©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Western

Why Go? Rakhaing State . . . . . 270 Travelling in Rakhaing (Arakan) State, bordering Bangla- Ngapali Beach ...... 270 desh and cut off from the rest of Myanmar by a 600-mile Thandwe ...... 274 long mountain range, almost feels like you’re in a diff erent country – which, in fact, it once was. The landscape is tropi- Sittwe (Akyab) ...... 275 cally lush, proud locals speak the Rakhaing language, the Mrauk U food comes with more chilli, and the mix of cultures refl ects (Myohaung) ...... 279 the Indian subcontinent. Around Mrauk U . . . . 286 Few tourists head this way and most who do confi ne Chin State ...... 287 themselves to the relaxing resorts of Ngapali Beach where the pristine sand is lapped by the turquoise waters of the Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung) . . . . .287 Bay of Bengal. The more adventurous head to the state’s scrappy, atmospheric capital Sittwe (Akyab) and the old Kalaymyo () . . 288 Rakhaing capital of Mrauk U (Myohaung), an amazing ar- chaeological site, studded with hundreds of temples. Looming to the north is elusive, underdeveloped Chin Best Places to State, a richly traditional area where travel requires govern- Stay ment permits, although it’s easy to get a taste of Chin life at riverine villages accessed on boat trips from Mrauk U. » Royal Beach Motel (p 272 ) » Pleasant View Resort (p 272 ) When to Go » Shwe Thazin Hotel (p277 ) Those wishing to risk the heat or rains outside the high » Mrauk U Princess Hotel season (November to March) will fi nd that downpours or (p 284 ) jellyfi sh will discourage much fun at Ngapali Beach. Sittwe and Mrauk U receive more rain than most of the country – about 200in per year. Sudden rainstorms during the mon- Best Places to Eat soon season (mid-May to mid-September) are dangerous if » Pleasant View Islet travelling by boat to Mrauk U, or between Sittwe and Taung- Restaurant (p 273 ) gok. Cyclones and tropical storms tend to occur just before » Gisspanadi (p 278 ) and after the rainy season. » Mondi stand (p 278 ) » Moe Cherry (p 285 ) Falam Ta Ze 269 Hakha Chin BANGLADESH d win Riv REGION er Ayadaw Gangaw Lotaw Chaung U CHIN STATE Tilin Myaing Yesagyo Matupi Myingyan Pauk Aungthabye Paletwa Mindat Pakokku Sami Mayu MANDALAY Taungbyo River Pindawa River REGION Lemro Kampelet Nyaung U Mt Victoria Old Bagan (Nat Ma Taung) Teknaf Buthidaung Mt Popa Maungdaw Kyauktaw Mahamuni Kyaukpadaung Chauk Meiktila Kaladan Chin Villages River Wethali Dalet 2 1 Mrauk U River Salin Kodangauk (Myohaung) Nang Gyar Donpauk Myaungbwe Sidoktaya Yenangyaung Ponnagyun WESTERN MYANMAR Minbya Boister Wabo RAKHAING Kyun Pauktaw (ARAKAN) STATE Minbu Sittwe Ann Magwe (Akyab) Thobagwin River Ngape Ayeyarwady Hanka Dalet Kandauntgyi Padan Taungdwingyi Bay Ann MAGWE Baronga Sakhanmaw Island REGION

Yebok River 2

Kyaukpyu Ma-ei River Mindon Sane Myayde Lamu Thayet Yinnbye River Kyun Ramree Isarbyin Manaung Taunggok Bay of (Taungup) Bengal Channel Paukkaung Manaung Taunggok River Sinte Manaung Pyay (Prome) Shwedaung Kyun Padaung BAGO 2 REGION 0 50 km Thandwe 0 30 miles Ngapali Beach Nattalin Lontha Myabyin Thabyugyaing Myan-aung I N D I A N O C E A N Andwe Kywe Kyaukkyi Thandwe Gyobingauk (Andrew Bay) River Kyeinthali Minhla Kyeintali Sitkwin River AYEYARWADY REGION Kanthaya Letpandon Gwa Hinthada

Western Myanmar Highlights 1 Lose yourself amid 3 Boat to Chin villages 5 Sort out a permit to hundreds of ruined temples (p 286) upriver from Mrauk U, climb Mt Victoria (p 287 ), the and fortifi cations in timeless where tattoo-faced women country's second-highest peak Mrauk U (p 279 ), former grand lead you around by the arm 6 Hire a jeep in Mrauk U capital of Rakhaing 4 Wander about one of and drive to Mahamuni Paya 2 Savour the squid and Myanmar’s most exotic (p 287 ), original home of one other seafood at beautiful scenes: Sittwe’s morning of Myanmar's most venerated Ngapali Beach (p270 ), central market (p275 ) images of Buddha Myanmar’s top beach destination