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d g i u CONTEMPORARY 33 p. Interwar signs in Kaunas 51 p. Active tourism 60 p. 2 p. 39 p. Kaunas lagoon Intro to Kaunas Arts and culture 53 p. regional park 46 p. Water 26 p. attractions 65 p. Museums Festivals and Good to know! events 55 p. 29 p. Castles and Walking trails manors of through history Panemunė

WELCOME TO KAUNAS – the second city of , where you will be welcomed by wonderful sights, unique architecture, a wide range of entertainment, and the unique atmosphere of a student-esque city! Kaunas radiates contemporary the church and turned it into a ware- European attitude and its vast house. The Church was returned to the history. It is strategically the most Bernardine monks in 2005. The church convenient meeting point in the was decorated with baroque wooden in- country! Current architecture, stallations in the 18th century: a pulpit, impressive interwar modernism and organ choir with wooden galleries, and 8 the old town rooftops all altars. Some of them have survived to this complement each other. It‘s day. The church interior is dominated by best to start your trip in the Old Gothic elements and Baroque features. Town – enjoyable experiences There is an operating monastery on the await! south side of the church. INTRO TO KAUNAS > OLD TOWN 1. KAUNAS CASTLE 3. SANTAKA PARK (Pilies g. 17) (Santakos g.) www.kaunomuziejus.lt What we call the heart of Kaunas. Walk- The castle at the confluence of the Ne- ing around it you can see how the Ne- munas and Neris rivers was built in munas and the Neris rivers converge. the 14th century to defend against the Santaka Park has plenty of tourist at- onslaught of crusaders. This is not only tractions: the altar that was used to one of the first stone castles in Lithua- perform pagan rituals, Pope Hill, where nia, but also the only one that has two Pope John Paul II visited and held holy rows of defensive walls. A settlement mass in 1993 and Pope Francis in 2018, a that grew into the current city was statue of John Paul II, St. George’s church created around the Gothic defences. and the Bernardine monastery ensem- Kaunas castle first mentioned in written ble, Kaunas Castle. sources in 1361. According to legend, Queen Bona Sforza’s troops mysteriously 4. KAUNAS TOWN HALL AND disappeared in the tunnels underneath. SQUARE Although it was restored multiple times, (Rotušės a. 15) the castle lost its importance in 1408 www.kaunomuziejus.lt when Kaunas was granted Magdeburg Kaunas was granted the Magdeburg rights rights and the life of the whole city in 1408, which meant the city could have moved to the Market (Town Hall) Square. self-government and control of trade. The castle was home to a prison in the The marketplace and elected government 16th century and the souls of the prison’s (magistrate) headquarters comprised inmates have not found peace to this the nucleus of the city. The main trade very day, haunting the castle still by route went through the current Town night. At present, the castle houses the Hall Square; there was a market, too. Museum of Kaunas and annual cultural Merchants’ families stayed around this events are held in and around it. Near square, building houses and setting up the castle stands an almost 7-meter high shop. When the city joined the Hanseat- bronze sculpture “Freedom Warrior”. ic League, the square became even more 2. ST. GEORGE THE MARTYR important because it operated as a com- CHURCH AND BERNARDINE mercial centre for the city and the sur- MONASTERY rounding area. The square is where trade took place, but also served as the venue (Papilio g. 7, 9) for publication of magistrate rulings and This is one of the oldest churches in the pillory to punish offenders. Artwork Kaunas, open since 1503. St. George the combining three stlistic periods – Gothic, Martyr Church was given to the Bernar- Renaissance, Classicism – stands at 29 Kaunas Old Town is the dine monks settled in the city. The church Town Hall Square. There have been var- oldest part of the city was destroyed by fire and war many times ious premises in the building: a pharma- covering 144 ha. Here you and had to be rebuilt. In 1812 Napoleon’s cy, post office, small workshop, shops, and can easily find Gothic, army turned it into a flour warehouse. residential houses. The most important Renaissance and Baroque The last great reconstruction took place in building in the Town Hall Square is Town style buildings. 1936. Later, the Soviet government closed Hall. Construction began in 1542. The

2 3 termined the bust to be purchased from Hanseatic merchants. Probably most homes were built for commercial affairs, and the name of the Perkūnas House was given to it later to point out Kaunas independence from foreign merchants and pay homage to ancient Lithuanian religious – pagan – traditions. The Ado- mas Mickevičius Museum is also located here; he was one of the most famous romantic poets who lived in Kaunas. INTRO TO KAUNAS > OLD TOWN 7. THE KAUNAS BLESSED VIRGIN MARY OF THE ASSUMPTION CHURCH (AKA THE THE GREAT CHURCH) (Aleksoto g. 3) This is oldest church in Kaunas, built in 1400. It is the only Gothic-style church with a crossshaped plan in Lithuania. According to historians, the Lithuanian Grand Duke Vytautas was beaten up in battle with the Tatars at Vorskla and almost drowned in the river. Upon his rescue, to show his gratitude, Vytau- tas promised the Virgin Mary to build a church on the bank of the river. The Vytautas the Great Bridge church first referred to in documents in 1439, belonged to the Franciscans. The waterfront at the Vytautas church was equipped with a marina so that sail- boats could moor, and later steamers. In stately building is filled with a Gothic, the museum unveiled acommemorative Mickevičius taught and lived. This is 1877 a Nemunas water level gauging sta- Baroque, and early classicist spirit; at all, plaque to Władysław Starewicz, a pup- confirmed by a memorial plaque on the tion was established next to the church. slender tower like a swan’s neck sprouts in pet animation pioneer, often called the school building. At present, the school is The station meter is installed on a the sky the main facade. Town Hall is of- European Walt Disney. Starewicz worked a Jesuit Gymnasium. granite wall. Zero altitude is 20.8 meters ten referred to as the White Swan because in the building for a while. A memorial above sea level. of its shape and colour. Its 53-meter-high plaque to him is held by insect sculptures 6. THE HOUSE OF PERKŪNAS

tower is the tallest in the Old Town. The depicting the director’s three main car- (Aleksoto g. 6) 8. VYTAUTAS THE GREAT BRIDGE current Town Hall is not the first in toon characters: a stag-beetle, an ant, and www.perkunonamas.lt Kaunas. The preceding one was destroyed a grasshopper. Aka the longest bridge in the world. In It is considered to be the only trading order to cross the bridge from one bank by fire and then rebuilt. Through various post in Lithuania that belonged to the centuries, the purpose of the Town Hall 5. THE KAUNAS ST. FRANCIS of the Nemunas to the other took 13 XAVIER CHURCH (JESUIT) Hanseatic merchants. This is an old days, because Kaunas belonged to the changed: this is where the city’s markets, monument to original Gothic architec- fairs, and trials took place; 9 wax melting (Rotušės a. 8) and Aleksotas to the ture, built in the second half of the 15th Prussian kingdom up to 1807. The dif- furnaces, a prison, and warehouses were The south side of Town Hall Square is century. It is a stone building with an ferent sides of the river had different operated under the Town Hall building dominated by a Baroque Jesuit church ornate pediment and a spacious base- calendars, which included a 13-day dif- cobblestones. Currently, the Town Hall with a convent and school buildings ment. The main facade of the building ference. During World War II the bridge holds ceremonies and official events. on either side. Construction of this late is decorated with rectangular niches was blown up twice, only to be reborn At the town hall entrance you can see Baroque style, rectangular, two-tow- and a decorative solar symbol composed in 1948 (architect Levas Kazarinskis); the a unique 15th century wax melting fur- er church began in 1666, but it was of glazed stones. The real purpose of the bridge retraction mechanism is still of nace. Kaunas City Museum is located in only consecrated in 1759. The Jesuit house is unknown. Legend has it that a use today. Having crossed the Nemunas the Town Hall (www.kaunomuziejus.lt). monastery terrace operates a viewing sculpture of the god Perkūnas was dis- you can try the funicular and the climb Its departments accumulate works of platform overlooking the Town Hall covered in one of the walls here and that to the Aleksotas area where you will see city history, science and industry, culture Square and the beauty of Old Town. priestesses kept an eternal flame lit here. a breathtaking panorama of Kaunas. and the arts, and archaeology, as well as Next to the school in the church However, researchers have collected a audiovisual materials. It is symbolic that in 1819-1823, romantic poet Adomas number of items from the house and de-

4 5 9. THE ALEKSOTAS FUNICULAR providing it with income. Other Grand AND OBSERVATION DECK Dukes of Lithuania also cared for the (Amerikos Lietuvių g. 6) parish Church: Aleksandras, Žygiman- Kaunas is the only city in the Baltics tas Senasis, Zigmantas Vaza, Jonas Ka- where you can use this type of transpor- zimieras Vaza, and Stanislovas Augustas tation. It is one of the oldest funiculars Poniatovskis. The church was one of in , in operation since 1935, still the first and oldest brick buildings in used for transport, as well as an attrac- Kaunas. Gothic and Renaissance styles tion. The Aleksotas funicular connects dominate the architecture, and in the the old part of the city with the Alek- interior the most prominent is the Baroque layer with historicism

INTRO TO KAUNAS > OLD TOWN sotas hillside overlooking the beautiful panorama of Kaunas Old Town. (neo-gothic, neo-baroque) and 20th-21st century complements. The Cathedral 10. BENEDICTINE MONASTERY has nine altar. Especially valuable are AND ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH the sacristy’s first and second floor crys- (Benediktinių g. 8) tal vaults. This is a late Gothic decora- tive design, the building of which was The monastery complex is situated in the highest testament of mastery to the northern part of the Old Town in each craftsman who worked on it. This Kaunas, on the Antakalnis hillside. The is one of the most extensive vaults in building complex consists of the church, Europe. The western wall contains the convent, and rectory. The Gothic church grave of Jonas Mačiulis Maironis, priest of St. Nicholas was built in the 15th cen- and poet. Also burried in the chatedral tury. In the beginning of the 17th cen- are Žemaitija bishop Motiejus Valančius, tury, nobleman Andriejus Skorulskis of as well as the first cardinol of Lithuania, The Kaunas St. Peter and St. Paul Cathedral the Grand Duchy of Lithuania appaled Vincentas Sladkevičius. to King Zigmantas (Sigismund) III ask- ing the church to donate to the yet- 12. VILNIAUS GATVĖ ( dence for the President’s family, central learn about the unique and plentiful to-be Kulm Congregation Benedictine STREET) heating was put in, and the second floor Kaunas interwar modernist architec- monastery. During the 18th century, gallery was encased in glass. During the tural heritage, which is a reflection of the Holy Heart of Jesus Brotherhood was It is the central and most beautiful street of the Old Town. It is the oldest presidency of Antanas Smetona, the ter- the intelligentsia, industry, govern- founded at the St. Nicholas Church and ritory of the Presidential Palace was en- ment, and diplomatic institutions that for some time the monastery operated street in the city, part of the former me- dieval road to Vilnius. Following recon- closed with a new fence, which remains once moved here. To this day, Kaunas a school for girls. Until the beginning to this day. The first floor premises at the remains probably the only city in the of the 19th century the monastery was struction it became exclusively pedestri- an and continues to be the axis of the Presidential Palace had been designated world where so many modernist, Ger- wooden; a stone monastery building was for work, and the second floor had two man Bauhaus style buildings were built only built in the 19th century. There was old town. Many of the buildings on the road were wooden. Later came the red- drawing rooms for official receptions. and still stand: the former Lithuanian a refectory on the first floor, as well as Official government delegation recep- Post, Kaunas State Musical Theatre, cells and various utility rooms; on the brick houses of wealthy citizens, some of which have survived to this day. tions took place in the larger one, such Bank of Lithuania, and many others. second floor there were more cells. After as foreign diplomats presenting letters Also on Laisvės Alėja you will see the the closure of the monastery the church 13. HISTORICAL PRESIDENTIAL of credence to the President. Nowadays monument of Vytautas the Great, as well was used as a public library books repos- PALACE the Museum of the Historical Presiden- as a sculpture standing near the foun- itory in 1948-1990. In 1990 the church was tial Palace in Kaunas is located in this tain of Danielius Dolskis, pop song pio- repaired and returned to the faithful; (Vilniaus g. 33) www.istorineprezidentura.lt building. Sculptures of the Presidents neer of the Lithuanian interwar period. the Congregation of Benedictine Sisters of the Republic of Lithuania who there The avenue is full of restaurants, cafés, returned to the monastery. The altar of Construction of the Presidential build- worked can be seen in the courtyard. and cosy shops. Saint Benedict and three 18th-19th cen- ing began in 1846. When Kaunas became tury paintings have survived from the the provisional capital (1919-1939), all the 14. LAISVĖS ALĖJA (FREEDOM 15. ST. GERTRUDE CHURCH old church facilities. political, economic, and cultural life AVENUE) (Laisvės al. 101A) moved here. All three of the then-pres- www.gertrudosbaznycia.lt 11. THE KAUNAS ST. PETER AND idents of the Republic of Lithuania When you visit Kaunas, you must ST. PAUL CATHEDRAL worked and lived in the Presidential walk down this important street in Built in the second half of the 15th cen- (Vilniaus g. 1) Palace: Antanas Smetona, Aleksandras Naujamiestis (New Town), Kaunas, which tury. This is one of the most exclusive www.kaunoarkikatedra.lt Stulginskis, and Kazys Grinius. In 1923- is one of the longest pedestrian streets Lithuanian Gothic monuments. The 1924, during Aleksandras Stulginskis’ in Europe. The street is nearly 1.7 kilo- crucifix sculpture, which has long been This was established by Duke Vytautas meters long and points exactly east and famous for its graces, is the most valu- the Great in about 1413. In 1430 Vytautas presidency, the building was renovated. The first floor was turned into a resi- west. Walking down Laisvės Alėja you able sacred thing at the Church of St. granted funding to the church, will have the unique opportunity to Gertrude. Next to the church in the can-

6 7 dle shrine donors can light candles that burn for 7 days, during which people pray for each other. It teaches compas- TOWN sion even to complete strangers.

