BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM

General Notes and Observations November 2014

Compiled by David Toyne

Candidate’s name: BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES Page 1

BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES

Table of Contents BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES ...... 4 1. Foreword ...... 4 2. Crew ...... 5 3. Notes on Type ...... 5 4. Equipment Needed...... 6 5. Assemble (Box Up) Boiler Ready For Filling ...... 6 6. Filling the Boiler ...... 7 7. Preparation ...... 8 8. Lighting Up ...... 8 9. Controls ...... 9 10. Oiling ‘round ...... 10 11. Boiler Management ...... 11 12. Static Operation of the Engine ...... 13 13. Moving the Engine ...... 14 a. Steering ...... 15 b. Roading ...... 15 c. Braking ...... 16 d. Shunting ...... 17 14. Putting the Engine to Bed ...... 19 a. Common principles ...... 19 b. Steaming the next day ...... 19 c. Parking up for some time ...... 19 15. Stop, Look and Listen ...... 20 Appendix 1 ...... 21 Emergencies – (Adapted from NTET CoC) ...... 21 Appendix 2 ...... 24 Water Gauge Glasses – (Adapted from NTET CoC) ...... 24 Appendix 3 ...... 25 Lubrication of Steam Engines – Valve and Lubrication ...... 25 Wet Steam ...... 25 Superheated Steam...... 25 Appendix 4 ...... 29 Selection of Oil for Steam Engines ...... 29 Appendix 5 ...... 32

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Occasional Running Troubles with Steam Engines ...... 32 Groaning ...... 32 Hot bearings ...... 32 Pounding and knocking ...... 34 Water in the cylinders ...... 35 Appendix 6 ...... 36 The Injector – Black art of the steam world! ...... 36 Appendix 7 ...... 39 Corrosion and causes of corrosion in – (Adapted from NTET CoC) ...... 39 Appendix 8 ...... 41 Boiler treatment and blowing down – (Adapted from NTET CoC) ...... 41 Appendix 9 ...... 43 Competency assessment record ...... 43

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BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES

1. Foreword These pages contain notes and observations on the safe operation of Road Steam Engines (RSE), in particular traction engines, steam rollers and their various variants.

There is quite often a significant difference between the operational characteristics of the various makes of RSE and even the various types within a specific make or type. These notes therefore should be seen as a guide only and not be construed as an operations manual for any specific engine. The general principles, however, apply to all RSE.

The information herein has been drawn from numerous sources including, inter alia, personal experience and observation, interviews, non copy write historical notes, modern technical accounts etc. The work is divided in to a main body and eight information appendices and one appendix dealing with the assessment of competency.

WARNING!! RSEs are potentially dangerous pieces of machinery, there are hot metal parts, scalding water and steam, and unguarded moving parts, extreme caution is needed at all times.

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BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES

2. Crew Most RSE will have a crew of two at any given time, nominally the driver and steersman. • This may vary given circumstances, e.g. when on static display • Note that the “driver” is the person controlling the engine, not steering it

3. Notes on Boiler Type RSE the subject of these notes, generally employ a “ Boiler”. That is a boiler which: • Is designed to be movable • has a single pass of gas from to chimney • Uses many small tubes to allow the gas flow from firebox to • Has exhaust steam from the engine directed up the chimney to create a draft for the fire As far as boilers go, it is highly efficient and one of the only designs that automatically increases steam generation proportional with steam use due to the engine exhaust being used to create draught for the fire. The harder the engine works, the greater the draft, and providing the fire is in good order and well managed, the greater the steam production. • Key o A = Tubes o B = Fire box tube plate o C = Front tube plate o D = Stay bar o E = Fire box stay o F = Fire bar o G = Fire box girder stay o H = Girder stay bolt o I = Fire hole door o J = Throat plate o K = Front Plate (back head) o L = Outer fire box (wagon top) o M = Mud door (wash out door, hand hole door) o N= Smokebox door o O = Damper o P= Foundation ring (“Z” ring in this case) o Q = Mud collector

K

I

K

Q

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NOTE that the illustration above does not include boiler safety devices, including safety valves, pressure gauge, water feed apparatus, feed check valves etc.

Let’s get started

4. Equipment Needed • shovel or foot plate dustpan • Access to water and a hose • Oil (Steam oil, bearing oil, grease if needed) • Oil cans • Rag for wiping down and for lighting up • Door joints • Fuel ( and/or coal) • Appropriate fire lighting kit (matches, diesel or kerosene, NEVER petrol or petrol mix) • Firing irons (poker and ash pan rake as a minimum) • Gloves • Long sleeve shirt and trousers made from cotton or wool, or cotton overalls • Tools (a set of appropriate spanners, hammers, screwdrivers, punches etc)

5. Assemble (Box Up) Boiler Ready For Filling Every locomotive type boiler used for RSEs will have a man hole in the boiler barrel and either mud holes (hand holes) or wash out plugs at the lower corners near the foundation ring and possibly the front tube plate. Each of these doors or plugs must be fitted and water tight prior to filling the boiler.

It is important that appropriate door joints are used as they are pressure rated. Ensure that the jointing material you select is appropriate for the pressure that the boiler operates at.

• Ensure that you have a door or plug for each mud hole along with its dog (bridge), washer and nut o Note that the washer is an important part of the assembly as it acts as a bearing, allowing the nut to be tightened without applying undue torsional torque to the dog. This is important as if the dog moves, the door may leak, or if under steam, may cause the joint to fail • You will also need (in most cases) an appropriate sized spanner and a pair of multigrips or large pair of pliers • When mud hole doors are used, it is usual for them to be marked as to which hole they fit o You will note that the door is oval in shape. This is so that it can be inserted into the boiler with the narrow dimension of the door passing through the broad section of the hole. o If they are not marked a trial fit without the joint maybe useful to determine where they might be best fitted o Be aware that any particular boiler may have a range of shapes and sizes of doors • Lay the doors out next to their hole • Inspect the door land and if necessary clean it with a wire brush • Feel the inside of the boiler land and if necessary clean it with a wire brush or scraper • Fit the joint to the door following the joint manufacturer’s instructions o Joints may take the form of a rubber style gasket, woven material, putty like tape or even lead. o Proprietary products include

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. Topog-e . Pre-Kev . Pilot Seal . Blue Max, amongst numerous others • Insert the door into the boiler and offer it up to the mating surface • Once it feels seated, hold the door by the stud (multigrips might be necessary depending on the length of the stud) and fit the dog, washer and nut • Whilst fitting the dog, washer and nut, keep outwards tension on the door in order to stop the gasket from slipping • Once the nut is started on the thread, you can hold the door by pulling against it by the nut as you tighten it with your fingers • Once the nut is hand tight, inspect the door and joint to see that it appears correctly seated. If needed, a light tap up/down/sideways with a piece of wood or a soft faced hammer may help • Tighten the assembly as per the joint manufacturers recommendations

If the boiler is fitted with wash out plugs as well as/instead of mud hole doors, then these should be fitted as this time as well. • See if the plugs are marked as to where they go, or if the plugs are of different sizes • Examine the threads on both the plug and socket and if they need cleaning, use a soft brush • Wrap several turns of high pressure Teflon tape around the plug and offer it up to the socket • Screw the plug in by hand until it is tight • Tighten it with an appropriate spanner to a firm, but not excessive torque

Once the mud hole doors or plugs have been fitted, the man hole door can be fitted

• The process is similar to fitting a mud hole door with the exception that the man hole door usually has two studs. It will also be considerably heavier than a mud hole door and care should be taken not to drop onto the tubes whilst fitting • Once again, follow the joint manufacturer’s recommendations as to how to install the joint and tighten it

6. Filling the Boiler Once the boiler is boxed up, it is time to fill it with water. • Identify the usual filling point for the boiler o This may be a plug on the man hole door or a plug on the boiler o In some instances it may be necessary to remove a boiler fitting, like the whistle, in order to fill the boiler • Ensure that the blow down cock is closed • Ensure that the gauge glass cocks are open to the boiler • Insert the filling hose and turn on the water supply • As the boiler fills, listen and watch for any leaks from the mud hole doors. If any are leaking, the may need to be gently re-seated o Gently tapping the mud hole door in different directions to try to seat it o Nip up the nut slightly o Mud hole doors may take up as steam is raised, or they may leak worse. This tends to be somewhat boiler specific o Man hole doors will not take up as steam is raised and will always leak worse as the pressure increases

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• It will take some time for the water to show in the gauge glass, but once it does, it will raise reasonable quickly • Once the water is visible, monitor the water level until it is approximately 1/3 to ½ of a glass • Turn off the water, remove the hose • If it is usual to use some form of boiler treatment in the boiler water, this is the time it would usually be put in • Refit the plug or fitting • If the tender is empty, now is a good time to fill it

7. Preparation These notes assume that the engine has been previously put together for steaming • Walk around the engine o Make sure it is clear of obstructions and is securely chocked o Check that all mud and manhole doors are water tight o Remove the chimney cap if fitted o Check inside the smokebox to see there has been nothing left inside o If necessary, sweep the tubes • Climb onto the footplate o Ensure the reversing lever is in mid , the regulator is closed, the cylinder drains are open and the engine is out of gear o Open the fire hole door, if necessary, riddle through the fire bars any ash or clinker o If necessary, rake the ashpan o If necessary, clean the gauge glasses and gauge glass protectors so that the water level can be easily seen o Ensure that gauge frame steam and waterway cocks are turned on o Open and close the gauge frame drain cocks and watch the action of the water in the glass (it should drop when the cock is opened and return to level when closed) o If there is sufficient water in the glass, the engine can be prepared for lighting up . Most engines will be safe to light up with 1/3 to ½ a glass of water, although this may vary with any particular engine. . A guiding principle is that there should be sufficient water to steam the engine, to get it to a pressure where the injector or pump can be tested, and if it is found that both are faulty, to let the fire go out and get steam down to zero, still leaving water visible in the glass. o If there is not enough water to safely light up the engine, water must be added to the boiler by hose through an appropriate filling point, which will vary from engine to engine. o Check the amount of water in the tender, and fill if necessary.

