatthedriver honours itand, 11pm and5am. to Paharganj; there’s a25% surcharge between tional terminal entrance. Itcostsabout Rs220 justoutsidetheinterna-Booth totheright PolicePrepaidLook fortheDelhiTraffic Taxi TAXI you exitthebuilding. the counter forEATS as isjusttotheright operates arrivals. according toflight Paharganj). asthebus There’s timetable noset Gate (for entrancetoNewDelhitrainstation the major hotels and,enroute, attheAjmeri luggage. atmostof Thebuswilldropyouoff The fare is Rs 50,plus10perlarge pieceof terminals) anditsoffice, nearIndianAirlines. 10pm) p136; Map The BUS the airportarrivalshall. charge fortheperson collectingyoutoenter airport parkingfee (uptoRs120)and60 than aprepaid fromtheairportdueto taxi travel agency orhotel, it’smore expensive if youarrange a anairportpick-upthrough aware that placard withyournameonit.Be someoneholdinga thanseeing haul flight There’s nothingmore comfortingafter along- PREARRANGED PICK-UPS 158 You’ll begiven avoucher withthedestina- When leaving theinternational terminal, A –ordinary, B–deluxe, C–AC erratic (inquire attravel agencies). buttheirschedulescanbe frompublicbuses,there private areApart busservices comfortable PUBLIC BUSES cedGn 3555(/) 4 7.40pm 5am-10.30pm(hourly) 5.15am-11pm(hourly) 4.30am-11pm(hourly) 4.30am-9.30pm(hourly) 5.30am-10.30pm(hourly) 6am-10pm(half-hourly) 10 12 6am-9pm(half-hourly) 14 232/437/570(A/B/C) 13 11 7 305/515(A/B) Departures 5½ 300(A) 5 Shimla 290/500(A/B) McLeod Ganj 126/211(A/C) 360/600/800 Manali 132/255/360(A/B/C) 130/200(A/B) 225(A) Kullu 325/550/690 Duration(hr) 9am Dharamsala 1-10pm Dehra Dun Chandigarh (A/B/C) (Rs) fare One-way Amritsar (A/B/C) Agra 16 (hourly) Destination 13 Ex-Servicemen’s Air Link Transport Service AirLinkTransport Ex-Servicemen’s has a bus service between the airport (both theairport(both between hasabusservice EH • GtigAon Around DELHI ••Getting % 23316530; F-Block,ConnaughtPlace; h (EATS;

8am- only fortravel withinDelhi. charges Therates applyforthese. beloware buthigher yond Delhi(includingRajasthan) hour, 80kmlimitperday.Alloffer tours be- reports fromtravellers. hasaneight- Each cars tipsread –forimportant above . Numerous operators offer chauffeur-driven HIRING ACAR&DRIVER Car Bus 604or620 Bus 505 Bus 101,104or139 naught Place) such asthe orfinishing point, try toboardatastarting within thecityprecincts. possible, Whenever Tickets costamaximumof Rs15fortravel routes.they alloperate set alongthesame andothers arebuses, privately owned,but The DelhiTransportCorporationrunssome Bus booking counter isinsidetheterminal. without thatdocket thedriver won’tget paid. your voucher untilyouget toyourdestination; if not,return surrender tothebooth.Never Kumar Tourist TaxiKumar Tourist Service Chanakyapuri. Fort. Red [email protected]; 14/1K-Block, ConnaughtPlace; [email protected]; Useful buses: The followingcompaniesget positive At thedomesticairport,prepaid taxi- JanpathtoQutbMinar. , asthere’s more chance of aseat. Shivaji Stadiumterminal Connaught Place (on Sansad Marg) to ConnaughtPlace(onSansadMarg) ShivajiStadiumterminaltothe (Map (Map p136 ; lonelyplanet.com Mp p3 Con- p136; (Map %

