WHERE TO LIVE Saône-et-Loire s you drive through the south of Burgundy, Saône-et-Loire’s varied landscape unfolds with vast panoramas of rugged Amountains, dense woods, lush pastures and undulating vineyards that seamlessly intermingle with pleasant waterways. The department is divided into five natural regions offering plenty of breathing space to both relax and invigorate. You can whizz through more than 800 kilometres of marked mountain bike trails one day and discover the countryside on a gentle cruise through the Canal du Centre the next. Culture also abounds in this fascinating part of France with towns that are steeped in history and architectural heritage. But that’s not all. Amid this abundant splendour, some of the country’s most famous gastronomic delights can be savoured with modestly priced wines ranging from elegant whites to rustic reds. This is the France many dream of, visit and never want to leave. The greaT ouTdoors In the north-west corner of Saône-et-Loire, the Parc Naturel Régional du Morvan is Pure & a green oasis of forests, farmlands and lakes that beckons outdoor enthusiasts to explore nature in myriad ways. Established in 1970, the nature reserve is not only the perfect place to hike, horseback ride, mountain bike, kayak and canoe, but it is also home to lots of towns and villages simple where time has stood still. Good food and wine, outdoor pursuits and quaint “Many Dutch and English people vineyard villages make it easy to feel drawn to have purchased property in the Morvan Saône-et-Loire, as Paola Westbeek disovers as the prices are extremely affordable,” says Benjamin Haas, an estate agent at Saône-et-Loire At A glAnce Case study 28 An expat tells her story Property insight 29 Property in Saône-et-Loire On the market 30 A round-up of homes for sale Fact file 32 Useful info and contacts 22 Living France May 2018 completefrance.com completefrance.com May 2018 Living France 23 WHERE TO LIVE Saône-et-Loire France4u. His company has been helping corner of Place de la Tour Rouge, named Food For ThoughT expats find the perfect home in the after the tower on the opposite side of To the far east, the wide plains of the department for the past 17 years. “If you the street (its roof is crowned with red Bresse area are intersected by rivers and venture into the Morvan because you tiles dating to the 15th century and the streams. Half-timbered houses and old like nature, and don’t mind being a little tower itself was once part of the village’s watermills dot the countryside as the further away from bakeries and shops, 12th-century fortifications). In light of this, ‘Gauloise de Bresse’ roam freely in search you can find a house with a garden and if there’s one piece of advice Benjamin of tasty insects and worms. Though the views for approximately €100,000, or even gives clients who are looking to settle noble fowl was granted AOC (appellation less for a second home in a more isolated down in this part of France, it’s to learn d’origine contrôlée) certification in 1957, area,” he adds. the language. “This is not a tourism area it has tempted gourmets since Roman Autun, founded in the first century where foreigners are a source of income times. Among them, Henri IV who was BC by Roman Emperor Augustus, is the such as Dordogne or the Côte d’Azur,” he so impressed with their flavour that he beating heart of Morvan. The provincial explains. “If you have a basic knowledge promised everyone ‘poule au pot’ every town’s amphitheatre (once the largest of French, neighbours will open up to you Sunday, and Brillat-Savarin who referred to in the Roman world) and its two ancient and welcome you with open arms.” them as “la reine des volailles et volaille des gateways (the Porte d’Arroux and the Buxy is just one of the many peaceful rois” (the queen of poultry and the poultry Porte St-André, dating back to the first and wine villages in Côte Chalonnaise, a of kings) in his famous book, Physiologie fourth century respectively) still attest to viticultural region named after Chalon- du goût (1825). In fact, Bresse poultry its Gallo-Roman roots. There, you can visit sur-Saône, the department’s largest city. is regarded by the French as the fourth the 12th-century Cathédrale St-Lazare, Though in Burgundy the limelight shines gastronomic world wonder. famous for its magnificent sculptures and brightest on the prestigious Côte-d’Or to On Monday mornings, Louhans, the tympanum, or Musée Rolin where you can the north (often referred to as ‘Golden capital of Bresse poultry, boasts one of the admire a variety of artefacts, sculptures Slope’), this region produces similar wines region’s must-see markets dating to the and beautifully preserved mosaics. that are significantly more affordable. 