The Art of Scent Press Release
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Let the Holidays Begin! Big,Bold Jewels Your Own Shopping the World
D D NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER Big, Bold Your Own Shopping ...Let the Jewels Private Caribbean the World Holidays Begin! p236 p66 p148 PERSONALBEST the business of scent A Whiff of Something Real As mass-produced perfumes become the new normal, the origin of a fragrance is more important than ever. TINA GAUDOIN reports from Grasse, the ancient home of perfume and the jasmine fields of Chanel No 5. oseph Mul drives his battered pickup into the dusty, rutted field of Jasminum gran- diflorum shrubs. It is 9 A.M. on a warm, slightly overcast September morning in Pégomas in southern France, about four miles from Grasse, the ancient home of Jperfume. In front of Mul’s truck, which is making easy work of the tough ter- rain, a small army of colorfully dressed pickers, most hailing from Eastern Europe, fans out, backs bent in pursuit of the elusive jasmine bloom that flowers over- night and must be harvested from the three-foot-high bushes before noon. By lunchtime, the petals will have been weighed by Mul, the numbers noted in the ledger (bonuses are paid by the kilo), and the pickers, who have been working since before dawn, will retire for a meal and a nap. Not so for Mul, who will oversee the beginnings of the lengthy distillation technique of turning the blooms into jasmine absolute, the essential oil and vital in- gredient in the world’s most famous and best- selling fragrance: Chanel No 5. All told, it’s a labor-intensive process. One picker takes roughly an hour to harvest one pound of jasmine; 772 pounds are required to make two pounds of concrete—the solution ARCHIVE ! WICKHAM/TRUNK ! MICHAEL !"! LTD ! NAST ! The post–World War II era marked the beginning of mass fragrance, when women wore perfume for more than just special occasions. -
According to Said Regulation, the Presence of 26 Potential Fragrance
The perfume industry profoundly changed with the advent According to said regulation, the presence of 26 potential of modern synthetic organic chemistry. A turning point was fragrance allergens must be indicated in the label (list of the discovery of the vanillin synthesis from coniferin in 1874 ingredients), if concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on (the Reimer-Tiemann chemical reaction), which led to the product. Substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or foundation in Germany of what is today one of the world’s toxic for reproduction are prohibited and will be reviewed by largest fragrance suppliers (Symrise). the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) before In 1889, Aimé Guerlain used synthetic vanillin as the “base use is granted. note” of his commercial perfume Jicky introducing the To date, for example, the SCCS consider data insufficient concept of a perfume with a top note, a middle note to ban diethyl phthalates (DEP) and 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and a bottom note. Recognized immediately upon derivatives (parabens) from cosmetics (14), even though the application of the perfume, the top notes of a fragrance European Commission on Endocrine Disruption has listed DEP are generally comprised of the most volatile molecules such as a Category 1 priority substance, based on evidence that as d-limonene in citrus (lemon, orange zest, bergamot). they interfere with hormone function, decrease sperm counts Abundant in lavender and jasmine, the middle notes are in man, inducing early puberty in girls, and reproductive those -
Perfumes Míticos
PERFUMES MÍTICOS A la venta desde octubre de 2012 «Su perfume olía a perfume, igual que los demás perfumes. Pero en ella parecía un olor natural.» (Simone de Beauvoir Los mandarines, 1954) PERFUMES MÍTICOS Marie Bénédicte Gauthier Un exquisito libro con la historia de los perfumes más emblemáticos y un sinfín de sugerencias para elegir una fragancia. Lleno de anécdotas sobre cómo y para quién se creó cada perfume, cómo distinguirlos o quién es o ha sido su imagen. ¿A qué olía Marilín? ¿Qué perfume era el preferido de Robert Reford o de Grace Kelly? ¿cuál fue el primer perfume para hombre y mujer?... Hay perfumes que cuentan historias y que evocan