Older, Wiser, Trendier?

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Overly oaky The favorite wines: Some toolsof drinkershavea the Baltimore quarrel with Orioles’ head barrels groundskeeper D7 D9

As men age,dressing stylishly gets increasingly treacherous—especially with fashion veering ever morecasual. But giving up entirely is neveragood look. Here’shelp

BY TERRANCE FLYNN

ALL IT GUTSY or foolish, but as ayounger man Iwas prone to taking the occasional fashion risk.When Iwas 30,for exam- Cple,apair of black leather pants spoketome. Imean they actually made a sound when Ipulled them on in the dressing room, that satisfying twisting noise of leather in motion. They also smelledlikeacatcher’s mittand bulked up my thighs so that walking in them wasaminor undertaking.But dressing outside my comfort zone had the pleasant effect of estranging me slightly from myself, of magnifying my boldness. (Then again, I bought the pantsatGap,the daring purveyor of the Pocket-T.Sonot all that risky.) Tenyearslater,Iwas still at it. At 40,I fell prey to that illusion, perpetuated briefly in the aughts, that urban western wear was not as embarrassing as previouslythought, and gotmyself ablue straw cowboyhat. I promptly took the hat on aweekend to Mon- tauk—a trip whose sole purpose wastoin- troducemetothe best friends of my new significant other.The relationship lasted a long time but so did the storyofmyappear- ing poolside,mounting aloungechair likea saddle and donning that stupid hat as if to say: No big deal, I’m just wearing ablue cowboy hat at the pool—why wouldn’t I? I recently entered my 50s. As a newly single father with a school-age daughter, I’m warier now about dressing outside the lines. Giving up, however, is never a stylish look. In California, where I live, sartorial surren- der among older men often manifests as a field vest with its outer pockets drooping sadly like a basset hound’s eyes, or head-to- toe Margaritaville wear, a look I like to call Forever 71. There has to be a middle state, neither embarrassed nor embalmed in which over-40 men can live and look sharp. And don’t believe that old chestnut about men becoming distinguished as they age no mat- ter what they wear, as if by default rather than effort. It’s total crap. Not everyone grows older like the Trivago guy or Flea. So youdoactually have to try, but I’ve learned through trial and glaring error that it’sbest to proceed with stealth, precision and caution. I’m suspicious of most trends, especially as men’sfashion skewsincreasingly morecasual (sneakersposited as appropriate wedding-guest attire) or florid (chinoiserie embroidery; anything from Gucci). Colors other than manly armygreens and universally condoned blues work best in small doses, though not as cowboyhats. And if youdon’t submit daily to the form of group torture called CrossFit, I’davoid anything clingyor flimsy; softerbodies need the flattering ar- mor of weightier fabrics.(See “Getting It Right” on pageD2for moreadvice.) Iavoid the newarray of ethereal shirtsmade of ever moregauzy,practically mist-likematerials. Similarly lackinginstructureare sweatpants attempting to stand in forjeans.Worst of all: drop-crotch “harem” sweatpants.Ican’t be the only guymyage looking forclothes with MAKI

TA substanceand few,ifany,concubine connota- JUST DO IT...OR MAYBE NOT tions. Wearing sneakers with a suit has UREN

LA Turns out I am not. Take Michael Engle- become socially acceptable in some

BY man, the mid-40s executive vice president quarters, but mature guys might

ION of entertainment marketing and brand inno- want a pair that skews more AT

TR vation at TBS and TNT in Los Angeles. He’s understated than these To m Sachs US PleaseturntopageD2 X Nike Mars Ya rd 2.0. ILL

[INSIDE ]

SUNDAES THE ITALIAN WAY More complexlyflavoredthan DQ’s, these gelatoconcoctions aretrulycool D6

FLOWERS TO FLEE FROM PLENTY OF DRIVE BAGUETTES WITHOUT CHEESE We asked14design pros to name the AMontana road trip between Ye llowstone The sophisticated diamond-cut known blooms theyloathe (and love) D8 and Glacier National Parks D4 as the ‘baguette’ is back D3 P2JW203000-4-D00200-1------XA

D2 | Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. STYLE & FASHION NEITHER EMBARRASSED NOR EMBALMED

ContinuedfrompageD1 also husband of comedy writer JessiKlein and abusy newdad. His time crunch led him to try GETTING IT TOO ERR IS Seizesur Vingt, aclothier special- RIGHT // THREE izing in custom tailoring that COMBOS TO HELP HUMAN, BUT... started as asmall shop in New OLDER MEN LOOK York’sNolitaneighborhood, and SERIOUSLY? has sinceexpanded to sell within CURRENT IN itsown multi-brand menswear RELATIVELY QUIET shop in Manhattancalled Groupe WAYS There are so many ways older men and L.A. men’sboutique Avedon. can go wrong when it comes to style. “Nowthey have my measure- ments,” he said. “I picked the fab- Here, a few examples of trying too rics.They sent me acouple of hard, not trying hard enough and just shirtsand asuit. Done.” This plain checking out routeisabit beyond my means, but Ienvyhim the opportunity to INFORMAL UPGRADE specifymaterials that aren’t on- A denim overshirt ionskin thin and to getthe fit is a casual classic (just THE TRENDY TRAGEDY right everytime,neither toovolu- ask Steve McQueen), but minous nor toovacuum-sealed— this one by To d’s elevates This man loved both of which defeat an older the cut with a stolen-from- guy’sbid forstyle. a-dress-shirt spread collar to have the latest and sharp, straight hem. from earlyon. A stylish twist: Wearing it He maystill have over a Breton-stripe ‘Never mistakesomeone’s T-shirt. apair of Vivi- telling youhow young you enne Westwood look for acompliment.’ bondagepants, circa-1977,inhis NAP OF LUXURY closet. Nowadays Michael Souter, 64, founder of Suede loafers from Crockett & he’sall about Jones, not athletic sneakers, Souter/Partners, a luxury branding Gucci’snoisily firm in New York with clients such complete the ensemble. Pair them as Givenchy and Issey Miyake, still with cotton twill patch-pocket pants cutting-edge has a functioning relationship with that dial up the default look of clothes and chinos a couple notches. fashion but knows the value of re- droopy-necked straint. His livelihood, after all, re- lies on the subtlety of his taste. To d’s Shirt, $445, mrporter.com; Te e, $75, officinegenerale.com; Pants, $220, maisonkitsune.fr; Belt, T-shirts that “One of the few rules I have,” he $99, paulstuart.com; Loafers $550, crockettandjones.com expose his salt- said, “is to avoid anything with a and-pepper youth message on it.” I think guilt- ily of my Marquette University BRIGHT IDEA chesthair. sweatshirts and, more embarrass- While it’s safe to stick to ingly, of the fact that I only re- navy, brown, gray and black cently edited from my wardrobe a clothes when you’re of a certain THE EIGHTIES LEFTOVER “Vote for Pedro” ringer T-shirt. age, a palate punch-up like this “Also, avoid hair dye,” added Mr. burnt orange Brunello Cucinelli Finding agreat- Souter. It should be mentioned sweater—mostly hidden that he has a full head of thick, under a restrained suit— fitting suit is a naturally non-gray hair. He is less adds vitality. foolproof style strict about other practices, such solution for the as “wearing a young jean or too fun a sock,” stating only that they professional. should be “minimized.” Fashion in- This gentleman, siders, I’ve noticed, favor the col- however, is still lective singular (“jean,” “sock”), dropping that final “s” like it’s wearing his suit completely out of style. one-and-a-half “Or a pleated short,” I offered sizes too big, ac- gamely. cessorized by “Any shorts,” he said, reinstat- ing the last “s” in shorts, perhaps slicked-back hair as a slight admonition about who and afulsome gets to use the lingo and when. pocket square, “The important thing to remember is: Never mistake someone’s telling likeanextra you how young you look for a from the compliment. It is not.” 1987 film, “No?” “No.Only old people aretold “Wall Street.” they look young,and it is usually when their strategyisshowing. SOLID Shoot forlooking good, not young.” FOUNDATION THE DAD-JEAN DON’T In my childhood, my father This sweater would be too loud worn used ahair tonic called Vitalis, with an electric-blue suit. Manage the They’resafe. which supposedly made hair shiny risk of color by grounding it with staid minus the greasinessofBryl- shades like no-nonsense navy and They’reeasy. creem. Though it failed completely sophisticated, black cap-toe shoes. They’recomfort- to tame my dense curls when I able. Dad jeans gaveitatry,its name hinted at a quality that still defines manyof certainlyhave the well-dressed men Iadmire. Suit, $4,250, Berluti, 212-439-6400; Sweater, $2,075, Brunello Cucinelli, 212-334-1010; Socks, $24, their allure. But When I’m 60 and beyond, I’dlike falke.com; Shoes, $1,340, John Lobb, 212-888-9797 wearing them to emulatethose older guys who have ahealthyrespect forthe can also tele- open question. Men who know THE ZIP CODE graph the mes- that the real fountain of youth lies Between amid-life- crisis biker jacket and an sage that you’ve in maintaining alively curiosity givenup. This about what lifemight yetbring. overly collegiatefleece, Who, when they’regetting liesthe distinguished paterfamilias has MAKI suede bomber.Wearit TA dressed, leave room forunpredict- lazilyadded a ability. overapolo with UREN enough heft to its too-big polo LA I hope that, even if I’m just get- BY ting dressed to take the garbage fabric that it shirt, afreebie won’tcling. IONS out, I’ll still be open to the possi- baseball cap and AT

TR bility that I could bump into that

US drugstoresun- attractive neighbor who right at ILL that moment might be walking glasses. down an adjacent driveway. God CARELL);

, help me if I’m wearing harem

(PITT sweatpants when I do. THE ‘I WAS WITH THE BAND’ GES

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GETTY to moremature guys with spare THING);

LO tires,wedon’t (C S recommend wearing a“The CARDENA BEST DENIM Strokes” T-shirt ANNE

BY Dark-washed, straight- in 2017.And legged (read: not youmight want YLING Al-Bundy baggy) and free ST of distressing or to leave the intentional holes: These man-buns to the JOURNAL, are the jeans every dad promising 20-

REET should aspire to. Wear ST them with under-the-radar, something LL

WA subwaybuskers. GOOD OLD BOYS From left: solid leather sneakers to Both Brad Pitt, 53, and Steve finish off a dignified This fellow, downtime look. MIN/THE Carell, 54, know how to nod to however, mar- RA fashion without looking

TIN ches to his own conspicuously “fashionable.” Officine Générale Jacket, $1,325, bygeorgeaustin.com; Polo Shirt, $125, sunspel.com; Jeans, $125,

MAR drummer. F. sidmashburn.com; Sneakers, $845, Brunello Cucinelli, 212-334-1010 P2JW203000-4-D00300-1------XA

THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. **** Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017|D3 STYLE & FASHION

plained Lori Gross, author of “Brooches: TimelessAdornment.” Earrings, With their straight edges,the $63,800, stones were suited to being cre- Sidney Garber, atively stacked and tiled. “Some of 312-944-5225 the Cartier and VanCleef pieces  from that period have the most fantastical shapes,” said Ms.Gross. Baguettes arefueling asimilar creativezeal today. Austin, Texas designer NakArmstrong transforms untraditionally trapezoid-shaped, tapered baguettes, intoa“pleated, ruffled, ruched look,likeyou would see in fabric.” He views the cut as a challengeofsorts. “Some people let the stone tell them howthey should design the piece,” he said. “I want to whip them intoshape and turn them intosomething else.” Designer Suzanne Kalandjian, founder of Suzanne Kalan, started Ileana Makri using baguettes six years ago, but Necklace, her designs initially met with re- $5,720, sistance. “Baguettes are [sharp- barneys.com cornered] and not as shiny as  round diamonds,” said Ms. Kaland- jian. Customers looking for edgier jewelry cottoned to her pieces im- mediately, but more conventional stores, she said, “took a bit longer.” Today, her collection, which merges the romance of diamonds with spiky, geometric forms, is almost fully baguette-focused. It’s Ring, $11,825, S carried in places such as Neiman anitako.com Marcus and Dover Street Market.  CARDENA ANNE BY ‘It has a clean look that YLING

ST makes a statement without all the chatter.’ JOURNAL, Clockwise from left: Necklace, REET Price upon Request, Bulgari, 800- ST

LL 285-4274; Magicien Earrings, Baguettes can, of course,be

WA Price upon Request, Cartier, 800- used in elaboratetraditional 227-8437; Vintage Starburst pieces,likethe Bulgari necklace Nak Armstrong

MIN/THE Earrings, $188,000, Verdura, 212- pictured here, but they also ap- Earrings, RA 758-3388; Ring, $60,000, peal to jewelryminimalistswho $38,500, Barneys TIN Tiffany & Co, 800-843-3269 might not usually consider dia- New Yo rk, MAR monds.“Thecut has aclean, ar- F. 212-826-8900 chitectural look that makes a  statement without all the chatter,” said Greek designer Ileana Makri, whose current collection features The BaguetteRises her signature“evileye” pieces rendered in baguette diamonds as well as anecklacefeaturing an in- versepyramid of baguettes. Once a supporting player for big blingier stones, the rectangular Thesimplicity of the cut, however,belies itstechnical chal- diamond shape is now starring in unexpected modern jewelry designs lenges.The cut shows all flaws, “likeclear water” said Ms.Makri, so high-quality stones areamust. Suzanne Theglittering baguette has most owner of Twist, ajeweler with Setting canalso be achallenge, Kalan Cuff, BY RIMA SUQI oftenplayedbackup singer to the shops in Seattle and Portland, Ore., due to the crisp corners. $58,000, proverbial rock star,most often that carries modern pieces from Yetthat’sclearly not keeping Neiman IRST LET’S GET it out flanking alarge round or emerald- brands likeIleana Makri and Su- jewelersfromenthusiastically us- Marcus, of the way. The ba- cut stone in aring.Itwas particu- zanne Kalan. ing the stones,particularly de- 310-550-5900 guette—the long, lean, larly visible in the 1980s when big Thecut evolved from the unfor- signerslikeMs. Kalandjian who  rectangular cut of dia- showy gems were de rigueur.Ah, tunately named hogback cut arebanking on the cut’spopularity. F mond—has little in She,however, is confidently un- but howtimes have changed. The (whose uppermost surfaces form a common with the long, lean, crisp- baguette is currently at the center peak,while the baguette’s topis bothered. “In the beginning people crusted French loaf of the same of jewelrydesign—literally and oth- flat).Though itshistorydates to thought they were trendy,” said name. The word is derived from an erwise.“Baguettes were latetothe the 1600s,the baguette cut “be- jeweler Ms.Kalandjian. “But they’re Italian noun meaning “stick” or party but noware having amo- came moreprominent in the 1920s heretostay. It’sdone—it’spart of “wand.” ment,” said Paul Schneider,co- during the art decoperiod,” ex- lifenow.”

HANG TIME CLOSET STRATEGIESFROMWOMEN WITH LOTS OF CLOTHES CATEGORICALLY CLEVER

In the debut of Off Duty’s new recurring feature on wardrobe organization, three fashion-loving women share their tips on orderly hanging, happiness-inducing shoe storage and the one thing every clotheshorse should do

MANDANA DAYANI AMANDA ROSS BRETT HEYMAN

Mandana Dayani, the Los Angeles-based chief brand officer of on- When she wasafashion editor living in aone-bedroom Manhattan Though she’sstreamlined her wardrobe sincehaving kids (ages7,6 line estate-sale website Everything But the House (EBTH), recently apartment, Amanda Ross,founder of lifestyle and e-commerce web- and 1), Brett Heyman, founder of handbag line Edie Parker,still re- reorganized her walk-in with a professional: “It was the most ther- siteARossGirl, sharpened her wardrobe wizardry.“It’s amazing how quires serious closet spacefor avintage collection which, she said apeutic thing I’ve ever done,” she said. much youcan fit intoacloset if you’re organized,”she said. charmingly,equips her to dressfor impromptu costume parties.

On hanging order Ms. Dayani goes for the classic combination On hanging order This self-professed hater of clutter arranges On hanging order Ms. Heyman also hangs by type—trousers, of hanging clothes by color and category.“Blazers together and clothes by category, color and season in the closets she now skirts, dresses, et cetera—which is probably so common because organized by color; coats by color and so on,” said Ms. Dayani. shares with her husband. Being able to see and access your it’s simply logical. The designer is dedicated to one sort of The one exception is her dresses. “We organized them by length,” clothes, said Ms. Ross, is a crucial step in being stylish. “[Getting hanger—the razor-thin SlimLine brand. “It’s out of necessity,” she she said. Anything embellished for evening is in a garment bag— dressed] is like baking a cake,” she added. “You have to have the said. “I can’t fit anything else.” with a clear window—to avoid snagging its neighbor. right ingredients on hand—and know when to mix them.” On shoe storage Ms. Heyman made her closets a priority when On shoe storage Ms. Dayani is lucky enough to have a wall of On shoe storage Again, visibility is important. “Nothing is in a she renovated an apartment with her husband eight years ago. ALL shoe shelves in her walk-in. But a recent tweak in how she ar- box,” said Ms. Ross of the floor-to-ceiling shoe shelves in her Footwear got its own special place. “I used faux Venetian glass to

O’FERR ranges them has made a big difference. “I used to do one heel main closet. make a beautiful wall in our bedroom that you open [to reveal] a forward, one toe forward to save space,” she said. This time I did shallow shoe closet.” One drawback: it doesn’t fit boots. “I just MORE

Ë both toes forward; it just feels happier.” All boots get stuffers to On the best practiceeveryone canfollow Ta ke stock every sea- put them in my main closet and close my eyes,” she said. ZO keep them upright. “You see them so much better,” she said. son. Twiceayear, she purgespieces she’snot wearing and knows BY she won’twearagain. She also siftsthrough various secondary On the best practiceeveryone canfollow Don’tget tooattached

