Contents Vol1

Contents

Volume 1

Introduction 1 1 Enlarging the Patterns 5 Using Patterns from Ladies’ Garment Cutting 5 Using Patterns from Harper’s Bazar 6 Using Patterns from the Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine 6 Taking the Measures 8 Gathering Tools and Materials 13 Drafting with Apportioning Scales 14 Drafting the Plain Bodice Pattern 15 Refining the Pattern for Irregular Figures 19 Fitting the Bust and Waist 19 Altering for a Wide Back and Narrow Bust 20 Altering for a Narrow Back and Full Bust 22 Fitting a Tall, Slim Lady 24 Fitting a Short Lady 26 Altering for High Shoulders 28 Altering for Low Shoulders 30 Fitting Stooping Figures 32 Fitting Extra-Erect Figures 34 Altering for Highly Irregular Figures 36 Using a Basic Pattern to Draft Other Styles 36 Drafting a Coat 37 Drafting Collars 41 Drafting Sleeves 41 Preparing a Bodice 45 Adding Seam and Hem Allowances 45 Stretching and Easing Seams 46 Inserting the Sleeves 46 Projecting a Pattern 46 Enlarging with a Grid 47 Enlarging with a Copier 47 Finishing a Pattern 47

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2 Corsets, Hoopskirts, and Bustles 50 Corset for Young Ladies 51 Corselet or Corset 52 Spoon Busk Corset 53 Corset without Gussets 54 Corset for Stout Ladies 55 Japanese Corset 56 Negligee Corset 58 Muslin Hoopskirt 62 Pannier Bustle with Petticoat 65 Dimity Bustle 68

3 Underclothing and Negligee Wear 71 Drawers with Two Trimmings 73 Chemise with Round Neck 75 Chemise with Narrow Shoulders and Small Sleeves 77 Gored Chemise with Simple Sleeves 78 Gored Chemise with Moderately Low Neck 79 Chemise with Neckband 80 Chemise with Narrow Neckband 81 Chemise with Round Yoke 82 Tucked Chemise with V-Shaped Yoke 83 Chemise with Crossed Neckband 84 Chemise with Heart-Shaped Neck and Pleats 86 Chemise with Narrow Shoulders 88 Tucked Chemise with Heart-Shaped Yoke 89 Chemise with Square Neck 90 Chemise with Tucked Pieces 92 Chemise with Short Sleeves 93 Chemise with Square Yoke 94 Chemise Buttoned on the Shoulders 95 Princess Chemise 96 Cutting and Making a Chemise 98 Taking Measurements 98 Preparing the Body 98 Preparing the Gores 98 Preparing the Chemise without Gores 99 Finishing the Neck 99 Making the Sleeves 101 Adding the Trimmings 102 Underbodice with Round Neck 103 Underbodice with Heart-Shaped Neck 104 Nainsook and Lace Vest 105 viii Contents

Batiste, Tulle, and Lace Vest 106 Short Underskirt in Two Styles 107 Muslin Petticoat 109 Long Underskirt in Two Styles 111 Underskirt with Buttoned-On Train 114 Removable Petticoat Train 117 Peignoir 118 Half-Fitting Dressing Gown 120 Dressing Gown with Watteau Pleat 122 Sacque for Morning Gown 124 Loose Watteau Wrapper 127 Grosgrain and Pointillé Cloth Wrapper 130 Single-Breasted Morning Dress 133 Double-Breasted, Long Morning Dress 135 Nightdress with Back Yoke 137 Nightdress with Bands of Trimming 139 Night Jacket 141

4 Day and Evening Skirts 142 Drafting Skirts 144 Moderately Full Skirt without Train 147 Moderately Full Skirt with Train 150 Underskirt for Evening Toilette 152 Fan Skirt 155

5 Day Bodices 158 Plain Bodice for Medium-Sized Ladies 161 Plain Bodice for Well-Developed Ladies 163 Plain Bodice for Stout Ladies 165 Plain Bodice for Very Stout Ladies 167 Bodice with Two Side Pieces 169 Bodice with Yoke 170 Bodice with Narrow Shoulders and Back 171 Basque Bodice for Medium-Sized Ladies 173 Basque Bodice for Very Stout Ladies 175 Long, Single-Breasted Jacket Bodice 177 Cashmere Peasant Bodice 179 Jacket with Shawl Collar 181 High-Necked Jacket Bodice 183 Single-Breasted, Close-Fitting Jacket 185 Basque Bodice with Revers 187 Cuirass Bodice 189 Jacket with Shawl Collar 191