sentimientos y deseos. Muchos de ellos mantienen un vínculo muy afectivo, transmitido de generación en generación, que convocan en ese sentido el recuerdo de las personas queridas. Los perfumes míticos son un condensado de sensibilidad: algunos fueron creados hace más de un siglo pero siguen encerrando una enorme belleza en su diminuto frasco. Hay perfumes que forman parte de la historia del cine, otros “visten” habitualmente a grandes estrellas, los hay que forman parte de los museos de arte, y hay algunos que son famosos principalmente por un envase que está más allá de una “botellita” de diseño más o menos atractivo. Este precioso libro objeto, de cuidado diseño, narra la historia de los perfumes más míticos, además de desvelarnos todos los detalles de sus fórmulas y un sinfín de sugerencias útiles para escoger la esencia que mejor reafirme nuestra propia personalidad. Son setenta perfumes, cada uno con su ficha, en la que se detallan las notas de salida, corazón y fondo del perfume con un lenguaje ameno, además de algunas indicaciones para saber para quién está hecho el perfume y cómo llevarlo. -
Representations of the Olfactory Concept in Advertising: a Case Study
Argumentum. Journal of the Seminar of Discursive Logic, Argumentation Theory and Rhetoric 16 (1): 80-93, 2018 Brînduşa-Mariana AMALANCEI “Vasile Alecsandri” University of Bacău (Romania) Representations of the Olfactory Concept in Advertising: A Case Study Abstract: The analysis of a perfume advertising image can be done from multiple perspectives, the endeavors to provide possible reading paths and interpretations being among the most diverse in the literature. Whether it is to meet the consumers’ psychological desires, to relate to fashion trends, or to create a rare scent, perfume advertising is a real challenge, which often needs to be answered just by juxtaposing an image and the product name. Our paper highlights the way in which the correlation between the visual and olfactory forms of perfumes is attempted, through product name, vial, characters, context and text (Julien 1997). Because in many advertisements the perfume is replacing the character, we chose as a case study an advertising image that we consider illustrating in this respect, that of the new olfactory creation of Chanel, Gabrielle, which appeared in September 2017. We have to mention that the launch of this product has been marked by the appearance of homage articles in glossy magazines, which contributes, through the information provided, to a better understanding of the message the advertisement transmits. Keywords: image, visual identity, olfactory concept, olfactory memory, brand name, perfume name, perfume bottle, advertising context 1. Fragrances ‒ Vectors of Communication Considered a privileged way of communication, perfumes are an identity mark (Vettraino-Soulard 1992, 106). We can often hear in advertisements about perfumes for strong women, perfumes that suit active women, perfumes for romantic women, etc. -
Cologne Sightseeing -Extended
Cologne Sightseeing -extended- A city trip across Cologne N50° 56.453 E006° 58.117 Made by AlexanderD GC32QNC Site | 2 Contents Primary note ............................................................................................................... 3 General informations and practical tips for a visit to Cologne ..................................... 4 Short Introduction - Cologne’s History ........................................................................ 5 Stage 1 – Historic fairground halls and Rhinepark ...................................................... 6 Stage 2 – Rhine ropeway and Claudiustherme .......................................................... 7 Stage 3 – Zoo and Flora ............................................................................................. 8 Stage 4 – Mediapark .................................................................................................. 9 Stage 5 – Ringe ........................................................................................................ 10 Stage 6 – Rheinauhafen - Chocolatemuseum – German Olympic Museum ............ 11 Stage 7 – Neumarkt – Schnütgen Museum – Rautenstrauch-Joest-Museum ......... 13 Stage 8 – 4711- Original Eau de Cologne ................................................................ 14 Stage 9 - Historic city hall – Wallraff-Richartz-Museum – Farinahouse .................... 15 Stage 10 – Alter Markt .............................................................................................. 17 Stage 11 – Cologne Cathedral -
