Index to Academy Oral Histories Earl Luick

Home , Gold Diggers of Broadway, I Loved a Woman, Madonna of Avenue A

Earl Luick (Costume designer) Call number: OH166

Academy Awards, 29, 232, 237 Adrian, 8, 10-13, 16, 20, 33, 39, 45, 50, 64-65, 78, 139, 147, 150, 218, 222-223, 235 Anderson, John Murray, 210-211 Anderson, Milo, 18, 27, 74 André-Ani, 16, 39, 165 antiques, 62-63, 119, 145-146, 159, 167, 205, 237-240 Arliss, George, 7, 20, 83-84, 92, 99, 215, 219 Astor, Mary, 19, 89-90, 104, 106, 118, 120 Aubusson, Chrystian, 62-63, 201, 205, 239-240

Bakst, Leon, 16, 65 Balenciaga (clothing), 177, 224 Banky, Vilma, 13 Banton, Travis, 9, 13, 28-29, 34, 44, 50, 139, 200 Barrymore, John, 84, 95-96, 101, 118, 170, 207-210 Beaton, Betsey, 214 Bennett, Constance, 44-45, 49, 98 Bennett, Joan, 20, 42-43, 54, 75, 83, 96, 98, 112, 117, 135, 166, 201 Bennett, Marcella see Rabwin, Marcella Bennett Bergdorf-Goodman (department store), 32, 51, 61, 66, 123, 140-141, 179, 216 BERKELEY SQUARE (1933), 18, 113 Bernstein, Aline, 169-170 THE BLACK SWAN (1942), 102, 176 Blankenhorn, Emma, 153, 166 BLONDE CRAZY, 186 Blondell, Joan, 109, 122, 186-187 BONNIE AND CLYDE, 232 Brice, Fanny, 52-53, 85, 107, 150 BRIDE OF THE REGIMENT, 7-8, 81, 99 BRIGHT LIGHTS (1925), 109, 183 The Broadway (department store), 8, 25, 38 BROADWAY BAD, 23, 122-124 Brooks, Louise, 108 Brown, Miss see Garbo, Greta Brown, Gilmore, 166-167 Bullock’s Wilshire (department store), 38-39, 154-155, 198-199 Busby, Marcus, 57, 222 Cagney, James, 26-27, 100

Calthorp, Gladys, 72 Campbell, Alan, 196-197 Carnegie, Hattie, 54, 197-200, 234 see also Hattie Carnegie (clothing) Cassini, Igor (Cholly Knickerbocker), 228-229 Cassini, Oleg, 136, 228 CAVALCADE, 11, 18-19, 23, 29, 33-35, 52, 58-60, 71-76, 113, 116, 118, 124-126, 128, 175, 181, 192, 204, 210, 213, 215, 236-237 Ceballos, Larry, 57 Chandler, Helen, 96, 103 Chanel (clothing) 20, 42, 66, 172, 175, 200-201, 224-225 Chatterton, Ruth, 34, 166 Cholly Knickerbocker see Cassini, Igor Chouinard Art Institute (Los Angeles), 190 Christian Dior (clothing), 56, 64, 69, 176-178, 223-224, 234 Claire, Ina, 225 Clarke, Gilbert, 165, 225 Cohn, Harry, 41, 109 Colbert, Claudette, 44 Columbia Pictures, 40-41, 172, 200, 222 Compson, Betty, 87, 91 A CONNECTICUT YANKEE (1931), 57 Costello, Dolores, 207-208 Costume design beads and beading, 36, 45-46, 73-75, 87, 130, 193, 226 bias cutting (en bias), 33, 68, 109, 121, 191-192, 211 brassieres, 43, 60, 112, 121, 191, 201 budgets, 60-61 hatmaking, 17, 23, 37, 83, 230-231 hemlines, 176-177, 206, 238-239 men’s costumes, 23, 26 period costumes, 8-9, 18-19, 26, 32, 65, 72-74, 79, 83-84, 91, 99, 122, 135, 145, 191-193 shoes, 18, 56, 62, 186, 202, 215, 232 shoulder pads, 64-65 use of fabric brocade, 35, 76 buckram, 17, 202 lamé, 35, 49, 204-205, 238 metal cloth, 49 moiré, 193 satin, 33, 35, 57, 68, 90, 92, 121, 203, 211, 214, 220 shantung, 203 silk, 43, 66, 114, 203, 238 velvet, 30, 35-36, 67, 92, 95, 164, 203-204, 238