16. KAUNAS STATE PHILHARMONIC (L. Sapiegos g. 5) www.kaunofilharmonija.lt The place was built in 1928. It was de-

signed by the architect Edmundas INTRO TO KAUNAS > NEW Frykas. The building is four stories high and is neoclassical style with Art Deco elements. Initially, the building was in- tended only for the Ministry of Justice, but later they decided to house the Sei- mas there too. Currently, national pro- fessional music culture and traditions are nurtured and developed at the Phil- harmonic, Lithuanian and foreign mu- sic is performed, and the world of musi- cal culture is conveyed creatively.

17. CHORAL OHEL YAAKOV SYN- AGOGUE IN KAUNAS (E. Ožeškienės g. 13) www.kaunasjews.lt This is the only surviving synagogue and Jewish prayer house still in operation in Kaunas, built in 1872. The synagogue is called choral, because ceremonies are carried out there accompanied by the choir singing. The reformed choral syn- agogue is a neo-Baroque building. The interior is decorated in typical Jewish art plant and animal motifs. Kaunas synagogue is one of three currently op- erating synagogues in Lithuania (the others are in Vilnius and Klaipėda).

18. COURTYARD GALLERY (E. Ožeškienės g. 21A) More than a decade ago an artist Vyte- nis Jakas moved into a house in this courtyard and noticed that neighbours are distant and fail to remember the shared past of the courtyard. V. Jakas started transferring photos of Jewish families that used to live here on build- ing walls and received great support. One by one other objects appear in the courtyard, new artists leave their mark, neighbours’ celebrations take place, tourists come round. However, let‘s not Kaunas State Philharmonic forget that people who live here have the right to peace and quiet.

8 9 COURTYARD GALLERY – is the only gallery in Lithuania open 24/7. Exhibits are beeing updated ALL THE TIME!

10 11 19. MONUMENT TO VYTAUTAS 21. KAUNAS STATE DRAMA THE GREAT THEATRE TOWN (Laisvės al.) (Laisvės al. 71) In 1930, to commemorate the 500th www.dramosteatras.lt anniversary of the death of Lithuanian The first professional stationary drama Grand Duke Vytautas, a monument theatre in Lithuania, called the Dra- was created by sculptor Vincas Grybas. ma Vaidykla in 1920-1922. The theatre The original soviet era sculpture disap- building became one of the most prom- peared. It was never found, so a copy was inent examples of 20th century social- made. It was erected in 1990. The history ist realism architecture in Lithuania. of Vytautas the Great is a stunning It is represented by a monumental and INTRO TO KAUNAS > NEW example of a political career. By the 14th theatrical decorative facade. There are century, Lithuania had already been at 6 different creative spaces for events at war with the with the Kaunas Drama Theatre. support of the whole of Western Europe for one hundred and fifty years; the 22. CHAMBERS OF THE BANK Crusades were isolating Lithuania from OF LITHUANIA the rest of the Western countries. Jogai- (Maironio g. 25) la introduced Christianity in Aukštaiti- Designed by the architect Michael Son- ja (the Highlands) and began to elimi- gaila in 1924, it is one of the most lux- nate the isolation, but turned control of urious and presentable buildings of the Lithuanian state over to Poland. In interwar Lithuania. Classical elements the year 1409, Vytautas the Great final- of architecture, expensive materials, ly took back Žemaitija (the Lowlands) and works of art testify to the indepen- from the Teutonic Order, which he dent Lithuania’s rising ambitions in the Kaunas State Musical Theatre later christened. The greatest of Vytau- young state’s economic strength and tas’ merits is considered to be routing faith in the country’s future. The third the Teutonic Order at the Battle of Žalgi- floor of the building was Prime Minis- ris () in 1410. Vytautas ter Augustinas Voldemaras’ apartment pictures. The artistic ideas of romanti- warfare from ancient times by noting won global fame as the greatest military with a library, office, formal reception leader of a late medieval battle. cism, symbolism, and Art Nouveau are the most important events in history. hall and bank keepers’ apartments. The interlaced in the works of M. K. Čiurlio- Construction of the museum began in 20. KAUNAS STATE MUSICAL purpose of the chambers of the Bank of nis. The museum contains the creative 1919. At the same time the small garden THEATRE AND THE CITY Lithuania has not changed since their legacy of the most famous Lithuanian was planted honouring those who died GARDEN construction to the present day. composer and painter, M. K. Čiurlionis, for Lithuanian independence. You will Lithuanian folk art and artistic life in find a fieldstone monument to those (Laisvės al. 91) 23. DEVILS MUSEUM Lithuania archives, 15th-20th century who died for the freedom of Lithuania in www.muzikinisteatras.lt (V. Putvinskio g. 64) Lithuanian fine and applied art, foreign this garden. Here stands the altar hold- Lithuanian professional theater arts – www.ciurlionis.lt fine and applied art, arts of the ancient ing lit the eternal flame, the tomb of theatre, opera, and ballet – were born Kaunas is home to the world’s only world, as well as numismatics. Today, the Unknown Soldier, as well as the fa- in the hall of the theater and survived Devils Museum. A collection of more together with M. K. Čiurlionis museum, mous Bernardas Bučas “Sėjikas” (“Seed- there throughout the entire period of than 3,000 devils is kept here. Museum the Military Museum is located in the er”) sculpture, which seeds the night independent interwar Lithuania. The exhibits come from Armenia, Yakutia, same building, only on the opposite side. sky with stars. The “Laisvės” (“Freedom”) first ballet was performed there in Mexico, Cuba, , Japan, and other monument is the focal point of the 1948 and the first opera in 1951. Next countries. 25. THE VYTAUTAS THE GREAT garden and a symbol of the city. In the to the musical theatre is the city gar- WAR MUSEUM garden of the museum you can hear den, which is decorated with busts of 24. M. K. ČIURLIONIS NATIONAL (K. Donelaičio g. 64) belfry carillon bells playing thirty-five Lithuanian composers, artists, and MUSEUM OF ART www.vdkaromuziejus.lt different concerts and admire the singers. There is a monument built in (V. Putvinskio g. 55) wooden crosses memorializing those the garden near Laisvės Alėja in honor The Military Museum collection con- www.ciurlionis.lt who died for the independence of of Romas Kalanta, known for his public sists of archaeological finds, weapons and firearms, ammunition sets, a col- Lithuania (Lithuanian cross crafting self-immolation protesting Soviet re- M. K. Čiurlionis was a globally recognized is a traditional Lithuanian branch of gime in this spot. This act led to demon- Lithuanian painter and composer. His lection of foreign army uniforms, as well as belongings and documents from folk art entered into the UNESCO strations in the city, people demanded creative period lasted only a little more Humanity’s Oral and Intangible freedom for Lithuania. The monument than a decade, but during this time he the Lituanica flight across the Atlantic. The continuously updated expositions Cultural Heritge List in 2001). It features was unveiled in 2002. managed to create more than 400 works a small book smugglers’ garden, the of music and painted more than 300 and exhibitions will enable you to get acquainted with Lithuanian and global “Knygnešys” (“Book Smuggler”)

12 13 monument and wall in honour of the above the head construction that sym- famous book smugglers. bolises hope and lives saved from the TOWN holocaust. 26. ŽALIAKALNIS FUNICULAR (Aušros g. 6) 29. KAUNAS PICTURE GALLERY www.kaunoliftai.lt (K. Donelaičio g. 16) The funicular is a unique vehicle still www.ciurlionis.lt used today with working traction, Established in 1979. This place hosts authentic pre-war wagons, wooden Lithuanian and foreign artists’ exhi- benches, and station houses. Even bitions, educational programs, and a

INTRO TO KAUNAS > NEW today chairlift funicular raises people variety of artistic projects. Most of the up onto the mountain to see best views art and iconography exhibition was do- of the city skyline. You can reach the nated to the city by Prof. Algimantas monumental Resurrection Church from Miškinis. An interesting highlight of the city centre by taking the Žaliakalnis the main hall galleries is the “Juodoji funicular. This is a sort of short skylė” (“Black Hole”) installation by Ay- railway with cables equipped on the O, the famous Japanese artist, who dedi- steep hillside of Žaliakalnis. The funic- cated it to his associate Jurgis Mačiūnas ular railway has been running since (Kaunas-born pioneer of the avant-gar- 1931, accommodates 25 passengers, and de movement). moves 1,4 m/s. The trip takes 1 minute 40 seconds. 30. THE KAUNAS SOBOR, ST. MICHAEL THE ARCHANGEL 27. MONUMENTAL CHRIST’S (GARRISON) CHURCH RESURRECTION CHURCH (Nepriklausomybės a. 14) (Žemaičių g. 31B) A neo-byzantine-style building, stand- www.prisikelimas.lt ing in the eastern part Laisvės Alėja, When Lithuania regained its indepen- was specially designed for the centre dence in 1922, the people of the tempo- of the square. In 1895 Russian Czar Al- rary capital decided to build a church exander III ordered construction of the as a symbol of giving thanks to God for Orthodox Cathedral for the Kaunas the regained freedom. The architect fortress garrison, as a representational Karolis Reisonas designed the church, structure, expressing luxury and official and construction began in 1932 funded status. The Sobor was designed by Rus- by donations; but in 1940 the church sian architects and decorated by Peters- building was seized. Work was already burg artists. In 1919 it was transformed coming to an end when Lithuania lost into a Catholic St. Michael the Archan- its independence, only the interior was gel church garrison. In 1965 the church yet to be installed and the outside was became a stained glass and sculp- not plastered. A radio factory mechani- ture gallery. After the restoration of cal workshop was installed there in 1952. independence, the St. Michael the Arch- The building was returned to the reli- angel Catholic Church is nowoperat- gious community in 1989. The church ing again, and once again the once re- was consecrated just in 2004, 70 years moved crosses are raised high. Church after the beginning of construction. music concerts and performances by actors are often held, and exhibitions are 28. MEMORIAL TO JAN continually on display. ZWARTENDIJK (In front of Laisvės al. 29) In June 2018 on the Freedom Avenue in Kaunas Willem Alexander of the Neth- erlands, Zwartendijk‘s children, Lithua- nian President Dalia Grybauskaitė and a hundred locals and visitors revealed a memorial by Dutch artist Giny Vos. This The Kaunas Sobor, St.Monumental Michael the Christ’sArchangel Resurrection (Garrison) Church light installation is a subtle, hanging

14 15 forms typical architectural features of 37. BOTANICAL GARDEN OF mosques, i.e. an elliptical dome and tall VYTAUTAS MAGNUS UNIVERSITY slimming square tower, or minaret. The (Ž. E. Žilibero g. 6, 5 km from the city Kaunas mosque has only one entrance, centre) but two floors, the second of which is a www. botanika.vdu.lt spacious balcony for women. Men pray The botanical garden, founded in 1923, on the first floor. invites you to a magical introduction INTRO TO KAUNAS to the stunning world of plants. The 34. SUGIHARA HOUSE biggest rosarium in Lithuania, the or- (Vaižganto g. 30, 3.2 km from the city angery that dates back to the interwar centre) period, a mature park of unique beauty www.sugiharahouse.com with romantic bridges, the historical Established in 1999. This was set up surrounding of Aukštoji Freda Manor – through the efforts of Lithuanian and all this comprises a perfect space for Belgian intellectuals and businessmen relaxation and worthwhile activities. to commemorate the Japanese diplomat 38. KAUNAS FORTS Chiune Sugihara. The Japanese Consul- ate operated in the building in 1939-1940. (IX fort: Žemaičių pl. 73, 7 km from the Chiune Sugihara became famous when city centre) www.9fortomuziejus.lt he saved the lives of six thousand Lith- (VII fort: Archyvo g. 61, 3 km from the uanian, Polish, and German Jews during city centre) www.septintasfortas.lt World War II. He issued them lifelong (VI fort: K. Baršausko g., 7 km from the visas to Japan without official Japanese city centre) www.kaunotvirtove.lt government approval. On the eve of the First World War, Kaunas was surrounded by nine forts, batteries, 35. OAK GROVE and other defensive fortifications there. George Mačiūnas Square (Sporto g., 3.6 km from the city centre) The reflects the era’s The Kaunas Oak Grove is the largest in engineering solutions and building opportunities. The Seventh and Ninth 31. MYKOLAS ŽILINSKAS ART 32. GEORGE MAČIŪNAS SQUARE Europe. Its total area is 84.42 ha. Here you can see the “Stumbras” (“Bison”) forts have been adapted for visitors. GALLERY (reconstruction) (Donelaičio g./ Parodos g./ Vytauto pr. sculpture, walk through the valley of They feature museums that present the (Nepriklausomybės a. 12) junction) the poet Adomas Mickevičius, admire history of the fortifications. www.ciurlionis.lt It‘s the first square in the world where the monument to the legendary flight 39. ŽALGIRI0 ARENA The gallery was built in 1989. The gal- pedestrians can‘t get to and that isn‘t of the Lithuanian pilots Darius Steponas lery was named after Mykolas Žilinskas, even visible to them. This idea was and Stasys Girėnas, as well as visit the (Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 50) honoring the significant art collector proposed and executed by painter Nag- “Dainų slėnis” (“Valley of Songs”). The www.zalgirioarena.lt who enriched many Lithuanian art col- lis Rytis Baltušnikas in July 2017. The Oak Grove is a popular place for walks In 2011 Žalgiris arena in Kaunas was lections. The gallery houses the donated square is painted in white paint at and athletics. opened – it is the biggest multifunction- collection of Mykolas Žilinskas, the art the foot of Parodos hill where Parodos al arena in the Baltic states that can ac- he gifted to Kaunas: Ancient Egyptian street, K. Donelaitis street and Vytau- 36. STUMBRAS MUSEUM commodate up to 17 500 people. Various art, 17t-20th century European decora- tas avanue meet. On the road surface (K. Būgos g. 7, 3.2 km from the city events are held here: from basketball, tive-applied art, 17th-18th century Ital- a Fluxus Aztec is drawn showing his centre) handball, volleyball, indoor football, ian paintings, second half of 19th centu- tongue. This particular place was cho- This is a unique opportunity for you body-building, figure skating competi- ry and 20th century Western European sen because Jurgis Mačiūnas lived in the to get acquainted with the history and tions to concerts, theatre performances, paintings, first half of the 20th century house number 1 on Parodos street when evolution of the emergence of Lithua- film festivals, exhibitions and private Baltic paintings and sculptures. Pet- he was a child. He is one of the founders nian alcohol production, as well as the events. There’s also a cosy restaurant ras Mazūras’ famous sculpture, “Man”, of Fluxus movement so the inaccessible subtleties of tasting and the rules. The Sala. Žalgiris arena is the home arena of depicting a naked man stands in the gal- square was named after him. equipment used for the production pro- Kaunas Žalgiris basketball team which lery courtyard. “Man” is clothed during cess, the labels, packaging, and the pro- is the most beloved in Kaunas and the playful promotions and in particular to 33. KAUNAS MOSQUE cess of how Stumbras is produced and most accomplished in Lithuania as well keep from freezing in winter. operating (Totorių g. 6) bottled today are all presented here. as a team that takes part in the highest again, and once again the once removed It is the only stone mosque in Lithua- level European championship. For those, crosses are raised high. Church music nia. Historicist forms and oriental mo- who want to find out more about arena’s concerts and performances by actors tifs highlighting the structure’s purpose architectural solutions, Žalgiris history, are often held, and exhibitions are con- intertwine in the compact, low-volume basketball and fans, excursions are or- tinually on display. mosque. The silhouette of the building ganised.

16 17 Nothing is likely to evoke more excitement and a burst of emotions than a visit to a Euroleague basketball game in Žalgiris Arena. It is an absolute must, when visiting Kaunas! And if your first visit is to a home game of Žalgiris – you are likely to remember it for the rest of your life. Enhance your impression with the package #ZALGIRISVIRGIN. The game schedule and tickets are available at: www.zalgiris.lt

18 19 40. PAŽAISLIS (ST. VIRGIN MARY’S VISIT TO ELIZABETH CHURCH AND CAMALDOLESE ABBEY BUILDINGS) ENSEMBLE (T. Masiulio g. 31, 11 km from the city centre) www.pazaislis.org INTRO TO KAUNAS This is one of the most beautiful ba- roque ensembles in Lithuania. It was built in the 17th century for the Camal- dolese Monastery under the supervision of craftsmen from Florence (Michelan- gelo Palloni, Joan Merli, Pietro Perti). The beauty of the monastery was well- known in Europe. Swedish king Charles XII, as well as the Russian Emperors Alexander I and Nicholas I visited the monastery. International Pažaislis mu- sic festivals take place here every sum- mer since 1996. In the southern part of the complex is a monastery offici- na where you will find an open sacred Pažaislis monastery ensemble museum, and next to it a unique hospitality com- plex is situated in “Monte Pacis“, where you can taste historic monastic dishes with modern interpretations.

Pažaislis ensemble

20 21 44. ŽEMAITKIEMIS – BABTYNAS Akademija in the Kaunas district. MANOR In 1920, Prof. Ivanauskas purchased 8 ha (Žemaitkiemio k., Kauno r., 34 km from land plot from the former Marva man- Kaunas city centre) or, built a residential house and other www.senasdvaras.lt structures and established there the The right bank of the Nevėžis opens a Obelynės botanical garden. The name view to the white roofs of the Žemait- of the garden was derived from the kiemis - Babtynas manor. The manor wild apple trees and hawthorns abun- was established in the 16th c. by the dantly flowering in the slopes. Obelynės Šiukštos family. In the inter-war period, Park covers a territory of about 6.5 ha. the manor was purchased by the gen- The plant collection in the park counts eral Vladas Nagevičius. In 1999, a busi- more than 300 species and forms of nessman, Mindaugas Šventoraitis pur- trees and bushes. The Obelynė Park is chased the manor and started reviving proud of one of the oldest trees on the this precious art and culture centre. In planet – a Ginkgo biloba, and a dawn INTRO TO KAUNAS > KAUNAS DISTRICT INTRO TO KAUNAS > KAUNAS DISTRICT addition to restoring the buildings the redwood growing in the park since 1959. Lithuanian Folk Museum project included the replanting of greenery, flower gardens, and the way- 47. RESORT TERRITORY 41. BIRŠTONAS RESORT of Lithuania in one place. From May to side shrines that had once marked the The resort territory in Kaunas District, (Birštonas, 46 km from Kaunas city September you can even reach the mu- corners of the manor’s territory. Nowa- which embraces Kačerginė, Kulautu- centre) seum by boat. days the manor is a venue for elite art va and partially Zapyškis town, invites Birštonas is one of the oldest and the events – concerts of the Pažaislis music visitors for relaxation. The towns are most beautiful resorts for balneother- festivals, and art planers. The manor joined by cycling paths on both banks of apy in Lithuania which is also famous KAUNAS DISTRICT is famous for its collections of vintage the Nemunas, an opportunity to spend for its royal roots. The resort is rich in transport collections. leisure time in an active way, to admire natural resources – gushing mineral 43. MANOR beautiful views and to learn the objects springs, therapeutic mud, fresh air and ENSEMBLE 45. ZAPYŠKIS OLD CHURCH OF of nature and cultural heritage on the favourable climate. There are spas, cosy (Pilies takas 1, Raudondvaris, Kauno r., ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST way. During the tourism season, there hotels, restaurants and one of the high- 9 km from Kaunas city centre) (Muziejaus g. 1, Zapyškis, Kauno r., is a ferry taking pedestrians and cyclists est observation towers in Lithuania (55 www.raudondvariodvaras.lt 20 km from Kaunas city centre) on the route Zapyškis--Zapy- meters) Located just nine kilometres from In 1578, a voivada Povilas Sapiega, at the škis, whereas the wellness trails of Ku- Kaunas and situated above the river time the owner of large areas of land and lautuva and Kačerginė Trails of Springs 42. LITHUANIAN FOLK MUSEUM Nevėžys is the Raudondvaris manor ar- woods, then built a church at his manor will be perfect for walking in the fresh (L. Lekavičiaus g. 2, Rumšiškės, chitectural ensemble, the palace and in Sapiegiškis that was later renamed air. Kaišiadorių r., 27 km from Kaunas city other residential, outbuildings and a “Zapyškis”. The church today is one of centre) park. The officines, orangery, the stables the oldest brick buildings in Lithuania, www.llbm.lt and an ice-cream parlour within the vi- a unique structure, built in bricks by At the Lithuanian Folk Museum, locat- cinity of the manor which immediately local workers, a specimen of the second ed in the open air Rumsiskes, you will attract every visitor’s attention. In the half of the 16th century gothic architec- find an exposition of 17th-20th century period from the end of the 16th centu- ture. The church has not been used for villages, towns, and estates buildings. ry until the beginning of the 20th cen- religious purposes since the beginning Typical residential and outbuilding ma- tury the manor was owned, managed of the 20th century. In 2002 it was grant- A creative approach to tradition terials have been carried over from all and elaborated upon by noble families ed a status of cultural monument. After and healthy modern food trends. regions of the country to the 174 hectare of Dzievaltaukiai, Kosakovskiai, Rad- completion of its restoration in 2020, the territory to rebuild historically based vilos, Vorlovskiai, Zabielos and Tiškev- church was turned in to a space that is farmsteads and village facilities with ičiai. Currently the manor building better adapted to tourism, concerts, their characteristic small architecture, accommodates rooms and halls used festivals and other cultural events. Ev- as well as plantations. The buildings for high-profile events, concerts, cele- ery year an impressive Kite Festival reveal typical stylistic features, plan- brations and marriage ceremonies. The is held in the vicinity of the church. ning, construction, and decor items Northern section of the manor hous- of different periods and social strata. es the Kaunas Region Museum, where 46. TADAS IVANAUSKAS Farmsteads are grouped into five sec- the former ice cream parlour has been FARMSTEAD IN OBELYNĖ tors according to ethnic region: Žemai- turned into the Kaunas district tour- (Obelynės g. 8, Akademija, Kauno r., tija, Aukštaitija, Dzūkija, Suvalkija, and ism and business information centre, 9 km from Kaunas city centre) and the restored stables were adjusted Mažoji Lietuva (Lithuania Minor). The Obelynė Park – a botanical park Restaurant Plomo, for art incubator activities next to most typical regional villages and farm- established by naturalist and Profes- Laisvės al. 15, Kaunas stead types have been rebuilt. That is all the restaurant opened in the former sor Tadas Ivanauskas in his farmstead www.plomocafe.lt orangery.

22 23 M. K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art is the only place in the world that olds almost the whole collection of Lithuanian composer and painter M. K. Čiurlionis works.

