Salamanca V alladolid Palencia Zamora Leon Av

ila Castilla y Leon CONTENTS

Introduction 1 A walk through the capital cities Avila 8 Burgos 11 Leon 14 Palencia 17 Salamanca 20 Dublín United Kingdom Segovia 23 Soria 26 Ireland London 29 Zamora 32 Enjoying Castilla y Leon 35 Avila. The circus of Gredos 36 París Burgos. Heart of Castille 38 Leon. The Road to Santiago 40 Palencia. The romanesque 42 Salamanca. The mountains 44 Segovia. The Royal Houses 46 Cantabrian Sea Soria. The lands of el Cid 48 Valladolid. Vineyards and monasteries 50 Castilla y León Zamora. Lakes of Sanabria 52 Leisure and entertainment 54 Useful information 60 Spain Mediterranean Sea

Melilla Ceuta

Text: Printed by: Javier Tomé GAEZ, S.A. Translation: D.L. M-24401-2000 Alistair Louis Ross Maqueta: NIPO: 104-99-042-7 OPCIÓN K, Comunicación Visual, S.L. Printed in Spain Photographs: Archivo Turespaña 1st edition Published by © Turespaña Secretaría de Estado de Comercio y Turismo Ministerio de Economía Introduction the largest region in the European Union.

TERRITORY The basic axis of the territory is the basin of the river Duero, If there is one word that sums the largest in Spain. The major up the complex reality of the communication routes region of Castilla y Leon, that between the capital Madrid and word is “monumental”. the Atlantic regions all run Everything about the geography through here. Castilla y Leon, and the culture of this Region, then, is situated in the northern strategically situated in the part of the central Spanish north-east , is plateau. Its borders are on a grand scale. The demarcated by natural tremendous variety of detail boundaries – the there is the product of sheer Cantabrica to the north, the physical size – Castilla y Leon Sistema Iberico to the east, the covers one-fifth of Spanish Sistema Central to the south and territory. With a total area of the mountains of /Leon to 94,147 square kilometres, it is the west.

Villafranca del Bierzo. Leon

1 The river Duero, the country’s Gredos contains extensive largest electric power source, stands of the famous and descends in torrents from the highly-prized Scots . heart of the Sistema Iberico at an altitude of over 2000 metres. Given the size of the region, The central axis for the whole Castilla y Leon naturally offers area, the river’s natural impetus an enormous variety of wildlife. is attenuated when it reaches The wildest area is home to the plains. Criss-crossed by a endangered species like the network of tributaries to the wolf or the brown bear, which main Duero stream, these are now the subject of consist of three broad protective regulations intended topographical types – high to preserve mammal species barren plains, flatlands and historically pursued by man. fertile river plains. The emblematic mountain goat inhabits the mountains of Because of the differences in Gredos, while the Cordillera physical and orographic Cantabrica harbours deer, wild conditions, there is a boar and urogallo, a large tremendous variety of plant life. wildfowl akin to the The most widespread tree is the capercaillie. Avian species holm , a hardy species able include the imperial eagle, the to withstand both heat and tawny vultures of Río Lobos cold. Holm can be found in Canyon and storks that winter every province of the region, in Villafáfila. both on open moorland and in woods. Chestnuts also abound What actually makes for such on cool, nutrient-rich lands, varied and attractive scenery is particularly in areas of north- the majestic heterogeneity of west Leon. And finally, the the mountain ranges that form forest cover of the Sierra de the Region’s natural

River Carrion, Palencia Berlanga de Duero. Soria . Ávila boundaries. The permanent HISTORY snowy caps of the highest peaks provide a background of In the dawn of prehistory, a eternal beauty, while the nucleus of tribes established the middle zones are populated by first settlements in this ancient rich woodlands following the region, around the Duero and life-giving rivers. its tributaries. With the triumph of imperial armed might, the The region owes much of its pax romana brought civilisation wealth of colour to the typically and progress, with the of Castilla y appearance of roads and Leon: long, hard winters bridges, baths and sewers, contrasting with moderately aqueducts and new townships. warm summers. The deep The arrival of the Christian valleys pass from leafy green to Visigoths brought a new gold with the change of element to the scenery as they seasons, perpetually shielded by built the first churches ever to hills on whose crests old appear on the vast Castilian watch over the passage of man horizons. and time. Successive waves of Arab invasion left the banks of the Duero impoverished and depopulated. But the valley survived, and from the ninth century on, new cities like Zamora and Burgos began to appear. In the next century, the imperious will of Count Fernán González inspired a new collective enterprise which would eventually come to be known as Castile. This was the

3 But all the progress and well- being achieved in preceding centuries were gradually lost as the foundations of the empire “on which the sun never set“ began to crumble. This marked the onset of a process of Casa de las Conchas. Salamanca emigration in search of new opportunities which was sustained practically until the age of the Reconquest, which present day. acquired renewed vigour with the final union of the kingdoms With the return of democratic of Castile and Leon in 1230. In coexistence in this century, the this way, the most powerful of year 1983 saw the promulgation the Peninsula’s kingdoms of a Statute of Autonomy gradually forged its own culture whereby Castilla y Leon was and peculiar identity. recognised as a territorial entity, the largest in Europe as we have said, with a population of Leon was the scene of the first 2,484,603 according to the last popular and democratic Cortes census. to be assembled in the West. Valladolid witnessed the The Region comprises nine marriage of the Catholic provinces: Avila, Burgos, Leon, Palencia, Salamanca, Segovia, Monarchs Isabella and Soria, Valladolid and Zamora – Ferdinand, architects of Spain’s all capitals and towns with their accession to nationhood. This own peculiarities but bound was a time of limitless wealth, together by a common past carried from the New World by replete with history and the carvels that flew the tradition. Art, culture and Spanish flag on every corner of tourist attraction are the three the known seas. facets that define the

4 SPIRIT OF THE REGION

If the Region is outsized geographically, it is no less so in terms of its historic and cultural monuments. Littered with Roman remains, which continue to come to light today, Castilla y Leon is and was an outstanding part of that highway of Christian devotion which follows the Arms of the Autonomous Region Milky Way to the sepulchre of of Castilla y Leon the Apostle St. James in Compostela – or, as the ancients had it, to finis terrae, the place fascinating personality of where known land came Castilla y Leon – a land of to an end. legend which has once again assumed responsibility for its Mediaeval Spain, ever attentive own destiny. to the welfare of pilgrims, undertook tremendous works of engineering, repairing roads and building bridges, hospitals and inns, all of which provided enormous impetus for trade and racial intercourse. And of course

Castle of Peñafiel, Valladolid it raised marvellous churches visitor is regaled with a set of which still stand as living proof stained-glass windows that of the timelessness of the produce a magical sensation of religious experience. standing in the very heart of the light. And then the cathedral of Along the road to St. James Burgos, a work of filigreed there sprang up veritable masonry, boasts an ornamental miracles of Romanesque art, like wealth reminiscent of the church of San Martin de Renaissance aesthetics. Frómista, that of San Isidoro in Leon and the curious cloister of The next stylistic advance Santo Domingo de Silos. Or produced creations based on an again there is the string of evolved form of Gothic. country churches spanning the Examples of the Isabelline style north of the province of are the San Gregorio school in Palencia, which make this an Valladolid or the Carthusian area of first-class artistic and Monastery of Miraflores in tourist interest. Burgos, whose beauty stretches the limits of human imagination. The apogee of Gothic belongs to These places preserve a strong the age of imperial expansion tradition of Castilian when Castilla y Leon was architecture with Arabic synonymous with Spain and vice traces – the monastery versa. The finest examples of this of Santa Clara in , the school can be seen in the Casa de las Conchas in cathedrals of Leon and Burgos. Salamanca, and countless In the sober Leonese temple, a fortresses the pride structure of unobtrusive angles of which is the ever-vibrant and cleanly-defined corners, the Alcázar of Segovia.

Turégano. Segovia Collegiate Church of Santa Maria. Aranda de Duero, Burgos Santa María la Mayor. Zamora

The influence of the Italian culture. The regional spirit is Renaissance came to us in the embodied by an impressive form of Plateresque, a tendency artistic and cultural legacy to that is particularly marked in the which new names and new Salamanca University building works are constantly being and the convent of San Marcos added. The aesthetic influence in Leon. These reflect a time in of the landscape is a vital factor which the finest literature of the in the literature of Miguel Golden Age was intimately Delibes and the group known as linked to such places, the best the “School of Leon". Here the example being the picaresque researcher and scholar of novel El Lazarillo de Tormes. folklore Joaquín Díaz still carries on his struggle to preserve After the Court moved to popular ethnic traditions. And in Madrid in 1561, the former the plastic arts the most predominance of Castilla y Leon representative painter is surely faded. Nonetheless, there were the muralist Jose Vela Zanetti, brilliant flashes of inspiration one of whose best works hangs which left Baroque marvels such in the UN headquarters as the Plaza Mayor of Salamanca in New York. or the empathic sculptural school whose greatest exponent Castilla y Leon is, then, a gigantic was Gregorio Fernandez. And it museum, a masterpiece forged is thanks to the will of the from natural variety and Bourbons that we have the centuries of glorious history. palace of La Granja, the last provincial construction of first- rate artistic importance.

