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#164 26 September -2 October 2003 16 pages Rs 25 Shah also worried about the psycho- logical impact on children of having to watch animal decapitation. “Children are As our rulers hibernate for Dasai, it looks either traumatised, or they enjoy it. Politicallike the political limbo willlimbo linger. Neither is good for them,” he told us. Despite pressure from peace groups for a Steeped in rituals, Nir Shah’s family is Dasai-Tihar ceasefire and Maoist hints required to carry out a sacrifice at Dasai. that they may consider it, the army Instead of a goat, this year he will bring doesn’t seem to be in the mood. Giving up meat has health benefits, and may A vegetarian Dasai home a gourd. Government spokesman Kamal Thapa’s

SRADDHA○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ BASNYAT even make us less violent. “we will agree to a ceasefire if the Maoists Organisations like the Society for the disarm,” was a flat no. However, many s khukuris are sharpened in Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Nepal expect an informal reduction in violence anticipation of Dasai, goats, (SPCAN) are also worried about the over Dasai. “There may be internal buffaloes, chickens and ducks are cruelty to animals in the name of instructions to lessen activities,” a source not looking forward to Nepal’s great religion—especially big sacrificial rituals close to the Maoists told us, “But a joint annual massacre. like Dasai and Gadimai Mela in Bara ceasefire declaration is unlikely.” AThis year, as the country plunges into district every five years. “Violence is However, the tacit ceasefire between a spiral of unprecedented violence, there learned, it could start by beating a dog, the king and political leaders seems to be are concerns about animal sacrifices. or witnessing a sacrifice,” says SPCAN’s fraying as the parties get impatient with Some are even thinking this is the time to Lucia de Vries. the palace’s silence. After unprecedented turn vegetarian. The only thing holding public pressure by Kathmandu-based The rationale for Dasai sacrifice is embassies to mend fences, the parties them back is habit and the belief that the cult of Durga, the goddess who have toned down their rhetoric. The feasting on flesh is a part of our culture. vanquished demons and saved humanity. government has rejected the Researchers have long linked eating nutritious lingers and countries with rising Nepalis will turn to ritual sacrifices at Priest Shivahari Rimal says sacrifices reinstatement of parliament, and is trying meat, especially red meat, to heart living standards always show an exponential home at Dasai, one of the few times in a today have lost their religio-cultural to woo moderates from the parties to form disease, cancer, diabetes, arthritis and increase in meat consumption. year they get to eat meat. facets: “These days people justify the an all-party interim government. osteoporosis. A vegetarian diet, on the At 81, Hem Bahadur Basnyat is proof But there are genuine health benefits sacrifices just to fill their bellies.” t “Everyone is waiting for the others to make other hand, is low in fat and high in fibre that a vegetarian diet works. After giving to giving up meat. Vegetarians usually the first move,” the UML’s Madhab Kumar and combined with a healthy lifestyle it’s up meat 35 years ago, the retired army have more energy, need less sleep and We wish all readers happy Dasai Nepal told us. The Nepali Congress known to reverse arteriosclerosis and colonel starts his day with an hour-and- lose weight. The remarkable part of leader Ram Sharan Mahat says the holidays. Nepali Times will skip one even prevent cancer. “It’s a good idea to half walk at 5AM. giving up meat is that it seems to make issue next week, the next edition of bottom line is to bring the constitution cut down on meat after 35,” says Dr Many Nepalis cannot afford to eat people less aggressive. Renowned Nepali back on track. He says: “Our 18-point this paper will appear on program is actually the middle path Sundar Mani Dixit, who prescribes fruits, meat that often. But the urban middle film director, Nir Shah, was a voracious Friday 10 October. between the Maoists and the govern- vegetables, legumes and nuts for the class is consuming more animal products meat eater till three years ago. After ment.” amino acids required by the body to and finds it difficult to give up meat for turning vegetarian initially to lose weight, build protein. purely health reasons. Until Nepal has he found other side benefits. “I am less Still, the notion that meat is more modern meat processing plants, most angry now, and feel reduced tension.”

Nepal figures 11th on a list of countries in danger Terrorismof terrorist violence compiled Index by risk analysts, World Markets Research Centre. At greater risk than Nepal are the United States, Britain and India. North Korea is the safest place on earth. MIN BAJRACHARYA

Weekly Internet Poll # 104 ENJOY

Q. How do you rate the chances of an all-party The Sumptuous Barbecue Dinner government being formed? at our illuminated Courtyard and Garden For Vegetarians Special Sish Kebabs and many more. For Reservation: 552 1810

Total votes:1,377 Weekly Internet Poll # 105. To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com Q. Now that the ceasefire is off, do you think the political parties and the king should unite? 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 2 EDITORIAL NEPALI TIMES #164 Nepali Times is published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd, Chief Editor: Kunda Dixit STATE OF THE STATE by CK LAL Desk Editor: Trishna Gurung, Design: Kiran Maharjan Webmaster: Bhushan Shilpakar [email protected], www.nepalitimes.com Advertising: Sunaina Shah [email protected] Subscription: Anil Karki [email protected] Sales: Sudan Bista [email protected] Sanchaya Kosh Building, Block A-4th Floor, Lalitpur GPO Box 7251, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: 01-5543333/ 5523845 Fax: 01-5521013

Printed at Jagadamba Press, Hattiban: 01-5547018/17 ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ Warmongers○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ will win if we, out of fear, stop living. Wartimeasai comes every year, but every Dasai but not to celebrate our festivals would Marcos, Thailand is still trying to find a HUMAN SACRIFICE year it is different. When there has be to capitulate to the wishes of the balance between the military, the he most important Nepali festival is two weeks away but the been a death in the family, the warmongers. They win if peace-loving monarchy and the masses. country is not in a mood for festivities. living grieve for the departed. A marriage citizens stop living out of sheer fear. The We in Nepal had 13 governments in This is the time of year when people go back to their ancestral Dor birth the preceding year multiplies the spirit of Dasai must live, it can’t be 12 years, but even an armed insurgency villages for clan reunions. But this year the few people still left in the joy as a new family member is welcomed. villages are leaving. They are fleeing fear, dread and terror, leaving snatched away from Nepalis who have and an earth-shattering massacre of our Like any other festival in any society, had little to celebrate in the past year of royals didn’t rob elected governments of ripeningT rice on the terraces and their livestock, and abandoning the Dasai is redolent with joy for some, monsoon-green hills of their homes. They are leaving because there is broken promises. political legitimacy. The institutions of tinged with sadness for others. Like the call to call off Dasai, the democracy, however shaky, withstood the nothing left to hand over to extortionists. The teachers, shopkeepers, It is also a time for the larger clan to farmers, social workers and nurses who they saw and greeted every political parties' rhetoric of regression is knocks. Instead of making fun of our first day have been decapitated like Dasai goats in front of their eyes. Then get together, to visit ancestral farms and beginning to sound equally hollow. It’s true 12 years, we should take stock of the there are the untold numbers who have been killed in encounters that re-establish ties to ones roots. But this that King Gyanendra has been in direct achievements since 1990 and figure out a we don’t even hear about. All predictions that the breakdown of the year, chances are that the ancestral home command of the country for one year now. way of getting democracy back on track by ceasefire would take the violence and brutality to a new scale have has been destroyed by the Maobadi, or But the state hasn’t, at least not yet, correcting the mistakes that led to the lack sadly been proven right. security forces may be camping in it. regressed to a pre-1990 state. The very fact of accountability and bad governance. It isn’t hard to see that the Maoists’ shock and awe campaign is Extended family members may have fled that Messers Sitaula, Nemwang, Sherchan, The trouble with our democracy was that going to backfire badly. It is going to isolate them further from the to the relative safety of the district towns Bijukchhe, and Tripathi are free to deride there wasn’t enough of it. people and is going to distance them even more from a political or the capital, or migrated to work. resolution. Since neither side can win this war, what is the point of all the royal move from public pulpits is proof Some sections of the intelligentsia also The middle-class observes this Nepali that the constitution isn’t yet dead. The take vicarious pleasure in blaming the this blood-letting? To improve their bargaining position in the next festival in the way it does most other round of negotiations? And how precisely is the slaughter of innocents regime that we have is far from democratic, leaders of the political parties for spreading things—ritualistically, doing the same but it’s not completely authoritarian either. the politics of violence. Maobadis didn’t going to do that? thing in the same way year after year. We No credo in history which has sought to terrorise the populace into Rather than regression, what we have is a rebel against a repressive system of submission has sustained its support for long. This addiction to don’t celebrate festivals, we political manoeuvre similar to Pakistan’s government, they took to the gun to murder, the temptation to eliminate anyone who doesn’t agree with commemorate them with religious Musharrafship, a semi-dictatorship. overthrow a democratically elected leadership. one’s dogma, has been justified by revolutionaries throughout history fervour. Animal sacrifice during Dasai is It has also become customary in Some political leaders since 1990 have indeed in any number of ways. Besides being cannibalistic, even as a military mostly a middle-class affair. Most of us Kathmandu high society to blame “the last been corrupt, and reacted with iron fists strategy it is potentially disastrous. Not just for undercutting one’s own realise that this gory custom has little twelve years” for the present mess the against the nascent insurgency, but the law is public support base but also because revolutions always reap the relevance but no one is willing to be the first kingdom finds itself in. Fair enough, but finally catching up on them. Which one of us whirlwind. to discontinue the ritual. It’s not easy to stop tell me, which democracy in human history in the chattering classes is clean enough to As we saw during China’s Cultural Revolution or the New Peoples’ the cruel practice when goats are Army purges in the Philippines, when violence becomes an end in has become fully-functional and robust in cast the first stone? In any case, better a slaughtered at numerous spiritual power its first 12 years? corrupt you can curse than a mass-murderer itself, the same brutality is ultimately unleashed by hardliners to centres on behalf of the state. eliminate rivals, decimating the movement. However noble its original In fact, the first decade of a who makes society cower in fear. From his study of jatras in the democracy has always been its most In the midst of murder and mayhem this goals, violence corrodes the reason for revolution and brutalises the Kathmandu Valley, anthropologist very people it seeks to liberate. fragile period. Soon after its Dasai, instead of calling off the festival, let us If last week’s three-day bandh was ‘successful’, it was only Sudarshan Tiwari has concluded that establishment, the French Republic instead use the festivities to meditate on the successful in proving once more that the Nepali people are in culture is at its most vibrant at the bottom began the Reign of Terror and the universal message of non-violence and then rung of the social hierarchy. This hypothesis mourning for brothers and sisters killed since the ceasefire broke culture of the guillotine. Briefly after act on it. t down. They stayed home because they don’t agree with this violence. holds true for the rest of the kingdom too. gaining independence, Americans started They kept their shops closed and didn’t go to work because they are The poor celebrate Dasai in a way that has preparing for the Civil War. India fed up and want nothing else than for the Maoists and the military to made it a joyous festival—they revel in it figure out a way to end this unconscionable carnage. And on Sunday with wild abandon. Even though the they rang temple bells, tooted horns and blew whistles because they destitute have to tide it over by borrowing, wanted to stop this dance of death. Dasai is a time to forget their worries. Dasai is here. When dozens of Nepalis are being sacrificed every As violence engulfs the country, there day, there is no need to appease the gods with animal sacrifices. The have been calls from several budhhijibis that gods are horrified enough. Let’s celebrate it with flowers for peace and we shouldn’t celebrate Dasai this year when for our nation’s future. there is so much to grieve for in our collective loss. Be it the innocent murdered by the Maobadis or the alleged rebels killed by security forces, they are all Nepalis who died for a cause that has

been dead for decades: dictatorship of the proletariat. But despite our sorrows, life goes on became independent and democratic, but for the living. The world didn’t stop soon got embroiled in its 50-year-war over during the two World Wars, poetry was Kashmir, and lost one with China. In alive while the Holocaust was going on Pakistan, democracy fell into the hands of and people had time to sing harvest the military within a decade of its songs while the Khmer Rouge was busy formation. Bangladesh had a military killing one-sixth of Cambodia’s coup that consumed its Father of the population. The argument that we Nation. The Philippines tumbled into should call off Dasai is understandable, turmoil after the overthrow of Ferdinand 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 LETTERS NEPALI TIMES #164 3 LETTERS

sensationalism, and by filing a beheaded, children are being TIME cute story he endangered Nepal’s torn to shreds by bombs, teachers I find CK Lal’s criticism of us as INDIVIDUAL INTERVENTION CAN SAVE TOURISM scare-mongering, badly- fragile economy. Three pages of and journalists are being It was the same Time magazine that CK Lal has trashed (‘Time to informed journalists a little rich his one-sided story gives no hint slaughtered in front of their get the story straight’, #163) which devoted four premium pages (‘Getting the story straight’, of hope, and has done much families. The Maoists have now last year to Nepal and its tourist destinations. Shoba De wrote #163). Firstly, the quote he harm to Nepal and Nepalis. lost the little sympathy they had glowingly on Fulbari Resort and Baber Mahal Revisited in an issue homes in on: “it could all go up Abhaya Subba Weise, from ordinary people like us. of India Today Plus. Today Fulbari is deep in controversy and in flames” is, as you know, taken Kathmandu Meanwhile, what are our Koiralas, Baber Mahal’s Gautam Rana fears for his life. When there are from the column “Strictly Deubas, Chands and Thapas good news stories about Nepal—and there are plenty—we take Business” by Ashutosh Tiwari l CK Lal does not understand doing? They are just playing them as heaven-sent and remain silent and thankless. When there published in Nepali Times that he is giving all the people he musical chairs in Kathmandu. is bad publicity, we make a lot of hue and cry and beat our (#160). Secondly, the idea that pokes fun at in his columns a Although the Nepali people don’t breasts. he could write accurately about huge compliment. Who else could trust anyone anymore, they have But individual awareness and initiative can greatly help in my poor skills as a reporter he satirise? Not the man-on-the- not lost hope. They know that the these times of e-mail velocity to counter alarmist embassy when he, er, failed even to street, for that would be degrading superiority of one can be advisories, sensationalist news stories and wrong information contact the central figure in his cruelty. Writers can only poke fun overcome by the alliance of routed through the same medium. Please allow me to give my own thesis (me) or any of the people at prime ministers, famous many. modest example. I interviewed, displays an authors, great artists, famous Gaurav KC, Battisputali Joan Windsor Sarasin is a major convention tourism operator extraordinary hypocrisy and, as movie stars and those who can Hanuman Dhoka complex. But in Bangkok and well known in Kathmandu’s tourism circles. Re- any media professional should afford to live in Budhanilkantha. there has to be greater sensitivity l The proximity afforded establishing contact after 40-years though email, she felt sorry for know, is a fundamental All the victims of Mr Lal’s venom about the fees charged for through tourism is problematic having been forced to cancel her FAO convention at the Soaltee violation of the basic should understand that he is allowing tourists to gape at the because it directly brings together Crowne Plaza because her contacts in Kathmandu and Bangkok journalistic tenet known as actually doling out praise in his Kumari. If the caretakers feel that people of extreme socio- warned her of army “tanks” rumbling around in Kathmandu. So ‘checking’. Pots and black characteristically embittered they are entitled to even a small economic disparity. In no other Joan’s FAO conference would be held in Singapore or Hong Kong. kettles anyone? Finally, as for manner. It is the only way he can part of the money raised from the setting does this take place in This misinformation culture seems to tally well with CK Lal’s parachuting in, yes, I am based get the bile out of his system. exhibition of the Kumari, then quite the same way. In ‘Nepal is reference to the cancellation of the Asia-Pacific Human Rights in Delhi, but shall continue to S Singh, Kathmandu they are indeed involved in an safe’ (#163), Naresh Newar quotes Forum that was to be held this week in Kathmandu. keep a very close watch on abusive form of child labour. The a few tourists braving civil strife for I explained to Joan that her convention would be held in a developments at this tragic caretakers should take up the case a vacation. One says “Nepal is secure hotel and not in some war zone. Also that the Royal Nepali time for Nepal and ‘parachute Naresh Newar’s piece (‘Fee KUMARIfight of adequate compensation only safe for tourists. This is not our Army doesn’t have tanks, and what her lords-of-poverty parachutist in’ as often as I can. keeps tourists away from the with those who receive the civil war.” Another reveals, “I’m FAO friends saw were small armoured personnel carriers. The 500- Alex Perry Kumari’, #160) upset me. It is up blessings of the Kumari and more worried about the weather strong convention did indeed take place. As ordinary Nepalis, we South Asia bureau chief to the believers of any faith to definitely not depend on tourist than anything.” I too have been a did what we could. Sorry to blow my own trumpet, this is just to show Time Magazine maintain the institutions or fees. If we continue to accept tourist in the ‘third world’ and I too how individual initiatives can turn the tide in tourism or any other temples of that faith. There is no money from non-believers to see have been overly conscious of sector, and not just efforts by the Nepal Tourism Board. l CK Lal’s views were thought dharma in receiving the blessings the Kumari, then we have to and attentive to my own comfort Peter J Karthak, The Kathmandu Post provoking. The Time magazine of the Kumari if the believers do accept anything outsiders say and safety, but it is problematic article was a little tacky, if not a not put in the necessary money or about her. when, on an interpersonal level, Majesty emulate the 21st Century appears in numerous confused man’s remarks support for the institution of the I propose that the whole the struggles of those around you role model of kingship, King instances, and that seems to portrayed as every Nepali’s Kumari—including the physical Hanuman Dhoka complex be become less important than the Bhumibol of Thailand, and call be how BP understood his dilemma. Most Nepalis have infrastructure and generous declared a Kumari sanctuary and weather. It is problematic in any an all-party open roundtable and interrogator’s designation. more on their minds than compensation for the caretakers of its maintenance be independent social setting when the struggles resolve the issue as the Thai king worrying that the glitter from the Kumari, as well as very of tourist revenue. This is an of those around you are not your did in 1989? No more beating past glory is gone or that their reasonable support for the Kumari important religious, cultural and struggles. Thank you for around the bush, no more dilly- Your car special (#163)GREAT was CAR palaces will be bombed during herself. The few thousand rupees political institution that should continuing to provide a steady dallying. The people’s patience is indeed very informative for an event, causing more per month that she presently gets have nothing to do with source of top-notch English running out. prospective customers making embarrassment than from the government does no foreigners. All revenues raised language reporting. Name withheld on request individual choices. However, destruction. Fear for one’s honour to the richest people in from tourists who come here Ryan Redmond, Boston, USA the rating for one of our security is foremost in every the country. The little girl selected should be spent in a way that is in vehicles, the Hyundai BP’S DIARY Nepali’s mind, but we go about to be the Kumari shows us the God harmony with the true spirit of l After reading Rajendra The serialisation of BP’s Terracan, seems misleading. our business, leaving the fear that resides in all human beings. Kumari worship: like scholarships Dahal’s ‘All together now’ (#162), I Sundarijal diary in your paper Please do not take this as a at the back of our minds more We should be thankful to her for for the education of girls. was prompted to offer a solution. and its translation in Himal reactive response to the out of helplessness than the difficult job she performs and Kabindra Pradhan, Butwal Since most of our tried and tested Khabarpatrika often cites an ‘Ass. conclusions of your esteemed choice. Like everywhere else in recognise the fact that the living political stalwarts have had Anchaladhish’ coming to visit BP panel. The Terracan which was the world, we have become goddess herself is a human being skeletons discovered in their in his cell. I want to clarify that it test driven in Gokarna was the experts at that. What the heck, and must get the best education Thanks to Netra KC and RamesworHOPE closets, why not get rid of the lot wasn’t an ‘Assistant’ Anchaladhish base model and cannot be maybe all is not yet lost. Our available. She should not depend Bohara for their poignant and bring in the untainted junior but a co-zonal commissioner. In compared to the fully-loaded culture, tradition and modest on government handouts; all portrayal of the plight of Nepalis leadership of the parties? This fact, I was the Co-Anchaladhish version of other competitors. In ways may be our salvation. believers in the cult of the Kumari in midwestern Nepal who have could be called the ‘Kamraj Plan’ during the period of BP’s second fact, the Terracan CRDi, newly- Jyoti Singh, Kathmandu should share this responsibility: been forced out of their homes after Indira Gandhi’s political incarceration at Sundarijal and I launched in India, would have from the Newars of Kathmandu to just before Dasai because of the leapfrogging over veteran was a party to the episodes that been comparative. l Somebody needed to trash the king who ritually receive her renewed fighting (‘Civilians flee Congressites in the late 1960s. BP writes about. I have my own Dhiren Tamang, Alex Perry, and who else but blessings in order to rule for fighting in the midwest’ and ‘We Everyone agrees that King comments on the contents of the Avco International our very own CK Lal. Nobody another year. have lost all hope’, #163). Once Gyanendra and the leaders of the diary which I will make known at an could have done it better. The argument that the more the Nepali people have parliamentary parties have to opportune time. When I read ‘Living on the municipality uses the money been deceived. They were Bishnu Pratap Shah patch up and the ambassadors Due to a data processing error,CORRECTION some of Edge’ in Time, I didn’t quite get raised from tourists to pave the assaulted, terrorised and are prodding them to do just that. Siddarth Colony, the PM10 concentrations for 9-16 the Edgar Allan Poe feel. streets of the city is quite obscene. victimised for seven years. Then But what is holding them back is Budhanilkantha September in the air quality report (#162) People are trying to get on with Residents of Kathmandu pay the two sides with guns pretended indecision on which of these got mixed up. The correct values should their lives and if Club Platinum taxes for road maintenance and it they were for peace, giving us all senile leaders gets to be prime Editor: We have taken care to have been: is opening or if Miss Nepal went is shameful that the country’s false hopes. They told us minister. The only way to break transcribe BP Koirala’s diary Putalisadak 128 on as planned—I didn’t see the richest city has to depend on repeatedly they were not going the impasse is to forge a keeping as much as possible to Matsyagaon 26 need for Perry to have such a contributions of foreigners for this back to the jungle, but it was just rapprochement between the the original. The microfilm of the TU 32 holier-than-thou attitude about purpose. There is no doubt that a ruse to prepare for war. They are royalist camp and the democracy diary makes it impossible to Bhaktapur 46 it. This is an irresponsible money will continue to be raised back to terrorising the people. decipher the words in some Patan Hospital 140 camp and let the Young Turks Thamel 70 scribe who looked for from tourists who come to the Ordinary citizens are being have a go. Why doesn’t His places. But ‘Ass. Anchaladhish’ 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 4 NATION NEPALI TIMES #164 Sagarmatha’s buffer zone Villagers living outside Sagarmatha National Park get together to stop logging that has destroyed their forests. conservation agency said it had resident. asked the Royal Nepali Army to But not all the forestry user help bring the APF in line and get group members are honest. Some of the police to stop cutting trees. its executive members have been “They stopped for a while, but it known to misuse their authority to has started again,” one official told sell trees. They say they are selling us. the timber to repair trails and Forests around Tengboche Monastery are regenerating. Many of the logs are bridges, but more often than not, transported into the park to build the money ends up building private NAVIN SINGH KHADKA the growth of tourism has boosted has increased consumption of of kerosene because it is deployed new lodges and monasteries. The tea houses and lodges that are

in the KHUMBU ○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○ demand for timber. But the ban on firewood. But trees are being cut for in a buffer zone where timber logging mafia is well-oiled: in springing up on the Khumbu trail— agarmatha National Park is a logging inside the park has meant construction timber. logging is prohibited. Ironically, the Chaurikharka, timber from Pharak many of them funded entirely by conservation success story, that the forests outside the park The result is that while thick national park is guarded by the and Phakding are mixed in with the illegal timber trade. and a model for eco-tourism. boundary have fallen under the axe. forests of pine drape the steep Royal Nepali Army, while the timber from lower Khumbu and Those in charge of protecting The stately lichen-covered spruce The rest of Khumbu’s forests have slopes of the Imja Khola and Bhote Armed Police Force is in Lukla only Phaplu and taken into the park. Sagarmatha’s environment are now and hemlock around Tengboche become the victims of the park’s Kosi valleys inside the Park, the because it has to guard the airport. A few people have been caught finding themselves in the SMonastery that had all but success. rhododendron and oak forests near The Sagarmatha National Park and penalised, but a Rs 300 fine unappreciated minority. “We try to disappeared 25 years ago, are The rhododendron logs piled Lukla have all but gone. The locals, office at Namche raised this matter doesn’t deter the criminals. “The protest, but the perpetrators have sprouting back. Juniper bushes near high at the office of the Armed who are not allowed to cut trees, with the Armed Police commander fines don’t cut into their profits, so connections to powerful people,” Pheriche show regeneration even Police Force at Lukla airport are are incensed that the police are last year, but the APF flatly denied of course these people return to cut says a frustrated Sherpa tourism though plant growth is extremely pink and smooth to touch. They openly chopping them down and it was poaching timber. The last more trees,” said Kami Dorji entrepreneur. “They don’t slow at these altitudes. look as if they were felled recently. carting them away. One warden who warned the police to Sherpa, chairman of the forest user cooperate, and instead try to make Journalists covering the 50th “The police cut our trees in our conservation officer told us: stop the logging was forced by the group in Chaurikharka. us the villains.” anniversary of the first Everest forests and we get blamed,” “Villagers have approached us armed police to stand all night in The number of trekkers and The locals still remember how climb last spring, who were whispers a local lodge owner. saying that they should also be the freezing cold at the helipad in mountaineers in the park has their elected representative in the prepared to do the mandatory Local villagers say the security allowed to cut down the trees if Lukla as punishment. climbed sharply from 4,000 in 1982 dissolved parliament, Bal Bahadur “trash on the Everest trek” stories, forces are in cahoots with outsiders enjoy that privilege.” Since then, relations between to its peak of 26,000 in 2000. KC, freed timber smugglers from were pleasantly surprised to find the “powerful and influential people” The Armed Police Force the park and the police have Although the levels have dropped police custody two years ago. trails relatively litter-free. to smuggle timber up to Namche headquarters in Kathmandu chose become further strained. The new slightly since then, a mountaineer “Those smugglers were caught red- But the Sagarmatha’s success Bazar. Park officials are aware that not to make any comment. park warden Gopal Bhattarai issued still uses eight times more firewood handed but they had the MP’s has come at a price. The growing the deployment of additional The Lukla unit of the APF is a notice against cutting trees in the than an average trekker and 20 blessings, and they are still involved affluence of the Sherpa villages, and security forces to guard the airport supposed to get a generous supply buffer zone. An international times more than a local Khumbu in illegal logging. Everyone knows

HERE AND THERE by DANIEL LAK

Cities of hopeNepalis have national unity on one issue: Kathmandu has too much power and money.