24 25 11. Mikas and Kipras Petrauskas 28. Kaunas Ninth Fort Museum House (K. Petrausko g. 31) (Žemaičių pl. 73) www.9fortomuziejus.lt

12. Juozas Gruodis House 29. Kaunas Tadas Ivanauskas MUSEUMS (Salako g. 18) Museum of Zoology (Laisvės al. 106) www.zoomuziejus.lt 13. Folk Music branch 30. Lithuanian Aviation Museum (L. Zamenhofo g. 12) www.kaunomuziejus.lt (Veiverių g. 132) www.lam.lt 31. Museum of the History of 14. Maironis Lithuanian Literature Lithuanian Education Museum (Rotušės a. 13) and its subdivisions: (Vytauto pr. 52) www.lsim.lt 32. The House of Perkūnas 15. House-Museum of B. and V. (Aleksoto g. 6) www.perkunonamas.lt Sruogos (B. Sruogos g. 21) 33. Pažaislis Monastery Museum 16. J. Grušas House-Museum Exposition (Kalniečių g. 93) (T. Masiulio g. 31) www.pazaislis.org 17. J. Tumas-Vaižgantas Apart- 34. Sugihara House ment-Museum (Vaižganto g. 30) (Aleksoto g. 10-4) www.sugiharahouse.com 18. House-Museum of S. Nėris and 35. Stumbras Museum B. Bučas (S. Nėries g. 7) (K. Būgos g. 7) Kaunas City Museum, Folk Music branch 19. Museum of Children’s Literature www.stumbras.lt (K. Donelaičio g. 13) 36. Atomic Bunker www.maironiomuziejus.lt (Raudondvario pl. 164A) www.atominisbunkeris.lt 20. Vytautas the Great War Museum (K. Donelaičio g. 64) and its 37. Jewellery (Gemmology) When traveling in Kaunas, visit at least a few museums. subdivisions: Museum Besides the permanent expositions you will also see continually (Kurpių g. 13) www.dusafyrai.com changing exhibitions. History, art, memorial, and other sorts of 21. Underground "AB" Printing museums all make it possible to get acquainted with the city House 38. Museum of the History of Lith- and region’s culture and history, broaden your horizons, and (Salių k., Domeikavos sen., Kauno r.) uanian Medicine and Pharmacy have a good time! www.vdkaromuziejus.lt (Rotušės a. 28) www.lsmuni.lt 39. Exposition “To the 100th Anni- 22. Kaunas District Museum MUSEUMS IN KAUNAS: versary of Establishing Diplomacy” (Pilies takas 1, Raudondvaris, Kauno r.) and its subdivisions: (K. Donelaičio g. 58) 1. National M. K. Čiurlionis Art 6. A. and P. Galaunė 40. Valdas Adamkus Presidential Museum (V. Putvinskio g. 55) House-Museum (Vydūno al. 2) 23. Traditional Crafts Centre Library-Museum and its subdivisions: (Raguvos g. 66, Biliūnų k., Kauno r.) (S. Daukanto g. 25) 7. L. Truikys and M. Rakauskaitė 24. A. and J. Juškai Ethnic Culture www.adamkuslibrary.lt 2. Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery House-Museum (reconstruction) Museum (E. Fryko g. 14) 41. The Kaunas Archdiocese (Nepriklausomybės a. 12) (Kauno Mažoji g. 2, , Kauno r.) Museum (M. Valančiaus g. 6) 8. J. Zikaras House-Museum 3. Kaunas Picture Gallery 25. Ethnography Museum www.kaunoarkivyskupija.lt/kam (J. Zikaro g. 3) (Nevėžio g. 3, Babtai, Kauno r.) 42. The Kaunas Puppet Theatre (K. Donelaičio g. 16) www.ciurlionis.lt 26. Tadas Ivanauskas farmstead in Museum 4. A. Žmuidzinavičius Creation (Laisvės al. 87A) and Collections Museum/Devils 9. Kaunas City Museum Obelynė www.kaunoleles.lt Exposition (Rotušės a. 15) and its branches: (Obelynės g. 8, Akademija, Kauno r.) 43. Lithuanian Sports Museum www.krmuziejus.lt (V. Putvinskio g. 64) 10. Kaunas Castle (Muziejaus g. 7, 9) www.lietuvossportomuziejus.lt 5. Historical Presidential Palace (Pilies g. 17) 2 7. Seventh Fort of the Kaunas (Vilniaus g. 33) Fortress (Archyvo g. 61) www.septintasfortas.lt

26 27 The settlement of the Nemunas reconstruction, complete Town Hall re- and Neris rivers, from which construction in 1781, Guest house was Kaunas arose, was first mentioned built in 1786, which can be called and in 1361. Then they built the castle the first hotel in the city, the city build- here to defend against the attacks ings were numbered in 1792, and bridges of the Teutonic Order, which were built over the Nemunas and Neris turned out to be vital not only for in 1794. the city but also for all of Unrest continues Lithuania. Kaunas fell to Czarist Russia after the third division of Lithuania and Poland Historians believe that early as 1408 in 1795. In 1801 another great fire rav- Lithuanian Grand Duke Vytautas grant- aged the city. Kaunas found itself in the ed Kaunas Magdeburg rights. It was midst of the Franco-Russian War of 1812. WALKING TRAILS THROUGH HISTORY on the basis of these rights that the The French Emperor Napoleon Bona- city formed its first council, a privilege parte himself moved his hundreds-of- which was later confirmed by all of the thousands-strong Grand Army over the Grand Dukes of Lithuania. A favourable Nemunas near the city. Kaunas was the geographical location played a signif- first city occupied by the French impe- icant role in the growth of Kaunas, as rial army in this war. It was devastated well as the waterways, Nemunas and twice during the war when the Grand Neris, which allowed the city merchants Army marched into town and during to gradually enter into trade with Dan- their retreat. zig, Toruń, and Konigsberg. From the 15th century Kaunas had customs au- Towards a modern city thorities that regulated all national In 1843 Kaunas became the centre of the trade over water and land routes with newly established province. Nicholas Av- neighbouring Prussia. Kaunas experi- enue started to turn into a boulevard in enced an economic boom in the 16th 1847 (what is now Laisvės Alėja). A rail- century. The first school, hospital-shel- way line built, as well as the first mod- ter and a pharmacy, and craftsmen ern railway bridge over the Nemunas workshops were launched here. An in 1862, and the first power plant was abundance of brick buildings in Kaunas launched in 1898. The Czarist govern- distinguished it from most of the other ment resolution regarding transfer of cities in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania the Žemaičiai (Telšiai) Bishopric centre at the end of century. In the first half of from Varniai to Kaunas in 1864 bright- the 17th century it was surrounded by a ened the city’s cultural life. Kaunas am- stone wall. Still, there were the mid-17th ateur Reading Society was founded in century wars and the six-year Russian 1870, which established the first public czarist military occupation (1655-1661), library in the city, but any proactive cul- because of which many of the towns tural expression was affected by Russian people were forced to flee to Prussia, and policies, which inhibited any national during which a fever epidemic struck activities. Kaunas was awarded Class a huge blow to the welfare of Kaunas. I fortress status by the Russian impe- The recovering Kaunas was once again rial border military in 1879. From 1882 smacked down by the Northern War until the First World War Kaunas was (1700-1721). In 1732 a great fire ravaged surrounded by fortifications, forts, and the city. Urban development was slowed a ring of batteries (an orthodox church by political turmoil in the state and the and military garrison sobor devoted to frequent presence of the Russian impe- the Russian soldiers in Kaunas was built rial army crew (1734, 1735, 1748, and 1767- in 1895). The Konke horse-drawn tram 1775). began operating under contract with A flourishing town Swiss engineer Diuponu in Kaunas in 1892, a line stretching from the Town You could see signs of the city’s recovery Hall Square to the railway station. A 500 seen in the second half of the 18th cen- person occupancy city theatre was also tury. It continued through the 1732 fire built that same year. that severely affected the parish church

28 29 Žemieji Šančiai and Aukštoji Panemu- nė. Soldiers’ spiritual affairs were not forgotten: the Saints Peter and Paul Sobor was built in 1891-1895. Construc- tion of the eighth fort began the right bank of the Neris River in 1889. The newest and most modern ninth fort arose in the highlands northwest of Kaunas in 1903-1913. This is the first and only surviving fort of the Kaunas Fortress; they used masonry concrete for its construction. The plan to

WALKING TRAILS THROUGH HISTORY reinforce the fortress was approved WALKING TRAILS THROUGH HISTORY 23 April 1913. It provides for the construction of an additional 12 forts and 12 base stations forming a second, larger, 47.17 km long fortifi- cation ring around the city. All work stopped on 28 July 1914, with the beginning of the First World War. Before the war, there was enough time There is a three part to fully complete the construction sculpture rose in front of of nine forts and ten batteries. The the IX Fort – it is a Russian Empire’s 1st class terrestrial monument to Nazi victims. Kaunas Fortress was occupied by on 18 August 1915. Forts today Kaunas – the temporary capital of the University of Lithuania was estab- Alexander II signed a decree on the Lithuania Since the end of the war and the lished, which was renamed Vytautas construction of the Kaunas fortress restoration of Lithuania’s indepen- During the First World War, Kaunas was Magnus University in 1930. The first in 1879, and by February 1880 long- dence, Kaunas Fortress has never again occupied by Germans in 1915-1918. After national Olympiad took place in Kaunas term fortification plans were drawn been used for its original purpose. The the First World War, Lithuania began to in 1938, and the European basketball up. The city was surrounded by 7 forts administrative buildings of Kaunas build the Republic and because Vilnius championship was organized in 1939, for and a stationaryring of 12 batteries. Fortress were taken over by Lithuanian was occupied by the Russians (1919), the which a sports hall accommodating five Two years later, 24 April 1882, Kaunas state institutions and used for various State Council and the Cabinet of Minis- thousand people was built. The Russian fortress construction officially began. other purposes: a prison, warehouses, ters were established in Kaunas. When army occupied Lithuania in June 1940. The forts were built in several stages: archives, residents of apartments, etc. Vilnius was occupied by Poland, Kaunas During the Second World War, the first a road was laid to the fortifica- During World War II Lithuania was became the temporary capital and most Soviet army occupied Kaunas in 1944. tion the location where the work was occupied by Nazi Germany, and the important city of Lithuania in 1920. The The second Soviet occupation began. to be carried out, including building fourth, seventh, and ninth forts were same year came the Constituent Assem- After the restoration of Lithuania’s barracks, gunpowder warehouses, and used for the mass murder of civilians. bly met and laid the legal foundations independence in 1990, Kaunas opened other facilities. Construction of one Today Kaunas residents and guests for restored state. Kaunas remained up for development and cooperation fort took about 3-5 years. In addition to are invited to get acquainted with the temporary capital until 1939. Hav- opportunities with foreign cities. the forts and batteries, construction of these massive objects of defence – the ing become the political, cultural, and central fortifications and the Kaunas Fortress – as well as the history economic centre of the country, Kaunas central warehouses on both banks of the of the seventh and ninth forts and the came to life a little, taking on moder- THE HISTORY OF KAUNAS Nemunas began in 1885. Outside the museums operating there. nity and Europeanism in the interwar FORTRESS ring of forts, the fortress infrastructure period. The city was decorated by new was built: commandant headquarters, buildings (Kaunas interwar architec- Seventh Fort Museum Two of the largest Lithuanian rivers intendant office, main headquarters, Archyvo g. 61 ture), the old ones were renovated, and are situated in Kaunas; they have long board of engineers and engineering www.septintasfortas.lt bridges were built. Buses started run- played an important role in defence. headquarters, residential houses of ning in 1929. The city began to operate The exceptional strategic position of officials and construction workers, Ninth Fort Museum the Žaliakalnis and Aleksotas funicu- this place was appreciated by Russians telephone-telegraph, electricity, water Žemaičių pl. 73 lars improving transportation connec- taking over Lithuanian lands as far supply stations, military, railway www.9fortomuziejus.lt tions in 1931 and 1935. The opera the- back as 1795. Ever deteriorating relations stations, elevators, mill, grain storage, atre opened in 1920. Two years later the with neighbours forced us to consider war pigeons station, fire station, and Kaunas Fortress Park national theatre opened. Also in 1922 strengthening our western border. Czar harbours. Military towns grew in www.kaunotvirtove.lt

