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On a Recent Jaunt to Paris, Coast Contributing Writer Suzette Lipscomb Takes in the 16Th Arrondissement and Beyond

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On a Recent Jaunt to Paris, Coast Contributing Writer Suzette Lipscomb Takes in the 16Th Arrondissement and Beyond ON A RECENT JAUNT TO PARIS, COAST CONTRIBUTING WRITER SUZETTE LIPSCOMB o oh lTAKES IN a THE 16TH la ARRONDISSEMENT Stay AND BEYOND STAY: SHANGRI-LA HOTEL Nestled amongst ancient trees on a breezy Prince Roland Bonaparte’s former private residential street, it's easy to imagine why palace was purchased in 2006 by the Hong Kong- Napoleon Bonaparte's petit nephew called what based luxury hotel group and is its first property is now the Shangri-La Hotel, Paris home. This in Europe. Located in Place d’Iena, the property less than two-year-old oasis of utter calm in an has undergone a painstaking four-year renovation, otherwise crowded European capital near The which by the end of this year will include a pool Eiffel Tower is its own cultural center in Paris’s located in the prince’s former imperial stables, as chic 16th arrondissement. well as a spa and fitness center. Located in an area with one of the highest Perfectionism is evident everywhere in concentrations of museums in Europe, the this 81-room property. The walls are Parisian hotel is just steps from the renowned Guimet in style, but Oriental touches, most often in CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Museum, which offers Paris’s most extensive statement pieces and hospitality, accentuate A balcony from a suite permanent collection of Asian art and oriental the magnificent bones. As with the rest of the at the Shangri-La Hotel, exhibits. Also nearby are the treasures of the hotel, Richard Martinet directed the architectural Paris overlooks the Palais Galliera, Palais de Tokyo, Museum of Man, renovations and Pierre-Yves Rochon designed Eiffel Tower; The Grand Museum of Modern Art, and the Marmottan. the interior style. South-facing and bathed in Staircase to the lobby at Situated a block from the Trocadero and natural light, many of the rooms and suites the Shangri-La; art deco Aquarium of Paris, there is so much to see in the feature a direct view of the Eiffel Tower and the buildings are part of an vicinity, it's not necessary to leave. Seine. Nearly half of the rooms and suites have architecture tour of the But you will. The evening views of the Eiffel private balconies. When I arrive in my room, 16th arrondissement Tower are bewitching. And while I am in town, which feels as refined as a museum gallery, the Cité de L’Architecture et Du Patrimoine jasmine green tea is steeping in a fresh pot in is featuring an exhibit of noteworthy Parisian a custom crafted wicker basket filled with two Mansions, which includes the Shangri-La. exquisite floral cups. 140 coast :: JUNE 2012 JUNEJUNE 2012 :: coast 141 ANNE VALÉRIE HASH meal later that evening at L'Abeille (“the bee” in What do Tilda Swinton and Angelina Jolie know French, referring to the imperial insignia of the Eat that we don't? That one of the hottest new Haute Bonaparte family). Couture Houses in Paris is Anne Valérie Hash. Her The care with which every morsel is prepared inspiration came from her father’s closet. Ripping and served is evident in the attentive wait and out seams and making his clothes into dresses sommelier staff, who anticipate our every need or pantsuits with exterior pockets and exposed in this gourmet restaurant overlooking the zippers, she learned to use fabric and style to hotel garden. Chef Phillippe offers his signature juxtapose the masculine with the feminine. This L’ABEILLE “essential cuisine,” creative modern variations 11-year-old house of fashion is actually located in We have the pleasure of meeting the hotel's on classic French dishes. There are two amuse a remarkable space built in 1880 as a grand hotel executive chef, Philippe Labbé, at the Marche bouches, and what follows is an explosion of and restaurant. The colorful graffiti on the outside President Wilson, a farmer’s market, which is a flavor that awakens every sense. Unexpected of the building gives no indication of the opulent block away. I cannot get enough of the exqui- pairings such as pear and lime, vanilla and basil, secrets unfolding inside. It’s no wonder AVH is so sitely arranged produce in the marketplace and delight the palate. Perfectly paired Champagnes inspired, as the building itself has a storied past. the people who grow it. As I stare at the women, and wines enhance each unique course. The If you have been to Istanbul and seen the Hagia resplendent in high heels and jewelry, I envision green market beets show up on my plate, Sofia, you will think that AVH is perhaps its very a "Housewives