IONS On the best practice everyone can follow Don’t jam a closet closetstofind things she’ll want to access quickly and movesthem to stuff.“Thereare so manygreat consignment places,” said Ms. AT

TR to the brim. Said Ms. Dayani, “I think having actual air circulation to her main closet. “It’s likeshopping in your ownwardrobe,” she Heyman. If you’re not wearing it, let it go unless it has sentimen- US is really important for preserving the fabrics.” And your sanity. said. “I pull out things from 10 yearsago that arerelevant today.” tal—or emergencycostume-party—value. —Christine Whitney ILL P2JW203000-4-D00400-1------XA

D4 | Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. ADVENTURE & TRAVEL Park and Ride

Ahistory-stuffed road trip through the still-wild frontier between western Montana’stwo iconic national parks JOURNAL REET ST LL WA THE R FO ON GUS FER TUG A SHU JO

GEAR SHIFT Clockwise from top: Gulch, the main street of what BY JIM ROBBINS Overlooking Ye llowstone River from quickly evolved intoaprosperous justoutside the northern border of city.Some saythat foratime,Hel- FAMERICA’S 59 na- Ye llowstone National Park; the ena claimed moremillionaires than tional parks,two of Garden of aThousand Buddhas; anytownits size, which is easy the most celebrated Mountain SkyGuest Ranch, ahigh- enough to fathom when youdrive lie some 400 miles end dude ranch in the Paradise Valley. through its19th-centurymansion O apart in western Mon- district. Today, newcoffee shops,a tana—Glacier and Yellowstone.Even microbrewery and awine bar line though I’velived in the region for the gulch. Jill Roberts, who returned four decades,I’d never takenthe home to Helena aftermanyyearsas time to fully explorethe in-between asommelier in NewYork,co-owns territoryoutside the parks.Soone the wine bar,Hawthorn Bottle Shop spring day, afterthe snowhad and Tasting Room. “My Dad used to mostly melted off,Iset out from Yel- sing in abarbershop quartet in front lowstone with my compasspointed of this building,” she said. “I wanted north toward Glacier.Ifyou don’t to be part of bringing back historic stop,weaving apath through the Helena.” wild heart of the northern Rockies, Theshortest routefromhereto the drivetakes about seven hours, which unfurls north from the park’s Valley to work the lodes. Among the 1970s,but it has sincebecome a Glacier zips through the Swan Val- but Iwas in no rush and spread the historic stone arch. TheYellowstone, the settlements they built is Old destination forthe world’swell- ley,but who’s in ahurry? Iheaded trip out over three days. the longest undammed river in the Chico, a mountain village a half- heeled who come forthe scenery, west, driving acouple of hoursto Thefirst thing yourealizeleaving contiguous U.S.,bisectsthe valley hour north of Yellowstone, now skiing and flyfishing.“Ithink it’sbe- Missoula, another lively college Yellowstone—by way of Highway and manypeople come to raft it in home to just a handful of people cause the landscape and people are town in the mountains.The novel “A 89—is that the abundant wildlife these parts, especially on the churn- who live in an assortment of old still authentic,” said Cyndy Andrus, River RunsThrough It” waspartly doesn’t stop at itsboundary. Just ing rapids of Yankee Jim Canyon, cabins and newer houses with deputy mayorofBozeman, the bus- set here, and ariver called the Clark north of Gardiner,apark gateway the color of chocolatemilk in the breath-stealing views of the peaks. tling collegetownjust 30 minutes Fork does indeed runthrough the town, electric warning signs flash spring,giving way to asea-green Within walking distance sits Chico from Livingston. center of town. Surfersingleaming “animals on the road” and indeed shade come summer.The steel-gray Hot Springs Resort & Day Spa, cen- Afterlunch in Bozeman, at apop- black wetsuitsgather belowthe Hig- they were:20orsoelk milled about Absaroka Mountains towermightily tered around a large geothermally ular placecalled Dave’s Sushi, I gins Avenue Bridgetoride itsrapids. in the middle of the highway and in the background. heated swimming pool. The re- stopped at the Madison Buffalo Afew miles north of town, I mule deer toonumerous to mention For centuries, the Paradise Val- sort’s barnwood-lined dining room, Jump,aseven-miledetour (one stopped at what maybethe least crowded the shoulder all along a50- ley was a shared hunting ground which serves grass-fed beef and way)off the Interstate, some of it on likely Montana tourist attraction: the mile stretch of highway.Antelope for Native American tribes in the fresh fish, also happens to rank abumpy gravel road but worth the Garden of One Thousand Buddhas,a grazed, unperturbed by traffic whip- region. But much of the written among the best restaurants in the trip.The tribes who came hereover legion of statues built by aBuddhist ping along the road, bison wandered history of this part of Montana fea- state. After dinner, I swam in the the centuries gotdressed likebison monk from Tibet on the Flathead In- acrossthe green hills and bald ea- tures pick-wielding prospectors hot pool, steam shrouding the and whooped and yelled, luring and dian Reservation. Theroad from gles wheeled overhead, scouting fish and their dogged search for pre- mountain scenery. chasing the creatures down lanes therewinds past the National Bison along the purling Yellowstone River. cious metals. In the 1860s, gold The19th-centuryminersherealso lined with rock,and over the cliff to Range, whereIstopped forapeek at This is Montana’sParadise valley, miners moved into the Paradise needed to eat, and so cattlemen and their death or near death on the the herd, and through the Mission their herds made their way to the rocks below. Ihiked to the topfor an Mountains,named fora19th-Cen- Paradise Valley.Agold miner named expansiveviewofthe valley.It’sthe turyJesuit mission set in, formy THELOWDOWN // ROAD TRIPPING IN WESTERN MONTANA Nelson Storydrove 1,000 cowsfrom kind of place, as the saying goes, money,one of Montana’sprettiest Texas acrossthe plains,upthe Boze- whereyou canwatch your dog run valleysatthe mountains’ foot. STAYING THERE CANADA is afamily-run place man Trail and on to Montana where away forthree days. Ifinished my trip in northwest Near Livingston, the with agreat Italian he founded aranch tucked in the Just up the road, the town of Montana with anight at the cen-

Centennial Inn, are- Glacier Detail restaurant, Scottibellis, mountains near atowncalled Emi- ThreeForks is named forthe nearby tury-old Kalispell Grand Hotel, and National storedrailway car, Park U.S. next door (from $72a grant. Nowasprawling spread, it’s sitewherethree rivers—named the then on to West Glacier,the gateway sleeps four.Fishing on MONTANA night, kalispell- called the Mountain SkyGuest Madison, Gallatin and Jefferson by to Glacier National Park.This is Helena the Ye llowstone is a Yellowstone grand.com). Ranch, ahigh-end rustic retreat Lewis and Clark—meander and ox- huckleberrycountry, wherethe Bozeman River short walk away (from ThreeForks owned by Arthur Blank,chairman of bowand finally gettheir act to- blueberry’swild and moreflavorful $195 anight, vrbo.com). Livingston EATING THERE Home Depot. gether to createthe beginning of the sibling,stars in menus all over Gardiner At the luxe Mountain Yellowstone ChicoHot Springs Ijoined Interstate90atLiving- mighty Missouri. Ihiked around the town—in pies,milkshakes,Martinis, National SkyGuest Ranch IDAHO Park drawsasmanypatrons ston, awindblown railroad town Missouri HeadwatersState Park and beer; come July,locals will tell you manycabins dateback WYOMING to itsdining room as to with aquaint historic downtown found the exact spot wherethree wheretopick your own. to the 1920s (from itsspa (163ChicoRd., backed by asudden rise of moun- riversbecome one. When Ifinally droveintoGlacier around $4,000 aweek per person, all- Pray, chicohotsprings.com). Built in 1910, tains.Ispent the night in ameticu- Imotored on to Helena, my home- National Park,snowstill cloggedthe inclusive, www.mountainsky.com). In the SacajaweaHotel in Three Forks lously refurbished railcar (listed on town, founded in 1864 when four ex- high countrythere. Isat on the Helena, try the SandersBed and also housesatop restaurant (5 North the vacation-rental siteVRBO), set in asperated prospectors, on the verge shoreofLakeMcDonald, at the edge Breakfast, a19th-century mansion Main St., sacajaweahotel.com). In Mis- acottonwood groveafew miles of giving up,finally plucked gold of the park,and looked at the famed built by aprosecutor forvigilantes soula, RedBird offersupscale,locally south of town. nuggets out of asmall creek that peaks at the far end of the water’s (from $140 anight, sandersbb.com). sourcedfarelikegrilled bison tenderloin This region wasstill largely cattle tumbled out of the mountains.The edgeand their mirror imageinthe The Kalispell Grand Hotel in Kalispell, (111 N. Higgins, redbirdrestaurant.com). countrywhen Ifirst came west in gold-filled creek became Last Chance still surface.

