Chickens roam freely at Ferme Auberge du Poirier in Montrevel en , . In a world of dollar McDonald’s burgers and cheap ramen, is there a place for €100 chicken?

A Flight of Fancy France’s Poulet de Bresse

By Crystal Cun

ilence. It can stem from an asked. “Yes, yes! It’s quiet, it’s Sawkward faux pas, or fol- perfect,” we replied in unison. low the sadness of a tragedy. “Oh, all right,” he said. “I was But this silence was different, simply wondering if you had the sort that envelopes the din- all left.” I smiled to myself and ing room as the chatter of con- lifted a forkful of chicken to my versation subsides into the faint mouth. A trail of golden drip- clink of forks. The kind that pings soaked into the bed of signals complete focus on the mashed potatoes below. food in front of you, as mouths Chicken may be popularly re- chew in synchronized satisfac- garded as one of the most gener- tion. This was a silence that can ic meats on the market, but this only be obtained when the meal was no ordinary chicken on the supersedes all other priorities, table. I had arrived at Ferme Au- drowning all distractions, as you berge du Poirier, seeking more are single-mindedly driven to information about the famed plunge headlong into the plate. of . Perturbed at the quiet, the chef Along the way, I hoped to dis- poked his head into the dining cover what exactly made these room. “Is everything okay?” he birds so special, and why they matched china in the cabinets. crowned with fresh cream. This ing room, this time with a live Assorted trophies and plaques specialty of the Burgundy re- demonstration. Though the sur- were stacked under the polished gion can be eaten with a bit of rounding hubbub was cacopho- mirror, a testament to the many salt or coarse sugar sprinkled on nous, the chicken appeared un- accolades Ferme Auberge du Po- top, as you prefer. ruffled as it was cradled in irier has received for its chicken Billet’s arms. With pure Finally, we were over the years. Above the azure- white feathers, blue-tint- treated to a rustic fringed placemat, there was a ed legs and bright red prune tart, with mosaic of ruby salad greens, comb, it bore a distinct fruit picked from tomato, carrot, and delicate slic- likeness to the tricolor the trees outside. es of hard-boiled egg. The fra- French flag. “The fruit, it’s grance of fresh daffodils filled fter the hearty lunch, the air. ABillet provided a tour Billet introduced himself to us, of the farm and its op- explaining that he was for- erations. Under the merly a chef in Switzerland, Burgundy sun, but had decided to make chickens hap- a career switch to farm- pily squawked, ing. He chose to invest frolicked, and in this farm prop- chased each erty, and though other around the start-up period the wide ex- was a struggle, panse of he was proud to fields. By law, have survived 18 they are man- years in business. dated to live Two chickens face-off in a friendly tussle. Photo: Wendy Stuart “What’s the secret to suc- and eat out- cess?” Billet grinned wryly. doors, feeding “Hard work, that’s all. I work on insects, cereals commanded such extraordi- Rolls! Du caviar…et le Béluga! to 32+ weeks), and the poularde about 105 hours a week, and and milk products narily high prices. After all, the De meme, il y a des poulets et il y de Bresse (non-laying hen raised les jeunes work maybe 35 hours of the terroir. price for chapon can easily run a le Poulet de Bresse!” This is the to 20+ weeks). Although over 1.2 a week. I work three of their Ferme Auberge du Po- upwards of €30/kg. With a mini- only chicken that has received million birds are raised annual- weeks in the time that they irier also holds a herd of 60 mum weight of three kg per an Appellation d’Origine Con- ly, domestic demand for Bresse work one!” chapon…well, you can do the trôlée (AOC) designation, which chicken is so high that 95% of the Charolais cows, which graze math. Next, consider the myriad means that it is closely protected poultry is sold within France. Though he gets some help on the 35 hectares of pasture. alternative foods available for by French regulations to enforce from his wife and son, it is pri- “The cows will come to me if t Ferme Auberge du Poiri- significantly less. In a world of traditional production methods. marily Billet who oversees I call them,” commented Bil- er, farmer, chef, maître d’, Joël Billet proudly displays a member of his flock. dollar McDonald’s burgers and A every step of production, let. “You can do that only if To fully impart the terroir of the porter and proprietor Joël Billet from the grains to the chick- you see the animals every cheap ramen, is there a place for almost moving,” I joked. Lively region, Bresse chicken is raised greeted us with a hearty hand- ens