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Most-ViewedThe ShowsInside: Pg. 17 BANANA REPUBLIC HITS LONDON/3 ASME FINALISTS/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TThehe RRetailers’THURSDAYetailers’ DaDailyaily NeNNewspaperewsw pap pep r • March 20, 2008 • $2.00 List Lean Machine Leather were all the rage on the Paris streets during collections, and designers on this side of the pond are right on trend with their own versions for fall. Here, Miss Sixty’s cotton , Mark and Estel’s cotton T- and Blue Notch’s cotton and polyester leggings. Body chain from Low Luv by Erin Wasson; clutch from The Jack Rabbit Collection; Silpada ring. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Guess Does It Again: Brand’s Profits Soar, Retail Rollout Ahead By Jeanine Poggi urmoil in the financial markets, the ASHION ASSISTANT: AYSE CUETO; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY CUETO; STYLED BY AYSE ASHION ASSISTANT: Tweak dollar, rising unemployment, soaring gas prices and sagging consumer confidence aside, there are a few brands out there still expanding aggressively — and Guess Inc. is one of them. The specialty retailer reported strong results on Wednesday and revealed plans to open 245 stores in the current fiscal year, including 185 internationally and 60 in the U.S. The retail expansion comes on of opening 184 stores last year. “We strongly believe we have See Guess, Page 9 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: KATIE/MAJOR; HAIR BY KATY YUNG; MAKEUP BY SOUHI LEE AT DE FACTO FOR GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY; F FOR GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY; DE FACTO SOUHI LEE AT YUNG; MAKEUP BY KATY HAIR BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: KATIE/MAJOR; PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear ™ A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Tough with a hard rocker vibe are the perfect match for fall’s on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 6 selection of long, lean leggings. GENERAL EASY-PEASY Guess Inc.’s fourth-quarter earnings soared 20.3 percent to $55.2 Daytime Bring a Dash of Uncomplicated Charm to Spring 1 million, while sales jumped 30.3 percent to $488.1 million. Banana Republic opens on London’s Regent Street today in what will be It’s 7 a.m. The clock is ticking and the idea of Popular styles at H&M right now include 3 a litmus test for further expansion of the brand across Europe. mixing and matching an impeccable work ensemble the volume , the couture-inspired dress and is, shall we say, daunting. Enter one of this season’s the tunic. EYE: Audrey Tautou charmed American audiences in “Amélie” and reveals a more conniving side in “Priceless,” which opens in the U.S. next week. romantic daytime dresses. At Una, a boutique in Portland, OR, owner Gio- 4 “The of dressing in dresses can’t be beat,” says vanna Parolari says dresses comprise most of the A group of 15 current and former female employees fi led a class action Tim Gunn, chief creative officer at Liz Claiborne items in her store right now. “I try to make my 5 against Sterling Jewelers charging a pattern of discrimination. Inc., and veteran mentor on Bravo dress choices elegant and com- LETTERS: The economy, credit markets and the courts are challenges, TV’s “Project Runway,” who adds fortable at the same time,” Paro- 10 but nothing, including a tornado, can stop development in . that dresses are very important for lari says. “Here in Portland, it Groupe Clarins’ Thierry Mugler Parfums unit signed a worldwide license the label this spring. “Especially seems like they’ve always been the 18 deal to produce beauty products for Austrian crystal giant Swarovski. in warmer weather when all you thing to wear, despite the rainy need is a dress, and a bag, weather. Women wear them to Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19 and you’re out the door.” parties and they wear them to the To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Uncomplicated apparel grocery store. You can throw on [email protected], using the individual’s name. choices are extremely valuable to a dress with Wellingtons (rain WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT women, considering 60% select or shoes) to dress it down, ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. their when they wake or put on heels and go out some- VOLUME 195, NO. 1. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with up, rather than before they go where nice.” one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of to sleep the night, according to Parolari stocks Una with Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle dresses made of mostly of all- by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ Monitor™. “In warmer weather … all you need natural fibers, including a shiny Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications The appeal of daytime dresses is a dress, shoes and a bag, and cotton navy piece from Rodebjer Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: is long-appreciated. To wit, an you’re out the door.” with buttons running down the return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: item from The New York Times front, and brightly colored and SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA — Tim Gunn, 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE reads: “Natty little frocks in cotton Liz Claiborne & Bravo TV’s patterned styles from Catherine INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new voiles, some of them semi-tailored “Project Runway” Andre. The prevalence of cotton subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production and close fitting, are proving very options is in keeping with Monitor correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, popular with women generally…. It is thought that data that reveals the majority of women (about 61%) please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list the vogue of last Summer is going to last through are willing to pay more for natural fibers such as available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. another season.” The item is dated April, 1918, yet cotton. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA could very well be describing modern trends. At Liz Claiborne, a bevy of spring dresses are made 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, This spring, day styles include , belted of cotton. Gunn says that while the different designs BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED sheaths, dresses that come in prints or solids, appeal to a woman’s mindset, rather than her age, MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR bold brights and muted natural tones. Overlays, cro- there are styles that are appropriate for everyone. DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY chet details and lace trim add to their femininity. “Shifts, which expose arms, can work for younger A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Milly designer Michelle Smith sees dresses as the women, while a interpreted in a seasonal quick and simple option for women pressed for time. color or modern print can be more appropriate for “Dresses are very easy to wear,” she says. “You just more mature women,” he explains. one on; you don’t need to coordinate a whole outfit. Liz Claiborne’s dresses range from clean shifts to In Brief I think women appreciate this.” flowing shirred models, in bold graphic prints and Smith also points out that her daytime dresses bright solids. are retailing very well this spring because feminine “Regardless of the style, we are always mindful ● PROXY FIGHT AT DILLARD’S: Barington Capital Group and colorful looks are trending of the principles of silhouette, on Wednesday said it notifi ed Dillard’s Inc. that it will nomi- nate four people for election to the retailer’s 12-member right now. Popular Milly When Do Women Select proportion and fit,” Gunn board. Barington represents a group of investors that control styles this season include the Clothing for the Day? says. about 5.6 percent of the company’s Class A stock. The group hand-beaded hibiscus print These days, part of having Before go to sleep 36% of investors also includes Clinton Group Inc. According to shift, a sleeveless yellow knit the right fit means offering Barington, the move is being initiated because of a lack of dress with bead detail on the When you wake up 60% a wide range of sizes. The confi dence in Dillard’s current board to improve shareholder neckline, and a strapless navy Monitor statistics show that value. Barington pointed out that Dillard’s stock price fell by dress with gold chain detail. Changes in Women's Sizes: most women (29%) say their 54 percent from June 30, 2007, through the close of trading on March 18, representing a loss of $1.6 billion to shareholders. H&M spokesperson Jen- Size 0-6: 25% current dress size is from 7 to Barington’s nominees include James Mitarola, the chairman, nifer Uglialoro says daytime 11. Following are those sized 7-11: 29% president and chief executive offi cer of Barington; Charles dresses have been in focus 0 to 6 (25%). About 22% say Elson, a corporate governance expert and professor; Nick for about a year now. The 12-14: 22% they’re dress size is 12 to 14, White, a former Wal-Mart Inc. executive, and Eric Salus, a trend continues this year with and 21% say they’re 15+. former senior executive with Federated Department Stores. the addition of two-piece 15+: 21% Milly’s Smith says the dress Dillard’s confi rmed receipt of the notifi cation and said it was dresses and . “It’s femi- trend is strong, as she’s offering forwarded to the board’s executive committee. nine and stylish, versatile, comfortable – daytime- as many day dresses this season as last. Her target ● TARRANT SETTLING UP: Tarrant Apparel Group will pay a comfortable over or khakis, and with customer ranges from 16-to-45 years old, and dif- total of $14 million to the Internal Revenue Service for back and high heels it works perfectly for dinner or more ferent styles appeal to the different women in this taxes, interest and penalties covering the seven years ended formal work situations,” she says. group. How and where they wear them is a varied as 2002. Under the terms of the settlement, the Los Angeles-based The Monitor finds that the majority of women the garments themselves. Says Smith, “ Work, lun- private label apparel producer will pay $4 million immediately (37%) wear clothes that are “business-like with cheons, out for dinner, weekend parties, shopping… and $250,000 a month until the balance is paid off. The com- freedom” to work, allowing plenty of leeway for the there is a day dress for every occasion." pany, which previously disclosed the audits, does not expect to myriad of dresses to be found in stores. record any additional charges against income beyond the inter- est on the outstanding balance. Uglialoro says this season’s dresses differentiate This story is one in a series of articles based on find- themselves by being more voluminous and in some ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ ● VUITTON MOVE: Louis Vuitton North America appointed cases longer than previous seasons. Women can tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Eyde Steinberg as senior vice president, human resources, wear them, “at work, school, weekends, dinner pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it effective May 1. Steinberg is currently senior vice president, – anywhere. Most styles work from day into eve- relates to the American consumer and her attitudes human resources, at LVMH Inc., which she joined in 1996. In ning depending on styling and accessories. Many and behavior regarding clothing, that role, she is responsible for areas such as executive re- women wear their dresses over for function appearance, fashion, fiber selection and cruitment and development for the Americas, as well as man- aging LVMH’s corporate training programs. At Louis Vuitton, and comfort.” many other timely, relevant subjects. Steinberg will replace Carol Pearson, who is expected to take a position with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in Europe. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 3 WWD.COM Banana Republic’s London Opening

By Lucie Greene Republic has always been known here, particularly by people who travel,” said Deborah Fitzgerald, marketing director at Interbrand. “It’s an interesting time in the LONDON — Banana Republic opens here today in what will be a litmus test for fur- U.K., too, because people are turning away from cheap fast fashion to more premium ther expansion of the Gap Inc.-owned brand across Europe. The new store launch middle-ground brands, and Banana Republic sits perfectly within that category.” will also mark the global debut of the limited edition women’s wear collection, The new store occupies the corner of the former historic Dickens & Jones building Monogram. on Regent Street, and spans 17,000 square feet over three fl oors. “I’ve been working for Gap Inc. for several years, and the most frequently asked Borzyszkowska declined to give sales projections, but real estate sources said the question is: ‘When will Banana Republic move here?’” said Anita Borzyszkowska, vice annual rent is about 1 million pounds, or $2 million at current exchange. president of public relations at Gap Inc. The store offers the complete Banana Republic range of men’s and women’s wear, “It has the biggest brand recognition already in the U.K., particularly in London.” with the latter making up roughly 60 per cent of the space. In addition, there are dedi- Borzyszkowska stressed the launch was a tentative step for Banana Republic in cated sections for petites, accessories and beauty. the European market, and that any subsequent rollout plans would depend on the Monogram men’s and women’s wear sections are also a key element. The lim- response to the London debut. ited edition line, which focuses on pared-down styles in luxurious fabrics such as She said she was confi dent about the offering: “The clothes are a little more of an cashmere and silk gabardine, began exclusively as a men’s line two seasons ago. For investment, but are still accessible. We offer a great service proposition, too. It’s ‘high spring, it will be a 30-piece collection for both men and women. street premium.’” “It’s for our customers who want that extra bit of luxury,” said Borzyszkowska. Industry fi gures are enthusiastic as well about the brand’s arrival. “Banana Prices at the store range from 35 pounds, or $70 at current exchange, for a women’s bracelet, to 95 pounds, or $190, for a silk dress. Banana Republic Monogram’s prices range from 49 pounds, or $98, in London. for a women’s , to 300 pounds, or $600, for a long leather for evening. Men’s collec- tions will mirror these price levels. Borzyszkowska said prices are moderately higher than in the U.S. to account for the higher costs of operating in the U.K. The look of the store is warm and elegant with neutral colors on the walls, dark wood laminate counters and display islands and a dramatic spi- ral staircase in the corner. Lining the staircase are photo prints cu- rated by London’s Michael Hoppen Gallery. They feature black-and-white shots of Winston Churchill, the Empire State Building and Jackie Kennedy. Throughout, the space has been made intimate with Art Deco furniture, Richard Serra prints and various objets. “We’ve been working with lots of London talent to create the fi nal look,” said Borzyszkowska. “But it’s still in keeping with the Banana Republic look.” A key emphasis of the store will be on service, with a concierge service to book restaurants and deliver purchases to customers’ hotels, multilin- gual staff and in-store stylists. Stephen Sunnucks, president of Gap Inc. Europe, said: “With its affi nity for fashion and luxury products, London has the potential to be a strong market for Banana Republic. This is an exciting fi rst step for Banana Republic in Europe.”

TEARS AND LAUGHTER: independent magazine launched by a group of idealistic Angeles wearing plaid bondage pants. It was high noon (and well-funded) twentysomethings, was nominated twice “It’s a low rent ‘Madame Bovary,’” Doonan said. Wednesday and in its fi rst full year of existence, and Raffi Khatchadourian’s Casting is taking place now, and Doonan plans to leave MEMO PAD time for that fi rst-ever byline in The New Yorker, written while he was the choice of lead characters to Plowman. Those close to annual ritual: the a fact-checker there, was nominated for profi le writing. him need not fret of being lampooned on the small screen, announcement of the American Society of Magazine He wrote about the fi rst American charged with treason in however. “The main character is called Simon, but the Editors’ National Magazine Award fi nalists — causing over 50 years. others have been morphed and evolved and extrapolated editors to either avoid rivals’ gazes for the rest of the day Other fi rst-time nominees included Domino and The to protect the innocent,” Doonan said. “It’s not a poetic, or to shamelessly gloat at least until the actual winners are New York Times Magazine, which received a total of six literal dramatic rendering of my life. They took my book revealed on May 1. nominations for the main weekly and its T style and Play and used it as a springboard, with the trajectory of coming And while there were the usual suspects this time spin-offs. The Times magazine was eligible because ASME from a crap town and ending up in the glamour and round — The New Yorker, Vanity Fair, National Geographic moved to include newspaper supplements for the fi rst fabulousness of fashion.” Could this become the “Are You — there were enough surprises to make things interesting time this year, a controversial decision since some point Being Served?” of the 21st century? — Marc Karimzadeh come the black-tie ceremony at Jazz at Lincoln Center. out the title isn’t distributed on the newsstand and thus Look at Radar and Portfolio, two titles that face skepticism is not subject to the same commercial pressures as other MAKEOVER: Reed Elsevier may be shopping around Reed among media watchers, but that evidently more than pass magazines. It also is, unlike its National Magazine Award Business Information, publisher of titles like Variety, but muster among the peer judges for the awards. Radar, a peers, dually eligible for a Pulitzer. — Irin Carmon the B2B division is doing some shopping of its own and magazine that is in its third permutation, was nominated has snapped up French trade press group Cosmédias. for the fi rst time in the prestigious general excellence SCREEN SIREN: Simon Doonan’s own life story — WWD previously reported speculation that Reed Elsevier category, for circulation between 100,000 and 250,000. immortalized in his memoir “Nasty: My Family and Other had inked a Cosmédias deal. Portfolio, the Condé Nast startup that has been beset with Glamorous Varmints” — has had more than a few fashion RBI plans to develop Cosmédias’ Internet activities bad press, was nominated for best magazine section. folks in stitches over the years. Now, the effervescent through synergies with its other businesses, according to a The New Yorker and New York, stalwarts of recent creative director of Barneys New York will get a chance statement. “The acquisition of Cosmédias is an important years, continued to lead with 12 and nine nominations, to share it with many more. Jon Plowman, who produced step in Reed Business Information’s strategy, developing respectively. Vanity Fair was strong with six nominations, cult television hits like “Absolutely its product offer with strong brands and followed by GQ and National Geographic with fi ve apiece. Fabulous,” “Little Britain” and “The new professional content that will benefi t Esquire, which was nominated seven times last year and Offi ce,” is turning “Nasty” into a from multichannel distribution,” stated won once, did not have as much luck this year, with only comedy series called “Beautiful People.” Antoine Duarte, president of RBI in . one nomination. Acclaimed playwright Jonathan Harvey is Cosmédias publishes B2B beauty titles Fashion titles didn’t have that much success. W supplying the script for the show, which including ICN, CosmeticNews, Coiffure received two nominations — one for general excellence is scheduled to air on BBC2 in the U.K. de Paris and CosmétiqueMag. It also runs and one for photography — while Elle was nominated this fall. Internet sites. — Brid Costello for essays and Glamour for general excellence for titles “I am totally delirious and delighted, with over 2 million circulation, its fourth consecutive and bewitched, buggered and FORE FOR BROOKS: Taylor Leon, a 21-year- nomination in that category. But Vogue was shut out, bewildered,” Doonan said on Wednesday. old LPGA golfer, is Brooks Brothers’ fi rst as were titles such as Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire and “It’s one of the most surprising, hilarious female spokeswoman. Leon was appointed In Style. things to ever happen to me. It’s the real as the brand ambassador for Brooks Bros.’ Some individual fi nalists were the usual suspects — cherry on the cake.” Country Club Collection and will represent this year, Christopher Hitchens was nominated for columns The book focuses on his childhood the brand on the golf course. She will make and commentary in Slate, having won last year for in dreary Reading to his pull towards the her debut in the Brooks Bros. Country commentary in Vanity Fair, while The New Yorker’s Louis glamorous fashion world. It is fi lled with Club spring 2008 catalogue but, so far, Menand was nominated for the fi fth time. anecdotes, from the years he spent dressed there aren’t any plans for ad placement in But there were some underdogs to root for. Good, an up as a pirate to his being arrested in Los Taylor Leon magazines, said a spokesman. — Amy Wicks 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 WWD.COM DIRTY SEXY MONEY Window Dresser IN HER BREAKOUT FILM “AMELIE,” GAMINE FRENCH ACTRESS AUDREY Tautou charmed American audiences with her wide-eyed gaze and childlike mixture of innocence and mischief. On March 28, she will reveal a more Donatella Versace and Simon Doonan conniving side when “Priceless,” opens Stateside. Set in Monaco and Nice, in the Barneys window. Tautou goes against type as Irène Mercier, a gold-digging Riviera belle who’s addicted to fashion. As she is quick to point out, the romantic comedy “shows a dark side of society, even if it’s tiny. Behind the diamonds you can fi nd a nasty, dirty thing.” Still, for all its biting sentiment about money and relationships, the fi lm playfully conveys the glittery side of life through its chic and accessories, courtesy of Azzaro, Chanel, National and Chopard. Unlike the rest of the arm candy on the Riviera, Irène’s of knee- length dresses and knit tops refl ects her edgy personality. “To play a part very far from yourself you need to compose yourself differently, and the shoes and dresses helped me a lot with this,” explains Tautou, who in real life favors Dries Van Noten, Marc Jacobs, Isabel Marant and Chloé. “They change the way you stand, behave and walk,” or in Irène’s case, teeter in a Champagne-induced haze on gold Chanel stilettos. Among Tautou’s favorite pieces are the gray Azzaro halter dress with gold cord trim she wears in the opening scene and a cut-down-to-there black number with crystal rings at the shoulders she dons as her fi nal look. “She needs to wear those kinds of dresses because she can only trust her powers of seduction, and for most men, it works,” says Tautou, currently on break before fi lming “Coco avant Chanel,” in which she plays the legendary designer. “Priceless” takes the actress through several scenarios — lounging poolside, riding a Vespa through the seaside cliffs, eating almond cakes in town — throughout which she must appear effortlessly chic and maintain a Saint-Tropez tan (she says she had to take “a few trips to the UV”). While the clingy frocks were a departure from Tautou’s personal style, “This is going to be my Facebook profi le photo,” cried 22-year-old Blair Verhoef as she snapped a the most diffi cult part about playing Irène was the cease-and-desist order shot of Donatella Versace posing in Barneys New York’s Madison Avenue windows Tuesday night placed on her nail-biting habit. “That was a big effort,” she laughs, “but the to launch her men’s wear collection. Verhoef’s 27 pals, all fashion students visiting from Iowa manicures made me stop.” State, formed a crush on Madison and 61st, along with a dozen paparazzi. — Marcy Medina “It’s like the day of the bloody locusts out there,” said Simon Doonan, who was also in the window and escorted Versace out to the sidewalk so the photographers could get a picture of her Gad Elmaleh as Jean and Audrey Tautou as in the fl esh. “But she’s a good sport.” Irène in Pierre Salvadori’s “Priceless.” Especially considering her signature sky-high platform stilettos, which Doonan noted you don’t see on many women “who aren’t crawling around on all fours.” How tall were they exactly? “Why does everyone ask me that,” Versace lamented, once she was settled on the third fl oor where cocktails were being served. “I am comfortable.” She said she “had never had such a strange experience” as standing in her own window and gave her partner some gentle ribbing. “I think Simon actually wants to be a mannequin.” A crowd of seemingly unlikely fans of Versace’s va- va-voom style gathered to kiss the (enormous diamond) ring including Patti LaBelle, Busta Rhymes, “Stifl er” from “American Pie” (Seann William Scott) and Woody Allen and Soon-Yi Previn. “I wear some of the Versace ,” Allen said. “I can’t speak for anyone else, but I think I look great in them.” Versace greets Woody Allen. Highland Fling We’re not used to this,” moans Scott Paterson, singer-guitarist of the Glaswegian “post-punk band Sons and Daughters as he and his bandmates — lead singer Adele Bethel, bassist Ailidh Lennon and drummer David Gow — try to fi nd some shade in the 90-degree heat of Austin, Tex., during a break between interviews at the South by Southwest music festival. Blazing sun aside, the band was happy to be back in Texas — the last time was in 2004 when they were an unsigned group making records with funding from the Scottish Arts Council. Now, with their third album out, “This Gift” (Domino Records), Sons and Daughters is about to launch an East Coast tour, appearing in New York Friday night at the Music Hall of Williamsburg and Saturday at Bowery Ballroom. “We’ve played New York more times than we’ve played Glasgow,” says Bethel, swigging a midday beer as she sits in the Austin Convention Center. “We’ve Ailidh Lennon, Adele Bethel, David Gow and been really, really lucky — it’s been one of our best places to perform.” Scott Paterson of Sons and Daughters.

LOCK IN: For this album, the band rented a house in isolated boots and black Lee jeans. Both borrowed clothes from Dior Adfern, Scotland, where they wrote and practiced for eight hours Homme after befriending Hedi Slimane through fellow a day, taking breaks by teaching themselves to play Texas Hold Scottish group Franz Ferdinand, though they didn’t know ’Em. “There was nothing to do. There was one bar in the whole who he was at fi rst. village, but it was a bit scary so we didn’t go down there,” says Bethel, whose lyrics are conjured by inspirations as diverse as Blondie, the Julie FRONT ROW: The band was invited to their fi rst fashion show recently by Luella Christie movie “Darling,” and poems by Sylvia Plath and Emily Dickinson. Bartley, whose husband, David Sims, once shot the group for French Vogue. But like many a frazzled editor, they got stuck in traffi c. “We ended up missing the FLASHBACK: The band didn’t always have the heavily stylized retro look that is its show,” wails Bethel. “We learned — it’s over really quickly!” hallmark now. “When the band fi rst started, Ailidh and I were quite shy, wearing jeans and jumpers,” says Bethel, who now sports raven hair and thick black eyeliner. “It was ON THEIR OWN: No one in the group loves working with stylists. “We have had gradual. We are really infl uenced by Sixties culture, so it’s lots of false eyelashes and bad experiences,” says Paterson. “They will have really good s--t for girls and then minidresses.” She’s grown into a full-fl edged fashion fan, with packing habits to match. for guys it will be baggy jeans. We always try to keep our own stuff on shoots.” “I can get into my own suitcase, it’s so big,” says Bethel. “It’s a two-man lift,” says Gow, “We did a shoot for Italian Vogue and they tried to make me wear a Christian shaking his head. “Adele tried to lift it once and threw her back out, I’m not joking, so Dior puffball,” says Bethel. “It was a nice dress but it wasn’t me.” What is her is it’s just the guys now,” adds Paterson, who is also Bethel’s longtime boyfriend. Miu Miu, a fashion house she contacted through her friend, Alison Mosshart, the lead singer of the Kills. “They just gave me some dresses,” she marvels, though MEN’S WEAR: “We roll out of bed looking like this,” Gow jokes of the band’s she sent them back afterward. “I felt bad. I thought, ‘If I send these back, then style. He normally pairs with appropriately shrunken girls’ jeans maybe I can get some more.’ I didn’t want to steal clothes the fi rst time.” from British high street brand New Look, while Paterson favors vintage cowboy — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz VERSACE PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; PRICELESS COURTESY OF SAMUEL GOLDWYN; SONS AND DAUGHTERS BY KELLY WEST KELLY BY OF SAMUEL GOLDWYN; SONS AND DAUGHTERS STEVE EICHNER; PRICELESS COURTESY VERSACE PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 5 WWD.COM Nike Net Leaps 32 Percent