BOOKSHELF WALKING DOWN MEMORY LANE

From Manhattan’sHigh Line to the NewZealand coastline,these three books catertotravelers whose favoritemode of transportation is their owntwo feet

A History of the World in Magnetic City: A Walking Havana: ASubtropical 500 Walks Companion to New Yo rk Delirium By Sarah Baxter ($28, Thunder Bay Press) By Justin Davidson ($22, Spiegel &Grau) By Mark Kurlansky ($26, Bloomsbury)

British travel writer Sarah Baxter tackles This newbook by architecturecritic Jus- A flâneur, afrequent figurein19th-century an ambitious task in this 400-page vol- tin Davidson offerswalking guidesfor French literature, wanderscitystreets, keenly ume: compiling a list of walkable routes visitorstoNew Yo rk, whether it’s their observing urban lifefromunder the brim of that have shaped natural and human first Big-Apple trip or their 100th. Mr. his tophat. Mark Kurlanskymakes acase for history. These range from a hike in what Davidson planned each of the sevenitin- Havana as catnip formodern flâneurs(sans is now Québec through the crater left by eraries—through Manhattan, Brooklyn tophats) in his kaleidoscopic portrait of a meteorite crash 350 million years ago, and the Bronx—toexpose walkerstoa Cuba’scapital. “Thereisstill probably no JOURNAL to the Kokoda Track through the mountains of Papua New wealth of cultural and architectural history.The Upper West Side other cityinthe world whereastrolling visitor is afforded so many Guinea, where Japanese and Australian soldiers fought during walk, forexample,takes youpastaGeorgian beaux-artsmansion candid domestic scenes,”hewrites.Tobeclear,the book doesn’tin- REET ST

World War II. Fittingly, the book is organized by historical period, which, at the turn of the 20th century,was home to philanthropists clude maps or walking routes.Instead, the author,aformer foreign LL

starting with pre-human history and moving to the Middle Ages Isaac and Julia Rice. While her husband pored overchess boards in correspondent, interspersespagesonHavana’scultural and political WA up through the 20th century. Descriptions of the walks’ historical the basement, the book reveals, Julia fought againstriver-traffic history with vivid descriptions and anecdotes about specific sites,

significance are accompanied by maps, photographs and practical noise pollution, founding the Societyfor the Suppression of Unnec- from Revolution SquaretoErnest Hemingway’s (many) former wa- MIN/THE tidbits on when to go and the degree of physical ability required, essary Noises. The societywielded adegree of political power, notes tering holestothe UFO-shaped icecream parlor commissioned by RA whether it’s a two- to three-hour meander on Boston’s Freedom Mr.Davidson, but only temporarily,likesomuch in an ever-changing dairy-loving Fidel Castro—furnishing enough intriguing intel to propel TIN Trail or a six- to 10-day trek up Kilimanjaro. citywith what he calls “layeredghosts on every block.” your ownaimless ramble. —SydneyLazarus MAR F. P2JW203000-4-D00500-1------NS

THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. **** NY Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017|D5 P2JW203000-4-D00600-1------XA

D6 | Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. EATING & DRINKING Still-Life With Gelato

Creamy and crunchy, sweet and tart, the deftly composed coppettaiswhat youmight get if the sundae went to art school in Italy

rant in Manhattan, and went on BY GABRIELLA GERSHENSON to gain wide acclaim for her fro- zen desserts (and a cult follow- OU MIGHT not think of ing for her olive-oil gelato) dur- gelatoasalower-fat ing her 12-year run as the option. But talk to New founding pastry chef at Otto, Ma- York City pastrychef rio Batali’s Greenwich Village piz- YMeredith Kurtzman, zeria. Her contributions to the and youlearn all sortsofthings. craft continue—she’s now working Italian-style gelato, she explained, as a consultant to ice cream com- contains afraction of the cream panies and plotting a cookbook— used in American-style icecream as does the dessert program she and way moremilk.“Fatcoatsyour created at Otto, based on house- tongue and obfuscates flavor,” she made gelati, sorbetti and the sun- said. Forapastrychef fixated on ex- daes they star in, which Ms. Kurtz- pressing the character of her ingre- man dubbed coppette. dients, this is aprettybig deal. “Coppetta just means little cup,” Ms. Kurtzman started churning said Ms.Kurtzman, in her unas- gelato at Esca, an Italian restau- suming way.But really,inher hands,it’sadessert composed with

remarkable finesse.“Youwant it ONUT)

crunchyand creamy. Ideally you OC (C want it hot and cold, but that’snot GES always possible,” she said. “You IMA want different textures. Theflavors

always have to balanceout. Sweet Coconut Gelato Coppetta With Lime Granita, Macerated Strawberries and Mint GETTY ); 1 has to be counteracted by acid or ACTIVE TIME: 1/2 hours TOTAL TIME: 9 hours (includes freezing) SERVES: 8 TO

bitter.” One of Ms.Kurtzman’scop- ELA (G pette,the Meringata, illustrates For the coconut gelato: 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened Forthe macerated strawberries: UEZ

this principle particularly well. A 1 quart whole milk condensed milk 1pint strawberries, washed ZQ

1 VA sort of deconstructed lemon-me- 1/2 cups unsweetened For the lime granita: and sliced intobitesizepieces ringue pie,itbringstogether lemon dried coconut 1 cup water 2 tablespoons sugar SA NES 1 1 sorbet (acidic and cool), lemon 10 large egg yolks /3 cup sugar /4 teaspoon salt VA

3 BY Cherry Coppetta With curd(sweet and creamy), torched /4 cup sugar Zest of 2 limes A few leaves basil or mint, 1 1 Vanilla Gelato and meringue (warm), blueberrycom- /2 cup heavy cream /3 cup lime juice, from 3 sliced into thin ribbons, YLING 1 Amaretti Cookies pote(juicy) and crumbled pie crust /2 teaspoon salt to 4 limes for serving (optional) ST

This coppettamade using store- (crunchy). Thecumulativeeffect? OP bought ingredientsrequires little Sheer delight. 1. Makecoconut gelato: Preheat ovento325 degrees. to cool down quickly.Covercooled custard and chill in re- PR

time to assemble.Maceratecher- In preparation forher role at Spreadcoconut overametal baking sheet and roastuntil frigerator at least4hours, preferably overnight. KIMM, rieswith balsamic vinegar fora Otto,Ms. Kurtzman went to Italy to barely colored, 10-15 minutes.Inamedium saucepan over 4. Freeze gelato in an ice-cream maker according to IE tart-savory flavor,oruse brandy hone her gelato-making skills.She medium heat, bring milk and creamtoabaresimmer,then manufacturer’s instructions. Cover with plastic wrap and JAM foranelegant, boozy dessert. Or, brought back lessons on what to remove from heat. When coconut is finished roasting, use a chill in freezer at least 1 hour. BY

swap in jarred amarena cherries do—and what not to.“Most places spatula to nudge it intohot milk and let steep 30 minutes 5. Makelime granita: In asaucepan, heat waterand sugar YLING from Italy,preserved in adelicious in Italy start with awhitebase and (and no longer). Pass milk through afine-mesh strainer and until sugar dissolves and liquid is clear.Stir in lime zest and ST OD

syrup that doublesasasauce. toss in different flavor compounds,” discardcoconut. cool syrup in refrigerator.Oncecool, strain out zest and FO ACTIVE TIME: 10 minutes said Ms.Kurtzman. “I wanted to do 2. In amedium saucepan overmedium heat, heat strained discard. Stir lime juiceintosyrup.Pour lime mixtureintoa 1 TOTAL TIME: 40 minutes it the from-scratch way.” That milk with /2 cup sugar,stirring until steamy. Remove from shallow8-by-8-inch metal or glasspan and placein SERVES: 8 meant, forinstance, steeping mint heat. In aheatproof bowl, whisk egg yolks and remaining freezer. Useafork to scrape liquid around pan every half JOURNAL,

leavesinmilk to build asurpass- sugar.Gradually ladle hot milk intoeggs, whisking to com- hour,until mixtureisflaky, evenly textured and icy, not rock REET ST 1 /2 pound or 2 cups sweet ingly minty gelatofromthe base up. bine,until you’ve added about half the milk. Return hardormushy. Keep it in freezeruntil ready to serve. LL

cherries, pitted and halved She’salso been known to pinch ev- custard to saucepan and heat gently overme- 6. Maceratestrawberries: 1hour beforeserving, in ame- WA

2 tablespoons balsamic erynectarine at the Union Square dium-lowheat, stirring with aspatula until dium bowl, toss strawberrieswith sugar and salt. THE R

vinegar, kirsch or brandy Greenmarket to find the best ones mixtureissteaming but not boiling. Chill in refrigerator. FO 1 /4 cup sugar forsorbet. Though coppette areMs. 3. Quickly strain hot custard intoaheatproof 7. To serve, scoop gelatointocenter of achilled 1 pinch salt Kurtzman’sinvention, her commit- container,then stir in salt and condensed milk. dish. Addascoop of granitaonone side and a GARDNER