The Senses in Early Modern England, 1558–1660
5 Seeing smell Holly Dugan In January 2013, the Institute for Art and Olfaction commissioned graphic artist Micah Hahn and his design studio AutumnSeventy to create a series of prints on perfumery to commemorate its opening in Los Angeles.1 The result was Molecules, Series 1, which depicts three of the most influential molecules that defined twentieth-century perfumery – aldehyde C12, Iso E Super®, and Galaxolide.2 Gilded and embossed, the prints emphasize the chemical structure of these molecules, even as it renders them as fine art. That the prints are also lightly scented with each aromachemical depicted on it emphasizes the broader, and one might say synaesthetic, take on the mission of the institute: to connect fineart with olfaction. Although it is a visual representation of molecules that define modern perfumery, Molecules, Series 1 thus joins a long art historical tradition of cross-modal representations of sensation, particularly smell. Can a molecule be considered fine art? And, if so, which representation of that molecule best captures its olfactory beauty and renders it ‘visible’? Consider, for example, Hahn’s Galaxolide (Figure 3). It playfully invokes a wide variety of sensory modes to capture the aesthetic of Galaxolide. The print highlights both its chemical formula – C18H26 O – and its structural formula. Both are linked to its cultural associations with perfumery and public health. Galaxolide is a second-generation polycyclic synthetic musk, discovered in the 1960s, meant to synthesize the natural scent of deer musk. Translated into the language of public health, it is a hydrophobic but lipophilic ‘toxin’: it won’t wash off in water and is easily stored in human fat.3 Rendered into the language of commercial perfumery, however, it smells ‘clean’, a ‘musky, flowery, woody odor’ with a ‘sweet, powdery nuance’.4 Both its scent and its structure made it ideal for use in laundry detergents and soaps. -
A Materialidade Das Práticas Culturais Nas Embalagens De Perfume Do Século XVIII Aos Anos 1920
Fragrâncias visíveis: a materialidade das práticas culturais nas embalagens de perfume do século XVIII aos anos 1920 Maureen Schaefer França* Marilda Lopes Pinheiro Queluz** Resumo O objetivo deste artigo é pontuar historicamente algumas imbricações entre o design de embalagens de perfume, as relações sócio-culturais e a tecnologia, do século XVIII aos anos 1920. A delimitação deste período deve-se à tentativa de pensar a produção dos fragrantes a partir daquilo que Don Slater chama de início da sociedade de consumo, até o período do final da primeira guerra mundial, quando a indústria segue outros rumos. Buscou-se estudar os envoltórios, em sua materialidade, o modo como constituem e são constituídos por discursos sócio-culturais, questionando ou reproduzindo estereótipos, tradições, convenções sociais e relações de poder. cultura material medeia as atividades humanas, sendo capaz também de proporcionar uma herança cultural palpável às sociedades, contextualizada em determinado período e lugar. Palavras Chave: perfumes, design de embalagens, cultura material, história Abstract The aim of this article is to point historically some imbrication between the perfume bottles design, culture and technology, from the XVIIIth to the 1920 decade. The delimitation of this period is the attempt to think the production of fragrant from what Don Slater calls the beginning of the consumer society until the end of World War I, when the industry follows a different course. We sought to study the perfume bottles on its materiality, the way how they dialog with socio-cultural discourse, questioning or reproducing stereotypes, traditions, social conventions and power relationships. Material culture mediates human activities, and may also provide a tangible cultural heritage to societies, contextualized in a given period and place. -
Poison in Pink