For all these reasons it is no exaggeration to describe this Region as a compendium of two thousand years of Christian

7 A walk 2500 merlons. The best-known tower is the “cimorro", which through the houses the gigantic apse of the capital cities cathedral of Avila. Tourists can climb to the top of the walls by Avila way of the Alcazar gate (3) situated in Plaza de Santa Defined in proverb as “the land Teresa. of song and saint", Avila (pop. 47,650), standing 1,131 metres Nearby soars the superb above sea level, is the highest of Cathedral (4), which bears a the provincial capitals. Its surprising resemblance to a carefully-preserved town centre military fortress. The front and its numerous attractive consists of a crenellated tower monuments are two of the almost 43 metres high with reasons why this small, peaceful superimposed Gothic and city was declared part of the Baroque elements. In the Heritage of Mankind in 1985. interior, the harmonious dual space of the apse aisle, finished But before immersing themselves in white and ruddy stone, is in the maze of mediaeval streets, particularly striking. There, visitors should take the behind the main altar, it is worth opportunity to enjoy the best stopping before the carven views of Avila from a truly alabaster tomb of El Tostado, a splendid vantage masterpiece by Vasco de la Zarza. point. Known as Los Cuatro One of the centrepieces of the Postes (1), this is situated a bare Cathedral Museum is a silver two kilometres from the city, just processional monstrance by Juan off the Salamanca road. The de Arfe (open daily). most characteristic sight in Avila is its famous mediaeval Outside the walls is the Basilica walls (2), the best preserved in de San Vicente (5), which is Europe. Begun around the year 1090, this solid “case“ of stone measures 2.5 kilometres in length and has 6 gates, 3 posterns, 88 towers and battlements with some

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Río 2 N Molino de la Losa 0 100 200 300 m Adaja Puente Romano AÑO 1999 1

1 Los Cuatro Postes 7 Museum of Oriental Art 2 Mediaeval walls 8 Convent of Santa Teresa 3 Alcazar gate 9 Convent of Nuestra Señora 4 Cathedral de Gracia 5 Basilica de San Vicente 10 Convent of San José 6 Royal Monastery of Santo Tomas 11 Convent of La Encarnación

Tourist information

9 Walls Plaza de Santa Teresa reached by the gate of the same The Convent of Santa Teresa (8) name. This is the most important was built in 1636 on the site of Romanesque building in Avila the house where the saint was and is easily recognisable by its born. As well as a church which bell-tower. The church, which blends elements of Baroque and was begun in the 12th century, Neo-classical, there is a kitchen contains the splendid cenotaph garden and a museum of Saint Vincent and his sisters, containing mementos of Santa decorated with scenes from the Teresa (open daily). Teresa de lives of these martyrs. Cepeda has left an indelible mark on an ecclesiastical and Also outside the walls is the cultural itinerary which takes in Royal Monastery of Santo various churches: Convent of Tomás (6). An excellent example Nuestra Señora de Gracia (9), of Isabelline Gothic, the Convent of San José (10), monastery was built in the 15th Convent of La Encarnación (11) century under the auspices of the and others. Catholic Monarchs. In addition to its three richly decorated cloisters there is the tomb of the prince Don Juan, only son of the most important monarchs in the history of Spain, finely executed Royal Monastery of Santa Teresa in Carrara marble. In the grounds of Queen Isabella’s summer palace is the curious Museum of Oriental Art (7) (open daily).

The city of Avila is intimately linked with Santa Teresa de Jesus, one of the great doctors of the Catholic church.

10 the first stone was laid by Burgos Fernando III in 1221. Its many marvels include the Sarmental The city of Burgos (pop. 161,984), door, the magnificent Constable’s one of the key links in the chapel with the tomb of this cultural chain running the length Castilian magnate, the Golden of the Road to Santiago, looks staircase by Diego Siloe, and the back on a long history. First renowned Cathedral Museum emerging as an urban enclave in (open daily). the mid-9th century, it was the capital of Castile during the Behind the cathedral is the , only relinquishing Church of San Nicolás (3), with this position in favour of a grand altarpiece in polychrome Valladolid after the fall of alabaster. And in the barrio del Granada. Enriched by lordly Castillo, at the foot of the buildings, Burgos is ideal for ancient fortress, is the Church of exploring forgotten corners and San Esteban (4). Begun in 1280, basking in the purity of the light. this now houses a splendid Museum of Altarpieces (June Entry to the old town is by way to October: closed Sunday p.m. of the Arch of Santa María (1), and Mondays; November to a gateway opened in the walls May: open Saturdays and during the 14th century and Sunday p.m.). adorned with statues of local personalities. Opposite rises the The way to the river passes by Cathedral (2), which Theophile the Casa del Cordón (5), the Gautier described as “delicate as city’s most outstanding civil a feminine jewel". This the city’s edifice. It was here that the most important monument and is Catholic Monarchs received the third largest cathedral in Columbus in 1497 on his return Spain. Built in the Gothic style, from the second voyage to

General view

12 America. Across the bridge of San Pablo (6), on the other bank of the river Arlanzon stand the Casa de Miranda and the Casa de Angulo. Both buildings together constitute the Museum of Burgos (7), which has important sections on archaeology and fine art (closed Saturday p.m., Sunday p.m. and Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores holidays).

On the outskirts of Burgos are two religious buildings well worth the visit. To the west stands the Royal Monastery of Las Huelgas Reales (8), erected by Alfonso VIII in 1187 on an area of pleasure grounds. Intended as a great funereal Casa del Cordón pantheon, it boasts a Gothic cloister decorated with Mudejar motifs, and the chapel of Santiago, which preserves a wooden image of St. James the Apostle with an articulated arm that was used to dub knights. Among other unique pieces of the period the Museum of Fine Fabrics contains the historic standard wrested from the Arabs at the battle of Las Navas de Cathedral Museum Tolosa (closed Sunday p.m., holidays p.m. and Mondays). spectacular polychrome altarpiece by Gil de Siloe. Legend East of the city lies the has it that it was gilt with the Carthusian Monastery of first gold to be brought back Miraflores (9), built between from the Americas. 1454 and 1488. The church preserves the tomb of the Infante Don Alfonso, brother of Isabel la Catolica, and also a

13 Viejo or Old Town Hall (2), a Leon palatial building with a long facade which for centuries has The emblematic city of Leon been the “eye of the city". The (pop. 139,809), an accumulation surrounding area, with its of two thousand years of history epicentre in the Plaza de San and stone, began life as a Roman Martín (3), is packed with lordly camp built by the 7th Legion mansions and churches housing between the rivers Torio and venerated images. Bernesga. Capital of the Only a short walk away is the Kingdom during the Middle city’s crown jewel, the Ages, Leon is an ideal place to Cathedral (4), known as the slowly absorb the scenarios “pulchra leonina“ and one of the handed down by history. loveliest examples of Spanish A town which blends Gothic. Construction of the modernity with age-old existing cathedral began around tradition, its true heart is the year 1255 on top of an the Plaza Mayor (1). ancient Romanesque church Historically a stage for on a site once occupied by all kinds of civic Roman baths. Its great fame activities, the square derives from almost 1800 is dominated by square metres of artistic the Consistorio window-work, defined by Miguel de Unamuno as “a miracle of light and stone". The Cathedral Museum is one of the

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1 Plaza Mayor 2 Old Town Hall 3 Plaza de San Martin 4 Cathedral 5 Casa de Botines 6 Palace of the Guzmanes 7 Basilica de San Isidoro 8 Hostal San Marcos.

Tourist information

15 Basílica de San Isidoro most comprehensive of its kind, with exhibits spanning the ages from prehistory to Neo-classicism (September to June: closed Saturday p.m. and Sundays. July and August: closed Sundays and holidays). Plaza Mayor A walk down the Calle Ancha leads to the Casa de On the far side of the city rises Botines (5), a Modernist work by the Hostal de San Marcos (8). the brilliant Antonio Gaudi. A former convent and refuge for Opposite stands the Palace of pilgrims, it was built between the the Guzmanes (6), headquarters 16th and 17th centuries in the of the Provincial Deputation, Plateresque style. Now a which displays a superb main luxurious Parador, it was once a facade and a Plateresque bitter prison, where the poet courtyard. Only a little further on Francisco Quevedo was is the Basilica de San Isidoro incarcerated. In the church (7), which backs on to part of the cloister is the Museum of Leon, mediaeval city walls. The vaults of which exhibits such treasures as the royal pantheon, resting- the Cristo de Carrizo, a little place of 23 Leonese monarchs, 11th-century marble crucifix are adorned with exceptional (closed Sunday p.m. and 12th-century mural paintings, Mondays). which have earned it the sobriquet of the Romanesque Sixtine Chepel. The Museum of San Isidoro contains an exquisite collection of codices (closed Sunday p.m., Mondays and the first fortnight in February).

16 Palencia square dominated by a monument to the local sculptor Alonso Berruguete. This central The old provincial capital of location is also shared by the Palencia (pop. 79,745) sits in the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) (3) centre of the vast plains known and on a corner, the Church of as . Embraced San Francisco (4), a venerable by the river Carrion and basking 13th-century Franciscan convent. in the protection of the monumental Cristo del Close by is the eye-catching Otero (1), whose slender form is Cathedral (5), nicknamed “la a veritable symbol of modernity, bella desconocida“ or “the Palencia is a town with a unknown beauty". Built upon an significant historical background elder 12th-century Romanesque and considerable specific weight edifice, the existing Gothic in the mosaic of Castilla y Leon. building was modelled on the neighbouring cathedral of The social evolution of Palencia Burgos. The exterior is severe, in recent years is clearly reflected lightened only by the stepped in the Calle Mayor. This is the formation at the top, which is real backbone of the city, adorned with gargoyles and running from North to South and pinnacles. One of the doorways, a reference point for the most the Bishop’s Door, is very fine, important aspects of civic life. decorated with sculptures of the About half-way down, marked Virgin and other saints and out by airy columns and prophets. The 16th-century emblazoned buildings, is the altarpiece, a Plateresque work of Plaza Mayor (2), a porticoed great historical value, bears

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1 Cristo del Otero 2 Plaza Mayor 3 Town Hall 4 Church of San Francisco 5 Cathedral 6 Diocesan Museum 7 Church of San Miguel

Tourist information

18 Plaza Mayor and Town may carvings by Juan de Flandes and the Church of San Miguel (7), a Calvary by Juan de Valmaseda. Romanesque in origin and ogival Inside the cloister is the in style. Tradition has it that this Cathedral Museum, with is where El Cid married Doña works by El Greco and Zurbaran Jimena. (closed Sunday p.m.). Its crenellated tower is one of Very near the Cathedral, in the the symbols of the city, as is the grounds of the Episcopal palace, majestic Cristo del Otero, stands the Diocesan Museum (6), perched on a hill-top to the which contains exhibits from the north of Palencia. Wrought by churches of the diocese (closed Victorio Macho in 1930 and 20 Sundays and daily p.m.). While metres high, the sculpture has still in the area centred on the the air of welcoming the visitor old Market district one can visit with friendly countenance and open arms. In that sense it well reflects the spirit of this amiable Church of San Pablo provincial capital.

19 best represents Salamancan civil Salamanca architecture. This odd name (which means the House of Shells) comes from the pilgrims’ Salamanca (pop. 158,457) has symbol, the scallop, adorning the been very aptly described as “the walls. Opposite stands the wise city". And indeed, this Clerecía (4), now the venerable town on the river headquarters of the Pontifical Tormes has been decisive in the University. This is considered one growth of the soul of the of the masterpieces of Baroque Spanish nation. The UNESCO and took over one hundred years declared it part of the Heritage to build. of Mankind in recognition of its artistic legacy. It has now – most Calle Libreros leads to the deservedly – been designated University (5), the source of “European City of 2002". Salamanca’s universal fame. Founded as such by Alfonso X The best place to start a walk the Wise in 1254, its facade, the round Salamanca is the porticoed best existing example of local Plaza Mayor (1), the most Plateresque art, bears a well- important in Spain in terms of known medallion with the image size and construction. Built of the Catholic Monarchs in between 1729 and 1755 to a relief. The courtyard is design by the Churriguera dominated by a statue of Fray brothers, the east side is Luis de Leon, another of the occupied by the Royal pavilion, many luminaries who have adorned with a bust of Philip V. passed through this institution. At sunset, the tones of the In the Minor Colleges is the golden stone of buildings like Museum of Salamanca (6), the Ayuntamiento which contains an important art (Town Hall) (2) are quite gallery (closed Sunday p.m. and unforgettable. Mondays).

Following the Rua Mayor one Among other things, Salamanca comes to the Casa de las can boast two cathedrals. The Conchas (3), the monument that New Cathedral (7) was begun

View of the city

Plaza Mayor by Juan Gil de Hontañon to evincing Byzantine influence. remedy the shortcomings of the The Cathedral Museum old one, and the work was exhibits major paintings by completed in 1733. The Francisco Gallego and Juan de predominant note in the Flandes (closed Sunday p.m.). building is late Gothic, although there are also numerous Opposite the cathedral is the Renaissance elements, Museum of Art Nouveau and particularly in the decoration of Art Deco, housed in the Casa the walls. The tower was built in Lis (9), a pretty Modernist 1705 by the Churriguera brothers building built in 1905. It contains but had to be remodelled to furnishings, porcelains and a make good the damage caused fascinating collection of toys by the Lisbon earthquake (closed Mondays). of 1755. Around the Plaza del Concilio de The two cathedrals are Trento are two convents well connected, and therefore one worth a visit. The Church of San can pass straight through to the Esteban (10) has an unusual Old Cathedral (8). The most facade protected by a triumphal striking element on the exterior arch wrought in the manner of a is the Torre del Gallo (Cock gigantic altarpiece (open Fridays, Tower), an exquisite dome Saturdays and Sundays). The Convent of Las Dueñas (11) University boasts a beautiful combination of Gothic, Mudejar and Plateresque elements.

22 Picos (3), a mansion whose Segovia facade is decorated (and hence the name, which means “House of Diamonds") with diamond- Segovia (pop. 54,012) has been point motifs. Plaza de Medina compared in poetic imagery with del Campo, a corner a ship of stone anchored in the breathing beauty and sea of cornfields that is Castile. harmony, has two notable Declared part of the Heritage of monuments: the Torreon Mankind in 1985, the gateway de los (4), a and the symbol of the city is the magnificently striking building, Aqueduct (1), one of the best- and the Church of San preserved monuments of Martin (5), highlighted by the Imperial Rome. Mozarabic elements of its arches and capitals. A few steps farther The aqueduct was built at the on is the Plaza Mayor (6), end of the 1st century to carry the heart of the old walled water to the upper part of the town. city. This “skein of stone", measuring 728 metres in length To the left towers the superb with 163 arches, is built of stone Cathedral (7). This was built in from Guadarrama, without lead the 16th century after its or mortar. Visitors walking by the predecessor was destroyed by Aqueduct will be struck by its fire. Popularly known as “the three outstanding qualities – mistress of all cathedrals", this simplicity, elegance and was the last Gothic edifice to be grandeur. built in Spain. The San Frutos door opens into an arrangement The best place to start a visit is of three naves, a transept and an the Plaza del Azoguejo (2). aisled apse. In addition to various Close by is the Casa de los chapels, there is an interesting

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Tourist information

24 Plaza Mayor

altarpiece of La Piedad by Juan repopulation of Segovia, the de Juni dated 1571. The building was reconstructed in Cathedral Museum exhibits 1862 after a devastating fire. fine pieces of gold work and a One of its rooms houses the collection of Brussels tapestries Museum of Arms, with (open daily). numerous exhibits recalling the military past of the fortress (open The rocks that mark the western daily). end of the city are topped by the watchful silhouette of the Alcázar (8). Although originally dating back to the time of the

Plaza de Church of San Martin

25 Palace of the Counts of Soria Gómara (3), the finest example of Soria’s civil architecture. ADespite its small size and air of tranquillity, Soria (pop. 33,882) A series of winding mediaeval- offers a whole series of surprises. looking streets leads into the Set on the banks of the river Calle Caballeros. There, facing Duero, its charm lies in an the statues that adorn the agreeable blend of culture and facade of the Provincial nature. Deputation (4), is the Church of San Juan de Rabanera (5), The best place to start a tour of an edifice that embodies the this placid town is the basic precepts of the best Concathedral of San Pedro (1), – which stands near the external grandeur and internal omnipresent Duero. Built in the austerity. late 12th century, only part of the splendid cloister remains of Carrying on westwards one the original structure. The comes to the Alameda de cathedral has iconographic Cervantes (6), an ideal area for capitals and valuable altarpieces, strollers and site of the especially a Flemish triptych of Hermitage of La Soledad (7). the Crucifixion. One of its chapels preserves the Cristo del Humilladero, a In the oldest part of the town is splendid carving attributed to the Church of Santo Juan de Juni. And nearby is the Domingo (2), hailed by critics as Museo Numantino (8), which the most harmonious of all 12th- exhibits archaeological finds century churches. In the street of from Tiermes and Numancia the same name stands the (closed Mondays).