By Whitney Beckett working and that we’re on track to achieve our fi - nancial goals for this fi scal year and beyond.” rowth across all regions led Nike Inc. to a 32 Growth in the Asia-Pacifi c region of 27 percent Gpercent jump in third-quarter earnings. to $748.3 million led the sales increase, along For the three months ended Feb. 29, net income with Europe’s 23 percent gain, to $1.4 billion. was $463.8 million, or 92 cents a share, compared The Americas increased 20 percent as a region to with $350.8 million, or 68 cents, last year, the ac- $254.4 million, while U.S. sales rose 5 percent to tive giant reported Wednesday. $1.6 billion. Sales for the quarter grew 16 percent to $4.54 For the fi rst three quarters of the year, earnings billion from $3.93 billion. also increased 32 percent to $1.39 billion, or $2.76 “A year ago we established the goal of reach- a share, from $1.05 billion, or $2.07, for the fi rst ing $23 billion in revenues by our fi scal year 2011 nine months of last year. and outlined our strategy for achieving that goal Sales in the nine-month period were up 13 per- while continuing to deliver profi table, sustainable cent to $13.54 billion from $11.94 billion. growth and outstanding returns to our sharehold- Nike also recorded changes in its “other business” ers,” said Mark Parker, Nike Inc. president and sector, having recently bought Umbro for $285 mil- Carlos Santana and Mariah Carey in a Macy’s commercial. chief executive offi cer. “Our strong third-quarter lion, sold its Starter brand for $29 million to Iconix results, driven by sales gains across our diver- Brand Group Inc. and agreed to sell Bauer Hockey sifi ed portfolio of categories, geographies and for $200 million to an investor group led by Kohlberg Macy’s Campaign brands, are a clear indication that our strategy is Co. and Canadian businessman W. Graeme Roustan. Packs Celeb Punch Class Action Status Sought in Sterling Suit By Kristi Ellis the New York Stock Exchange. discrimination between men By Sharon Edelson Sterling has 1,308 specialty jew- and women who held the same WASHINGTON — Lawyers for a elry stores in the U.S., while its positions and performed the NEW YORK — Macy’s spring TV campaign launches Sunday group of 15 current and former parent company, Signet, oper- same duties during the same featuring Mariah Carey, Carlos Santana and Gabriel Aubry in female employees are seeking ates 581 stores in the U.K, ac- period of time; the company’s the celebrity cast, along with the feuding Martha Stewart and class action status for a suit cording to the fi rm. alleged refusal to publicize jobs Donald Trump. against Sterling Jewelers Inc., “We do not believe these when they become vacant and Highlighting the chain’s variety of merchandise is a primary which charges the retailer with charges are valid,” said a provide a system for employees goal. And though Stewart and Trump are never together in the engaging in a pattern of wide- Sterling spokesman. “When to apply for vacant jobs and a spots, they suggest that Macy’s is big enough to accommodate spread sex discrimination by these allegations fi rst surfaced, policy barring employees from the clashing personalities. denying promotions and equal we investigated those claims. discussing their wages with one “We want to create more awareness of the Macy’s brand na- pay to women. That investigation failed to another. tionally and show the consumer that we have some brands they The suit was fi led Tuesday substantiate the allegations. We Sellers said a finding by may not yet know about,” said Martine Reardon, executive vice in U.S. District Court in New are confi dent that these charg- the U.S. Equal Employment president of Macy’s Corporate Marketing. York. The law fi rm represent- es do not refl ect the culture of Opportunity Commission in In their commercial, Santana, the iconic guitarist who fuses ing the women, Cohen, Milstein, this company.” January on behalf of 19 Sterling rock, jazz, blues, soul and more, and pop princess Carey bond Hausfeld & Toll P.L.L.C., Sellers said more than employees will strengthen the over stilettos from Santana’s line of sexy . revealed the lawsuit here “I always said shoes are like women,” Santana remarks. Wednesday with four former “They inspire beautiful music.” He plays a guitar riff and Carey employees of Sterling, which begins humming. “What does my fragrance inspire?” she asks, operates under store names When these allegations fi rst spritzing. “Mmm, that’s got soul,” Santana replies. Donald such as Jared, Kay Jewelers “ Trump, who is the comic foil in the commercials, says, “My ties and Belden Jewelers. surfaced, we investigated those are beautiful. They don’t need music.” “The purpose of this suit ul- Aubry, the Calvin Klein model and companion of Halle timately is to change the prac- claims. That investigation failed to Berry, stars in the second commercial as a fi rst-day Macy’s em- tices of this company,” said ployee. Women swoon as Aubry is led through the store by a Joseph M. Sellers, co-counsel substantiate the allegations. manager. Stewart drops the plate she’s holding when she reach- with the law fi rm in the case, — Sterling Jewelers” Inc. spokesman es to shake his hand and checks out his butt. Carey, who is at which was fi led late Tuesday. the fragrance counter, murmurs “Oh, my” as he walks by. The “It is the industry leader and camera cuts to Trump, who deadpans, “So very shallow.” other companies look to com- 20,000 women, current and for- lawsuit. An EEOC letter of de- The commercials, directed by Barry Levinson, who won an panies like this in the way they mer employees, would qualify termination, attached to the Oscar for “Rain Man,” carry the tag line: “Bringing the stars model their conduct. When an if the suit is granted class ac- lawsuit, found evidence of a na- together. That’s the magic of Macy’s.” industry leader is engaged in tion status. On the basis of tionwide pattern of sex discrim- The retailer is “trying to showcase more of the store,” widespread discrimination, the the pay claims, the suit covers ination in regard to promotion Reardon said. “Fragrance is a very important part of our busi- countenances provide cover for women who worked for the jew- and compensation at Sterling. ness, as is women’s shoes. Calvin Klein is a very big partner. whole industry practices that eler from February 2003 to the The independent agency also It’s in home, fragrance, juniors, women’s and men’s. Martha may be similar in nature.” present. The promotion claims, found that Sterling promoted is a very important brand for us, exclusive to Macy’s. She just Sam Smith, another plain- which were filed separately, male employees at a “statisti- launched a new line of Wedgewood china. Donald Trump is also tiff attorney with Burr & Smith, cover the female employees cally significant” higher rate a great partner. His men’s furnishings business is very strong.” said the women who have fi led listed as plaintiffs “for as long than female employees holding The commercials will air nationally on networks, cable and the case were all highly suc- as the discrimination was prac- the same positions. in syndication. The Carey-Santana spot, which was also fi lmed in cessful and received bonuses ticed,” said Sellers. The EEOC said it will begin Spanish, will air on Telemundo, Univision, Galavision and Azteca. — at least one of the plaintiffs The suit seeks fundamental a conciliation process to bring Reardon dismissed the idea that the celebrities are highly received a $10,000 bonus — for changes to Sterling’s personnel the two sides together in an paid. “These people are our business partners, so they want to their high sales performances, policies, awards of earnings attempt to reach a settlement. do it for us,” she said. “It’s exposure for their brands.” but many were never promoted and benefi ts lost because of dis- Sterling denied the allega- The campaign comes as the more than 800-store chain posted to key managerial positions. crimination and compensatory tions of discrimination, ac- total sales of $1.28 billion for the four weeks ended Feb. 2, com- Akron, Ohio-based Sterling and punitive damages. cording to the EEOC letter, pared with $1.78 billion in the fi ve weeks ended Feb. 3, 2007. The is the U.S. operating arm of The plaintiffs are challeng- and “asserts that legitimate, 28.4 percent decrease was primarily attributed to one fewer week in London-based Signet Group, ing several of Sterling’s prac- non-discriminatory reasons the January period versus a year ago. But Macy’s same-store sales which is publicly traded on tices, including alleged wage support its decisions.” were down 7.1 percent in January, on an apples-to-apples basis. Reardon sees the commercials as more than just an ad cam- paign. “It’s the DNA of the brand Gabriel Aubrey walking and how we differ- through Macy’s. High School of Fashion Industries Honoring Finley entiate ourselves,” she said. “Our plan NEW YORK — Fashion Calendar creator Ruth Finley will be honored by the High School of Fashion is to continue the Industries here on May 21. ads. There may be The school at 225 West 24th Street will present Finley with a Salute to Ruth lifetime achievement other categories award. Diane von Furstenberg will serve as the honorary chairwoman for the event. and some other “Ruth is quite the icon and she has been connected with our students for many years, opening a lot designers. Tommy of doors for them in the industry,” said principal Hilda Nieto. “She is very connected to the industry Hilfiger will be and has such an amazing life story. I couldn’t think of a better honoree.” [launching] men’s Besides her achievements in the industry, Finley, who started the biweekly listing of fashion indus- and missy exclu- try events in 1941, has been chairwoman of the New York City chapter of Citymeals-on-Wheels for 25 sively in August. years and has raised more than $1.2 million for the organization. He’ll be a very big Tickets for the event, which go on sale in April, will be $82 (for the 82 years the school has been part of what we’re open). The event will also showcase students’ year-end fashion achievements in the annual fashion doing.” show, a presentation of senior projects. HSFI students will wear the designs and will train and rehearse with industry experts. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008

Brains on Fire’s cotton T-shirt and Superfi ne’s cotton and elastane jeans. Ksubi ; Don the Verb ; CC Skye clutch. ALong, lean leggingsLeg Up get an update this fall with edgy touches like exposed , shirring and tie-dye prints. — Kim Friday

The Row’s lambskin on cotton and Lycra leggings and viscose T-shirt worn with Don the Verb’s wool . Rise Up’s organic cotton shirt and scarf; Tashkent by Cheyenne’s boots. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Blue Blood’s , Mark and Estel’s cotton T-shirt and Gary Graham’s cotton leggings. Low Luv by Erin Wasson ; Hervé Léger by Max Azria boots.

Diesel Black Gold’s cotton and rayon blazer and BNX’s DKNY Jeans’ acrylic and wool polyester jacket and leggings. Christian Sass & Bide’s cotton Louboutin boots. blouse and coated Lycra and nylon leggings. Miss Sixty ; Tashkent by Cheyenne boots. FASHION ASSISTANT: AYSE CUETO AYSE ASSISTANT: FASHION PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: KATIE/MAJOR; HAIR BY KATY YUNG; MAKEUP BY SOUHI LEE AT DE FACTO FOR GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY; FOR GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY; DE FACTO SOUHI LEE AT YUNG; MAKEUP BY KATY HAIR BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: KATIE/MAJOR; PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 WWD.COM Report Acne Jeans Cuts Ribbon on Two Continents By Emilie Marsh Views of the Acne store in Paris. PARIS — Acne Jeans is storming two fashion capitals at once. The edgy, Stockholm-based brand has set fl agship openings for today in New York and Paris. The label is launching its fi rst locale outside Europe at 10 Greene Street in New York’s SoHo. Its bou- tique at 124 Galerie de Valois in Palais Royal, one of Paris’ most elegant and hottest retail addresses, will open just hours earlier. “It’s ideal — key cities and fantastic locations,” said the com- pany’s president, Mikael Schiller. “Acne is involved in so many cre- ative disciplines, we wanted to show the same creative energy in our shops.” Acne has a knack for settling on unexpected locations. Its Stockholm fl agship is in the former bank where hostages were taken in 1973 and the term “Stockholm Syndrome” was coined. And the brand’s palatial new headquarters in the center of the Swedish - ital is in a 17th-century residence once owned by the aristocratic Wallenberg family. “No two Acne stores are ever exactly the same,” said Jonny Johansson, creative director. “We try to bring to each store a sense of creativity at work. We call the stores Acne Studios and that’s how we want them to feel, like studios.” Tucked under the arcades of the Palais Royal, the Paris boutique joins the likes of Marc Jacobs, Pierre Hardy and Rick Owens, and Stella McCartney and Ralph Lauren are expected to move in before the end of the year. Despite the picturesque surroundings, the 650-square-foot, compa- ny-owned shop takes inspiration from a city square in Stockholm. “It was important to add a bit of our heritage,” Johansson said. The store houses Acne’s collections for men and women, includ- ing accessories and jeans. Rounding out the merchandise is Acne’s children’s collection and its Consider Classics line, consisting of basic denim, chinos and T- for men and women. “We hope to have special merchandise for each store,” said Johansson, disclosing plans for a limited edition range of high-end pieces exclusively for Acne stores. Market sources estimated the Paris boutique would generate about 700,000 euros, or $1.1 million, annually. Including the Paris and New York fl agships, Acne has 15 freestanding stores world- wide, which the brand aims to increase to 18 before the end of the year. Western Europe remains the key market for Acne, which last year had sales growth of 42.2 percent, said Schiller, who added that the fi rm was looking into stores in London, Los Angeles and Amsterdam. The New York store, a 1,000-square-foot space, will also carry the full range of Acne product in women’s and men’s. The store will be a collaboration with Opening Ceremony owners Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, who will run the location. “Even though Europe is still considered our main market, the U.S. is growing into a very important market for us,” Schiller said. “Having a location in New York gives us a great opportunity to show the whole world what Acne is about.” — With contributions from Julee Kaplan, New York April 77 Opens Paris Flagship PARIS — The French fashion and record label tunes are stashed into undulating display units, April 77 has a new gig, spinning out its first flag- while glistening chrome detailing in the fi t- ship in the heart of the Marais district here. ting rooms and a circular cash wrap add to the Brice Partouche, the brand’s designer, tapped shop’s retro feel. interior designer Steven Thomas to craft the “We have a very niche following, an avant- look of the store at 49 Rue de Saintonge after garde customer who wants sophisticated styles reading a book on Biba, the iconic Seventies for the street,” Partouche said of rock-inspired concept store that Thomas designed. unisex styles. “The Biba store in London is a temple of The label is known in Europe for its afford- Art Deco and fashion,” Partouche said. “I was able, skinny denim styles in a multitude of colors very interested by its contrast of punk and and prints, as well as its checked shirts, fi tted luxury items.” jackets and a selection of rock-inspired T-shirts. With a glossy woodlike veneer, the shop’s in- To mark the shop’s opening, the brand will tentional fake take on Art Deco twists over 750 launch a diffusion line dubbed April 77 Records square feet. Vintage radios buzzing with rock to lure younger customers. “We wanted to share our passion for April 77’s Paris fl agship. music with our customers,” Partouche said. “Each pair of jeans will be sold with a bar code linked to one of our . Customers can download singles from the band.” He noted that an April 77 Records store will open in the Marais this summer, as will a second April 77 fl agship in Bordeaux. “The new April 77 Records line will also allow April 77 to mature and became more sophisticated,” Partouche said. In addition to the fl agship, the April 77 Records collection will be sold exclusive- ly at Barneys New York, Colette in Paris, Loveless in Tokyo and London’s Dover Street Market. — E.M. ALL PHOTOS BY DOMENIQUE MAITRE ALL PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 9 WWD.COM The Beat Guess Earnings Climb 42% for Year

