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Harvard Mountaineering 30 HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING Number 30 JANUARY • 2 0 1 9 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING NUMBER 30 JANUARY, 2 0 1 9 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS. Photo, Peter McCarthy To those who came before us and turned this affair of the soul into the best damned HMC we could imagine, and in whose steps we hope to follow. Photo, Paul Moorcroft In Memoriam Photo, David Linnett Nick Russell August 28th, 1992 - August 31, 2016 5 Photo, Palatino Family Landen Palatino December 30, 2007 - August 27, 2017 6 Photo, Jacob Raab Matthew T. Reed February 11, 1991 - October 11, 2017 7 Club Officers 2013 - 2014 2016 - 2017 President: EMILY BURKE President: RORY BROWN Vice President: DAN BRADLEY Vice President: ALEX FIshER Secretary: NATE HERMAN Treasurer: NIchOLAS JOSEph Treasurer: HEnnEY SULLIVAN Cabin Liaison: BRIAnnA BESWICK Cabin Liaison: GRAM SLATTERY Librarian: ALAR AINLA Librarian: ADRIAN PFORZHEIMER Gear Tsar: VLADISLAV SEVOSTIANOV Gear Tsar: DAVID HU Wall Liaison: WILLIAM BLOXHAM AARON MARKOWITZ Wall Liaison: CLAIRE STOLZ 2017 - 2018 President: RORY BROWN 2014-2015 Vice President: VLADISLAV SEVOSTIANOV President: HEnnEY SULLIVAN Treasurer: JOEY BALDWIN Vice President: CLAIRE STOLZ Cabin Liaison: BRIAnnA BESWICK Secretary: NATE HERMAN Librarian: MINA MITREVA Treasurer: AARON MARKOWITZ Gear Tsar: KAYLA HOLLIngsWORTH Cabin Liaison: GRAM SLATTERY OLENKA JAIN Librarian: DAVID HU Wall Liaison: ELIJAH FRYDMAN Gear Tsar: RAJKO RADOVANOVIC WILLIAM BLOXHAM 2018 - 2019 (Current) NIchOLAS JOSEph President: VLADISLAV SEVOSTIANOV Wall Liaison: CAROLYN GIGOT Vice President: ELIJAH FRYDMAN Secretary: GEnnIE WEILER 2015 - 2016 Treasurer: KAMI KRISTA President: NIchOLAS JOSEph Cabin Treasurer: ELIssA TAYLOR RAJKO RADOVANOVIC Cabin Liaison: KAYLA HOLLIngsWORTH Vice President: CLAIRE STOLZ Gear Tsar: LIncOLN CRAVEN-BRIghTMAN Treasurer: ALEX FIshER KYLE SUTTON Cabin Liaison: CHRISTOphER HELLER Graduate Liaison: DOMINIK WILD Librarian: LOUISE HIndAL Journal Editor: KAMI KRISTA Gear Tsar: RORY BROWN DANIEL BRIdgEWATER FACULTY ADVISORS Wall Liaison: WILLIAM BLOXHAM PROF. PAUL MOORCROFT Copies of this and previous issues of HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING are available on request for $10.00 each from the Harvard Mountaineering Club; #73 SOCH; 59 Shepard st; Cambridge, Massachusetts 02138, USA Introduction Mountaineers, I’m so happy to say that we finally got this journal published. Journals are typically published every two years, and it’s been six. So much has hap- pened over the past few years--including things that happened before I was even at Harvard--that it’s difficult to properly present everything in this edition. I apologize in advance if we’ve missed something or did not give proper weight to certain trips or events. With a young climbing member base that is incredibly enthusiastic and passionate about climbing, I’m cer- tain the next journal will come sooner. With Harvard’s house renewal project the HMC lost our climbing wall in Lowell house, but through support of the university a professionally built wall was created at the QRAC double in size, giving more bouldering op- tions to the Harvard community than ever before. We’ve ambitiously grown our gear collection to make nearly all forms of outdoor recreation as acces- sible as possible, and continue to lower the barriers to entering the climbing world. Renovations are bittersweet though, as we’ll be losing our home of the past 50 years. With renewal affecting Adams house, the HMC will no longer have our cherished room in Clavelry hall. We’re still working out the details of where the HMC will be, but we shall always remain the community of climbers and adventures we’ve been since 1924, and our books, artifacts, gear, and random cool junk will be with us. Then HMC continues to host so many fantastic speakers and events, and our annual banquet will be in February of 2019--we hope to see you there. The HMC continues to climb all over the world, as well more locally around Boston, New Hampshire, and New York, and I can’t express enough grati- tude to everyone who’s gotten us to where we are. I hope you enjoy the journal. Vladislav Sevostianov ‘19 HMC President 18-19’ Kami Krista ‘21 HMC Treasurer and Editor in Chief 18-19’ Contents HMC SUMMER GRANT 2018: A SCRAMBLE IN THE CAscADES Walter Martin 12 A QUICK STOP IN THE TETOns Vladislav Sevostianov 16 ICELAnd, MARch 2018 Kyle Sutton 20 A LUCKY BREAKFAST Vladislav Sevostianov 25 HMC SUMMER GRANT 2014: BOSTON BASIN William Bloxham 29 HMC ALASKA RAngE EXPEDITION 2012 David Leonard 37 STORMED OFF BEUggUYA Peter McCarthy 50 CLIMBIng MERRIAM PEAK Athena Jiang 60 A THOUSAnd And ONE JOYS IN THE WInds Emily Alana Burke 63 SUnshINE CRACK Kedron Silsbee and Lauren Onofrey 66 HISTORY REPEATS ITSELF Mark van Baalen 69 THE WICKERshAM FIFTY YEARS LATER David Roberts 72 SETTIng THE WOMEN’S SPEED RECORD ON ACOncAGUA Sunny Stroer 77 THREE ATTEMPTS Josh Zargosky 83 STAY IN TOUch: REFLECTIng ON FOUR YEARS WITH THE HMC Rory Brown 87 IF Adrian Pforzheimer 90 MAXIMAL MEMORIES Mark Thompson 91 HMC CABIN TRIP REPORT FRIDAY MARch 9 - SUndAY MARch 11 2018 Paul Moorcroft 98 OBITUARY: LAndEN PALATINO Brianna Beswick 102 OBITUARY: MATTHEW T. REED Brianna Beswick 104 OBITUARY: NICK RUssELL Eugene E. Kwan 106 TRIBUTE TO NICK RUssELL Eugene E. Kwan 109 WHY WE CLIMB Shahir Masri 126 CABIN REPORT 128 CLUB ACTIVITIES 130 MEMBERshIP 131 A Scramble in the Cascades by WALTER MARTIN ESPITE the communication difficulties encountered when trying to Dmake the “shared adventure” model happen in areas without cell service, my personal experience of this summer’s Cascades trip was fantas- tic. The original plan was that a large group would meet at Rainier to take advantage of the permit the club had secured; that didn’t work out, but Carson Denison, Lincon Craven-Brightman, and I were willing to still spend some time on the mountain so we headed that way from SeaTac. We spent the night probably illegally in the woods about 10 minutes below the Para- dise Visitor Center, in a spot that turned out to give a beautiful dawn view of Rainier over a lake the next morning. We checked in with rangers in the morning and confirmed our decision not to try to summit; none of us had a lot of experience with real mountaineering, and conditions in August aren’t ideal on Rainier. Instead, the plan switched to hiking up to Camp Muir, stay- ing overnight, and heading down early the next morning. While not strictly necessary, we took crampons and ice axes up, which let us get some prac- tice with self-arresting. Camp Muir itself was relatively uncrowded, so we were able to enjoy sunset and sunrise mostly by ourselves, the night in be- tween punctuated by rock and ice falls up the mountain. Going up Mt. Shuksan Photo, Walter Martin 12 13 After a glissade-filled descent, we drove to Index, a small town in the Gold Bar area. It turns out that they have a beautiful climbers’ camp by a river there, and it’s absolutely free. The climbing available is mostly trad, and is still unvisited enough that to date, route names are still a mess of vulgar inside jokes. We didn’t send particularly hard on the cliffs, but had a great time in the river. We were still struggling to get in contact with the rest of the group, but finally managed to get enough of a plan together that we could commit to driving back to Seattle to meet up with everyone else in the evening. From this point, Carson had to head back to Oregon, but Lincoln and I joined up with Blox, Dom, Elana, and Vlad. It took us until noon the next day, but we eventually decided to attempt Mt. Shuksan, a glaciated peak near Baker. With the time it took to stock up on food, get a permit, and get organized, it was borderline evening when we started up. It was a standard Cascadian approach, fairly steep switchbacks through the woods. Eventu- ally things opened up into alpine meadows rising up to Shuskan’s western ridge; from there, we made our way through scrabbly rock and snowfields onto the Sulphide Glacier. We didn’t know exactly where we were headed, but luckily could see a group up on a higher ridge which turned out to be a NOLS party staying there for a week. It was around 8 by the time we got to them, so we got straight to work on putting up tents and making dinner. After a few hours of sleep, we were up again, getting gear on and tying into rope teams. It was a beautiful night, filled with stars, though not bright enough to forgo headlamp light. There was a pretty clear path straight up the glacier, but it was steep enough that we were switchbacking and occa- sionally detouring around suspect crevasses, so going was slow. Eventually as things got lighter, we could see the silhouette of the peak, and then Baker started to become visible off to our side. Looking to our west, the dawn was exquisite; to our south, it revealed some pretty threatening storm clouds occasionally brightened by lightning. Needless to say, we weren’t thrilled about that, but the wind was in our favor, so group consensus was to keep Above: Vlad, Elana, and Dom on the summit of Sahale Photo, Vladislav Sevostianov Below: From left to right, Vlad, Carlo, Paul, David, and Charlie on the summit of Rainier after climbing the Kautz glacier. Photo, Nick Hoernle 14 going and make sure we were paying attention to them. The wind held, and we reached the snow-free summit crag without issue. In theory, the route we planned to take up was class IV, but with wet rock and a lot of exposure, ropes were set for members of the group who didn’t feel good about scrambling.
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