16 amaretti cookies, coarse- ment to finding the best ingredients Placecontainer overabowlofice water, and stir dollop of macerated strawberriesonanother. N and letting them shine is very Ital- YA

chopped into spoonable BR pieces ian. “I always want youtoknow 1 quart vanilla gelato what you’reeating,” shesaid. “Oth- other tasty drizzles,likemaple fruits’ natural juices,she said, which delicious coppetta using store- erwise what’sthe point?” syrup or good oliveoil. in turn bathe the fruit in itsown fla- bought ingredients. In the recipe at 1. In a medium bowl, toss cher- Forthe crunch element, Ms. Aboveall, produceinspires this vor. “You want to tastethe fruit left, Ms.Kurtzman recommends ries with balsamic vinegar, Kurtzman recommends toppings chef.“Fruit is my favoritething to first,” said Ms.Kurtzman. “The marrying vanilla gelatowith cher- kirsch or brandy, sugar and salt. ranging from streusel to pretzels to work with,” she said. “SinceI other stuff is just an accent.” ries and amaretti cookies. Let sit 30 minutes. granola. Therichnesscould come couldn’t makepies at Otto,Iworked If you’refeeling ambitious,you Finally,consider the manner in 2. Placecookiesinthe bottom of from the gelato, and/or from a fruit intothe coppette.” Ms.Kurtz- canmakeanentirecoppetta,gelato which youconveythe coppetta to apre-chilled serving dish, scoop creamytopping,likecrème fraîche man’sfavoritemethod is to simply and all, from scratch. AboveisMs. your mouth. “You want to combine gelatoontop,festoon with cher- or whipped cream. Sauces cancer- toss fresh fruit with abit of sugar,a Kurtzman’srecipe forcoconut ge- abit of each thing in each spoon- riesand drizzle macerating liquid tainly include favorites likechoco- pinch of salt and maybe some citrus latoand lime granitawith astraw- ful,” said Ms.Kurtzman. “The funof overtop. lateorcaramel, but Ms.Kurtzman zest, liqueur,balsamic vinegar or berry-mint topping.Or, youcan pro- acoppetta is that youcan put it all recommends experimenting with fresh herbs.Sugar and salt draw out duceaperfectly complexand together in one bite.”

HALF FULL

3 2 CRACK OPEN A WILD ONE 4 5 6 Refreshing newbeer-wine hybrids—among other Frankenbrews—bring in the funk

SUMMER IS ABOUT wild combinations: san- Unity Brewing Co.fermentsagluten-free dals with asuit, books on the beach. ’Tis the beer using the bacteria and yeast normally season of icecubes in your wine glassand found in kombucha. CambridgeBrewing uses 1 iced teainyour lemonade—and now, in your sake’sunique mix of yeast and koji (a mold). beer glass, anew breed of hybrid brews. To produceits Bitches Brew,Dogfish Head These cross-genreblends of beer,wine,booze studied the traditional honey fermentation and soda bring playful irreverencetosummer that makes ancient African t’ej wine. refreshment. Beforethe advent of modern brewing,with Experimenting with wild yeastsand natural itsclearly delineated styles and designated fermentation, brewers have found common yeast strains,brewers worked with asplash ground with winemakers. Oncethe staff at of this,apinch of that and ahefty helping of Texas’sJester King Brewery sawneighboring respectfulresignation to the mysteries of fer-

Hill Countrywineries using the same natural- mentation. There’sanelement of improvisa- S fermentation tricks they did—barrels,open tion to these newbrews,and that’swhat 1. Cambridge Brewing 3. UnityVibration Tr iple God- 5. Allagash Victor,7.4% tanks,local microbes—borrowing fruit from makes them fun. “In the early days,wewere CARDENA Banryu Ichi, 14%ABV dess KPA, 7.0% ABV ABV them seemed alogical next step. crushing grapes with baseball bats,” said All-

Brewed with sake’suniquely KPAstartswith fizzy,funky Cabernet Franc grapesinPil- Jester King SPON Albariño &Blanc du Bois agash brewmaster Jason Perkins. ANNE high-octane yeaststrains, kombucha, then turns lambic- sner grain playred-fruit mel- is aBelgian-style lambic beer refermented They’vegrown up,somewhat. Dogfish BY

this barleywine has afrilly, likewith sour yeastinanopen odiesoveraspiced and with wine grapes.“We had to develop our pal- Head plans to release itsBitches Brew in YLING floral, cantaloupe-and-vanilla fermentation tank and finishes snappybeat: candied ginger ate,” said Jester King founder Jeffrey Stuff- canned six packs this year—big news fora ST aroma masking atough and with an IPA’sworth of hops. with aside of raspberries. ings, “learn to identifywhat flavorsare good, beer onceavailable only as acenterpiece-size

toothsome caramel core. what’sbad, what just needs time.” One early shareable bottle.Will that workadaypackag- JOURNAL, 4. Jester King SPON Al- 6. Firestone Walker Zin- experiment with Blanc du Bois grapes gaveoff ing detract from itsdistinctiveness? Alla- REET

2. Dogfish Head Bitches bariño &Blanc du Bois, Skin, 7.0% ABV “this funky, overripe-fruit smell,” Mr.Stuff- gash’sMr. Perkins believes these beersde- ST

Brew,9.0%ABV 6.7% ABV Aged on grapes for three ingssaid, “but then we drank some Sauvignon serveattention, not affectation. “When I’m LL Amix of traditional African Atruly Texanhybrid beer fer- weeks, then fermented in Blanc made with those grapes and tasted the drinking wine,it’susually out of grandma’s WA mead and English stout, mented with wild yeastand local barrels for a full year, ZinSkin same flavor.That gaveusconfidencewe juiceglasses,” he said. And he drinks these THE

this slow-burning sipper white-wine grapes, dry and emerges surprisingly light weren’t off course.” beersfromnothing morepompous than a MIN/ grooveswith chocolate grittyasthe soil, with asweet, and sprightly: a summer All these beer blends areborn of explora- short, wide-mouth glasstodirect and dis- RA and charcoal. purple-candy glow brew to sip among the vines. tion, made by brewers chasing exotic yeasts perse their aromas.“I’m practical,” he said. TIN “We’rebrewers at heart.” —William Bostwick MAR

oncelimited to cider,mead and even sake. F. P2JW203000-4-D00700-1------XA

THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. **** Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017|D7 EATING & DRINKING

ON WINE LETTIE TEAGUE HowOak Makes—Or Breaks—aWine

SOME WINE LOVERS fear it. Many winemakersoverdoit. And most ev- erywine merchant and sommelier spends lotsoftime explaining it. I’m talking about the relationship between wine and oak,aperennial hot topic in the wine world. Wine has been matured in oak barrels forcenturies,ofcourse; some of the greatest wines in the world areagedinoak,sometimes forseveral years. Yetabacklash against oak has been building for decades,and it seems to have gained momentum in recent years. Moreand morewinemakershave either reduced the time their wines spend in oak or eliminated the use of oak altogether,believing the practicecan obscurethe true taste of awine.Rioja-based winemaker Telmo Rodríguezcalled oak a“cos- metic” in arecent email to me, saying that it masks “the tasteofthe terroir”—and he’sfar from alone in his opinion. Howcould something so important be so maligned? Theright oak barrel, judiciously employed, can add character and interest, struc- tureand richnesstoared or white and even some rosés. But oak can AT