Continued from page one and women’s apparel, to accessories and footwear. We have developed brand recognition on every continent,” said Paul everything our customer needs.” Marciano, chief executive officer, in a telephone interview. During the quarter, key categories included dresses, “The key is we are in tune with our customers and have denim, sweaters, knit and woven tops and outerwear. Sales an open line of communication with regional and store of accessories, especially and footwear, also per- managers,” Marciano added. “This allows us to immedi- formed well. ately react when something goes wrong with a product. “Our wholesale segment, which includes Asian opera- We don’t have to wait three months to hear our customers tions, had an excellent quarter with a 63 percent increase didn’t like a .” in revenues,” Marciano said on a conference call with an- The ceo discussed the brand’s growth as Guess reported alysts. “Our licensing business had a very strong quarter its best full-year results since it launched 27 years ago. For where revenue increased by 22 percent and 35 percent for the three months ended Feb. 2, earnings climbed 20.3 per- the full year.” cent to 55.2 million, or 59 cents a share, Going forward the company’s pri- from $45.9 million, or 49 cents, in the mary goal is to accelerate retail expan- same year-ago period. The fi gures rep- sion in Europe, particularly in France, resent the company’s 18th consecutive England, Spain and Germany. They also quarter of earnings growth. plan to grow Asia’s retail and wholesale Total revenues rose 30.3 percent business. to $488.1 million from $274.6 million, “The name of the game interna- while North American same-store sales tionally is to penetrate new markets,” grew 13.1 percent. The wholesale seg- Alberini said. “There is a big opportu- ment spiked 53.1 percent to $65.1 mil- nity for us to continue to grow in this lion, while the European segment rose way.” 75.4 percent to $152.2 million. Guess now operates 579 freestanding Europe and Asia represented about stores worldwide, including 302 in Asia, two-thirds of the revenue increase and 241 in Europe and the Middle East and half of operating profi t growth in the 36 in Latin America. Looks from Guess’ spring collection. quarter, Marciano said. Guess also recently unveiled a new For the full year, earnings grew 42.2 eco-friendly line of denim and tops. percent to $186.5 million, or $1.99 a “Being more conscious of the envi- share, from $131.2 million, or $1.42, last ronment is something we didn’t have year. Total revenues swelled 40 percent time to focus on before as we were ex- to $1.66 billion from $1.19 billion. This panding internationally, but is really is a nearly 90 percent increase in rev- something we feel is important to start enues from two years ago, Marciano doing,” Marciano said. pointed out. Paul Marciano During the year the company opened The company said it expects fi rst- 184 stores worldwide. In 2008, it plans quarter earnings in the range of 44 to to roll out 185 international freestand- 46 cents a diluted share. Management also reiterated fi scal ing stores and 60 domestic locations. 2009 earnings to be between $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share. The company also announced a $200 million share repur- Stateside, sales are being boosted by tourists who travel chase program. to America with strong currencies against the weak dollar Shares of Guess on Wednesday were down 4.3 percent to and are willing to spend. close at $34.17 in trading on the New York Stock Exchange, “Some retailers are concerned about Florida due to the which was in-line with the overall market trends. Guess housing crisis. But globally, if you are a recognized brand you posted results after the markets closed. have tourists vacationing in Miami who may ignore retailers In Tuesday’s trading session, the Dow Jones Industrial they don’t recognize, but will go into a Guess store because Average gave back a good portion of its 420-point gain by they are familiar with the brand,” Carlos Alberini, president dropping nearly 2.4 percent, or 293 points, to end the day and chief operating offi cer, said in a separate interview. at 12,099.66, while the broader S&P 500 fell 2.4 percent to Guess provides a comprehensive merchandise assort- 1,298.42. The S&P Retail Index slid 1.4 percent to close at ment mix. 377.36. “We have diversifi ed our product from what it was 10 to Talbot’s Inc. topped the Big Board’s list of biggest advancers, 15 years ago,” Marciano said. “Jeans make up barely 25 per- soaring 10.3 percent to $11.38. New York & Company Inc. also cent of total merchandise, where it used to be 75 percent grew 5.3 percent to $4.74. Notable decliners included Children’s because we didn’t have solid merchandise in other key cat- Place Retail Stores Inc., which fell 5.6 percent to $19.60, and egories. Now we are a complete lifestyle brand, from men’s J. Crew Group Inc., which sank 4.3 percent to $42.14.

Michelle Milly Scouting a Manhattan Location Smith

By Beth Wilson and accruing more than 500 specialty store accounts. ichelle Smith’s colorful, print-driven line Milly The swimwear collection, in which an aver- Mis looking to open a New York flagship within a age retails for $215, also helped opened year. doors for Smith, who said some European Smith said she and her husband, Andrew Oshrin, stores such as Harrods and Selfridges bought Milly’s president, are scouting for roughly 1,500 square fi rst and then delved into the ready- feet of space on the Upper East Side to open their fi rst to-wear collection. retail store. Smith revealed the plan while visiting While the line is available at Neiman Chicago for a personal appearance and fashion show Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth at Neiman Marcus, the seven-year-old New York-based Avenue in the U.S., smaller specialty stores line’s largest account. account for the bulk of its business, about 55 The designer, who made the appearance with her percent, Smith said. blonde 14-month-old daughter Sophia in tow, said the Milly’s sales grew by 50 percent in both sagging economy may actually be helping her line, 2006 and 2007, Oshrin said, noting growth is in which knitwear and accessories begin at $200 and estimated at a more conservative 25 percent retail upward of $600. for 2008, given the iffy economy. “The high-end customer may be holding back and Both Oshrin and Smith, however, predict buying more pieces from me,” Smith, 35, said. continued brand momentum. Once the New Milly’s bestsellers this spring include a navy and York store is open, Smith said she would con- white hibiscus fl oral cotton with white sider other domestic locations where business beading at the neckline retailing at $465, a white cot- is strong, such as Chicago, Boston, Dallas, San ton jacquard day coat for $625 and a white cotton jack- Francisco and Atlanta. A look from et with gold buttons and bamboo belt loops for $390. Business is growing abroad, as well, with the runway Since launching in 2000, Smith, who previously in- the line boasting 140 accounts in Italy. Overall, show at terned at Hermès, Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton, roughly 70 to 75 percent of Milly’s business is Neiman said the line has grown organically, adding a resort domestic accounts, with about 15 to 20 percent Marcus.

and swimwear collection called Milly Cabana in 2005 in Europe and 5 to 10 percent in Asia. KAREN HOYT PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 WWD.COM

A view of A rendering of Downtown. Centennial Park. FRO R M E T T

E

8 L 0 0 2 , 20 M H ATLANTA ARC

damage,” from the tornado, although it was in the storm’s path. Financing and credit is another story. Public funding — approximately $78.6 million for infrastructure improvements — could be cut in half, due to the court ruling. Meeting the Challenge “I was blindsided,” said Barry. “The economy’s up and down, and fi nancial markets are dicey. We needed help to accomplish this vision to revitalize Downtown. Without By Georgia Lee access to adequate funding, it will be much more diffi cult.” The Sembler Co., an Orlando, Fla.-based developer with 128 shopping centers (over he economy, the credit markets and the courts may all be hurdles, but it appears 23 million square feet of retail) in the Southeast, has 10 Atlanta projects planned or Tnothing, including a tornado, can stop development in Atlanta. under construction, with fi ve existing centers in the area. Since the Civil War, Atlanta has developed a reputation for building and rebuild- Jeff Fuqua, president, said leasing efforts have stalled in recent months as the ing, which has served it well for the past 140-plus years. economy has slowed. Some projects may be delayed, and at least one has been signifi - Today, Atlanta is a 28-county metropolitan area that reached 5.2 million population cantly downsized. in 2007, having added over 100,000 people a year for the past 10 years, with another “All retailers are hesitant about expanding now, but it’s more pronounced in ap- 2.2 million expected by 2030. parel, especially the big apparel chains, and it all happened so suddenly,” he said, Atlanta is the retail and economic engine for the state of Georgia. From 1995 to 2005, referring to the post-holiday period. “Our projects that are already leased are fi ne, Georgia’s retail sales grew 89.5 percent to $123 billion, and buying income increased 67.9 but those in the planning stages may be pushed back a quarter.” percent to $167 billion, according to the Metropolitan Atlanta Chamber of Commerce. Sembler’s projects — mixed-use retail, residential and offi ce complexes — are so large It’s no wonder that dozens of mixed-use projects are planned and under construc- that they often reshape suburban landscapes, drawing fi erce neighborhood opposition. tion in Atlanta. Rapid growth in the past 20 years led to suburban sprawl and legend- While a vehement anti-development campaign fought Town Briarcliff, in northeast ary traffi c. Now developers are moving closer in, with major new mixed-use develop- Atlanta, Fuqua blamed economic factors for its downsizing. Town Briarcliff, one of its larg- ments in Downtown, Midtown and . est mixed-use proposals, was begun two years ago. The 107-acre development planned But many multiphased projects planned over the past decade during better times 1.5-million square feet of retail, but scaled back to 80 acres, and 900,000 square feet. are now faced with the harsh realities of a fl agging economy. Some, from looming re- Meanwhile, Daniel Corp. is developing 12th & Midtown, a multiphase, $2 billion cession and tight credit markets to cautious retailers and consumers, mirror national project that is the cornerstone of the Midtown Mile, a 14-block area, which will create concerns, while others are specifi c to Atlanta. 1 million square feet of street-level retail by 2010. While the local population is growing, the job market is slowing somewhat. The Steve Baille, senior vice president of Daniel, acknowledged tight capital markets and housing sector, in terms of new homes and prices, is also declining, though much less increased caution among potential tenants, but said it’s not enough to postpone or derail than it has in neighboring Florida. the project. An unprecedented Downtown tornado the night of March 14 did damage surpassing $150 “Players with good fundamentals will be fi ne, but marginal players may be weeded million to Atlanta landmarks, including the CNN center, the Georgia World Congress Center out,” he said. and the Georgia Dome. Repairs are under way, mostly replacing blown-out glass. Offi cials Baille said the desirability of Midtown, with its cultural attractions, neighborhoods said the biggest imperative is getting the Georgia World Congress Center, which hosts many and parks, continues to override the effects of economic downturns. of the city’s conventions, up and running, though it is unclear when it will reopen. Developer Ben Carter also is confi dent that the glamorous lure of his Streets of Downtown tourist attractions like the and World of Coca-Cola, Buckhead, dubbed the “Rodeo Drive of Atlanta,” will outweigh any short-term snags. which opened in the past two years and draw millions to the area, escaped damage. “I’ve built two regional malls during recessions, and I’d rather be in construction “The tornado won’t be a long-term problem for developers or the economic welfare than opening stores in a recession,” said Carter, founder of The Streets of Buckhead, of the city,” said A.J. Robinson, president of Central Atlanta Progress, a private, non- a $1.2 billion mixed-used project, which will open phase one in late 2009. profi t business development group. Having signed Hermès, Oscar de la Renta and Bottega Veneta, Carter said he will soon Robinson acknowledged that the economic climate for developers in general “is not announce another international jewelry store and Italian women’s apparel retail tenant. great,” but stressed the mission of developing Downtown as a viable retail center. “I haven’t noticed a real slowdown among luxury retailers,” he observed. “They Industry watchers say fi nancial storm clouds are much more threatening in the may have some immediate concerns, but they are confi dent about long-term prospects long run to Atlanta’s continued growth. for the Atlanta market and the U.S. economy.” “Like boxers, Atlanta’s developers are feeling punched with a right, then a left,” Despite the challenges, developers are still announcing long-term plans, some said Steve Labovitz, partner in McKenna Long & Aldridge, a legal fi rm that represents quite dramatic, for the city. developers. “They are jittery about a credit crunch, the economy, fi nancing, higher This month, Jim Jacoby, chairman of Jacoby Group Development, the visionary construction costs, the court decision — everything is creating a perfect storm.” behind , announced a 6.5 million-square-foot retail and offi ce project That court decision — a Feb. 15 Georgia Supreme Court ruling prohibiting the use near the Hartsfi eld-Jackson airport. The 122-acre project will be on the site of a for- of school property tax revenues for redevelopment projects — stunned developers. mer Ford assembly plant that closed in October 2006. It will include 1.6 million square Projects in areas designated as Tax Allocation Districts have previously used such feet of retail, and 2 million square feet of offi ce space. monies to fund infrastructure and other improvements. The ruling effectively limits With close proximity to the airport, the project is poised to serve increased inter- the funding available to developers to help with their projects. national traffi c from a $6 billion airport improvement and expansion currently under “Without it, Atlantic Station wouldn’t have happened,” said Brian Leary, vice president way. It includes a new international terminal at the world’s busiest airport, which has of AIG Real Estate, developers of Atlantic Station. The mixed-use project created a mini city 8.5 million passengers annually. on a former steel mill in Midtown, using $300 million in TAD money to fund infrastructure. The project will have “three kinds of retail — neighborhood, regional and inter- Last month’s ruling could limit funds for approximately 20 projects planned in national, to serve the growing international traffi c at the airport,” said Jacoby. It will two designated districts in the city. One high-profi le project, Allen Plaza, is a 12-acre, break ground this June and is slated to be completed by 2020. nine-block mixed-use development in Downtown and is in its second phase. “Atlanta is a real estate town,” said Robinson of Central Atlanta Progress. Hal Barry, chairman of Barry Real Estate, said the project suffered “absolutely no “Developers are creative people. They will fi gure it out.”

BUSINESSES IN METRO ATLANTA: 138,000 (2006) ANNUAL PASSENGERS AT ATLANTA’S HARTSFIELD-JACKSON VITAL STATISTICS AIRPORT: 85 million METRO ATLANTA POPULATION: 5.2 million (2007) METRO ATLANTA UNEMPLOYMENT RATE: 5 percent (2008) IMPACT OF THE 1996 SUMMER OLYMPICS ON ATLANTA: SQUARE MILES IN 28-COUNTY METRO ATLANTA: 8,480 MEDIAN HOUSEHOLD INCOME: $55,552 (2006) $5.1 billion brought to the economy

EMPLOYED METRO ATLANTA RESIDENTS: 2.5 million (2008) NUMBER OF STREETS IN ATLANTA NAMED PEACHTREE: 55 OLYMPIC TICKETS SOLD: 8 million

SOURCES: U.S. CENSUS BUREAU, METRO ATLANTA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, ATLANTA REGIONAL COMMISSION, GEORGIA DEPARTMENT OF LABOR why atlanta apparel? the largest apparel market on the East Coast!

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cutting-edge lines are here! visit AmericasMart.com® for complete listing. AmericasMart.com®. 800.ATL.MART 12 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 WWD.COM

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PHOTO BY COLIN GRAY PHOTO BY NEW LINES THE LATEST RESOURCES TO HIT AMERICASMART. Retailers Adjust Fall Plans LINE: Moss Mills WHAT: A quirky line of colorful leather belts and By Elizabeth Thurman silver, gold and rose gold jewelry with nature-inspired Clockwise from left: themes. Standouts include a double-buckle belt in aced with a difficult economy, erratic weather and Stephanie Lindley, dove gray and butter yellow. Freluctant customers, Southeast buyers are playing it owner of James WHOLESALE: $42 to $62 safe. While retailers expect core lines to lead them through Gunn in Savannah, LOCATION: Loot Showroom, 9-W121 fickle times, they’re banking on special items to encourage Ga.; Luxe in Atlanta; clients to spend. 5 Sisters Boutique LINE: V Fish WWD asked several regional buyers about their fall in Jacksonville, Fla. WHAT: Flirty minidresses, a few tops and cardigans strategies. with plenty of visual interest from bright colors, our favorite lines. We are seeing a slight shift from Ts and carefully placed prints and Camille Wright, owner, Kaleidoscope Boutique, Atlanta: denim, but I think it’s just momentary. We made an overall decorative trims. “Times are tough. You can’t afford to make stupid buys. I’m cut of 20 percent for 2008, although we are trending up 26 WHOLESALE: $32 to $89 focusing on clothes that are transitional. People want more percent for January and February combined.” LOCATION: Premiere, 2-506 bang for their buck and something that takes them from Nugaard day into evening. I’ll skimp on some of the sportswear, but Diane Koch, owner, 5 Sisters Boutique, Jacksonville, Fla.: LINE: Nugaard Designs Designs’ not denim. People can go to Loehmann’s for sportswear, but “We will be shopping summer and into early fall at April WHAT: Handmade, eco-friendly . they will always go to boutiques for denim. Joe’s [Jeans] market. I’m always looking at immediates. If there is , bracelets and literally pays my rent, Paige [Premium] is doing really well something great available right now, why would you pass earrings. and J Brand is on everyone’s list. My customers tend to be that up? Core lines are always denim: Miss Me — which WHOLESALE: $34 to $150 buy-now, wear-now, but I’m looking ahead. At the Atlanta has expanded into dresses, tops and pants — Infusion, LOCATION: Premiere, 2-611 market, I’ll be looking for lines like Veronica M. It sells J&Company, David Kahn, along with top lines like Scala great and price points are fantastic. Ben Sherman Women’s and Papillon Blanc. LINE: Nay-Ked and Triple 5 Soul also sell well.” “Trends are leading right back to the dress this spring and WHAT: Romantic and easy-to-wear contemporary summer. With our climate, you can do the same dress a hun- tops, dresses and pants in jersey and silk. Seth Adams, owner, Village Sportswear, Birmingham and dred times during the year. We are selling them all day long. WHOLESALE: $19 to $60 Decatur, Ala.: Summer is showing a long dress, and that should be interest- LOCATION: Ward & Ward, 11-W125 “[Business] is holding its own. I’m set for spring and looking ing since we have been doing very well with a shorter version. forward to fall. I’m trying to take what I’ve seen on runways [Business is] better this year than last and we are up for the LINE: Bliss-i-Tude and fi gure out how to use it in the real world. It seems to be fi rst three months. I adjusted inventory levels about two years WHAT: Bright dresses, tops and bottoms with young all about [novelty] tops and jackets now. Nobody’s buying ago, and we have been doing much better since. We added bodies and light embellishments. basics. Bottoms have sort of become insignifi cant. Jackets more accessories and lowered overall price points.” WHOLESALE: $44 to $55 seem to be the way people are updating their wardrobe, LOCATION: Carroll Apparel, 9-E111 especially with interesting bell sleeves. Lafayette 148 and Jenn Ripley, owner, Luxe-Atlanta: Nanette Lepore are really stepping up to the plate with “I am looking for deliveries from late July through October. their jackets. I’m pretty solid on my immediate deliveries and am look- “I don’t think [fall business] is going to be a bust. People ing for some independent collections for fall. We do very are still shopping, although they’re not spending as much as well with exclusive lines, like Norsah, Luxury Jones, Sherri before. Things aren’t as stable. I’m probably going to take 10 Bodell, McGuinn and Nougat. This fall, I’m concentrating percent off my buy as a cushion. You can always go back and on interesting knitwear lines, including Marlova. I’m plan- get more merchandise.” ning a trip to Brazil this summer and will be incorporating leather outerwear [by Brazilian designers] for fall. I try to Moss Mills leather belt. Stephanie Lindley, owner, James Gunn, Savannah, Ga.: buy exclusive lines from up-and-coming designers and one- “We booked very light for July and August, so we’ll add a few of-a-kind vintage pieces. last-minute orders to fi ll in and we’ll continue to book for fall. “I’ve never strayed from gold tones, brocade, strong We will have to be very excited about something [this market] hardware, metallic or clean cashmere lines, so I am stick- to book new lines. We always try to save a little open-to-buy ing with what works. I shop for solid wardrobe staples that FOR THE BOYS for fun immediates, but as a buyer, you’re programmed to look can be resurrected season after season with updated ac- ahead. Corey Lynn Calter, J Brand, Prairie New York, Julie cessories rather than slaving to the current trends. A great AMERICASMART’S PREMIERE SHOW IS BLOOMING Brown, AKA, T-Bags and Akiko are some of our favorite core pair of jeans is classic. I don’t follow skinny versus wide with new contemporary product, much of it for men. lines; 291 Venice is a great line of chic T-shirts, converted [or other denim trends]. I think it is a waste of money six Premiere has grown to 600 lines and 45,000 sweatshirts and yoga-type pants. I’m not a huge fan of fl orals, months later when the styles are outdated and overplayed. square feet of space, a 30 percent increase over last so I went very minimal on that trend. Ombré is very cool and “Rather than taking two or three buying trips a year, I October’s edition, which was the biggest show to right up our alley, so I will take that through fall. source on a monthly basis. I think it makes the store more date. Premiere runs concurrently with the women’s, “Thankfully, dresses are still a huge seller and were interesting to shop year-round. I love having the freedom accessories and children’s market, April 5 to 8. shown in every line through fall. Skirts and made a to pull in designs I discover in different cities on monthly Among lines new to Atlanta, Ted Baker London will showing for spring and summer and we booked some from buying trips.” have a double-decker atrium booth and will headline the Style Runway fashion show on April 5. As is the case with about 15 percent of Premiere’s new product, Ted Baker, which began in 1988 as a AmericasMart April 5-8, men’s shirt company, now also includes women’s wear. Atlanta Apparel Market Events AmericasMart Another key Premiere exhibitor, Ed Hardy, a Culver City, Calif., line of men’s jeans and Saturday, April 5 8-11 p.m.: Revival accessories, has expanded space from 1,600 square 6 p.m.: Style Runway Show A Pecan Pie Couture fashion event feet in January to 2,500 square feet for April, and Sponsored by Ted Baker London, the show benefi ting Seeds of Nutrition Atlanta. will also showcase licensed product. features bridal and special occasion looks. Presented by AmericasMart, the event In all, 75 men’s wear lines will show for the Ted Baker London brings fall men’s and features performances by local groups fi rst time at Premiere in April, many of them denim women’s collections to the Style Runway. and entertainers with a Southern- focused, including Edun by Ali Hewson and U2’s Includes women’s ready-to-wear, bridal inspired fashion show. Complimentary Bono, X-Ray Denim and Monarchy. designs and special occasion . admission for buyers. Discounted $20 Premiere will still feature plenty of women’s Cocktail reception at 6 p.m., show begins tickets at door for exhibitors with badge. contemporary apparel and accessories, including 6:30 p.m. Floor 15, Fashion Theatre Transportation provided. For information, new exhibitors like Italian dress line Dolce Vita. see pecanpiecouture.com. Opera nightclub, With its new contemporary focus, AmericasMart Sunday, April 6 1150B Peachtree Street, Midtown will target more shops like L Boutique, a specialty 6-8 p.m.: Shop late ’til 8 store in Sarasota, Fla., that carries such lines as Participating exhibitors indicated by Monday, April 7 Trina Turk, Tracy Reese and Bianco Nero. light blue balloons offer extended buying 6-8 p.m.: Spring Haute Bash “Every time I come to Atlanta, I see more of opportunities. Cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and Offi cial sequel to January’s signature event, the lines that I used to fi nd only in New York,” said networking. Floors 1 to 13 (Light bites and with sophisticated fare, open bar and DJ LeeAnne Swor, owner. bars on Floors 1 to 4.) Camille. Floor 1, Lobby — Georgia Lee

14 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 Clint Zeagler WWD.COM

“Wonder Woman” sold at $350. “In the women’s market, there are a lot of the same looks, fabrics and trends,” he said. “This design- Coming Home er is talented, she has a good eye and she’s defi nitely doing her own thing.” Two contemporary lines return to their Southern roots. — Georgia Lee Mizzae Pecan Pie Couture A decade as a stylist and personal assistant to some of Hollywood’s big- For Clint Zeagler, Southern cul- gest divas prepared designer Ellen Aitken for the challenges of launch- ture is much more nourishing ing an apparel line. than the sugary confection that “I learned about design, business, sales — everything, including how to inspired the name of his line — fi nd anything in any city in the world,” said Aitken, an Atlanta native who Pecan Pie Couture. moved to Los Angeles in 1994 and worked for Madonna, Nicole Kidman The depth of his roots didn’t and Cher. sink in until the rural Georgia na- With no formal apparel training, Aitken stayed true to her Southern tive graduated from Georgia Tech roots, going by her childhood nickname “Ellie Mae,” which the Hollywood and spent a year in Milan earning set found amusing. a master’s degree in fashion from “The most important thing I learned is not to be intimidated,” she said. the prestigious Domus Academy Starting as an assistant at Creative Artists Agency, she joined Universal of fashion and design. Studios, became an assistant to Steven Spielberg and then Kidman during He was so homesick, he had his the fi lming of the 1999 movie “Eyes Wide Shut.” Later, she had a three-year A look from mom send over a bag of grits, but he found that he missed more than the food. stint with Madonna. Mizzae. “Southern culture is deep and distinctive,” he said. “It’s in my heart. I discov- “I was responsible for planning everyday wardrobes, compiling outfi ts ered that I wanted to express it in fashion and everything I do.” from boutiques and showrooms in cities all over the world,” she said. “Of In 2006, he launched Pecan Pie Couture, which mixes down-home style with a course, the doors were all open.” hip, quirky humor and disarming honesty. While in Paris frantically pulling together other designers’ looks, she T-shirts, tank tops, and accessories are produced in the South, began to sketch her own — starting with pants. Back in Los Angeles, working as from organic cotton and materials grown in the region. Wholesaling from an independent stylist, Aitken produced her own one-of-a-kind $30 to $38, the line is carried in 25 Southeastern special-

looks from 1998 to 2004. FRO ty stores, a few in Ohio, and in Bloomingdale’s at Lenox R M E She returned to Atlanta in 2006 and, with a fi nancial backer T Square. Zeagler plans to expand with more sportswear in T

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0 L in place, is launching Mizzae, a contemporary line, for fall. The 0 the next few seasons. 2 , 4 2 JA RY ATLANTA 30-piece line has eight groups that can coordinate. In stretch NUA With two collections a year, T-shirts use phrases and embel- wool blends and chiffon, colors include neutrals like tan and lishment for a whimsical take on Southern stereotypes. off-white, black, navy and white, with wholesale prices from $85 to $295. His fi rst group, “Excess,” juxtaposed the Southern Belle with Marie Antoinette. Several trouser, jacket and blouse silhouettes create suit variations, with architec- Next came “Wampum Disco,” for which he employed Cherokee Indians to do hand- turally inspired shapes and asymmetrical lines. Though dramatic, with a boy-meets- beading. “Marching Band Glam” featured T-shirts with slogans such as “Shut Up girl theme, the line is intended to be more timeless than trendy, Aitken explained. and Twirl.” “I don’t want to design things that look dated in a picture fi ve years from now,” she Church revivals inspire the current fall collection, dubbed “Well Just Bless Your said. “The same pants I designed in 1998 are still wearable now.” Little Heart.” T-shirts include ruffl es and other embellishments. With a soft launch in seven specialty stores this fall, the line will be shown in re- Southern women, he said, are an endless source of inspiration. “Besides my Nana, gional markets in Atlanta, Dallas and Los Angeles, as well as the Designers & Agents Dolly Parton is my hero. At a Dolly Parton concert, there may be a hillbilly conservative trade shows in New York, Los Angeles and Paris. Aitken said she is aiming for $1 mil- from the Appalachian mountains on your left and a drag queen on your right, and every- lion in fi rst-year sales. one is a little on edge. But when Dolly walks out, everyone forgets who they are and just Bill Halman, owner of four namesake Atlanta contemporary women’s and men’s sings along. That’s what I try to do with my clothes — bring people together and make stores, said early selling was good, and that 10 units of a strapless, wide-leg, wool them realize its OK to laugh at yourself.”

Spring weather in CHANGE OF COURSE Atlanta is hit or miss, but the fashion in sually, the story goes that the small-town Ukid moves to the big city to find his dreams Virginia-Highland and fortune. But for David Gore and Seth Kloss, was on point last the direction was reversed. “We wanted to see what would happen if two week. Young women New York guys moved to Georgia for a change of stepped out in pace,” said Gore, who, with Kloss, opened high- transitional, layered end boutique Drew Lewis in Midtown last month. looks — skinny pants After relocating, the owners began stock- ing their 3,000-square-foot store with hard-to- and tights paired fi nd lines that many other Atlanta indepen- with minidresses or dents have not addressed, according to Gore, a tunics, cool novelty former visual merchandiser for Hugo Boss and Abercrombie & Fitch. Kloss handles the jackets and at least fi nances for the operation. one of three key “Merchandising in Atlanta is totally lacking. accessories: fl ats, We’re bringing lines to the South that customers haven’t been able to fi nd down here,” said Gore, knee-high boots or an who projects $400,000 in fi rst-year sales. oversize handbag. Offering an equal balance of women’s and men’s product at retail prices from $80 to $2,000, Drew Lewis carries contemporary brands in- cluding Alexander Wang, APC, Vena Cava, Band of Outsiders, Sea and Sass & Bide, along with a smattering of accessories, including Heather Hawkins clutches. While Gore and Kloss carry Drew Lewis owners 10 styles of William Rast jeans, they’re being David Gore (left) and very selective with denim overall. Seth Kloss in their “There are way too many denim-driven stores store. [in Atlanta],” said Gore, who scours Coterie and PSHONE.COM PHOTO BY Project for most of his merchandise, heading to AmericasMart for a few lines such as Poppysam the walls, serving as shelves for apparel. and Cooper by Courtney. “We want to change “The interior is just as important as the that. When people think of Atlanta fashion, we clothes. At Drew Lewis, you want to be a part of want them to think of our store.” the atmosphere,” said Gore. Certainly, customers aren’t likely to forget On the drawing board, Gore plans to launch it. The store’s decor is as unique as its product a line of playful, graphic T-shirts for holiday or mix and refl ects the owners’ allegiances to both spring. New York and the South, without taking either While he and Kloss aim to bring a Manhattan too seriously. The fi rst fl oor, dedicated solely to sensibility to Atlanta retail, they also want to men’s wear, is lined with traditional oil paint- garner attention for local lines. Each month, ings that might be stuffy and pretentious were the store will spotlight an Atlanta designer by it not for the Drew Lewis graffi ti emblazoned carrying some of the line’s offerings and re- across the canvases. turning 100 percent of the sale proceeds to the China cabinets display a large selection of Tom designer. Ford eyewear (18 styles each for men and women), Although only in the preliminary stages, and scaffolding serves as clothing racks. Upstairs, Gore also hopes to start Atlanta Fashion Week, women are pampered in a boudoir setting of an event that a few local organizations have at- plush carpeting, curtains and lots of brocade tempted previously, but with little success.

PHOTOS BY DANNY ACRES PHOTOS BY accents. Colorful antique chairs are mounted on — Elizabeth Thurman 15 West 37th Street, NYC 10018 212.768.9095 www.carolinaamato.com

CAROLINA AMATO

GLOVES AND WRAPS 16 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 WWD.COM

FRO R M Southern Delights: The New Taste of Atlanta E T

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8 L 0 0 2 Thanks to a cultural and business revival, Downtown is upping its , 20 ATLANTA MARCH culinary quotient. Here are two new eateries, both within walking distance of AmericasMart. — Elizabeth Thurman

Peasant: Peasant Bistro joins established dining destinations Mick’s and Pleasant Peasant as the third installment in a chain largely responsible for shaping the course of Seventies in-town dining. Here, chef Shane Devereux prepares country French and Mediterranean fare in a dramatic space over- looking Centennial Park and the Atlanta skyline. Try the mussels cooked in pinot grigio, Georgia trout with almonds and lamb tangine with couscous. Polish it off with pecan sticky pud- ding, then head to the bar downstairs via a dramatic, sweeping stair- case for some specialty cocktails — Jack Daniels made with ginger “Red Canna” by cream or a tiramisu martini. The bar serves lighter fare, including “The Tiber” Georgia O’Keefe. French onion soup, burgers and mussels Provençal.

Room: Housed in a prime Downtown spot — the ground fl oor of one of Atlanta’s trendiest hotels — Room at Twelve Centennial Park, Concentrics PART-TIME LOUVRE Restaurants’ newest rt lovers looking for an alternative to a France, and displayed many of these works at launch, serves a mix of A pricy Parisian trip now can view some of Malmaison, her residence near Paris. contemporary American Room the same masterpieces at “Louvre Atlanta.” Josephine’s collection isn’t the only female cuisine and innovative “The Louvre and the Ancient World” and point of view examined at the High Museum. Japanese dishes, courte- “The Eye of Josephine” are the latest install- “Georgia O’Keefe and the Women of the sy of executive chef Nick ments at Atlanta’s in a Stieglitz Circle” highlights O’Keefe’s iconic Oltarsh and sushi chef three-year partnership with one of the world’s floral landscapes and the lesser- known, but Tomohiro “Tomo” Naito. most famous museums. This affi liation started equally fascinating, work of fi ve women — Pamela Oltarsh’s anchor in 2006 and runs through 2009. Colman Smith, Katharine Nash Rhoades, Georgia dishes, including “The Tiber,” a 10-foot-long marble sculpture Engelhard, Gertrude Käsebier and Anne Brigman, salmon Milanese with from Roman antiquity, greets visitors at the en- all protégés of photographer Alfred Stieglitz, chopped salad and trance. Discovered in 1512, the statue, restored O’Keefe’s husband. braised short ribs with for this exhibition, depicts a virile River God, From Käsebier’s pastoral scenes of mother stir-fry vegetables, are Romulus and Remus at his side, a metaphor for and child to Brigman’s female nudes inter- complemented perfect- the river’s mythical powers of fertility. twined with trees, rocks and natural land- ly by Tomo’s more ad- The Ancient World exhibit includes some scapes, the exhibition portrays the women’s venturous plates — toro of the Louvre’s oldest antiquities, dating from struggles for independence and expression and tartare with caviar is a the third millennium B.C. to the third century the emergence of photography as an art form. must-try. Feeling inde- A.D., from Egypt and areas of modern Iraq “The Eye of Josephine” runs through May cisive? Order the Room and Syria. 18, “The Louvre and the Ancient World” runs platter, a sampling of “The Eye of Josephine,” a mix of Greco- through Sept. 7 and “Georgia O’Keefe and the sushi highlights. Get Roman and Egyptian frescoes and bronze and Women of the Stieglitz Circle” runs through close to the action at the marble statues, highlights the 19th-century May 4. sushi bar, where diners can peer directly into the open kitchen. fascination with antiquities. Like her prede- The High Museum of Art Atlanta is at 1280 Room’s bartenders mix colorful and playful libations, like the Georgia cessor Marie Antoinette, Josephine Bonaparte Peachtree Street, NE; 404-733-4437 or High.org. Mint Julep, the Carrot Gingerini and the Red Pepper Mojitotini. aspired to be the art and cultural authority of — Georgia Lee WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 17 WWD.COM

“Paris always crystallizes the season,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion offi ce and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman. “It’s TheWWDList clear that there’s a balance of options, dominated by sharp, clean, neo- ladylike dressing [on the one hand]...and soft, languid romanticism on the other.” Collections widely praised by retailers included Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin, Junya Watanabe, Givenchy, Chanel and Alexander McQueen. Movers and shakers included number one-ranked Lanvin, which jumped from fourth place last season to take the top spot from Chanel, and Givenchy — which leaped from number 16 last season to Applause for Paris number 10. — Cecily Hall The top 20 most-viewed Paris fall collections on Style.com.

