541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page i Washington, D.C. from $80 a Day 12th Edition by Elise Hartman Ford Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page ii About the Author Elise Hartman Ford has been a freelance writer in the Washington, D.C., area since 1985. Her writing has appeared in the Washington Post; Washingtonian maga- zine; the London-based Bradman’s North America Guide; The Essential Guide to Business Travel; Ladies’ Home Journal; and other national, regional, and trade publi- cations. In addition to this guide, she is the author of Frommer’s Washington, D.C.; Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Washington, D.C.; and Unique Meeting, Wedding, and Party Places in Greater Washington. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. 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ISBN 0-7645-4128-5 Editor: Jennifer Moore Production Editor: Donna Wright Cartographer: John Decamillis Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Capitol Building, evening Back cover photo: White House For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Washington, D.C. 1 1 The Best of Washington, D.C., on a Budget 3 1 Frommer’s Favorite Free & Site Seeing: The Best Affordable Washington Washington Websites . .8 Experiences . .3 3 Frommer’s Best Dining Bets 2 Frommer’s Best Budget on a Budget . .8 Hotel Bets . .6 2 Planning an Affordable Trip to Washington, D.C. 12 1 The Washington from 6 Travel Insurance . .31 $80 a Day Premise . .12 7 Health & Safety . .32 2 72 Money-Saving Tips . .13 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .33 3 Visitor Information . .21 9 Planning Your Trip Online . .38 Destination: Washington, Frommers.com: The D.C.—Red Alert Checklist . .22 Complete Travel Resource . .40 4 Money . .23 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . .40 5 When to Go . .25 11 Getting Here . .42 Washington Calendar 12 Recommended Reading . .51 of Events . .26 3 For International Visitors 53 1 Preparing for Your Trip . .53 3 Getting Around the 2 Getting to the United States . .59 United States . .60 Fast Facts: For the International Traveler . .61 4 Getting to Know Washington, D.C. 66 1 Orientation . .66 2 Getting Around . .75 The Neighborhoods in Brief . .73 Fast Facts: Washington, D.C. .81 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 Accommodations You Can Afford 84 1 Capitol Hill/The Mall . .85 6 Dupont Circle . .100 Family-Friendly Hotels . .87 7 Foggy Bottom . .103 2 South of the Mall . .90 8 Georgetown/Glover Park . .106 3 Downtown, East of 9 Woodley Park & 16th Street NW . .90 Points North . .108 4 Downtown, 16th Street 10 Suburban Maryland . .109 NW & West . .94 11 Suburban Virginia . .111 5 Adams-Morgan/North 12 Long-Term Stays . .111 Dupont Circle . .96 6 Great Deals on Dining 114 1 Restaurants by Cuisine . .115 5 U Street Corridor . .134 2 Capitol Hill . .117 6 Adams-Morgan . .135 Dining at Sightseeing Great Places to Picnic . .138 Attractions . .118 7 Dupont Circle . .140 3 Downtown, East of 8 Foggy Bottom/West End . .146 16th Street NW . .120 9 Georgetown . .149 Vegetarian Times . .128 10 Glover Park . .155 Family-Friendly Restaurants . .130 11 Woodley Park . .156 4 Downtown, 16th Street NW & West . .131 7 Exploring Washington, D.C. 158 Suggested Itineraries . .159 Museums of Special Interest . .200 Call Ahead . .163 7 Other Attractions . .204 1 The Three Houses of Walking Tour: Historic Government . .163 Homes Near the White 2 The Major Memorials . .171 House . .208 3 The Smithsonian Museums . .178 8 Just Across the Potomac: Arlington . .213 Museum Exhibits Scheduled for 2004 . .184 9 Parks & Gardens . .215 4 Elsewhere on the Mall . .190 10 Especially for Kids . .219 5 Other Government Agencies . .193 11 Organized Tours . .220 6 More Museums . .195 12 Outdoor Activities . .223 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page v CONTENTS v 8 Shopping 225 1 The Shopping Scene . .225 3 Shopping A to Z . .227 2 Great Shopping Areas . .226 Museum Shopping . .242 9 Washington, D.C., After Dark 244 1 Free & Almost-Free Late-Night Bites . .262 Entertainment . .245 4 The Bar Scene . .264 2 The Performing Arts . .251 Cheap Eats: Happy Hours Washington Celebrates to Write Home About . .266 Tennessee . .254 Arlington Row . .268 3 The Club & Music Scene . .257 10 Side Trips from Washington, D.C. 271 1 Mount Vernon . .271 Biking to Old Town 2 Alexandria . .274 Alexandria & Mount Vernon . .279 Appendix A: Washington, D.C., in Depth 287 History 101 . .288 Dateline . .288 Appendix B: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 296 Index 298 General Index . .298 Restaurant Index . .306 Accommodations Index . .306 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page vi List of Maps Washington, D.C., Metropolitan Georgetown Dining 151 Area 43 Washington, D.C., Attractions 160 Washington, D.C., at a Glance 70 Capitol Hill 165 Major Metro Stops 76 The White House Area 169 Washington, D.C., The Mall 173 Accommodations 88 Walking Tour: Historic Homes Near Adams-Morgan, Dupont Circle & the White House 209 West End Accommodations 97 Washington, D.C., After Dark 246 Capitol Hill, Downtown & Foggy Bottom Dining 122 Old Town Alexandria 275 Adams-Morgan & Dupont Circle Dining 137 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Washington, D.C. from $80 a day, 12th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Washington, D.C. Frommer’s Washington, D.C. Frommer’s Portable Washington, D.C. The Unofficial Guide to Washington, D.C. 541285 FM.qxd 12/10/03 11:05 PM Page viii Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations.