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SPECIAL DELIVERY ISLAND ON OKINAWA PAGE 2 Another of Okinawa’s ‘Islands of God’ Pages 4-5

WHAT IS JAPAN’S THANKSGIVING? PAGE 3

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pullout inside! Photo courtesy of Grand Sumo Tournament Okinawa Planning Committee 2 STRIPES OKINAWA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION NOVEMBER 14 − NOVEMBER 20, 2019 SPECIAL DELIVERY Max D. Lederer Jr. USO Pacific showers moms with love Publisher Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic BY MARCIE SMITH WEST, Commander USO PACIFIC AN’S THA Joshua M Lashbrook JAP NKS Chief of Staff T IS GIV hile military moms are A I Chris Verigan H NG Engagement Director used to being away W ? Marie Woods from their support sys- Publishing and Media Design Director W tem, families in Guam, Japan, Chris Carlson Publishing and Media Design Manager and South Korea face a unique Eric Lee set of challenges. In some cases, Advertising and Circulation Manager that support system may be on Scott Wheeler a completely opposite schedule. Okinawa Area Manager Modern technology allows for Kentaro Shimura calls around the globe but cannot Production Manager compensate for the time differ- Rie Miyoshi Engagement Manager ence. Special Delivery exists to help military moms Denisse Rauda Heidi Murkoff, the author of connect. At every stop in the tour, moms shared Publishing and Media Design Editor the “What to Expect when you phone numbers and answered questions for one Publishing and Media Design Writers are Expecting” series was ap- another during the question and answers sessions ChiHon Kim proached to see if she would do- with Heidi. The partnership between the USO, What Shoji Kudaka to Expect, and Target provides a unique opportunity Takahiro Takiguchi nate copies of her book for a baby Kerri Needle, Heidi and Erik Murkoff celebrate military moms for families in the Pacific. In 2019, USO Pacific Areas Layout Designers shower in the States and decided at the first Special Delivery in 2013 on Okinawa. delivered a total of eight mom showers, four dad Yukiyo Oda showers, and four reunions during the tour. Over Yuko Okazaki to deliver the books in person. Photo courtesy of USO Pacific Kayoko Shimoda “The Murkoffs had so much fun 621 moms, 88 dads, and 155 family members participated in this year’s programs. To learn more Multimedia Consultants that they wanted to make this a about programs in the Pacific, visit: pacific.uso.org Max Genao Doug Johnson regular thing and met with the Brian Jones Jason Lee Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi DoD, who recommend they part- the same stage of life. Since then, tour headed to Guam and MCAS military dads and other co par- Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman ner with the USO. In consulation the Special Delivery Tour has Iwakuni on mainland Japan af- ents to be.” For the first time in Graphic Designers with the Department of Defense, traveled annually throughout ter. Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji the program, the wives of two three locations were chosen for the USO Indo-Pacific Region en- The tour then went on to Yo- Sales Support pregnant moms attended the dad Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa the first showers: Fort Carson gaging Moms in Hawaii, Guam, kota Air Base where a new team Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro Colorado, Fort Campbell Ken- Japan, Okinawa and Korea. The at the USO was ready for the shower. Yusuke Sato Chae Yon Son With the growth at Camp Saori Tamanaha Toshie Yoshimizu tucky, and Okinawa, Japan. 2019 Pacific tour was no excep- year’s third Mom Shower. Special Deivery held its inau- tion. The Murkoffs left mainland Humphreys and the opening of gural overseas shower in 2013 In September, USO Hawaii Japan just in time to miss Su- the new hospital, it only made For feedback and inquiries, on Kadena Air Base. The goal of was the first to host Heidi and per Typhoon Hagibis and return contact [email protected] sense to host the last mom show- the program has been the same the Special Delivery Tour at to where the program began in er with the team at USO Hum- To place an ad, call DSN 645-7419 since its inception seven years Schofield Barracks and Marine Okinawa. The Dad Shower has stripesokinawa.com/contact ago: to connect moms to others at Corps Base Hawaii. Then the always been promoted as “for phreys in South Korea. NOVEMBER 14 − NOVEMBER 20, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES OKINAWA 3