LANVIN MIU MIU Page views: 2,601,017 Page views: 1,312,332 Topping the rankings for the fi rst time, “Alber Elbaz Miuccia Prada’s take on fall for Miu Miu? Sporty. She made modern glamour look effortless in the beautiful showed variations on a sporty jumpsuit, like the zip-up fall collection he showed for Lanvin, which centered sheath, a jacket over biker shorts and even a thermal 1 around all sorts of ribbons,” said WWD. He kept a 11 — all of which featured press-on monograms dark scheme throughout, but inserted glittering Deco- that could be the hot new trend. Accessories came in inspired jewels to brighten up the runway. the form of galoshes and retro-looking bowling bags. CHRISTIAN DIOR STELLA MCCARTNEY Page views: 2,521,723 Page views: 1,276,222 With Baby Jane Holzer, Raquel Welch and Mrs. Stella McCartney’s fall runway was full of romantic, Robinson on his mind, John Galliano showed a feminine pieces, like the bunched chiffon dresses and glamorous, yet wearable, collection. There were chic short, strapless lace frocks. She went big on her range 2 furs, ladylike accessories and dresses done up in 12 of coats worn over fl eecy boots, and with the prints and fl ashy embroideries. came in myriad dresses embellished with shields. colors, often worn with Stephen Jones’ . ALEXANDER MCQUEEN HERMES Page views: 2,243,061 Page views: 1,215,284 The fairy tale Alexander McQueen spun on his runway Timeless staples were in full force for Jean Paul revealed a breathtaking lineup. Inspired by a 600-year- Gaultier’s Hermès collection. He showed cashmere old elm tree in his garden as well as a trip to India, the wrap skirts, silk-scarf , cashmere peacoats, 3 designer showed dark, Victorian Goth looks, like the 13 handkerchief dresses, classic trenches, suede black dresses over petticoats. Models wore dresses and handbags galore. Throughout, Gaultier used the encrusted with jewels or under cutaway frock coats. house’s paisley scarf prints to accompany his looks. BALENCIAGA NINA RICCI Page views: 2,228,196 Page views: 1,183,701 Nicolas Ghesquière delivered a darker, more mature Working with a palette mainly consisting of orange, fall — one that “was on-trend, yet light-years ahead of copper and mauve, Olivier Theyskens sent out jackets the pack,” said WWD. He showed dark, sultry pieces, over silk chiffon blouses, printed dresses, silk blazers 4 and worked with everything from wool crepe to plastic 14 and . “Slim silhouettes were modern and and latex. Ghesquière sent out vibrant velvet tops and arty in their slender curves, strongest in the endless a lineup of imaginative dresses. array of gorgeous jackets,” noted WWD. LOUIS VUITTON DRIES VAN NOTEN Page views: 1,995,832 Page views: 1,180,298 Marc Jacobs showed a collection full of structure. Dries Van Noten went heavy on prints for fall, after Stripped of decoration, his pieces consisted of cozy having traveled to Switzerland and Lyon, France, fabrics — blanket cashmeres and corduroy were in full to scour the archives of the great fabric houses. He 5 effect. Zip-up coats and jackets were molded to torsos, 15 showed tunics over skirts or pants, sweaters with while skirts revealed roller-coaster curves. And the graphic constructions, serenely shaped column bags? Ultrachic, clean shapes in embossed skins. dresses, tailored jackets and aged-looking furs. CHANEL VALENTINO Page views: 1,959,341 Page views: 1,165,894 Karl Lagerfeld’s primary motif for Chanel’s fall was to Alessandra Facchinetti turned out her fi rst-ever collection work a curve, “which resulted in linear cutaway shapes for Valentino — and it’s likely to please fans, especially such as jackets and coats that opened to show the the younger set. She played with recurring motifs, like 6 pieces beneath, or dresses with a subtle capelike effect 16 the ribbon-swirl rosettes and pleat-front skirts. Coats

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BY in back,” said WWD. He showed lean suits, frothed-up and dresses were standouts, as were the white Sixties- , ribbed cozy knits and belted coats. ish coat and those signature red evening gowns. OLF AND JEAN PAUL GAULTIER PHOTOS BY DELPHINE ACHARD; PHOTOS BY GAULTIER OLF AND JEAN PAUL JOHN GALLIANO VIKTOR & ROLF Page views: 1,608,025 Page views: 1,163,085 Following an hour-plus wait for John Galliano’s fall Declaring their fall collection “a glamorous protest,” show, guests were treated to quite the production, as Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren sent out looks the venue was done up like an old movie set. Galliano screaming the words “No” and “Dream On.” The 7 sent out playful, colorful frocks, like the girlish dresses, 17 messages were delivered on a gray fl annel coat, a as well as glam furs and a blue sweater coat with T-shirt, even down one sleeve of a jacket. Flashes of impressive embroidery. color stood out in a slick red sheath and a wine chemise. YVES SAINT LAURENT JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Page views: 1,517,944 Page views: 1,158,836 Yves Saint Laurent’s girl is now bold, confi dent and Opening his show to the music of Michael Jackson’s ultrachic. Stefano Pilati “sent out an army of latter- “Thriller,” Gaultier sent out “a nimble dance between day power women in attitude and guise,” said animal-kingdom costumery and straight-up sportswear,” 8 WWD. He showed wool dresses with curved panels 18 said WWD. He showed heavy doses of animal prints, and sculptured jackets. Even when Pilati softened up, belted trenches, mammoth coats, puffed-up jackets, “restraint prevailed, as with a teal jersey dress.” stoles, messenger bags and fur-trapper hats. CHLOE VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Page views: 1,495,553 Page views: 906,683 Paulo Melim Andersson showed pretty chiffon tea Calling the collection “Chaos Point,” Vivienne dresses in Seventies-esque garden-fl oral prints, tailored Westwood sent out her familiar unruly taffeta vests, beaded dresses and patterned blouses. But the dresses — 17th century in shape. She even invited 9 effort proved to be Melim Andersson’s last for the house: 19 British elementary school children to “hand-paint the Two weeks later, he was pushed out, to be replaced by collection in a barrage of charmingly messy designs longtime design team member Hannah MacGibbon. and vibrant colors,” noted WWD. GIVENCHY YOHJI YAMAMOTO Page views: 1,410,231 Page views: 843,589 Riccardo Tisci looked to his trips to Latin America Yohji Yamamoto, who played the guitar while featuring for fall and showed an elegant collection full of old- his fall collection, worked in beautifully complicated world conquistador style. Models emerged in gold- cuts, volumized skirts and wool jerseys. Other hits were 10 chain accessories, as well as sexy gypsy blouses and 20 the tweed jackets nipped at the , the chic coats and toreador-style jackets. Black lace and Moorish-jewel the new Yohji bag — an oversize, shoulder-strap affair decorations accompanied the pieces as well. that he designed in collaboration with Hermès. LANVIN, CHRISTIAN DIOR, JOHN GALLIANO, YVES SAINT LAURENT, CHLOE, GIVENCHY, STELLA MCCARTNEY, NINA RICCI, VALENTINO, VIKTOR & R VIKTOR NINA RICCI, VALENTINO, STELLA MCCARTNEY, GIVENCHY, CHLOE, YVES SAINT LAURENT, JOHN GALLIANO, LANVIN, CHRISTIAN DIOR, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, BALENCIAGA, LOUIS VUITTON, CHANEL, MIU MIU, HERMES, DRIES VAN NOTEN AND YOHJI YAMAMOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; GIOVANNI BY YAMAMOTO VUITTON, NOTEN AND YOHJI CHANEL, MIU MIU, HERMES, DRIES VAN ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, BALENCIAGA, LOUIS SOURCE: STYLE.COM; PAGE VIEWS WERE TALLIED OVER THE FIRST 12 DAYS FOLLOWING EACH COLLECTION’S PRESENTATION; THE TOP 20 SHOWS DURING THE FIRST 12 DAYS OF ITS RUN RECEIVED IN TOTAL ALMOST 31 MILLION PAGE VIEWS, A 4 PERCENT INCREASE OVER THE SHOWS FROM A YEAR AGO 18 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 WWD.COM Clarins in Deal With Swarovski Fashion Scoops Groupe Clarins said Wednesday it has “There are not many major brands still on the PARIS — added Swarovski to its portfolio of beauty licenses. market [for beauty licenses],” said Joel Palix, JEWELS: With a reported net worth of $600 to $800 million, romance Clarins’ Thierry Mugler Parfums division will president of Thierry Mugler Parfums, adding novel Danielle Steel has to fi nd other things to do with her cash have responsibility for developing the worldwide Swarovski is a fast-moving, dynamic business besides couture. And diamonds, rubies and other rare gemstones clearly beauty license for the Austrian crystal giant. It will with multiple store openings and brand expan- do just fi ne. Steel has long been private about her passion for collecting, develop fragrance, cosmetics and beauty accesso- sion plans in the works. “Swarovski is a new kind but come April 16 her secret is out. She is auctioning off a selection of ries under the name Swarovski Beauty, with the of brand [for Clarins], not inspired by fashion but her of jewelry at Christie’s Jewels — The New York Sale. Among the lot fi rst products slated to hit shelves in 2010. Financial from another origin, cut crystal.” is a diamond-and-black-coral owl brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, which terms of the 10-year deal were not disclosed. “We share the same values of respect, tradi- is estimated to go for $15,000 to $25,000, and a pair of sapphire and The announcement confi rms a report that ap- tion, expertise, innovation and independence diamond Trumpet Flower ear clips by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. peared in these pages earlier this month. as Swarovski,” stated Christian Courtin-Clarins, In 2006, Christie’s auctioned off the jewelry of Ellen Barkin to the tune of News of the deal, however, was overshadowed Clarins’ chief executive offi cer. $20.4 million. Auctions that involve celebrities typically drive prices above somewhat by the report that 2007 net profi ts fell Beauty isn’t Swarovski’s fi rst departure from its market value. 59.4 percent versus 2006, to 90.7 million euros, cut-crystal origins. In recent years, executives have or $124 million at average exchange. Clarins ex- been pushing the brand into other activities, which PEACHES FOR PPQ: plained the drop is due to a now include jewelry, home Peaches Geldof, the tough comparison with 2006, decor and accessories. party-loving daughter when profi ts were bolstered “Swarovski’s position in of , is the by a one-off gain involving BEAUTY BEAT the luxury market today is latest celebrity to turn L’Occitane. Excluding that op- the result of the company designer. She will create eration, 2007 net profi ts declined 1.7 percent year- following the philosophy of our founder, who was a capsule collection of on-year. also my great-great-grandfather: to continuously dresses, separates and At 11.1 percent, the fi rm’s operating margin, engage in new market challenges and in products bags for the London meanwhile, came in under the 13.2 percent re- that express the poetry of precision and create joy ready-to-wear label ported at the end of 2006. The fi rm stated this is and emotion,” stated Markus Langes-Swarovski, PPQ for fall, all based a result of unfavorable foreign exchange trends, executive board member of Swarovski. around her namesake which impacted sales and manufacturing costs; Swarovski Beauty products will be sold in color mixed with Gothic the increased share of its new makeup collections Swarovski’s 1,150 stores and concessions world- black touches. in its product mix, which incurred higher produc- wide, as well as on its e-commerce sites and Geldof is no stranger tion costs, as well as signifi cant marketing invest- through selective distribution channels. “It will to the brand, which PPQ designers Amy Molyneux and Percy Parker ments to support its brands. not be just another fragrance or makeup collec- thanks to its Eighties- with Peaches Geldof. Clarins’ 2007 operating profi t declined 12.5 per- tion,” said Langes-Swarovski, adding he admires infl uenced party dresses cent to 111.4 million euros, or $153 million. As re- Clarins’ Thierry Mugler business. “Both markets has become a favorite among London scenesters such as , ported, Clarins’ 2007 sales grew 4.2 percent year- are saturated, only interesting concepts are re- Agyness Deyn and Geldof, who’s even modeled in one of the label’s shows. on-year to reach 1.01 billion euros, or $1.38 billion ally successful.” “It’s a natural progression that Peaches is designing with us, she has at average exchange. “Our vision for Swarovski Beauty is to cre- always been one of our most confi dent customers,” said Percy Parker, The fi nancial news underscored the impor- ate an original luxury brand in a very crowded who founded PPQ with Amy Molyneux. “We have managed to provide her tance of the deal with Swarovski, a global luxu- market,” continued Palix, noting Thierry Mugler with everything a girl needs to party in, and now we have put our heads ry brand, which posted 2007 sales of 2.56 billion Parfums aims to tap Swarovski’s notoriety in together and taken things to the next step.” The line will launch at PPQ’s euros, or $3.5 billion at average exchange. The Asia, Central Europe, Italy and the U.K., as well Conduit Street store in London for fall, and will retail for up to 195 agreement is part of Clarins’ move to bolster its as its strength in travel retail. He added that pounds, or $394. And the line isn’t Geldof’s only foray into fashion — the fragrance business, following another licensing Thierry Mugler is especially strong in France sometime model and DJ also is set to star in a documentary for MTV in the deal with New York-based jewelry brand David and in the U.S. U.K., in which she’ll be fi lmed editing a weekly celebrity magazine. Yurman in fall 2006. — Ellen Groves