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Tourist information

27 Church of San Juan de Rabanera

The walk finishes in the other the living rock, this little Baroque part of Soria after crossing the church is a marvellous display of Duero by a bridge of mediaeval romanticism and originality. origin. There stand the remains of the Monastery of San Juan de Duero (9), founded by the monks of St. John of Acre. Masterpieces of decorative art, the intertwining arches of the cloister exhibit the best of Moslem influence on Romanesque art. Following the river bank, the path ends at the Hermitage of San Saturio (10), Soria’s patron saint. Excavated in

Monastery of San Juan de Duero Church of Santo Domingo

28 facade. Next to it is the Palace Valladolid of the Pimentel (3), now home to the Provincial Deputation. The burgeoning city of Valladolid Also in this area, Zorilla’s (pop. 319,946) preserves some of House/Museum (4) preserves the best examples of Renaissance the memory of this romantic art. The Belad Valed mentioned writer and scion of Valladolid in documents of the Reconquest, (closed Mondays and holidays). Valladolid boasts a major monumental legacy scattered On the way to the heart of the among the arteries of city is the Palace of Fabio what is now the capital of the Nelli (5), a building of Classical Region. lines which houses the Museum of Valladolid and its collections A good place to start a tour is of tools, coins, paintings and the exceptional National ceramics (closed holidays, Museum of Sculpture (1), Mondays, Saturday p.m. and which is housed in the College Sunday p.m.). And in the street of San Gregorio, an of the same name is the outstanding example of Flemish Monastery of San Benito el Gothic. On exhibit there are Real (6), built on the site where polychrome wood carvings from the fortress of King Juan I once the hands of such legendary stood, Its church has an austere figures of the region as Alonso doorway completed by Gil de Berruguete or Gregorio Hontañon in 1569. Fernandez (closed Mondays and Sunday p.m.). After visiting the rectangular Plaza Mayor (7), the route leads Close by stands the Convent of on to the Cathedral (8). San Pablo (2) with its lovely Commenced by Juan de Herrera

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Tourist information

30 in 1582 on the remains of a Back near the cathedral, the collegiate church, in the event Church of Santa María la the work was never completed. Antigua (11) boasts an The Romanesque tower and a unexpected Romanesque tower splendid Mannerist altarpiece by which quite dominates its Juan de Juni still survive. The surroundings. Very near Diocesan Museum exhibits there is the Church of Las various religious objects, one of Angustias (12), which contains a the finest being a processional carving of La Virgen de los monstrance wrought by Juan de Cuchillos by master Juan de Juni. Arfe in 1590 (closed Saturday And here ends the tour of the p.m., Sunday p.m. and Mondays). principal monuments of Valladolid, although the city does Past some gardened ruins of course have other places of appears the Baroque facade of interest – the Archbishop’s the University (9), decorated by Palace (13), the Oriental the Tome brothers with a variety Museum (14), the Casa de of academic symbols and Cervantes (15) and many more. allegories. In its vicinity rises the exceptional College of Santa Cruz (10), one of the first Spanish Renaissance buildings. The Baroque shelves of its library hold around 13,000 volumes printed between the 16th and 19th centuries.

University Church of Santa Maria la Antigua the remains of the , Zamora originally of Arab construction, which still preserves its Tower of Homage, its gate and its moat. The days of splendour of Zamora (pop. 64,421) are long Practically opposite is the past, but so many churches and Byzantine Romanesque other vestiges of that golden age Cathedral (3), which dates back survive that the city today is a to the 12th century. It was veritable museum of erected on top of the original Romanesque art. Unwilling to church built by Alfonso III the wallow in resignation, like the Great, whose legendary deeds rest of the Region this live on in marble. And yet the agricultural and commercial place as it is now still preserves centre has moved with the times. an aura of magic and the East. It is not for nothing that The most strikingly original and Zamora’s legendary best-known feature is the resistance to adversity coined the unusual dome. motto “Zamora was not won in a day". What catches the eye in the interior are the wrought iron Visitors wishing to get a feeling grilles and pulpits and the for the past should begin their extraordinary choir stalls, whose tour at the Portillo de la back-rests are decorated with Traición or Traitor’s Gate (1), episodes from daily life during an entrance in the great walls the Renaissance. In the cloister is that have been so decisive in the the Cathedral Museum, which history of this frontier town. exhibits an important Hard by that undulating stone collection of 15th-century curtain is the Parque del Flemish tapestries (closed Castillo (2). On one side stand Sundays).

Panoramic view

Stone Bridge

The way to the city centre passes be viewed in comfort in the Holy by a series of churches: San Week Museum (7) (open daily). Ildefonso (4), originally built in Standing next to the Museum, the 12th century, boasts vaulted the Church of Santa María la roofs of Gothic cross-work. The Nueva (8) was the scene of the Palacio del Cordón (5) is home bloody “mutiny of the “ in to the Museum of Zamora, 1158. This square is a perfect which has an important example of the symbiosis of archaeological exhibition. And tradition and modernity that spanning the eternal river Duero characterises Zamora, city of the puente de piedra (6), a limitless horizons. stone bridge with 16 fine arches, is practically a symbol of the city.

Also famous are the in Zamora, thanks to the exquisite quality of the processional images. These can

Cathedral Church of Santa María la Nueva Enjoying the sweeping horizons of the Ribera, where its waters Castilla y Leon resemble a “sea turned land“.

And lastly the Ruta de la Plata or Silver Route, one of the arterial Quite apart from past glories and ways of Roman Spain. Running merits, tourists will find these originally from the city of Mérida lands a haven of tranquillity, in to Astorga in scenery and good food. Leon, this is a monumental work A wealthy repository of fine whose wealth of history stems religious artefacts of the past, from its crucial situation. We where the light and the have, then, three routes through atmosphere are superbly places of beauty and legend, entrapped, the Region also whose variegated facets speak of boasts countless natural a particular and highly appealing attractions. Here, the prospects philosophy of life. blend the wildest of scenery with bucolic plains to produce a truly In order to bring out the haunting tapestry. adventure of life in Castilla y Leon we have devised nine new There are three traditional tourist routes, one for each itineraries which travellers of all province of this historic land and ages have followed through the each commencing in a provincial region. The Road to Santiago, a capital. These take in the places metaphor of life itself, is no mere that best highlight the tradition spiritual pilgrimage but the base and the artistic heritage of the on which the framework of region. And these cultural mediaeval Christianity was built. itineraries are interspersed with The ancient Road to the Stars inevitable references to other undoubtedly deserves the proud attractions that nature scatters distinction of being the precursor on the way. of the unity of the peoples of Europe.

“Old father Duero“, the basic axis of regional geography, offers a tremendous variety of scenery on its long course. This route passes from the high mountains at the river source to

35 Avila. The circus of Gredos

Highway 403 runs north from the city of Avila to the district of La Los Galayos. Arenas de San Pedro Moraña, a major site of Castilian Romanesque-Mudejar architecture. There are fine daily, except the second fortnight churches in the villages of Órbita, in September and the first Espinosa de los Caballeros and fortnight in October). Solidly La Lugareja. The latter is anchored in its illustrious past, the incomplete, but even so it is a name of the town derives from marvel of its kind. the 75-metre tower of the Church of San Nicolás de Bari. Arévalo, capital of Moraña, is a town with a warlike tradition Another highly recommended which has been classified as a route runs southwards to the Historic and Artistic site. The Sierra de Gredos, the stony tower of homage of its imposing backbone of Castile. Highway 502 semicircular castle betrays its crosses the centre of the Moorish origins. Within its walls, mountain range by way of the Isabel la Catolica dwelt for a time. Menga pass, at whose top there is In the Plaza del Arrabal stands the a vantage point with innumerable Church of Santo Domingo de attractions for the tourist. Before Silos, where the Gothic naves Navarredonda de Gredos one contrast with the Mudejar comes to the first Parador to be brickwork of the apse. And finally, opened in Spain, in what was the “jewel“ of Arevalo is the once King Alfonso XIII’s hunting Church of San Martín in the Plaza lodge. de la Villa, a magical contrast of superimposed styles. To reach the heart of the massif one turns off on highway 500 to Highway 605 is the route to Hoyos del Espino. The road Madrigal de las Altas Torres. climbs on what is known as the Once the residence of the Royal Platform of Hoyos to the Laguna Court, this is the birthplace of Grande or Great Lagoon, the Queen Isabel la Católica. She was majestic peak of Almanzor born in 1451 in the palace of (2,592 m.) or even as far as the Juan II, which has since been Cinco Lagunas or Five converted to the Monastery of Lagoons. The scenery there is Nuestra Señora de Gracia (open quite breathtaking, a panorama

36 Arévalo El Barco de Avila

of great rocky mounds, fantastical visit the Sanctuary of San Pedro peaks and rock-strewn granite. de Alcántara, where rest the bones of the patron saint of Back at the bottom the road Extremadura. In the Royal Chapel follows the river Tormes to El Museum there are notable Barco de Avila, a town with collections of gold liturgical lovely prospects of Gredos. It objects (closed Mondays). preserves remains of the old walls and, most importantly, the Castle of Valdecorneja, a 15th-century fortress that once belonged to the Dukes of Alba.