13th century. Part of the market is held And when lunchtime rolls around, Just as in Côte-d’Or, the main grape along the 400-metre Grande Rue, which there’s no better place to enjoy cocotte varieties are pinot noir (for reds) and counts 157 medieval arches and is the d’escargots (snails in garlic cream sauce) chardonnay (for whites). Driving through longest arcaded street in France, but the and a carafe of wine than at Brasserie du the Route des Grands Vins with its most impressive part is the poultry market Commerce, located on the corner of Rue sweeping vistas of neatly planted vines on Champ de Foire. Here, you will not only above: A spherical fountain takes de Champ de Mars. will lead you to the five appellations, from pride of place in St-Vincent square in find Bresse poultry, but also livestock such north to south: Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Chalon-sur-Saône as ducks, geese, rabbits and goats. Village liFe Givry and Montagny. It is late Thursday morning in mid-August A more relaxed way to discover the Below: Musée Nicéphore Niépce arT de ViVre and at the Grande Rue in Buxy market department, however, is by following the celebrates Chalon’s most famous Continuing to the south-west, the citizen – Joseph Nicéphore Niépce - stalls display dewy courgettes, smooth- Voies Vertes’ 74 kilometres of smooth who is credited with the invention of Mâconnais-Clunois awaits with gentle hills, skinned tomatoes and strawberries that cycling paths which stretch from Chalon- photography in 1827 dramatic cliffs and yet another exciting lure you with their scent. One stall is sur-Saône in the north to Charnay-lès- MAke A tradItionAl wine district. Those who love buttery stacked with dense loaves of freshly baked Mâcon in the south. The concept of a buRgundy dIsh chardonnays have certainly come to the gingerbread (pain d’épices, a regional car-free recreational path originated in Turn to page 62 for a recipe for right place as the grape accounts for 80% speciality) and others offer charcuterie, Saône-et-Loire in 1997 and since then Escargots à la Bourguignonne of the production in this region. Pouilly- cheeses, honey and flowers. A typical has gained popularity throughout the Fuissé is the most renowned appellation French market scene, you would think, country. Don’t forget to stop and admire and produces fruity whites with hints of until you notice there’s something missing: the majestic 12th-century Château de Rully toast, oak and honey. But it wasn’t just crowds. Though it’s tourist season, it is and the Hôtel de Ville in Givry, one of ice de the wines that attracted London couple mostly locals who are filling their baskets France’s most beautiful town halls dating Off Nick and Rebecca Harman to start a new ickr; or gathering for kirs at the café on the to the second half of the 18th century. fl life here. They moved to Saône-et-Loire in August 2004, knowing they would earn their living in hospitality. “We love the area’s diversity,” says Rebecca. “We sizmadia atrick, morio60, c p have hills and vines, rivers and beautiful niko e ; L countryside. There are numerous chateâux Cathédrale st-Vincent in Chalon-sur-saône and abbeys dating from the 10th to the 18th century.” One of those abbeys is the Benedictine Abbaye de Cluny, a remarkable MORe example of Romanesque architecture aône; bernard brede s which was founded in 910 and became ONLINE Europe’s largest monastic empire by the on-sur- read our complete guide to the L ha end of the 11th century. Though most of the Burgundy-Franche-Comté region c abbey was torn down during the French completefrance.com/regions-of-france The market at Buxy Revolution, what is still left gives a good ourisme de opening pages © nevskyphoto/thinkstock; these pages: t impression of how it looked in its heyday. 24 Living France May 2018 completefrance.com completefrance.com May 2018 Living France 25 WHERE TO LIVE Saône-et-Loire 5 ReAsOns tO lIve In Saône-et-Loire The department is not an obvious choice among British expats so you can enjoy getting to know your French voisins rather than fellow Brits. With good TgV links and lyon airport close by, you’re never really too far from anywhere above: Cruising the Canal in Saône-et-Loire; perfect for du Centre exploring the rest of France right: Tournus on the banks of the Saône or going back to the UK. Below: Making a splash in Burgundy is world renowned the Morvan for its food and drink so expect to wine and dine like a king and queen.