30 31 EUROPE STARTS IN KAUNAS OF 1919-1940

The interwar architecture is a tion, the city formed a mental identity Kaunas city icon. The city became and a physical face. This is only the sec- Lithuania‘s centre in the first part ond architectural period (not counting of the twentieth century and is still EUROPEAN baroque) when Lithuanian architecture HERITAGE LABEL modern and forward-thinking. went hand in hand with the whole of Europe. An abundant Kaunas interwar After the First World War, with the res- architecture accumulated over 20 years, toration of Lithuania’s statehood, and its dense concentration in the city is a INTERWAR SIGNS IN KAUNAS due to other historical circumstances, unique phenomenon in Europe; in the Kaunas became the most important context of international modernism city in Lithuania. Public authorities and it reflects both the then Bauhaus style the intelligentsia rallied in Kaunas. In- trends and unique style of Lithuanian dustry began to develop. Kaunas took nationalism which distinguishes a mod- over the helm of the national capital ern, highquality Kaunas interwar archi- and became a modern symbol of inde- tecture from the European mainstream. pendent Lithuania. Thankful circum- stances also contributed to this: society INTERWAR BUILDINGS: was ready for change; the city needed various buildings, but they could only 1. The Central Building of former be designed by talented, gifted, learned Lithuanian Post Office architects who had studied abroad and brought their knowledge back to Lithu- (Laisvės al. 102) ania to put to work. In carrying out the 2. Kaunas State Musical Theatre functions of the state capital in the first (Laisvės al. 91) half of the 20th century, Kaunas sud- denly acquired a unique significance on 3. Kaunas City Municipal Building the map of Europe. The architects of our (the former Savings Bank) young state harmoniously integrated (Laisvės al. 96) into the European context by developing 4. Kaunas State Philharmonic an advanced city. Individual buildings, (formerly the Ministry of Justice neighbourhoods, and complexes had and Seimas (Parliament) Building) a major impact on the entire city im- (L. Sapiegos g. 5) age emerging in the temporary capital. Kaunas became the centre of science, 5. Chambers of the Bank of culture, and education: institutions Lithuania (Maironio g. 25) such as the University of Lithuania, 6. The complex of buildings on the Art School, higher education phys- V. Putvinskio street ical education courses, theatres, opera (V. Putvinskio g. 52, 54, 56, 60, 62, 64, 66, houses, the radio, the Military Museum, and the astronomical observatory were 68, 70, 72) established. Industry developed rapidly 7. M. K. Čiurlionis National Art in Kaunas, there was an active Europe- Museum and The Vytautas the Great War Museum The unique modernist an lifestyle about, and great attention was paid to culture and sport. In this (V. Putvinskio g. 55) architecture of Kaunas regard, the sports hall was built in 1939, 8. Žaliakalnis Funicular (1919–1940) got the where the Lithuanian men’s basketball European Heritage Label team won the European Championship (Aušros g. 6) in 2015. European Heritage title for the second time, as if hanging 9. Jesus Christ’s Resurrection Label is a European Union a wreath around the neck of Kaunas. Basilica in Kaunas initiative that seeks to This transformation of Kaunas into a (Žemaičių g. 31) hallmark the historical and European city left a significant mark in cultural heritage sites and later Lithuanian state development: due 10. Jonas Jablonskis High School their importance to to the country’s willingness to fight for (formerly an elementary school) Europe and European freedom, break out of the Soviet occupa- (Aušros g. 3) Union‘s creation.

32 33 11. The Former Headquarters of the 18. The Kaunas Children’s Pienocentras Company Recreation Centre (formerly the (Laisvės al. 55/S. Daukanto g. 18) Neo-Lithuania Centre) 12. The Former Office of Pažanga (Parodos g. 26) AB (Laisvės al. 53) 19. Lithuanian Academy of Physical Education 13. Romuva Movie Theatre (Sporto g. 6) (Laisvės al. 54) 20. Sports Hall 14. Officers club

INTERWAR SIGNS IN KAUNAS (Perkūno al. 5) (A. Mickevičiaus g. 19) 21. Kaunas City Museum, Mikas 15. The Jonas and Gediminas and Kipras Petrauskas House Lapėnas Apartment Building (K. Petrausko g. 31) (Kęstučio g. 38) 16. Lithuanian University of Health Sciences, Medical Academy (A. Mickevičiaus g. 9) 17. Jonas Basanavičius, MD, Military Medical Service (Vytauto pr. 49)

Utenos g.

24 WOODEN ARCHITECTURE IN OBJECTS: 2 km KAUNAS 22. Architect Antanas Jokimas The tradition of wood construction was Villa (Minties Rato g. 2) widespread in Lithuania. Many old rural homes and wooden church have been 23. Soldier Antanas Gedmantas House 29 studied. Trees were a popular building (Žemuogių g. 2) Žemaičių g. material in interwar Kaunas because 24. Composer Juozas Gruodis Villa 10 masonry construction costs were too 9 23 (Salako g. 18) 22 high for many home owners. Today 21 6 the wooden architecture of the city is 25. Entrepreneur Pranas Urbonas 8 25 27 perceived as an aesthetic and ethical Villa (Žemaičių g. 20) 7 value. Wooden architecture experts see 30 32 4 26. Construction technician Jonas 5 19 the value of the houses; they discover it 11 km Varneckis Villa Šv. Gertrūdos g. 1 3 18 (Sietyno g. 17) 13 on the educational tours of Žaliakalnis, 20 Panemunė, Šančiai, and Vilijampolė as 27. Juozas and Stasė Geniušas Villa 11 12 Vaižganto g. well. For heritage lovers, the intrinsic 2 14 Perkūno al. (Tulpių g. 21) 15 value of wooden houses is indisputable. Without these houses the city would 28. Barbora and Kazys Zukauskas Villa (A. Smetonos al. 81) 16 lose a very important part of its Vaižganto g. K. Būgos g. cultural identity. Unfortunately, only a 26 29. Educator Jonas Dereškevičius small portion of the inter-war wooden 3.5 km House (Minties Rato g. 24) houses passed the test of time and 17 resisted the social and economic 30. General-doctor Pranas temptations, but they keep alive the Vaiciuška Villa interwar Kaunas suburban spirit. (J. Janonio g. 46, Kačerginė, Kauno r.) 31. Engineer Viktoras Rėklaitis Villa (Janonio g. 86, Kačerginė, Kauno r.) 32. Writer Pranas Mašiotas House (Janonio g. 38, Kačerginė, Kauno r.)

28 3.5 km

34 35 3. Former Ministers Cabinet of the 16. Polish Embassy Lithuanian Republic (Kęstučio g. 38) (K. Donelaičio g. 58) 17. British Embassy and Consulate 4. Ministry of Foreign Affairs (Kęstučio g. 29) (1919-1922) (Maironio g. 27) 18. Finnish Consulate 5. Ministry of Foreign Affairs (Kęstučio g. 8) (1922-1935) (S. Daukanto g. 25) 19. German Embassy 6. Ministry of Foreign Affairs (Gedimino g. 19) (1935-1940) 20. Danish Embassy (Corner of K. Donelaičio g./ Vienybės a.) (Vytauto pr. 55/Griunvaldo g. 2) 7. United States Consulate and 21. Latvian Embassy Embassy (V. Putvinskio g. 68) (Vytauto pr./Kęstučio g.) 8. Czechoslovak Embassy and the Argentine Consulate 22. Italian Embassy (V. Putvinskio g. 60) (Vydūno al. 13) 9. Swedish Consul General 23. Japanese Consulate (V. Putvinskio g. 60) (Vaižganto g. 30) 10. Papal Nunciature Building (V. Putvinskio g. 56) INTERWAR SIGNS IN KAUNAS > THE ERA OF DIPLOMATIC KAUNAS 11. Honorary Consulate of Hungary Lithuania Presidential Palace (V. Putvinskio g. 54)

22 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Historical circumstances led to bly of Lithuania gathered in the cap- 3 the 1919-1940 period being named 4 ital, Kaunas, for its first meeting on 15 6 the era of diplomacy in Kaunas. 5 Parodos g. May 1920, in the the State Theatre, the 2 15 current Musical Theater. The country’s 1 14 Vaižganto g. Thanks to historical circumstances, most important institutions operated Perkūno al. 16 Kaunas became the temporary capital in Kaunas, among them the 18 of the reborn State of Lithuania (1918). Lithuanian Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 17 21 Lithuania took the first steps to which had a critical challenge to estab-

nationhood there: the country’s most lish diplomatic relations with foreign K. Būgos g. 23 important institutions and foreign countries and represent Lithuania in 19 20 Vaižganto g. diplomatic missions were founded. the international arena. Diplomatic Kaunas was never officially ratified missions gradually began to settle here. in writing as the temporary capital. First of all the diplomatic missions In diplomatic terms, Kaunas became of the great powers visited Kaunas – the de facto capital of Lithuania the US, Britain, and – and later when the provisional government permanent embassies and consulates moved to here from Vilnius on 2 Jan- of these and other countries settled in. uary 1919. That same year, the cen- These government agencies and 12. Trade Embassy tral street of the town was renamed foreign representative offices operated (V. Putvinskio g. 42) Laisvės Alėja (Freedom Avenue), and in Kaunas in 1939: 13. French Embassy a street abutting it in honor of Feb- ruary 16th. And the streets still have 1. Lithuania Presidential Palace (V. Putvinskio g. 14) those names today. The first president (Vilniaus g. 33) 14. Honorary Consulate of in the history of Lithuania was elected 2. Lithuanian Seimas Chambers (Nepriklausomybės a. 7) in Kaunas. On 4 April 1919, in Kaunas, the Council of Lithuania elected Anta- (Gimnazijos g. 3) 15. Metropolis Hotel nas Smetona. The Constituent Assem- (S. Daukanto g. 21)

36 37 KAUNAS – UNESCO DESIGN tus. 2017 Kaunas modernism architec- CITY ture application “Kaunas 1919-1939: The Capital Inspired by the Modern Move- Launched in 2004, the UNESCO Creative ment” was put on the Tentative List of Cities Network (UCCN) aims to strength- UNESCO World Heritage Convention. en cooperation with and among cities Cities of Design Network

that have recognized creativity as a stra- Design network includes such cities CULTURE AND ARTS tegic factor of sustainable development throughout the world, as Montreal (Can- as regards economic, social, cultural ada), Kobe (Japan), Helsinki (Finland), and environmental aspects. By joining Detroit (USA), Bilbao (Spain), Singapore the Network, cities acknowledge their (Singapore), (Germany), Bandung commitment to sharing best practices, (Indonesia), Puebla (Mexico), Budapest developing partnerships that promote (Hungary), Curitiba (Brasil), Buenos Aires creativity and the cultural industrines, (Argentina), Shanghai (China), Nagoya strengthening participation in cultural (Japan), Seoul (South Korea), Saint-Éti- life and integrating culture in urban enne (France), Dundee (Scotland), Torino development plans. (), and Graz (Austria).

EUROPEAN HERITAGE LABEL

The European Heritage Label in Kaunas The UNESCO Creative Cities Network In 2015 Kaunas was awarded the Europe- covers seven Creative fields: Crafts and an Heritage Label which acknowledged Folk Arts, the phenomenon of Kaunas becoming a Design, Film, astronomy, Literature, temporary capital in the period of 1919- Media Arts and Music. In December, 2015 1940 as relevant to the whole Europe. Kaunas has joined the UNESCO Creative The European Heritage Label was placed Cities Network and became the first city on 44 buildings of modernist architec- in Eastern and Western European coun- ture of this period in the city. tries that received the Design City Sta-

More than 6000 buildings in Kaunas embody the spirit of interwar modernism. Unique historical windows and other small architectural details catch the eye of every passerby.

38 39 ARTS AND CULTURE AND ARTS CULTURE AND ARTS

KAUNAS – THE EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE 2022 and inviting all the residents of the city and its district as well as guests to closely “ K a u n a s – E u r o p e a n C a p i t a l o f C u l t u r e 2 0 2 2 “ Kaunas in the contest for European Cap- integrate into the cultural life and to be- In 2022 the eyes of Lithuania and Eu- ital of Culture, sounded “From Tempo- come active developers of the city mak- rope will be on Kaunas – it will become rary to Contemporary“. Therefore, the ing it a good place to live for everybody. the European capital of culture. This main goal of “Kaunas – European Capital title includes an invitation for Kaunas of Culture 2022” focuses on the change: to jointly create the city of future and from the city living with nostalgia for More information about the programme: its cultural life, to reveal own unique- the past to a growing and open one www.kaunas2022.eu ness to Europe and the world, to en- where confidence in future is generated. Facebook: kaunas2022 hance the link with other European “Kaunas – European Capital of Culture Instagram: kaunas2022 cultures discovering them in Kaunas. 2022” has been creating an internation- LinkedIn: kaunas2022 The idea, which earned this title to al cultural programme of highest level #kaunas2022

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V g Kometų Kaunas is a city surrounded by an exclusive aura becoming the European Capital of Culture in 2022. Art and creativity are accompanying Kaunas on several levels: music, theatre, dance, design, and many others.

The city constantly encourages the development of both public and private spaces. Explore the wide range of cultural facilities and projects, from works of art turned into buildings, to galleries, interior design, bohemian cafes, etc. A variety of events will also surprise you. If you just plan your visit you will have a good time! FESTIVALS AND EVENTS AND FESTIVALS Full of new sensations and discoveries, life in Kaunas is a modern and youthful gen- erator of culture so everyone who loves art in Kaunas will find his own corner. Every year Kaunas adds to immense events spaces. We look forward to seeing you at our well-established and brand new festivals! Certainly, this will contribute to the ambi- tion of Kaunas Modernist Interwar Architecture to join UNESCO World Heritage List. ART GALLERIES PLACES OF EVENTS

Meno Parkas Gallery Kaunas State Philharmonic (Rotušės a. 27) www.menoparkas.lt (L. Sapiegos g. 5) Kaunas Photo Gallery www.kaunofilharmonija.lt (Rotušės a. 1 / Vilniaus g. 2) Kaunas State Musical Theatre www.kaunasgallery.lt (Laisvės al. 91) www.muzikinisteatras.lt VDU 101 Gallery Kaunas State Drama Theatre (Muitinės g. 7) www.galerija101.lt (Laisvės al. 71) www.dramosteatras.lt Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery “Žalgirio“ Arena (reconstruction) (Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 50) (Nepriklausomybės a. 12) www.zalgirioarena.lt www.ciurlionis.lt/zilinsko Raudondvaris Manor Arts Incubator Kaunas Picture Gallery (Pilies takas 1, Raudondvaris, Kauno r.) (K. Donelaičio g. 16) www.ciurlionis.lt www.raudondvariodvaras.lt Art Form (Savanorių pr. 166) www.menoforma.lt

44 45 FESTIVAL-COMPETITION CYCLE April “KAUNAS CANTAT” www.kaunascantat.lt "KAUNAS JAZZ" The largest choral festival where high www.kaunasjazz.lt professionalism of various styles of cho- The Kaunas Jazz Festival has been or- ral music is delivered to the audience. ganized each spring for more than two decades inviting music fans to listen to EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF the most prominent Lithuanian and CULTURE FORUM foreign jazz stars. The majority of urban www.kaunas2022.eu spaces are filled with the spirit of jazz, The Forum is an annual event initiated so spring is not only outside, but also in and organised by the team of “Kaunas people’s hearts. Every last weekend in – European Capital of Culture 2022”, to April this celebrations break free from which the leaders representing various the city that seems unable to contain it; creative fields from all around Europe it is an international jazz scene at the come together for gaining and sharing Lithuanian jazz capital. knowledge, getting inspiration, networ- KAUNAS MARATHON king and discussing the opportunities for cooperation www.kaunasmarathon.lt The event attracts thousands of parti- NEIGHBORHOOD FEAST cipants all over the world regardless of www.kaunas2022.eu their age, profession, beliefs or physical KAUNAS SCHOOLCHILDREN preparation. This is a sports festival, Imagine bringing your dinner tableto SONG FESTIVAL March the longest pedestrian street in the which aims to unite residents of the www.vmlr.lt city and sports enthusiasts, to promote region and sitting down for a pleasant DAY OF HAPPINESS The festival features performances of social and physical activity, to establish evening with neighbours and friends various arts genres uniting children and www.kaunas2022.eu healthy lifestyle traditions in Lithuania. you‘ve just met. That‘s possible every youth choirs, instrumental ensembles, In 2012 the General Assembly of the Uni- May in Laisvės Alėja, thanks to the folk and modern dance groups where ted Nations designated International artist Vytenis Jakas whose projects aim as many as a few thousand students Day of Happiness, which is celebrated for a happier community. May participate annually. on 20th March all over the world. Since 2018 the team of “Kaunas 2022” has be- "DESIGN WEEK" KAUNAS BIRTHDAY come ambassadors of happiness in our www.kaunas.lt www.dizainosavaite.lt May–July city. The first year the entire city turned Traditionally, on the first week of May The biggest city festival, which is cele- yellow and was happy from the early INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL five Lithuanian cities Vilnius, Kaunas, brated loudly and to the fullest eve- morning, when we did sports in the ra- “OPERETĖ KAUNO PILYJE” Klaipėda, Šiauliai and Telšiai, plunge ry May. The medieval traditions and ilway station to the dusk, when the re- respect for own environment as well as (OPERETTA IN KAUNAS CASTLE) cord of happiness decibels was broken in into a design fiesta, during which guests heritage are in harmonious alignment www.operetta.lt Žalgiris Arena. In 2019 we talked loudly are invited to take part in workshops, visit exhibitions, draw on expertise with the 21st century values and innova- This is the first operetta festival in about happiness as a right for everyone. tions. The amphitheatre of Kanas Castle What’s next? and share at international conferences; Eastern Europe, with most beautiful meanwhile developers present their will turn into the epicentre of the birth- performances by singers, musicians and latest work. day festival and its events will spread in orchestras from a variety of European the whole old town. countries. KITE FESTIVAL “KITES FOR EARTH AND SKY“ May–August The kite festival is held every spring in Zapyškis, next to the Gothic church in the Nemunas valley. The programme "PAŽAISLIS MUSIC FESTIVAL" of the festival includes working kite www.pazaislis.lt workshops, kite and plane competitions, The best world-renowned musicians large kite shows and other fun activities from classical, old music, jazz, and plen- for the entire family. ty of other project-based music and even more excitement throughout the summer invite you to experience the Pažaislis Music Festival!

46 47 FESTIVALS AND EVENTS AND FESTIVALS

June

CONTEMPORARY CIRCUS FESTIVAL “CIRKULIACIJA” www.cirkuliacija.lt This festival presents the youngest kind of performing arts, which combines performing, dancing, physical theatre and circus. . September

July “KAUNAS PHOTO“ September–October www.kaunasphoto.com BARD FESTIVAL “ACACIA ALLEY“ "KAUNAS INTERNATIONAL FILM November The Kaunas Photo Festival is the largest This Singing poetry festival brings to- FESTIVAL" and most important photography event MODERN MUSIC FESTIVAL gether the most famous and talented www.kinofestivalis.lt in the Baltics. The most frequented pho- “IŠ ARTI” (FROM CLOSE) bards of the country ranging from win- tography project takes place in a wide Film art development trends are re- ners of youth contests to scene mas- www.isarti.lt range of outdoor and indoor spaces. It is flected in the most interesting of recent ters, guests from foreign countries and Presentation of the works of modern organized every year in Kaunas. international film successes all over the notorious ‘aliens’ from the rock, blue, world and in Lithuania. Lithuanian and foreign composers, country, pop and national music worlds.. “FLUXUS” FESTIVAL AND and international exchange programs, CLIMBING THE PARODOS HILL lectures, workshops, and experiments. JULY THE 6TH STATE DAY’S October CELEBRATION AT THE www.kaunas2022.eu November–February RAUDONDVARIS MANOR “Kaunas 2022” invites all the residents INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPO- RARY DANCE FESTIVAL “AURA” www.raudondvariodvaras.lt of Kaunas and Kaunas district to join KAUNAS BIENNIAL the event. They will energize Kaunas in www.aura.lt The Statehood Festival organised in the their residential places (yards, balconies, www.bienale.lt Manor Park delights with concerts and Recognized foreign choreographers and open and closed areas) in fluxus style It is the largest international contem- entertainment for entire families. troupe work, bringing together different and will prepare for the (un)expected- art forms, techniques, and traditions are porary art event in the Baltic region ness of the festival, which will help their presented here. consisting of exhibitions, artist resi- August city transform from a temporary capital dency program, workshops, educational CITYTELLING FESTIVAL into a contemporary one. programs, as well as public and commu- INTERNATIONAL PERFORMING www.istorijufestivalis.eu nity arts projects. INTERNATIONAL TRADITIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL “CONTEMPO” The programme “Memory Office” of AND CONTEMPORARY FOLK www. kaunas2022.eu “Kaunas 2022” invites people to engage in MUSIC FESTIVAL “SUKLEGOS” December citytelling and to tell personal (artistic) The festival program includes carefully www.suklegos.lt CHRISTMAS TREE LIGHTING AND selected projects and artists of contem- stories – sad and merry stories that are A contemporary glance at the folklore A CHRISTMAS MARKET porary stage art from Lithuania and in- important to Kaunas or perhaps even ternational stages. festival includes a variety of musical unknown ones. The stories will be told www.kaunas.lt styles and projects based on ethnic employing sound, lights, images and culture. words.

48 49 Forget about every day worries and and solve problems in order to escape a go for an adventure – Kaunas can locked room. offer plenty of them: rock climbing, If you can‘t stay still, we suggest to pay a adventure parks, bungy jumping, trampoline park a visit. Here‘s no ground beach volleyball arena, the only under your feet nor the fear of heights. race circuit in Lithuania, rope park, paintball and many other possibilities for active free time! TOURISM ACTIVE

Activities in the nature Santaka and Nemunas Island Parks are among other places worth seeing in Kaunas. These parks are excellent rec- reational areas where you can not only go for a walk but also do some sport and take part in sport or entertainment events. Nemunas Island Park is open A day not to forget for the little to everyone who is a beach volleyball ones enthusiast – there are four courts. Also Lithuanian Zoological Gardens in in Santaka park there is a brand new Kaunas invites you to see more than skateboard, rollerblade and BMX park. In 2000 animals. There are over 250 species most of Kaunas parks there are equip- in this collection many of which are in ment for outdoor fitness, children play- the Lithuanian and the grounds and chess tables. international The Red List of Threat- In Jadagoniai, a place near Kaunas, you ened Species. Many educational events can try out rock climbing outdoors – it‘s are organised in the zoo among which a unique place in Lithuania where you are the night at the zoo and others. have to pull yourself up by grabbing dif- Another site to visit is Tadas Ivanauskas ferent objects on trees or hold on a gi- Zoology Museum in Kaunas that has al- ant web. You can also play some outdoor ready been running for 100 years. You tennis, beach volleyball and check out can find 17 000 items in 2500 square the mud route. metres! You simply must find the time to explore them all. When one wants to play, experience, learn and feel at the same time, one must go to the CurioCity – the largest educational entertainment centre for children in the Baltic states. Here you launch into the sky in a space- ship, slide on a rainbow, solve detective mysteries and accept other challenges. In the warm seasons our city is full of soap bubbles; you just need to go to the agreed location and enjoy the dance of If you want to spend your free time colourful bubbles! Don‘t forget to check actively without leaving the city, you the programmes of different city the- should head to an adventure park near- atres – there‘s plenty of performances by Lampėdžiai lake. Here are various for children. routes: from the fast route for the little ones where they can feel confident and strong to the 16 metre Dramliaskrydis which lets you experience the free fall. It’s the largest waterpark in If you don’t mind getting wet, we suggest water trampolines and the wakeboard- the Baltic states. On the One of the biggest ing park. choice of east side of Lampėdžis lake Challenge accepted! vinyl and shellac you can find park figures The escape rooms is a great way to records in that are up to 7 meters in Kaunas! height! spend time with your friends, colleagues or family. It‘s a place where your logical Kęstučio g. 7, Kaunas thinking, imagination and attention +370 671 49516 to detail help you find different clues 50 51 VANDENS PRAMOGOS

Water tourism in Kaunas offers the longest tracks in Europe. Its length many opportunities to enjoy both is 287 meters. You can try canoeing with the city and the beautiful outdoors. oars, too. This is a universal sport with All that remains is to choose the no age limits, so everybody can join. most suitable trip for you! Just do You can also spend your time at not forget to take care of tickets Lampėdžiai playing basketball, beach in advance! volleyball, mini golf, or tennis. There is WATER ATTRACTIONS WATER www.visit.kaunas.lt also an adventure park here. Everyone www.nemunoturas.lt will find various water attractions and www.nemunastravel.lt other active leisure opportunities here!

KAUNAS LAGOON 1ST AND 2ND PANEMUNĖ BEACH BEACHES (A. Smetonos al. 4) (T. Masiulio g.) Here you will find a newly built resort At Kaunas Lagoon you can ride around with athletics courts and playgrounds, in the water on a rented water bike or gazebos, and benches for cheerful and boat, enjoy a game of beach volleyball, or purposeful recreation. enjoy an outdoor cafe. KULAUTUVA BEACH LAMPĖDŽIAI LAKE BEACH (Nemuno g., Kulautuva, Kauno r.) (Raudondvario pl. 161A) A beach established in the former gravel It is one of the favourite recreational quarry offers playgrounds for children, and bathing places in Kaunas. There and other equipment required for is camping here to, which makes it an quality leisure time, there is a wake- ideal place for tourists. You can spend board park. During the tourism season, your time at Lampėdžiai quarry renting a ferry nearby takes pedestrians and cy- kayaks, water bikes, canoes, and wake- clists to Zapyškis on the other bank of boards. The wakeboard park has one of the Nemunas and back.

Don‘t miss the opportunity to go for a boat trip or take a water bee peddle boat for a spin in Kaunas Reservoir. Visit the “Love bay” and you might see a great blue heron!

52 53 1. RAUDONDVARIS 3. PAŠTUVA CARMELITE MONASTERY Today, it is a cosy town in the middle of Lithuania, located on the confluence The monastery of St. Joseph and St. of the Nemunas and Nevėžis rivers. Saint Thérèse of Lisieux in Paštuva, Raudondvaris manor is mentioned in which is divided into two parts, public chronicles as early as the 17th century, and private, was restored in 1994. The run by and cherished by the Radvila public area is a place where people who and Tiškevičius families. In its time, want to pray together with the nuns the manor was known as a cultural and can stay. The Carmelite Order name is artistic centre, and had a good art gal- associated with the Carmel mountain lery and library. Raudondvaris manor range, located in the Holy Land, from house (traditionally called a castle) is where the prophet Elijah once lived in a hermit community.

a reason for the town’s emergence and CASTLES AND MANORS OF PANEMUNĖ current tourism attraction centre. The 4. VILKIJA castle is only one of the architectural ensembles of elements of Raudondvaris. The whole town is a valuable architec- Everyone should take note of the offici- tural whole, starting from the 16th cen- na, conservatory, and stables built next tury. The town’s old street dates from to the castle. All this is surrounded by the 14th century; they are noteworthy greenery, a park. Now a variety of con- and protected by the state. When you certs, festivals, exhibitions and other visit the town you also have to check out events are often held here. The castle St. George’s church built in 1900-1908 and also houses the museum Kaunas Dis- the Antanas and Jonas Juška Brothers trict. Raudondvaris church is the tallest Ethnic Culture Museum (Kauno Mažoji g. and most visible building in town, with 2) located in the oldest building in town, neo-baroque and neoclassical features. calculated to be ~300. Its walls are hung Right next to the church you can see with the works of well-known Lithua- design work contributed by the famous nian artists, but the sharpest footprints Italian architect Wawrzyniec Cezary are left behind by the most famous Lith- Anichini. It was built in 1846-1857 by uanian folk artist, Antanas Juška. The the then-owner of the manor, Count spiritual riches of Lithuanian folk art Benediktas Emanuelis Tiškevičius. he accumulated impress us with their abundance even today. Antanas Juš- 2. KULAUTUVA ka’s contemporaries had collected and One of the most beautiful places in put together a dictionary of more than Kaunas District located on the right 70,000 old Lithuanian words, a song- bank of the Nemunas. During the book with 7,000 songs set out to about interwar period it became a prominent 2,000 melodies, Vydūnas handwritten resort; Kulautuva still entices people letters, Balys Buračas autographs books, who want to relax in the evergreen pine dozens patterns of flashy fabric, chests, forest and tranquillity. Currently the and hundreds of old household utensils. This rewarding route along name Kulautuva is best-known by bard Each year, a Juška brothers traditional song holidays is held here together with the Panemunė was formed fans, because every summer the town becomes a bard capital. Every year in exhibitions and meetings with interest- as the centuries elapsed. ing people. During the summer season One side of the road is July a festival takes place here. During the summer, you can get to Kulautuva you can cross the Nemunas River with surrounded by the the Vilkija ferry. picturesque valley of the by boat. Fans of open-air hiking are welcome to try out the pedestrian well- Nemunas, the other by 5. SEREDŽIUS towering mounds. Check ness trails winding in the fine forest. out the Panemunė, visiting All the routes are circular. On the way Seredžius has a mound, as do other you can relax in holiday camps or visit castle mounds; it is reminiscent of a all the natural, historical, the Valley of Gods and Goddesses full of bitter struggle with the Crusaders and and cultural sites along the references to the old pagan traditions. is called Palemonas Hill. This is one way. We recommend to start the trip at the Kaunas Castle.

54 55 8. RAUDONĖ Manor for the land where it was built. The timber merchant Janušas Eperješas During the 16th–17th century, once the moved here from Hungary and started to Nemunas became an important trade build this castle in about 1604. The castle artery, castles took on a new form: rich was not supposed to be a defensive for- men, merchants, and nobles began to tress, but rather a typical 17th century build castles type residences, where feudal castle with defensive equipment, the only decorations were shooting as well as residential and farm buildings. holes reminiscent of the previous more Panemunė Castle was completed in 1610. -functional castles. At the end of the The castle’s tower has a lockup cell in the 16th century the castle was erected in basement where unlucky peasants ended this quadrilateral shape. You can ad- up if they offended their masters. mire the scenery and the curves of the The longest term was three months.

Nemunas from a restored 33.5 m high CASTLES AND MANORS OF PANEMUNĖ Seeing this place today will make your castle tower. The castle is surrounded Raudondvaris Manor skin crawl. Ghosts quietly speak of their by an entire old park of rare trees. suffering. Panemunė Castle awaits you Unfortunately, the Gediminas oak tree, on a high hill, cradled in an old park, of the tallest and most picturesque of the estate are almost completely ru- under which, according to legend, Lith- surrounded by five cascading ponds. Lithuanian mounds (about 40 m). ined, and the park abandoned: this place uanian Grand Duke Gediminas last According to legend, this mound was radiates a special aura, and traveling to dined having arrived in Veliuona, no 10. ŠILINĖ TAVERN established as a residence for the Roman visit Panemunė is a must. longer blooms. There is a stone mill Empire’s Duke Palemonas, who escaped built in 1887 as a farm building and A few kilometres to the west of Pane- 7. VELIUONA with 500 Roman nobles to live there. later equipped with a mill. munė Castle stands the formerly Palemonas sons and grandchildren Folks say that this is one of the oldest famous Šilinė tavern. This is a mid- ruled large territories and founded cities. settlements in Lithuania. It is often 9. PANEMUNĖ CASTLE 18th century wooden folk architecture The grandson, Kernius, established fur- building. At present, the former Šilinė referred to in history because it is next Panemunė Castle name changed sever- ther away from Seredžius, on the right tavern is occupied by the Panemunė to the flowing Nemunas; that was a al times. It was first named Panemunė bank of the Neris and the area called it natural limit to the Prussian lands, Kernavė. Peter of Duisburg’s “The Chron- which were established by the Teutonic icle of the Prussian Land” mentioned Order as early as the 13th century. the mound castle in 1293. The Crusad- According to historical sources, Lithua- ers attacked the castle from 1293 to 1363. nia Grand Duke Gediminas visited Veli- That was the year the castle was burned uona, as well as fought and died there. and never rebuilt. The southern part of In Veliuona, the Nemunas valley slope the city has burial grounds dating back offers a historic monument: an archaeo- to the 3rd-4th century. logical complex of mounds. The western mound is called the Hill of Peace. This is 6. BELVEDERIS MANOR a 32 m high steep frustoconical mound. Belvederis Manor was built according to The second mound is called the Hill of a design by the Italian Pietro de Rosio Gediminas Grave. According to legend, around 1840 (Belvedere means beauti- Lithuania Grand Duke Gediminas died ful view). Nobleman Kazimieras Burba in Veliuona attacking Bayerburg and de- ordered of the manor built according fending Veliuona castle, and the mound to simulate an Italian Tuscan villa. This was poured over his body as a tomb. A two-story brick house withan irregular monument built to Lithuanian Grand plan with a three-story tower was lux- Duke Gediminas stands on the mound. uriously furnished inside. The manor The Classicist 19th century manor house included not only the chambers and built by Michael Zaleckis has survived park. There was a huge residential and in the town to the present day. They farm building complex, which consisted are wooden, with a fourcolumn portico

of about twenty buildings. At the end of facade. Trees brought from other coun- GASTROPUB the park there stands a small neo-goth- tries grow in the manor park. There was ic chapel: the mausoleum of Burba’s kin. a school here, on and off, through the Although this place was once flashy, 20th century, where the writer Petras HOP DOC Gastropub o ers you more shiny, beautiful, and luxurious, and Cvirka studied. than 100 kinds of Craft drinks and home-made food. now the chambers and other buildings You will find us at M. Daukšos g. 23, KAUNAS

56 57 Regional Park and Information Centre Tourism information on your way: and a nature school. The building has natural and the everyday life exposi- tions on display. You can devote some Kaunas District Tourism and time to the Medaus Slėnis (Honey Business Information Centre Valley) educational program in Šilinė. Pilies takas 1, Raudondvaris, Kauno r. Tel. +370 37 548118 11. [email protected] On the left bank of the Mituva River, the www.kaunorajonas.lt Jurbarkas Regional Museum operates in the superb former manor buildings in Jurbarkas District Tourism and the large park, as well as the Grybas me- Business Information Centre morial museum and Tourism and Busi- Vydūno g. 19, Jurbarkas CASTLES AND MANORS OF PANEMUNĖ ness Information Centre. The rebuilt Tel. +370 447 51485 portico decorates the central building [email protected] foundations and attracts visitors. While www.jurbarkotic.lt visiting Jurbarkas you should also visit the Church of the Blessed Trinity and Jurbarkas mound, known as Bišpilis.

ROUTE:

1 9 km 2 4 km 3 6 km 4 13 km 5 1 km 6

8 km 11 14 km 10 2 km 9 9 km 8 10 km 7

Regional Park was established to preserve the unique Kaunas Lagoon dam landscape complex, large outcrops, flooded Nemunas tributary estuaries, the unique architectural complex of the Pažaislis monastery, and other natural and cultural heritage. The park includes part of the city of Kaunas, as well as the dis- trict areas of Kaunas and Kaišiadorys. The Kaunas Lagoon Regional Park area is 9,869 ha.

58 59 6. DUBRAVA MINOR RESERVE EDUCATIONAL TRAIL The area of Dubrava Minor Reserve is 120 ha where pines, which a man is not ca- pable to embrace, of 33 meters high grow. About a quarter of the Dubrava minor re- serve area are occupied by slender birch trees and small pine trees covered with moss and a tussock furrowed bog. The 1.9 km long educational trail with 8 informa- tion stands on the way introduce visitors to local flora and fauna features; it winds KAUNAS LAGOON REGIONAL PARK REGIONAL LAGOON KAUNAS through all the most interesting places the Dubrava Reserve.