NEWBORNS: Celebutantes and on-again friends Nicole Richie and Paris Hilton joined their respective beaus, Joel and Benji Madden, last week for the opening of the Maddens’ DCMA Collective fl agship store in Los Angeles. The Good Charlotte rockers and brothers, along with their older brother Charming Shoppes Posts 4th-Qtr. Loss Josh and fellow partner Tal Cooperman, spent eight months building out the expansive space at Melrose and Martel Avenues — which includes an estructuring charges and year-ago quarter. the very difficult economy in empty swimming pool set up inside as a skateboarding bowl — to house Rprice promotions drove Excluding one-time restruc- which we are operating led to their skate-and-skull themed line. Charming Shoppes Inc. into the turing charges and other items, accelerated promotional activ- Both Hilton and new mom Richie are expanding their sartorial pursuits: red in the fourth quarter. Charming Shoppes posted a loss ity,” said chairman and chief ex- Hilton said she was adding , and makeup to her namesake The corporate parent of of 20 cents a diluted share. ecutive offi cer Dorrit Bern. line, while Richie is working on an unnamed 50-piece jewelry collection Lane Bryant, Fashion Bug and Sales for the three months Last year, Charming Shoppes to be released this fall, which she said would be carried in stores like Fred Catherines Plus Sizes, which fell 10.2 percent to $784.9 million closed 150 stores, cut 150 man- Segal and Kitson. “There are new beginnings all around,” Richie said. is under pressure from activist from $874 million, as total same- agement positions, repurchased investors, also forecast a loss of store sales dropped 9 percent. $253 million of its own shares 6 to 8 cents a diluted share in For the full year, the firm and relocated Catherines Plus the fi rst quarter, compared with lost $87.7 million, or 72 cents Sizes home offi ce to Bensalem earnings of 20 cents a year ago. a diluted share, excluding the from Memphis. For the three months ended one-time gain, compared with Charming Shoppes fi led suit Feb. 2, the Bensalem, Pa.-based earnings of $108.9 million, or 81 this month against two hedge fund retailer reported a loss of $128.7 cents, a year ago. Sales dipped investors, the Crescendo Partners million, or $1.10 a diluted share, 1.9 percent to $3.01 billion from and Myca Partners, alleging they excluding a one-time gain from $3.07 billion. were trying to put three directors an eminent domain settlement, “The combination of chang- on the board to infl uence deci- compared with earnings of $24.9 ing customer preferences from sions in their favor. million, or 19 cents, in the same our merchandise offerings and — Evan Clark Benetton Sets Share-Repurchase Plan By Andrew Roberts 16.3 percent increase in earn- which holds nearly 70 percent ings to 145 million euros, or of the company. MILAN — Benetton Group SpA $198.8 million at average ex- Benetton’s stock closed said Wednesday it would pro- change, on sales of 2.09 billion down 1.6 percent to 8.48 euros, pose to buy back up to 10 per- euros, or $2.86 billion. or $13.37, at the end of trading cent of its share capital at its an- Last month, Benetton said it in Milan on Wednesday. The nual meeting next month. expected sales growth to slow share price is down 28.5 per- Benetton said the proposed to between 6 and 8 percent on a cent this year. buyback of up to 18 million or- like-for-like basis this year. Net In addition to the buyback dinary shares would run for a profi ts and EBITDA are forecast proposal, Benetton plans to period of 18 months; enable the to grow over 7 percent. ask shareholders to approve purchase of a portfolio of trea- Benetton lost more than a an increase in its dividend of sury shares, “considering this third of its value on the Milan 8 percent. The Italian clothing to be a strategic investment ca- Stock Exchange in January on retailer said in a statement it pable of producing added value fears that slowing economic would submit the dividend of for shareholders,” and serve growth and consumer spending 0.40 euros, or 63 cents at current any share incentive schemes. could undermine middle market exchange, a share — equivalent Benetton said it does not cur- retailers this year. The Benetton to 73 million euros, or $115.1 rently hold any treasury shares. family has since added to its million — for shareholder ap- The company also said its controlling stake, buying shares proval on April 24 and 28. It re- board approved the 2007 fi nan- worth 5.5 million euros, or $8.7 turned a dividend of 0.37 euros, cial statements, which were million at current exchange, or 51 cents at average exchange, released last month, showing a through an investment vehicle, a share for 2006. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2008 19 ResourceDirectory To be included among the top places to work, call 1.800.423-3314 or email [email protected]

24 SEVEN JUICY COUTURE www.juicycouture.com LUCKY BRAND JEANS www.24seventalent.com Jobs.juicycouture.com www.luckybrandjeans.com [email protected] Jobs.luckybrandjeans.com

Project Solvers, Inc. www.coldwatercreek.com Karlyn Fashion Recruiters www.projectsolvers.com and click on Apply online at: [email protected] ’Careers at Coldwater Creek" www.karlyn.com or email at [email protected] 212-226-2432

CAROLE HOCHMAN DESIGN GROUP Rush & Company www.chdgroup.com KATE SPADE NEW YORK www.rushandcompany.com [email protected] www.katespade.com [email protected] (212) 725-1212 Jobs.katespade.com

JBC STYLE EAST LIZ CLAIBORNE Taylor Hodson, Inc. NEW YORK & LOS ANGELES www.lizclaiborneinc.com www.taylorhodson.com www.jbcstyle.com http://jobs.lizclaiborneinc.com [email protected] 212.355.3197 212-924-8300

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

OF THE TOP JOB WEEK CHARLES KOMAR & SONS Executive Account Manager APPLY NOW ON FASHIONCAREERS.COM New York City

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE

SALES REP Est. MissyDenim & Sportswear Manufacturer,currently in Major Showrooms & Lofts Department Stores - seekingan BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Senior Sales Executive Great ’New’ Office Space Avail experienced and highly motivated indiv. to represent our company. Est’ddesigner eveningwearlabel ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 serving premierDept. & Specialty Independent Sales Rep An active/existingspecialty store Fiorana, a "niche" contemporary denim account listis required and we stores seeks take-charge sales company, is seeking a high energy are open to opportunities you pro. Musthave proventrackrecord experienced ROAD WARRIOR for the &relationships w/top retailers & following territories: Southeast, We are currently experiencing excessive growth bring.The ideal candidate would Northeast, Mid-Atlantic Mid-West and operate from their current New specialty stores.Frequent travel South. Great opportunity to get in and seek committed and talented individuals to York showroom. for trunk and regional mkt shows with fast growing company! Please join our team for the following positions: a must. Please email resumes to: contact Erika at [email protected]. Email: [email protected] or [email protected] Vice President, Retail Merchandising fax to: 212-764-0501 Vice President, Sales Ready-To-Wear CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING Production Coord $70-$80K. Chinese Account Executive U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 Vice President, Operations and IT or Korean bilingual. Current exp in lab www.sanodesignservices.com dips, fit comments. CTL and MTL. Priv NewPremium denim brand seeks Corporate Controller ate label. Exp in retail link for Walmart asales person with specialty TO SELL [email protected] 973-564-9236 storesales experience, pref. in Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. Director of Production Camo Available. Cheap Prices. denim. Please email resume to: 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL Merchandise Planner PRODUCTION MGR $125-$150K. Cur- sales@DL1961 ProductionVP/Director rent exp in cut and sew knits/full fash- Full global sourcing, solid history Patterns/Samples/Production Account Executive, Shoes ion sweaters reqd. Strong exp with on-time delivery, increased profit levels, Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. Walmart standards. Min 50 mil vol exp. EXPERIENCED manage multi-divisional staff. Any Style Retail Buyer- Shoes and Accessories [email protected] 973-564-9236 SALESPERSON Clear/concise follow through from Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 Sportswear company looking for expe- inception to final shipping. Experi- Associate Designer-Wovens rienced sales person with 5 years or enced all lines. 631-940-1044 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Manager, Outbound Operations SALES Coord-4+ recent yrs exp coord more following in sweaters, novelty PRODUCTIONS sales for Target Stores only/mge back jackets and outerwear. Department For immediate consideration, please forward an end of sales process/comp lit. $50-60K and Specialty Store following a must. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Les Richards at (212) 221-0870 Fast growing company. Search Call Sherry 212-719-0622. updated resume along with your salary history & E-mail resume to PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] hundreds of expectations with position title in subject line to: Samplemaker or fax 212-302-5184 PRODUCTIONS [email protected] Growing Women’s couture co. seeks positions in Full service shop to the trade. highly skilled and exp’d individual. SALES ASSISTANT Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Stable position. Emphasis on evening. Fabric agent looking for experienced fashion, retail Patterns. Samples. DESIGN ASST Please call 212-869-2296 or fax resume person to assist in sales & administrative Women’s & Men’s Sportswear/Outerwear. Asst. Product Mgr Missy Swtr/Knit Co seeks Design Asst to 212-869-2236 duties. Exp pref’d. Pls send resume to European education & Training. Established Westchester based mfg. w/strong fashion background. Must (212) 764-2963 or [email protected] and beauty. www.eugenestailorshop.com seeks motivated self starter to assist have knowledge of garment construction, References available. 215-923-8081 product manager. Responsibilities will computer design and organizational SALES MANAGER....TO $125 BASE + include follow up on samples, trim, skills. Multi-tasker who can create SAMPLEMAKER Luxury Market, Accessories, Boutiques graphics, shipping status, etc. Great development pkgs. Email resumes to High end eveningwear co. seeks Allen Platt SRI Search 212-465-8300 opportunity for someone with 1-2 years [email protected] sample maker with minimum 5 years [email protected] experience. E-mail or fax resume to, experience in couture construction, www.srisearch.com 914-328-7941 or [email protected] Designer Assistant specializing in chiffon garments. Fast growing Missy Contemporary Co. CALL 212-302-2776 OR FAX 212-221-0509 CAD ARTIST seeks an Asst. Designer w/ 3+ yrs exp. OR EMAIL: [email protected] Estab childrenswear co. seeks CAD in cut & sew knits and wovens. Resp. SALES REPS artist w/ min 3 years related exp. Strong incl. sketching, sample room support, Contemporary line of ladies 100% Illustrator and Photoshop skills reqd. trim & trend research, generating line cashmere sweaters aimed at specialty Creative, w/production background pre- sheet. Computer literate, detailed stores seeks independent sales reps in ART DIRECTOR ferred. Email resume: [email protected] oriented, able to work efficiently in many territories. Must have following The Northwest Company; a leader in fast paced environment, a team player. of better specialty stores, show at the Home Textile industry, seeks atale Design Asst. Fax resume to: 212-221-1353 Sweater Designer VP regional markets & carry no competing nted Art Director to join our growing Missy Sportswear company seeks Design lines. If interested, please e-mail details, design department. Qualified candi- Maj Runway Contemp Desgr $150-250K including current package, to: Asst. w/strong fashion background. Patternmaker [email protected] 212-947-3400 dates must have a minimum of 5 years Must have knowledge of garment Couture house specializing in evening [email protected]. creative management experience in construction, computer design and seeks organized, exp’d professional that licensed products. Prior experience strong organizational skills. Multi-tasker works well under pressure & deadlines. TECHNICAL DESIGNER THE LIRIC GROUP with a licensor is a plus. Must be who can create development packages Must have good communication skills. PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER SAMPLE SPEC TECH SPECIALTY STORE SALES fluent in Photoshop and Illustrator. We also using illustrator, Photo shop, etc. Emphasis on custom as well as on Busy multi line showroom seeks offer a competitive compensation and Good communication skills a must to production. Must be able to create from Est’d. growing ladies mfg. seeks exp’d. benefits package. Please send resume follow up on sampling with production sketch & drape. Excellent opportunity. individuals to join our team. Great growth energetic. salesperson to join our team. along with salary requirements to: coordinator. Please e-mail resume to: Please e-mail or fax resume to: potential. Fax or email resume & salary Email Resume to: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] / 212-481-1968 req. to: 212-730-5993 / [email protected] [email protected] J>;FH;C?;HEDB?D;97H;;H9;DJ;HE<