AT IS JAPAN’S THANKSGIVIN H In Japan, it’s not quite as fes- G WBY HASHI, ? tive, but still very much a nation- TOFUGU.COM some heated conversations with al holiday. Most businesses are your relatives during Thanks- HOW IS JAPANESE still open on Labor Thanksgiving K, obviously Japan THANKSGIVING Day, but government services giving in the US (will some- doesn’t celebrate the are closed down. There are little body tell my same Thanksgiving that THE SAME? O celebrations all over the country, uncle that the we do in America; America’s but none with the spectacle of election is Thanksgiving is a cornucopia- the celebrations in the US. over?!), it’s filled holiday with a lot of tradi- generally tions unique to the good ol’ US BEING THANKFUL Both American and Japanese a pretty of A. Thanksgiving days obviously, fo- – but in Japan, it’s a lot more spe- apolitical But even though Japan doesn’t cus on giving thanks. In America, cific. holiday. It’s have Thanksgiving the same way it’s more about giving thanks in In Japan, Labor Thanksgiving pretty hard we understand it in the US, Japan HOW IS JAPANESE an abstract sense – giving thanks Day is about being thankful for to politicize big still has a Thanksgiving holiday THANKSGIVING for the things that have happened workers who do their job and do meals and families right around the same time. It’s to you, the people in your life, etc. it well. Sometimes you literally DIFFERENT? getting together. called kinrōkanshahi, or Labor thank those people — school kids Now Labor Thanksgiving Thanksgiving Day, and it’s a na- sometimes make thank you cards tional holiday. Day isn’t an explicitly politi- and gifts for municipal workers It has the same roots as cal holiday, but it definitely has like police, firefighters, and hos- Thanksgiving here in the US – it NO TURKEY political implications. Labor or- pital workers. was once a fall harvest festival, Sorry Japanese people, but ganizations across the country but has since changed in mean- you don’t get enormous, heart- take the opportunity ing. Nowadays, Labor Thanksgiv- NATIONAL HOLIDAY attack inducing feasts to have a conversa- ing Day is a holiday celebrating In both countries, Thanksgiv- the way us Americans TOFUGU.COM tion about the accom- workers in Japan. ing Day is a national holiday. In do. On the plus side, plishments of the labor move- How can you compare Ameri- the US, the president “pardons” turkeys needn’t fear the an- ment, workers’ rights, etc. can Thanksgiving Day and Japa- a turkey, there’s a huge parade in nual genocide they face here in So whether you’re celebrat- nese Labor Thanksgiving Day? New York City, a lot of businesses the US. ing Thanksgiving Day in the US What’s the same and what’s dif- are closed, and government ser- POLITICAL HOLIDAY or Labor Thanksgiving Day in ferent? Let’s take a look: File photos vices are mostly shut down. While you might get into Japan, have a good holiday!

Stripes Okinawa is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. This newspaper is authorized locations where overseas DOD personnel are located. The appearance of advertising in for publication by the Department of Defense for members of the military services overseas. this publication, including inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement of However, the contents of Stripes Okinawa are unofficial, and are not to be considered as the those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and Stripes. Products or services official views of, or endorsed by, the U.S. government, including the Department of Defense advertised in this publication shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes Okinawa may be distributed without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, marital status, physical through official channels and use appropriated funds for distribution to remote and isolated handicap, political affiliation, or any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. 4 STRIPES OKINAWA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION NOVEMBER 14 − NOVEMBER 20, 2019

KUDAKA ISLAND Another of Okinawa’s ‘Islands of God’

STORY AND PHOTOS BY SHOJI KUDAKA, STRIPES OKINAWA Upuratu n Okinawa, sacred sites can be found on many of its 160 islands. Each remote island likely has its own I set of legends and mythology attached, while fur- ther stretching the concept of “Islands of Gods.” Kudaka Island, about three miles off the southeast- ern coast of the main island, is one of these places re- vered for its sacredness and untouched landscape. To be precise, it is recognized as the most sacred among all the islands. You may have noticed this small island in the dis- tance while visiting Sefa Utaki, a prominnt sacred site on the main land. Kudaka Island spreads over 336 acres and is a mere 5 miles in circumference, but it draws many people searching for peace and spirituality. Visitors board daily ferries from Azama Port to reach this destination known for its beautiful nature and unique cul- tural heritage. Kudaka Island is home to many ar- eas where traditional rituals took place throughout history. Such traditions carry on today, and some of these locations are no longer open to the pub- lic. Despite this, the island is a great des- tination away to see Visitors will find the roads along the coastlines per- untouched beaches, fect for smooth bike rides and the landscapes on all of forests and learn about Kudaka Island’s coasts and sections to be breathtaking. customs of the Okinawa of Among the beaches here, Ishiki Hama is perhaps the yesteryear. most famous. Upon arrival at the port on Reach Ishiki Hama by heading 15 minutes north- Kudaka Island’s southern coast, east by bike from the port. This sandy shore dotted visitors rent bikes to enjoy the is- with shrubbery and interesting rocks also offers a look land’s terrain and take in the pleas- at rock reefs during the low tide, making for a colorful ant climate. The southern section of sight. According to Yasuo Higa, a photographer who is the island is made up of mostly residential known for his work on Kudaka Island, the reef spreads homes and old historic buildings lined up along somewhere close to 1,000 feet from the shore. maze-like streets. Head toward the mid and north- This beach is also highly regarded because according ern parts of the island to take in the pristine beaches and to legend agriculture originated here. It is said that a untamed forests. pot containing grains from a utopia called “Nirai Kanai” NOVEMBER 14 − NOVEMBER 20, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES OKINAWA 5

Cape Kaberu Ishiki Hama

KUDAKA ISLAND Fukama-dun Another of Okinawa’s ‘Islands of God’ A smokehouse near Kudaka-dun