use of fur chinchilla, 34, 160 kolinsky, 34-35, 160-161 mink, 34-35, 44, 75, 160-161, 198 sable, 34-35, 44, 161 wardrobe stills, 6, 11, 14, 44, 209-210 wartime conservation of fabrics, 48-49, 75 Coward, Noël, 18, 71, 136-137, 204 Cox, David, 225-226 Crawford, Joan, 33, 45, 64-65, 80, 226

Daché, Lilly, 230 Dagover, Lil, 110-111 Daniels, Bebe, 21-22, 104-106 Danilova, Alexandra, 171 Davenport, Dorothy, 36, 78 Davis, Bette, 7, 19, 27, 71, 80, 107, 111-112, 166, 219 Dazian's (fabric sellers), 204, 210-211 de Costa, Mercedes, 119-120, 187 de Lima, Josette, 173-174 Del Ruth, Roy, 98, 189 DeMille, Cecil B., 9-11, 13, 26, 37-38, 44, 105, 114-115, 147, 152, 154, 166, 168, 218-219 THE DESERT SONG, (1929), 17, 79-81, 150 DISRAELI, 20, 26, 83-84 Dryden, Ernest, 63, 138-139, 172-173 Duff Gordon, Lady see Lucille Duncan, _____, Mrs., 38, 154-155, 191, 217, 236 Eilers, Sally, 75 Eldridge, Florence, 89-90 Eugene, OR, 5-6, 15, 113 EVERY DAY’S A HOLIDAY, 225

Fairbanks, Douglas Jr, 44-45, 96 Fashion Originators Guild of America, 182 Fazenda, Louise, 81 88, 91, 112 Ferguson, Elsie, 97 First National, 19, 22, 24, 27, 30, 32, 44, 50, 58-59, 70, 75, 79, 88, 90-91, 99, 111, 118, 166, 168, 183-184, 190, 209, 216, 229 see also Warner Bros. FLO-FLO, THE PERFECT THIRTY-SIX (play), 85 Fontaine, Joan, 102-103 FOOTLIGHT SERENADE, 130, 132, 163, 193 Fox, Willy (dressmaker), 180, 238

Francis, Kay, 18-19, 71, 90, 110-111, 118, 122, 160 Frederick, Pauline, 17, 79, 97 Fredericks, John (hat designer), 230 Friedlander, Emil, 72, 204 Fryer, Elmer, 209-210

Gable, Clark, 52, 168, 215 Garbo, Greta, 16, 45, 62-63, 80, 119-120, 137, 152, 187 Gateson, Marjorie, 195 GENERAL CRACK, 84, 89, 127-128, 192 Gibbons, Irene see Irene Gilbert, John, 93-94 Gimbel's (department store), 55 Gish, Lillian, 41-42 Givenchy, Hubert de, 224, 232 GOD’S GIFT TO WOMEN, 108 GOLD DIGGERS OF BROADWAY, 17-18, 81, 86, 93, 110, 149, 226 GOLD DIGGERS OF 1933, 18, 225-226 GOLD DUST GERTIE, 93, 101-102 Goldwyn, Samuel, 20, 29, 172-173, 222, 225 GONE WITH THE WIND, 64, 170, 174-175 Goudal, Jetta, 13, 151-152 Grable, Betty, 75, 121, 130-132, 163, 193 Grant, Cary, 144, 215-216 THE GREEKS HAD A WORD FOR THEM, 175, 225 THE GREEN GODDESS (1930), 26, 84, 92 Green, Alfred E., 101 Greer, Howard, 9, 13, 28-29, 50, 62-63, 119, 139, 142, 187-189, 206, 222, 231 Guinan, Texas, 89, 107

Hamilton, Peggy, 14, 66, 71, 163-164, 221 Harlow, Jean, 47, 68, 109, 121 Harris, Mildred, 104-106 THE HATCHET MAN (1932), 19, 22, 111 Hattie Carnegie (clothing), 54, 200, 234 see also Carnegie, Hattie Hays office, 42-43 Head, Edith, 28-29, 34, 50, 142, 190, 236 HEARTS IN EXILE, 208 Heath, MacDonald, 144, 216 Hepburn, Katharine, 80, 117, 125, 174 HER MAJESTY, LOVE, 7, 91 The Hollywood Bowl (Los Angeles), 9-10 Hollywood Kept Me in Stitches (autobiography), 112, 151, 160, 217

HONKY TONK (1929), 84-85, 150, 157 HONOR OF THE FAMILY, 21-22, 105 HOT PEPPER (1933), 22-23, 124 House, _____, 11-12, 147 House of Worth (clothing), 147-148, 224 see also Worth, Charles Frederick THE HOUSE ON 56th STREET, 19, 111, 122 Hubert, René, 227 Hughes, Gareth, 206-207

I LOVED A WOMAN, 19, 111, 122 I Magnin & Co. (department store), 25, 54, 104, 236 Ile de France (ship), 142, 173, 235 Inescort, Freida, 92, 102 Irene (Gibbons), 39, 51

Jean Louis, 40-41, 199, 205, 229 Jeans, Ursula, 33, 35, 76

Kalmus, Natalie, 21, 35, 162, 225 Karinska, Madame, 16 Kaufman, Brownie, 180-181 Kaufman, Rita, 53-54, 181, 198, 236 Kiam, Omar, 29, 55-56, 175, 182, 229 THE KING OF KINGS (1927), 8-9, 11, 13, 15, 37, 78, 112, 115, 128, 147, 149, 207 King, Carlotta, 80, 150 King, Henry, 102, 175-176, 189 Koenig, William, 18-21, 38, 57-58, 60, 69-70, 87, 91, 118, 126, 130, 132, 154, 157, 163, 187, 219-220

L-85 (War Production Board Regulation on Fabric (1942), 48 LADY KILLER, 19 Landi. Elissa, 35-36, 43, 116, 126, 231 Lang, Walter, 36, 78, 152 THE LAST FLIGHT, 19, 103 THE LAST OF MRS. CHEYNEY (1929), 221-222 Lee, Lila, 82, 85, 157 Leisen, Mitchell, 10, 38, 147, 160, 218 LeRoy, Mervyn, 32 LETTY LYNTON, 33, 64 THE LIFE OF THE PARTY (1930), 93, 110 Lightner, Winnie, 17-18, 53, 67, 82, 93, 102, 107-110, 149-151, 189, 198, 209 Lillie, Beatrice, 197-198 Lloyd, Frank, 18, 36, 113, 124, 214-215

Logan, Jacqueline, 11, 78 Lombard, Carole (Jane Peters), 80, 133-134, 168 Los Angeles, 6, 8-9, 14, 25, 28, 31, 39, 47, 64, 69, 114, 119, 131, 148, 167, 188, 190, 203- 205, 213, 221, 235-236, 240 Los Angeles Times (newspaper), 14, 18, 57, 163, 221-222 Louis Vuitton (leather goods), 179-180 Loy, Myrna, 7-8, 80, 86, 150 Lucile (Lady Duff Gordon), 72, 132, 165, 229 Luick, Audrey, 47 Luick, Dorothy, 47 Luick, Earl early life, 5-7 education, 14-15, 113, 191 first job (with Maurice Rentner), 30-31, 142 leaves Los Angeles, 31, 56, 235 draft status, 132 mother, 5-6, 9, 11, 132, 146, 191, 203 moves to New York, 11, 19, 30-32, 40 trips to Paris, 31, 69, 142-144 partner (Chrystian Aubusson), 62-63, 201, 205, 240-241 work at Warner Bros./First National, 19, 22, 30, 32, 50, 58-59, 70, 75, 79, 90-91, 111, 118, 166, 168, 183-184, 190, 229 work at Twentieth Century-Fox, 22-23, 42, 46, 50-59, 74-75, 78, 102, 108, 115-118, 122-127, 135-136, 145, 174-175, 184, 193, 195, 201, 213, 216, 219, 227-228 antique shop, 62-63, 119-120, 145, 159, 205, 239, 257 autobiography (Hollywood Kept Me in Stiches), 112 Lyon, Ben, 21-22, 105

Mackaill, Dorothy, 182-185, 194, 210, 212 MADONNA OF AVENUE A, 208 THE MALTESE FALCON (1931), 104-106 THE MAN FROM BLANKLEY’S, 36, 94-95 THE MAN WHO PLAYED GOD (1932), 7, 19, 22, 111, 219 Marsh, Marian, 100-101 Mary Quant (clothing), 232 MATA HARI (1931), 45, 152 THE MATRIMONIAL BED, 90 May Company (department store), 8, 25, 38 Mayer, Louis B., 93 McCardell, Claire, 173-174 McCrea, Joel, 183 McKenzie, N’Was, 24, 43, 216 Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM), 16, 21, 27, 33, 39, 45-46, 48, 51-52, 74, 93, 97, 117, 145, 152, 155, 162, 166, 175, 222-223, 226

Miller, Anna (designer), 75, 132 Miller, Marilyn, 7, 90-91, 125-126, 150 Milton, Robert, 96 Miranda, Carmen, 56-57, 186, 201-202, 219-220 Mitchell, Margaret, 170 MOBY DICK (1930), 96, 135 Monkey Village (Los Angeles), 10 Monteil, Germaine, 29-30, 55 Moore, Oscar, 17, 112, 142 Morrison, Kay, 190

New York Dress Manufacturers Guild, 234 New York Times (newspaper), 113, 233 Newman, Bernard, 51, 123 NIGHT NURSE (1931), 19, 104, 106-108 Nixon, Marian, 84, 86, 127, 192

O’Connor, Una, 52, 214 O’Hara, Maureen, 102, 133, 175-176 THE OFFICE WIFE, 183 ON TRIAL (1928), 17, 79 ON WITH THE SHOW! (1929), 86-89, 109, 128, 150 ONCE IN A LIFETIME (1932), 24, 212-213 Oregon, 5-6 Orry-Kelly, 19, 27, 61-62, 74, 107, 129, 218-219 OUTWARD BOUND (1930), 96, 127

Palm Beach (FL), 181, 239 Pantages, Lloyd, 167 Paramount Pictures, 10, 26, 28, 50-51, 88, 90, 97, 115, 142, 156, 160, 167, 171, 200, 206, 226, 236 Paris (France), 31, 33, 49, 64-65, 68-69, 103, 142, 144, 147-148, 188, 192, 199-200, 212, 224-225, 230, 232, 234, 240 Parker, Dorothy, 195-197 Pasadena (CA), 166-167 Pasadena Playhouse, 123-124, 153, 166 PASSPORT TO HELL, 22, 116 Pennington, Ann, 17-18, 82, 149 Peters, Jane. see Lombard, Carole Photoplay (magazine), 14 Pigott, Tempe, 52-53 Pitts, ZaSu, 104 Plunkett, Walter, 27, 61, 99, 174 Politz, Herman, 24, 212, 218

Potter, Pauline, 200 THE PUBLIC ENEMY (1931), 19, 26-27, 108-109

Rabwin, Marcella Bennett, 154-155, 174 Rand, Sally, 112-113 Randall, Florence, 164-165 Randall, Tony, 164-165 THE RECKLESS HOUR, 183-184 THE REDEEMING SIN (1929), 208 Rée, Max, 49-50, 171-172 Rentner, Maurice, 30-31, 56, 129, 140, 142, 238 Reubens, Alma, 221-222 Rhodes, Leah, 229 Richardson, Frank (costume designer), 50, 142, 236 RKO Radio Pictures, 27, 50-51, 61, 74, 117, 123, 158, 171-172, 174, 227, 231 Robinson, Edward G., 94, 100, 111 Rocket, Al, 91, 126, 213 Rogers, Ginger, 51, 122-123, 174, 195, 197 Rose, Helen, 48, 130-131, 227 Royer, 59, 172