University of Montana ScholarWorks at University of Montana Graduate Student Theses, Dissertations, & Professional Papers Graduate School 2017 Poison in Pink Sydney V. Cook University of Montana, Missoula Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.umt.edu/etd Part of the Business Law, Public Responsibility, and Ethics Commons, Environmental Health Commons, Environmental Policy Commons, Environmental Public Health Commons, Environmental Studies Commons, Health Policy Commons, Inequality and Stratification Commons, Nonfiction Commons, Other Life Sciences Commons, Other Pharmacology, Toxicology and Environmental Health Commons, Other Public Health Commons, Public Policy Commons, Social Policy Commons, Toxicology Commons, Women's Health Commons, Women's Studies Commons, and the Work, Economy and Organizations Commons Let us know how access to this document benefits ou.y Recommended Citation Cook, Sydney V., "Poison in Pink" (2017). Graduate Student Theses, Dissertations, & Professional Papers. 11047. https://scholarworks.umt.edu/etd/11047 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at ScholarWorks at University of Montana. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Student Theses, Dissertations, & Professional Papers by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks at University of Montana. For more information, please contact [email protected]. POISON IN PINK By SYDNEY VIOLET COOK Bachelor of Arts, Biology, Coe College, Cedar Rapids, Iowa, U.S.A, 2012 Thesis presented in partial fulfillment -
ESQ Junjul20
Portfolio Portfolio Feature Feature NOTES FROM THE PERFUME INDUSTRY Olivier Pescheux Givaudan perfumer A Creations: 34 boulevard Saint Germain Diptyque, Amber Sky Ex Nihilo, Arpege Pour Homme Lanvin, 1 Million Paco Rabanne, Balmain Homme Pierre Balmain, Higher Christan Dior ESQ: In hindsight, do you find that trends, current events or cultural movements have an impact on your creations? OLIVIER PESCHEUX: It’s hard to answer with certainty. Nevertheless, perfumers are like sponges absorbing the air of time (Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps is one of the most accurate names you can find). Hence every societal movement leaves its mark on creations, in a more or less obvious way. It’s still too early to know in IN what ways the current health crisis will leave its mark in perfume, but it will leave its mark, that’s for sure. ESQ: Do you attribute gender to certain notes and raw materials? OLIVIER PESCHEUX : Not really, but it’s true that I perceive rose as rather feminine simply because it has been used a lot THE and in significant quantities in women’s fragrances in the West. That’s less true in the Middle East, where the rose also perfumes men. Lavender is rather masculine as it’s used a lot in fougère, the favourite family of men’s fragrances. It’s interesting to note that in Brazil, lavender is also feminine. So it’s more of a cultural affair. Yann Vasnier I’m trying to fight against this natural and cultural leaning, and on Givaudan perfumer the contrary, I use this challenge to fuel my creativity. -
Serendipity Est Transcrit Comme « Le Don De Faire Des Trouvailles »
DE LA SÉRENDIPITÉ Libres sciences Pek van Andel Danièle Bourcier DE LA SÉRENDIPITÉ DANS LA SCIENCE, LA TECHNIQUE, L’ART ET LE DROIT Leçons de l’inattendu L’’AC T MEM LIBRES SCIENCES COLLECTION Libres sciences Les livres de la collection sont sous licenses Creative Commons dirigée par Danièle Bourcier éditée par Annette Colliot-Thélène & Henri Poncet Les auteurs remercient toutes les personnes et institutions qui ont soutenu leur étude, en particulier : - le NIAS (Netherlands Institute for Advanced Sudies in Social Sciences), vrai lieu de sérendipité institutionalisée et de liberté académique; - la Faculté des Sciences Médicales de l’Université de Groningue, et son photographe scientifique Dick Huizinga; ainsi que Jan Worst, chirurgien de l’œil, qui, avec P. v. Andel, a inventé une cornée artificielle (“bouchon de champagne”) déjà implantée 3000 fois au Daljit Singh Eye Hospital à Amritsar (Inde). - le CNRS: le Centre de recherche en Sciences administratives et politiques à Paris et le Centre Marc Bloch à Berlin, où les dernières étapes de ce livre ont été élaborées; - Estelle Lambert, Conservateur au Service d’Histoire de la Médecine, Bibliothèque interuniversitaire de médecine (BIUM), Université de Paris IV. [email protected] [email protected] L’ACT MEM, 2009 www.fr.creativecommons.org Préface La sérendipité est un mot qui n’est pas toujours facile à mémoriser et à prononcer. De plus, il ne figure pas – encore – dans les dictionnaires français. Et pourtant, l’expérience montre qu’il plaît beaucoup. Chaque fois que j’en ai expliqué le sens, mes interlocuteurs se sont montrés très intéressés, quitte à me téléphoner quelques jours plus tard pour que je leur reprécise l’orthographe du mot, car ils avaient trouvé une situation qui relevait de cette notion. -