responsible for conducting the rituals for the gods. The last Izaiho was held in 1978, but the custom has since been discontinued due to the lack of members to carry it on. The site itself is not accessible to the public now, but learn more about its history at the informa- tion board nearby. From there, heading south through the intricate streets may present a challenge to navigate, but there are two spots to check out: Kudaka-dun and Fukama-dun. These two sites for rituals are affiliated with two lines of priestesses and two of the oldest present. families on the island. Kudaka-dun is comprised of two One of the old customs still partially conducted here white-walled shacks with red brick roofs, where Shi- is fuso, or aerial burial. This type of burial is a form rataru, the earliest islander, is said to have prayed for of entombment allowing the deceased to return to the the island’s prosperity. On the premises, you’ll find a hut earth through exposure to rain and wind, according to for smoking sea snake meat. The interior is not visible Yuji Uchima, a local tour guide. but go around back and check out the caged sea crea- Sea snakes, which were thought to be gifts from God tures awaiting their fate. Note that the forest area be- hind Kudaka-dun is off-limits. and highly valued during the time of the kingdom, are Next, head to Fukama-dun, only a few minutes’ walk allowed to be captured only by a select few. Another away. This has a similar structure to Kudaka-dun but tradition involves capturing the sea snake with bare one of its shacks was where the kings of the Ryukyu hands. Kingdom would be seated for ceremonies. This site still According to Uchima, islanders think the island it- remains at the center of many rituals on the island and self is borrowed from the gods, thus land should not be entry into the shacks is prohibited. owned by humans. This probably explains why there Visitors will find the roads along the coastlines per- washed up on Ishiki Hama’s shores. During the Ryukyu Upuratu is another site associated with one of the are no supermarkets or convenience stores on Kudaka fect for smooth bike rides and the landscapes on all of Kingdom (1429-1879), white sands were brought across oldest families. Located near Kudaka-dun and Fuka- Island, only small stores in the south. It is also prohib- Kudaka Island’s coasts and sections to be breathtaking. the water from Ishiki Hama to blanket Sefa Utaki dur- ma-dun, this traditional house is believed to be a place ited to remove any of the islands natural resources in- Among the beaches here, Ishiki Hama is perhaps the ing rituals held there. Kings and priestesses also visited where King Shotoku, the 7th king of the first dynasty of cluding rocks, sand, coral, plants and coconut crabs. most famous. the beach for rituals. the Ryukyu Kingdom, had a rendezvous with a young This island is not a typical touristy destination and Reach Ishiki Hama by heading 15 minutes north- Next, head to Cape Kaberu, another sacred site where woman, which would eventually lead to the dynasty’s it doesn’t treat itself as such. “We don’t promote the is- east by bike from the port. This sandy shore dotted Amamikiyo, a god, is said to have landed and started downfall in 1469. land as a tourism spot,” explained Uchima. The island’s with shrubbery and interesting rocks also offers a look building Ryukyu. The white color of the road leading Upuchinguchi, or Chimintumai, attests to a history untouched nature and serenity are a product of the way at rock reefs during the low tide, making for a colorful there is a stark contrast to the surrounding lush green long before the times of the Ryukyu Kingdom. This sight. According to Yasuo Higa, a photographer who is plants and blue sky. site near the south port, was a shell mound dating back it is cared for by locals and visitors alike. known for his work on Kudaka Island, the reef spreads From there, head southward through the midland around 5,000 years, according to the Okinawa Prefec- Touring on Kudaka Island requires attention to man- somewhere close to 1,000 feet from the shore. for about 20 minutes to reach Kubo/Fubo Utaki. Here tural government. ners and the rules of the island, and when you’re there, This beach is also highly regarded because according amongst the forest thick with Chinese fan palm trees, Although some of the traditions of Kudaka Island you’ll see why this corner of paradise remains pre- to legend agriculture originated here. It is said that a only women were allowed to set foot and participate in are no longer practiced, the location itself is a unique served for future generations. pot containing grains from a utopia called “Nirai Kanai” an Izaiho induction ceremony for a circle of members place to remind visitors of Okinawa’s spiritual past and [email protected] 6 STRIPES OKINAWA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION NOVEMBER 14 − NOVEMBER 20, 2019

BY SHOJI KUDAKA, Grand Sumo (Exhibition) for starting their day early in STRIPES OKINAWA Tournament the morning. This applies to their tour in Okinawa as well. DATE: Dec. 14 – 15 he Grand Sumo Exhibi- Starting 9 a.m., the public tion Match, or Oozumou TIME: 9 a.m. – 3 p.m. LOCATION: Uruma City Gushikawa can get a peek into early train- Okinawa Basho, is set to T Dome ing sessions. There will also be make its way back to Okinawa GPS COORDINATES: N 26.360001, plenty of chankonabe, known as for a stop on the 2019 Winter E 127.866838 sumo stew, famous for feeding Tour Dec. 14-15. n Tickets available at MCCS Okinawa: https://www.mccsokinawa.com/mccsoki2015/_sub2015.1.0.aspx?cid=4294978936&pglot=-1 hulking sumo wrestlers, on sale Amongst the wrestlers sched- from vendors at the venue. uled to compete are many high- Ticket price (in order of the nearest seats to the ring to the farthest): Don’t miss the opportunity to Tickets on saleTamari SSfor ($133), Tamari Dec. S ($124), Pair Masu 14-15 seat ($210), Chair seat Okinawa A ($76), and Table Seat Max 4 ($238). sumo tourney ranking ones like Yokozuna and Souvenir Package with a bento meal, a drink, and sumo goods- $48 for Yokozuna, $29 for Ozeki interact with the wrestlers. Un- Oozeki. For more info, contact MCCS Tours+ at 646-3502 like regular tournaments where Although this may be an ex- wrestlers find themselves in a hibition event, this circuit is ring several times a day until Yumitorishiki, a victory dance tense feeling, this fan-friendly designed to offer both authentic it comes down to the last man with a bow, will be performed to event which allows for chat- and entertaining presentations standing. make this just as much a compe- ting and taking photos with the of the old martial art. And, one crowd. Prior to the bouts, catch vari- tition as a cultural presentation. of the biggest features is expect- If you’ve yet to check out ous ceremonies like the Sumo Keep an eye out for “shokir- ed to be a knockout tournament. one of Japan’s traditional mar- Jinku, a folksong dedicated ri,” a unique feature of this cir- While regular tournaments, tial arts, make sure to get to held six times per year, apply a to sumo wrestling, and Yoko- cuit which allows wrestlers to the Grand Sumo Tournament system similar to round-robin zuna Dohyou Iri, which is Yo- play dirty in a similar manner Okinawa and enjoy this unique where wrestlers enter the ring kozuna’s entrance to the ring of heels in professional wres- experience you can only experi- once a day, this two-day contest accompanied by two wrestlers tling. ence here. will bring winners back to the as attendants. After the bouts, Sumo wrestlers are famous [email protected] NOVEMBER 14 − NOVEMBER 20, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES OKINAWA 7

The NHL has seen 4 teams come back to advance after facing a 3-games-to-none deficit in a playoff series. In MLB, this has only occurred once – Boston in 2003. And the feat has never happened in the NBA. The last team to do it in the NHL did so in 2014 – Who made the improbable comeback

against an in-state rival? Los Angeles Kings Angeles Los Stripes Sports Trivia

Answer Week of 11/11/19 - 11/17/19

The Weekly Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 "No ___ luck!" 1 14 15 16 5 Concoct, as a plan 17 18 19 10 Scoundrels 20 21 22 14 The Bee Gees, e.g. 23 24 25 15 Lincoln Center DID YOU offering 26 27 28 29 30 16 Kind of thermo- 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 KNOW? meter 17 RSS reader, for 38 39 40 41 one 42 43 44 45 19 Low card in ried bonito, along with dried kelp, pinochle 46 47 48 49

is an indispensable ingredient in 20 Long (for) 50 51 52 53 54 miso and broths for various 21 Enchant Dtypes of noodles. They can both also 23 Way past ripe 55 56 57 58 59 60 25 Bowling lane 61 62 63 be used as a topping for dishes like button okonomiyaki, or even pizza and 26 After-dinner 64 65 66 pasta. Traditionally, dried bonito is wine 67 68 69 made through a complicated process 28 Brownish hue that includes simmering, smoking, 31 1973 film, "Live Copyright 2019 by The Puzzle Syndicate sun-drying and fermenting which takes and ___ Die" more than a month. 32 Pencil part DOWN 30 Bring up, as a 47 Coffee holder 34 Pretzel topping 1 Command to subject 49 "Flashdance" hit 38 Quaker product Rover 33 Oscar winner 50 Lacking zest 40 Hanging-basket 2 Goad Guinness 51 Linda Lavin role flower 3 Camel, e.g. 35 Able to be 52 Mountain climb- 42 "Not guilty", e.g. 4 Stephen King's transferred ing spike 43 Bees collect it forte 36 Car with a bar 54 Porterhouse, 45 Mischief maker 5 Harley David- 37 Memorial Day e.g. Kanji of 46 China cabinet son, slangily solo 56 S.A.T. section 48 Hitchcock made 6 Quickly 39 Furniture wood 57 Light beige the week (Shallow) many 7 Rusty nail 41 Orthodontist's 59 Tartan sporters Asai浅 or Sen 50 Contrail's danger offering 60 Circus structure makeup 8 Corn or wheat, 44 1957 Mathis hit, 63 Pig's digs 53 Refuse e.g. "_____ Are" receptacle 9 "B.C." creator Language Lesson 55 Service station 10 Shoe company Answers to Last Week’s Crossword: job acquired by Nike F A D E S A L M S L A N E 58 Make into law in 2003 I N E P T R E A P A N E W A T R I A T A R A V I V E 61 Bread for gyros 11 Met highlights T I N T Y P E S C H E M E R Don’t worry. 62 Easy to reach 12 "Divine Comedy" H O A R H E A R E R S 64 Computer author A B S E N T I A S I N screen symbol 13 Winter weather B E A T R E V T R E M O R Week of 11/11/19 - 11/17/19 65 Foot the bill 18 Menu selection E A T N O S E G A Y E V E 66 Mathematician 22 Intense anger T R E P A N R O T R E E L A D S T O I L E T R Y Turing 24 Ruthless ruler Shinpai shinaide. S P A T I A L S O A P 67 Contradict 26 Hog food P R A I R I E E N C L A V E 68 Sled dog, often 27 Be on the mend L O R E N A V E T I R E D 69 Word on a 29 Cheesy A V O N T R I G I C I N G penny sandwich T E N T S N A G C A D D Y

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke Difficulty: Medium HOW TO SOLVE: 8 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 8 5 1 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 6 4 2 contain the numbers 1 to 9. 9 3 7 Answers to Last Week’s Sudoku: 8 2 1 9 7 3 6 4 5 2 9 5 9 4 5 8 6 1 7 2 3 7 3 6 5 4 2 1 8 9 3 4 3 9 7 1 8 5 4 6 2 8 3 6 1 8 4 2 9 6 5 3 7 6 5 2 7 3 4 8 9 1 2 9 7 4 6 9 3 1 7 2 5 8 4 5 6 5 7 8 4 2 9 3 1 6 Copyright 2019 by The Puzzle Syndicate 2 1 3 6 5 8 9 7 4

8 STRIPES OKINAWA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION NOVEMBER 14 − NOVEMBER 20, 2019 A Taste

of 8-page pullout Okinawa The 3 ‘R’s to good eating – Restaurants, Reviews & Recipes

Make it a date at SAM’S! Satisfy your seafood and steak cravings at Sam’s by the Sea, the popular restaurant with a nautical- themed interior and exotic Hawaiian and Polynesian décor that was elected “Best Date Night Restaurant” in Stripes Best of the Pacific 2019. Take in the view of the ocean as you and someone special enjoy a tasty full- course dinner by candlelight. Delight your taste buds with our fresh lobster, King Crab, prawns, red snapper, mahi mahi, swordfish and oysters. And our top-quality juicy steaks will leave your mouth watering and your stomach satisfied. Our friendly staff promises to make it a memorable dinner. STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK NOVEMBER 14 – NOVEMBER 20, 2019 AST INAW A T 2 A NOURI N SH Great food with a A IN Try maki B side of fun at Hanabi’s ng y E G our Check out Hanabi’s NEW and improved menu, which o includes items like carne asada tacos with fire-roasted wn salsa. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, the french inspired dessert priferoles are the perfect way to ho end your meal. For something spicy, take a bite out of their t buffalo chicken sandwich. Hanabi’s also offers a variety of craft beers, entertainment, and events! Whether you po enjoy trivia, are a song lyric master, or want to play some t pool, there is something for you to enjoy! Hanabi’s offers delicious food with a side of fun every night of the week. a t Stop by today.

h o m

e

!

Kamisushi opens up their new location Kamisushi, Okinawa’s favorite sushi restaurant, is now conveniently located near Carnival Park Mihama. Our friendly staff awaits your arrival! You don’t have to go to the U.S. to get American sushi rolls. At Kamisushi, not only can you try traditional Japanese sushi, but you can also enjoy a variety of American sushi rolls – Cali- fornia, Dynamite and Caterpillar. Try our original Kami Rolls and Mihama Rolls by Chef Isamu Kamiya. You`ll be blown away by his sushi magic! Not a sushi eater? We also have a variety of Okinawan and Japanese dishes available to satisfy your taste buds. NOVEMBER 14 – NOVEMBER 20, 2019 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 3 A

STORY AND PHOTOS BY YUKARI SAKAMOTO, in water to get rid of the “off” aroma NOU METROPOLIS MAGAZINE before being added into the nabe. Dipping sauces can be purchased R here is something very or made at home. If you’re not feeling I comforting about sitting like the traditional ponzu, gomadare S Taround a bubbling (a creamy sesame dressing) is just as with friends and family. Often easy to find. Fun condiments like yuzu H rich with a variety of veg- kosho, a salty chili paste, can also add etables, hot pots are also another dimension to the meal. N very nourishing. A nabe Mizutaki, a chicken-based nabe, is a A I (Japanese hot pot) is popular recipe to get started with. Add N an easy meal to put B water and a piece of kombu (a variety of Try ma on the table with a kelp) into your pot, then let this simmer kin simple clean-up, g E while preparing the ingredients. Cut yo G as it is a one-pot some boneless chicken into bite-size ur meal. Some famous pieces. Cut hakusai, and momen o styles include su- (firm) tofu into similar-sized cubes. w kiyaki, shabu-shabu, Slice carrots into thin leaves. Break n or chankonabe (known down mushrooms like shimeji or shii- as the sumo wrestler’s meal). take into smaller pieces. Turn off the h These dishes can be found in res- heat on your konro, remove the kombu o taurants, but cooking nabe at home is and add the ingredients to the pot. Put t really a breeze and recently there has the lid on and boil until the chicken is even been a trend of hitori nabe (hot cooked through. While the ingredients p pot for solo diners) — so don’t let that are cooking, skim off any scum as it o hold you back from getting started. has bitter flavors. Dip the cooked veg- t Keeping in mind that there are a etables and chicken in ponzu before few guidelines but no set rules for eating. a cooking nabe, here are some ba- The broth should be well seasoned t sics to get you started. by this point. Once you’ve finished all The most essential equip- the and meat, add some pre- ment are the konro (tabletop h cooked noodles or to the soup. If butane gas stove) and hot pot. you like, scramble an egg into the hot o The size of the pot should be rice porridge. Taste and add salt if nec- m determined by the number essary. of people you are cooking Another simple hot pot is buta-kim- e for. There are many styles chi, made with thin-sliced pork belly, ! of hot pots but to get start- kimchi, kinu (soft) tofu and shimeji ed, a donabe (clay pot) is mushrooms. Finish the pot with haru- the most versatile. Do note same rice noodles. A vegetarian mush- that it needs to be sea- room hot pot could be made with tofu, soned with rice before us- a variety of mushrooms, hakusai and ing for the first time. shungiku. When you’re thinking of Once you get the hang of things you what to put in it, for pro- can get creative and make your own teins, consider: chicken, original hot pot. As mentioned, these sliced pork belly, beef, fish are your guidelines: cut proteins into (like cod or salmon) or bite-size pieces; slice harder vegeta- shellfish; ground chicken bles like carrots into thin slices; softer or pork can be formed into vegetables like hakusai can be cut into meatballs; even frozen gyo- bigger pieces. za could be your protein. There are two resourceful cookbooks For vegetables, use a wide on hot pots. Japanese Hot Pots: Com- variety including , forting One-Pot Meals by Tadashi Ono hakusai (Napa cabbage), car- and Harris Salat (Ten Speed Press) is rots, shungiku (edible chrysan- filled with classic Japanese hot pot reci- themum), komatsuna (Japanese pes. Donabe: Classic and Modern Japa- spinach), mushrooms, nese Clay Pot Cooking by Naoko Moore leeks or cabbage; and use mush- and Kyle Connaughton (Ten Speed rooms such as enoki, shiitake, and Press) includes hot pot recipes as well shimeji. Shirataki (chewy konnyaku as a plethora of recipes for cooking in noodles) add a nice texture, but check a variety of donabe pots like a smoker, the package as some need to be boiled steamer and rice pot. If you’re just getting started con- sider getting a cheaper pot and test the waters before splurging on a donabe.