7. MERGAKALNIS OBSERVATION DECK Mergakalnis is the highest point above Kaunas Lagoon. They say that in ancient times promiscuous women were tied up in bags and thrown from the cliff at this Arlaviškiai Educational Trail point. This place is now a resort with a beautiful landscape. Beside is you will see 1. THE INTERNAL EXPOSITION OF et period shape the territory landscape. the Dovainoniai barrows, which accord- KAUNAS LAGOON REGIONAL The fort successfully promotes a paint- ing to findings date back to the 9th-12th PARK ball club at present. century. 8. EXPOSURE OF The transformation of the Nemunas 3. ŽIEGŽDRIAI GEOLOGICAL CONGLOMERATES IN LAŠINIAI River into a lagoon is the main theme TRAIL of the exposition, which combines a rich This is a geological natural heritage site and dramatic history of certain villages The 1.6 kilometre trail begins near in Strėva Landscape Reserve of Kaunas and the most significant changes in the Žiegždriai village. For those interested in Lagoon Regional Park. On the right 20th century Lithuanian landscape. The genealogy it will be a great opportunity bank of the river there is the Strėva main highlight of the exhibition is the to learn to read the history recorded in ravine rock outcrop in Lašiniai village, layout on which the image is projected, the edges of crustal layers. The educa- Rumšiškės, Kaišiadorys District. A huge which, like a time machine, takes us to tional trail shows you porous clay and Lašiniai stone stands on the edge out- a distant past: we will get to see how the conglomerate outcrops, as well as grot- crop 200 meters south of the Strėva riv- erbank that opens up to the impressive last glaciers retreated, the formation of toes. Strėva exposure where geologists have the Nemunas and its valley, and how it found traces of amber. eventually turned into Kaunas Lagoon. 4. PAKALNIŠKIAI EDUCATIONAL TRAIL 9. DUBRAVA ARBORETUM 2. FIFTH FORT OF THE KAUNAS We suggest this trail for those interested FORTRESS The Dubrava arboretum is currently the in flora, birds and forest fauna. Journey only one in Lithuania. Construction of the Alongside Kaunas Lagoon there are two time is about 2 hours, distance is 3 km. Arboretum began in 1958 at the Dubrava unique pieces of Eastern European for- The route begins on Piliuonos Gatvė, the forest research station in the village of tification architecture and military his- spot is marked on an information booth. Vaišvydava, Kaunas. Over 1,000 taxonomic tory within the monumental Kaunas units of woody plants have been collected fortress ring: the Fifth Fort, reminiscent 5. ARLAVIŠKIAI EDUCATIONAL TRAIL and analysed here (botanical species, sub- of Imperial Russia, the two Vaišvydava species, forms, and cultivars). bunkers, and the remains of the First Pedestrian trail with information stands World War Railway (Palemonas) fort and wooden benches on a slope edge Direction of Kaunas Lagoon Regional bunkers circuit. The Fifth Fort was built stretching 1.3 km. The trail overlooks not Park / Visitors Centre in 1889 and is distinguished by its layout: only the slope which runs along Kadagi- Miškininkų g. 2, Vaišvydava, Kauno r. pentagonal-shaped, asymmetrical, and ai (Juniper) Valley, but also the Kaunas Tel. +370 37 383071 adapted to the environment. Fort terri- Lagoon curled tail and Dabinta Island [email protected] tory plantations and antiaircraft missile breaking through it. www.kaunomarios.lt base buildings construct during the Sovi-

60 61 5 Arlaviškiai Educational Trail

Arlaviškės Jakštonys

Arlaviškių Kadagių slėnis

3 6 Dubrava Minor Reserve Educational Trail

DUBRAVOS REZERVATINĖ Girionys APYRUBĖ pelkė ežeras

4

9 6 2 Kapitoniškės 1

3 Žiegždriai Geological Trail

7

Žiegždrių 5 miškas Leonavas 8 Lašiniai 4 Pakalniškiai Educational Trail Žiegždriai Arlaviškės Maisiejūnai Dabinta Girionys Laumėnai

Vaišvydava

62 63 GOOD TO KNOW

Street art painting „The Wise Old Man“

Kaunas holds a number of secrets and extraordinary facts. It‘s impossible to write them all down on paper, however, we be- lieve that some are really worth knowing!

• Kaunas is where you will find the Vy- tached mechanical legs and joints and tautas the Great Bridge, aka the longest moved them in front of the camera. bridge in the world. In order to bridge the transition from one bank of the Ne- • There was a horse-drawn tram in munas to the other took 13 days, because Laisvės avenue until 1929 which was Kaunas belonged to the Russian Empire called this way because a tram on a rail- and Aleksotas to the Prussian kingdom ing (Lith. konkė) was drawn by horses. up to 1807. The different sides of the river had different calendars, which included • S. Darius and S. Girėnas Airport, which a 13-day difference. still operates until the present day which was established in honour of pi- • It would probably be difficult to find lots Stasys Darius and Steponas Girėnas, out when a Lithuanian drank the first famous all over the world for their suc- mug of beer but breweries were known cessful flight across the Atlantic in 1933 in Lithuania from the oldest times. The and plane crash under vague circum- beginning of brewage in Kaunas was the stances when less than a tenth of their steam beer and malt factory built by trip was left. the merchant I. B. Volfas in 1853 where “Volfas beer” was brewed for the first • The story goes that if one makes a time. wish in lovers favourite Santaka park where the bends of two rivers, the river • In 1910 the first puppet cartoon in the Nemunas (in other words, man) and the world “Fight of Stag Beetles” was created river Neris (in other words, woman), join in Kaunas. The author of the cartoon is it will come true. The confluence of two Vladislovas Starevičius. The main char- rivers is like the sacrament of marriage acters of the cartoon were huge insects when two rivers join and never separate. stag beetles. Starevičius dried them, at-

64 65 Exercises for • Kaunas is called the capital of bas- • The most beautiful Christmas trees ketball, because the basketball team are in Kaunas. According to the people strengthening neck Kauno “Žalgiris” has existed for almost of Lithuania. Four years in a row the 70 years in this town. Such basketball most originally decorated Christmas stars as Arvydas Sabonis, Rimas Kurti- trees are the decoration of the Kaunas and back muscles

GOOD TO KNOW naitis, Šarūnas Marčiulionis, Šarūnas Old Town. In 2012 an emerald 16 me- Jasikevičius, Mantas Kalnietis, Žydrūnas tre high Christmas tree was acknowl- Ilgauskas, Donatas Motiejūnas, Paulius edged as the highest sculpture made Long walks in a big city certainly exhaust not only your legs, but Jankūnas and Linas Kleiza were brought of plastic bottles in the world and was up in the capital of basketball. included in the Guiness World Records. the back as well. Besides fatigue, neck, back muscles get tense as well, so it is necessary to relax and strengthen them. Everyone can • The business centre “1000” in Kaunas • “Fluxus Ministerija” operated in do that simply at home. Help yourself avoid back pain, feel wonder- got into the Top 11 of the most unusual Kaunas in 2012-2013. It is decorated with ful, and continue strolling along Kaunas streets! buildings of Europe composed by CNN. the greatest graffiti drawings in Lithua- com and took a respectable second nia, „The Wise Old Man“ (by Tadas Šim- place. In 2010 the prestigious album of kus and Žygimantas Amelynas). This Sitting position, straight back, architecture “Collection: Offices” includ- drawing decorates not only the facade palm over the ear. ed it into the list of the 300 best world’s of the Ministry of Fluxus, but also the office buildings. In 2009 Lithuanian a Kaunas panorama: the design is near Breathe in; breathe out and simultaneously record registration agency “Factum” re- the Confluence and well-visible from push the head into the palm corded that a banknote of one thousand both rooftops and from both sides of (resist this movement with the palm). litas depicted on the building is the big- the river. Repeat for the other side. gest stained glass in our country. • There is “Sėjikas” (Seeding man) sculp- ture in the garden of Kaunas War Muse- Sitting position, straight back. um which sows stars at night. Rotate your shoulders backward, after rotate forward.

Sitting position, straight back or standing, forearms horizontal, palms close together. Press your palms against each other.

Lying on the back with legs bent, hands behind head. As you exhale, aim for the your knee with opposite side elbow, return to your starting position while inhaling. Repeat other side.

Back-lying position, knees bent. Raise the pelvis upward, hold it for 4-5 sec and go back to the starting position slowly.

On all fours. Lower your buttocks on the heels, simultaneously stretching your arms forward, hold this position for 15 sec.

More information on medicalspa.lt 66 67 LITHUANIA No – ne Capital: Vilnius Sorry – atsiprašau Currency: Euro (EUR) Cheers – į sveikatą Time Zone: UTC +2/Summertime UTC +3 Nice to meet you – malonu susipažinti Climate: average annual temperature

USEFUL PHRASES GOOD TO KNOW +7.2° C, July +18.4° C. Religion: Roman Catholic The Old Town – senamiestis Internet top-level domain extension: .lt Do you speak English? – Ar kalbate an- Telephone code: +370 gliškai? I don’t understand – nesuprantu KAUNAS How much (does it cost)? – Kiek (kain- The city’s foundation date: 1361 (men- uoja)? tioned in written sources for the first What’s your name? – Koks tavo vardas? time) Where is...? – Kur yra...? City area: 158 km2 Could you help me? – Ar galėtumėte Population: 288363 man padėti? Ethnicity: 93% Lithuanian, Tea – arbata 4% Russian, 3% other. Coffee – kava Official city website: www.kaunas.lt Beer – alus Shop – parduotuvė PUBLIC HOLIDAYS (NON-WORKING DAYS) ADVICE January 1 - New Year, Lithuanian Flag Day EMERGENCY NUMBER February 16 – Lithuanian Independence Day In case of an accident or if you need the March 11 - Lithuanian Independence help of the police, a doctor or firefight- Restoration Day ers, call 112. An additional code is not May 01 - International Labour Day necessary when calling from mobile or June 24 - Rasos (Dew Day – pagan ver- fixed phone. sion of St. John’s Day) July 06 - State Day (Coronation of King GROUND FLOOR Mindaugas of Lithuania) The ground floor in Lithuania is known August 15 - Žolinės (Grass Day – pagan as the first floor. version of Assumption of Mary) November 01 - All Saints Day, Day of the SMOKING IN PUBLIC Dead December 24 - Christmas Eve Smoking is banned in cafes, restau- December 25-26 – Christmas rants, and public buildings. Smoking is also prohibited in some urban areas UNDERSTAND LITHUANIAN marked by special signs. The is the state TIPS language of Lithuania and an official language of the European Union. Most It is not obligatory to leave tips. However, it speak this language. The is recommended to leave about 10 % of the Lithuanian alphabet consists of 32 capi- sum for good service. tal and small Latin letters. DRINKING IN PUBLIC PLACES POLITE EXPRESSIONS Drinking alcohol in public places Hello – labas (informally) (streets, parks and public transport) is Hello – laba diena (formaly) prohibited. You may savour alcoholic Goodbye – iki (informally) drinks in bars, cafés or restaurants. The Goodbey – viso gero (formally) sale of alcoholic beverages is prohibited Please – prašau from 8 p.m. until 10 a.m. (I-VI) and from Thank you – ačiū 3 p.m. until 10 a.m. on Sundays (except in bars, cafés, restaurants, etc.). Monumental Christ's Resurrection Church Yes – taip

68 69 TASTE IT! TAKE IT HOME

BLACK BREAD BLACK BREAD It is the pride of Lithuanian cuisine. It was Lithuanians special pride which was the highly valued and even called “sacred”. main meal in Lithuanian villages up to

From old times Lithuanians related it the 20th century. The types of tradi- GOOD TO KNOW with magic and superstitious beliefs. tional Lithuanian bread are the follow- ing: rye bread, wheat bread and triticale COLD BEETROOT SOUP bread. "ŠALTIBARŠČIAI" Traditional pink cold soup made of AMBER beetroots and served with boiled pota- It is called “Lithuanian gold”. Amber toes. This dish is especially popular in is used to create unique jewellery and summer. unusual art works; it is distinguished for its stimulating and strengthening POTATO DUMPLINGS properties. Therefore, from old times it "CEPELINAI" has been used not only for decoration This dish made of grated and/or mashed but also for treatment. Lithuanians’ an- boiled potatoes with meat, curds or oth- cestors protected themselves from the er things, also called “big dumplings”. dark powers by wearing amber amulets. It is an inseparable part of traditional Amber therapy is becoming more and cuisine. more popular: amber spirits and prepa- rations with amber acid, oil or powder BAROQUE TREE CAKE "ŠAKOTIS" are made, healing and strengthening amber tea is drunk. This high branchy hollow baked prod- uct which resembles a fir is one of the FLAX most popular confectionery products in Lithuanian cuisine. Lithuanian monas- Also called “North silk”. Through the teries started to bake "Šakotis" in 20th centuries Lithuanians have cherished century. It’s a great dessert! traditions of flax growing and process- ing which are valued not only in Lithua- nia. We suggest that you buy flax textile products of high quality in specialized shops.

WOOD You may buy unique wooden craftwork the stock of which is really large: from housewares up to jewellery.

Cold beetroot soup "Šaltibarščiai"

70 71 ARRIVAL

KAUNAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Oro uosto g. 4, Karmėlava, Kauno r. www.kaunas-airport.lt

KAUNAS BUS STATION Vytauto pr. 24, Kaunas www.autobusubilietai.lt

KAUNAS TRAIN STATION M. K. Čiurlionio g. 16, Kaunas www.traukiniobilietas.lt

IN THE CITY

CITY BEE Cars, bikes and scooters sharing service on your phone!

BOLT Transportation network in Kaunas. With a promo code KAUNASIN get a 7 Eur discount for your first journey.

TRAFI Follow the public transport movement in real time with Trafi app or on the internet.

LUGGAGE STORAGE

AT THE TRAIN STATION www.traukiniobilietas.lt

AT KAUNAS BUS STATION www.siuntosautobusais.lt

AT KAUNAS AIRPORT www.packandfly.lt

Photo authors: A. Aleksandravičius, A. Bykovas, G. Česonis, K. Čyžiūtė, S. Jankauskas, N. Paluckas, M. Stasiulionytė, M. Plepys.

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