23415930; DELHI 159 24369912. % At the time of writing, three sections of the sections of three writing, of At the time sold at Metro 6 to Rs 22) are (Rs Tickets stations; there are also one-/three-day (Rs (Rs also one-/three-day are stations; there short- for unlimited 70/200) ‘tourist cards’ developments For the latest distance travel. maps) see(as well as route www.delhimetro rail.com or call Motorcycle rental, motorcycle For information about . p1175 see Taxi & Autorickshaw but metered All taxis are and autorickshaws working’ or ‘not are you may find the meters Metro Metro has ex- system outstandingDelhi’s Metro efficient servicestremely with arrival/departure Smok- in Hindi and English. announcements as is carrying is prohibited, ing and eating on the roof! and travelling firearms the Shahdara– operational: were system Metro Rithala phase (18 stations), Vi- the Vishwa dalaya–Central Secretariatstations) (10 route and the Dwarka–Barakambha Rd line (28 sta- for completion is scheduled tions). The Metro around 2010. 370/720 (B) 2 daily 6am ND 655/1115 (B) 2105/2840/4870 (C) 34 5½ 1985/2715/4655 (C) 4 weekly 25½ 600/860/1585 (C) daily 107/441/665/1244 (D) 465/915 (B) twice weekly 6 8.50pm HN 5 1485/2210/4135 (C) 11am HN 7.20am ND 1485/2210/4135 (C) 1 daily six weekly 16½ 4½ 17 311/820/1153/1985 (D) 13 7.35pmHN daily 4.40am OD 6 weekly daily daily 6.10am ND 4pm ND 4.55pm HN 6.25pm ND 537/1455/2071/3609 (D) 33 daily 10.30pm ND 2005/2710/4645 (C) 28 twice weekly 4pm HN 635/1215 (B) 5½ daily 4.30pm ND 430/840 (B) 4½ I daily 6.55am ND 700/1385 (B) 6 daily 6.15am ND 269/814/1144/1970 (D) 12 daily 7pm HN 82/266 (A) 3 daily 7.15am HN 8am-9pm) Near the 8am-9pm) h (Map pp132-3 ; pp132-3 (Map Taj Exp Shatabdi Exp Shatabdi Exp Shatabdi Exp Rajdhani Exp Rajdhani Exp Nadu Exp Tamil Shatabdi Exp Intercity Exp Shatabdi Exp Rajdhani Exp Rajdani Exp Mewar Exp Shivganga Rajdani Express Rajdani Express Shatabdi Exp 2432 Rajdhani Exp DELHI •• Getting Around

Agra 2180 Agra (hr) train station train (hr) Destination & name Train No (Rs) Fare Duration Frequency Departures & 2002 Amritsar 2013 2031 Bengaluru Chennai 2622 2430 2434 Haridwar 2414 2017 2015 2004/36 Lucknow Mumbai 2954 Udaipur 2952 Varanasi 2963 2560 Goa Jaipur 2958 24310313; www.metrovista.co.in; 224 Defence 224 Defence 24310313; www.metrovista.co.in; Flyover Bridge the Defence 7.30am-7pm) Under (on Train stations: ND – New Delhi, OD – Old Delhi, HN – Hazrat Nizamuddin Train stations: ND – New Delhi, OD – Old Delhi, HN D – sleeper/ AC, class, C – 3AC/2AC/1st-class B – chair car/executive A – 2nd class/chair car, Fares: AC 3AC/2AC/1st-class MAJOR TRAINS FROM DELHI TRAINS FROM DELHI MAJOR

To purchase a pushbike, the largest range of of range the largest To purchase a pushbike, Cycle-rickshaws are banned from the Con- banned Cycle-rickshaws are h % Colony Flyover Market; Rs 600/750; non-AC/AC per day choice. this is another reliable the Jangpura side), Jhandewalan Cycle Market (Map pp120–1 ). pp120–1 (Map Jhandewalan Cycle Market new and second-hand bicycles can be found at 25). They’re recommended in Chandni Chowk in recommended 25). They’re wiz- veritable are (Old Delhi), as the drivers through the crowds (around ards at weaving for this appreciated are Rs 50 per hour). Tips gruelling work. they can be handy for commuting betweenthey can be handy for (about Rs Connaught Place and Paharganj naught Place area and New Delhi itself, but naught Place area years, but they should still be around duringyears, this book. of the life Authorities have decided to ban cycle-rickshawsAuthorities have in the coming problems) (citing congestion Cycle-Rickshaw & Bicycle Cycle-Rickshaw & Bicycle Metropole Tourist Service non-AC/AC per day Rs 550/650; per day Rs 550/650; non-AC/AC and brothers, Bittoo run by two is this tiny office York Hotel of lowest – beware among Delhi’s Their rates are Titoo. association with this company. frauds claiming lonelyplanet.com DELHI 160 EH • DliMtoMp Map DELHI ••DelhiMetro NOT AVAILABLE IN PICK&MIX THIS MAP lonelyplanet.com DELHI 161 Entrance Tomb Zamin of Imam Qutb Minar com- Ὀ Ὀ Alai Minar 00 0.1 miles 200 m Qutb Minar date from the onset of from the onset date of Alai Altamish Masjid Extension Darwaza Iron 26643856; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/US$5, 26643856; Indian/foreigner Pillar Quwwat-ul-Islam % dawn-dusk) Ὀ Ὀ h Altamish Tomb of (Map p161 ;

From Janpath a return autorickshaw costs a return From Janpath The tower has five distinct storeys, each each distinct storeys, The tower has five The dispute betweenThe dispute king and saint did not The Qutb Minar itself is a soaring tower of The Qutb Minar itself a soaring tower of is Ala-ud-din of tion of the tower, he only got to the 1st storey. tower, he only got to the 1st storey. the tion of it and, in 1368, completed His successors and added the top storeys rebuilt Firoz Shah brought the cupola An earthquake a cupola. QUTB MINAR QUTB MINAR The imposing buildings in the plex video Rs 25; balcony. The first projecting by a marked sandstone, the red made of are storeys three marble and sand- of are 4th and 5th storeys Although Qutb-ud-din began construc- stone. ruler took the workers whom Nizam-ud-din Nizam-ud-din whom the workers ruler took the sainthis shrine, work on for bit- wanted city king, warning that his the cursed terly Today, only by shepherds. would be inhabited this is indeed the situation. to When the king prepared end with a curse. on the saint, Nizam-ud-din vengeance take a long way ‘Delhi is his followers, calmly told off’. Indeedthe king was murdered it was, for 1325. on his way from Delhi in 30 minutes’ includes around Rs 165, which extra hour). waiting time (Rs 25 per Islamic rule in India and are fine examples are Islamic rule in India and Afghan architecture. early of in 1193, immediately victory that was started the last Hindu kingdom in of the defeat after Delhi. It’s nearly 73m high from a and tapers base15m-diameter at the top. to just 2.5m ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ was Indian/ pp120-1 ; 11am-7pm Mon- 8.30am-5.30pm) (Map p140 ; p140 (Map (Map h h

(Map p136 ; Connaught p136 (Map DELHI •• Tughlaqabad GREATER Tughlaqabad 11am-7pm) (Map p136 ; 88 Janpath; ; 88 Janpath; p136 (Map

h Ansal Plaza Bahai of Worship House Humayun’s tomb Karol Bagh 60 Majnu-ka-Tilla 60 Old Delhi train station Paharganj18 50 40 Qila Purana Red Fort 40 South Extension 25 25 50 40 Destination Cost (Rs) Cost Destination 24hr) AUTORICKSHAW RATES RATES AUTORICKSHAW distances, the fol- vis-à-vis To gauge fares one-waylowing list shows rates (official) departing autorick- from Janpath’s prepaid around double. charge Taxis shaw booth. To avoid shenanigans, catch an autorick- catch shenanigans, To avoid