8. Lighting Up Ensure there is plenty of dry kindling, small logs etc available for initial lighting up • Take some clean rags, and if possible, wrap them around the gauge glasses o This will prevent the glasses being covered in soot when the engine is first lit up • Take some old oily rag, tie it into knots and place it on the footplate shovel or dustpan • Soak the rag in diesel (preferably) or kerosene, making sure it is soaked through • Diesel will not flare up like kerosene and will burn longer and hotter o NEVER use petrol or a mixture of petrol and (say) diesel or kerosene • Open the ashpan damper fully • Light the rag and make sure it is burning well • Reach into the firebox with the pan and drop the burning rag onto the centre of the grate

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• Place the first few pieces of kindling into the firebox, crisscrossing the burning rag • Once the first few pieces are starting to burn, throw a considerable amount more in on top o Throwing them in ensures a random placement and allows the fire to start to draw well • In addition, a few smaller logs can be thrown in • Close the fire hole door and leave the fire to take hold for a few minutes. • Inspect the fire again, and assuming it is starting to burn well, you can load the firebox with wood and if using coal, start to add small coal as well • Drop the damper to its first notch, or if it is very coarsely graduated (e.g. closed, half, full only) close it, and then put a small stick under the flap to provide a small amount of air o The principle is to warm the engine through, which is best done with a large, but slow burning fire. • The gauge glasses can now be uncovered • Check the fire every 10 to 15 minutes and keep the firebox reasonably full if using wood or if firing on coal, maintain a bright thin bed on the grate (say 100mm thick) • If this is the first time the engine has been steamed since it was put together, keep an eye on all of the boiler door joints as they may need seating or taking up • Drain the air from the boiler by leaving the injector steam cock, water lifter or whistle valve open, until steam is seen to issue from it. This helps remove oxygen from the boiler and reduces corrosion • It should take most engines about an hour to start to “sing” and about two hours to have enough steam to move. This will depend on the air temperature and if the engine is in the wind or still air • Keep a close eye on the engine as it warms up o Any persistent leaks from boiler doors may mean having to let the fire go out and re- making the joint o Listen for dripping water, indicating that there might be a leaking joint o Water may drip from the ashpan or smokebox. This is usually moisture from the fuel condensing on the cold boiler plate or tubes, but you should satisfy yourself that it is the case • Keep the footplate clean at all times by judicious use of the dustpan and brush • Put the can (note NOT plastic bottle) of cylinder oil on an appropriate place on the engine to warm through as the engine warms through • As the boiler gets to working pressure, ease the safety valves to ensure they are free and working

9. Engine Controls Whilst the engine is warming through, use some of the initial time to familiarise yourself with the location of the engine’s controls, and get a feel for how they move, length or throw, stiffness etc.

• These will include: o Regulator or starting valve o Reversing lever o Cylinder drain cock handle(s) o Gauge frame o Pressure gauge o Whistle o Hand brake o Gear change arrangements (and clutch if fitted) o “Simpling” valve if the engine is a compound

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o Pump controls o Injector steam and water cocks or valves o Boiler clack valves and cocks o Steering

10. Oiling ‘round

CAUTION! Oiling round, in most cases, will require climbing onto the engine foot board and being on top of a hot engine. Be aware of slipping and falling hazards and also touching hot engine parts

RSE, with very few exceptions, use a total loss lubrication system, relying mostly on wick feed, drip feed or just plain “squirt from a can” feed. This means that oiling the engine, or “oiling round” as it is known, is something that will be required several times per day, especially on moving parts that have a small oil reservoir or oil hole only. Parts with large reservoirs, like boxes, should only require looking at in order to see that they still have sufficient oil in them.

• You will need some or all of the following: o Steam oil (retrieve from its warming spot) o Bearing oil can(s) o Spanners to remove oil caps o Rag for wiping up oil spills o Gloves • Oil used on most engines eventually ends up lost as oiling points will typically be wick feed or simple oil holes, that start to feed oil as soon as they are filled o We minimise that loss by not oiling round until the engine is warm and is starting to come into steam. This will usually be in the second hour of raising steam from cold o A warm engine will help the oil flow into the areas needing lubrication, for example along pins • Only use proper STEAM OIL in the cylinder lubricator. It is designed to atomise in the steam and it will also emulsify with the condensed steam and maintain its lubricating properties. Compounded steam oil contains tallow for this purpose o Fill the lubricator to an appropriate level. Usually ¾ full is ample o Wind the manual feed handle a dozen or so revolutions to ensure there is plenty of oil in the feed line and steam chest o Observe that the oil drops through the sight glass whilst you are cranking it over • Steam oil may be used for most of the lubrication points on the engine if desired, but it is an expensive oil to use for this purpose • Most operators will have their own preference for bearing oil and for most lubrication points o Some owners may use different grades of oil for different lubrication points o The important factor is adequate lubrication, when and where required • Most RSEs will have between 25 and 50 oiling points, depending on the design of the engine • It is important that all of these points are identified o Some are critical, serious damage will be rapidly occasioned if they are not oiled o Some are less critical but premature wear will occur if not oiled regularly o Some will only require a drop of oil from time to time to ease working o ALL are important • If unfamiliar with the engine, have a regular driver show you over the oiling procedure, if possible • Always oil to a system, this minimises the possibility of missing an oiling point

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o One easy system is to start at the front top most oiling point and work back along the engine, oiling items in groups until you reach the . o For example oil the and its fittings, then the , then the weigh shaft, then the trunk guide and crosshead etc. o On reaching the crankshaft, change to oiling one complete shaft at a time, from one horn plate across to the other. This may lead to a plan something like: . RHS overhanging gear or pump drive (outside of the horn plate) . Main bearing . Pump eccentric . Big end bearing . Valve eccentrics . Gear teeth . Main bearing • Each shaft will have, as a minimum, bearings at each end • Don’t forget the axle boxes • All should be oiled • Any pins fitted with oil holes should be oiled as well • Having oiled everything on top of the engine, continue on the ground with things like steering gear, axle collars, differential pinions and gears etc. • Some owners may use grease for gear, steering gear or axle collar lubrication

11. Boiler Management See Appendix 1 for Information on Boiler Emergencies

Boiler management is an ongoing task from the time the fire is lit until the engine is put to bed and practically out of steam. There are a number of issues to understand and balance. These include:

• Safe boiler water level at all times o Remember this may drop suddenly as the engine goes from being level or facing uphill, to a downhill attitude and therefore needs to be planned for o Know the water level over the firebox crown at all times and be able to prove it at any time o Understand and operate the various boiler feed mechanisms • Adequate fire to generate the steam required for the near future o Remember, you need to plan ahead for your steam needs, be they heavy (e.g. soon going to tackle a hill) or light (e.g. parking the engine up shortly for public viewing) • Adequate boiler feed water available • Adequate fuel available

Safe boiler water levels vary from engine to engine and advice should be sought as to the appropriate level for any particular engine. As a rule of thumb, approximately 1/3 to ½ a glass is adequate. Bear in mind that if the engine is on the move, the water will surge along the boiler barrel and will move to the front if the engine goes down a slope. An accomplished engine driver will be able to judge how much water will be needed in the boiler to ensure that the firebox crown remains covered at all times. This will depend on the gradient, the length of the slope etc. Obviously having the water disappear out of the glass as the engine goes down a slope of a few metres is not the same scale of issue as having it disappear for some minutes as the engine negotiates a slope of several hundred metres.

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The water level might be considered safe, whilst descending a slope, if it can be seen in the very bottom of the glass or bobbing up and down in the bottom of the glass. On a steep downhill run, where the water is sometimes disappearing from the glass, surging the engine a little by applying the preferred braking mechanism for a couple of seconds and then releasing it will cause the water in the boiler to surge back and forth and keep the firebox crown covered most of the time. Closing the damper will also minimise the heat from the fire and hence any chance of damage to the firebox crown. . If the grade is steep enough that there is reasonable doubt as to whether the firebox crown can be kept covered for the full decent, as a last resort, turn the engine around and reverse down the hill. Ensure it is safe to turn the engine before doing so.

Overfilling the boiler, to maintain half a glass of water, prior to a descent can also be dangerous as it may cause the engine to prime, resulting in a potential run away or catastrophic engine damage. As a matter of course it is recommended that the drain taps be open when first opening the throttle at the bottom of a hill if there is any doubt about the water level not being high. For example at the bottom of a long hill where you have put a reasonable amount of water in the boiler during the descent

You must know the water level in the boiler at all times, and be able to prove it. Remember that the level shown in the glass may not be correct. If the steam way cock or passage is partially blocked, it may show half a glass when in fact there is a lot less. To help avoid this, apply the independent test at least once a day, and during the course of the day, close the steam way cock and open it smartly every hour or so. The water should spring to the top of the glass and then bob back down to its correct level. If the water moves slowly, then you may suspect a partially blocked steam way cock.

Maintaining a safe water level usually means having to regularly top up the boiler, as steam is used. The two main methods are by engine driven pump or by injector.

CAUTION! Ensure that the feed check valve isolating cock on the boiler is open prior to using either pump or injector. If it isn’t, then using the pump may cause damage to the engine, pump, pipe work or feed check valve. If using the injector, it will not pick up and feed the boiler.

Most pumps operate on a by-pass system, i.e. they are continually circulating water from the tender, back to the tender again, whilst ever the engine is running. In order to put water into the boiler, the by-pass valve or cock is closed thus forcing water into the boiler instead of the tender. The rate of feed can be regulated by partially closing the cock or valve. Indicators that the pump is operating normally include the delivery pipe to the boiler being quite cold right along to the clack valve and sometimes water weeping from the pump piston gland. Sticking non return valves on pumps should always be reported to the next driver if you are not the only driver.

The injector can be used with the motion work stationary, provided there is sufficient steam pressure for its use. Injectors vary widely in their operating pressures and it is best to seek advice from the engine owner or regular driver as to this and also any idiosyncrasies it might have. Generally, to operate and injector: • Open the water tap from the tender to the injector between half way and fully open • Open the injector steam valve about half way • If the injector doesn’t pick up immediately, throttle the water tap until it does • It is best to balance the injector so that the steam valve is as close to fully open as possible o This ensures that the water entering the boiler is at as high a temperature as possible, minimising thermal shock • Having noted the above, some injectors need to be operated in a particular way. The regular driver should be able to explain or demonstrate this if it is the case

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• Once the desired water level is reached, close the steam valve and then close the water valve

Management of the fire and steam production is also important. Adequate steam needs to be available when required. Conversely, if the engine is to sit simmering all day as a display only, then there is little point in maintaining a full head of steam, when, say, 50% of normal pressure will be sufficient. Remember that the safety valves are fitted to blow off excess steam pressure, not to indicate a full head of steam, which is what the pressure gauge is for.

If the engine is being fired with wood, then aim to keep the firebox close to full and regulate the fire with the damper. Closing the damper should see the fire die to almost black, but spring to life as soon as it is opened. If wood is damp or green a full firebox will provide some drying time before the wood burns at the base of the fire. If this is an issue – use the poker regularly to ensure that no holes develop in the fire. If you have the pressure to do it you are best to keep the damper shut when the engine is working heavily. The forced draft will lift cinders through the chimney possibly causing fire issues and you will burn your wood much faster with the damper open and engine under load. Load the fire and open the damper if steam is needed on the descent when possible. (Refer to notes above on steep descents).

Judicious use of the damper is important. It needs to be remembered that only 21% of the air needed for combustion is useful, i.e. oxygen. Most of the balance simply goes through the fire, cooling it, the firebox and tubes as it passes through them and up the chimney. There are very few occasions when there is any benefit to be gained by having the damper fully open. With a wood fire, ample air will usually be drawn through a half opened damper to promote good combustion whilst limiting the cooling effect of the balance of the air.

It is also important to open the fire door as little as possible, doing so only to inspect the fire and add fuel. This is particularly so if the engine is working. Air drawn through the fire door doesn’t pass through the grate and as such is relatively cold. It strikes the tubes and tube plate setting up thermal stresses in the boiler, which may lead to leaking tubes.

Ensure that there is adequate boiler feed water available for the foreseeable future. This usually means that there is sufficient water in the tender to meet the engine’s needs until it can reach a watering point or until the time that a water cart is expected to come around in the case of stationary exhibits.

As with water, make sure that there is enough fuel available for the planned activities, from now until the engine can be refuelled.

12. Static Operation of the Engine Before attempting to start the motion work, make sure that: • It is out of gear and the shift lever is pinned in position • The engine is unobstructed and can be turned over by hand • It has been adequately lubricated (oiled ‘round) and any drip oilers have been started • The cylinder drains are open to expel condensation • If there is an effective governor fitted, then it is advisable to ensure the is fitted to it prior to attempting to start the engine. o This is especially so if the engine is not well known to the driver o It may prevent the unloaded engine from racing and being damaged • Move the to bring the big end just above or below dead centre

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• Move the reversing lever to the full gear position either forward or reverse depending on where the crank has been set • Crack open the regulator and the engine should start to turn • Run the engine at a slow to moderate speed to allow it to warm through (say 50 rpm) • Leave the cylinder drains open until there is no visible condensate issuing from them, but in any event, a minimum of several minutes. o Note that the engine speed will increase when the drains are closed • Notch the engine up to its normal working position and adjust the regulator to give the required engine speed. Note that the engine should be run statically prior to moving so that it can be ascertained that the mechanical components are in sound condition and free from knocks and squeaks etc. In addition, the engine will turn over statically with much less steam than will be needed to move the engine. Typically 10 psi for a single cylinder engine.

13. Moving the Engine A RSE is a large and heavy piece of equipment. Typically they are not particularly manoeuvrable and if a canopy is fitted, can be difficult to see from. All this means it is essential that caution is used when moving the engine, especially in confined spaces (such as a shed or yard) or if there are people about. Quite apart from good practice, nothing will damage the ability of road engines to be continued to be used in public than a member of the public being injured, or damage being occasioned to roads, culverts etc. In order to move off, ensure that: • The motion work is stationary • The regulator is closed • The reversing lever is in mid gear • The cylinder drains are open Engage an appropriate gear, usually low gear by: • Removing the gear train locking pin or pins • Slide the gear into mesh o Note that it might be necessary to move the crankshaft around to allow the teeth to engage o If so, grasp the flywheel firmly and move it around a few inches until the gear slides in freely • Replace the locking pin(s) so that the gear cannot disengage • Replacing the pin is of paramount importance and may prevent a runaway engine or severe drive train damage Once the engine is in gear: • Remove the chocks from the engine’s • If fitted, release the handbrake • Move the reversing lever into full gear in the desired direction of travel • If needs be, move the flywheel it the direction of travel until it is just passed either dead centre • Blow the whistle to alert people nearby that the engine is about to be moved • Gently open the regulator and the engine should move off • If the engine doesn’t move away, it might need to be brought off a dead centre o If it is a compound, gently open the simpling valve until the engine moves off o If it is a single, close the regulator and move the reversing lever past mid gear o This should have the effect of moving the crankshaft, when the reversing lever can be moved back in the direction of travel and the regulator gently opened • Regulate the engine’s speed to the job at hand

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• Do not race the engine o All traction engines are approaching or are over 100 years old o They are typically slow revving steam engines o Usual maximum revs would be in the range of 150 to 200 RPM with some exceptions • Once underway, check that dry steam is issuing from the cylinder drains and if so, close them • Notch the engine up into its working position Stopping the engine it usually done by: • Closing the regulator • Bringing the reversing lever back towards and into the mid gear notch • Opening the cylinder drains

If leaving the footplate, ensure the engine’s handbrake is applied or that the engine is securely chocked

a. Steering Steering a RSE is not as easy as it looks, and due to the nature of the steering gear, very different to steering a motor vehicle. RSE steering is typically heavy and very slow to respond due to the number of turns of the steering required to effect reasonable movement at the front wheels. Of course, a similar number of turns will be required to bring the wheels to the straight ahead position again. It is an art that is reasonably easily mastered however, if a few things are borne in mind • Always point the front wheels where you want the engine to go o Do not worry about where the engine is pointing, it will follow the front wheels • If you are turning a corner and wait until the engine is pointing in the new direction of travel before starting to centre the steering, by the time the front wheels are centred, the engine will be well past the turn and will either have to be turned in the opposite direction, or reversed • If on the footplate alone, then steering can usually wait until the engine is in motion, avoiding the need for three hands • Most RSEs use a chain steering mechanism, which, by its nature, can allow the engine to wander o If travelling on the road, select a point in the distance and steer the engine at it o Do not be overly concerned at the engine’s small amount of wandering o If you try to correct the normal wandering, you will exacerbate the problem • When reversing, some steersmen find it easier to stand facing the direction of travel with the steering wheel behind them as opposed to facing forward and looking over their shoulder. It is a matter of “what works for you” • If travelling on a sealed road, try to keep the wheels off of the edge of the road. The high point loading of RSEs will usually break up the road edge • Avoid running over cats eyes as these do not usually survive an encounter with a RSE. Also avoid manholes and water main covers in the road with the rear wheels. • Where possible keep hard over to the left to allow traffic as much room as possible to get by.

b. Roading When driving on a public road, particular care, caution and diligence must be exercised • The engine must be appropriately registered and insured • The engine crew must be appropriately qualified

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• The engine should not be on the road after sunset unless it has modern lighting equipment fitted, including head lights and tail lights, in addition to any warning beacons. Given the slow pace of RSE compared to modern traffic, they might as well be stopped on the road. It is imperative; therefore, that ample warning should be given to other traffic, particularly traffic approaching from the rear, unless there are extremely good sight distances (say in excess of 250m). Measures that might be considered include: • Signposting the route to advise the public that large slow vehicles are on the road ahead • A vehicle following the RSEs with a flashing beacon and sign – Slow Moving Vehicle Ahead. This vehicle should park half off the road in places where it can be seen for some distance behind and it should then move forward periodically as for example the RSE clears the curves o This vehicle can also be used as a tender, carrying fuel and water • Flashing beacons on the rear RSEs • Keeping off of busy roads, unless those roads are wide, or have multiple lanes and good sight distances • Scoping out the route prior to moving off so as to plan for: o Passing places for traffic o Engine servicing stops o Crew refreshment stops Review the initial dot points under “Boiler Management and remember to plan for your steam needs and water needs well in advance) • Ensure you have a sufficient fire to be generating enough steam for the hill coming up • It is preferable to have sufficient water in the boiler to allow the engine to crest the hill without having to add any whilst going up it. o Depending on the length of the grade, this is not always possible o Adding water during the climb will reduce boiler pressure o Adding water towards the top of the climb is less of a problem as the engine will require less steam once on level going or a downhill grade • Make sure there is enough water in the boiler to allow the engine to level off at the top of the hill or to start the downhill run if that is the grade profile. o It may be necessary to stop to ensure there is sufficient water in the boiler. • Try to open the fire hole door as little as possible when the engine is working hard, as the draft created by the engine working hard will draw in large quantities of cold air.

c. Braking When driving on the road, it is important to have the RSE under control at all times. This means managing the engines speed and safely negotiating hills. Putting boiler management and maintaining a safe boiler water level to one side for the moment, being able to bring the engine to a stop, regardless of the grade of the road, or managing to traverse it at a safe speed is paramount. • Always make sure the engine is in an appropriate gear for the hill ahead o If in doubt, put the engine in low gear o Always chock the engine before changing gear o NEVER ATTEMPT TO CHANGE GEARS ON THE MOVE • With a four shaft engine, closing the regulator, opening the cylinder drains and moving the reversing lever towards mid gear should slow the engine sufficiently • If further retardation is required, move the reversing lever a little beyond mid gear • With a three shaft engine, the reversing lever may have to be moved fully to the opposite end of the quadrant to achieve the same braking effect • If the engine has an effective hand or flywheel brake, it can also be gently applied

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o Use extreme caution with a flywheel brake as it may generate excessive heat in the flywheel very quickly, which if unchecked, may damage it or cause it to disintegrate

d. Shunting Often a RSE will be used to haul a load, which might range from a light weight trailer to another engine. Coupling up to a load, moving an engine a few inches back, forward or to one side may not be an easy task. It takes skill (both on the engine and on the ground), patience and familiarity with the engine. To that end there is no substitute for practice, and practice with the specific engine you will be shunting with. If it is the normal engine you drive, then practicing will help make you a safe and skilled operator. If it is an engine you have never driven, whilst the skills are the same, some practice will be required to get the feel of the engine (amount of slack in the gears, response to the reverser etc.).

Practicing is best done in a suitable open space. Various methods can be used including placing markers on the ground just outside the rear wheels, moving the engine forward 10 metres, not necessarily in a straight line, then reversing up to bring the engine to a stand in the exact spot that it left from. Placing a stick in the ground at drawbar height and reversing up to it, stopping with the stick centred and the engine kissing it is also a good skill.

The driver and mate must work as a team, with the mate giving precise instructions as to where and how far the engine needs to move. “Back three feet, right hand down” lets the driver know exactly what he needs to do, as opposed “Back a bit, this way”. The driver would normally stop about a foot short to allow his mate to remove the drawbar pin and pick up the drawbar of the trailer. From here, the position of the engine for coupling can be assessed, and the angle of the trailer drawbar altered a little if needed and practical. The engine can be edged back and the pin dropped in.

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• NEVER place your fingers around a drawbar pin so as to have them between the pin and engine tender! If the pin is not fully home and the engine overruns, then you may lose them!

If the load is a heavy one, the trailer drawbar pointing in an awkward direction and there is insufficient manpower available to move it, then a short piece of chain or indeed the engine’s winch can be used to straighten it. Couple the engine to the trailer with the chain and move forward enough to bring the drawbar to the required angle. It should then be just a case of reversing straight onto the drawbar once the chain has been removed.

• REMEMBER, there is no way to brake the trailer when it is on a chain, so use this method only on level ground, or chock the rear wheels of the trailer before moving the drawbar

When using a push pole to move a load, always couple it to the front first. This might be the front of the load if the load is being pulled, or the front of the live engine, if the load is being pushed. This is done for a number of reasons: • To minimise the risk of injury o The front towing pintle on an engine is usually small and if it is being coupled to a dead load, and the engine over runs, it is possible for the push pole to spring out of the jaw with considerable force, which may injure the driver’s mate. o The rear drawbar on an engine is usually full width and so can contain the push pole should the engine overrun prior to the pin being sent home • It is easier for the driver to sight where the engine needs to be if the push pole is already connected to the front of the engine

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NEVER tow a dead engine using a chain or cable. There must be a rigid connection between the live and dead engine as the dead engine has a limited ability to brake if it needs to, to avoid running into the rear of the towing engine.

14. Putting the Engine to Bed At the end of the day’s activities the engine is “put to bed”. The way in which this is done differs depending on the future use of the engine, i.e. if it is going to be steamed again the next day or be out of steams for a few days or weeks. This section does not cover dismantling the engine for storage or inspection.

The time needed to let “steam down” will vary on the size of engine (its heat mass) and the air temperature. A small engine, like a , may only take 2 hours to be out of steam, whereas a large engine may take five or six hours.

a. Common principles • Park up the engine where it is to be stored whilst it still has sufficient steam to move about easily • Do not put an engine into an enclosed shed with a large fire in the firebox, let it die down first, there will still be plenty of steam to move the engine • Always close the damper when moving an engine in a shed to minimise the risk of emitting sparks and setting fire to something • Make sure the engine is securely chocked • Leave the engine out of gear • Fill the boiler to about ¾ of a glass, this should give ample water for future lighting up • Turn off any drip lubricators • Wipe the engine down whilst still warm • Open the cylinder drains to allow condensed steam to drain • If using a displacement lubricator, close the steam valve • If you leave the engine before the fire is out, it is prudent to turn off the water gauge glasses in case one breaks, allowing the water level in the boiler to drop below the firebox crown • Fill the tender with water and fuel ready for the next steaming

b. Steaming the next day If the engine is to be lit up again the next day, then it is prudent to keep it as warm as possible in order to save time and fuel the next morning.

• Take the poker and push the remaining fire as far forward as possible o This will be the best option for keeping the firebox tube plate and tubes warm, and minimise cold air travelling through the tubes • Place a cap on the chimney, leaving a small gap for smoke to escape

c. Parking up for some time In this instance you are looking to be able to leave the engine to go cold, but in a condition ready to light up as per section 6 above. • Take the poker and spread the remains of the fire across the grate, riddling through any clinker and ash into the ash pan • Place a cap on the chimney to cover it completely o These actions will allow the fire to go out and the engine to cool down slowly

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15. Stop, Look and Listen Whenever you are operating a RSE, whether just lighting it up, displaying it as a static exhibit or roading the engine, be sure to keep a keen eye and ear out. Watch for anything that is out of the ordinary. For example: • A loose flywheel key • A missing pin • A slipping lubricator drive • Uneven readings in the water gauges when the engine is on level ground In addition, and most importantly, keep a sharp ear out for anything that sounds out of the ordinary. For example: • Water dripping • A steam leak • A knock in the motion work • A squeak in a bearing Anything out of the ordinary should be investigated and if needs be rectified or at lease neutralised. For example, you hear the sound of steam rattling in the tender water tank. On investigation it is coming from the left hand water gauge glass drain cock. Whilst not serious, over an hour or two, it will heat the water in the tender and perhaps stop the injector from working. You could either look to fixing it by isolating the gauge, releasing the pressure, removing the plug and handle and seeing if it is something simple causing the leak, putting it back together and nipping it up. You could look to neutralise it by isolating the left hand gauge frame from the boiler and relying on one gauge frame only (assuming the engine you are driving has two gauge glasses.

If you suspect that there is something wrong or a problem is developing/has developed, then try to identify it so that you can make a value judgement as to whether it is critical (stop, fix immediately or put the engine out of service), problematic (fix at a convenient time in the near future) or nuisance, fix at the day’s end or before next steaming.

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Appendix 1 Emergencies – (Adapted from NTET CoC)

ACTION IN AN EMERGENCY An emergency may arise in the operation of a steam pressure system resulting from:- • failure of the water supply to the boiler; • failure of a joint or other component and • melting of the fusible plug ('dropping the plug').

All of the above may result in the need to quickly extinguish the fire.

NEVER ATTEMPT TO EXTINGUISH THE FIRE BY THROWING WATER ON TO IT.

A gallon of cold water thrown on to a coal fire will immediately flash into seventeen hundred gallons of steam. This is enough to blow burning coal and scalding steam out of the fire door and straight into your face. It could also blow the ash pan off with resulting injury to anyone nearby.

The safest method of extinguishing the fire is to smother it with sand, soil, spent ashes or other inert material and then ‘riddling’ it out into the ash-pan. If this is not appropriate you may have to resort to shovelling out the fire.

Warning; be very careful in handling the hot embers in a restricted area and be selective where you throw the burning ; there is no point in starting a bush fire to add to your troubles.

Failure of the water supply Most engines are fitted with a mechanical pump and an injector and, provided they are well maintained, the failure of both at the same time is a rare occurrence. Both pumps and injectors can, however, be temperamental, even when well maintained so one or the other on its own should never be relied upon to keep the boiler supplied - particularly on a road journey. Injectors sometimes fail to lift if they get too hot (usually due to hot water blowing back through a leaking check valve on the boiler); a bucket full of cold water poured slowly over it will usually cure the problem. Pump valves sometimes stick open and a smart tap with a hammer on the pump body is usually enough to get them back on to their seats. The feed check valve(s) on the boiler can also sometimes stick open; this is indicated by steam issuing from the injector or loud bubbling noises from the water tanks. Turning off the isolating valve and turning it back on again will usually get the clack back on to its seat.

NEVER strike any boiler fitting with a hammer whilst the boiler is in steam!

If any of the above occurs frequently, the cause should be investigated and corrected without delay. A feed pump may fail to lift if the plunger gland has become worn and is allowing air to be sucked in; this may be corrected by tightening the gland nuts slightly but, if it does not, the gland will have to be re-packed. Never over tighten the gland as this can cause serious damage to the plunger. Before attempting any of the above, make sure that the 'failure' is not simply due to lack of water in the tanks.

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If you run out of water or if both the pump and injector fail and simple remedies do not get one of them going again, the fire must be smothered (see above) and the boiler allowed to cool before the fusible plug melts and/or serious damage is done to the boiler.

Failure of a joint or other component If a boiler door joint or boiler fitting joint fails whilst the engine is in steam then the only course of action is to draw the fire and allow the pressure to fall in its own time. If the water level is falling fast, the injector may be put on to maintain the level above the firebox crown whilst the fire is shovelled out. Once the fire is out, keep the dampers and fire door closed to prevent uneven cooling of the boiler.

Warning; If a tube has failed, the fusible plug melted or some other failure has caused steam to blow into the firebox, do not open the firehole door. The force of the steam could blow hot coals into your face. Therefore do not attempt to shovel out the fire; the steam will put it out but make sure that the fire is completely out when the steam finally stops blowing.

All firebox stays, should have 'tell-tale' holes drilled in the ends. If a stay breaks, steam will blow through these holes, either to the outside or into the firebox. A single broken stay, thus indicated, is not a matter for immediately killing the fire and, provided that no more stays 'blow', it is safe to continue a journey. It is recommended that the boiler pressure should be reduced as much as possible consistent with completing the journey. Two or more stays 'blowing' in quick succession is however a matter of serious concern calling for immediate action; the steam pressure should be lowered as quickly as possible while the engine is got safely off the road or out of a rally ring.

If a gauge glass breaks, the protector will deflect the broken glass, steam and boiling water, which will be discharged. Some water gauge fittings incorporate a ball valve that shuts off the flow but if these are not fitted, an old coat or a sack thrown over the gauge will further deflect the steam/water whilst the steam and water cocks are turned off. Where ball valves are fitted, the balls should be checked and proved that they are made from bronze and the retaining wires checked for corrosion on an annual basis.

Melting of the fusible plug Melting of the fusible plug, or 'dropping the plug' as it is more generally known, occurs when the water level falls below the crown of the firebox and can rarely be anything else but the result of carelessness by the driver. The low melting point alloy in the plug does, however, eventually become 'tired' and most owners change the plug at yearly or two-yearly intervals. If you do drop the plug, the only course of action is to get the engine to the side of the road while there is still some steam left, stop, and let the jet of steam from the plug put the fire out. if it is safe to do so attempt to get water into the boiler. Make sure that the fire is fully out when the steam stops blowing and then fit a new plug once the boiler has cooled down. DO NOT OPEN THE FIREHOLE DOOR

The following should be carried for use in an emergency:- • spare fusible plug; • spare gauge glasses and sealing rings; • spare manhole and mudhole joints; • water pump gland packing; steam valve gland packing; • sufficient spanners, etc. to carry out minor repairs and adjustments; • a water bucket for extinguishing small external fires caused by sparks or hot ashes; • a long handled shovel for throwing the fire out; • a first aid kit.

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An old donkey jacket or a thick sack is useful to throw over the water gauge if a glass goes or to contain the jet of steam/water if a joint or steam valve gland 'blows'. Piston and valve rod gland packing are not usually subject to catastrophic failure but it is a wise precaution to carry spare packing.

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Appendix 2 Water Gauge Glasses – (Adapted from NTET CoC)

Water Gauges

Water gauges should be blown down at least once during a working day. Although the test need not be done at full working pressure, it should not be done at low pressures below half that figure.

The following sequence should always be followed:-

• Close the top steam cock and bottom water cock.

• Open the column drain cock; the water should disappear from the glass. o After a few moments, check that water and/or steam do not continue to discharge from the drain pipe; if they do, it means that the steam and/or water cocks are not shutting off properly.

• Keeping the drain cock open and the steam cock shut open the bottom water cock; water & steam should discharge vigorously from the drain pipe.

• Re-close the water cock.

• Keeping the drain cock open and the water cock shut open the top steam cock; steam should discharge vigorously from the drain pipe.

• Close the drain cock and check that water does not rise into the glass.

• Open the bottom cock. The water should rise in the glass without hesitation.

When the engine is travelling the water level should move up and down the glass freely.

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Appendix 3 Lubrication of Steam Engines – Valve and Cylinder Lubrication

Wet Steam When steam leaves the boiler without superheat it will contain some free water upon reaching the engine throttle valve. Under average conditions wet steam generated at 200 pounds per sq. inch or less will contain 5 to 15 per cent suspended moisture when it reaches the engine throttle valve. When engines are located at some distance from the boilers, or when steam lines are not properly insulated, the moisture content will be correspondingly higher. Very Wet Steam In steam-engine operation the factors, which have the greatest influence on steam conditions are, steam pressure, load, cut off, cylinder size, piston speed and length of steam pipe.

When engines operate on partial load the effect of condensation on cylinder walls and valves is generally pronounced. Early cut off has a similar effect. For engines operating on wet steam and pressures below 150 pounds per sq. inch, a light cylinder oil of about 460 cSt @ 40°C viscosity should be used. Such lubricants will flow readily over the cylinder wall and valve surfaces, and if 5 per cent of compounding is incorporated in the cylinder oil it will provide a strong emulsion that will adhere to the wet surfaces and resist the washing action of moisture. Under the conditions outlined, 5 per cent of compounding will often cut the necessary oil-feed rate to 75% of that of a straight mineral oil.

Normally, Wet Steam steam engines operating continuously at full load and supplied with steam that does not contain more than 5 to 10 per cent of moisture at the throttle valve are seldom difficult to lubricate. Steam velocities are sufficiently high to atomise the oil thoroughly and condensation is not generally excessive. Generally, the cylinder oil should have an approximate viscosity of 680 cSt @ 40°C and 5 per cent of compounding for pressures below 200 pounds.

The higher the pressure, the heavier the oil and as a general rule, slightly less compounding is required to maintain a satisfactory emulsion on the cylinder walls. For example under normal conditions, steam generated at 200 pounds per sq. inch near the engine will not contain much moisture at the throttle valve. The pressure may show a slight drop, but the moisture content will probably be about 5 per cent. Hence, with ample steam velocity to break up the oil and a temperature of approximately 193°C (380°F) a cylinder oil having a viscosity of 680 cSt @ 40°C and 5 per cent of compounding would be a normal recommendation.

The addition of compounding will maintain a good emulsion by mixing with the moisture thereby increasing the tenacity of the oil film and retarding the washing-cut action. With efficient oil- extracting equipment he compounded oil may be taken out of the condensate without difficulty. Otherwise a straight mineral oil should be used. However the benefit of this latter practice is often doubtful because the oil-feed rate must be increased to secure satisfactory lubrication.

Superheated Steam To explain engine cylinder lubrication under conditions of superheated steam it is helpful to draw conclusions of other types of engines. By following this procedure, factors, which are often difficult to understand in engines operating on superheat steam, can be logically assumed through these comparisons. For example, in the cylinders of any internal-combustion engine, over-all temperatures of the burning and expanding gases are much higher than in steam engines.

In Diesel engines the maximum temperature of combustion is approximately 2000°C, which is sufficient to vaporize and destroy the heaviest oil made, while that of the exhaust is approximately

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850°C just before the opening of the valve or port. Yet there is very little difficulty in lubricating the cylinders of average internal-combustion engines with comparatively light oils. In fact, engines of this type never require lubricants comparable in viscosity to steam cylinder oils.

In the cylinders of most gasoline and diesel engines, the lubricating oil is spread over a water-cooled surface. Hence, an oil film of microscopic thickness survives these high temperatures, because it is maintained in a comparatively cool surface. Experiments show that the average surface temperature on the cylinder walls of internal-combustion engines is about 200°C. Even this temperature is comparatively cool because the lubricating oil is being replenished with each stroke piston.

Now consider the steam engines. Steam Cylinder Wall Temperatures Operation of a cylinder is opposite to that of an internal-combustion engine. Instead of the cylinder walls being cooled, they are insulated against heat losses to reduce condensation and are very often equipped with steam jackets to maintain the highest possible operating temperature on the internal surfaces. Hence, steam cylinder walls are maintained at higher operating temperatures than the walls of internal-combustion engines. For wet-steam operation, these temperatures can be handled with comparative ease by oils of the type known collectively as 'light and medium-viscosity cylinder stocks'.

For example, when the steam pressure at the throttle valve is 250 psi, the steam temperature will be about 210°C (405°F) and an average cylinder wall temperature under these conditions will be about 176°C (350°F) depending on the type of insulation around the cylinder. This range is well within the working temperature range of cylinder stocks. Significance of Viscosity and Flash Point Nature has placed a limit on the temperatures that the heaviest-bodied cylinder oils can withstand. At temperatures above 315°C (600°F) the heaviest steam cylinder oils will commence to "crack and give off volatile vapours but a good average-grade (680 cSt @ 40°C) oil will give off very little vapour. Nevertheless, at these temperatures, the flash point has been reached or passed for most cylinder stocks. There are cylinder stocks of very heavy body which have flash points higher than 370°C (700°F), but their carbon-forming tendencies are correspondingly high, and for this reason their use for high-superheat conditions is not considered. For use with superheat steam the cylinder oil should have a flash point of not less than 240°C (464°F) for the lighter grades and not below 280°C (536°F) for the heavier grades. However, flash points are only a theoretical guide to the possible behaviour of oil films on hot cylinder walls.

These oil films are only about 25 microns (1/1000 of an mm) in thickness and in that position are extremely vulnerable to disintegration from heat. Furthermore, at high temperatures the heaviest cylinder oils tend to fry up into little spheres. Furthermore, all lubricating oils tend to approach a common viscosity as the temperature rises. For example, when a cylinder oil of medium viscosity is heated to 230°C (450°F) it is not much thinner than heavy cylinder oil at the same temperature. The oil entering a steam is hot before it reaches the internal moving parts because it travels slowly, drop by drop, through the feed line. Upon reaching the hot cylinder, or steam pipe, it is thinned down to an appreciable extent. If the oil travels through a steam jacket before reaching the cylinder, the thinning effect is more pronounced. From this it will be seen that the property of steam cylinder oil is very much changed after leaving the lubricator.

The oil film on a cylinder wall is a light-bodied, tenacious fluid, quite different from its viscous and original state in the drum. Cylinder oils having viscosities above 1000 cSt @ 40°C are not widely available, and their performance data are therefore limited. Most engines operating on superheated steam are lubricated by heavy oils. However, with high-temperature steam, the most important consideration is to provide a sufficient number of oil feeds around the cylinder and thereby maintain the oil film with a small feed of comparatively cool oil at each point Effect of High Temperatures on

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Compounded Cylinder Oils Whenever moisture is present in engine cylinders, compounding will materially improve lubrication.

These materials combine with moisture to form a tenacious emulsion, and this effect cuts down the rate of feed that would otherwise be required. Owing to the washing effect of moisture, straight mineral oils are easily washed out of cylinders and a higher rate of feed is required to maintain the oil film. However, little or no compounding is generally advisable when the original temperature of the steam is raised more than 38°C (100°F) by means of a . Emulsifying materials of this type tend to increase the rate of the deposit formations at prolonged temperatures above 260°C (500°F). For intermittent operation, early cut off, long steam pipe priming and similar operating factors, a small amount of compounding is sometimes advantageous to produce an emulsion with the resulting moisture.

For example, when hot steam strikes the comparatively cool steam chest and cylinder walls of an engine that is continually starting and stopping, there is always sufficient condensation to warrant adding 5 per cent of compounding, regardless of superheat conditions. Steam that contains 10° to 38°C (50° to 100°F) of superheat should not present a problem in lubrication because a temperature drop occurs between the boiler and engine throttle valve.

Upon expanding a short distance in the high-pressure cylinder, the steam will become wet and the average cylinder wall temperature will not be excessive, even if steam jacketed. Hence, 5 per cent of compounding will usually be found permissible and positively advantageous. High Superheat and Its Effect on Lubrication The real problem begins when there is more than 38°C (100°F) of superheat in the steam. For example, with a boiler pressure of 250 pounds per sq. inch the steam temperature will be 20°C (405°F) if the superheater adds 93°C (200°F); total steam temperature is 318°C (605°F). At temperatures above 315°C (600°F) it should now be obvious that an oil film of microscopic thickness must tend to roll up into little spheres, distil, oxidize rapidly and produce carbon deposits. Contrary to general belief, there appears to be no particular advantage in using the heaviest oils obtainable. Such oils contain a high percentage of carbon-forming material and tend to defeat their purpose for this reason. It is therefore our opinion that high-temperature steam is often not practical for reciprocating engines. With steam temperatures much above 287°C (550°F) the oil film is far too thin and weak to prevent excessive wear. Furthermore, carbon accumulations necessitate frequent shutdowns for cleaning and any theoretical advantage that may be gained in fuel economy is more than offset by expensive maintenance costs.

For single-cylinder engines, the added temperature should not be more than l0°C (50°F) at the throttle valve if the total steam temperature approaches 260°C (50°F). For multi-cylinder or compounded engines, the added temperature should not be more than 38°C (100°F) at the throttle valve if the total steam temperature approaches 260°C (500°F). This amount of superheat assures the engine of dry steam at the high-pressure valves and at least reduces a lubrication problem, which cannot be solved with any degree of satisfaction. In fact 37°C (100°F) of superheat may be considered high if the total steam temperature is above 260°C (550°F). Auxiliary Steam Engines Where steam is available, one often finds small steam engines to drive such equipment as condensate return pumps, vacuum pumps etc.

These are often neglected because of their small power consumption, low cost and ease of maintenance. These engines are often the source of high oil consumption and this must be taken into consideration when setting feed rates. In addition to the waste of oil, these feeds may be the source of excessive oil in the condensate return to the boilers. Oil in Boilers There is no definite agreement on the safe limit of cylinder oil which may be continually present in a boiler, for the reason that such factors as design, steaming conditions, effect of boiler compounds and similar

BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES Page 27 variables enter into the question. However, the following approximate safe limits are based on a cross-section of conservative opinions by boiler manufacturers, oil extractor manufacturers, feed water treatment chemists and independent investigators. In water-tube boilers equipped with the oil content should be maintained at less than 5 parts of oil per million parts of water.

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Appendix 4 Selection of Oil for Steam Engines

The object of internal lubrication in a steam engine is to form a lubricating film between the rubbing surfaces and thus replace the metallic with fluid friction as far as possible and to form an oil-sealing film in order to prevent leakage of steam past the valves, pistons and gland packings. Only by feeding the correct grade of high-quality cylinder oil, specially selected to suit the operating conditions of the engine, applied in the correct manner, to the right place and in the right quantity, will the steam engine continue to operate at its highest efficiency and with the minimum cost of renewals and repairs.

Good lubrication is therefore dependent chiefly on the methods of lubrication employed and the selection of the correct oil for each individual case. If too much oil is used, lubrication under saturated-steam conditions will not be any better than when the right quantity of oil is used; whereas under superheated-steam conditions, the excess oil is detrimental, leading to the formation of carbonaceous deposits. If too little oil is used, a satisfactory oil film will not be maintained between the frictional surfaces, so that not only will heavy friction and wear occur but also excessive steam leakage. There are a few vertical engines employing saturated steam which can be operated without the use of cylinder oil and without groaning. Non-lubrication will, however, mean excessive friction and excessive leakage of steam past the moving surfaces, which will cost many times that of good lubrication. If an oil too heavy in viscosity is used it will not atomize readily, resulting in poor distribution and necessitating excessive consumption.

Because of its heavy body, the fluid frictional losses will be higher than they need to be and if the steam carries over impurities to the engine which are the results of priming, the use of such oil will encourage the accumulation of deposits, particularly under conditions of high pressure and superheat. If an oil is too light in viscosity is used, it will readily atomize and distribute itself, but it will not be able to withstand the pressure between the rubbing surfaces; metallic contact will take place, resulting in excessive wear; also, excessive leakage of steam will occur, owing to the rubbing surfaces' not being completely oil sealed. With the right-quality oil in use, correctly selected for the conditions and applied in the right quantity, a satisfactory lubricating film will be maintained on all the internal surfaces: This film will be maintained with a lower consumption of oil than with any other grade of oil.

Therefore the cost of lubrication will be low, and the frictional losses, because of the fluid friction of the oil itself as well as the leakage of steam past the moving surfaces, will be reduced to the minimum. For conditions of high pressure and superheat, the use of the right-quality cylinder oil will also mean that, rightly applied and in the right quantity, the danger of the formation of carbonaceous deposits will be minimized and the possibility of excessive wear much reduced. Influence of Pressure - High steam pressure means high temperature, so that, generally speaking, heavy-viscosity oils are used for high steam pressures and low-viscosity oils for low steam pressures (low-pressure cylinders in particular).

Influence of Size, Speed and Construction - the weight of a piston increases very nearly as the cube of its diameter, but its bearing surface more as the square, so that large pistons in horizontal engines, when they are not supported by a tail rod, require very heavy-viscosity oils. Smaller pistons, other things being equal, will be best served with lower viscosity oils. High piston speed, which is found in the later engines, particularly superheated-steam engines, demands lower viscosity oils, so as to minimize the oil drag on pistons.

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Influence of Superheat Steam - when steam of moderate superheat is used it will enter the high- pressure cylinder in a dry condition; but during the expansion of the steam in the cylinder it will cool, and, toward the end of the stroke, condensation will occur. In the case of highly superheated steam, it is of the greatest importance that the oil should be thoroughly atomized in the body of the steam. There is no condensation, therefore no washing effect on the cylinder walls.

The oil remains a long time in the high-pressure cylinder; exposed to friction and heat; while, therefore, only a small quantity of oil is required, it should be of such a nature that it will withstand the heat without appreciable decomposition and resultant formation of carbon. As regards compounding superheat cylinder oils, we would recommend a small percentage; say 4 to 6 per cent of compounding additive for most conditions of superheat, as the fixed oil improves lubrication appreciably.

The oil becomes very thin owing to the high temperature, and the fixed oil improves the oiliness of a straight mineral oil; its presence if therefore nearly always desirable. No ill effects, as far as we are aware, have ever been known to be caused by decomposition (formation of tarry acid) of such a small percentage of fixed oil. On the contrary, it will tend to prevent carbonized matter from baking together and forming hard crusts, in this way making the nature of such deposits less dangerous. Influence of Wet Steam - where the steam is wet it has a tendency to wash away the oil film on the internal surfaces. In compound or triple-expansion engines, even if the steam is dry on entering the high-pressure cylinder, the fail in pressure and expansion taking place produces condensation, so that the steam arriving at the low-pressure cylinder usually is very wet. It is obvious that the problem of lubricating the high-pressure cylinder under dry-steam conditions is different from lubricating the high-pressure cylinder under wet-steam conditions or from lubricating the low- pressure cylinders under very wet-steam conditions.

In order to lubricate cylinders satisfactorily under wet-steam conditions, the cylinder oil must readily combine with the moisture and cling to the cylinder walls; i.e., it must be a compounded cylinder oil. It is therefore frequently desirable to use one grade of cylinder oil for the high- pressure cylinder and a different grade (lower viscosity) for the low-pressure cylinder in large compound or triple- expansion engines. Influence of Engine Load - the greater the engine load the greater the volume of steam passing through the steam pipe into the engine; and the higher its velocity the better it will be able to break up the cylinder oil introduced through the atomizer. As superheated steam does not atomize and distribute the oil so well as does saturated steam, engines employing superheated steam and likely to operate under light load conditions should have means for lubricating the internal parts direct in addition to introducing the oil where it can be atomized. Light load also means that the steam expands more in the high-pressure cylinder, so that at the end of the piston stroke the steam is much more moist (more condensation) than under full- load conditions.

Wet steam calls for compounded cylinder oil, so that, speaking generally light-load conditions demand compounded oils of low viscosity. Influence of Impurities in the Steam - it has already been mentioned how iron oxides, boiler salts etc., have the effect of combining with the oil and forming deposits. The higher the viscosity of the oil the more difficult will it be to avoid such deposits, as such oils cling tenaciously to the impurities. Low-viscosity oils are therefore to be preferred, where a great deal of impurities enter with the steam; this is particularly the case under conditions of superheat.

As the presence of impurities in the steam usually means that priming of the boilers is responsible, in the first instance, the steam will be wet, so that oils heavily compounded are, as a rule, called for. Influence of Exhaust Steam - as mentioned elsewhere, under certain conditions it is desirable to

BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES Page 30 extract the oil from the exhaust steam and to eliminate, as far as possible, the danger arising from it getting back into the boiler. All compounded cylinder oils are difficult to separate from the exhaust steam and from the feed water. All straight mineral oils are fairly easy to extract; just a trace of the oil goes into a fine emulsion. This separates easily from the feed-water and the oil can be recovered and used on less important work. The feed water will be practically free from emulsified oil.

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Appendix 5

Occasional Running Troubles with Steam Engines By Edward Ingham, A.M.I.Mech.E. (c. 1930)

The reciprocating steam engine is probably the most reliable of all prime movers, but, like all other machines, gives trouble at times. Some of these troubles are considered briefly in what follows.

Groaning

An engine will sometimes groan, or utter a low, continuous rumbling sound, as though it were lamenting the fact that it has to work so hard. This groaning is usually an indication of undue friction of the working parts, notably the pistons and piston rods, valves and spindles, and may be the result of unsatisfactory lubrication, or imperfect alignment of the various parts.

The lubrication may be unsatisfactory either because the parts are not receiving sufficient oil, or because the oil is of unsuitable quality. In the former case, the lubricators may not be functioning properly; or oil holes and grooves may have become more or less choked with gummy deposit and dirt. Groaning is often an indication of general neglect to keep all the lubricating arrangements, on which so much depends both as regards wear and tear and power economy, in first-class working condition. If the oil is of unsuitable quality, particularly if it has a tendency to become gummy, the groaning is likely to be especially noticeable when the engine is started up.

To obtain the best piston and cylinder lubrication, a good deal of experimenting with different cylinder oils may be necessary. It is a wise policy to avoid using cheap oils; they are in most cases responsible for early wear of the piston rings and the cylinders, and for much waste of power in overcoming frictional resistances. Much trouble may be saved by following the advice of an oil expert as to what is the most suitable oil to meet the actual working conditions. As to the right quantity of oil to use, this can only be determined by opening out the cylinders occasionally and inspecting the bores. If there are any dry or especially bright places, insufficient oil is being supplied; if there are signs of the oil running down the surfaces, then too much. The ideal condition is a fine film of oil spread uniformly over the whole of the cylinder walls.

If the various parts are not in true alignment, excessive friction is inevitable, because misalignment results in certain moving parts bearing unevenly against the parts which support them, as for example, a piston rod against a gland, or a shaft in a bearing, and this means excessive rubbing pressure at certain places, which tends to press out the lubricant from between the surfaces, or prevent it from getting between, so that there is metal-to-metal contact, and great friction. When an engine is first installed, the greatest care is taken by the makers to get all the parts accurately lined up, but after some years working, so much wear may have taken place that the alignment is no longer true; and there is the possibility that the foundation, or a portion of it, may have settled slightly, so causing the engine to be thrown out of line.

Hot bearings

When a shaft journal runs in a bearing, there must, even under the best conditions, be a slight amount of friction between the journal and bearing surfaces, and to overcome this friction mechanical work has to be done, which is converted into heat. Hence, whenever a shaft is set in motion, there must be slight rise of temperature at the journals and bearings, but if the conditions of running are satisfactory, heat will be radiated from the bearing as fast as it is generated; wherefore,

BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES Page 32 after a short time, a maximum temperature will be reached, which will not be high enough to cause any practical difficulties. When the running conditions are not satisfactory, the temperature may continue to rise until the bearing becomes seriously overheated, in which case such troubles as scoring of the journal and the bearing brasses, running of the white metal, surface cracking of the journal and deep cracking of the bearing, may arise. There may also result seizure and breakdown. A hot bearing is obviously something to be carefully guarded against.

There are several causes of hot bearings, such as faulty lubrication, wrong adjustment, imperfect alignment of the shaft, too heavy a load on the bearing, and unsuitable design.

Generally, when a bearing gets hot, the best plan is to stop the engine and investigate, unless an examination under running conditions reveals that a lubricator is not operating properly or that it has become short of oil. If the lubricator is of the syphon type, it may be that the wick has not been inserted, or that it has been carelessly inserted so that the end down the oil hole is at a higher level than the end in the oil well, in which case, the syphoning action cannot take place. If the bearing is of the ring-oiled type, perhaps a ring has ceased to rotate, so that the oil is not being lifted to the shaft. When shutting down is to be avoided if at all possible, and the lubricators appear to be functioning properly, increasing the oil supply and slightly easing the bearing cap may be beneficial. Some engineers recommend castor oil for a hot bearing, and others, finely powdered sulphur, which, if added in small quantity to the oil, is said to have a pronounced effect in cooling the bearing. Under no circumstances should the bearing be cooled by throwing cold water over it, because the sudden cooling is apt to set up surface cracks in the shaft journal, and to fracture the bearing cap or brasses.

If the engine can be shut down and the bearing brasses removed, the oil passages and grooves should be cleaned out if necessary and an examination made for any signs of grit, which is a common cause of overheating. When the brasses are replaced, and the bearing cap screwed down hard, they may bind on the shaft (which would at once account for the overheating), in which case, it will be necessary to ease them by scraping, or perhaps fit a liner at the joint.

When persistent overheating is experienced, imperfect alignment of the shaft is a likely cause, because when the shaft is not truly lined up it exerts abnormal pressure at the ends of the bearing.

A notable feature of the steam engine is that it is capable of driving a load much in excess of that for which it is designed. This accounts for the fact that steam engines frequently become overloaded as the consequence of installing more and more machinery, and this overloading commonly manifests itself by persistent overheating of the main or crankshaft bearings. Overheating of these bearings may also be caused by having the main driving belt too tight.

Unsuitable design of the bearing may account for persistent overheating, in which case, the only remedy will probably be to replace the bearing by one of more suitable design.

In the great majority of cases, the trouble in question may be traced to one or other of the causes above mentioned. Very occasionally, the greatest difficulty is experienced in accounting for the trouble. Thus, in one instance, a big-end bearing gave trouble from the first, and for a long time, all efforts to cure it proved unavailing. Finally, it was suspected that the cause was unsatisfactory balancing of the engine. A balance weight was accordingly fitted to the flywheel, and this effectively overcame the trouble.

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Pounding and knocking

This is one of the most serious running troubles, and will almost certainly lead to early breakdown if it is not quickly prevented.

The usual cause of pounding, thumping, or knocking, is looseness of some part, or wear and consequent lost motion. The working loose, for example, of a piston nut, will allow the piston to become slack, so that it may bang violently on the rod at the end of the stroke, when reversal of the piston motion takes place, so imposing excessive stresses both on itself and on the rod; also, wear in a big-end bearing will cause violent banging because the connecting-rod end brasses keep moving away slightly from the crank pin and then coming into heavy contact again.

In many instances, the cause of knocking is quite obvious, but in others it is far from being so, and much difficulty may be experienced in locating the knock because the noise sometimes manifests itself at a place far removed from the source of the trouble. Thus, looseness of the flywheel keys may cause knocking which appears to be due to something wrong in the neighbourhood of the crosshead and piston rod. Again, the wearing slightly oval of an eccentric may give rise to a pounding which travels along the eccentric rod to the cylinder. A simple form of stethoscope consisting merely of a hard wooden rod may be of great value in locating the source of elusive knocking of this kind. Thus, it may be difficult to determine whether or not the source of a knock is inside a cylinder, but if one end of the rod be placed against the cylinder, and the other held firmly between the teeth, and if the ears be then closed by the fingers, the noise can be heard much more distinctly, and therefore may be more easily located. During recent years much attention has been given to this question of locating internal and external sounds about machinery, and special sound-detecting instruments have been devised, which may be purchased quite cheaply.

A possible cause of knocking which should always be borne in mind is misalignment of the parts, which, as we have seen, is also a cause of hot bearings.

Not infrequently, knocking occurs after an engine has been overhauled or repaired. Thus, the taking- up of the connecting-rod end brasses with the object of preventing knocking due to slackness or wear of the brasses may be followed by knocking in the cylinder. The probable explanation is that the piston has worn the cylinder until ridges have formed at the ends of the stroke, and the adjustment of the connecting rod end brasses has slightly altered the centres or effective length of the connecting rod, so that the piston strikes against one of the ridges every revolution of the engine. If the clearance between the piston, when at the end of its stroke, and the cylinder end, were very small, it is possible that after adjustment of the brasses, the piston might strike against the cylinder end. This would cause very heavy banging, and perhaps breakage of the cylinder end and the piston. Similarly, with slide-valve engines, adjustment of the valve gear may result in the valve striking against one end of the valve chest.

In a few instances, where the cylinders have been fitted with liners, the slight shifting of a liner has been responsible for heavy knocking which has proved most difficult to locate, and occasionally a considerable amount of dismantling and much unnecessary repair have been carried out before the true cause has been discovered.

An indication of the engine will sometimes furnish a clue as to the cause of mysterious knocking. For example, the indicator diagram will show if the valve setting is correct, and whether there is a suitable amount of steam compression at the ends of the stroke. When there is little or no compression, the moving parts are not brought smoothly to rest at the ends of the stroke, as they should be, and if there is any slackness or wear of the parts, there will be a much greater tendency

BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES Page 34 to knocking than would otherwise be the case. On the other hand, excessive compression might itself be a cause of knocking by lifting a repeatedly from its seating at the ends of the stroke.

Water in the cylinders

This is a common cause of knocking, and also of engine breakdowns. The presence of water in the cylinders may be accounted for by priming in the boilers, and by excessive condensation of steam in the steam pipes and the engine cylinders. Opening the drain cocks will generally stop knocking caused by water in the cylinders, but this is only a temporary measure. The great thing is to avoid priming in the boilers by working with a reasonably low water level, using good water, firing without forcing, opening the stop valve always very gradually, and to avoid excessive condensation by keeping steam pipes and engine cylinders efficiently covered by good non-conducting composition. A good separator connected with the main steam pipe near the engine will arrest much of the water which comes over with the steam. Any water which enters the cylinders is of course swished about by the rapidly moving pistons, but if sufficient water enters, the clearance space between the piston and the cylinder ends will be completely filled, and the piston will then strike against an incompressible mass of water, so that a disastrous breakdown is almost inevitable. Superheating the steam eliminates the danger of water in the cylinders, and since it prevents initial condensation, which is one of the principal sources of loss in the steam engine, it also effects considerable economy of steam and coal.

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Appendix 6 The Injector – Black art of the steam world!

STEAM ENGINE GUIDE by Prof. P. S. Rose

The Injector. - The injector was invented by Mr. Henry Jacques Giffard, a Frenchman, in 1857 and there is no machine used in steam engineering that is more counter intuitive.

It seems incredible that a machine can be constructed which will take up a large quantity of water, and then go back again into the boiler against the pressure from which it started. At first sight, it looks to be of the same nature as a perpetual motion machine, and it was considered in this light by the United States Patent Commissioner when it was submitted to him for letters patent. In fact, he refused, so it is said, to grant a patent until he had actually seen it in operation.

The principle of action of the injector is not easy to explain fully without the aid of some advanced mathematics; however, the following explanation will answer fairly well.

Let B, Figure 20, represent a cross section of a steam boiler; C and D are pipes fitted with valves which communicate with the water space and steam space respectively. We will assume a steam pressure in the boiler at 100 lbs. Now if valve C were opened, water would flow out with a velocity of a little more than 121 feet per second, a figure which can easily be verified by anyone having knowledge of the laws of falling bodies.

If the valve D be opened, with the steam pressure as before, steam will flow out with a velocity of 2,200 feet per second. We may say roughly that steam flowing from a boiler under pressure will have a velocity of from 15 to 18 times that of the water. This ratio changes somewhat under various conditions as to pressure in the boiler, and the pressure against which the steam escapes.

If now, instead of allowing the steam to escape through an open pipe it were made to pass through a pipe E, having a section at F, that could be kept very cold so that the steam would be instantly condensed at that point, the resulting stream of water, while very much smaller than the steam in cross section, would still travel with practically the same velocity; and if this stream were directed back into the boiler it would have no trouble in entering therein, since it has a velocity about 18 times as great as that of the water which opposes its entrance. Since this stream of water has such a high velocity it could easily carry with it a considerable extra load, and while its velocity would be reduced thereby, it would still have sufficient velocity to enter the boiler.

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There are really only two types of injectors, namely, the automatic and the positive. Automatic injectors have a single set of jets, or tubes, while positive injectors have two sets. If the end of the suction hose becomes uncovered and the suction breaks, the automatic injector will start again, but if the suction of the positive injector breaks it must be started again by hand. It is this property of the automatic injector that makes it the best form of injector for all road engines where the water washes back and forth in the tank a great deal.

Figure 21 is a sectional view of a Penberthy injector, such as is used on traction engines. When steam is first admitted to the injector, it flows through the steam jet R, then down through the suction jet S, and carries with it whatever air there is in the space between jets R and S.

This steam and air lifts the overflow valve and escapes to the atmosphere, because it has not momentum enough to enter the boiler. As soon as the air is exhausted from the inside of the injector, atmospheric pressure forces water up into the combining chamber, and condenses the jet of steam issuing from the steam jet R.

The chamber between R and S corresponds to the cold portion F in the preceding diagram, and is maintained cold so long as fresh water enters from the tank. Whatever steam there may be in the injector is now condensed by the jet of water passing through, and consequently atmospheric pressure closes the check valve P.

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The stream flowing through the injector must be a purely liquid one, that is, it must not contain any steam or air. If it does, the resulting stream will not have enough weight combined with its velocity to overcome boiler pressure and will consequently flow out at the overflow valve.

For the same reason, if the injector is hot, as it is if the valve in the steam pipe leaks, it will not work because some of the suction water is changed to steam by the heat in the injector and the resulting stream will contain steam. The remedy in this case is to pour cold water on the injector until it becomes cold enough to start. An injector cannot handle hot water either, because hot water will not condense all of the steam.

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Appendix 7 Corrosion and causes of corrosion in boilers – (Adapted from NTET CoC)

In order to achieve good, safe and efficient boiler operation and management, it is necessary to understand what goes on, both inside and outside a boiler whilst it is in use. The whole purpose of a steam boiler is to transfer heat from a fire to the water contained in the boiler and to turn it into steam; this process creates conditions under which the steel from which the boiler is constructed deteriorates very rapidly if good management techniques are not employed. The following are the main causes of deterioration in boilers:-

SCALE. Although it can vary greatly in composition, scale is always a very poor conductor of heat and even as little as 1/16th inch on the water side of the plates and tubes can reduce the rate of heat transfer quite dramatically. Whilst the resulting loss of efficiency may not be of serious concern to engine owners the slowing down of the rate of heat transfer through the firebox plates and the tubes leads to overheating and consequent deterioration of the steel. If thicker incrustations of scale are allowed to build up, this deterioration can be both rapid and severe.

STRESS CORROSION FATIGUE. This often occurs in the tube plates and is due to differential expansion when a boiler is 'forced' or heated up too quickly and/or by rapid cooling of the firebox tubeplate due to admission of cold air to the firebox. Repeated, rapid heating and cooling of the tubeplates causes metal fatigue which eventually causes cracking between the tube holes. This form of deterioration occurs far more rapidly if scale is allowed to build up on the water side of the firebox tubeplate, with consequent overheating of the metal.

GROOVING. Uneven expansion brought about by rapid heating or cooling of the boiler causes minute bending of the firebox stays and of the boilerplates at the junctions with the foundation ring and between the front tube plate and the barrel. Over time this may cause metal fatigue, particularly in the firebox stays. However, the more rapid effect is to cause the phenomenon known as 'grooving' in which the metal is eroded away at the junction of two plates. Grooving can be particularly severe in double riveted longitudinal lap seams. It also occurs at the junction between the plates and foundation ring, and at the junction between the front tube plate and the barrel. The effect can be reduced by heating up and cooling down the boiler slowly, so minimising the temperature difference between the inner and outer parts of the boiler.

CAUSTIC CRACKING. Care should be taken when running with high levels of caustic salts in the boiler water as this could lead to Caustic Cracking. The high pH level, over time, leads to the boiler plates becoming brittle. Ideally pH should be kept in the range of 9 to 10.

SCABBING. Scale on tubes is sometimes found to be 'scabbed'. When these scabs are dislodged, deep active black pits of corrosion are revealed. This phenomenon can lead to early failure of the tubes and, as with all scale-related problems; the only prevention is careful attention to water treatment.

OIL. If oil is allowed to get into the feed water, the immediate effect can be quite serious foaming. In the longer term, however, the oil tends to find its way to the hottest surfaces of the tubes and firebox

BASIC OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR ROAD STEAM ENGINES Page 39 where it forms a thin but highly insulating deposit leading to overheating and consequent deterioration of the metal. If oil accidentally gets into the feed water tanks, it can be floated of the surface and then the tank cleaned with an alkaline wash (a solution of washing soda).

CORROSION IN THE STEAM/WATER SPACE. Iron and oxygen combine naturally at ambient temperatures but the process is greatly accelerated by the presence of heat and/or water. The presence of heat and water in the steam/water space of a boiler is inevitable so the reduction of the rate of corrosion depends upon reducing, as far as practicable, the amount of free oxygen present and preventing what remains from coming into contact with the metal. Untreated feed water contains dissolved oxygen, carbon dioxide and, depending upon its source, various minerals, all of which are released as the water is heated. Chemical reactions can take place bringing about corrosive conditions and the minerals are deposited as scale upon the inner surfaces of the boiler. Good boiler management therefore demands a programme of feed water treatment aimed at reducing the oxygen content and preventing the excessive deposit of scale. As a boiler cools at the end of a period of steaming and the remaining steam inside it condenses, air is drawn-in creating a warm, damp, oxygen rich and therefore highly corrosive atmosphere in the steam space. It is therefore helpful, at the end of a period of steaming, to fill the boiler as full as practicable so as to reduce the air space above the water. It is also helpful to vent the boiler when raising steam.

CORROSION ON THE FIRE SIDE. Corrosion and erosion by the action of the fire upon the firebox plates, stay heads, tubes and tube plates is inevitable but the process can be slowed-down by the using suitable fuel and careful firing. Leaving acidic soot deposits and ashes in the firebox when the engine is not in use, even for relatively short periods, can cause rapid deterioration. Very severe corrosion can occur at the lower part of the smokebox tubeplate if soot is allowed to pile up against it and subsequently becomes wet, either due to leakage from tubes or handholes, rain coming down the chimney or just winter damp. Severe general corrosion of the fire side of the boiler plates and smokebox can also occur if the metal is not adequately protected during periods when the engine is laid-up.

EXTERNAL CORROSION. The major cause of localised external corrosion of boiler shells is water leaking from defective piston and valve rod glands, condensate dripping from the blast pipe, leaking manhole and mudhole joints and leaking joints where fittings are attached to the boiler. In the last case, the securing studs quickly become wasted and in all cases severe localised wastage of the boilerplates can occur, necessitating difficult and expensive repairs. Occasional leakage from glands is almost inevitable and engines should be fitted with means for catching the water and draining it away. All leaks should be attended to without delay and particular attention should be given to fittings where any leakage could be hidden by lagging. Care should be taken to adequately protect the boiler in front of the cylinder block, particularly during winter storage.

General external corrosion occurs if an engine is left outdoors for extended periods and, to a lesser extent if kept under cover in damp conditions. Corrosion can be particularly severe under lagging if water retentive materials such as mineral fibre, are used for boiler insulation and become wet due to rain or water leakage.

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Appendix 8 Boiler treatment and blowing down – (Adapted from NTET CoC)

The efficiency and well being of any steam boiler depends very heavily upon the use of suitable fuel, skilled firing, good quality feed water and the maintenance of water quality within the boiler. Industrial users, with an eye to economy both in fuel and cost of repairs, have given these factors high priority since the early days of steam power. Conversely, during the working lives of traction engines, etc. their operators had to take whatever water they could get and frequently had very little control over fuel quality. Such engines probably had an original design life of about 20 years (some survived for much less) and it is a great tribute to their builders and operators that so many have survived into preservation.

Those engines, which have survived, are now cherished by their owners and are worth a great deal of money. It is therefore in everyone's interests to maintain them in the best possible condition for as long as possible and the purpose of this section is to provide guidelines which will help to achieve that purpose.

The effects of air, water and dissolved minerals upon the internal surfaces of boilers have been described in a previous appendix. Although there are many forms of water treatment available to reduce these problems to a minimum, those that consist of compounds, which are added to the feed water, are probably the most practical and convenient for traction engines, etc. A good treatment compound of this type will achieve three results: firstly scavenge free oxygen in the boiler and feed water, secondly to provide a protective coating on the internal surfaces of the boiler and, thirdly, to retain dissolved minerals in suspension in the water rather than being deposited as scale.

Water treatment compounds should be used strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. These usually require a simple test, which shows how much compound, should be added to the boiler and next tank of feed water. It is not necessary to have a detailed analysis of the water supply although, if available, it does enable economies to be made in the quantity of treatment compound used. Rally organisers should obtain a general analysis from the water supply company and make this available to engine owners.

Because water treatment compounds cause dissolved minerals to be retained in suspension in the water, the concentration of those minerals will steadily increase during a period of steaming. If the boiler is not regularly blown down, the point will be reached where foaming and eventually priming will occur. The frequency with which a boiler needs to be blown down will be learned by experience but obviously depends upon the quantity of water used and its mineral content. As a general guide, if a boiler is blown down so as to reduce the level in the gauge glass by 2 to 3 inches at the end of a day's steaming, no problems are likely to arise. In soft water areas it may only be necessary to blow down every 2 to 3 days. All engines should be fitted with at least one blowdown valve.

Before blowing down a boiler, the engine should be in a position well away from people, buildings, caravans, etc. and other engines. The boiler pressure should be as low as practicable. A length of old fire hose or similar attached to the blowdown valve will conduct the hot water and sludge well away from the driver and the engine but the end of the hose should be placed where the driver can see it; it should also be pegged down to stop it whipping about. A good blowdown is noisy and quite spectacular and may attract a curious audience, who should be kept at a safe distance.

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It should be noted that engines that are used for only two or three days and have their boilers emptied between rallies, require little in the way of blowing down as the dissolved solids are flushed out when the boiler is emptied.

The blowdown cocks originally fitted to most engines can be difficult to maintain watertight and may have become brittle with age. These may be replaced with modern type valves with the agreement of boiler inspector. The operating handles of these valves should be removed between blow downs to prevent unauthorised or accidental operation.

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Appendix 9 Competency assessment record

Competency Assessment Record Candidate Note: The task being assessed must be satisfactorily explained and demonstrated on three separate occasions. Each assessment must take place on a different day. A failed assessment may be repeated on the same day once the reasons for the original failure have been discussed and any remedial training given. Only tasks assessed as competent will be recorded.

Task Describe and discuss a locomotive type boiler (Section 3) Describe the key elements of a locomotive boiler. Describe its key safety features, critical part and usual Description fittings.

Candidate is able to adequately demonstrate knowledge of a locomotive boiler, is able to name and Criteria describe the use of its key safety features, is able to name and show the location of its critical part, is able to name and describe its usual fittings. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Describe the usual RSE crewing arrangements (Section 2) Describe and discuss the usual crewing arrangements for RSEs in a modern use context. Description

Candidate can demonstrate knowledge as the roles of the various crew members of a RSE as it applies in Criteria to the modern use of engines. Candidate must include a description of roles as it applies to use in a public arena or on the road. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

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Task Describe equipment required to safely operate a RSE (Section 4) Describe and discuss the usual equipment carried on a RSE to ensure its safe and efficient operation. Description Describe and discuss crew PPE, why it is selected and its use. Candidate is able to demonstrate knowledge of equipment, describe its use and proper storage. Candidate Criteria is able to demonstrate knowledge as to why certain PPE should be used. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Assemble (box up) boiler ready for filling Install appropriate mud hole doors, washout plugs and man hole door. Description

Candidate is able to describe the process of boxing up a boiler. Candidate is able to discuss joint types and Criteria their application, is able to describe how to properly fit and tighten a door. Candidate is able to adequately demonstrate this task on one or more doors on the boiler. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Fill boiler with water Fill the boiler with water, add appropriate water treatment, and ensure all doors are water tight. Description

Candidate is able to describe and if possible demonstrate filling a boiler. Candidate must be able to describe or show the correct filling level and explain why. Candidate can describe or if possible Criteria demonstrate how to address a poorly seated door. Candidate can mix boiler treatment and add to the boiler as per the RSE owners instructions Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

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Task Preparation for lighting up (Section 5) Describe, discuss and demonstrate all activities that should be undertaken prior to lighting up a RSE or Description . Candidate is able to adequately describe the activities outlined in Section 5, discuss why they should be Criteria undertaken and to be able to demonstrate the ones relevant at the time of assessment. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Lighting up (Section 6) Light up a RSE or portable engine Description

Candidate can describe the process and discuss the various aspects that need to be considered prior to lighting up and during the process. This includes, but isn't limited to, personal safety and the safety of the Criteria boiler. The candidate can discuss and demonstrate the management of the fire and boiler controls immediately post lighting up. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Raising steam (Section 6) Raising steam from the time the fire is established until the engine is ready for its initial start. Description

Candidate can describe, discuss and demonstrate the process and good practices of bringing an engine into Criteria steam. This may include management of the fire, management of mud hole and man hole doors, management of the damper, general management of the boiler during warm up and steaming. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

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Task Engine Controls (Section 7) Describe and show the location the engine and boiler management controls fitted. Description

Candidate is able to adequately describe the use of all of the controls fitted, both for the motion of the Criteria engine and its travelling gear but also for boiler management (e.g. pump and injector). Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Oiling 'round (Section 8 and Appendix 3 &4) Lubrication of the engine as appropriate for the task it is to undertake. Description

Candidate can demonstrate knowledge of different lubricants and their application, discuss the various Criteria types of lubricators on the engine and their use, develop and show understanding of a lubrication plan including safety considerations, satisfactorily and safely oil 'round, discuss lubrication intervals. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Boiler management (Section 9) Safely manage the boiler and maintain the desired operating pressure over a given time and engine use. Description

Candidate can describe and demonstrate appropriate and safe boiler management practices. This includes management of the water level and the fire, maintaining steam pressure within a defined narrow range Criteria (within 10 to 20 psi) with the engine operating, operating pump and/or injector, damper etc. Consideration must be given to fuel and water needs of the engine. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

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Task Boiler emergencies (Appendix 1) Describe what actions would be taken for given emergency situations. Description Candidate can discuss why a given situation would be considered an emergency and what action should be Criteria taken to mitigate the danger and bring the situation under control. Consideration must be given to personal and public safety as well as that of the boiler or engine. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment 2nd Assessment 3rd Assessment

Task Use and maintenance of the water gauge glasses (Appendix 2) Describe what actions would be taken for given emergency situations. Description

The candidate must be able to describe what the gauge frame is used for and how it operates, discuss the Criteria safety issues associated with gauge frame, demonstrate the quick and independent tests, demonstrate knowledge as to the issues with a partially blocked steam way cock and demonstrate this specific issue. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment 2nd Assessment 3rd Assessment

Task Static operation of the engine (Section 10) Start, stop and run the engine's motion work smoothly and safely. Description

The candidate can describe the motion work and what each component does, can describe the operation of the engine, can detail what safety precautions need to be taken before starting and during operation Criteria and can demonstrate safe operation and management of the engine over a given period of time. This should include starting, stopping and reversing the engine. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment 2nd Assessment 3rd Assessment

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Task Moving a RSE (Section 11) Move a RSE over a given course. Description

Candidate should be able to describe how this task will be undertaken and include a discussion of the safety Criteria issues involved. The course should require a number of starts, stops, reversing and changes of direction. The engine must be operated smoothly, in a gear and at a speed suitable for the conditions. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Steering a RSE (Section 11 a) Steer the engine over a given course. Description

The candidate should be able to describe an appropriate steering technique including communication with the driver and demonstrate ability to safely steer an engine over a given course. This should encompass a Criteria number of changes in direction, corners and reversing. Consideration can be given to setting up stakes as a course to be steered around. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Roading a RSE (Section 11 b) Safely driving a RSE on a public road Description

Candidate must describe and discuss the issues associated with driving a RSE on a public road, including Criteria considerations regarding route, distance, water, fuel, traffic etc. The candidate must demonstrate the skills associated with roading an engine, preferably on a public road. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

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Task Braking (Section 11 c) Safely controlling the speed on a RSE on the road and being able to bring it to a halt at any time. Description

Candidate must be able to describe and discuss the issues associated with safely stopping an engine on the road. This should include a discussion of managing the engine's speed, particularly on downhill runs and Criteria issues associated with traction. If possible the candidate should demonstrate these issues on the road or other suitable area. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Shunting (Section 11 d) Shunting the engine safely onto a load, moving the load and disposing of it. Description

The candidate should be able to describe and discuss the safe methods of shunting, coupling, uncoupling, chocking and disposing of a load. This should include how to give clear and concise directions. The candidate Criteria should demonstrate these skills with an appropriate engine and load, of through a precision exercise if no load is available. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Putting an engine to bed (Section 12) Disposal of the engine at the end of the day. Description

Candidate should describe and discuss what is involved in safely disposing of an engine, taking into consideration whether the engine is to be steamed again the next day or not. The candidate should Criteria demonstrate these skills from the time the decision to put the engine to bed is made until the engine is safe to be left. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

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Task Preparation of an engine for storage (Section 13) Preparing an engine for short, medium or long term storage. Description

The candidate should be able to describe and discuss how to safely prepare an engine for storage, including Criteria blowing down/empty or otherwise emptying the boiler, knocking in the doors, draining the tender, cleaning the ash pan, tubes and smoke box. The candidate should demonstrate these skills. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task Running repairs and fault diagnosis (Appendix 5) Identify mechanical faults and make minor repairs. Description

Candidate should be able to describe and discuss methods of determining simple faults given specific Criteria scenarios provided by the assessor. The candidate should be able to describe and discuss how to remedy basic and common problems. Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task

Description

Criteria Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

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Task

Description

Criteria Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task

Description

Criteria Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

Task

Description

Criteria Date Competent Remarks Assessor Initials 1st Assessment

2nd Assessment

3rd Assessment

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