Shimeji

Konro Komatsuna

Hakusai

Pork STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK NOVEMBER 14 – NOVEMBER 20, 2019 AST INAW A T 4 A The wonderful world of Japanese pickles

BY LINDA LOMBARDI, beets in the fridge that I refused to eat. Little did I know the TOFUGU.COM riches I was missing elsewhere in the world. In Japan, they’ll pickle anything that’s not moving. All hen we think of pickles in the US, it’s mostly the kinds of things are pickled in different ways, creating spear along with our sandwich or the slices on healthy side dishes that add variety to traditional meals Wa burger. When I was growing up we had two based on rice. types, sweet and sour. And maybe there were some pickled If you slet been to Japan, you may have seen a couple of TOFUGU.COM

and flavorful substances.” That sounds a little scary to me actually but it’s nothing compared to our next example….

NUKA-ZUKE – RICE BRAN PICKLES Rice bran pickles are made by laying vegetables down in a specially prepared bed of rice bran. Boiled salt water is mixed with the bran. Shio-zuke Then, similar to sourdough bread, you add some of the bed from an old batch that contains microbes to get the lactic acid fermentation process going. It must be mixed up regularly, tradition- MANY WAYS TO ally with your bare hands, to keep all the little mi- crobes growing and healthy. GET IN A PICKLE I’ve never had the privilege of getting close to Tsukemono (漬物 つけもの) is the Japanese word for pickles, derived from tsuke “soaked” one of these beds (although I’ve seen them dis- and mono “things.” You’ll see that most of the played in shops). But The Black Moon says this is Japanese names for different types end in -zuke, how you know when it’s ready: “After a week or so which is the same word as tsuke when it under- the pickling medium should have a heady aroma goes rendaku in the second part of a compound and look like damp sand.” word. Some rice bran pickling beds have been passed But “soaked” is far from the only way that down for generations. It’s an astonishing thought pickles are made. Yes, some are made in liquids in a century where everything in the supermar- AND THE REST…. like , but other methods will probably ket has an expiration date printed on it. Like salt Pickles are also made using , miso, and vinegar. surprise you. pickles, vegetables can be left in briefly or for a The most familiar to us, vinegar pickles are not usually for Nuka-zuke long time, up to several months, with different long-term storage. This is because Japanese vinegar is low SHIO-ZUKE – SALT PICKLES flavor results. in acid. I make one regularly with vinegar and a little soy The original and simplest, there are a couple of different ways of sauce and sugar. Eaten fresh it’s more like a little side salad. making salt pickles. KASU-ZUKE – LEES PICKLES Leftovers the next day are more pickle-y. In one method, the vegetables are sprinkled with salt – although the Sake lees is the solids left over after sake, which is made from rice, What’s that? You’d like to try the recipe yourself? No prob- word “sprinkled” may be misleading given how much salt is used – and is filtered. Like rice bran, instead of being discarded, people figured lem. Here it is. put in a container. They’re covered with a weight or lid that presses out how to use it to make pickles. Also cured for a variety of lengths down on them, which makes sure the salt penetrates. (Nowadays you of time from a few days to several years, they may actually be slightly Recipe for quick pickled cucumber: can buy plastic containers that come with a pickle press). The salt alcoholic. Kampai! • Use pickling cucumbers or another type with the minimum makes the water content of the vegetables seep out by osmosis, so the of seeds – they have a better texture. If you have to use a container needs regular attention to drain the liquid. KOJI-ZUKE – KOJI PICKLES regular American cuke, scoop all the seeds out. Removing the water from the concentrates the flavor, and You probably have never heard of koji, but Japanese food wouldn’t • Slice cucumber and cut slices in quarters or halves. Finely with less water, the vegetables are less susceptible to rotting. Salt pick- exist without it. It’s a microbe (let’s not call it mold, that sounds so un- shred some gingerroot. les can take varied length of time. There’s a version that you just leave appetizing!). This little one-celled friend is responsible for soy sauce, • For a large cuke, mix 1/4 c soy sauce, 1/4 c rice vinegar and overnight. Another one is measured in months. Pickled plums, for ex- miso, and sake, and it’s even been proposed that it should be called Ja- about a tablespoon of sugar. (Start there and experiment – ample, are supposed to be left in the salt for the whole rainy season. pan’s National Fungus. Koji is mixed with rice to start the fermentation you can go up to 2 T next time if you want it sweeter.) The longer the pickling time, the more intense the flavors. process that results in those fundamental products. And this koji mash • Mix it all up and refrigerate for an hour or two or three In the other method, vegetables are put in salt water in an airtight can also be used to make pickles. These are somewhat sweet because before serving. It’s also good but different the next day. container. As Kikkoman describes it, “in this environment, the enzymes koji produces amylase, an enzyme that produces sugar from the starch (Adapted from a recipe by Harumi Kurihara) in the ingredients break down the food’s components into very different in rice. NOVEMBER 14 – NOVEMBER 20, 2019 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 5 A The wonderful world of Japanese pickles beets in the fridge that I refused to eat. Little did I know the these in restaurants (That pickled with your sushi is riches I was missing elsewhere in the world. one of them). But when you get there, you’ll find all kinds In Japan, they’ll pickle anything that’s not moving. All of mysterious things on little dishes with your fancy din- kinds of things are pickled in different ways, creating ner and tucked in your convenience store bento. Come along healthy side dishes that add variety to traditional meals with Tofugu on a journey through the wonderful world of based on rice. Japanese pickles and find out what all those amazing little If you slet been to Japan, you may have seen a couple of tidbits are about. File Photos