of Paris" spinoff. transformed by the chef's creativity in spring tiny baby sister. After WWI, the hotel and The chef introduces us to his beet grower, colors that are so beautiful it reminds me of a LEFT Beets from the farmer's market, Marche restaurant were shuttered as the area whose farm is eight kilometers (about five Cezanne still life I saw earlier in the day at the President Wilson, end up on a plate at L'Abeille; declined. Opened later as a salon for miles) from the center of Paris. The grower newly renovated Musée D'Orsay. ABOVE sumptuous candles from Franck et Fils German soldiers, then converted to a explains that one of his favorite pastimes When I return to my room, I find a note from synagogue and finally occupied by an is learning to grow new varieties. Clearly, it the chef printed on a card that reads, "Nostre African cult, you can feel the history requires patience. It took him two years to chef Phillipe Labbé, a selectionne pour vous when you take in the room. The mosaic find the right way to nourish a variety of black ces mandarins de Samson doux et savoureux.” and gilded receiving area is spectacular. radish that he imported. My rusty high school Translation: Our executive chef has personally The Spring Collection's surprising coral ABOVE The glorious receiving French misses some of the translation, but selected these seasonal sweet and tasty tanger- and blue pallette is a departure from the area at Anne Valérie Hash; even so, listening to ines for you. I am delusional elegant neutrals of previous collections LEFT A colorful patchwork someone who is so enough to believe it’s true. and we are lucky enough to spy a couch at Merci passionate about his Shop No wonder the sampling of the new line. job is a pleasure in any Shangri-La is now home language. It's delight- to two Michelin starred MADEINUSED ful to be able to view restaurants, L’Abeille and Madeinused oozes creativity. Vic the ingredients that the authentic fine dining FRANCK ET FIls Caserta spent a career collecting and will make their way Chinese restaurant Shang Franck et Fils is like a Parisian version of Henri archiving more than 60,000 pieces of into my five-course Palace – the first Paris hotel Bendel in the days of yore. Before Barney's clothing, fabric and accessories. to receive such an honor. was a chain and catered to the stylish offspring Creating the ultimate “green” store, he of wealthy parents, Franck et Fils was offering repurposes and fuses pieces in unique a unique shopping experience here in the ways. A cashmere sweater sewn into army linen sheet selection in a muted rainbow 16th arrondissement. When Nicolas, the pants converted to a skirt? The provocative art of wheat, musty pink, eggplant, rich grays, manager, assures me that the 27-year-old that lines the wall (primarily painted by his and soft greens inspires me to want to buy THE GREEN MARKET Maxime Simoens, who recently left his post father) matches the eccentricity of the space. If every color. as creative director at the house of Leonard, you believe in giving elegant clothing a I already love everything about this ALLEZ! BEETS SHOW UP ON MY is the up-and-coming designer, I believe him. metamorphosis, head over to this mini jewel of concept store when I discover that this PLATE, TRANSFORMED (Rumors at press time are that Simoens will a store and don’t miss the lower level to is the firstmagasin solidaire in France, or be Yves Saint Laurent’s successor at Christian explore the rest of the interesting collection. charity store. Marie-France Cohen and her BY THE CHEF'S Dior). But if I need proof, Nicolas holds up one husband, who started Bonpoint 30 years ■ STAY :: For information on the Shangri-La CREATIVITY IN SPRING black dress that is the single remaining item in MERCI ago, convinced designers to create unique Hotel, Paris, visit the hotel’s website. Simoen's sold-out collection. Come here for hip Thankfully, Tony, Shangri-La's head concierge, items at 30-40% below price points in :: shangri-la.com/paris COLORS THAT ARE SO clothes and shoes, sample some products from directs me to my new favorite store on Earth. their own stores, so that all profits could ■ SEE :: Musée D’Orsay :: musee-orsay.fr/en their new in-house organic face cream line, Opened in 2009, with only 12 reviews on Google be donated to helping women and children BEAUTIFUL IT REMINDS Architecture Museum :: Absolution, and grab a fabulous coffee table when I checked, I walk up to this magnificent in Madagascar. Had I known this, I would citechaillot.fr/en ME OF A CEZANNE STILL book or home candle specially selected for courtyard and enter my ideal store (and home). have bought much more. Stop by, read a Fashion Museum :: galliera.paris.fr LIFE I SAW EARLIER IN their collection.
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