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Bodice for Striped Percale Suit 193 Basque Bodice with Lace Trimming 196 Basque Bodice with Imitation Vest 198 Close-Fitting, Four-Piece Jacket 200 Redingote for Sateen Dress 202 Velvet and Satin de Lyon Basque 205 Coat with Contrasting Material 208 High-Necked Jacket Bodice 210 Single-Breasted Jacket Bodice 212 Basque Bodice with Tails 214 Double-Breasted Basque Bodice 215 Double-Breasted Basque Bodice 217 Basque Bodice with Tails 218 Basque for Brocade and Velvet Visiting Dress 220 Satin Merveilleux Blouse with Velvet Bodice 223 Single-Breasted Jacket with Attached Skirt 227 Double-Breasted Jacket with Attached Skirt 229 Braided Cloth Jacket 231 Close-Fitting Jacket 236 Close-Fitting Jacket 237 Half-Fitting, Single-Breasted Jacket 238 Half-Fitting, Single-Breasted Jacket 240 Double-Breasted, Half-Fitting Jacket or Coat 242 Half-Fitting Jacket with Pocket Flaps 244

6 Evening Bodices 246 Low-Cut Basque for Ball and Evening 247 Low-Cut Round Bodice for Ball and Evening 249 Pointed Basque for Ball Toilette 251 Bodice with Square Neck 252 Basque for Blue Crepe Lisse Dress 253 Basque for Green Chambery Gauze Dress 256 Basque Bodice with Square Neck 257 Velvet Basque 259 Basque Bodice with Round Neck 263 Brocade Basque 265 Coattail Basque 268 Various Neck Openings 272

7 Overskirts 277 Overskirt for Traveling Costume 279 Overskirt for Traveling Suit 281 Overskirt for Beige Dress 283 x Contents

Tunic for Evening Dress 286 Overskirt for Habit Suit 288 Overskirt for Grosgrain Dress 291 Overskirt for Cashmere Dress 293 Overskirt for Percale Dress 295 Overskirt for Directoire Basque and Round Skirt 299 Overskirt for Summer Dress 302 Overskirt for Pompadour Foulard Dress 305 Overskirt for Beige and Satin Dress 308

8 Polonaises 310 Overdress for Mousseline des Indes Dress 311 Close-Fitting Polonaise 314 Polonaise for Batiste Dress 316 Polonaise with Two Side Pieces 321 Polonaise for Grenadine Dress 323 Polonaise for Grosgrain and Damask Dress 326 Overdress for Reception Dress 329 Polonaise for Wool and Surah Satin Dress 333 Polonaise for Country Suit 336 Overdress for Cashmere and Satin Dress 341

9 Day Dresses 345 Morning Dress for the Street 345 Dress for the Promenade 345 Carriage Dress 346 Visiting and Receiving Calls 346 Dress for Church 346 Dress for Breakfast and Luncheon Parties 346 Costume for Picnics 346 Country and Seaside Resorts 346 Traveling Dress 347 Grosgrain Reception Dress 348 Faille and Brocaded Wool Dress 354 Plain and Plaid Percale Dress 359 Scotch Plaid Dress 364 Grosgrain and Satin Dress 369 Cheviot Cloth Dress 376 Velvet and Cashmere Dress 382 Faille and Foulard Dress 386 Dress with Pointed Basque 391 Sateen Dress 394

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Watteau Basque Dress 399 Embroidered Cloth Dress 405 Embroidered Camel’s Hair Dress 408 French Bunting Dress 415 Ottoman Silk and Figured Plush Dress 420 Princess Dress, Waterproof, or Coat 426 Bunting Grenadine and Quadrillé Gauze Dress 429

Appendix A: Apportioning Scales 434 Appendix B: Metric Conversion Table 445 Appendix C: Glossary 447 Appendix D: References 457 Index I: Patterns by Enlargement Method and Needlework Technique 459 Index II: Text Other Than Patterns 464

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