TSUKEMONO’S LITTLE The result was a fermented product, which ONE-CELLED FRIENDS: Umeboshi is the Japa- lasted a longer time. This was considered a FERMENTATION AND MICROBES nese plum, salt-pickled gift from the gods, and with good reason. Be- Some of these methods may seem weird then dried in the sun. They fore refrigeration, and greenhouses, and fly- to us. In our culture, we think food will spoil come in a variety of sizes ing produce all around the world from places if left out of the refrigerator for five min- and different textures. where seasons are different, there weren’t a utes. How can it possibly be a good idea to They’re colored with red lot of vegetables around in the winter. Pickles put vegetables in a tub of rice bran and leave shiso (an herb) and are were the answer. They preserved spring and them there, at room temperature, sometimes intensely sour. You’ll see summer’s bounty for the cold time of year. for months? And those pots of rice bran have them in bento and inside Now we can buy all kinds of fresh produce been passed down for generations! And peo- onigiri rice balls (careful, because they still at any time of year. So they’re no longer nec- ple mix them with their bare hands! Why have the pit). They’re said to have been made essary for providing vitamins and fiber when aren’t people dying of food poisoning left and for over a thousand years, and to have an an- they’re out of season. But right? tibacterial effect that keeps the other foods developed to include them, so a traditional Because these methods actually preserve in your bento fresh. meal doesn’t make sense without them. In food: They encourage good microbes, which Gari is the pickled ginger fact, just rice, soup, and pickles count as a keep out the bad microbes that make you you get with sushi. It’s a complete traditional Japanese meal. Kasu-zuke sick. simple vinegar pickle. Japanese food is often stereotyped as hav- In the US, fermentation is And in case you didn’t ing delicate, subtle flavors. That may fool you the new cool hipster foodie know, you’re supposed to into taking a huge mouthful of pickle, which thing. There’s a kombucha eat it between pieces of could be a shock. Think of them more like a bar at my Whole Foods and sushi to cleanse your pal- condiment. And remember that Japanese cui- a stand at my local farmers ate so you can appreciate the different fla- sine is based around a bowl of rice. Rice is in- market selling kimchee and vors of each kind of fish. Young ginger natu- deed a subtle (some would say bland) food, and sauerkraut. Maybe we’re rally turns pink when pickled. But the bright there’s nothing like a little bit of pickle to kick finally starting to catch up. pink kind you’ll often see is made with artifi- it up a notch when you take a mouthful of rice. But Japanese cuisine al- cial dye. If you watch Japanese cooking shows, ways been all about the fer- Takuan is rice-bran you’ll often see them taste something and mentation. As mentioned pickled daikon radish. say “this makes me want to eat a lot of rice.” earlier, miso and soy sauce, It’s usually served in half- That’s tsukemono in a nutshell. Oh, and that’s both fundamental to Japa- moon slices, and makes supposed to be a good thing. nese cooking, are produced a good vegetarian sushi Aside from their flavor, don’t forget how by fermentation. And aside roll filling. Manufactured important presentation is to Japanese food. from those quick vinegar takuan is also often dyed Tsukemono in their varied colors add eye ap- pickles that are more like nowadays, to a bright yellow color. Tradition- peal as well. salads, most of the pickling ally it’s dried in the sun before being pick- Tsukemono-market processes involve fermenta- led, which can make a JAPANESE PICKLES TODAY tion too. pretty awesome photo. Pickles used to be made by hand in each Preserving vegetables this way not only Beni shōga is ginger household, and each tasted a little different. AND THE REST…. made them last longer when there was no re- in little red strips. You Your mom’s rice bran pickles really were Pickles are also made using soy sauce, miso, and vinegar. frigeration, some methods even made them probably seen these different from everyone else’s, because the The most familiar to us, vinegar pickles are not usually for healthier. on top of yakisoba or microbes on her hands were different. Now, long-term storage. This is because Japanese vinegar is low Some types of pickles aid digestion. Rice takoyaki. It’s pickled homemade pickles are usually lighter kinds in acid. I make one regularly with vinegar and a little soy bran pickles are high in B vitamins – a vi- in the vinegar used to that only take an hour or a day or two to sauce and sugar. Eaten fresh it’s more like a little side salad. tamin that the Japanese diet was short on make umeboshi pick- make. Most people go to the store and buy Leftovers the next day are more pickle-y. when it was based mostly on white rice. led plums. So its bright red color ought to the more labor-intensive kinds. What’s that? You’d like to try the recipe yourself? No prob- Rather than throw away the B-vitamin-rich come from the red shiso leaves. Sadly, today As noted above, manufactured pickles are lem. Here it is. rice bran after it’s removed while making the it is also usually artificially dyed. often made with artificial dyes. Read the in- white rice, pickling with it adds these vita- gredients on the packaged ones. You’ll find Recipe for quick pickled cucumber: mins back into the diet. HOW TO APPROACH they are about as similar to traditionally • Use pickling cucumbers or another type with the minimum A STRANGE TSUKEMONO made pickles as instant ramen is to a real of seeds – they have a better texture. If you have to use a FAMOUS JAPANESE PICKLES The earliest pickles were vegetables pre- local ramen shop. Remember that many of regular American cuke, scoop all the seeds out. Japanese people make pickles out of al- served in salt. One legend of the origin of these pickles take days or weeks or even • Slice cucumber and cut slices in quarters or halves. Finely most every vegetable in so many ways that tsukemono places it at Kayatsu Shrine in months to make in the old-fashioned way. So shred some gingerroot. we could never list all the combinations. Nagoya. The shrine is now nicknamed Tsuke- commercial ones take a lot of shortcuts. • For a large cuke, mix 1/4 c soy sauce, 1/4 c rice vinegar and There are local specialties and all kinds of mono Jinja and home to a festival celebrating However, you can still find traditional about a tablespoon of sugar. (Start there and experiment – ingredients added for flavor. From herbs and the occasion each August. It’s said that the lo- stores specializing in handmade pickles, you can go up to 2 T next time if you want it sweeter.) citrus fruits to ingredients that add umami cal people there traditionally made offerings which may have hundreds of kinds. You • Mix it all up and refrigerate for an hour or two or three like kombu seaweed, bonito, and shiitake of salt harvested from the sea and the vegeta- should look for them when you’re in Japan, before serving. It’s also good but different the next day. mushroom. bles from the first harvest. Because the offer- because even if you don’t buy anything, it’s (Adapted from a recipe by Harumi Kurihara) But there are a few pickles that you’ll see ings spoiled quickly, someone came up with as much a true traditional Japanese sight as everywhere: the idea to combine them together in a barrel. any temple or rock garden. STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK NOVEMBER 14 – NOVEMBER 20, 2019 AST INAW A T 6 A

Fry your own kushiage at Kushiya Monogatari Head to Kushiya Monogatari for kushiage, deep-fried skewers made popular in Osaka. In this buffet-style restaurant, pick your skewers and fry them at your table! Kushiya Monogatari uses healthy oil in all of its table fryers and offers over 30 ingredients for its skewers. Pick from shrimp, beef, pork, chicken and veggies in this all- you-can-eat setting. Have fun battering the skewers and cooking them up right in front of you. Dip your skewers in a variety of sauces and spices available. Also included are and rice, fresh salads, cakes, fruit and ochazuke. Your family will love this unique experience!

Have a great meal at Rose Garden Visit Rose Garden for a delightful dining experience with a menu serving up American breakfast favorites like pancakes, eggs benedict, omelets and toast. If you can’t make it in for their morning menu, stop in for lunch or dinner. Rose Garden offers great course meals including filet mignon, sirloin steak, lobster thermidor, large shrimp scampi, salmon with dill and mustard sauce, rosemary chicken and pasta. And pair your deli- cious meal with a nice glass of wine. Any time of day, Rose Garden offers great food and great prices. We’re waiting for you just down the street from AEON Mall- Okinawa Rycom! NOVEMBER 14 – NOVEMBER 20, 2019 E OF OK STRIPES OKINAWA AST INAW A T 7 A

Gen a real gem on Okinawa Offering authentic Japanese and Okinawan cuisine at a reasonable price, Gen was recognized in Stripes’ Best of the Pacific 2013 as the best restaurant to expe- rience the local culture on Okinawa. Owner and Head Chef Naoki Tsukayama highly recommends the “Fish Butter Combo,” a popular dish among American customers. Tsukayama and his staff make you feel at home, so stop by and enjoy a delicious meal. Gen is lo- cated across from Camp Foster’s fire station. Just look for shi-shi dogs on a traditional Okinawan tile roof outside Foster’s Fire Station Gate.

Taste the Hawaiian vibe at Hale Noa Café Owned by a chef in Hawaii, Hale Noa Café has been attracting a wide-range of foreign customers. With its Hawaiian vibe, Hale Noa serves up the some of the best of the 50th state’s favorite foods. We choose the fresh- est ingredients for the best taste made from scratch. Enjoy Macadamia Nut Pancakes, Hawaiian Bowl, Fresh Poke Bowl and more! Hale Noa’s fluffy French Toast with berries and crème brulee sauce is to die for! Afterwards, wash it all down with one of our healthy and home- made smoothies. Start your day with a superior break- fast at Hale Noa Café. STRIPES OKINAWA E OF OK NOVEMBER 14 – NOVEMBER 20, 2019 AST INAW A T 8 A

Serving up tasty food with a flair Four Seasons teppanyaki steak house in Okinawa City has been dazzling customers and their taste buds since 1972. Watch as our talented chefs slice, dice and cook up your entrées right at your table. It’s more than a meal, it’s an event! Located near Kadena Air Base’s Gate 2 on 330 Street, our restaurant is the perfect place relax, unwind and simply enjoy some fun with your food. If you haven’t had the pleasure of enjoying Japanese teppanyaki, come in for a visit! Reservations recommended. Private rooms available for groups of 5 or more.

Four Seasons sizzling with scrumptious fun Our teppanyaki steak house in Mihama is the perfect place to enjoy tasty food and have fun doing it with family and friends. Watch as our talented chefs slice, dice and cook up your entrées right at your table. It’s more than a meal, it’s an event! Located in the popular American Village, our Mihama branch offers a casual atmosphere where all ages are welcome. If you haven’t had the pleasure of enjoying Japanese teppanyaki, you need to come to Four Seasons. Please make reservations as sometimes we are full. It depends on how busy we are. Thanks for understanding.