ime and again, as I travel around this land, one overwhelming and the sheer trauma of post-war life in the countryside. But I have little one between two or three, much as Chandigarh is shared by Punjab and complaint recurs. Kathmandu has too much power and money. Even doubt that they’ll recover and start to make a different in this country. As Haryana states in India. The point is that Kathmandu is such a large and as hill districts empty of their productive labour force, bound for the we saw during the peace, Kathmandu failed to deliver any development or lone entity in Nepal that no amount of constitutional or administrative capital, people tell you that everything bad comes from Kathmandu. Bahun progress to remote or distant areas outside the Valley. Why? Because the change will diminish its defacto authority. Other cities, with vibrant local men listening to the radio news in the remote west, Tharu women netting government’s command structure is too centralised and unresponsive to and regional economies, can do that. fishT in a flooded paddy field in the tarai, a Dalit activist in Dhading, Rai and local needs, which, in any event, are well down the priority list of problems I humbly propose a sweeping plan to build 10 new cities all across Limbu families in the east and mountain people everywhere—all have drawn up at the Palace and in Singha Durbar. Nepal. Each with the capacity to hold a million people. Each with parks, achieved national unity on one issue. Too much Kathmandu in their lives. But perhaps it’s time to do more radical thinking on decentralisation. schools, hospitals, a university campus, regional parliaments, if you like, and For years, a powerful and compelling development mantra here has Really radical thinking. Dr Harka Gurung and others have postulated a so on. Housing stock is a top priority so people can live and work in been ‘decentralisation’. The empowering of the District and Village “canton” system of government for Nepal, along the lines of Switzerland. comfort. And, of course, local markets and industry need electricity and Development Committees in the 90s may have been the great success story (See Nepali Times, ‘The centre cannot hold’ by Harka Gurung, #88) Each other services. This would be a capital and labour intensive project on a of Nepali democracy, although it seldom gets celebrated by morose foreign of the Swiss ‘cantons’ are practically independent countries. They bow to grand scale that could pump immense new life into war-torn regions. aid officials these days. DDCs and VDCs, until they were crudely the national capital on questions of defence and national finance and that’s Hundreds of thousands of laborers would be needed, skilled architects, terminated by the Deuba government in July 2002, were the country’s great about it. The plan here to shrink the number of districts to 25 or so and engineers, tradespeople and so on. It would be a New Deal that will pull hope. Some of them were doing sterling work, and hey, guess what, they give them greatly enhanced authority is a good one and needs to be dusted Nepal out of its great depression. were political, they were occasionally corrupt, but they worked. Local off and debated (see map). This country would be transformed. Kathmandu court intrigue would people saw democracy in action on their doorsteps. What strikes me though is that political authority alone won’t be never again hold the hills and the tarai to ransom, and the burden on a Eventually, depending on the outcome of the current crisis and what’s enough to revitalise the districts of Nepal, even with a gusher of bursting capital would be eased. Nepal would come into its own, thronging done to restore democracy in this country, DDCs and VDCs will spring up development money flowing through. No, whatever form of local set up is with tourists and prosperous local people who’ve made it in their own area, again. They’ll be greatly hamstrung by Maoist destruction of their property eventually agreed upon, it is going to need is a city. One each, or at least on their own, and are proud of it. I have seen the future, and it’s urban. t 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 NATION NEPALI TIMES #164 5

DOMESTIC BRIEFS

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ TheCourt Royal NepaliMartial Army has court martialled four InPoverty line with the Unitedfund Nations’ Millennium junior soldiers on charges of attempted extortion in Development Goals, the government has formed Banke last year. a Poverty Alleviation Fund. Officials say it will be Promotions and grades have been suspended an autonomous body to work in poverty-stricken of two similar low ranking personnel who kept quiet areas through non-government organisations and about the incident while a major has been forced to grassroots groups. “Our target groups are women resign because he did not investigate the matter and Dalits and the fund will help them get access thoroughly. Brigadier BA Sharma told us one to health and other primary services,” the fund’s sergeant, two lance corporals and a rifleman executive director Shankar Raj Joshi told us. The ganged up with civilians, carried civilian rifles and fund will use bilateral, multilateral and extorted villagers. When one of the villagers refused government funds. “In this regard, we are already to give the money they had demanded, he was holding talks with the World Bank.” The World kidnapped for a few hours. When rumours spread Bank is considering a $70 million Poverty that they were soldiers, a major stationed in the Reduction Strategy Credit which could be same district was assigned to investigate. His report approved later this year. The government has said no army personnel was involved. appointed NPC’s former vice chairman Mohan “But, we were not convinced. After further Man Sainju as chairman. investigation we found they had tried to hush up the The government has also announced mobile matter,” Sharma said. Among the culprits, the teams to provide basic services in areas ranging rifleman has been imprisoned for three years while from health to agriculture to the people in the other three will be behind bars for two years. The remote areas, but fears most teams will not be civilians have been handed over to Banke police able to reach remote areas for security reasons. since the amended Military Act does not allow the NGOs working with the poverty fund are likely to army to prosecute civilians. be more successful in delivering grassroots depleted army presence. development. The army takes up almost 80

percent of the national park office’s ○○○○○○○○○ budget, and that would have been ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

TheCold parties shoulder and Prime Minister Surya Bahadur ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ money well spent if the military was Thapa’s cabinet team are not just fighting over the ExecutiveESCAP Secretary chief of the in United Nepal Nations actually enforcing conservation matter of forming an all-party government. The two Economic and Social Commission for Asia and laws. “At the moment they aren’t have not been able to agree even on the issue of the Pacific (ESCAP), Kim Hak-su is visiting Nepal doing much. They are worried local bodies. Earlier this week, Information Minister next week. He will meet Prime Minister Surya about their own security,” says Kamal Thapa admitted that the government, under Bahadur Thapa, the Vice-Chairman of the Bhattarai. donor pressure, had decided to form all party National Planning Commission and other senior Another issue that complicates committees to govern local bodies that have officials. Korean Kim Hak-su took over in ESCAP matters is that the responsibility for remained without elected officials for a year-and- two years ago and has served as Korea’s conservation of the buffer zone has half. But this week, the parties declared they are not ambassador for international economic affairs. not been handed to the park’s onboard. The five-party alliance said it would neither join the central government nor local jurisdiction. Dawa Sherpa, bodies. “As long as this unconstitutional chairman of the buffer zone ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ government is there, there is no question of joining TheColumbia Nepal-based alumnialumni of Columbia meet University council, told us the official process any of its offices,” Nepal Workers and Peasants’ is slowly moving towards a hand- in New York have opened a Nepal Chapter with TougherAlarmed by the denudation buffer in Lukla, Pharak and Phakding (above), Party’s Narayan Man Bijukchhe told us. The UML former ambassador Dr Singha Bahadur Basnyat the government declared the area the Sagarmatha National Park over. But it is so slow that by the has warned its cadre not to join any local bodies. as president and the newly-appointed attorney Buffer Zone in 2002 and with help from the Worldwide Fund for time it is transferred, the trees may Most donors have frozen assistance to local bodies general, Sushil Pant, as vice president. Other Nature (WWF) will be continuing its 8-year-old community agro- all be gone. after the Deuba government refused to extend the functionaries include Prabhakar Adhikari, Gandhi forestry program here. Up to half of the revenue generated by the The Department of Forestry terms of elected representatives. They insist that the Pandit, Arun Rana, Jogendra Ghimire, Praimal park from trekker fees will now be ploughed into conservation has washed its hands off the buffer government must include all the parties in Jha and Purna Man Shakya. Columbia University activities in the buffer zone. So far, the project has set up five zone, while the park hasn’t taken committees to run the local bodies, even the is celebrating its 250th anniversary this month. community forest user groups, established nurseries and replanted over. This bureaucratic limbo Maoists in their strongholds. entire mountainsides with seedlings. The project is also looking at combined with apathy and greed alternative energy sources like solar and micro-hydro along the has lead to wholesale logging. Lukla trail to reduce dependence on firewood. Looking up from the Lukla to VACANCY ANNOUNCEMENT Phakding trail, the slopes are RESEARCH CO-ORDINATOR AND ADMINISTRATOR littered with the carcasses of white who they are,” a local fortified base on a hill overlooking conservationist told us. Namche. Before the state of logs stripped of their barks. The International Alert, an independent, international non-governmental organisation based in The Sherpas of the Khumbu emergency, there were five posts at sound of axe on timber can be London, seeks to fill two positions, Research Co-ordinator and Administrator, for a resource centre have cultural and religious different points in the park. There heard right across the valley, and being established in Kathmandu. The Research Co-ordinator would lead local research and analysis, attachment to the protection of are now only three. For chief occasionally a warning shout as strategic thinking and communication to the public on comparative peace processes, and the the natural environment. Nature warden Gopal Bhattarai, things are another tree falls in the thinning Administrator would manage the centre, staff and resources. Detailed job descriptions and person here is regarded as the outer difficult enough without the forest. t specifications for both positions can be downloaded from our website at www.international-alert.org manifestation of the human soul. together with more information about International Alert. Rimpoche Nawang Lama of Research Co-ordinator: Tengboche monastery, a · Minimum 7 years programme management experience, and research, analysis and practical passionate environmentalist, is knowledge at a senior level in the fields of political science, international relations, development, credited with restoring the forests and/or conflict transformation. on the spur where his shrine is · Post-graduate degree, or higher, in related fields. situated. The abbot has also been · Excellent analytical, strategic thinking and problem-solving skills. active in the successful anti-litter · Fluency in English and Nepali, both written (to a publishable standard) and verbal, with excellent campaign. communication skills. “Buddhists believe that the · Commitment to the peaceful transformation of conflict in Nepal, and the aims and values of the deities and spirits dwell in the work and related activities. trees, and the trees influence the Administrator: weather, the harvests and the · Minimum 5 years experience in office management, with additional knowledge of resource, wellbeing of human financial and personnel management. communities,” says the · Bachelor’s degree or equivalent, and knowledge of political science, international relations, Rimpoche. development and/or conflict transformation. But some unscrupulous locals · Excellent interpersonal, communication and problem-solving skills. reportedly misuse the Lama’s · Fluency in English and Nepali. name to bypass laws on logging. A · Commitment to the peaceful transformation of conflict in Nepal, and the aims and values of the local politician flew out a large work and related activities. consignment of logs in a International Alert is committed to the just and peaceful transformation of violent conflict and believes helicopter earlier this year, that efforts to resolve violent conflict require inclusiveness, principled impartiality, adherence to without a permit, despite a ban ethical codes of conduct, high levels of accountability to partners, donors and parties to conflict, and from the warden’s office. He respect for international humanitarian law and human rights traditions. reportedly told park officials the timber was cut on instructions The positions are based in Kathmandu, Nepal, and contracts are for one year initially, with possible from the monastery. “These extension. Salary and benefits will be commensurate with qualifications and experience. International events have happened in the Alert strives to be an equal opportunities employer and welcomes applications regardless of gender, past,” admits Namche lodge caste, disability or sexual orientation. owner, Jangbu Sherpa. “Many Interested Nepali candidates should send a CV with cover letter and three references by e-mail to people misuse the Lama’s name [email protected] or by post to P.O. Box 11158 Kathmandu, Nepal. Please refer to the but I doubt he knows about it.” job position being applied for in the subject heading of e-mails. Replies should indicate the earliest After the Maoist rebels date at which the applicant would be able to commence work. Due to limited resources, only short- attacked their barrack at Salleri listed candidates will be contacted for interviews. Short-listed candidates for the position of Research in lower Khumbu two years ago, Co-ordinator will also be asked for two recent writing samples. Completed applications should the Royal Nepali Army has arrive by e-mail or post no later than 6th October 2003. Interviews will take place 9th October 2003. confined itself to its heavily 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 6 NATION NEPALI TIMES #164 OPINION by PASHUPATI SJB RANA

with a new age of democracy and good A democratic antidotegovernance. We must convince the people that to violence we leaders are now ready to function strictly as ‘For the first time, we have indications that the

per democratic norms. constitutional○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ forces are finally coalescing.’ We have to be more inclusive than we have been before and bring the Mahdesi, Janajati, our national identity more robust by kick- to be united in the first challenge: to win over Dalit and our women into the mainstream of starting the economy for long-term growth. Is the demoralised and terrorised people of this political decision-making. We have to give such economic growth possible without a free land. The people are alarmed by this new threat them proportionate representation in the civil market and foreign investment? Those who of urban warfare and the parties have to deal service and the legislatures. We have to answer ‘yes’ may want to look at Mao’s own with it together. convince the downtrodden in the tarai that we homeland today. Ever since they chose the path of violence, are now committed to giving them a voice. And The fuel for this growth must come from the Maoists have adopted the policy of dividing not just lip service. We must actually convince the development of our hydropower, from and weakening the constitutional forces. No one the Rolpa or Kham Magar youth that there is a tourism and from a 20-year strategy to promote has any doubt anymore that the Maoists are place for them in the political mainstream. The cash crops suited for our conditions. Peace is solely responsible for the present crisis. The Tharu youngsters from Bardia and Kailali the precursor and we need the conflict to end so parliamentary parties are now aware that the should be encouraged to share in this dream we can set up labour-intensive industries in the Maoists are the most aggressive against the of democracy. tarai that can manufacture goods for the north party in power and softest on those out of We don’t want democracy just for the sake Indian market. As a new member of the WTO, power. The five parliamentary parties have now of democracy, the marginalised farmers of the we now have the opportunity to use our also realised that they are playing into the of Bajura and Baitadi must be convinced that it comparative advantage to take a giant leap into hands of the Maoists with their agitation. For will bring them development. We must global trade. We must seize the opportunity of the first time, we have indications that the his time when the ceasefire broke down But I want to ask: are we ready, for the sake transform the governing process through local the new railway link that is soon going to join constitutional forces are finally coalescing. I and the fighting began anew, the nature of peace, to give up our freedom of expression self-governance in order to address existing Lhasa to the rest of the China. We cannot personally have been working towards this of the war changed. Instead of trying to and our freedom of the press? Will the private regional, ethnic and other disparities and afford to miss the bus again and be waylaid precise goal ever since our Third Convention. over-run garrisons and district headquarters, owners of media be willing to give up their ensure balanced development. by failed economic models that have outlived Sometimes, it seems, time and luck are more the Maoists are targeting the capital and urban independence? Will the burgeoning new The symbol of Nepal’s national unity is their time. important than logic in attaining one’s goal. areas.T middle class be willing to trade its multi-party the constitutional monarchy. We must take this The RPP believes that all these changes and The RPP is committed to the establishment Earlier, when the rest of Nepal was choice or their hard-won freedoms for peace? message to the grassroots. We are in danger of reforms are possible only through a of an all-party government. Once this happens, bleeding the residents of the Valley hadn’t felt One thing is clear: Nepalis have forever bid falling into the cracks between the economic constitutional monarchy and parliamentary sooner or later, the rebels will be forced to come that their security was particularly threatened. goodbye to dictatorship and it can never sneak progress of our two giant neighbours. India’s democracy. And our party has the capacity and back to the negotiating table. And it will be a Not any more. For the first time, Kathmandu’s in again in the garb of a one-party system. economic growth rate this year may exceed six experience to see these projects through. We see united front of constitutional forces that will elite is spooked and there is a siege mentality. The people have been through a bitter percent, and China has, for the past 20 years, this as the long-term guarantee for peace and show the way forward through a new and This has brought renewed clamour for an end experience in the past 12 years, with been growing at eight percent a year. If we lag development in Nepal. effective democratic model. t to the violence and a return to the peace corruption, partisan politicisation and political behind, it will be difficult for us to survive as a Only a peace process that has the full process. This yearning for peace is natural and leaders who had no qualms about using the yam between these two huge boulders. support and participation of the people will Pashupati SJB Rana is the President of the there is really no other alternative to this crisis administration to put down dissent. We must For economic growth, a sustained peace is a survive. The RPP cannot do this alone, nor Rastriya Prajatantra Party. This piece was but a negotiated solution. turn over a new leaf and present the people pre-requisite but not enough. We need to make does it want to. All parliamentary parties need translated from his Nepali original.

OPINION by RAGHU PANT

character. All Nepalis who are for The age of traditional democratisation, protection of political communist one-party rule and rule rights and who believe in When through personality cults is over. parliamentary democracy must stand Any political force that doesn’t up to the militaristic tendencies of analyse and understand power both the state and the Maoists. The through the lens of democratic political parties must be the bulwark pluralism and a multiparty system against regression and they must start violence will be irrelevant in modern society. by responding to the public’s need The Maoist rhetoric is of the “21st for an assurance that they will not century” but their behaviour is repeat the mistakes of the past The biggest losers from the wanton slaughter medieval. This has isolated the 12 years. that the Maoists have unleashed on the Maoists not just from the people but Only if there is a change in the becomes an from all other political forces. It has political ideology of the Maoists will country will be the Maoists themselves. he return of the Communist people just because they happen to be comrades in a tearing hurry, and place through violent revolution, and resulted in the militarisation of the there be a change in their methods. Party of Nepal (Maoist) to a Maoists. The biggest losers from the does not reflect the needs of the not through peaceful political state and an erosion of the rule of And the only way that can happen is campaign of assassinations wanton slaughter that the Maoists country and the people. Time is evolution. law. Thanks to this, the experience if they abandon their militaristic path, after theend breakdown of the ceasefire inhave unleasheditself on the country today running out for the Maoists to accept But this is a faulty interpretation of countries where the rise of left return to the political fold by has cast serious doubt on their will be the Maoists themselves. If this truth. of Mao Zedong’s thought. And as long extremism resulted in the upsurge restoring the ceasefire and work politicalT nature. It may be common they want a negotiated solution, they Violence and conflict is not the as the leadership and the cadre base of of rightwing reactionaries has now towards a resolution of the crisis with during uncommon times for those must understand a revolution is Nepali way. True, there is poverty, the Maoists are guided by militaristic been repeated in Nepal. a constructive agenda. who carry the gun to kill each other about social transformation, not an discrimination, exploitation and principles they will never show a The Nepali people, who had The alternative path is one of but indiscriminate killing of excuse for violence. When violence exclusion in Nepal. There always has serious commitment to compromise won sovereignty and were exercising political suicide that will endanger the unarmed citizens is not acceptable becomes an end in itself, it been and these evils persist. But even and a peaceful resolution of the their freedoms to chart out their own country’s existence. If they continue behaviour in any civilised society. undermines revolutions. The only though the Maoists have tried very conflict. destiny have now found those hard- on their present path, the Maoists will It is also politically unwise to time violence may be justified is if all hard to justify their violence, these After the ceasefire, the Maoists earned rights slipping away. By go down and they will take the resort to murder and terror as a way other peaceful, constitutional paths are not the only factors that caused embarked on a brutal campaign to obstructing democracy, the Maoists country with them. t to win support from the people, just are blocked. Resorting to the gun the conflict. The real reason for the wear down the state and terrorise the have made the monarchy more as it is against international instead of non-violent ways of violence is the ideology of Nepali people into submission. It is difficult assertive. Their concerted attacks on Raghu Panta is the former UML MP humanitarian law to kill unarmed achieving social and political Maoists and the methods they justify to understand why the Maoists don’t parliamentary parties helped from Lalitpur. This opinion piece is policemen or soldiers. The state transformation is a sign of the in its name. Their argument is that see that this isolates them and regressive forces turn back the clock translated from an original Nepali can’t go around mowing down revolutionary romanticism of society’s transformation can only take irreversibly erodes their political on Nepal’s democratic evolution. contribution. 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 ECONOMY NEPALI TIMES #164 7

BIZ NEWS ECONOMIC SENSE by ARTHA BEED

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ AADB special silencereview team of onthe Asian Kali Development Gandaki Bank has mediated an agreement between the government and the Italian civil works contractor of the Kali Gandaki A hydro project on environment and resettlement issues, according to a bank statement Thursday. But glaringly absent in the statement is any mention of a US $50 million cost overrun controversy. The Nepal Electricity Authority paid the contractor, Impregilo ne need not go further than economy, then surely SpA, this amount without the NEA even notifying its board (Nepali Times Beyondneighbouring West Bengal consumption khasinomics patterns as well as #155). NEA the amount was due to unforeseen delays and complications in India to witness the puja- the GDP growth for the first half We must find more lucrative in the construction. In its statement, the ADB said its review team had economy in action. Creating of the year will be affected. But found that the overall project cost was still below the appraisal estimate of carnival type events that showcase we would still need to ponder on ways○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ to be original. $450 million. Responding to a public interest writ filed last week by a Oreligion and culture will lead to creative ways to cash in on the Bipali workers in India, Syangja resident, the Supreme Court has issued a show cause notice to tourism development in the long festivities. This Beed has often especially from western Nepal are NEA on the excess payment made to the contractor. run. Of course it requires local harped about the need of turning less than keen to come home for municipal authorities, various the holiday into the money- the holidays. They are easy targets,

community organisations and the spinner that it has the potential to returning home with hard-earned ○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ private sector to work together. be in terms of creating events and money. Besides, in most places, CommerceICD logjam Ministry officials removed will be in New Delhi next week for a railway Sadly, Nepali creative flow, with bringing celebrations outside their there are no banks to open an agreement with India that will pave the way for the operation of the regard to Dasai, don’t seem to own homes. account. The chain reaction will Inland Container Depot built near Birgunj with support from the World extend further than setting up a This year holidaymakers are set off reactions even among the Bank. going to be best Dasai we’ve ever Although the construction was finished two years ago, the ICD has website for buying khasis online. facing many impediments: fewer big business houses in Kathmandu. been held up because of the absence of a Railway Act in Nepal. Nepali Novel, yes, but hardly capable of people are travelling home The new breed of Kathmandu had. Nepalis are killing Nepalis all officials had said they did not want to operate under the Indian Railway leveraging our economy. because of security concerns. consumers had picked up on a new over the kingdom. The current Act. With the ICD agreement expiring this month, the government has Dasai has a direct effect on the Then there’s the problem of trend, getting out around the political impasse has sharpened our decided to tentatively begin the operation under the Indian Railway Act. country’s economy. A substantial logistics—getting from point A to Valley and Pokhara during Dasai. insecurities. And now, the Beed, as India has already brought its broad-gauge railway line to 400m inside chunk of consumption in rural point B is almost never a straight It was catching on till earlier this a bearer of bad tidings, has heard Nepali territory which is linked with the container port. The Rs 920 million Nepal takes place during the line in Nepal. The shut down of a year. The hotel industry, hardest hit, rumours of a bandh during the project will contribute huge savings for transit costs to Calcutta port for festival. It’s boomtime for tailors few private airlines has curtailed has become despondent. This year festival. When will begin to realize goods to and from Nepal. who conduct nearly 60 percent of air travel. So apart from a few most can’t even muster up enough our potential? t Under the ICD project, two other dry ports are already operational in their year’s business in one month. touts, not many people are enthusiasm for domestic tourism.

Bhairawa and Biratnagar to facilitate third-country trade and transit. If Dasai is the barometer of this benefiting. From the looks of it, this is not [email protected]

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ADe one-day Bono workshop workshop aimed at business executives, corporate houses, banks, media and the travel trade on management techniques of Edward de Bono is being conducted at the Hyatt Regency on Monday, 29 September. Sponsored by Business Service Aadhar and The Himalayan Times, the workshop will be condcuted by trainer Ravin Lama. De Bono’s theory of ‘lateral thinking’ promotes innovative thinking and creative problem-solving that is vital to corporate success. (Contact: 4771001) NEW PRODUCTS YUM TOM YUM: Wai Wai just took on a new Thai flavour with a distinct lemon grass and shrimp flavour giving it a unique hot and sour taste. Chaudhary Group says they are delighted by the market response. The group also recently introduced Golmol Cheese Balls to snack-hungry Nepalis.

NEW WHEELS: Malaysia’s Proton spans from east to west. The popular model is out to win Nepali hearts with its sleek European looks. Bhudeo Trading, an enterprise of Golchha Organisation, are the authorised dealers for Proton and have state-of- the-art after sales servicing.

EAST ASIAN WOOD: Rich Interiors in New Plaza, Putali Sadak may be the biggest showroom in the kingdom, with furniture imported from Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Taiwan and China. Its wide range ensures something to suit every budget. A finance scheme courtesy of Kumari Bank makes them affordable.

Nepal Remittance 8 FESTIVAL

When it rolls out the red carpet every two years, Film South Asia (FSA) is a showcase for the finest documentaries on the subcontinent. The carefully selected entries cover a wide variety of the issues and concerns within South Asia. The aim of the organisers, the Kathmandu-based nonprofit Himal Association, is to use the medium of documentary film to expand the boundaries of the viewer's knowledge. More than 40 extraordinary films have been short-listed for FSA ’03 and festival director Manesh Shrestha is delighted: “We have seen an exhilarating advance in terms of the quality, quantity and variety of themes tackled. This year’s festival will provide the best opportunity ever to view what non-fiction filmmakers from the region have to offer.” Filmmakers from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Festival of South Asian Sri Lanka and Nepal will also use the festival as a forum for sharing ideas and looking for Documentaries methods by which to popularise the documentary format within the region and around the world. For the frst time since the start of the festival in 1997, organisers say that almost all of the filmmakers are coming to Kathmandu at their own cost. “We at FSA believe that the powerful medium Aftershocks: A Rough Guide to Democracy struggles with his doubts and seeks to uncover the roots of his religion Aftershocks is a “study from below” and identity. of the audio/visual will not only help to better of the globalising economy and the Alex Gabbay has an MA in Direction and Documentary production represent the region internationally but will corporatisation of democracy. and is currently working on a PhD in the same at Sheffield Hallam also contribute immensely to attempts at Examining the acquisition of two University in the UK. He has worked on some 20 documentary films in changing things for the better at the local earthquake-affected villages for the capacity of director, editor and cameraman. level,” Shrestha told us. lignite mining and power generation, Hall A 11.55 AM on 28 September At the opening of the festival, the Nepali the film shows the subsequent documentary Itihas Jitneharuko Lagi (by displacement of residents and Bheda Ko Oon Jasto… In Search of a Song Pranay Limbu) was screened and Mumbai- tracks the transformation of the Narayan Wagle is one of welfare state into an instrument of corporate governance. Nepal’s best-known based filmmaker Mahesh Bhatt made the Rakesh Sharma began his film and TV career as an assistant journalists. For eight years he keynote address ‘Documentary Films and director on Shyam Benegal’s Discovery of India series. His broadcast would sing a folk song he’d Popular Perception’. industry experience includes the set-up and launch of Channel [V], Star heard in the highlands north of The three-member jury at FSA ‘03 is headed by Plus, and the Tamil-language Vijay TV. Sharma has also worked for Kathmandu, Bhedako Oon former BBC India Correspondent Mark Tully Doordarshan, India as a broadcast-ops consultant, for TV Today during Jasto, to his friends, to and also includes Lubna Marium, an artist and the 1998 Indian elections, and for Zee Gold, USA, as a presentor. strangers, to singers and culture critic from Dhaka, and Lalsawmliani Aftershocks is his first feature-length film. musicians. No one knew it. Tochhawng, an ardent film enthusiast and Hall A 4.20 PM on 26 September Early this year, Wagle travelled up the Langtang Valley with members of the popular Nepali band Nepathya and his friend, the filmmaker. They charge d’affairs of the prestigious IIC Film Swara - A Bridge Over Troubled Water journeyed from rhododendron fields in Nepal’s midhills to frozen lakes in Club in Delhi. Past juries have been headed by Swara examines and comments on the highlands, in search for the source of this song. well-known South Asian filmmakers such as the Pakhtun practice of giving Kiran Shrestha worked as a radio presenter and then for five years Shyam Benegal and Goutam Ghose. young girls in marriage as as a television producer specialising in development issues. His first After screening numerous films over four days reparation for serious crimes such independent film Forced (1999) was on the children of western Nepal, in Kathmandu, the 15 best films from FSA will as murder committed by their and Bhedako Oon Jasto is his first non-development film. Shrestha be selected and taken all over the world as fathers, brother or uncles. currently runs a music management company 'event nepa~laya'. Samar Minallah is trained as an Hall A 5.45 PM on 28 September part of Travelling Film South Asia. Each of the anthropologist and has an MPhil past three Travelling Festivals have gone to from the University of Cambridge, UK. She has worked on two previous Looking for Kannan about 50 venues, half of them in South Asia documentaries on Pakistan’s North-West Frontier Province, focussing Yasir Khan first met Kannan in the and the rest across the US, Europe and South on fertility rites and Talibanisation. Minallah is a freelance journalist and year 2000. The 15-year-old had just East Asia. works with the Aurat Foundation. surrendered to the Sri Lankan army, Hall A 10.30 AM on 27 September which promised to rehabilitate him and release him into society. Looking for Kannan is about Khan’s trip back No. 556, 13th Lane Kamathipura, Mumbai two years later in search of the In-house picks This documentary is based on former Tamil Tiger child soldier, to see a real-life rescue operation. On if the army had kept its promise. the night of 14 August 2001, Yasir Khan is a freelance the Rescue Foundation broadcaster living in Toronto. His previous documentary on Canadian (formerly known as Maiti Nepal pilgrims going to Mecca earned him an honorouble mention at the Mumbai) conducted a raid on Columbus Film and Video Festival. Khan is also an award-winning brothel No 556, 13th Lane radio producer. Kamathipura, based on Hall B 10.40 AM on 26 September information given by a customer. Fourteen girls were rescued from a hidden cell above the bathroom in the brothel. However, only four of them were officially Qabool Kuran Dhathi Hageegaiy declared minors and reunited with their parents. There is no information Qabool Kuran Dhathi Hageegaiy on what happened to the other girls after the raid, or where they are. looks at violence against women in Sushmita Basnet was born in Sikkim, India. She has a BA from the Maldives from the point of view Sophia College (Mumbai University). In summer 1999 she did an of the perpetrator as well as that of intensive filmmaking course at the New York Film Academy. No. 556, 13th the victim. The film succeeds in Lane Kamathipura, Mumbai is her second documentary. Basnet is bringing psychological, sociological currently working on her next project. and legal perspectives to the Hall A 2PM on 27 September problem . Ahmed Nazmi has directed a DV feature 30 Dhuvas, a Maldivian- Godhra Tak: The Terror Trail In Search of Zhang Zhung language film, and has worked on several advocacy and development Godhra Tak: The Terror Trail investigates the Godhra train burning and Gelek, a Bön monk, accompanied by related films for international donor agencies in the Maldives. subsequent rioting that killed 3,500 Muslims in Gujarat, India. an American photographer, dhamis Hall B 11.55 AM on 26 September Shubradeep Chakravorty retraces the route of the first batch of (oracles) and shaman priests, karsevaks from Gujarat to Ayodhya and back, documents the terror en undertakes a journey from route and depicts the incident at Godhra railway station. Kathmandu to discover for himself FSA ’03 from 25 - 28 September at the Russian Cultural Centre, Kathmandu. Tickets (Rs 25 per screening) are available at Saraswati Book Centre, Pulchowk Chakravorty is a journalist and independent documentary film the ancient kingdom of Zhang Zhung (5521599/5528017); Mandala Book Point, Kantipath (4227711); Suwal Music and maker based in New Delhi, India. He has worked with the United where Bön flourished centuries ago. Video, Lazimpat (4421522); Dhokaima Café, Patan Dhoka (5543017). Newspaper Network, Asian News International, and Doordarshan, all in Travelling through the stark, Contacts: New Delhi. He currently runs the production house New Stream Media. beautiful landscapes of Nepal and Email: [email protected] Godra Tak is the first documentary he has produced and directed Tibet, the places and people the group encounters shed light on Bön, a Tel: +977-1-5542544/ 5541196 under his own banner. religion different and arguably older than Tibetan Buddhism. Throughout Website: www.himalassociation.org/fsa Hall A 5.35 PM on 25 September the pilgrimage Gelek philosophises on what it means to be a Bön monk, 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 NEPALI TIMES #164 9 Vikas Bandook Ki Naal Se Maharastra, India, 2003, dir - Raghav Dar Tamil fisherfolk compete with big trawlers (Development Flows from Urbanisation of culture in rural India Resilient Rhythms (64 min) 2:00 pm the Barrel of the Gun) (54 min) 3:15 pm India, 2002, dir- Gopal Menon India, 2003, dir - Biju Toppo and Meghnath Itihass Jitneharuka Laagi Dalits and the odds For the sake of a larger good (History for Winners) (47 min) 5:20 pm Nepal, 2003, dir - Pranay Limbu Mat (The Vote) (60 min) 3:15 pm Aftershocks: A singer who refuses to fight Uttar Pradesh, India, 2003, dir- Pankaj Rishi Kumar A Rough Guide to Democracy (64 min) 4:20 pm Democracy in action in UP Festival of South Asian Gujarat, India, 2002, dir - Rakesh Sharma Sunday, 28 September Documentaries An instance of corporate governance A Kind of Childhood (50 min) 4:25 pm War and Peace/Jang Aur Aman (138 min) 9:30 am Bangladesh, 2002, dir - Tareque and Catherine Masud The Men in the Tree (98 min) 5:35 pm India/Paksitan, 2002, dir - Anand Patwardhan Young Idris on the streets of Dhaka India, 2002, dir - Lalit Vachani The repercussions of going nuclear Fundamentalism revisited A Night of Prophecy (77 min) 5:25 pm In Search of Zhang Zhung (60 min) 11:55 am India, 2002, dir - Amar Kanwar Saturday, 27 September Nepal and Tibet, 2003, dir - Alex Gabbay Poets in times and places of conflict A journey to the cradle of Bon Jab’r Ki Shadi-Vilayat Mein (12 min) 9:30 am Saturday, 27 September Pakistan, 2003, dir - Beena Sarwar Ujan Beye (Across The Tide) (58 min) 2:30 pm Pakistani girls forced into marriage Calcutta, India, 2002, dir - Nirmalya Bondopadhyay Diverted to Delhi (55 min) 10:40 am Revisiting Naxalite sites Delhi, India, 2002, dir - Greg Stitt Swara – A Bridge over Troubled Water (40 min) International call centres thrive in India Pakistan, 2003, dir- Samar Minallah Terror’s Children (45 min) 3:40 pm ‘Girl sacrifice’ in tribal Pakistan Pakistan/Afghanistan, 2003, dir - Sharmeen Obaid Words on Water (85 min) 11:45 am Afghani children eke out a living in Karachi India, 2002, dir- Sanjaya Kak Made in India (39 min) 10:30 am An update on the Narmada movement HALL India, 2002, dir - Madhusree Dutta Tell Them the Tree They Have Planted ‘A’ Visual culture in contemporary India Has Now Grown (58 min) 4:35 pm Aabar Ashibo Phire (Way Back Home) (120 min 2:00 pm Kashmir, India, 2002, dir- Ajay Raina Calcutta, India, 2002, dir- Supriyo Sen Thursday, 25 September Buru Sengal (The Fire Within) (57 min) 11:20 am A Kashmiri Brahmin returns ‘home’ Reliving the Partition in the east Jharkhand, India, 2002, dir - Shriprakash Majma (Performance) (54 min) 4:30 pm Extracting coal, but at what cost? JAI NEPAL CINEMA The 18th Elephant – 3 Monologues (62 min) 4:15 pm Delhi, India, 2001, dir - Rahul Roy Bheda Ko Oon Jasto – Kerala, India, 2003, dir - P Balan Wrestling and sex on Delhi streets Hunting Down Water (32 min) 12:30 pm In Search of a Song ... (55 min) 5:45 pm Elephants speak up against human atrocities India, 2003, dir - Sanjay Barnela and Nepal, 2003, dir - Kiran Krishna Shrestha Godhra Tak; The Terror Trail (60 min) 5:35 pm Vasant Saberwal Following a tune to the mountains Aap Hamare Hai Kaun (7 min) 5:30 pm Gujarat, India, 2003, dir - Shubradeep Chakravorty The shortage and surplus of water India, 2002, dir - Madhusree Dutta Reconstruction of the train incident HALL Whatever happened to Gandhi’s legacy? No. 556. 13th Lane, Kamathipura, Mumbai Friday, 26 September (17 min) 2:00 pm ‘B’ Naata (The Bond) (45 min) Bombay, India, 2002, dir - Sushmita Basnet Friday, 26 September Bombay, 2003, dir- KP Jayasankar and A Monteiro Sita’s Family (60 min) 10:30 am Raid on a Bombay brothel Crisis of identity in modern India Delhi, India, 2003, dir - Saba Dewan Kathmandu Odyssey (35 min) 10:40 am A Delhi journalist looks back on her life Manjuben Truckdriver Nepal, 2003, dir - Shekhar Kharel Sunday, 28 September (Miss Manju Truckdriver) (52 min) A poet recalls Kathmandu of the hippies Papa 2 (24 min) 11:40 am Gujarat, India, 2002, dir - Sherna Dastur Sand and Water (105 min) 10:40 am Kashmir, India, 2002, dir - Gopal Menon Dreams and aspirations of a lady at work Looking for Kannan (23 min) Bangladesh, 2002, dir - Shaheen Dill-Riaz Trail of sorrow in the Valley Sri Lanka, 2002, dir - Yasir Khan Life along the Jamuna The Story Tellers (46 min) 3:30 pm An uneasy peace prevails Shei Rater Kotha Bolte Eshechi Delhi, India, 2003, dir - Gargi Sen Ethrayum Yatha Bhagam (Tale of the Darkest Night) (43 min) Translating literature from the vernacular Qabool Kuran Dhathi Hageegaiy (The Journey So Far) (45 min) 12:30 pm Bangladesh, 2001, dir - Kawsar Chowdhury (Unbelievable Realities) (25 min) 11:55 am Kerala, India, 2003, dir - CV Sathyan Pakistani army begins attack on East Pakistan The Unconscious (19 min) 4:25 pm Maldives, 2002, dir- Ahmed Nazmi Life and times of a Malayalam poet Maharastra, India, 2003, dir - Manisha Dwivedi Island rises against domestic violence Searching for Saraswati (62 min) 2:00 pm A different kind of sexual identity Where Do I Go from Here (45 min) 2:30 pm Uttar Pradesh, India, 2003, dir - Sudheer Gupta Restless Shores (20 min) India, 2002, dir - Yasmine Kidwai Folklore of the Kumbha mela The Race (16 min) Tamil Nadu, India, 2003, dir- Noel Rajesh The elderly look at their cheerless lives 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003

10 WORLD NEPALI TIMES #164 ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ WASHINGTONHigh stakes – Activists are accusing the World Bank of sacrificing environmental and social balance in poor nations by funding large projects like dams, power plants and pipelines as part of its new strategy to back “high-risk, high-reward” projects. The Reforms transform Sri Lanka’s economy Washington-based international financial institution (IFI), the world’s economic success to the war itself. The largest development agency, also said it was considering renewed continued high security conditions support for new oil, mining and gas projects in developing and state of emergency, for instance, countries, some of which, say “green” groups, are unstable and In war and peace allowed the government to carry out mismanaged. Now a new report, Gambling With People’s Lives, World Bank-proposed structural critiques the Bank’s new funding strategy for projects in water, reforms and liberalisation plans forestry and extractive industries. (IPS) without meeting the kind of civil unrest that such reforms have sparked in many other countries. The