THE SECTRET of for the First Time, a Couturier Revolu- Cionizes the Insular World of Perfume by Creating in 1921 Her Own Fragrance, the First of Its Kind
THE SECTRET OF For the first time, a couturier revolu- cionizes the insular world of perfume by creating in 1921 her own fragrance, the first of its kind. Coco Chanel seeks, in her own words, “ a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent.” Her scent should be as important as her style of dress. Coco Chanel calls upon Ernest Beaux, perfumer to the Czars. In search of inspiration, Ernest Beaux ven- tures as far as the Arctic circle, finding his muse in the exhilarating air issuing from the northern lakes under the midnight sun. The couturier encourages him to be ever more audacious, demanding still more jasmine, the most precious of essences. He composes a bouquet of over 80 scents for her. An abstract, mysterious perfume radiaing an extravagance floral richness. For the first time, No5 transforms the alchemy of scent, through Ernest Beauxe’s innovtive use of al- dehydes, synthetic components which exalt perfumes, like lemon which accentuates the taste of strawberry. Aldehydes add layers of complexity, making No5 even more mysteri- ous and impsible to decipher. No5, a code, an identification number, makes the sentimental names for the perfumes of the day seem in- stantly out of date. It receives its name because Mademoiselle chanel prefers the fifth sample Ernes Beaux presents to her. For the first time, a perfume is presented in a simple laboratory flacon. From the United States to japan, the fragrance’s fame spreads, it soon becomes the best-selling perfume in the world. No5 pioneers a new form of advertising in the world of fragrance. -
Parfum, Chimie Et Création Xavier Fernandez, Sylvain Antoniotti, Éric Bussotti Et Marie-Patricia Hurel
Chimie et physico-chimie des matières premières Parfum, chimie et création Xavier Fernandez, Sylvain Antoniotti, Éric Bussotti et Marie-Patricia Hurel Résumé Le parfum est un produit fascinant dont la création associe l’art, des connaissances empiriques et la science. Sa formule est issue du mélange de plusieurs dizaines de composés odorants et extraits naturels (le concentré de parfum) dans de l’éthanol. L’examen de l’histoire du parfum à travers les siècles montre le rôle capital joué par la chimie. L’obtention de solvants organiques purs mais surtout la mise à disposition de composés odorants synthétiques ont complètement bouleversé la parfumerie pour conduire aux parfums modernes, compagnons quotidiens de notre vie. Mots-clés Parfum, odeur, formulation, accord, extraits naturels, synthèse organique. Abstract Perfume, chemistry and creation The perfume is a fascinating material whose creation is guided by art, empirical knowledge and science. Its formula arises from the mixture of dozens of odorant compounds and natural extracts in ethanol. An overview of the history of perfumes across the centuries shows the central role of chemistry. The manufacture of solvents of high purity and the chemical synthesis of key-odorants have dramatically influenced perfumery, leading to modern fragrances, daily companions of our lives. Keywords Perfume, fragrance, formulation, harmony, natural extracts, organic synthesis. e mot parfum tire son origine du latin per fumum d’un concentré de parfum ou jus (15 à 30 %) dans de l’alcool L signifiant « par la fumée », en référence à la première éthylique à 90°. Cependant pour le grand public, le terme méthode connue d’obtention de fragrances subtiles par parfum est plus ambigu puisqu’il fait référence à une odeur combustion de gommes ou de résines (myrrhe, encens) aussi bien qu’à divers produits (parfum, soie de parfum*, eau récoltées sur des arbres de la famille des burseracées [1].