Sat, to 2pm Sun) Outside the India Tourism office. Delhi h Place; the saint Nizam-ud-din: when the Tughlaq legendary quarrel between Ghiyas-ud-din and quarrel legendary foreigner Rs 5/US$2, video Rs 25; foreigner Delhi. The walled city and the third city of was built by Ghiyas- fort with its 13 gateways a ud-din Tughlaq. Its construction involved TUGHLAQABAD TUGHLAQABAD Crumbling to neighbouring Haryana, see p277 . p277 see Haryana, to neighbouring For details about possible day trips from Delhi For details GREATER DELHI GREATER DELHI was no prepaid writing there At the time of taxi stand in Connaught Place, but the New Delhi train station (car park) has a 24-hour taxis. meter-operated offering counter Palika Bazaar’s Gate No 2 New Delhi train station car park Janpath that drivers will simply refuse to use refuse will simply them that drivers Insist on using the (so they can overcharge). setting off. If before on a fare or agree meter, look for one who will. disagrees, the driver a 25% surcharge From 11pm to 5am, there’s for autorickshaws and taxis. booth: shaw from a prepaid lonelyplanet.com DELHI the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake discovered howtheiron,which hasnot rusted quite exceptional purity.Scientistshave never it wasmade,fortheironinpillarisof II, whoruledfromAD375to413. inmemoryof and wasraised Chandragupta outside aVishnu temple, possiblyinBihar, scription indicates thatitwasinitiallyerected mosque’s construction.Asix-lineSanskritin- of themosqueanditwashere longbefore the inthecourtyard pillarstands This 7m-high Iron Pillar Alai Darwazagateway in1300. added acourttotheeastandmagnificent 1210and1220.Ala-ud-dincourt between rounded theoriginalmosquewithacloistered Hindu orJain origins. in themosque’sconstructionindicate their ‘27 idolatroustemples’. Many of theelements with materialsfromdemolishing obtained tion over theeastgate thatitwasbuilt states dations of aHindutemple, andaninscrip- The originalmosquewasbuiltonthefoun- additions andextensions over thecenturies. the mosquein1193,butithashadvarious Mosque. Qutb-ud-dinbeganconstructionof ofmosque tobebuiltinIndia,theMight Islam At the foot of thefirst theQutbMinarstands Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid as itcanget crowded. October/November (see p123 ). to climbthetower. turies remarkably well.It’snolonger possible haswornthecen- tilt,butotherwise a slight removed someyears later. inappropriate andwas that domewasdeemed replaced itwithanotherin1829.However, crashing downin1803andanEnglishman 162 © LonelyPlanetPublications The QutbFestival takes placehere every What the inscription does nottell ishow What theinscriptiondoes Qutb-ud-din’sson-in-law,sur-Altamish, Avoid visitingQutbMinaronweekends, Today, thisimpressively ornate towerhas RAE EH • Qt ia GREATER DELHI••QutbMinar Altamish ruined western cornerof themosque. Thelargely Zamin west of theQutbMinar. The red justsouth- in1310andstands sandstone entrance tothewholecomplex.Itwasbuiltof Ala-ud-din’s Other Features Minar andthemosque. plete tothenorthof towerstands theQutb tinue hisoverambitious project. Theincom- reached 27mandno-onewaswillingtocon- Bythetimeofhigh! hisdeaththetowerhad the QutbMinar,exceptitwouldbetwiceas towerofbuild asecond victory,exactlylike tious constructionprogramme. He aimed to mosque, healsoconceived afarmore ambi- When Ala-ud-dinmadehisadditionstothe Alai Minar pillar isnowprotected byafence. arms yourwish willbegranted; the however, back tothepillarandencircleitwithyour technology of thetime. after some 2000 years, couldbecastusingthe time (Rs25perextrahour). around Rs140,including30minutes’ waiting of orfromJanpath. NewDelhitrainstation bus505(Rs15)fromtheAjmeriCatch Gate side Getting There&Away Uprising. lowing hisimplicationinthe1857Indian Yangon, Burma (Myanmar),in1862,fol- the lastkingof Delhi,whodied inexile twoofbetween thetombswasintended for Anemptyspace theMughals. who succeeded and alsothe of thecomplex. From Janpath, areturn autorickshawcosts It is said that if you can stand withyour thatifyoucanstand It issaid There are some isbesidethegateway, whilethe madrasa ofAla-ud-din , whodiedin1235,isbythenorth- tombs Alai Darwaza of thelastkingsof Delhi, summer palaces gateway isthemain stands attherear stands lonelyplanet.com tomb of Imam inthearea tomb of

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