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Leisure Lab: Made in L.A

Leisure Lab: Made in L.A

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$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 42 OCTOBER 11–17, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS

TRADE SHOW REPORT More Than a Trend, the Search for Sustainable Materials Brings Buyers to LA Textile

By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor

After evolving from a fringe trend among the hippie set, sustainability has taken a front seat in sourcing within the apparel industry. Nowhere was this more apparent recently than at the October edition of the LA Textile trade show, which was held at the California Market Center Oct. 2–4. While there were exhibitors who were featured exclusively as sustainable brands, many others joined the charge toward an ecologically beneficial supply chain by offering a selection of eco-friendly fabrics, notions and services. At Texollini, Director of Merchandising Sherry Wood noted that consumer demand is driving brands to source ➥ LA Textile page 3

RETAIL Ron Robinson to Phase Out Bricks-And-Mortar Business By Andrew Asch Retail Editor

Pioneering boutique retailer Ron Robinson will be closing his bricks-and-mortar stores by early 2020. His digital shops, www.ronrobinson.com and www.apothia.com, will continue to do business. In a recent email to his vendors, he said that he is not retiring, the shops were thriving financially and French Class relations with landlords were good. “I am announcing the Farewell Tour of the Ron Robinson retail stores at the end of this year,” Robinson wrote in an Returning to the French roots of founder Max Azria for its Fall/Winter emailed announcement dated Aug. 20. His shops reached a 41st anniversary this year. Robinson held back a formal 2019 collection, BCBGeneration incorporated pop-culture elements announcement because he did not want it to interfere with or affect Ron Robinson’s annual sale, which takes place in from the region with an air of youthful sophistication. September. He will make an official announcement after Oct. 15. “We have been fortunate to have reached not only ➥ Ron Robinson page 9 ZOEY GROSSMAN INSIDE: Retro French Pop Culture Inspires Where fashion gets down to business SM BCBGeneration’s FW19 Campaign For its Fall/Winter 2019 campaign, the Los Angeles– representation of BCBGeneration’s adventurous, free-spirited founded brand BCBGeneration relied on influences and playful customer.” from retro French popular culture to spread a message of Styled by Rachael Wang, pieces feature hues of cranberry, 4 8 empowerment for young women. Throughout the campaign, maize, caramel, plum and emerald. Designers used colorful which was shot by photographer Zoey Grossman at a mansion horizontal stripes in vibrant colors, while cozy Port of L.A. zero-emissions machines ... p. 2 in the Bel Air neighborhood in Los Angeles, references to a feature animal prints and a softer, pale-sky tone. Fall plaids Sustainable Fashion Forum ... p. 3 mischievous and whimsical style can be found in a collection for suiting and mini- combine black, gray and a light What’s Checking ... p. 6 that also nods to French sophistication. raspberry. “The Gen Girl represents the future, and we are proud to Warm, textured complete the looks in colors Fashion Scholarship Fund ... p. 9 have her fearless personality embodied in such a definitive complementary to the collection with solid or patterned , way,” Diane Bekhor, senior vice president of the BCBG one of which featured messaging declaring, “been there, done Group, said in a statement. “This campaign is the perfect that,” speaking to a confident, informed young woman.—D.C. www.apparelnews.net

01,3,9-cover-news.indd 1 10/10/19 5:39 PM TECHNOLOGY NEWS Week in Review World’s First Zero-Emissions Handlers Brookfield Properties LVMH led a $1.5 million Introduced at the Port of Los Angeles Appoints Moriah investment round in the Madhappy streetwear brand, which is Increasing its commitment to combat the megawatt battery within five hours. Within headquartered in downtown Los detrimental environmental effects of carbon each machine, a data logger will track hours Robinson as Director Angeles’ Arts District, according to emissions, the Port of Los Angeles unveiled of operation, charging frequency, energy media reports. Other investors include its new Taylor ZLC976 zero-emissions top usage and other performance indicators. of Events at CMC Tommy Hilfiger and the founders of handlers, which rely on battery-powered Additionally, workers will provide feedback the fast casual chain Sweetgreen. A electricity. Manufactured by Louisville, regarding maneuverability, noise levels and During last week’s LA Textile show and Madhappy representative declined to Miss.–based Taylor Machine Sustainable Fashion Forum, Brookfield answer questions on what the 2-year- Works, Inc., the pre-commercial, Properties announced its appointment of old brand will do with the money. on-dock cargo-handling trucks Moriah Robinson as director of events at the Madhappy manufactures T-, are the first of their kind in the California Market Center. As a packed and other basics for men and world. Through testing over October apparel- women. The brand achieved name the next year, the Port of Los and-fashion events recognition by producing parties at Angeles will examine how the schedule continues its pop-up shops. full capabilities of the machines with next week’s aid in supporting more-efficient productions of LA The environmental group and cleaner cargo handling at the Market Week, Extinction Rebellion put together Everport Container Terminal. Label Array, a dramatic protest during London “Today shows we are making Vegan Fashion Fashion Week earlier this month. good on our pledge to do the hard Week, LA Kids According to the New York Times, work of advancing commercially Market and LA people associated with Extinction feasible solutions to meet our Men’s Market, Moriah Robinson Rebellion produced a mock funeral goal of transitioning all cargo- Robinson is march for fashion. They walked handling equipment to zero ready to lead the down the Strand, where some fashion emissions by 2030,” said Port of The Taylor ZLC976 CMC’s event team week shows were taking place, and Los Angeles Executive Director following the departures of Senior Marketing shut down traffic. The group has Gene Seroka in a press release. Manager Becca Dawson on Oct. 4 and, critiqued the fashion industry for not “We’re excited to power up these battery- equipment safety. Robinson’s predecessor, Emilie Lewis, who being good environmental citizens. electric top handlers and test them under the “Today we mark another milestone in left the position in August. It demands that the fashion industry, real-world conditions of a working container our drive toward a zero-emissions future,” “Emilie Lewis, who held the role prior to along with other businesses and terminal.” said Los Angeles Harbor Commission me, is a fantastic woman who did such an governments, reduce their greenhouse The top handlers—also known as top President Jamie Lee, addressing the crowd. incredible job in the role. I want to live up gases to zero emissions by 2025. picks—were presented on Oct. 2 during “We’re also proud to continue our tradition to her standards. She was vastly talented and California Clean Air Day, when citizens are as a global leader in pioneering cleaner and has an extensive background in fashion,” said The RealReal is working with the encouraged to engage in energy-conservation more-efficient ways of moving cargo. These Robinson. “It was a project of hers and ours, Burberry fashion house to promote a practices that will lower emissions, such pre-commercial top handlers will undergo 12 as a team, to breathe new life into the fashion program that will encourage fashion as utilizing mass transit. With the ability months of testing under the rigorous operating district.” sustainability. People who consign to perform two full shifts—or 18 hours— conditions of a marine terminal.” As an events professional with an Burberry pieces at The RealReal the truck is able to fully charge its one- —Dorothy Crouch extensive background in the field, will be offered a personal shopping Robinson’s career includes three years as experience in select Burberry stores the special events manager at Madame across the U.S. Announced Oct. 7, Tussauds Hollywood and five years Pam Batty, Burberry’s vice president with Saks Fifth Avenue, working in the of corporate responsibility, said, company’s public-relations and events “Through this new partnership, department. Receiving the promotion, we hope to not only champion a from senior events manager, to lead a team more circular future but encourage during a time when the CMC is undergoing consumers to consider all the options Textile research and Product Development a project that includes extensive upgrades is available to them when they’re an opportunity for Robinson. looking to refresh their wardrobes.” “For us it’s less about the building, it’s about our corner. We want our objectives Bella + Canvas, a Los Angeles– to positively affect everybody in our headquartered basics brand, unveiled neighborhood,” she said. “The California a direct-to-consumer retail website Market Center has such a rich history. I am on Oct. 7. On shop.bellacanvas.com, Our fabrics are sold worldwide thrilled to be a part of the renovation project.” shoppers can buy men’s and women’s Our fabrics worldwide When Robinson discusses her new Bella + Canvas . Previously, role, she emphasizes a desire to blend the brand focused on business through her passion for events and fashion public its wholesale channels, said Danny BELGIUM GERMANY SPAIN TUNISIA relations with an effort to positively impact Harris, the brand’s co-founder and the area in which the CMC is located. A co–chief executive officer. “For us, a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Design move into the retail space has never CHINA JAPAN HOLLAND TURKEY & Merchandising’s Associate of Arts been a matter of if but when, and program, Robinson revealed that she is we’re excited to announce that time passionate about events and enriching the has finally come,” he said. Starting SOUTH KOREA GREECE PORTUGAL UNITED STATES experiences of visitors to the Fashion District in 2020, the brand also will produce in downtown Los Angeles. In Robinson’s bricks-and-mortar pop-up shops. opinion, the neighborhood receives an FRANCE ITALY unfair reputation. Through her new role, Target Corp. announced a she wants to change this perspective. “The new chief financial officer on Oct. Fashion District might have an antiquated 9. Michael Fiddelke will direct reputation as a part of L.A. that is a little bit financial planning and analysis, scary,” she explained. “That might prompt financial operations, accounting, buyers to go to the Dallas Market Center, investor relations, and taxes, among Atlanta or New York, and I really want to other initiatives. Fiddelke most Experts in Textile Research and Product Development change that image because it’s a very lively, recently served as Target’s senior safe, historic and groundbreaking section vice president of operations, said that we’re in.” Brian Cornell, Target’s chairman Through highlighting the culture of the and chief executive officer. Target Fashion District, Robinson hopes her team’s also announced that Mark Tritton, efforts will lead visitors to the CMC to Target’s chief merchant, will embrace the opportunities available in the leave the organization. Christina area. Hennington and Jill Sando will “We’re on the cutting edge of a lot of temporarily replace him by directing great art and creativity,” she said. “I want to the retailer’s merchandising. communicate to all of our buyers for trade [email protected][email protected] shows and showrooms that they should be shopping in L.A.”—D.C.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 11–17, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET Textile research and Product Development

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FRANCIA ITALIA TRADE SHOWS Fashiondex’s Sustainable Fashion Forum Addresses Solutions in Apparel Production

By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor to see it become a force for good,” he said. be unapproachable as a brand. Sometimes we “Collaboration across the entire value chain do the math and it is unworkable.” This October’s LA Textile show, held from the farmer to the citizen is the only way On the bright side, Mallet reported that her Oct. 2–4 at the California Market Center, to transform this industry.” company is working with suppliers to find a featured the third Los Angeles edition For attendee Ladi Saka of downtown middle ground to remain at the forefront of of the Sustainable Fashion Forum by Los Angeles –based Tekton, a company that sustainable-apparel production. Fashiondex. Hosted on Oct. 3 in the Fashion provides apparel printing and embroidery, The constant conflict between producing Theater of the CMC, the event focused on the message of sustainable manufacturing sustainably, through environmentally production solutions. As consumers continue is personal. His business partner, Christian sound practices and ethical manufacturing, to lead more-ethical and eco-friendlier Martinez, is the son of a screenprinting is a great challenge to the apparel industry. lifestyles, the sustainable movement has worker whose job exposed him to materials A large piece of the sustainable-apparel reached mainstream status in the apparel that caused him to return home each day manufacturing puzzle requires manufacturers industry. Attendees were able to meet with smelling of potentially toxic chemicals. The to examine ways in which they can produce companies that offer sustainable products and From left, Nancy Miller, chair of fashion event provided opportunities for Saka to meet clothing while creating a work environment services while listening to industry experts on merchandising at LIM College, and Avedis with like-minded professionals who value in which employees are valued. Seferian, president and CEO of , discuss sustainability provide guidance through their standards and certifications collaboration. As a member of the Domestic Production visions for the future. “We need each other. People don’t like to Panel, led by Study NY and Re:Source’s Offering a transparent approach to always share their secrets, but at least here you Tara St James, Lusine Mkrtchyan revealed event production, the team at Fashiondex nonprofit organization One Tree Planted can get information to further your business the realities of producing apparel locally. sought to build upon the progress made to plant a tree for each person who was in and help each other,” he said. “A lot of these The Los Angeles founder of the full-service during previous installments of the forum. attendance. With 378 trees needed to offset speakers are encouraging each other to excel. apparel-consulting firm PremierSource Founder Andrea Kennedy revealed that the carbon emissions created by speakers’ This event is not about being flashy. People made a connection between the closure of show operations supported an ecologically transportation and more than 287 necessary to are actually talking about sustainability.” manufacturing businesses in the city to job sound mission through using recycled combat the impact of attendees, Fashiondex loss and poverty. badges, creating badge lanyards using committed to planting a total of nearly 700 The ecological and ethical costs “It’s sad to see people lose their jobs. Brands donated downcycled fabric strips from the trees. keep pushing prices down, and minimum Jessica Simpson brand, reusing signs and During her presentation, which revealed wage is going up. It’s a struggle out there and banners, providing 100 percent certified- Working well together the sustainable initiatives at the Culver hard to see,” she said. “The trend is in niche organic-cotton bags, locally sourcing show City, Calif.–based Outerknown, Mallet took manufacturing and people caring more about programs, and providing compostable cups A large problem within the fashion questions from members of the audience, one where they are making their clothes.” and utensils during meals. industry has been a lack of willingness on the of whom asked about the greatest challenges Working in Los Angeles, Mkrtchyan has “We are committed to reducing waste at part of professionals to collaborate. Fearful faced by the brand. One of the largest witnessed the economic devastation caused this forum, and when we cannot reduce it we of becoming vulnerable by working with sourcing-related hurdles for Mallet is finding when brands fail to establish relationships are committed to offsetting it and trying to get competitors, brands were once resistant to materials created with natural and sustainable and conduct business with local production to carbon neutral for this and all the events sharing better methods of production, but this fibers. Of particular concern was the high partners. She encouraged designers to create that Fashiondex is a part of,” said Kennedy. antiquated point of view is changing. minimums that are, at times, associated with goods in Los Angeles and use natural, organic “We’re committed to sharing that information Prior to introducing Outerknown’s these fabrics. materials. with you so you can do the same.” director of design, Bethany Mallet, Nicholas “Sometimes we fall in love with a fabric, “I am in the factories all day, every day, This movement to reduce the event’s Brown of Fashion Revolution USA revealed but the minimums to get it converted to and I am seeing what is going on in the streets carbon footprint included a new initiative a key element driving the industry toward organic cotton are 7,000 yards, and we’re not of Los Angeles. I would love to see jobs through which Fashiondex offset carbon greater sustainability. there yet,” she said. “Sometimes we fall in come back to L.A.,” she said. “When you talk emissions for speakers and attendees by “We often call ourselves pro-fashion love with beautiful recycled wool, but, for the to someone at a factory, ask them, ‘Are you partnering with the Shelburne, Vt.–based protesters. We love fashion and we want price point, we want to deliver value and not looking for quality or quantity?’”

LA Textile Continued from page 1 enhance old garments and create new pieces. worked in the California apparel industry She has relied on pop-up shops at retailers since 1985 within the segment and sustainable materials. With the younger including Williams-Sonoma and West Elm brands such as Jessica McClintock. While generation, she explained that the entire to sell her pieces, which resemble works of art exploring the LA Textile show, Zulaica was lifestyle is moving toward ecological and have featured pictures of such luminaries focused on fresh, new offerings, particularly mindfulness—“commute to work, food, as Sade, Nipsey Hussle, Bob Marley, Marilyn in the sustainable segment. composting, they’re looking at it from the Monroe and Frida Kahlo. “I look for natural fibers and the new ground stages up through the supply chain.” “By day, I work at various showrooms. I little hook that might be starting to gel, The demand has moved into the apparel am also a fashion dumpster diver searching particularly what they’re trying to do with industry, where she noticed a new trend for fabrics and scraps. I do army couture and taking recycling to a new level,” in next-generation fabrics. This shift now by taking scraps and trim, applying them she explained. “In one area of the show, they includes biodegradable materials, which the on the backs of or adding a vintage were fusing different fabrics together, and company has introduced. T-,” she explained. “The main thing is to you could sample little pieces.” “Now people want the whole story. At reduce my carbon footprint. It’s been a great Roni Walter discusses her collection with an LA Visiting from New York, Tara St James, the consumer level, they are more educated show. The people who approach me want to Textile attendee. owner of the Study brand and a member of regarding fibers and processes. They are collaborate.” the Re:Source sustainable-textile consulting asking questions that go back to the designers In addition to greener exhibitor offerings and Ken Dor, whom she met at previous company, was searching for more-eco- and brands,” she said. “We’ve been carrying and the third installment of the Los Angeles textile trade shows. friendly fabric options. recycled nylon, poly and organic cotton for Sustainable Fashion Forum by Fashiondex, “I bought Ken Dor’s Tencel, and she was “My brand, Study, only uses natural fibers over 10 years now. Every year, you see a little held on Oct. 3, the seminars at this LA Textile trying to help me order sustainable lining,” such as organic cotton, linen and recycled more interest, but this year it’s everyone.” reflected the movement toward creating a said Mitchell. “It’s important because it’s cotton, recycled wool. I work with the New At the booth for Los Angeles–based Design more-sustainable apparel industry. Among good to be able to feel the fabrics, the quality Denim Project,” she said. “I also manage a Knit, Pat Tabassi, who focuses on product sessions such as “Properly Prepare for the and who is selling it. For me, having a good sustainable-materials library in New York, development, noticed that companies are Launch: The Exact Step-by-Step Strategy relationship is important and being able to see so I also help other brands find materials. For becoming more mindful. They not only want of What You Need Before You Launch the other sources. Just being able to network them, it’s across the board—recycled poly to contribute to maintaining the health of the Your Line” and “Tariffs, Transportation with other designers and brands puts you in a and recycled nylon.” planet, but they also don’t want to spend money & Sourcing: Your Questions Asked & circle of good people.” During her first day at the show, St on materials that will be wasted. To meet this Answered,” there were others that spoke to the Compared with larger trade shows, James was pleased to see established demand, the company introduced its DK Studio current demand for sustainability, including Mitchell appreciated the mindfulness that industry players adopting new, sustainable collection, which is offered at low minimums. an “Industry Expert Panel on Sustainable was dedicated to planning the event. With approaches to their businesses. She also “There is a mindfulness that we want to Business: Why It Requires More Than Just complimentary ride-share options, meals, noted that the sustainability shift is moving make quality goods rather than a ton of stuff Renewable Resources to Create Longevity and arts and crafts, she was able to focus on into the luxury segment, an important that is going to wind up in a landfill,” she said. in Today’s Ever-Changing Market,” “Save business while also having a bit of fun. direction for a category infamous for “We also, within the new DK Studio line, have the Rain Initiatives: Why Clean Projects?” “It made it enjoyable to work and figure conspicuous overconsumption. a lot of sustainable items. Within the general and a “Sustainability Panel: Viewpoints from out what the next good fabric you want to “I spoke with Dutel Creations, and what collection it’s always existed, but within Studio Industry Leaders.” use was. My favorite part was doing the arts I liked about them is that they had a small it’s a category continuing to grow.” Shopping for her luxury, sustainable, and crafts,” she said. “There was so much sustainable collection. They are an older Exhibitors also included companies such hemp-based luggage brand Urbane Luggage, peace of mind. Usually I am overwhelmed, mill that is trying to convert everything to as the Poetronigirl Brand, by designer Roni Los Angeles–based Nicole Mitchell was but having that mental break to enjoy myself sustainable options, and I really appreciate Walter, who is on a mission to “save the planet searching for eco-friendly fabrics to support was important and allowed me to bring good that effort,” she explained. “They are doing it one garment at a time.” Showcasing upcycled her mission. A former travel-industry energy to everyone around.” slowly to gauge interest and ensure the quality clothing designs from $100 to $1,500 retail, professional, Mitchell wanted to have face Attendee Linda Zulaica of Pasadena, level stays the same as what they have put out Walter utilizes dead stock and fabric scraps to time with exhibitors such as Carr Textiles Calif.–based White Duck Clothing has for their customers.”

APPARELNEWS.NET OCTOBER 11–17, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3,9-cover-news.indd 3 10/10/19 5:40 PM EVENTS Apparel Leaders Discuss Post–Glass Ceiling Business at City of Hope Fashion + Brunch During its “Fashion + Brunch: A Women’s Leadership Panel,” hosted Sept. 26 at The Line Hotel, located in Los Angeles’ It takes dollars to make a difference Koreatown, the cancer-treatment-center City of Hope raised more than $50,000. Organized by City of Hope’s Fashion and Retail The California Fashion Association responds to every Council, the inaugural luncheon included issue affecting the apparel and textile industry of Califor- sponsors Rosenthal and Rosenthal, CIT, HUB International, Moss Adams LLP, nia…and is making a major impact on the media, as well The TJX Companies, Inc. and Wells Fargo From left, Sharleen Ernster, Trina Turk, Ilse as city, state and federal officials. & Company. Attendees were invited to Metchek, Janet Yamamoto-Concannon and shop brands including Michael Stars, Trina Suzanne Lerner Turk, The Giving Keys and We Are HAH. The California Fashion Association offers access to While there were opportunities to shop said. “We purchased and packed toothpaste, professional advice and service for every facet of the these fashionable and philanthropic brands, toothbrushes, shampoo, deodorant and the event was organized to cover a serious Chapstick to make a hygiene kit for a couple business. If you are involved in domestic manufacturing, topic under the theme of “We’ve broken the hundred homeless people.” or off-shore programs, the issues within the industry glass ceiling! Now what?” During a panel Looking back on her own career, Ernster affect your growing businesses! discussion that included Sharleen Ernster, recalled how she became driven by the idea founder and chief executive officer of We of working toward change prior to founding are HAH; Suzanne Lerner, co-founder and her company. Years ago, as an executive, We welcome your participation in the business-of-doing- president of Michael Stars; Trina Turk, she was on the job hunt, interviewing with business. founder and creative director of her own different companies. She had been searching eponymous brand; and Janet Yamamoto- for a role that would allow her to work toward Concannon, senior vice president of Wells eco-friendlier apparel and help women feel Join us now! Fargo & Company, these female leaders comfortable yet beautiful in their own skin. participated in a conversation moderated by “I walked into my home with my daughters CFA California Fashion Association President after picking them up from school. I looked at Ilse Metchek. them and had a moment where I thought, ‘I 444 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, CA 90071 Through this discussion, the women can either continue to go about this and not Tel: 213 688 6288. Fax: 213 688 6290 shared ideas regarding how to continue the take the plunge or I can open the business and Email: [email protected] momentum of positive change after achieving try’,” she said. “At least my daughters would success in their careers. While reflecting upon see a woman risk that and know that they Website: www.californiafashionassociation.org their careers, the panelists discussed the ways could also risk that for their dreams.” in which they are lifting up others to provide It is Ernster’s hope that successful women new opportunities through initiatives that continue to be driven by the potential to promote social welfare, women’s equity and create positive change that can contribute to positivity, and the environmental health of the a better planet and elevate others who are planet. still building their careers. By charting a path For Yamamoto-Concannon, her most toward more-sustainable, ethical practices recent plan to contribute to the greater good in the apparel industry, Ernster has brought was through her company’s Community visibility to these issues, but she admits that Support Month, which took place in her success isn’t the end of her story. September. The company-wide initiative “We have to continue to lead with the allowed employees to participate in a same passion and blaze the trails to make the Dedicated Day of Service, during which they differences in how you make things and who dedicated their time on Sept. 20 to nonprofit you employ and how you treat your people organizations through volunteer work. in the whole pipeline,” she said. “There is so “[My colleagues and I] went to a nonprofit much work to be done. The whole world is IT called PATH in downtown L.A. They provide galvanizing around this as being important affordable housing for the homeless,” she for the first time.”—Dorothy Crouch

La Lame, Exclusive supplier of stretch fabrics Calendar Oct. 14 Cooper Design Space Oct. 17 presents Gerry Building Vegan Fashion Week Los Angeles Fashion Week Lady Liberty Building California Market Center powered by Art Hearts Fashion The New Mart An Innovative New Collection of Knitted & Woven Los Angeles Majestic Downtown The Primrose Building Through Oct. 15 Los Angeles Fabrics and Trims. Made in USA, Europe and Asia Los Angeles Through Oct. 20 Brand Assembly Through Oct. 16 Cooper Design Space Stretch & Rigid Allovers and Los Angeles Oct. 15 Oct. 20 Through Oct. 16 Fashion Market Northern LA Men’s Market Narrow Laces, PVC Leather, California Designers and Agents California Market Center San Mateo County Event Center Spacers, Power Mesh, Microfiber The New Mart Los Angeles San Mateo, Calif. Los Angeles Through Oct. 16 Knits, Metallic Tulle and Laces, Through Oct. 22 Foil, Glitter, Flock, Embossing, Through Oct. 16 Label Array Oct. 16 Burnout Prints on Mesh, Tricot LA Kids Market Interfilière There’s more and Velvets, Novelty Elastic California Market Center Javits Center on ApparelNews.net. Los Angeles New York Trims: Metallic, Sheer Ruffles, Through Oct. 16 Through Oct. 17 For calendar details and contact Lace, Prints and Rhinestones L.A. Market Week information, visit ApparelNews. net/events. Sustainable Options California Market Center Submissions to the calendar should be emailed to the Calendar Editor at [email protected]. Please include the event’s Available name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS La Lame, Inc. ® ® ® ® GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News , Market Week Magazine , New Resources , Water wear , New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel 215 W. 40th Street 5th Floor, New York, NY 10018 News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, Tel: 212-921-9770 Fax: 212-921-8167 (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2019 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub lished weekly except semi-weekly first Please Contact [email protected] week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their www.lalame.com advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

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progressive-can.indd 1 3/28/19 2:57 PM WHAT’S CHECKING Melrose Remains a Capital for Independent Styles Los Angeles’ Melrose JapanLA in downtown Los Angeles’ Little Avenue has been a hub for Tokyo section. Since it’s a destination alternative-lifestyle clothing 7320½ Melrose Ave. shop, JapanLA could probably work for decades. Approximately JapanLA.com anywhere, Rivadeneira said, but it 40 years ago, Melrose east especially fits on Melrose. of Fairfax Avenue was the JapanLA opened on “The vibe is creative and open- go-to place for punk-rock Melrose Avenue in 2006 minded,” she said of the street. clothing and curated vintage to serve as the go-to place Items selling well at JapanLA rock ’n’ roll looks that gave for Japanese cute culture include Original Kigurumi onesies. Los Angeles a unique style. including clothing and Tokidoki Rilakkuma Designed to look like licensed characters Decades later, it’s the address collectibles inspired by Japanese characters such Rivadeneira. Cute culture has been her main style and animals, the big onesies sell particularly well for for designers who create looks as Hello Kitty by Sanrio. obsession since childhood. Burning Man season and Halloween. Retail price appropriate for adventurous JapanLA founder Jamie Rivadeneira seeks “I never grew out of it,” she said. She would points range from $60 to $80. attendees traveling to the to forge relationships with Japanese brands in take Hello Kitty pencils to work and was Los Angeles–based Tokidoki’s Crystal Burning Man festival, as well order to get exclusives for her 1,900-square- occasionally admonished by her managers, who Palace flight has been selling well at the as streetwear styles and other foot Melrose shop. Her plan has been working. thought it didn’t look professional, but she didn’t shop. It retails for $95. People like it because idiosyncratic style tribes. JapanLA often hosts parties and branded pop-up want to give up the cute culture. of the juxtaposition of dark and pastel colors, Jamie Rivadeneira, founder shops for companies producing Japanese anime, “I thought I should go full into it,” she said. “I Rivadeneira said. of the JapanLA shops, grew such as Studio Ghibli, which has produced shouldn’t try to hide it.” Also popular is Rilakkuma’s $45 Let’s Get up around Melrose and runs a animated classics, such as “My Neighbor Totoro,” Initially, she opened a small JapanLA shop Lazy gray sweatshirt. It features the Rilakkuma’s shop on the street. “You could that enjoy a fervent fan base. off of Melrose. Success came quickly, and she title character, a lazy bear. “It’s kind of like a find things you could not find Selling clothing and collectibles produced by moved into her current Melrose space in 2010. boyfriend fit,” Rivadeneira said of the loose- other places,” she said. “It’s cute-culture brands is more than a business for In 2018, she opened a second permanent location fitting top. not so punk rock anymore, but it’s still creative.” The street has strong Nathalia Gaviria Black pedestrian traffic, with a large 7563 Melrose Ave. mix of people from around the Nathaliagaviria.net Los Angeles area and tourists shopping vintage emporiums, Designer Nathalia Gaviria has designers’ ateliers and multi- put together a significant presence line boutiques. A square foot on Melrose Avenue. This year, she of commercial space costs opened the Nathalia Gaviria Gold between $4.50 and $6, said boutique at 7403 Melrose Ave. More Philip Klaparda, a partner than 95 percent of the boutique’s in Dembo Realty. He said styles are made by Gaviria. In 2013, that Melrose is enjoying low she opened Nathalia Gaviria Black. Clint Coqueta top George Styler Merlin Castell vacancy and good business. It’s a multi-line boutique for men and women, Top-selling items are one-of-a-kind bustier coat, with a cowl neck, can be worn by men and “It’s as strong as it has been and most of the styles come in black or other dark dresses by George Styler. Covered in sequins and women. since the financial crisis colors. jewels, they retail for $4,700. The shop also sells the Coqueta top, which of 2008 and even the early People shopping at the boutique are often Merlin Castell is another popular designer, retails for $139. The Nathalia Gaviria label 1990s,” Klaparda said. stylists, performers, people going to the Burning who makes a white shirt with long hems that drop introduced the Coqueta in 2015, and the lace top Man festival and those wanting to make a around the knee and have a long slit up the back. has been sold every season since then. statement. “It is outrageous, colorful, fun. You The 100 percent linen shirt retails for $565. “It’s so versatile, it will never be out of style,” are pushing people to see you and what you The Nathalia Gaviria label makes the denim Gaviria said of the Coqueta. “You can wear it as a are wearing. It is rebellious,” she said of the Clint coat, which is inspired by Clint Eastwood’s cocktail . It can be a bathing- dress. You 1,800-square-foot shop’s styles. 1970s western films. They retail for $420. The can wear it over pants or .”

Typhoon 7601 Melrose Ave. facebook.com/pages/Typhoon- Fashion/136215023095172

Since 2001, Michelle Hyon, a partner and buyer at the Typhoon boutique, has been running the 1,475-square-foot shop on Melrose and North Curson avenues. Before 2015, Typhoon focused on contemporary men’s merchandise. But competition from e-commerce shops Angelino Shrine Tripp NYC Asparagus was fierce, and Hyon decided to change the store’s merchandise focus. It would Popular items at the shop include punk-style bondage pants colorful 18th- and 19th-century military . One Shrine offer clothes that could only be found at Typhoon. A big produced by the label Tripp NYC, which retail for $109.99. coat retailed for $549. Shoppers have also been picking up market are stylists looking for unique clothes for performers “It’s the new trend for a lot of rappers and singers,” Hyon said. sequined tuxedo jackets from the Angelino label, which retail to wear on stage or people looking for flamboyant styles for Another popular look are coats and vests from the Shrine for $499.90. A sweatshirt from the Asparagus label sells well the Burning Man festival or a party. label, which seem to mix a 1967 Jimi Hendrix style with and retails for $149.

Wasteland are one of the street’s big style groups. Vintage concert tees sell well, with retail 7428 Melrose Ave. Another style tribe is represented by the price points ranging from $38 to $500. shopwasteland.com rocker kid who wears vintage concert Popular trending concert T-shirts range T-shirts and . There’s also the It from those sold at shows where 1990s Melrose is celebrated as an eclectic Girl, who favors contemporary brands hip-hop heroes such as Tupac Shakur and street, but there are currently a few such as I.Am.Gia and For Love and Biggie Smalls performed. Also popular dominant styles represented, and they Lemons. are shirts from classic rock from the often make Wasteland a regular stop, said Kelly called the 25-year-old Wasteland 1970s. When popular public figures wear Troy Kelly, the company’s general buying a place that focuses on designer retail, concert tees, there’s a spike in popularity. manager. Around 90 percent of goods where people shop for designer and other Kelly remembered Justin Bieber wearing a that it sells come from people selling their high-end brands. One of the top-selling piece from Metallica in 2018, and there was clothes to the shop. The rest come from categories at the shop is outerwear such a big demand at Wasteland for the band’s other sources such as established vintage as bomber jackets, leather jackets and shirts. sellers and celebrity stylists. other coats produced by European fashion Vintage Levi’s 501 jeans are a big deal Since Melrose neighbors Fairfax houses such as St. Laurent and Gucci. at Wasteland, especially in hard-to-find Avenue, considered a major hub of At Wasteland, these pieces can command sizes such as sizes 24–27. Retail price streetwear, kids wearing oversize hoodies prices above $1,500, he said. points range from $128 to $150.

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RETAIL E-commerce Brands Save 50%! Find Value in a Jump to Bricks-and-Mortar By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor The move into bricks-and-mortar is becoming a sign of growth for smaller e-commerce brands such as Santa Barbara, Cal if.–headquartered Catherine Gee, a womenswear brand that on July 1 launched a boutique shop located next to The Mill on the city’s burgeoning East Haley Street. According to Marshal Cohen, chief industry advisor of The NPD Group, Inc., this trend from e-commerce into bricks-and- mortar is gaining traction due to the maturation of online retail, a need for internet brands to fully infiltrate the market and the importance of experiential shopping. “Online retailers are now saying ‘We have to change the way we bring product to market,’ which opens up the opportunity to sell through traditional retail,” he explained. “In reality, touch and feel are important, particularly in fashion.” Catherine Gee’s eponymous label enjoyed an e-commerce call toll-free ➥ Retail page 9 TECHNOLOGY Fast Retailing Is Treating Denim Jeans in Southern California With Water-Saving Techniques By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Fast Retailing, the Japanese parent company of Uniqlo, recently launched its Southern California denim innovation center to announce it is very close to eliminating the use of water from its denim-treatment process. The $19 billion company showed off its Fast Retailing Jeans Innovation Center in Gardena, Calif., next door to the Japanese-owned Caitac Garment Processing location, which has been washing jeans for local denim manufactur- ers for years. It was nearly three years ago that Fast Retailing started the center in Los Angeles to reduce water usage because (866) 207-1448 L.A. is the center of the denim world. “If we had built this center in Tokyo, it would have been too influenced by vin- tage. If we had done it in Europe, it would have been too influenced by fashion. Here in L.A. it’s a mix of all cultures. Jeans originated here,” said Masaaki Matsubara, chief oper- ating officer of the Jeans Innovation Center. ➥ Uniqlo page 9

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Leisure Lab: Made in L.A. Brand to Debut at LAMM Daniel Henson wanted to make leisure After a couple of years making prototypes clothes that were not only simple and for the shorts, Henson and Chandlee found elegant but could hold up through any what they considered the best expression of      exercise regimen and any kind of weather. what they were looking for. It was a polyester He and business partner Darren Chandlee spandex short with a hem that falls above the       put together what they believed was the knee. It feels and looks like a walk short,         best example of simple, elegant and sturdy Henson said. “But I work out in it all the       clothes for hanging out. They introduced time,” he added.        the first styles of the label Leisure Lab in The shorts feature drawstrings and solid April, which has been sold at the direct-to- colors of matte black and a dark green. Other    ­€€   ‚ consumer site www.theleisurelab.com. looks include a camo-like print and another    @  They will introduce Leisure Lab to the design with wavy lines.   wholesale market Oct. 15–16 during LA “We are giving an option of extra style with               Men’s Market at the California Market our prints. The rest are minimal designs and Center showroom building in downtown colors that will work everywhere,” Henson Los Angeles. said while adding that the Leisure Lab will be the shorts and pants feature only made-in-California pockets with extra stitching. Go Beyond brand with an activewear “It provides a protective edge exhibiting at the trade wall against things falling the News and show, which focuses on out of a pocket, such as a streetwear and fashion, cell phone. It’s a barrier. Behind the said Sannia Shahid, Items hit the stitch before LAMM’s show director. they can fall out.” Scenes Eventually, the Leisure Price points range from Lab co-founders hope $45 for T-shirts and shorts The editors and to see their brand sold at to $75 for pants with prints. better department stores. Next up, the brand writers of They also hope to continue intends to design a boxer California Apparel expanding the brand’s short, which will be released reputation within the on www.theleisurelab. News are blogging at market as well as living up com by the end of the year, to the name of the brand, Henson said. ApparelNews.net Chandlee said. Chandlee now handles “We wanted to evoke comfort but also a operations for the brand after leaving a career Apparel News Group 110 E. Ninth St., Ste. #A-777 sense of lifestyle,” Chandlee said of the label, in commodities trading to develop the label. Los Angeles, CA 90079 whose sense of belies the hard work He and Henson had been friends for a few www.apparelnews.net that goes into the label’s mission. “We’re years before launching. Chandlee saw custom like a mini-lab here. We’re trying to create shorts that Henson was making for himself something unique.” and was posting on Instagram. Both co- The line’s styles include T-shirts with founders intend to continue manufacturing in Apparel News Group CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR PUBLISHED BY subtle design details such as a two-layer neck Los Angeles. LOUISE DAMBERG TLM PUBLISHING INC. hem. Designing a front-neck hem shorter Working in the same town as their DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING APPAREL NEWS GROUP than the back hem creates a unique look, manufacturer not only gives designers more TERRY MARTINEZ Publishers of: California Apparel News Henson said. control over their product, but it also affords 741945-2019 SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Waterwear AMY VALENCIA Seventy-four years of news, Decorated The inspiration for Leisure Lab came from the opportunity to develop camaraderie. fashion and information ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE LYNNE KASCH EXECUTIVE OFFICE an unlikely place. Henson’s previous gig was “We want a family to grow with. We California Market Center BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT in design, allowing him to work as wouldn’t have it if we were making $2 tees CEO/PUBLISHER MOLLY RHODES 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 TERRY MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 an assistant designer to Marco Morante, who overseas,” Chandlee said. “We’re still in an SALES & MARKETING ASSISTANT/ (213) 627-3737 RECEPTIONIST has made for celebrities such as early phase of development. We’re still very www.apparelnews.net CHLOË HULETT MANAGING EDITOR [email protected] Nicki Minaj, Katy Perry and Britney Spears. much in the lab every day. We’re still trying DOROTHY CROUCH ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS In 2017, Henson was on a job for Morante, to create something that can be improved on. RETAIL EDITOR ASHLEY KOHUT PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ANDREW ASCH CHRIS MARTIN making costumes for performances of the We’re always thinking, how can we make RACHEL MARTINEZ CONTRIBUTORS final season of the now-defunct Barnum & things better? We’re constantly looking for TIM REGAS SALES ASSISTANT NICOLE MARTINEZ PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY Bailey Circus in Bradenton, Fla. The hot and better fabric.” JOHN MCCURRY CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE sticky weather led him to recognize a need Chandlee said that he wants to maintain NATALIE ZFAT JEFFERY YOUNGER VOLKER CORRELL for something new in fashion. close relationships with customers. JOHN ECKMIER PRODUCTION MANAGER CHRIS MARTIN KENDALL IN “I was so tired of wearing woven shorts “We handwrite notes thanking them for NICK VERREOS FINANCE every day. Why don’t I come up with their orders,” he said. “We want them to WEB PRODUCTION DAVID MARTINEZ MORGAN WESSLER comfortable shorts that do not look like gym know that we appreciate it. They’re part of shorts?” Henson said. “But they’re versatile our growth. We want to be there for them.” enough to look semi-professional.” —Andrew Asch

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 11–17, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

08-new-resources.indd 8 10/10/19 6:01 PM EVENTS Fashion Scholarship Fund Produces First L.A. Events

After decades of producing talent- acquisition events and annual galas in New York City, the Fashion Scholarship Fund produced its first events in Los Angeles. While the nonprofit scholarship fund has long worked with design schools and colleges in California, last week was the first time that FSF produced a dinner for members, supporters and the Los Angeles fashion community. This was also the fund’s first talent-acquisition event, or job fair, on the West Coast, said Peter Arnold, FSF’s executive director. Since 1937, FSF has identified top fashion students and sought to introduce them to ANDREW ASCH employers at fashion companies and retailers. FASHION SCHOLARSHIP FUND Arnold explained how FSF has provided Fashion Scholarship Fund event at the Hotel From left, Peter Arnold and Sydney Silver From left, Peter Arnold, Lawren Cappelletti, Jill internships, industry networking, mentorships Indigo Higashi-Zeleznik and Kate Betts with alumni and fashion executives, and professional-development opportunities. to succeed in a changing industry. Speaking alumni were looking for internships and full- she plans to help with a move to Los Angeles “What we came to realize is that there on the panel were Arnold; Jill Higashi- time jobs. Companies with booths at the event and paying down loans. is a huge opportunity on the West Coast,” Zeleznik, the chair of the fashion department included Levi Strauss & Co., Stitch Fix, Part of the work in the scholarship Arnold said. “We have a proven track record at the Otis College of Art and Design; and Joe’s Jeans, Macy’s Inc., Boardriders Inc., included producing a 15-page case study on with the talent-acquisition event on the East Lawren Cappelletti, an FSF alum and designer the Centric Brands Group, Kohl’s, Ross the subject of the globalization of fashion, as Coast. Since 2014, we’ve held these events of the Lawren Michele label. The discussion Stores and the 24/Seven creative-recruitment well as presenting her findings to a panel of as part of our mission to help create career was moderated by Kate Betts, an author agency. executives and FSF directors, Silver said. opportunities for our scholarship recipients. and former editor with glossy magazines Jobs offered at the event included assistant “It required brand and location research, In combination with this event and our including Time and Harper’s Bazaar. Also in designer, designer, product-development an omni-channel launch plan, a merchandise placement efforts, 100 percent of our 2019 attendance were designers Heidi Merrick and associate, assistant buyer, merchandise assortment, a marketing plan, and a financial undergraduate class of scholarship recipients Emily Current, Meritt Elliott, Barbara Tfank assistant, production coordinator and account plan. It was a stressful, challenging and fun secured internships.” and April Uchitel, chief executive officer of manager. process to complete,” she said. “I am so On Oct. 3, FSF produced a dinner at Violet Gray. Attending the event was also Sydney grateful that the Fashion Scholarship Fund the exclusive private club San Vicente On Oct. 4, more than 150 students involved Silver, who recently earned a BFA in fashion offers this opportunity for students, and I am Bungalows in West Hollywood, Calif. The with FSF and FSF alumni participated in a merchandising from the Academy of Art so happy I completed it. The intense case event featured a panel discussion on the future talent-acquisition event at the Hotel Indigo University in San Francisco. Silver was the study was beyond worth it.”—Andrew Asch of the fashion workforce and the skills needed in downtown Los Angeles. Students and recipient of a $15,000 FSF scholarship, which

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Ron Robinson Continued from page 1 Robinson, his staff, as well as designers who sell wares at his shops. a milestone but a pinnacle in the retail “It’s a chance for me to say thank you to community, and this decision is made while the wonderful people who have supported we are at the top of our game,” he wrote in us throughout the years,” he said. “It’s the email. time to say thank you and farewell during a In the note, Robinson promised that wonderful time of the year.” the brand would produce events and new collaborations through the holiday season. Not slowing down He also noted that he was looking forward to spending more time with family and friends Robinson promised that he wouldn’t slow and exploring new creative ventures. down for his last few months of bricks-and- “While this decision may come as a shock mortar retail. Ron Robinson will be among to some, rest assured it was made with great Ron Robinson’s Santa Monica boutique Ron Robinson a handful of stores around the world that consideration and intention for the future. In will sell Spectacles 3 by Snap Inc. The this season of my life, the time feels right the strongest,” she said. “Ron Robinson is floors in Los Angeles fashion, said Bernard G. augmented reality–enabled eyewear from the to make changes in order to make room for one in a string of retailers that is rethinking Jacobs, a fashion stylist and image consultant. company behind Snapchat will be available fresh experiences,” the email continued. how they will survive, let alone thrive, in Jacobs said that Robinson was the first retailer after Nov. 15. “Life, as they say, is a journey—not a the new retail economy. Unfortunately, just that he was aware of who developed shops-in- Robinson also will be selling high-end destination—and I feel myself being pulled shutting down bricks-and-mortar doesn’t shops. “Now there are boutiques-in-boutiques memorabilia such as limited copies of the more and more toward the new adventures, solve the problem. E-commerce advertising wherever you go,” Jacobs said. photography book “Linda McCartney. The new ways of reconnecting with family and is saturated, and simply adding more dollars “Ron Robinson was a leader and a pioneer Polaroid Diaries,” which are signed by Paul friends, new ways of expressing my creative to that channel won’t increase the market in making a bridge between new and old McCartney. Also available will be limited vision.” share in a substantial way. We must rethink designers,” Jacobs said. “He mixed high-end copies of “Before Easter After” by rocker Robinson’s decision to close his bricks- the future of retail, and the first step is to art books with low-end jeans. It was a whole and artist Patti Smith and journalist Lynn and-mortar stores is happening during a time acknowledge that we have to flip the script shopping experience when you went to Ron Goldsmith, which are signed by Smith and of mixed fortunes for physical retail. Los on old models.” Robinson.” Goldsmith. There will also be images of Angeles–headquartered LF Stores announced Robinson’s flagship in Santa Monica, the moon, which are signed by Apollo 11 in August that it would shutter its fleet of 26 End of an era Calif., is scheduled to cease operations by the astronaut Buzz Aldrin. physical stores but continue business with its end of October. The digital channel www.ronrobinson. digital channel, www.lfstores.com. Forever The closing of bricks-and-mortar Ron The 5,600-square-foot Ron Robinson shop com will also will go through a transformation 21 forecasted that it would close around 178 Robinson shops marks the end of an era in in the former Fred Segal compound on Los after January. Currently it remains a work in stores as part of a Chapter 11 bankruptcy that Los Angeles boutique retailing. Robinson Angeles’ Melrose Avenue will remain open progress. “It will become very personal, very it declared on Sept. 29. was one of a handful of Los Angeles boutique through January. Robinson said that he did curated,” Robinson said. “It will offer an At the same time, formerly pure-play retailers who started business in the late 1970s not know what tenants would move into his opportunity to search and share things with retailers such as Everlane are expanding and early 1980s, developing boutiques with shops after January. But he intends to make people.” their bricks-and-mortar fleets. Everlane celebrity followings that became influential the last few weeks of running his physical Apothia will continue to develop new opened its third physical shop on Aug. 22 in around the globe. stores a big party. product, Robinson said, and will be delivering Los Angeles’ Abbot Kinney neighborhood. These shops continue to hold a prominent On Dec. 5, Robinson will host a farewell new candles and fragrances designed with the On Sept. 12, it also opened a shop in place in Los Angeles boutique retail and event, named the Happy Ending Party, Missoni fashion house holiday 2019. Brooklyn, N.Y. include Tommy Perse of Maxfield, Mark for vendors, customers and those on the At 1 p.m. on Oct. 16, Robinson; Stacy Syama Meagher, a retail strategist with Werts of American Rag and Robinson’s company’s email list. Robinson, his wife and vice president of Ron the consultancy Scaling Retail, said that Ron neighbor on Melrose Avenue, Ron For the holiday-shopping weekends after Robinson Inc.; and veteran buyer Karen Robinson shuttering stores could shed light Herman, who runs the self-named Ron Dec. 5, he will be hosting Happy Ending Meena will host an open talk on retail at on this moment in retail. Herman stores. Hour. From Thursdays through Saturdays The Reef, which houses the LA Mart, near “There is a change of guard in retail, Ron Robinson was a pioneer who helped during those weekends, shoppers will be downtown Los Angeles. Admission will be and bricks-and-mortar is feeling the hit to develop a unique way of organizing shop treated to drinks and conversation with free with an RSVP.

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$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 29 JULY 12–18, 2019 Denim THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS Surf RETAIL E-commerce Brands Sustainability Find Value in a Jump to Bricks-and-Mortar By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor T–Shirt Advertorial The move into bricks-and-mortar is becoming a sign of growth for smaller e-commerce brands such as Santa Barbara, Cal if.–headquartered Catherine Gee, a womenswear brand that on July 1 launched a boutique shop located next to The Mill on the city’s burgeoning East Haley Street. According to Marshal Cohen, chief industry advisor of The NPD Group, Inc., this trend from e-commerce into bricks-and- Denim Advertorial Trade Show Special Section+* mortar is gaining traction due to the maturation of online retail, a need for internet brands to fully infiltrate the market and the importance of experiential shopping. “Online retailers are now saying ‘We have to change the way we bring product to market,’ which opens up the opportunity to sell through traditional retail,” he explained. “In reality, touch and feel are important, particularly in fashion.” Sustainability Advertorial Catherine Gee’s eponymous label enjoyed an e-commerce ➥ Retail page 9 TECHNOLOGY Bonus Distribution Fast Retailing Is Treating Denim Jeans in Southern California With Water-Saving Techniques ReMode 10/29–30 By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Fast Retailing, the Japanese parent company of Uniqlo, Bonus Distribution recently launched its Southern California denim innovation center to announce it is very close to eliminating the use of water from its denim-treatment process. The $19 billion company showed off its Fast Retailing Jeans Innovation Center in Gardena, Calif., next door to Kingpins NY 11/20–21 the Japanese-owned Caitac Garment Processing location, which has been washing jeans for local denim manufactur- ers for years. It was nearly three years ago that Fast Retailing started the center in Los Angeles to reduce water usage because L.A. is the center of the denim world. “If we had built this center in Tokyo, it would have been too influenced by vin- tage. If we had done it in Europe, it would have been too influenced by fashion. Here in L.A. it’s a mix of all cultures. November 1 Jeans originated here,” said Masaaki Matsubara, chief oper- ating officer of the Jeans Innovation Center. ➥ Uniqlo page 9

INSIDE: Cover: Denim iTALIAN INFUSION Where fashion gets down to business SM Real Estate 2 4

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