Another alternative route goes to the southern face of the Gredos massif. Once through the Pico pass, the same highway 502 carries on to the outskirts of Arenas de San Pedro, the most important point in all this area. Travellers are recommended to Burgos. Heart of Castille

Heading from Burgos to Madrid the N-I highway enters a district where monuments and archaeological remains abound. The importance of the artistic heritage of Lerma, a town with a lordly air, is exemplified by the majestic Ducal Palace, begun by Francisco de Mora in 1605. The most outstanding religious edifice is the Collegiate church of San gigantic Pedro, which offers a fine outlook altarpiece over the river Arlanza. Despite its including scenes in relief from the austere outward appearance, Adoration of the Magi. Of civil inside there is a valuable statue of edifices, the Palace of Colmenares Archbishop Cristobal de Rojas in stands out among the abundant prayer, the work of Juan de Arfe. lordly mansions that adorn the town, which is also celebrated for After a brief halt in Gumiel de its delightful wine. Hizán to see the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion, Highway 122 takes one to La Vid, the next stop is Aranda de where there is a famous convent Duero. One of the sites of longest of the same name, then heading tradition in this, the chief town of north on highway 111 one comes the Ribera of Burgos, is the to Peñaranda de Duero. This is a Church of Santa María. The small town clustered around the southern face is devised as a foot of the old castle, which was

Museum of Pharmacy, Peñaranda de Duero Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos

38 built at the time of the To the south-west lies the Reconquest. The Palace of Monastery of Santo Domingo de Avellaneda is a Renaissance Silos, a universal pearl of building whose main door is Romanesque art which is now a decorated with warriors and centre of spiritual and artistic heraldic shields. As well as the pilgrimage. It was razed by the Church of Santa Ana, visitors are Arabs and rebuilt by Saint recommended to see the Dominic, whose remains are interesting Museum of Pharmacy preserved in a tomb excavated in in the Ximeno apothecary’s (open the rock. The sensational 11th- Monday to Friday and some 12th-century Romanesque cloister Saturdays and Sundays a.m.). displays magnificent reliefs and sculpted capitals portraying a Not far away, slightly off the main great variety of subjects. The track, is Clunia, once a city of the monastery, run by Benedictine Celtiberian tribe of the Arevaci. monks who hold Gregorian It still preserves a Roman masses, also has a fine library and amphitheatre, tombs and myriad an 18th-century apothecarium other remains. (open daily; closed some holidays and days of monastic celebration). In the eastern part of the are a number of highly recommended places. From Lerma one carries on to Covarrubias, a town which derives its name from the reddish caves that abound in the neighbourhood. There, the Collegiate church of San Cosme y San Damián holds the tomb of Fernán González, first Count of Castile. The museum has an important collection of sculptures, further enriched by the Triptych of the Three Kings, attributed to Gil de Siloe (closed Tuesdays).

Ducal Palace, Lerma Leon. The San Miguel de las Dueñas, a town which grew up Road around the celebrated to Santiago monastery of that name. And a little Following the same route trodden further on lies for centuries by pilgrims, the Ponferrada, which traveller leaves the city of Leon by grew into a city largely highway 120, with the first stop at thanks to the presence of Hospital de Órbigo. Two the Order of the monoliths, one at either end of Templars. On the bank of the Roman bridge there, serve as the river Sil stands the castle, a reminder that this is the exact recently refurbished and now site of that “joust“ or knightly open to the public. Worth seeing duel known to posterity as “the in the old town centre is the Clock honourable passage“. Tower, the only part of the old city walls left standing. Further along the road is Astorga, the “Asturica Augusta“ Villafranca del Bierzo is the last of Imperial Rome. Outstanding in town of any importance on the a harmonious monumental Road to Santiago in its passage assemblage which has seen through the province of Leon. moments of historic splendour, is This is a highly colourful town at the Cathedral. Particularly whose entrance stands the interesting in the interior is the popular 12th-century main altarpiece, the work of Romanesque Church of Santiago. Gaspar Becerra, and the pulpit Pilgrims who fell sick and could and choir stalls. Of the fifty-odd not continue their journey could exhibits in the Diocesan Museum, still attain their jubilee by the most striking is a gilt silver prostrating themselves before the casket, known as the casket of San Genadio (open daily). In the Episcopal Palace, a neo-Gothic edifice designed by Antonio Gaudi, is the Museum of the Roads, a rich repository of mementos of the pilgrimage to Santiago (closed Sundays).

The N-VI highway takes us to the area of El Bierzo. Following the mining town of Bembibre comes Cathedral of Astorga

40

Gate of Pardon of this church. In climbs up to the Alto de Tarna the surrounding area travellers (1,490 metres). From there, a can visit the curious mine of Las delightful succession of valleys, Médulas, where the Romans lakes and mountain rings lead to extracted thousands of tons of Posada de Valdeón, the main gold. town in the Eden-like valley of the same name. The ultimate goal Those tourists interested in of this excursion is to follow the “green itineraries“ are best legendary Senda del Cares. This advised to head for the north of is a breathtaking walk through the province to experience the the “divine gorge“ hemmed in by eternal struggle between water rock walls hundreds of metres and stone in the Picos de Europa high to a spot that offers utterly National Park. Leaving Leon on marvellous panoramic outlooks. Highway 621, the road passes through a number of villages as it

Posada de Valdeón

41 Palencia.

The romanesque

The northern part of the abounds in examples of the best Romanesque art, in most cases linked to the legendary Road to Santiago. Visitors caring to take their time and stop in practically every village will be rewarded by some real architectural marvels.

Heading north on Highway 615, the road leads to Carrión de los Condes, a key town on the old pilgrim paths. Clearly mediaeval in origin, the highlight of the old South-west from Carrion lies town is the Convent of Santa Villalcázar de Sirga, a Clara, founded in the 13th reconstruction of the past that century, with a church and annexe has been rendered habitable, site attached (open daily; closed 15 of the Church of Santa María la October to 15 November). Also Blanca, once an encomienda of worth seeing are the Romanesque the Order of the Templars. A little churches of Santa María del farther on is Frómista, a place Camino and Santiago, the latter with a noble past where the of which is crowned by a striking miracle of faith conjoins with frieze in which sculpted figures of reason. The Church of San Martín, the twelve apostles surround the perfect in its harmony and beauty, Christ Enthroned or Pantocrator. is a veritable landmark in Jacobean Romanesque. On the outskirts of the town, near the mediaeval bridge, is the Northwards lies Herrera de Monastery of San Zoilo, a former Pisuerga, which preserves refuge for pilgrims containing an remains of the old walls and a elegant cloister wrought by Juan number of emblazoned houses. de Badajoz. Also on the same road is Aguilar de Campoo, one of the key

42 points on this Palencian square of incalculable historic and Romanesque route. artistic value. And the last stop on A good example of what the route is Pedrosa de la Vega, makes it important is the site of an ancient Roman mansion Monastery of Santa María, one containing some lovely mosaics – of the oldest Cistercian edifices the ideal conclusion to this in Spain. The Collegiate church of journey into the past. San Miguel, a 14th-century Gothic work, contains an interesting parish museum which is open daily. And next to the ruins of the traditional castle stands the Hermitage of Santa Cecilia, embellished by a strikingly graceful tower.

The area encompassing the outskirts of Aguilar de Campoo and Herrera de Pisuerga preserves the largest collection of examples Church of San Martin, Fromista of Romanesque in the whole province. More than fifty churches, monasteries and hermitages are clustered in the Ojeda valley and the northern districts. Example of this are the towns of Olleros de Pisuerga, which has a curious church in a cave, or Santa María de Mave. Aguilar de Campoo From here there is a westward route which traverses the Fuentes Carrionas y Fuente Cobre nature zone, an area liberally endowed with tarns and wetlands. The route carries on to the mining town of Guardo then turns south on Highway 615 as far as Saldaña, a town Villalcázar de Sirga with a fine Roman bridge and an old Salamanca. elements. The Church of La Asunción, built in the 18th The mountains century, contains a figure of the Cristo del Sudor, attributed to Juan de Juni. Farther south is the Travellers through the various Sanctuary of San Jose, a nunnery mountain ranges of the province inhabited by discalced Carmelites. of Salamanca will find wonderful scenery and examples of well- The next stop is Miranda de preserved popular and Castañar, a fortified town whose monumental architecture. This emblazoned houses recall the route leaves the city of Salamanca magnificence of its noble past. by highway N-620 in the direction As well as the parish church, it is of Ciudad Rodrigo, turning left on worth stopping at the 16th- to highway 525 after about fifty century bull-ring with its kilometres. traditional stone safety barriers. The next objective is the Sierra Past El Cabaco, the road starts to de Bejar in the south-eastern wind upwards through dense part of the province. forests of chestnut. This attractive zone is the westward bulwark of The capital Bejar offers a the Sierra de Gredos, whose comprehensive sample of highest point is the Peña de traditional mountain architecture. Francia (1,732 metres). The The town’s many attractions summit is crowned by a collection include the Ducal palace, a major of buildings dating back to 1434. civil edifice built in the mid-16th This is the Sanctuary of Santa century. The best known church is María de la Peña, shrine of the that of Santa María la Mayor, image of a dark-skinned Virgin which dates back and the Child. to the time of

A scant ten kilometres farther downhill is La Alberca, whose alleyways constitute a veritable museum of popular Candelario

Repopulation (13th century). On in 1165 and was not finished until the edge of the town it is worth the mid-16th century. Important stopping at the estate known as details are the Gate of Chains, El Bosque, a beautiful Italianate adorned by a frieze which is a garden with a little palace and a Gothic gallery of sculpted reliefs, variety of fountains. and inside, the choir stalls decorated by Rodrigo Aleman The end of this itinerary is with a series of burlesque and Candelario, a town of rural even profane scenes. The mountain dwellings. Behind the Diocesan Museum contains an 19th-century Town Hall is the interesting section of religious Church of La Asunción, whose gold work and ornaments chief attractions are the main (open daily). altarpiece and the Mudejar caissoned ceiling of the main chapel.

Another place recommended to travellers is Ciudad Rodrigo, which is also reached by the N-620. On a promontory in the upper part of the town stands the castle, built by Enrique II to watch over and defend the town. Today, this legendary fortress is a modern Parador looking out over the river Águeda.

The most outstanding building is the Cathedral, which was begun Parador, Ciudad Rodrigo

45 Segovia. Tuesdays). The next point of interest is Sepulveda and the The Royal Houses Church of El Salvador, which boasts one of the oldest porticoes in Spain (1093). No more than Leaving the city of Segovia in the seven kilometres farther on, one direction of Soria, Highway 110 of the best “green“ itineraries in leads to Torrecaballeros, where the whole Region commences. the parish church is a fine This is the Hoces del Duratón example of Romanesque art. The Nature Park, domain of the same is true of Sotosalbos, the tawny vulture. On the far side of next village on the route. The a little 18th-century bridge stands Church of San Miguel is the Hermitage of San Frutos outstanding for its impressive del Duraton, patron saint of porticoed gallery and a small Segovia. museum. No more than 2 kilometres away, in the leafy Carrying on westwards the road environs of Collado Hermoso, comes to Turégano, a town stand the ruins of the Monastery crowned by a superb castle. From of Nuestra Señora de la Sierra. Turegano it carries on to Cuéllar, the province’s second city and a The Town Arch opens the way site of Mudejar Romanesque. The into Pedraza and its delightfully castle is a mediaeval structure of extravagant Plaza Mayor. The great historic and artistic interest, castle tower was the subject of a the jewel of a town which boasts study by the painter Ignacio several important churches: San Zuloaga and now contains a Martín, San Andrés, San Esteban museum devoted to Zuloaga’s and others. work (closed Mondays and Heading back towards Segovia on Highway 601, there is still time for a detour to take in Coca, famous as the birthplace of the emperor Theodosius, and above all for its castle. This is an exceptional

46 Hoces del Duraton Nature Park Castle of Coca example of Mudejar-Gothic palace is a succession of dazzling military architecture, surrounded salons decorated with artistic by a deep moat and heavily objects of all kinds. There is also a fortified. Back on the main road, fine collection of tapestries and a Carbonero el Mayor boasts museum devoted specifically to what is possibly the finest them (June to September: open altarpiece in the province. And daily. October to March: closed from Carbonero the road leads Mondays). back to the city of the Aqueduct. Nearby is the Royal Glass Works of La Granja, an industrial building There is another equally with a permanent exhibition of interesting itinerary in the glass works of art (closed southern part of the province. Mondays and Tuesdays except for A scant 11 km from Segovia on groups by arrangement). And the the N-601 is the Royal Palace of La final touch is provided by French- Granja de Ildefonso, in a fine style gardens with a collection of natural setting. Built in 1721 on fountains and statues providing a the site of a former hospice, it setting of vivid light and colour. was intended by King Philip V to be a royal residence in the style of the Court of Versailles. In the collegiate church are the tombs of Philip himself and his wife Isabel de Farnesio. The interior of the

Royal Palace, La Granja de San Ildefonso Soria. The lans of el Cid

The excursion leaves the city of Apocalypse by Beato de Liebana Soria on highway 122 and goes to (open daily). El Burgo de Osma, a town indelibly marked by its status as Having soaked up the atmosphere Episcopal capital. The old heart of of this town of countless columns, the town spreads around the the excursion continues to San Cathedral, built in 1232. With Esteban de Gormaz, where a later Renaissance additions and a rapid visit is recommended to two slim tower dated 1739, the excellent churches: San Miguel cathedral is a perfect example of and Nuestra Señora del Ribero, the most refined religious art. both porticoed Romanesque Inside is a fine altarpiece by Juan edifices. Turning back, a local de Juni and the tomb of the road leads off to Gormaz, site of founder, Pedro de the most impressive fortress in the Osma. And in the . This is a sacristy a priceless magnificent Arab castle object is preserved: with 28 towers, the codex of the considered the largest in Commentary on the Europe. During the

Plaza Mayor. Medinaceli Flemish painting, Berlanga de Duero Burgo de Osma

Reconquest it was gifted by King Almazán, whose Romanesque Alfonso VI to the legendary Cid church is set off by an unusual Campeador. cupola with a Moslem aura. In the Plaza Mayor stands the Palace of Carrying on down highway 116 the Counts of Altamira, which has there is a turn-off to the right a splendid Renaissance facade. which leads to Berlanga de Carrying on south on highway Duero. Surrounded by trees,, its 111, the next stop is Medinaceli, most outstanding building is the a town whose origins lie in the Collegiate church of Santa María remote past. A triumphal archway del Mercado, a monument richly built long before the birth of endowed with carvings, tombs Christ is a reminder of the ancient and altarpieces. In the environs, Roman Ocilis. From here, the last set on a hill near the village of stop on the route is the Cistercian Casillas, stands the Mozarabic monastery of Santa María de Hermitage of San Baudelio, a Huerta, one of the purest unique structure in Spanish pre- examples of Castilian-Leonese Romanesque architecture. A scant . 4 kilometres away, Caltojar preserves the Church of San Miguel, another major religious monument whose most striking feature is a number of capitals adorned with enigmatic faces.

The traveller should now return to highway 116 to reach

49 Valladolid. The next destination in this land of vine and fortress is Medina Vineyards and del Campo, best symbolised by monasteries the Castle of La Mota, a mass of brick and mortar raised in the 15th century. The Collegiate church of San Antolín preserves a The province of Valladolid offers a splendid haut relief by Juan de choice of excellent local tourist Juni, entitled La Piedad. In one routes. Heading east from the city corner of the Plaza Mayor stands of Valladolid on highway 122 one the modest house where Queen comes to Peñafiel, a town that Isabel la Catolica died in 1504, spreads out at the foot of a whose statue dominates the majestic castle whose outlines square. resemble a ship. The most outstanding artistic edifice in Heading north on highway N-VI, Peñafiel is the Church of San it is worth making a stop in Pablo, founded in 1324 by the Rueda, a town renowned for its Infante Don Juan Manuel. The wines, which are sold under the various different elements that go “Rueda” appellation of origin. to make up the whole, among The same road carries on to them the funeral chapel of the Tordesillas, a city with a long Manuels, make this a major and noble history. Here it was achievement of provincial that Portuguese and Mudejar-Gothic. divided their dominion over the largest empire in the world, two years after Columbus first touched Another considerably longer land in America. Tordesillas boasts excursion is to take highway 601 a pearl of Arab art in the Royal as far as Portillo. From there, Monastery of Santa Clara, a there is a turn-off to the industrial palace built by King Alfonso XI. town of Íscar, once the scene of The architecture and decoration many deeds of knightly valour. of all the rooms is truly striking, From there, highway 112 leads to including a curious portable Olmedo, capital of the Mudejar reredos and the clavichord that route of the province of belonged to Queen Joan the Mad Valladolid. Highly recommended (closed Mondays ). here are the Church of Santa Maria del Castillo and the Church Still further north lies Medina de of San Miguel, with one Baroque Rioseco, the erstwhile “city of and one Plateresque altarpiece. the admirals”. This monumental

50 site in the Tierra de Campos Castle of La Mota, Medina del Campo contains a number of churches of great sumptuary wealth. In one of the chapels of the Church of Santa María, an Isabelline Gothic work, there is a marvellous altarpiece by Juan de Juni, dedicated to the Inmaculada. The Church of Santiago exhibits a wonderfully finished triple altarpiece in Churrigueresque Rueda style. The church also contains an exhibition with the images that are carried in during the local Holy Week celebrations.

Church of Santa Maria, Olmedo

51 Zamora. Lakes of Sanabria

A scant 33 km east of the city of Lake of Sanabria Zamora on highway 122 is Toro, a quiet little town but one with an with Granja de Moreruela there intense history. The unusual is a turn-off to the Salines of layout of the town centre Villafáfila, an oasis of life in the naturally brings the visitor to its middle of Tierra de Campos. Back most outstanding monument, the on highway 630 and still heading Collegiate church of Santa María north is Benavente, “the town of la Mayor. The building has the the counts”. The monumental presence of a cathedral, with a interest here is to be found in a magnificent west portico and a series of churches, finishing off cupola with a Byzantine air. In the with a visit to the Torre del sacristy its most important Caracol or Tower of the Snail, treasure is preserved – a Flemish all that remains of the Castle of panel dated 1520, entitled La the Counts of Benavente. For Virgen de la Mosca or The Virgin many years now there has been a and the Fly. Parador backing on to this historic relic. However, the tourist route really leads to the north of the province, Westward from Benavente on which means leaving the city of highway 620 is Valle del Tera, Zamora by highway 630. Level one of whose points of interest is the Hermitage of Santa Marta de Tera, an example of 12th-century Romanesque. A few kilometres farther on lies Mombuey, whose church although modest boasts a curious artistic feature. This is an unusual tower of curved structures built in green sandstone. Half-way up an ox’s head protrudes, clearly alluding to the name of the village (“buey” means “ox” in Spanish). The next stop is Puebla de Sanabria and its imposing fortress, an archetypal mediaeval defensive structure. The town has

Tower of Santa Maria, Mombuey Monastery, Granja de Moreruela River Duero, Toro

a number of noble houses and Castañeda, which grew up mansions adorned with old crests, around the monastery of the such as the 15th-century Town same name. Among the surviving Hall, which stands in the Plaza original buildings is the Mayor. Romanesque church, a true haven of life and culture. The restored This route ends at the Lago de monastery buildings now house Sanabria Nature Park, an the Nature Park Environmental incomparably beautiful setting Education Centre, where there is rich in customs and traditions. a permanent exhibition Mountain landscapes like Peña illustrating the ecosystems of the Trevinca, Peña Negra and the Sanabria valley. Sierra de La Cabrera encircle an area of wetlands whose history goes back ten thousand years. This is the largest lake in Spain, 3.5 kilometres long and 2 kilometres wide. Right in the heart of these splendid natural surroundings lies the village of San Martín de

53 popular attraction is the ascent Leisure and to the Hermitage of San Juan entertainment de Monte, which takes place on the Monday of Pentecost in Fairs and Miranda de Ebro.

Festivals During the month of October, The Region has seen a major Leon offers a ceremony with a flourishing of cultural activities in long local tradition to mark the recent years. Outstanding feast of San Froilan. This is thematic exhibitions periodically known as Las Cantaderas, an travel to the provincial capitals, event including traditional supplementing the range of singing and dancing opposite the entertainment offered by the Cathedral. endless list of celebrations held annually in our towns. These Yet another of these curious old popular festivals bring the visitor traditions is the Romería de into contact with local customs Santo Toribio, which takes place that have been handed down in Palencia in mid-April. From the from generation to generation. saint’s hermitage the local councillors “bombard” the public Starting with Avila, besides the with bags of “pan y quesillo” musical performances put on in (lit. “bread and cheese”, a the Summer Fiestas, the last blossom said to resemble these) quarter of the year normally to commemorate a mediaeval includes theatre and classical miracle. In August is the music concerts in the Cathedral. International Descent of the In a more traditional vein, in Pisuerga, which attracts mid-September there is a romería canoeists from all over or popular devotional excursion the world. in the town of , dedicated to Nuestra Señora The bustle of the university is de Chilla and famous for the tangible in Salamanca’s local dancing in traditional local Carnival where boisterous costume. festivity mingles with events of a more serious tone, not dissimilar At the end of June the Fiestas to the atmosphere of La Alberca of San Pedro and San Pablo during the Feast of the in Burgos offer a series of bull Assumption. The Loa, for fights (the bull is a prominent instance, is a curious religious feature of many celebrations) play in which characters and contests of traditional like the Devil and the Gallants musical instruments. Another appear.

54 In Segovia, normally in June, Holy Week is also a major event there is a well-known Festival in Zamora, where the of Puppets or Titirimundi. processions contain some Before this, on 5 February, is the absolutely priceless examples of Romeria of Las Águedas in the Castilian religious imagery. On a little village of Zamarramala. more relaxed note is the Fuente One of the main events is del vino or “Fountain of “women’s day” when the ladies wine” which takes place in Toro take charge of the town. on 28 August. This is a romeria held in the main square, where the famous local flows The village of San Pedro in rivers. Manrique in Soria celebrates the magical night of San Juan in its own very peculiar way. This Sports event commemorates the Celtiberian rite of the Passage of There are a good many options Fire, in which participants walk for the practice of sports in this through the bonfires carrying region, almost always having someone on their shoulders. some connection with nature. Also memorable are the For winter sports enthusiasts Jornadas de la Matanza, there are ski-slopes at La literally “days of slaughter”, in Lunada, La Pinilla, Leitariegos Burgo de Osma, a series of and San Isidro. All of these culinary and cultural events provide a range of services that which are held in February and ensures a comfortable and March. enjoyable stay.

In summer Castilla y Leon offers As the regional capital, a great many natural zones and Valladolid offers an outstanding parks for enjoyment, in which cultural programme all the year round. Top of the list comes the Golf course International Film Week, a festival which has attained considerable prestige thanks to the quality of the movies shown. The profound religious faith of Castile comes to the fore in Holy Week, when 29 artistic images are carried through the streets in procession. water normally plays a prominent part – lagoons and Eating and reservoirs ideal for outdoor drinking recreation. Here there are all sorts of river and water sports in The culinary tradition of Castilla y settings which visitors will find Leon has something for everyone. paradisiacal. There are normally The range of cuisine is varied and camping sites and other attractive, thanks to the skill with comfortable and economical which local produce is prepared. types of accommodation in the The story that in this part of the vicinity of these wetlands. country there is nothing but roast meats is no more than a cliché, The mountains of Castilla y Leon but the fact is that here the age- provide the ideal setting for old art of the brick oven such sports as trekking, bicycle has been honed to perfection, and horseback touring, producing either tender lamb or rafting or, for those seeking a rosy suckling pig, known as bit of risk, climbing. All these “toston” in this part of the world.. leisure and recreational activities are available in Obviously the cuisine of Castilla y unspoilt surroundings of great Leon is by no means confined to natural beauty. these succulent dishes. There is the juicy veal of Avila, the As an area of both mountain marvellous hams of Guijuelo and plain, the region also offers (Salamanca), and of course all many opportunities for kinds of sausage, which is a shooting and fishing. There chapter to itself in the regional are exclusive game reserves and gastronomy. The names are countless fishing reserves, so legion: chorizo from Cantimpalo that the amateur does not go (Segovia), the simple and delicious home empty-handed at the end morcilla (blood sausage) of of the day. There are also good Burgos, and the botillo (a round golf courses and grounds for pork sausage) from El Bierzo autochthonous sports such as (Leon), which has been around skittles, as well as first-rate since Roman times. Art and craft football and basketball teams. are both required to produce this It is well said that sport is culinary delight, which is very one of the most reliable gauges difficult to make. of the vitality and progress of peoples. And rounding off the meats, these lands abound in game, all of which naturally finishes up on

56 the table. Stewed quail that clearly stands out in the Valladolid-style, from endless variety of our Segovia and pigeons from Zamora confectionery. Among the are but a few of the most sought- sweetest and tastiest after dishes. of these products are the popular mantecados of Astorga, the One of the foundation stones of rosquillas ciegas of Palencia, the regional cookery is pulses. nicanores of Boñar (Leon), the Pottages like the ones to be sugared of Salamanca and found in our towns – maragato, the yemas de Santa Teresa of Avila. for instance – would not be possible without chick-peas from Any menu worth its salt is Fuentesauco (Zamora). Then there naturally accompanied by one of are lentils from La Armuña (Leon), our noble regional wines – a food potatoes from Burgos and broad and a token of health which in beans from Segovia. And fish recent years has had well- dishes again are another story deserved success on the apart. One of the most international markets. There is characteristic elements in this area the superb , rose is trout. Simply fried in olive oil, it from , the fresh whites of is one of the best examples of Rueda, the full-bodied reds of what Alvaro Cunqueiro defined as Toro and the celebrated wines of “the Christian cuisine of the El Bierzo, to name but a few West”. of the best examples of a series of products which, drunk fresh The preparation of foods with and pure, more than match their such individual personalities European counterparts for requires a lot of love, time and quality. talent, a special something

Specialities from the cuisine of Segovia songs to their beloved ones to the Folklore and strains of guitar and bandurria (a crafts small lute-like instrument), in couplets which admirably express The autochthonous folklore, the sentiments and traditions of bursting with popular feeling, is our peoples. woven from the same stuff as the inhabitants of the Meseta, the Similarly, regional crafts betray a tremendous wealth and variety tradition characterised by subtle born of the multifarious strands variety and charm. Despite the of ethnic and cultural influence inevitable decline of hand-crafted that have pervaded this territory. articles, artisanal techniques have Its greatest achievement is to evolved to combine traditional reflect with wonderful aesthetic standards with new industrial sens bility the love of things one’s approaches. In this way, a number own – the music, the customs, and of family lines have been enabled of course the shared history. to keep up activities that were carried on by their ancestors This folklore is associated with hundreds of years ago. events and traditions, with common acts and ceremonies of In the Gredos massif in the towns and villages – for example province of Avila, there are still the coplas traditionally sung at workshops turning out striking Christmas in a merry, festive creations in wood, leather, medley that includes the time- wickerwork and ceramics. The city honoured carols. There is another of Burgos holds shows of elegant type of melody linked to religious classical Castilian furniture, while liturgy, like the dances executed in the town of Arenas de San by the youngsters before the Pedro (Avila), pottery is booming. carven figure of the local patron saint, to the strains of flageolet The traditional looms of Val de and tabor. This is a singularly San Lorenzo, near Astorga, colourful rite, brimming with produce typical blankets and intimate emotion for those who carpets. These are also among the have been practising it since time most popular products of immemorial. Palencia, which is renowned for its stout blankets made of pure One folk custom embodying great wool. wit and ingenuity is that surrounding the lovers’ Salamanca is far and away the serenades The youths do the province with the greatest variety rounds of the streets offering up of crafts. In the capital one can

58 Craft market in Calle Mayor, Palencia find articles connected with the hand, specialises in ceramics and cattle-breeding in the west of the basketwork, while Zamora is best province – for example saddles or known for the wooden barrels the famous leather boots known made in to supply as botos camperos. Typical the needs of the wine-growing products are articles of gold and area. silver work, mainly rings and earrings, in the charro style of western Salamanca. The best embroidery can be found in La Alberca, where garments adorned with jewellery and gold and silver work, known as trajes de vistas, are worn on festive occasions.

Segovia is outstanding for the tapestries and leather work that prosper in some parts of the province. Soria produces wooden furniture and wrought iron goods. Valladolid, on the other

59 USEFUL INFORMATION COMMUNICATIONS

Situated centrally in the northern half of Spain, Castilla y Leon is a key sector in the network of peninsular communications. Thanks to the modernisation and remodelling of highways in recent years, the preferred mode of transport is road, either by car or by regular or charter bus lines. It is fair to say that the automobile has brought people closer together and shortened distances. The most important highway for the region is perhaps the N-VI which links Madrid with A Coruña by way of Segovia, Valladolid, Zamora and Leon. The N-I runs from Madrid to Burgos. Going from south to north, the N-630 traverses the provinces of Salamanca, Zamora and Leon then carries on north to the Bay of . Besides these, there is a comprehensive network of local and district roads which are being constantly improved. The best option for travellers is therefore the bus.

BUS STATIONS Avila: 920 22 01 54. Burgos: 947 28 88 55. Leon: 987 21 10 00. Palencia: 979 74 32 22. Salamanca: 923 23 67 17. Soria: 975 22 51 60. Valladolid: 983 23 63 08. Zamora: 980 52 12 81. Traffic-Highway Information: 900 123 505. Years ago, the basic means of transport from town to town was the train. This is no longer the case, but nevertheless Castilla y Leon has good direct rail links with the principal cities of Spain.

RENFE (TRAINS) Avila: 920 25 02 02. Burgos: 947 20 35 60. Leon: 987 27 02 02. Palencia: 979 74 30 19. Salamanca: 923 12 02 02. Segovia: 921 42 07 74. Soria: 975 23 02 02. Valladolid: 983 20 02 02. Zamora: 980 52 11 10.

60 TOURIST INFORMATION Country code: 34 TURESPAÑA Tourist Information: 901 300 600. www.tourspain.es Tourist Information, Castilla y Leon 902 203 030. www.jcyl.es/turismo Federation of Torist Initiative Centres of Castilla y Leon / FECITCAL. Pasión 5-7, 4º A. 47001 Valladolid. 983 35 78 99, fax 983 35 79 99.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES

Avila: Plaza de la Catedral, 4. 05001 Central Booking Office. Avila. 920 21 13 87, fax 920 25 37 17. Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid. Burgos: Plaza Alonso Martínez, 7. 09003 91 516 66 66, fax 91 516 66 57. Burgos. 947 20 31 25, www.parador.es fax 947 27 65 29. Avila: Leon: Plaza de Regla, 4. 24003 Leon. Marqués Canales de Chozas, 2. Avila. 987 23 70 82, fax 987 27 33 91. 920 21 13 40, fax 920 22 61 66 Palencia: Calle Mayor, 105. 34001 Carretera Barraco-Béjar, km 43. Palencia. 979 74 00 68, Navarredonda de Gredos. fax 979 70 08 22. 920 34 80 48, fax 920 34 82 05 Salamanca: Casa de las Conchas. Rúa Leon: Mayor. 37008 Salamanca. 923 26 85 71 Plaza de San Marcos, 7. Leon. fax 923 26 24 92. 987 23 73 00, fax 987 23 34 58 Segovia: Plaza Mayor, 10. 40001 Segovia. Avenida Calvo Sotelo. Villafranca del 921 46 03 34, fax 921 46 03 30. Bierzo. 987 5401 75, fax 987 54 00 10 Soria: Plaza Ramón y Cajal. 42003 Soria. Palencia: 975 21 20 52, fax 975 21 20 52. Carretera de Resoba, km 2. Valladolid: Santiago, 19. 47001 Cervera de Pisuerga. 979 87 00 75, Valladolid. 983 34 40 13, fax 979 87 02 34. fax 983 35 47 31. Salamanca: Zamora: Santa Clara, 20. 49014 Zamora. Teso de la Feria, 2. Salamanca. 980 53 18 45, fax 980 53 38 13. 923 19 20 82, fax 923 19 20 87. Madrid: Oficina de Promoción Turística Plaza del Castilla, 1. Ciudad Rodrigo. de Castilla y León. Alcalá, 79. 28009 923 46 01 50, fax 923 45 04 04. Madrid. 91 578 03 24. Segovia: Carretera de Valladolid-La Lastrilla. USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Segovia. 921 44 37 37, National Police: 091 fax 921 43 73 62. Local Police: 092 Soria: Civil Guard: 062 Parque del Castillo. Soria. Citizens’ Information: 010 975 24 08 00, fax 975 24 08 03 Valladolid: MEDICAL EMERGENCIES: Carretera de Salamanca. Tordesillas. Avila: 920 21 29 99 983 77 00 51, fax 983 77 10 13. Burgos: 947 28 18 28 Zamora: León: 987 22 22 22 Plaza de Viriato, 5. Zamora. Palencia: 979 16 70 00 980 51 44 97, fax 980 53 00 63. Salamanca: 923 29 12 08 Paseo de Ramón y Cajal. Benavente. Segovia: 921 41 91 00 980 63 03 00, fax 980 63 03 03. Soria: 975 22 15 29 Carretera Lago, 18. Puebla de Sanabria. Valladolid: 983 42 04 00 980 62 00 01, fax 980 62 03 51 Zamora: 980 54 82 00 SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD

CANADA. Toronto. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. , 2 Bloor Street West suite 3402. TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2. 1416/961 31 31, fax 1416/961 19 92, e-mail: [email protected] GREAT BRITAIN. London. SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE. 22-23, Manchester Square. 22-23. LONDON W1M 5AP. 44207/486 80 77, fax 44207/486 80 34, e-mail: [email protected] JAPAN. Tokyo. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105. 813/34 32 61 41, fax 813 / 34 32 61 44, e-mail: [email protected] RUSSIA. Moscow. MOSCOW SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE. Tverskaya – 16/2 Business Center "Galeria Aktor" 6ª floor. MOSCÚ 103009. 7095/935 83 97, fax 7095 / 935 83 96, e-mail: [email protected] SINGAPORE. Singapore. SPANISH TOURIST OFFICEL. 541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower #09-04. 28881 SINGAPORE. 657/37 30 08, fax 657 / 37 31 73, e-mail: [email protected]

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Los Angeles. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960. BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211. 1323/658 71 95, fax 1323/658 10 61, e-mail: [email protected] Chicago. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. Water Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845, North Michigan Avenue. CHICAGO, ILL 60-611. 1312/642 19 92, fax 1312/642 98 17, e-mail: [email protected] Miami. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 1221 Brickell Avenue. MIAMI, Florida 33131. 1305/358 19 92, fax 1305/358 82 23, e-mail: [email protected] New York. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 666 Fifth Avenue 35th Floor. NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103. 1212/265 88 22, fax 1212 / 265 88 64, e-mail: [email protected]

EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35. 91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67. Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 16. 91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33. Japan: Serrano, 109. 91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21. Russia: Velazquez, 155. 91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12 of America: Serrano, 75. 91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03. SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD

CANADA. Toronto. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. Florida, 2 Bloor Street West suite 3402. TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2. 1416/961 31 31, fax 1416/961 19 92, e-mail: [email protected] GREAT BRITAIN. London. SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE. 22-23, Manchester Square. 22-23. LONDON W1M 5AP. 44207/486 80 77, fax 44207/486 80 34, e-mail: [email protected] JAPAN. Tokyo. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105. 813/34 32 61 41, fax 813 / 34 32 61 44, e-mail: [email protected] RUSSIA. Moscow. MOSCOW SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE. Tverskaya – 16/2 Business Center "Galeria Aktor" 6ª floor. MOSCÚ 103009. 7095/935 83 97, fax 7095 / 935 83 96, e-mail: [email protected] SINGAPORE. Singapore. SPANISH TOURIST OFFICEL. 541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower #09-04. 28881 SINGAPORE. 657/37 30 08, fax 657 / 37 31 73, e-mail: [email protected]

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Los Angeles. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960. BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211. 1323/658 71 95, fax 1323/658 10 61, e-mail: [email protected] Chicago. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. Water Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845, North Michigan Avenue. CHICAGO, ILL 60-611. 1312/642 19 92, fax 1312/642 98 17, e-mail: [email protected] Miami. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 1221 Brickell Avenue. MIAMI, Florida 33131. 1305/358 19 92, fax 1305/358 82 23, e-mail: [email protected] New York. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 666 Fifth Avenue 35th Floor. NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103. 1212/265 88 22, fax 1212 / 265 88 64, e-mail: [email protected]

EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35. 91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67. Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 16. 91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33. Japan: Serrano, 109. 91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21. Russia: Velazquez, 155. 91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12 United States of America: Serrano, 75. 91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03. Ministerio deEconomía de Comercio yTurismo Secretaría deEstado Tur I españa

Spain Castilla y Leon