also overpowerawine if it’sapoor SERR

match, resulting in that feared and MONT maligned “oaky” wine. PEP Wine drinkersare especially wary of oakywhites,according to backed away from using large to Ron Celaya,the sales manager at Jason Jacobeit, wine director at Bâ- OAKTALK // WINE-LABEL TERMS DECODED quantities of new oak, most nota- Demptos Napa Cooperage, aFrench tard restaurant in NewYork.A bly in his Chardonnays. His single- outfitinNapa and France. “Most Chardonnayagedinnew oak will be “Aged in 100% newFrench oak.” This signals that the winemaker has vineyard Chardonnays were once winemakerswill use [new] barrels much richer than one aged in stain- spent some money, sincenew French oak barrels arecostly.The wine is likely aged for 65-70% of the time in new forthree to five years,” said Mr.Ce- lesssteel, and much darker-gold in to be full-bodied, densely-fruited and, when young, tannic. oak barrels and the rest of the laya.His companyofferswinemak- color.Burlingame,Calif.-based wine “Aged in American oak.” American oak impartsasweet vanilla notedrink- time in previously used barrels. ersa“buy back” forthe barrels and merchant Gerald Weisl said he be- erslove or loathe.Winesaged in this kind of wood tend to be softer.Popular “Now it’s more like 20% new oak,” ships them to whiskyproducers lieves that oftencustomersask for Silver OakCabernet from California is aged in American oak as aremanyRio- said Mr. Ramey. This has meant a in Scotland. a“lessoaky” Chardonnaybecause jas. American oak costsalot less,soitoften shows up in cheaper wines, too. big savings on new barrels. “My LikeMr. Knox,Mr. Celaya plays they think awine with moreoak “Aged in French and American oakbarrels.” Some winemakershedge wife, who writes all the checks, is an activerole in helping producers will be higher in alcohol. (Not true.) their betsfinancially and stylistically by using both kinds of barrel, giving the ecstatic,” he added. select the right barrel, usually tast- Theoak applied to Chardonnayis wine amoretannic structurewith the French oak and sweeter aromaticswith Yetfor him the choicewas a ing awine during various stages of invariably French oak,moreorless the American oak. stylistic rather than an economic itsdevelopment.“It comes down to the gold standardfor barrels in the one,noted Mr.Ramey.Hesimply tasting afew wines to getasense of case of both redand whitewines— preferred the way his Chardon- and itspricereflectsthat fact. A managed by the French govern- to their specifications—light to nays tasted with amorelimited newFrench oak barrel from atop ment. Fewproducersknowthe medium, medium-plus or heavy impression of oak.Bycontrast, he Some winemakers say cooperage(tonnellerie)costsaround names of the very best American toast; the process stops short of has not backed away from new $1,000,while anew American oak sources, while the five key sources outright charring—directly from oak with his Cabernet and Merlot- that oak masks the barrel costsabout $600.Though of French oak—Allier,Tronçais, the barrel producer or their barrel based Napa reds.“Those wines ‘taste of the terroir.’ barrel makerssource oak from all Nevers, Vosges and Limousin—are salesman. canabsorb it without being over- over the world—notably Russia, known to winemakersand oeno- A good barrel salesman can help whelmed,” said Mr.Ramey.Of Hungaryand Slovenia—French and philes as their names oftenappear interpret a winemaker’s vision of a course,headded, that kind of oak American oak barrels arethe two on the ends of barrels. wine. One of the best in the busi- has to be applied to denser,more what they want,” he said. If aclient most important types and they lend Each of the French forestspro- ness for decades, Mel Knox is the concentrated fruit—“hillside not is looking forasweeter profile,for some very different characteristics duces aparticular type of oak, San Francisco-based sales consul- valley floor,” in Mr.Ramey’s example,hemight recommend to wine. sourcedbytonneliersorbrokers tant to two of the top tonnelleries, terms—which has biggertannins American over French oak.But American oak tends to confer who specializeinaparticular type François Frères in Burgundy and and is substantiveenough to aboveall, agood barrel salesman moreobvious,sweet notes of va- of barrel. Abarrel is called newifit Taransaud in Cognac. Over the stand up to and thriveinnew oak. has to be able to “deconstruct” a nilla and coconut (thanks to a hasn’t previouslybeen used to hold years, Mr. Knox has acquired new Awinemaker has to have the vi- wine and to imagine howitwill higher concentration of something or agewine,but the wood used to clients after tasting wines that he sion and integrity to assesshis wine evolveovertime. called lactones in the American spe- makeabarrel ages fortwo,three or felt needed his help and paying the accurately.And of course the wine Fortunately oenophiles don’t cies of wood), while tighter-grained even four years—the longer the ag- winemakers discreet calls. has to be worth the investment of have to deconstruct the wines they French oak contributes morere- ing the mellowerthe wood—before Mr. Knox has probably sold manynew $1,000 barrels each year. drink to knowifthey’retoo oaky. strained savory-spicynotes. becoming abarrel. more barrels to top winemakers in This last fact is especially impor- Even in ayoung wine,the oak Thedifferences between Ameri- “Toasting” describes the pro- California than anyone else in the tant sincethe worth of anew barrel should never stand out toomuch. A canand French oak actually start cess of flavoring a barrel and also business—including stars like drops precipitously afterit’sused— well-made wine is always balanced, with the foreststhemselves.In reducing the astringency of the Steve Kistlerand David Ramey. much likeanew carafter it’sdriven whether fermented and aged in oak America, the foreststhat supply oak by placing the newly-made Mr. Ramey, a Sonoma-based wine- off the dealer’s lot. or not. barrel wood areprivately owned; barrel directly over a flame. Wine- maker, probably knows as much Aused French or American oak the French oak forestsare mostly makers can order barrels toasted about barrels as Mr. Knox. He’s barrel is worth about $20 according  Email Lettie at [email protected].

SLOW FOOD FAST SATISFYING AND SEASONAL FOOD IN ABOUT 30 MINUTES

Grilled Okra With Spiced Yogurt, Peanuts and Mint HOEWELER

ACOUPLE YEARS ago, when Steven Sat- Food Fast contribution, comes from. It MICHAEL terfield waswriting his cookbook “Root to starsgrilled okra, nestled intoalemon-yo- BY ION

Leaf,” the publisher nixed achapter de- gurt spread spiced with cumin and corian- AT votedtopeanutsatthe last minute. “It der.Generous handfuls of toasted peanuts TR US

wasdeemed toocolloquial,” said Mr.Sat- and torn mint arescattered overtop. ILL terfield. “The book wasmeant to have na- “Grilled okragetsanicegreen-bean tex- A;

tional appeal.” But the Savannah-born, At- ture and abit of smokinessfromthe grill,” CUEV lanta-based chef couldn’t let it go;he said Mr.Satterfield. If you’rewaryofthe NIDIA

knows howversatile and appealing this viscous quality okracan have,takeheart: BY Southern staple canbe. So he presented This quick-cooking technique produces the jettisoned recipes to another publisher, crisp-tender resultswithout that familiar YLING ST

The Chef Short Stack Editions,and four months ago ooze. But it’sthe crunch of the toasted OP Steven Satterfield his “Peanuts” cookbook hit the shelves. peanutsthat really gives this quick sum- PR That’swherethis recipe,his final Slow mertime recipe snap. —Kitty Greenwald OM, His Restaurant MELDR Miller Union in TOTAL TIME: 20 minutes SERVES: 4

Atlanta, Ga. THER 1cup whole Greek yogurt 1teaspoon coriander seeds, 3tablespoons oliveor HEA What He’s 1large garlic clove toastedand coarsely peanut oil, plus BY

Known For 1lemon smashed morefor drizzling YLING 1 ST A deep affinity for 1teaspoon cumin seeds, 1teaspoon pepper flakes /2 cup roughly chopped dry- OD

vegetable cookery, toastedand coarsely Kosher salt roastedpeanuts FO 1 from root to stem. smashed 1pound freshokra /3 cup torn freshmint Inventive dishes that seem timeless 1. Submerge several6-inch wooden skewersin tips, creating asecureplank of skewered pods. JOURNAL,

watertosoak. Preheat agrill. Repeat with remaining skewersand okra, leav- REET ST

2. Placeyogurt in amedium bowl. Useafine ing about 1inch of bareskewerateach end. LL

grater to grategarlic and lemon zest overyo- 4. Brush both sidesofokrawith oil and sprin- WA

gurt. Halvelemon and squeeze one half into kle with salt. Placeokraskewers on hot grill THE R

yogurt. Addcumin, coriander,red pepper flakes and cook until okrabegins to char,about 2 FO and season with salt and morelemon juice, if minutes.Flip and grill oppositeside until needed. Stir to combine and refrigerateuntil charred, about 2minutes more. Transfer grilled GARDNER

ready to use. okratoaplatter and discardskewers. N 3. Threadaskewerthrough 4-6 okrapods just 5. To serve, spreadyogurt sauceoveraserving YA BR belowcaps. Threadasecond skewer through platter or individual plates.Drizzle with oil and FLAME CATCHER Okraquick-charred on the grill has asmokyflavor, a 1 the same pods, about /2 inch from the tapered topwith okra. Garnish with peanutsand mint. satisfying biteand none of the oozy aspectthat slow-stewedokracan have. P2JW203000-4-D00800-1------XA

D8 | Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. DESIGN & DECORATING Bloomin’ Shames

Fourteen designprosvoicevery strong opinions, both scathing and affirming, on summer flowers

Beloved Mr.Rolstonappreciates the BY CATHERINE ROMANO deep purple and pink of the banana blossom as well as itsuncommon sil- KNOWIT’SWRONG to de- houette. test apoor innocent little flower, but....” So demurred Loathed “Unless you’re one of the design pros we trying to re-create I approached when compiling the colorsofSwit- alist of least-favoriteblooms.Even zerland in summer, the most diplomatic designers, flo- impatiens arehard ristsand architectshaveprefer- to use well in al- ences,however. Some blossoms mostany garden,” please,some bring on bad memo- said M. Brian Tichenor, ries.Ofthe widely disdained sun- of Tichenor and Thorp Architects,in flower, KeyBiscayne-based designer LosAngeles. Despitethis drawback, James Duncan said: “It reminds me impatiens prevail, he said, because of lurid 1970s kitchens and tacky theygrow“justabout anywhere.” fall decorations.” Here, picks from Beloved “Weuse awide varietyof 12 other aesthetic experts. succulents,”said Mr.Tichenor,“which

mostpeople don’tthink of as flowering. AN The latestfavoriteisecheveria ‘Doris AJ Loathed “I really Ta ylor,’ with itscadmium redflower.” GAR NA