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ population’s distraction with war also WASHINGTONMilitary aid – Spurred soars on by the wars on drugs and terrorism, gave the government space and reason US military aid to Latin America has more than tripled over the last to privatise many state-owned five years, according to a report by three foreign policy groups. corporations. But Venogopal is quick Paint by Numbers: Trends in US Military Programmes with Latin to distance his research from any America, expresses concern over the growing number of simple cause-and-effect relationship. obstacles to obtaining reliable information about US military-related The privatisation of some of the programs in the region. At a time when the region’s economies are largest national companies—including stagnating or even shrinking, throwing millions more people into the national airline, gas and poverty, total US military aid to Latin America now almost equals the telecommunications companies and amount of money Washington is devoting to social or economic major tea plantations—occurred in the development there.(IPS) early 1990s, when the war raged at its THARUKA DISSANAIKE minority. Now, the LTTE feels that of strong economic growth”, says fiercest. “The war has in perverse ways

in COLOMBO ○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○ their economic needs have not been Rajesh Venugopal, research fellow in cushioned the effects of the reforms,”

eace negotiations are rarely just addressed—since the February 2002 Britain’s University of Oxford. ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ including cuts in jobs and welfare OTTAWAEasier – Canadaaccess is taking steps to open its doors to more about politics. When Tamil ceasefire, they argue, there has been According to government and subsidies, says Venugopal. Whether immigrants by scaling back a “points system” that gave the country Tiger rebels in April halted little development of roads, schools, Central Bank figures, the Sri Lankan these impressive growth figures have a reputation as a hard place to get into. Pressure from the courts, what had until then been mostly hospitals and power in the Tamil- economy grew at a steady 5 percent a translated into improved living immigration lawyers and government members of parliament is one cordial peace talks with the Sri Lankan dominated Northern and Eastern year in the 1990s, and the number standards is another matter however. Pgovernment, the reasons were provinces, which experienced most of of poor households actually fell from Jehan Perera, an economist and reason for the reversal. Canada, which prides itself on being a magnet for people looking for a new country, has been unable economic. Tellingly—and the conflict. They are now asking for 30.4 percent in 1990 to 26.7 director of the NGO National Peace to attract enough skilled immigrants and businesspeople in symbolically—the rebels, who are an LTTE-led interim administration percent in 1996. Exports tripled in Council, says although reforms recent years. members of the Liberation Tigers of to control these war-hit areas. the first 15 years of the conflict. The pushed through during the war years While Ottawa set its sights on 300,000 skilled newcomers a Tamil Eelam or LTTE, also refused to The development challenge faced reforms which generated such improved productivity and growth, year—one percent of its population of 30 million—the number of attend an important donor conference by Tamils in these provinces is small surprising growth transformed the the country continued to pay through people who achieved enough points in applying has steadily in Tokyo in June, which netted a compared with people in other country from a plantation export the nose for the war. Funds for declined. In 2002, about 230,000 immigrants arrived in Canada, reported $4 billion in aid for the countries emerging from prolonged based economy to a free market- education, health and poverty down from 250,000 the previous year. The target for this year was country. When the official talks began conflict, because of a unique oriented de-regulated economy. reduction stagnated while military 220,000-245,000 but new targets are expected in about a month. in September 2002 hopes were high phenomenon: the rest of Sri Lanka Venogopal, says, “The conflict has spending skyrocketed. A third of the An estimated 113,000 immigration applicants will now have a new for an early end to Sri Lanka’s 20-year experienced economic growth during not been at odds with economic 2000 budget was spent on defence, or improved chance to become Canadians. The points system civil war, which has cost at least the war. While many countries have development at all but rather has while 8 percent went into health and awards applicants for a variety of attributes, such as working 70,000 lives. had to grapple with the destruction of advanced side by side, in step with 14 percent into education. skills, education, age, experience, and the ability to speak English or Predictably, the initial rounds the formal economy, “two decades of parallel changes in the government’s Defence spending nearly doubled French. Adaptability to the country also gives extra points. (IPS) were dominated by the political conflict in Sri Lanka in the 1980s and development policy.” from $360 million in 1995 to $521 aspirations and rights of the Tamil 1990s have paradoxically been a time He attributes some of this million in 2000. t (© PANOS) 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 NEPALI TIMES #164 11 COMMENT by PRAFUL BIDWAI

under construction. India has plans to set up an alternative chain of nuclear command in case the normal, regular command is decapitated or otherwise unable to function during a crisis. It is unclear if much progress has been made in this direction. It seems likely too that the original target for transferring nuclear-capable military equipment from the three services to its operational arm (the Strategic Force Command) by the end of August, has been missed. This may take some more time. As of now, India has the nuclear-capable 2,000- 2,500km range Agni-II ballistic missile and two versions of the short-range (150-250km) Prithvi missile, both of which can be fitted with nuclear weapons. It is also in the process of serially producing and inducting a new Pakistan- specific missile, the Agni-I, with a range of 700 to 800km. Pakistan’s response to India’s nuclear preparations is entirely predictable. It will try to match,

As India moves closer to nuclear deployment, equalise or “get even” with India. ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○diplomacy faces a meltdown too. Pakistan is believed to be more Meltdown advanced than India in marrying ive years after it conducted a defence and the national security never use them against non-nuclear nuclear warheads to missiles and it series of nuclear blasts, the adviser. powers. will certainly move towards Indian government has taken India’s nuclear stance has In the recent past, the hesitance deployment at the same pace as one more step towards the actual gradually but significantly has given way to active preparation, India. This spells a special danger. induction and deployment of hardened over the years. First, it and US pressure has eased greatly There is no strategic distance worth nuclear weapons into the country’s abandoned the old Nehru policy of under the Bush administration, the name between the two nuclear Farsenal, enhancing the nuclear nuclear abstinence and conducted a itself devoted to nuclear weapons. rivals. Therefore, “early warnings” danger in the troubled South Asian nuclear weapons test in the guise of India is now proceeding to and “indications” do not amount to region. The Political Council of the a “peaceful” explosion in 1974. “consolidate its nuclear deterrence”. much. Missile flight-time between Indian Nuclear Control Authority Then, in 1996, India walked out of The new emphasis is on making the the two countries’ cities is as little as (NCA) met recently to review the the Geneva negotiations on a Indian nuclear threat more three to eight minutes. t (IPS) “arrangements” being put in place Comprehensive Test Ban Treaty, “credible” by erecting a command for India’s nuclear weapons declaring that the ban would not and control structure and deployment and decided to lead to genuine disarmament. But demonstrating the political will to use accelerate work on various parts of India announced that it would not nuclear weapons, as well as the the infrastructure needed for “the make nuclear weapons. military capability to do so. strategic forces program”. Then, in May 1998, it shocked Strongly associated with this This was the first-ever meeting the world—and its own citizens— shift is India’s military leadership, of the Political Council of the by conducting a series of five which was brought on board as authority, which was created in nuclear tests. But soon after this, special invitees to the NCA Political January this year. The NCA is India developed some hesitation Council meeting. Going on official uniquely entrusted with developing, and experienced problems in briefings about Monday’s meeting, deploying and, when operationalising its weapons the Political Council was informed necessary,ordering the launch of capability. The US government, that neither the command-and- nuclear weapons. The NCA consists which held a dozen rounds of talks control (C-2) nor the indications- of the Political Council, an with top Indian officials on the issue, and-warning (I&W) system is yet Executive Council with also mounted pressure on New Delhi in place. The I&W system’s recommendatory powers and the not to openly deploy its atomic function is to alert the NCA of a Strategic Forces Command, weapons. possible hostile nuclear attack. The composed of the representatives of the There was some ambiguity C-2 system is meant to take three services, which is meant to about India’s nuclear doctrine and command of nuclear weapons and manage the nuclear arsenal. its emphasis on the pledge of “no- authorise their use. The Political Council alone can first-use”—namely, the According to some other authorise the use of nuclear commitment that the country reports, a planned concrete weapons. It is comprised of the would not be the first to use underground bunker, where the prime minister, the ministers for nuclear weapons (it would only fire nuclear command post is to be

home, finance, external affairs and them in retaliation); and it would housed, is not yet ready, but is

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ TheMaldives tranquil holiday unrest archipelago of the Maldives was rocked by unprecedented riots last week in which government buildings were set on fire in the capital, Male (see pic, right). The town remained tense after the unrest, triggered by the deaths of two inmates in a riot on a jail island near Male. Relatives said that the inmates were killed by police. The government cracked down heavily on the protestors, firing tear gas and making many arrests. denies. This week, Amnesty called on the government One dissident website has put the number of arrested to end what it called “systematic abuse” of dissidents, at 100 but the actual figure is thought to be lower. adding that the disturbances are a sign of public The death toll from the weekend’s violence rose to frustration over human rights. It also said radical three on Monday, as a convict injured in the prison reform of the criminal justice system was urgently riot died. needed. Crowds threw stones at government buildings and President Gayoom blamed the weekend’s set fire to vehicles and public property. Many were mayhem on hardened criminals and said they would protesting against the government of President be punished. In a televised address to the nation on Maumoon Abdul Gayoom, who is seeking another Saturday, he also promised to punish security term after 25 years in office. Residents in Male said personnel found to be responsible for the deaths of the injured prisoners had been flown out of the inmates. Five security staff who were on duty at the country for treatment so they could not provide a prison during the riot have been arrested. focus for fresh protest. The Maldives’ tourism industry, which is restricted In July this year, human rights group Amnesty to outlying atolls, has not been affected. Even the International accused the government of imprisoning airport is on an island separated by sea from the and intimidating its critics—a charge the government capital. 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 12 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS THIS PAGE CONTAINS MATERIAL SELECTED FROM THE NEPALI PRESS NEPALI TIMES #164

Mohammad Mohasin in Deshantar, 21 September There are only two powers in the country: one On the other, we cannot transform society if supports the constitution and the other does not. we exclude the historical unifier of Nepali Those who have studied Nepali political history understood The king is for the constitution. The parliamentary society. This is not to say that we must longTrust ago that politics flows upstream. Thisthe is nothing new. monarchyparties are also committed to the constitution. revive the monarchy but we should at least These are challenges that come with the transformation of Unfortunately, there is a crisis of confidence trust it. The political upheaval of 1960 was society and evolution of a political system. A lack of leadership among the constitutional forces, and the anti- due to differing views between King and our weak comprehension of political history kept us from constitution bloc is taking advantage of the Mahendra and BP Koirala. In essence, their recognising changing circumstances, which is why we find situation. This is a misunderstanding that has rift still divides the country today. But we ourselves misgoverned and directionless. If we don’t bring the arisen from different concepts of democracy. Nepal know that without nationalism, democracy situation under control, things will get worse. cannot blindly follow foreign principles that say the has no value. On the other hand, the Foreign powers are playing an active role because of our king should stay away from politics, and only country can’t be strong without democracy. weakness. Their interference in small poor countries isn’t political parties should be responsible for the We need to find an inclusive mantra that novel. Our inefficiency makes it easier for them to meddle in political processes in the kingdom. combines nationality and democracy. our affairs. The nation must reach some kind of national Our country has a different historical and social The fate of the nation is in the balance. consensus. The monarchy is the only institution in Nepal’s setting. The king represents a political force And as far as the Maoists are concerned, if political spectrum that has the capability of giving the country’s and a history. The existence of the monarchy is they are nationalists and value sovereignty, history and political process a direction. The time has come for knitted into the very fabric of Nepal. Everyone they should understand they are the it to play a decisive role. All eyes are on the king. The political should reaffirm faith in this institution and get on reason external threats are increasing. parties, foreigners and even the Maoist rebels, have accepted with nation-building. Why isn’t this happening? It is up to them to negotiate with the the stature of the king. He is in a position to make important On one hand the political and the constitutional constitutional forces so disaster doesn’t decisions now. forces have not been able to reach an agreement. befall Nepal.

with the Maoists. A timetable is need help from our neighbours. proposed the idea during the another fellow held me by my hours, I was weak and fell off the

○○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○ needed to sequence these measures. If Friendly countries should help us Congress and we stand to benefit neck. He was pointing a pistol at chair. Then their questions were: HiranayaTriangular Lal Shrestha inrivals parliament is reinstated, the Maoists build an environment instead of from it,” says Udaya Raj Sharma, my temple and I was already How do Maoists contact journalists? Punarjagaran, 23 September will not be present. If a government is interfering Nepal’s internal Vice-chairman of World Congress of shaking with fear. I showed them What are the news sources of Jana formed only with parliamentary forces, business. We also need foreign aid Protected Areas South Asia. IUCN my identity card and shouted that I Astha? The present situation is triangular and it will keep the Maoists out. Since they for the people displaced by war, and has now defined seven kinds of was a journalist. But they snatched Now that I am free, I am proud competitive. The rivalry between the have consolidated power in rural areas it is desirable for the United protected areas. Nepal already has the card and a book I was carrying. that I never revealed my news sources king and the political parties has eased. with their own army and a parallel Nations to monitor the ceasefire. If national parks, wildlife reserves, I was handcuffed and blindfolded. to them. When the food came I could Responding to foreign pressure, the government, keeping the Maoists out elections are held, the world body hunting reserves and protected areas. A vehicle arrived at the scene and I hardly eat because my face had two big parties have toned down their of the mainstream will not lead to a can act as a watchdog to see that Nearly 20 percent of the country is was carried inside. A weighty sack swollen up. I vomited whatever little movement to forge unity among longterm solution. everything runs smoothly. We protected, something that will aid the was loaded on me so that I could I ate. I never knew whether it was day constitutional forces. On the other At this critical time, the king, as should opt for the UN rather than implementation of the community not move. I couldn’t see Krishna, or night because I was blindfolded hand, unlike during the Chand the head of the state, should call an all- other nation-states. conservation area, conservationists but I knew he was in the same throughout the ordeal. government, the members of the party conference to work on a basic say. It is also expected to add a new vehicle. “Hand over your mobiles Since they kept me asking the present cabinet don’t seem to be able national program and form a dimension to community forestry in or pagers to us,” said a voice. “Do same questions round the clock, I

government on the basis of national you have any weapons?” KC said, decided not to eat, thinking that

○○○○○○○○○○ to agree on who should be the next ○○○○○ the country. prime minister. unity. That government should hold NKOur Dahal forests in Spacetime, “How can we have weapons? It is without food I would fall ill and need The parties did not receive the whatever kind of election the 21 September you who have the weapons.” In need medical attention at a civil

conference agrees on. Either the response, we received several hospital from where my state would ○○○○○○○○○○○○ kind of support that they expected ○○○○ from the people because their leaders Maoists will convince the parties on A recent proposal passed by the SitaramMy story Baral in Jana Astha, blows. We stopped, I was separated become public. When I resorted to prioritised power over peace. Activists the necessity of a constituent assembly World Park Congress in Durban 24 September from Krishna and taken to a room fasting, many of them came to me may have participated wholeheartedly or the parties will make the rebels can help Nepal make new rules to for interrogation. They asked me and threatened that I would suffer in the movement but the people chose believe that constitutional amendments implement the concept of I was waiting for my friend Krishna what position I had in the Maoist and die. I decided to have food to see to stay away. This tussle between the will community conservation. The KC who was the former vice- fold. “You guerrilla, how many if they kept their words. palace and the parties has only do for now. If they still have congress, organised by the World chairman of All Nepal National Free persons have you killed so far?” Then they made me change my benefited the Maoists. differences, it could be resolved Conservation Union (IUCN), Students’ Union (Revolutionary) at were the kind of questions they shirt and put on dark glasses and a The need of the hour is an through a referendum on an improved discussed the criteria for giving Koteswor on 17 August. As soon he asked. I wasn’t a guerrilla, so I hat before driving off with me. I was agreement between the king and constitution or a constituent assembly. ownership of conservation to local appeared, a lanky figure tried to couldn’t answer that question. finally freed at the Dhumabarhi parliamentary parties, and after that Civil society has to be active as the communities just as we have done obstruct his way. Before I could They used sticks, fists and kicks. section of Ring Road after five days in they have to collectively hold dialogue fourth force in the country. And we with community forestry. “India make out what was happening, The torture continued for several their custody.

18-30Man September, Bahadur Himal Khabarpatrika Tamang, porter Surya Tumbahangphey interviewed porter Man Bahadur Tamang in Khotang.

When did you start carrying loads? It’s been seven years.

How much do you carry on your back? This time, I have 135kg with my food and stuff on top.

How much do you weigh? I am 68kg.

How much do they pay you for portering? I can earn from Rs 2,600-6,000 per trip.

How many days is that from Gaighat to Diktel? Roundtrip seven days.

And how much do you spend on the way? With alcohol it comes to Rs 250.

Who hires you? I’ll carry loads for anyone who pays me.

Robin Sayami in Himal Khabarpatrika, 18-30 September Have you been to school? Till grade three.

QUOTE OF THE WEEK Married? Too late, I’ve become old just carrying loads. Maoists should know that the people did not willingly or voluntarily support their three-day bandh. Have you heard people are getting killed all over the country? Shailendra Kumar Upadhyay in Nepal Samacharpatra, 25 September I’ve heard. And I’m scared they may take away my load. 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 HISTORY AND CULTURE NEPALI TIMES #164 13

In keeping with the prevailing custom then, Punjabi, Garhwali, Dogra and ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ○○○○MAN BAHADUR RAI I didn’t go to school and lived in a cowshed Gurkhas—headed in that direction. If The rivertill I ran away with an army recruiterwas and red with bloodthe Gurkha regiment was in the front, it enlisted at Bettiah camp in Darbhanga, was covered by another regiment and that Bihar. one by another. In case the regiment in the The recruiters used to come to the front was wiped out its position was village in secret. They had to meet us in the automatically taken by those behind it. In forest and sweet talk us as if they were so doing, they were simply complying with courting us. They were apprehensive about strict government orders. Meanwhile, entering the village openly because a Japanese troops had crossed the river number of them got lost in that war. This downstream following a shortcut. had made parents suspicious, and they Since telephone lines from forbade recruiters from entering the village headquarters were cut off, there was no for fear they would lead the boys to their communication. The supply of rations deaths. If any recruiter was found sneaking was disrupted. Under the circumstances, into the village, he was caught and beaten imagine the predicament of our troops. up. This was the way it was even when I On inquiry it was found out that the enlisted in 1928. The recruiting officer at Japanese had blocked the supply lines Darbhanga was British. I was selected for from behind. They had also blown up The real voice of the Gurkhas has the Burma Army. After enlistment, training big radios. influence of rum the Burmese would the bridge ahead. The supply of weapons often been overshadowed by a and education was at the training centre. After our training was completed, we blurt out that their father had stepped and rations from the rear was disrupted. romantic version of their role in On our arrival at Matila in Burma, we were sent to our respective units. in. We were at a loss to understand Fleeing was the only way out as the were trained and learnt the basics of Meanwhile, we heard that the war front what this revelation by the Duppy Japanese continued bombarding us from British Army during both world marching in the course of a year. After that was approaching our area. Having implied. Burmese were called Duppy the other side. As we retreated we wars. Retired Gurkha soldiers, we were posted at Machina. I was smarter successfully completed our training, we because they let the fish rot inside tins, discovered that the bridge was blown most of them more than 75 years than others in our lot and was selected to were in the process of training others. then mixed it with other things and up. They did so in order to trap us from old, are now telling their own be an instructor. I served in that capacity We had no information that the Japanese consumed it. In Burmese such rotten all sides and then massacre us. stories and 13 of their for 11 years. World War II started while we had already made their way inside Burma, fish is called Duppy hence the moniker The only option open was to plunge testimonies have been published were at the training centre and we plunged and were close to where we were for the Burmese. They had hidden into the Sitang river and indeed we took right into battle. stationed. We had no doubt that the Japanese in their places, which made that recourse not withstanding the fact by Himal Books in Lahurey ko At that time I held the rank of sergeant Japanese, after penetrating inside Burma, them blurt out that their father had that Sitang is a large river. As we were Katha and were translated for and we were sent to Katha for a junior had taken to wearing Burmese clothes gone, and our father has stepped in. putting all our efforts into floating, the Nepali Times. This fortnightly leadership course. Approximately 500 and were looking for where we stored our That implied that Japanese were their Japanese started non-stop firing with serialisation of extracts of the infantrymen were deputed from Burma weapons, medicines and food. father and Britishers were ours. Those machine guns. Countless lives were lost. soldiers’ stories in their own Rifles for training. Our British instructors The Burmese are a very cold-blooded were the code words. The whole river turned red with blood. words begins with the taught us schemes of warfare. During the people, and there were a few of them in Information reached us that Skilled swimmers managed to cross the training, rumour was rife that war had our regiment. We usually frequented Japanese were expected to advance river; the rest lost their lives. Human recollections of 91-year-old Man started in Manchuria. In those days, there clubs where one could read, drink beer along the Sitang river from Thailand. bodies floated on the water and Bahadur Gurung from Pokhara were no transistor radios and we kept and play cards. There one could buy all On the basis of that information all of naturally, the casualties had to be who fought in Burma. ourselves abreast of the happenings through sorts of liquor or beer. Under the our troops—Burmese, English, astonishingly high. t 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 14 CITY NEPALI TIMES #164 ABOUT TOWN BOOKWORM DB Gurung (ed) FESTIVALS AND EXHIBITIONS Nepal Tomorrow Voices & Visions: Selected Essays on Nepal v A day in Lazimpat Photographs by Damien Murphy at the Lazimpat Gallery Café, Koselee Prakarshan, 2003 Lazimpat. Rs 999 v Water Colours by Nepal Water Colour Society members from 22 September-11 October at This is a volume with an encyclopedic scope, an intellectual assemblage of 39 of the finest minds in the Gallery Nine, Lazimpat. 4428694 country. What pushes these intellectuals apart is the idiosyncrasy in their subjects of interest and Alps & Himalayas – Yesterday & Today Photo exhibition from Eco Himal, the Society for expertise, and what pulls them together is the sense of being Nepali exerted on each of them, driven by a Ecological common shared vision. Contributors include Lain Singh Bangdel, DP Bhandari, Harka Gurung, Tara Co-operation between the Alps and the Himalayas at Nepal Tourism Board from 26 Nath Sharma and Meena Acharya. September-1 October, 8-10 October. Secrets of Angkor Photographs by National Geographic Photographer, Paulius Normantas. Graphics v Bipan Chandra Today and Tomorrow Contemporary prints by 15 Indian artists at Siddhartha Art Gallery, Baber Mahal In the name of Democracy: JP movement and the Emergency Revisited. 4218048 Penguin, 2003 Rs 560 Finely argued, incisive and original, this book is a valuable contribution to our understanding of the EVENTS v Film South Asia ’03 43 films screened back-to-back from 9.30 AM to 6.30 PM, 25-28 September at the turbulent years of the Emergency, 1975-77. Leading up to it was the JP movement, named after its Russian Cultural Centre, Kamalpokhari. Tickets: Rs 25 are available at Saraswati Book Centre (5521599), leader Jayaprakash Narayan, which paralysed much of northern India and directly challenged Prime Mandala Book Point (4227711) Suwal music and Video (4421522) and Dhokaima Café (5543017). Minister Indira Gandhi. Chandra looks at these happenings sequentially, seeking to understand their v Lazimpat Film Show: Requiem for a Dream 30 September 7PM, A Passage to India 2 October 7PM at character and what they posed for Indian democracy. Lazimpat Gallery Café. 4428549 v Creativity Edward de Bono’s Six Thinking Hats conducted by Ravin Lama at the Hyatt Regency on 29 Courtesy: Mandala Book Point, Kantipath, 4227711, [email protected] September. 4771001 v Changa Chait 2060 Kite flying competition at Club Himalaya, Nagarkot. Finals on 27 September. 4410432 v Festive Mood last Friday theme event at Dwarika’s Hotel on 26 September with Abhaya & The Steam Injuns. Rs 699 per person. 4479488.

MUSIC v PTY LTD Australian house lounge band live at the Enticer Deluxe Lounge-A-Rama at Hotel de’l Annapurna from 4PM till late on 26 September. Tickets: Rs 300. 4432583 Wake Up ! v Catch 22 back at the Rum Doodle. v Cadenza live 7.30PM Wednesday, Saturday at Upstairs Jazz Bar, Lazimpat. Get ready for a brand new day with v Thunderbolt at Rox Bar on Fridays Happy Hours 6-PM, Hyatt Regency Kathmandu. v Be a DJ at Tantra, Thamel. Open to beginners, bring your own music (electronic only) from 4PM till late on BBC World Today. 27 September. 4218565 v DJ Marathon 2-4PM lounge, 4-6PM reggae and ragga, 6-8PM hip hop and R&B, 8-10PM drums & bass and Every morning on 102.4 FM from 5:45-6:15 AM jungle, 10-12PM trance and techno, 12-2AM house and Latin house on 27 September at Via Via, Paknajol. /]l8of] ;u/dfyf DRINKS v Happy Hour Buy one get one free at Splash Bar & Grill from 5.30-7PM. Radisson Hotel, Kathmandu. Radio Sagarmatha 4411818 P.O. Box 6958, Bakhundole, Lalitpur, Nepal Tel: ++977-1-545680, 545681, Fax: ++ 977-1- 530227 v Cosmic Cocktails and chic home furnishings at Mitra Lounge Bar and Mausam homestyle boutique. Above E-mail: [email protected], www.radiosagarmatha.org Cafe Mitra, Thamel. 4259015 on FM 102.4 v Monsoon Wine Festival at Kilroy’s of Kathmandu, Jyatha. 4250440 Bollywood gets bolder with Boom. Directed by Kaizad Gustad, it FOOD v Sumptuous Sandwiches from 21 September at all Hyatt Regency outlets. 4491234 has a distinctly Tarantino and Guy Ritchie flavour, which will v Dasai and Tihar Bonanza 50 percent off food at The Fun Café and Splash Bar & Grill. Buy one service and come as a refreshing change from the soft focus depictions so get another for free at Radisson Beauty Saloon. Radisson Hotel Kathmandu. 4423888 beloved to Bollywood. Boom’s fast pace is complemented by v Roadhouse Cafe for wood fired pizzas and more. Opp St Mary’s School, Pulchowk. 5521755 the sensational music of Talvin Singh and Resul. The movie v Momos & More The finest momos in town now at Dhobighat. 5520692 stars Amitabh Bachchan as the king pin, Gulshan Grover, Jackie v Chimney Refreshed Fine continental cuisine at The Chimney Restaurant, Hotel Yak & Yeti. 4248999 Shroff, Javed Jaaferi, Zeenat Aman ,Seema Biswas and Padma v Traditional Nepali Thali lunch at Patan Museum Café inside Patan Museum. 11AM-2.30 PM. Cocktails and Lakshmi, Madhu Sapre, Katrina Kaif. With the buxom village snacks 2-7.30 PM. 5526271 lasses and sappy love stories shoved aside for an intricate plot v Saturday BBQ Lunch at Club Himalaya Nagarkot. Rs 500 per person. 468008 that involves ganglords, Indian supermodels and a large cachet v Malay, Singapore food at Singma, Jawalakhel, Lalitpur. 552004 of diamonds, Boom blows away the old stereotypes. Boom v Festival discount on vegetarian specialties at Stupa View Vegetarian Restaurant & Terrace, Boudha. 4480262 JAI NEPAL CINEMA Call 4442220 for bookings. www.jainepal.com 12PM, 3PM 6PM

GETAWAYS v Microlight flying adventures with the Avia Club, Pokhara. v September Surrender 2 nights 3 days for Rs 7,555 at Shangri-la Hotel and Resort Pokhara. 4412999 CLASSIFIED v Shivapuri Heights Cottage 30 minutes from Kathmandu, at the edge of the Shivapuri Reserve. Visit Ground Zero Fine wines, designer candles, To Let: In Jawalakhel near zoo, fully Email: [email protected] Website: www.escape2nepal.com cards, gifts, stationery, wooden items, perfumes and furnished apartment 3 bedrooms, 2 Great Godavari Getaway special weekend packages. 5560675 v more. Darbar Marg, opposite Hotel de l’Annapurna bathrooms, spacious living /dining, modern v Weekend Special for Rs 3000 per couple, Park Village Resort, Budhanilkantha. 4375280 TGIF overnight package at Dwarika’s Hotel. 4479488 kitchen individual telephone, terrace, v Visit Femilines, the Exclusive Lingerie Store for overlooking English garden with tall trees in v Bardia tiger madness Jungle Base camp has extra special deals 061-32112 Email: [email protected] ladies undergarments, nightwear, bathrobes and quiet surrounding. Available immediately more. Ladies staff. Opposite Sajha Yatayat, Harihar Contact: 5524389 KATHMANDU AIR QUALITY Bhawan, Pulchowk. Tel: 547428 LIVE IN STYLE! Arcadia Apartments in the The three day Nepal Bandh last week did wonders to Kathmandu’s air quality. To Let: Rabibhawan area two storey house 4 heart of Thamel. Centrally located, fully Even in usually heavy traffic areas the PM10 (particles that are small enough bedrooms 2 bathrooms large kitchen dining living furnished apartments at unbelievable rates. to enter the human body) levels dipped to about one-third of normal levels. In terrace lobby and porch and telephone. Contact: For details: 981026903, 4260187 the Patan Hospital area, the average PM10 level before the bandh was 184 Roshani 4275180 micrograms per cubic meter, is much higher than the national standard of 120. But during the next three days of the strike, the average PM10 went down to For insertions ring NT Marketing at 5543333-36. 91.2 61—proving once more that vehicular pollution is the main culprit. What you burn is what you breathe. Average PM10 levels at selected points in Kathmandu 16-22 September in micrograms per Good < 60 cubic meter. Ok 61 to 120 Source: www. mope.gov.np Unhealthy 121 to 350 Harmful 351 to 425 Hazardous >425 Putali Sadak Matsyagaon TU Bhaktapur Patan H. Thamel

NEPALI WEATHER by MAUSAM BEED VIS -25-09-2003 02:00 GMT This fresh series of late monsoon pulses over the Himalaya has been a surprise for meteorologists in the subcontinent. It brought torrential rains throughout Nepal, and as this satellite picture taken on Thursday morning shows, the moisture is massed along the Himalayan midhills, proving that it may be an extra-subcontinental atmospheric process Kathmandu that regenerated a deep trough over northern India. The combined effect of these Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal branches of the monsoon will dissipate by the weekend and by early next week we should finally see the monsoon backing off. KATHMANDU VALLEY Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue

S S 27-17 26-16 27-17 28-17 28-18 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 CITY NEPALI TIMES #164 15 Eating out

This side of thePatanside bridge has recently seen an improvement in the calibre and variety of restaurants. he last time most itself a café but is actually a Eric Tan is very pleased with the Kathmandulays bothered to restaurant that serves a select volume of business. The bestsellers look, which as about two French and Sichuan menu. “We are the chicken rice (inset), wonton decades ago, the Patan side of the wanted to represent the changing soup and suprisingly, the pratas— bridgeT was the boondocks—rice tastes of Nepalis towards food,” Singapore’s versions of parathas. fields, dirt lanes and a place to buy says Sandhya Sharma, Dhokaima’s “We’ve been approached to carpets. Anyone who bought head chef. franchise Singma, but we’d like to property thereabouts was asked Moving right along, the food at stay small,” says Eric over the why they wanted to live near La’Soon Restaurant and bustling lunchtime restaurant Nakkhu Jail. Vinotheque is simple but usually traffic. Today it looks like Patan is the very good, the braised mushrooms Roadhouse Café has fabulous preferred address for expats, several with spaghetti for example. It has a woodfired pizzas, and yes those of the Valley’s best schools and is, good selection of wines and the best really are the bottoms of green cola increasingly, sprouting more espresso in the area, but you’ll wish bottles stuck into the wall. Unlike restaurant branches than a the slices of chocolate cake were the Thamel headquarters, this banyan tree. less skinny. branch focuses exclusively on pizzas Patan Darbar Square is where it with a few side orders and desserts. all started to happen, and the A very nice selection of wines from restaurants and bars are still there. France and Australia, with a stray This is where the quality of the bottle or two from Chile. view usually far surpasses that of the Next door is Dan Ran run by Clockwise from top l-r: Vegetarian lunch box at Dan Ran, 1974 AD at food. Then again, when you’re Suga and his wife, Junko, who does Moksh, summits from Summit, branching out at Roadhouse Cafe and drinking in the sights from a all the delicious homestyle cooking. easy choices at Singma. rooftop vantage you don’t need Low key, comfortable and more than a chilled beer and a plate delicious, Dan Ran earns a thumbs yam fis, chic and pra, which are sampling the generous spread and of momos. Moksh is indeed a kind of up for the wet towels to freshen up very convincing substitutes for the downing cool drinks surrounded Layeku (Newari for darbar salvation for what used to be less with, pretty non-disposable real thing. Don’t judge the place by green hills. But if buffets are square) Kitchen in Mangal Bazar than stellar evening entertainment chopsticks (save the trees!) and by the interior, culinary suprises, not for you, trust us, their is where you can have genuine in Patan. Run by model-turned- fantastic options for vegetarians if not delights, await you. excellent rainow trout—farmed Newari food while watching the entrepreneur Dolly Yakthumba, it plus a whole contingent of Japanese If quick lunches are what you locally—will be. bustle of Patan unfurl. For an has been feng-shuid to within an customers. Only the earlybirds get need then make your way to the It may be a little difficult to experience in the very heart of inch of its life. It also has the best to sample their bestelling spicy zoo. Or close to it. Ja-Zoo Café find, but once you’ve discovered ancient Patan, nothing beats the apple and celery mocktails and the chicken lunch box. de Restaurant offers lunch the Summit Hotel restaurant charm of Patan Museum Café yummiest chicken cheese balls. The Sanepa branch of Momos combos that are unbelievably easy chances are you won’t forget the inside the museum where old world Moksh is also a popular venue for & More, about 200m further down on the wallet. On the way to way back. The intimate ambience charm melds in perfect harmony jam sessions with 1974 AD, perhaps Jhamsikhel, has one of best Lagankhel is Bawarchi, great for is unpretentious, the menu select with Italian pastas and delicious Nepal’s best loved rock band. brownies in the Valley. Strange Kolkata–style katthi rolls and but superb. Summit hosts the best desserts—try the Orange Bombe. The Golden Strip of the because most customers usually North Indian fare. Friday barbecue sessions, It’s not difficult to find the moment, however, is the St Mary’s inhale so many of the momos that Then there is Godavari something of a tradition among newly opened Dhokaima Café. School lane which has four new there is scarely enough room for Village Resort, only 7km from those in the know since the 80s. Precisely at Patan Dhoka, it is restaurants. Singma serves anything else. In a quiet corner of the Ring Road but feels a world On a quiet autumn night, dine out designed by architect Siddhartha Singaporean and Malaysian food at Ekantakuna is Yoek Teck, a away. It has already popular for on the patio overlooking the Gopalan to reflect a certain “1920s very reasonable prices. It’s the place family-run Malaysian vegetarian its Saturday buffets: entire garden with the Himalaya bathed down-market Rana chic”. It calls for quick lunches and Singaporean restaurant that serves up tofu and families loll about by the pool, in moonlight. Magic. t 26 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2003 16 NEPALI TIMES #164 NEPALI SOCIETY

Under byMy Kunda Hat Dixit

“Dudhe has been writing Kosirichness. The song’sin “sundara my maysoul ” be on the melodramatic side, continuously for nearly 70 shanta bishal” is not in the high- but it tugs at the heartstrings of years: songs, books and flying lingo of intellectuals, but every father or mother, and those ven though it is our duty as journos to bring events of national importance poetry that have now become a colloquial village Nepali that who listen to the verses inevitably Newsto our esteemed readers’ we notice as sooncan’t as they happen on a regularuse basis, the part of the modern Nepali everyone understands. Madhab shed a tear or two. Dasai break means that many perfectly good news items will have to be Hconsciousness. Madhab Prasad Ghimire is possibly Nepal’s greatest We asked Madhab Ghimire how discarded into the trash heap of history. But due to popular demand, we have Ghimire was honoured this week on communicator: his talent lies in he would describe himself. “Lekanth decided to resurrect some of them to fulfil our mandate to keep the public his 85th birthday as Nepal’s greatest letting Nepalis, young and old, was a koeli in spring, Debkota was Einformed without fear or favour so that the ugly truth shall prevail. living poet, our own Poet Laureate. listen to their own heart beat a skylark soaring and singing in His respect and affection for through words and music and evoke the fog, I’d say I am a Nepal to have a wet port Nepal’s bounteous nature is emotions that express our collective mountain owl hiding and BY OUR MARITIME CORRESPONDENT expressed in the music, words and existence. singing in the quiet of the Birganj – After the grand success of finally getting Nepal’s one and only dry port off rhythms of the land. Nepalis hum When his wife Gauri died 54 Himalayan night.” and running, the government is about to sign an agreement to set up a wet port in his songs as they walk the mountain years ago at age 17, leaving behind Kathmandu’s FM the near future even though, as far as we know, the country is not blessed yet with trails, work in the cities, or toil in a four-year-old son and a daughter stations have been a coastline. “This is a slight unforeseen hitch,” His Majesty’s Government’s Minister the fields. “Gaunchha gita Nepali” of six months, the heartbroken poet playing Madhab Prasad of Shipping and Oceonography told us. “But we can overcome it by requesting our has almost become Nepal’s second let his tears flow through his fountain Ghimire’s songs over and southern neighbour to permanently submerge our border areas.” national anthem, a tribute to the pen. He wrote and rewrote, revising over again this week to News that Nepal would no more be landlocked was greeted with enthusiasm by the business community which saw great potential to promote beach tourism in country’s beauty, our diversity, an and perfecting Gauri for 11 years. commemorate his Nepal, besides trekking and mountaineering. indefatigable people, and cultural This slender volume of 17 songs anniversary. t (Peshal Pokhrel) Computers hit by Red Eye Virus IT SECTION Kathmandu – Computers throughout Kathmandu Valley have been hit by a serious virus attack which is believed to have jumped the species barrier from humans and invaded all computers that run on the Microsoft Windows operating system. Experts at the Symantec Virology and Immunology Lab at Palo Alto, California said the Red Eye worm which started as a prank has now spread across the world. Symantec has a Ciprofloxacin eye patch, available at all pharmacies at inflated prices, that must be applied to the infected part of the CRT monitor twice a day. Microsoft’s Bill Gates, wearing protective dark shades, told reporters in Seattle yesterday: “I feel bad about it, but it is the users’ fault for not upgrading in time to my Windows 20/20.” All cars have to remove roofs Kathmandu – In an effort to further enhance security, the Valley police has asked all vehicle owners to remove the roofs from their cars to make it easier for them to identify passengers at the capital’s numerous security check points. Thousands of motorists thronged the Valley’s garages on Thursday to get their roofs cut out with oxyacetelene torches, and turn their sedans into convertibles. “I like the wind in my hair,” said one motorist, whose delight was short-lived when police at Bagmati Bridge told her helmets were now mandatory for occupants of cars without roofs. “We are doing it for passenger safety,” police said. “Car owners can take their helmets off when they put the roofs back on their cars after Friday.” Ambassador-at-Large in NY New York (CNN) – Nepal’s new Ambassador-at-Large today told the United National General Assembly that Nepal was willing to offer its blue helmet troops to the United Nations to restore peace in his own country. Addressing the world body, the ambassador reminded the international community that Nepali troops had amassed a wealth of experience in peacekeeping in Lebanon and Sierra Leone and would be most suitable for deployment in Nepal’s war zones because “we know the terrain better than the Fijians”. Yeti Exists: Expedition BY AN ABOMINABLE REPORTER Jomsom – A group of Nepali primatologists said today they had found indisputable proof that the yeti indeed exists. After three years extensively scouring the worldwide web through several search engines, the scientists said they had found at least 315,000 intercepts of yetis on Google alone. “When we did an image search, we found another 6,600 yetis on Ask Jeeves,” the researchers told a press conference today. “It is a myth that the yeti does not exist.” Several yetis who were approached for comment via email refused to confirm or deny their existence.

CDO Regd No. 194/056/57 Lalitpur, Central Region Postal Regd. No. 04/058/59