SAFE IN HELL, 19, 183 SALLY, 90, 150-151 SATIN WOMAN, 78 Saturday Evening Post (magazine), 57, 219-220 SCARLET PAGES, 97, 127 Schiaparelli, Elsa, 65, 224 Segal, Vivienne, 7-8, 98-99, 150-151, 194 Seiter, William, 36, 99 Selznick, David O., 154, 172, 174-175 Shannon, Roger, 55-56 Sharaff, Irene, 47-48, 51, 169-170 Sheehan, Winfield, 125-126, 154, 213-214 Shoup, Howard, 27, 61 SHOW OF SHOWS, 52-53, 86, 88, 93, 110, 127, 150, 208 Siebert, _____, Mrs., 38, 154-155 Skinner Silks (fabric seller), 203 Smith, Queenie, 102-103 SO BIG (1932), 19, 107-108, 191 SPRINGTIME IN THE ROCKIES, 25, 56-57, 134, 291-202 Stanwyck, Barbara, 19, 99, 106-108, 118 Stevenson, Edward, 27, 50, 158, 231 SUNNY (1930), 91, 126 Swanson, Gloria, 221-222

SWEET KITTY BELLAIRS (1930), 161-163, 191

Tashman, Lilyan, 17-18, 21, 31, 82, 93, 149 Technicolor, 20-21, 35, 161-162, 225 Tierney, Gene, 135-136, 228 Todd, Thelma, 104, 225 Traphagen School of Fashion (New York)), 28 Tree, Dolly, 42, 102 Triangle Film Corporation, 222 Trigère, Pauline, 200, 238 Tucker, Sophie, 53, 85, 150, 157 Twentieth Century-Fox, 22-23, 42-46, 50-59, 71, 74-75, 78, 101-102, 108, 115-118, 122- 125, 127, 133, 135-136, 141, 145, 152, 168, 174-175, 184, 193-196, 198, 201, 213, 216, 219, 227-228, 231

Universal Pictures, 16, 24, 32-33, 150-152, 155, 169, 213 University of Oregon, 14-15, 113, 191

Vanity Fair (magazine), 7, 116-117 Veléz, Lupe, 22-23, 123-124 VIENNESE NIGHTS, 79-80, 98-99, 151 Vionnet, Madame, 66-69, 180, 189 Vitagraph Pictures, 58-59

Wakeling, Gwen, 11-13, 59, 78, 147, 231 Walker, June, 195-196 WAMPAS stars, 84 Warner Brothers Presents (book), 7, 17, 79, 88, 101, 118, 135, 169, 208 Warner, Jack, 24, 45, 156, 183, 186, 212 Warner Bros., 7, 17-19, 22-27, 30-31, 44, 46, 49-50, 57-59, 61, 67, 70, 78-79, 85-86, 110- 111, 118, 127, 129, 135, 154-157, 160, 164, 167-168, 183-186, 191, 208, 213, 216, 219, 222, 229 see also First National THE WARRIOR’S HUSBAND, 35-36, 78-79, 116-117, 171 Waters, Ethel, 53, 86-89 Watson and Son (tailors, Los Angeles), 215-216 Welford, Nancy, 81-82, 149 West, Clare, 16, 169 Western Costume Company, 9-10, 149 Williams, Lambert, 54, 236 Wilson, Lois, 17, 79, 157 Withers, Grant, 94 Wolfe, Thomas (American novelist), 169-171 THE WOMAN FROM MONTE CARLO, 110-111

Wood, Yvonne, 227-228 Woodbury University (Los Angeles), 28 THE WORLD CHANGES, 19, 32, 118 Worth, Charles Frederick, 224 Worth, Jacques, 147 see also House of Worth Wright, Cobina, 193-195 Wright, Cobina Jr., 193-194 Wynyard, Diana, 76-77, 215

Young, Loretta, 19, 31, 36, 52, 58, 68, 86, 94-95, 111, 127, 168, 200, 203

Zanuck, Darryl F., 23, 69, 110, 135, 185, 208-209 ZOO IN BUDAPEST, 23, 126127, 128