dislikezinnias, A

which arepretty Loathed “Forsythia is VIDHY

common in plant this glaring, egg-yolk BY

beds in Houston,” yellowthat arrives ION AT

said Paloma Contre- early and therefore TR

ras,aTexasinterior de- has only brown, US ILL

signer.“Theydon’tlook very delicate, gray bark to sit );

and the colorsare toobright and gar- with,”noted Annie ERS

ish formytaste.” Selke,whose eponymous OW Beloved “I’ve recently come around on company, based in Pittsfield, Mass., (FL baby’sbreath,” she said. “For years, it’s sells rugs, linens and furniture. “If it GES been regarded as aloathsome filler came out with moregreen around it, IMA I’dprobably have amuch morefavor- flower, but when youarrange big GETTY bunchestogether,the result is super able view.” chic and fresh.” Beloved Ms. Selkecould not settle on the boyfriend and developed alifelong pink-floweredplantswith matching “Spectacular bright purple tuftsof one: “Peonies fortheir shape,color and aversion to carnations.” hot-pink tin foil wrapping their plastic flowers open from the topdownona Loathed “Nothing says justinfrom scent; lily of the valley forits delicacy Beloved Ms. Wood prefers ranunculus. pots. Theynolonger looked likeliving tall spike,”she said. the supermarket and out of the cello- and scent; and ranunculus, forthe “The layers and layers of soft petals things. We would get my mom one phane likethe unimaginative pink star- complexityofpetals and the fantastic givethe floweradreamlikequality,” nevertheless.” Loathed “I find the gazer lily bouquet,”said Michael Am- colorsitcomesin,”she said. she said. Beloved “Bright pink enormous peo- smell of Casablanca ato,creativedirectorofthe Urban nies arebold and elegant and fun.” liliessickening, and Electric Company, who adds this de- Loathed “Orchids arearare, special Loathed “Generally,the flowers Idon’t theyremind me of scription: “Pointyruffled petals, speck- breed, asmall treasure,”said NewYork likeare those that areoverused,”said Loathed “Cana lilies death,”said New led interior—the combination makes designer Frank de Biasi.“My favorite Stephen Block,president of Inner Gar- have long, shaggy Yo rk designer Philip them look likeadiseased tongue.” is the lady slipper,especially when dens in LosAngeles. “WilshireBoule- stems from which Gorrivan.“My mother is Beloved “I grew up in NewEngland, seen in the wilds in Virginia, whereI vard in LosAngeles, forexample,has sprout relatively from Casablanca, so Ialwaysgrew and daffodils alwaysmeant spring was grew up.” But the whiteorchid,inits milesofbeds overflowing with pink im- small, usually them. But she doesn’tlikethem either.” here,”hesaid. “And my grandfather ubiquity, recalls “banal, cookie-cutter patiens.Iambored to tears.” harshly vivid flowers,” Beloved “Foxglove arequintessential called them narcissus, their proper high-rise condo buildings,“ he said. Beloved A flower’s comeliness de- said Jeffry Weisman,of English garden flowers,” he said. “My name,sotheymakemethink of him.” Beloved The purple flowers of the Ver- pends upon its context, said Mr. SanFrancisco-based Fisher Weisman. favorites arevibrant pink.” bena bonariensis recently planted on Block. “That same pink impatiens in a “Theynever blend intoagarden.” Loathed “Gerbera his terrace“makefor abeautiful ar- pretty black planter can be striking Beloved “For my 40th birthdaymy Loathed “The mustard of a sun- daisiesare revolt- rangement—chic and airy with amind and beautiful.” husband terraced ahillside on our flower’s petals, combined with ing—loud, cloying, of their ownand perfectly contrasted Sonoma propertyand planted 400 rose the brown centers, are not tones obvious and gar- with all the green in our apartment.” Loathed “The colors bushes.Ispent mostweekends over I would normally go with,” said Los ish,”said Adam of azaleas aretoo the next decade happily toiling there.” Angeles florist Eric Buterbaugh, Rolston of INC Ar- Loathed “The ruffled edgesofthe strident, the overall whose clients include Beyoncé and chitecture&Design, in carnation remind me of aruffled tux- form of the plant Loathed “Begonias aremissing the To m Ford. “And their thick, prickly NewYork. “Andy Warhol wrecked that edo shirt that has been wadded up ungraceful and the organic natureand soul that Ilove stems make them hard to arrange flowerfor me in his 1980s seriesof and thrownonthe floor,” said Leslie ratio of flowers to foli- about so manyflowerand plant spe- with other flowers.” them. He could hold amirror up to our Hendrix Wood,aMidland, Texas, de- age tooequal,”said Joan cies,”said Laurie Blumenfeld-Russo, Beloved “Peonies.The fragrance, the worstvulgaritiesand makeushate signer.“Aboyfriend in high school sent Dineen of Manhattan’sDineen Archi- of Brooklyn firm LBR Home.“The size, the colors, the wayevery dayit ourselves forit. In this case,Ijust me amake-up bouquet of carnations tectureand Design. “On Mother’sDay, waxy leaves look plastic.“ looks alittle different—it truly is the ended up hating Gerberadaisies.“ after we had aterrible fight. Idumped everywhereone looked were scrawny Beloved Liatris tops the designer’slist. queen of all flowers.”

THE MEDIATOR DECK-CHAIR DEADLOCK

The conflict: He wants to bring a contemporary, leather-accented lounger into their outdoor space. She’s not parting with her tradition-tinged patio bench. Three designers conduct the décor equivalent of couples counseling, suggesting all-weather accessories—from a pillow to a rug—to bridge the aesthetic gap

SOLUTION 1 Throw in an anti-geometric pillow. The organic flame- stitch pattern of this ikat cushion would soften the hard linesofthe seating, said Bostondesigner Erin Gates, whose instinctistomakethe at-odds furniturepairing less rigid without introducing acutesypattern. The pillow also combinesthe two pieces’colors. “I would put it on the chaise to bring the redtone over,”she said. Fiamma Ikat Flame Outdoor Pillow, $159, frontgate.com

SOLUTION 2 Massimo Castagna 10th Sun Lounger by Exteta, $9,795, DDC, 212-685-0800 Introduceathirdcompletely different style. “Asinany combination, three makes it perfect,”said Francine Monaco, of NewYork firm D’Aquino Monaco. She recommends bringing in all three of these quirkytablestointroduceathird disparatetheme.Result: atruly eclectic grouping, not adispute. The various heightsofthe tablesalso let youme- diatethe conflicting levels of the chaise and settee.Ludovica+Roberto Palomba Paraggi Ta blesbyExteta, from $1,568each, DDC, 212-685-0800

SOLUTION 3 Amp up the linear theme. Twostriped pieces?Add a third. SanFranciscodesigner Nicole Hollis recommends this polypropylene rug by Christopher Farr,aformer graphic artist. “The pattern of the rug tiesinthe stripesofthe sofa’sfabric and the irregular blocking of the lounge,” said Ms. Hollis. The seats’ colors, deep azureand crimson, team up in the rug, which is big enough to corral the furniture’sdissonant personalities Dimore Studio Pantelleria Sofa, $8,075, thefutureperfect.com in a“room.”Asawa BespokeOutdoor Rug, $8,500 for 8-by-10-foot rug, Christopher Farr,310-967-0064 —C.R. P2JW203000-4-D00900-1------XA

THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. **** Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017|D9 GEAR & GADGETS

RUMBLE SEAT DANNEIL DodgeUnleashes aDrag-Racing Demon

BECAUSE DRAG RACERS liketoget uum cleaner ingesting asock.The to the finish line fast: The2018 instrument displayflashed: 10.8 sec- DodgeDemon ($86,090) is a onds.I’ll take it. wheelie-pulling,840-hp version of Away from the drag strip,the De- the DodgeChallenger,extensively mon is aprettyweirdand fetishy re-engineered forquarter-mile rac- automobile,starting with itspara- ing and offered as sizzle forthe militarystanceonthose 315/40 brand’saging,underselling steak. slicks and 18-inch black rims.Cops Mmmm, smell those roasted of the futuresurelook tough. meats. TheDemon is hella heavy:4,250 Last winter the National Hot Rod pounds at itslightest, i.e.,wearing Association (NHRA) certified aquar- the skinnyfront wheels and with the ter-mile E.T. (elapsed time) of 9.65 passenger seatsremoved. One engi- seconds with atrapspeed of 140 neer at the pressevent had the gall mph, making this rocket-propelled to utterthe phrase “massoptimiza- pachyderm the quickest production tion.” Youcad. carthe organization had ever tested, Theoretically, the Demon may exceeding even the all-electric Tesla offer the plushest highway ride in Model S, which, by the way,islousy the Dodge inventory, what with its at wheelies.The Demon joltsto100 tall sidewall tires and super-soft mph in an eye-crossing 5.1seconds. suspension to aid weight transfer Also,according to Guinness (more vehicle squat equals more World Records,the Demon is the holeshot traction). But cornering? firstproduction carcapable of pull- After my first pass I let the 2-ton ing awheelie off the line.Ifyou feel car roll through to the shutdown a“why” coming,no. Thereisno area to reach the last turnout. As I why. was braking and turning left, the These displays requirefavorable Demon’s body sloshed diagonally weather conditions and ahighly pre- like it was a 1970 Chrysler New- pared drag strip,both of which RIDING HIGH The 2018 Dodge port. Dodgearranged forlast week at Lu- Challenger SRT Demon, shod To cut weight, the Demon does casOil Raceway in Indianapolis.The with skinny front racing wheels, use a smaller front sway bar and

cars were making powerand hook- at the Lucas Oil Raceway in C brakes than the Hellcat, but cus- LL

ing up nicely,thank you. Inciden- Indianapolis. US tomers are free to lard back up. tally,and not to throw shade at the A The front passenger seat, rear seat FC Demon’sproduction-car record,I and trunk-carpet kit are all $1 op- would liketoput drag slicks and slicks.Ithink these clip-ons look like version of the cabin A/Cmakes all Averitable spasm of now. Thecar tions. You can order this car with gobs of traction compound on the hell, myself.Considering the De- kinds of sense,but sinceyou have to seat slammed me from behind with heated and cooled leather seats all-wheel-drive, 1,500-hp Bugatti mon’spricetag and the production roll the windows up to race,the De- an acceleration of about 1.8g.Such and a 18-speaker/900-watt audio Chiron and see what happens.The volume,these flares should have mon canget abit clammyonthe extreme forces reveal humans in all system. The sunroof is a $4,995 op- thing would take off likeabelt been stamped out of steel, but Fiat line.Itwas about 90 degrees in Indi- their semi-gelatinous corporeality.I tion. I wonder how the NHRA feels sander. Chrysler Automobiles wouldn’t lay anapolis.Iused my balaclava to could feel belly fat surging toward about those? TheDemon is unique: amass-pro- out forthe tooling. wipe down the interior forthe next my neck. And the fact that the Demon’s duced, street-to-strip racing ma- TheDemon’sgenius lies in itsen- driver. Thevast hood reared up in front front passenger seat is optional is so chine,completewith taffy-soft gagement with American drag-rac- This world-historical pokegets of me and didn’t level off until the poignant. slicks,nolessthan aturnkey opera- ing cultureand itsrootsinhonorific channeled through arace-reinforced carhad executed three perfect up- Anybody wanna go for aride? tion foramateurs, enthusiastsand dueling.For OEMs,this is largely drivetrain: upsized torque converter, shifts and waswhining likeavac- Anybody? poseurs. EveryDemon will come unoccupied emotionalterritory. The driveshaft, rear differential (3.07fi- with itsown Demon Craterace-day staging lights, the wheelies,the nal-driveratio) andhalf-shafts.Per- tool chest (a $1 option), including hateful cumulus of tiresmokeenvel- haps the Demon’smost amazing fea- floor jack,cordlessimpact driver, oping the burnout box—to Boomers ture is afactorywarranty. torque wrench, as well as the two the Demon looks likeHeaven. Rolling through the waterinthe skinnyfront wheels that getthrown Dodge’sprevious assault on de- burnout box, Iclamped the brakes on oncethe driver is at the track. cencywas the 707-hp Challenger with my leftfoot and goosed the (Hereafterand unlessotherwise SRTHellcat in 2014. TheDemon throttle.(TheDemon does have a noted, everything is Demon- takesthe Hellcat to darker places line-lock feature forassisted burn- branded). still. Under what Dodgesays is the outs, but it’sfiddly,soIskipped it.) largest functional hood scoop in Thesuperchargerscreamed. The production, youwill find the most car’sback end stood up.Smoke powerful V8 engine ever stuffed in pouring off the melting rear tires This rocket-propelled an OEM car: the supercharged6.2-li- whited out the sky. OK,the tires are pachyderm the quickest terV8, producing 808 hp and 717lb- officially warm. ft of torque,and that’sjust on 91 oc- TheDemon is also the firstpro- production car the NHRA tane pump gas. duction cartouse atrans-brakefor had ever tested, exceeding Fill up with 100 octane racing launch control. This system brake- fuel, and max powerrises to 840 hp holds the output shaftofthe 8- 2018 DODGE CHALLENGER SRT DEMON even the Tesla Model S. at 6,300 rpm and 770lb-ftoftorque. speed transmission while engine Oy! Thereisaspecial switch in the rpm spools up.Oncethe trans-brake center-stack to remap the engine- is set, all the driver needs to do is Ty pe Front-engine,rear-drivesports 840 hp at 6,300 rpm/770lb-ft (100 It’snot clear howmanyofthe management software.Two dual- release asingle paddle shifterand coupe octane) 3,300 Demons produced annually in stagefuel pumps and high-flowin- continue to scream normally.Asal- Price, as tested $86,090 Length/height/width Ontario,Canada, will ever boil them jectorspour gasonthis exquisite ways, go on yellow. Powertrain Intercooled and super- 197.5/57.4/78.8 inches baloneys. Forstarry-eyed collectors, fire. Iexecuted the trans-brakese- charged 6.2-liter DOHC V8; eight- Weight/wheelbase 4,250 the carmay be likethe good couch Crowning the engine bay, making quenceasinstructed, moreorless, speed automatic transmission with pounds/116.2 inches that grandma keeps the plastic on. itsown cyclonic weather,isa2.7-li- setting rpm around 1600 rpm—opti- manual-shift mode and trans-brake- 0-60 mph 2.3 seconds Speaking of plastic: It is not the tersuperchargerrunning at 14.5 psi mum, given the track’sadhesion, I style launch control; rear-wheel drive Quarter-mile ET 9.65 seconds monster engine that makes the De- max boost. Get this: In Drag mode, wastold. Oncestaged, the Demon’s (3.09:1rear-axle ratio) EPAfuel economy 13/22/16 (city/ mon program possible but the the car’sair conditioning system is stupendous V8 rattled likeame- Horsepower/torque 808 hp at highway/combined wheel-arch extensions that shroud, used to chill intakeair (cooler air dium machine gun. Ireleased the 6,300 rpm /717 lb-ft (91 octane gas); Luggage capacity 13.4 cubic feet just barely,the foot-wide Nitto drag makes morehorsepower). This di- paddle shifter.

TECH ESSENTIALS

We cut grass at the ballpark two times a day using the To ro Reelmaster NICOLE SHERRY 3100-D. With eight separate blades on each reel, it has an almost scissor-type of cut, unlike the rotary mower you would use at home, which spins clockwise. If you have a really jagged cut or your blades are dull, it The Baltimore Orioles’ head groundskeeper can cause infection in the grass by creating a point of entry for on keeping the stadium’s 2.25 acres of fungus to get into the plant and destroy it. The Reelmaster pro- Kentucky bluegrass perfectly green vides a healthy, straight-edge cut.

Weather is ahuge part of my day. We A Leatherman Wing- My main job during the I’mherefrom9:30 in the morning until an hour and a use aradar subscription servicecalled dtn man is on me all the game is to monitor the half after every game.I’m outside for10hoursaday WeatherSentry that tells me the dew time.Ithas abunch of radar and makesure straight, so sunglassesand sunscreen arevery impor- point, humidity, wind speed and “evapo- tools—I use the pliers that we’reready forany tant. Right nowI’m wearing Maui Jim Blue Hawaii transpiration” rate—which is howmuch or the blade if Ineed storms that could pos- Mavericks sunglasses.For sunscreen, Ilike Neutro- waterthe grasscould be losing in aday. to cut out dead ma- sibly impactthe play- gena UltraSheer Dry-To uch Sunscreen BroadSpec- I’mlooking at it from the time Iwakeup terial [from the abilityofthe surfaceor trum SPF 70. It to when Igotobed and all throughout grass] or fix our fans. I’malso moni- doesn’tfeel CREEN) the daybecause it canchange drastically an irrigation toring weather.com toogreasy. Ijusthaveto

SUNS from one moment to the next. head. and NOAA.gov, a be mindful to reapply government weather all the time.You can’t servicethat provides justput it on once. forecasts, discussions

(THERMOMETER, and warnings. It’s asite Another important tool that we use is the AcuRite that anybody canac- 00661 Soil Thermometer, which helps us keep an cess.Thereare differ- JOURNAL eye on how hot our soil is. Any time the tempera- ent satelliteradarsand At home,Iuse a Husqvarna HU700F Walk Behind REET ture is over 65 degrees, you have prime conditions detailed weather fore- Mower.Ithas agood engine,iswell built and ST

LL for disease for the field’s Kentucky bluegrass. Yo u castsrelated to air,sea, canget up the enormous hill in my back-

WA can cool the soil down with water, but you have to and land travel. It has yard.Nobody wantstogohome and watch it, because too much water can cause disease deeper information cut grasswhen theyhavetime

MIN/THE as well. It’s really a fine line between too much and than Ican find on any off,but Idon’tmind it RA too little, too hot and too cold. It’s something that you consumer sites. —Edited from an interview TIN have to monitor a couple of times a day. by Chris Kornelis MAR F. P2JW203000-4-D01000-1------XA

D10 | Saturday/Sunday, July 22 - 23, 2017 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL.