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Soup Dumplings Stories

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Soup Dumplings Stories Under the skin Christopher St Cavish has created The Shanghai Soup Dumpling Index, a scientific examination of the city’s quintessential snack, xiaolongbao. His research has taken him to dozens of restaurants and seen him encounter some fascinating stories along the way – here, he shares some of the best oup dumplings are one of of a gram and Japanese digital callipers Price is also held up as a common measure Shanghai’s classic creations. sensitive enough to measure the thickness of goodness – ‘yes, they are very good, but Unlike hairy crabs, hongshao rou of a piece of paper. I won’t eat another for a they’re 10 times the price!’ For all the soup S(red-braised pork) or sheng jian bao long time. dumplings I’ve eaten, I’ve yet to find one that (pan-fried pork dumplings), the standards for tastes like money. No, the goal has been what makes a good soup dumpling are easily an objective reckoning of the engineering measured with a few simple tools. challenge that is the xiaolongbao, Zhi duo, pi bao, rou duo, rou xian (a lot of Shanghai’s home-grown soup dumpling. It is soup, a lot of meat, thin skin, savoury meat) a delicate balance. If the wrapper is too thin, – these are the standards any Shanghainese The perfect the filling will break the dumpling. If the filling will tell you make a proper soup dumpling is limited, there won’t be enough soup. (though those in Suzhou or Wuxi will certainly xiaolongbao is Even if this balance is achieved, the disagree). A sensitive scale and a set of an engineering steamer is another hurdle. Thin wrappers callipers are about all you need to measure break easily after steaming, a major foul at the first three, and that’s exactly what I’ve challenge the dumpling party. A delicate wrapper won’t been doing since December 2013. I’ve since hold indefinitely in a steamer, waiting for a visited more than 50 places serving the The goal has been to eliminate all of the customer. It will absorb water and become city’s iconic dumpling that either purport to subjective factors that go into a decision mushy, compromised. So, the perfect be experts themselves, or are represented about what is the ‘best’ soup dumpling. dumpling must not just meet the engineering that way by others. I have dissembled To some, a dirty hole-in-the-wall connotes standards but also be steamed fresh, hundreds of dumplings right from the authenticity. To others, it just means dirty. ideally to order, to arrive at the table just steamer with a pair of hair-cutting scissors, Some like strong pork flavour and others so: looking exhausted, collapsed, wrapper a scale that measures to the hundredth put the strong ones right back in the basket. folded over to one side, hot soup pressing 18 www.timeoutshanghai.com November 2014 P18-24 FEATURE xlb _Nov59.indd 18 10/24/14 3:07 PM at the insides, threatening to throw all the work into chaos. And that’s to say nothing DING XIN DI of the thickness of the top, where the folds meet, how many folds there are, the level of fattiness and clarity in the soup, if there is sugar or spring onion or ginger in the filling... The result is the Shanghai Soup Dumpling Index, a scientific survey, a printed guide and a map to 20 of the city’s best places for xiaolongbao. Notes about the methodology, ‘what happened to flavour?’ and how to get a copy are below. In the course of this incredibly serious study, the stories of several places stood out. And while I have tried as hard as I can to suppress the human element, the personality, and anything else that might compromise my rigid scrutiny, my absolute objectivity and my scientific posturing, the stories of the following five restaurants are just too human. Fortunately, they also happen to serve some of the best soup dumplings in a city famous for them. The science bit How The Shanghai Soup Take the owner of upscale Japanese day. The xiaolong for Deng were definitely restaurants and a chef who cooked for a bit different. All of the ingredients were Dumpling Index works Deng Xiaoping during his sojourns, and supplied especially for government leaders. The Shanghai Soup Dumpling Index is a you’ll get... a fast food restaurant catering The pork was only used for him. The soup in wholly scientific solution to one of the most to Zhongshan Park’s office workers. the xiaolong was different too – we’d use an pressing problems in the world. If someone That is Ding Xin Di – the Shanghainese old hen to make the stock. But you can’t do tells you a xiaolongbao at their favourite pronunciation of dianxin dian, or dim sum that in other places. Too expensive.’ place is ‘good’, what exactly does that shop – a testing bed for a planned city- mean? What are their points of reference? wide chain. Owner Yu Junyang and chef Gui ‘I didn’t choose to become a dim Where does ‘good’ fall on their rating scale? Gui Jianmin go way back, to when they sum chef. When I graduated from school, What’s ‘good’ about it? both worked at the State Guest House in The State Guest House picked me. They The Shanghai Soup Dumpling Index, Hongqiao during the 1980s. Yu was a server assigned me to the kitchen. You know how a year in the making, addresses this while Gui was a dim sum chef. After many they assign you to different jobs in the vagueness with science. Starting in years in Japan, Yu returned to his native kitchen? By height. The tall ones, they’d be December 2013, I have visited 53 Shanghai, sampled the top 20 xiaolongbao sent to work the woks. The average ones, xiaolongbao shops and a few restaurants places – as listed on Dianping.com cutting. The short ones, like me – dim known for their dumplings. In the process, – and decided he could make sum. Short people have small I have weighed a total of 7,244.76 grams them better. Enter Gui, the hands, good for doing dim of dumplings, or 1,190.13 grams of soup, standards of the State Guest sum.’ 2,456.99 grams of pork, and 2,313.34 House, his steamed-to- grams of wrapper. I have devised a simple order dumplings, and Yu ‘Our signature is formula that calculates the engineering of tales about cooking for the xiaolong. The best a soup dumpling by dividing the thickness Deng. xiaolong need to have thin of the skin by the total weight of the filling, skin, a lot of soup, and and then categorised these restaurants in Yu ‘We took the flavours be fragrant but not fatty three classes, based on their results. To my from the ’50s and ’60s in or greasy. The top is very, everlasting regret, ‘flavour’ has had to be Shanghai but added some very important. If it is too judged subjectively, given a lack of access creativity. When I was a kid, thick, that’s all you taste – to analysis by potentiometric solid-state we used to go to Nanxiang dough. The biggest difference electrodes or near-infrared spectroscopy. [in northern Shanghai] to eat is that our xiaolong are freshly The result is a 49cm x 59.4cm publication xiaolongbao. Looking back, they made. Also, we don’t use MSG in that lists the full results of the survey, and weren’t really that good – the skin was thick, our soup for the wontons – we use katsuo, indexes all 53 restaurants accordingly. The the flour was yellow-ish, not high quality, the Japanese dried fish. Our fresh pork front gives the most essential information the pork wasn’t that good either. China was mooncakes are better than Lao Da Fang – we in infographic form; the back gives detailed poor then. Now, after trying so many, we make 300 or 400 and they sell out in three measurements from all restaurants. know how they can be better. I’ve used my hours – but that’s only for this season. I’m In addition, there is a discussion about experience from Japan to really standardise going to do the classic wontons with sesame regional variations, a map with precise things – our standard is the same as The sauce soon. I’ve already got people wanting coordinates for all Class A and Class B State Guest House. For example, every us to open stores in other places, but we locations, a detailed methodology, and a dumpling skin has to be made using seven are still tinkering. Once we get everything greater volume of data. grams of dough. No more.’ exactly how we want it, we’ll start expanding The full Shanghai Soup Dumpling Index, – probably early next year.’ in both printed and electronic form, will be Gui ‘I was at The State Guest House from available via stcavish.com. 1984 to 1992 and I learned from Jiang Ding Xin Di Basement, Zhaofeng Plaza, 999 Haiqing, the head chef there. At the time, Changning Lu, near Huichuan Lu, Changning Read Time Out’s round up of Deng Xiaoping would come to Shanghai district (no tel). Open 10am-10pm daily. the best dumplings in the city at once a year, around the New Year, and Zhongshan Park. 长宁区长宁路999号 www.timeoutshanghai.com/ stay for a month or two at The State Guest 兆丰广场地下1楼吉家美食街A106室, dumplings House. We cooked dim sum for him every 近汇川路 November 2014 www.timeoutshanghai.com 19 P18-24 FEATURE xlb _Nov59.indd 19 10/24/14 3:07 PM SHANG WEI GUAN It’s not easy to turn a 6RMB basket of soup we didn’t make one cent.
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