to the kitchen. “The key is to day. I don’t want my animals to €100 chicken? conversation flowed around me, only in parts of the , and shake and gregariously said, have passion,” said Billet. “Also, suffer, and I kill them out of ne- drifting from debate on whether resse chicken has a long, sto- -et-Loire departments, “Bonjour et bienvenue!” it helps if you are a little crazy.” cessity, but I want to make sure ried history in France, and and must feed on pastures and salads ought to be placed at the B Stepping inside the farmhouse, they suffer less than they would brochures from the Interpro- cereals from those areas. Back in the dining room, the beginning or end of a meal, to I was immediately set at ease, on large industrial farms.” Once fessional Committee of Bresse parade of food had happily the Finnish tradition of keeping There are three types of Bres- with a gently swaying grand- the cattle finish mowing the Poultry trumpet this prestigious not ended. The roasted poulet infants’ names secret until they se chicken that are produced, father clock tucked into the grass, the flock of chickens will position unabashedly. “Il y a des de Bresse was followed by an are baptized at four months. the standard poulet de Bresse corner, fresh spiderwebs spun be rotated onto those fields to champagnes…et le Dom Péri- ivory scoop of fromage blanc (raised to 16+ weeks), the chapon around the wrought-iron ceiling Then, to much glee and excite- pick through the flies and worms gnon! Des automobiles…et la à la crème, a raw milk cheese de Bresse (castrated male raised lamps, and a collection of mis- ment, Billet returned to the din- left by the cow manure. The chickens are kept outside let, “because the birds keep get- there were alternative ways of until the last few weeks of their ting delayed in Paris and sto- creating products and making lives, when they are brought in- len in Marseilles.” About 1,200 human food without degrading side the coop for fattening. All chickens will be sold during the the environment,” he mused. birds are killed on site with a Christmas holiday season, in “Respect for the animal is very quick incision inside the throat, vacuum sealed packs complete important as well. When people after the chicken is knocked out. with cooking directions. The know the background of this To be recognized as an authen- most elegant preparation simply product, the price is not a prob- tic Bresse chicken, it must be calls for roasting the bird with lem. But if they don’t, they will sold with its head attached, and a little butter, salt, and pepper, go to Carrefour and buy two it is further identified by metal since the quality of chicken’s chickens for €4, while we sell bands and tags indicating the meat and natural fat allows the one for €30. Here, I purchase a product’s origin. bird to shine on its own. chick for €4 at the beginning of its life.” Each year, Ferme Auberge du f course, all of this comes Poirier raises and sells 3,000 Oat a significant cost. The While the price tags on the fac- birds, which are sold directly poulet de Bresse runs about €9/ tory-farmed chickens may look to consumers. “We don’t ship kg, while a whole chapon will cheap, in reality, they hide a to Marseilles or Paris,” said Bil- set you back about €30/kg. Why slew of social and environmen- is the price of tal costs. No payments are made these chickens for the tolls exacted by ground- so much more water pollution or the spread of than their avian flu. In contrast, the Bresse conventional chicken more accurately reflects counterparts? the true cost of raising a chicken The flavor of in a healthy, sustainable man- the meat is ner. Billet concluded, “These certainly bet- chickens don’t live in the same ter, but is it world at all.” really worth Eating sustainably farmed meat the stagger- does inflict a much harder hit ing price pre- on your wallet though, which mium? Is this means you cannot feast on meat not simply an every night. “But isn’t it better to elitist luxury eat better chicken once in a while product that than bad chicken all the time?” is out of the Billet asked. reach of most working-class The answer to that question families? will help decide the future of food around the world. Stroking his chin, Billet For more information on the pur- stepped back chase of Bresse chicken or dining at for a moment the restaurant at Ferme Auberge du to consider Poirier, please see www.fermeau- his business. bergedupoirier.fr. The farm exports “When I start- poultry internationally during ed this farm, Christmas season, and the restau- Top: roasted Bresse chicken atop a purée of potatoes I wanted to rant is open for business on week- Bottom: some of Ferme Auberge du Poirier’s many awards show that ends or by group request. ■