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Travel, Pictures, and a Victorian Gentleman In HESPERIA 78 (2OO9) TRAVEL, PICTURES, Pages 421-453 AND A VICTORIAN GENTLEMAN IN GREECE ABSTRACT The rise ofmass tourism in the late 19th century coincided with advances in photographic technology thatmade it easier for travelers to document their journeys. In the 1890s, the clergyman and scientistT. R. R. Stebbing made a photographic record of his travels in the easternMediterranean. Stebbings images reproduce a way of looking at antiquity prescribed by 19th-century a guidebooks, thereby encoding conventionalWestern view of antiquity. In an corporated into academic network of slide collections, Stebbings images an contributed to authoritative scholarly construction of the classical world inBritain during the early 20th century. INTRODUCTION Travel, and particularly that by-product of travel, travelwriting, have been the focus of much scholarly attention.1 Studies trace the rise of modern travel from itsbeginnings in theGrand Tour to the Continent by fashion men able, privileged young British and their entourages through the hiatus caused by theNapoleonic Wars to the growing popularity of the picturesque tour pleasure for thewealthy upper and middle classes.2 Most histories of travel leave off before the advent ofmass tourism in themid-19th century its and corollary, anti-tourism conducted by the individual traveler.They the links show between philosophy, literature, politics, and technological saw. advances that shaped how and what travelers Much emphasis has on the been placed traveler rather than the tourist: the unique experience of the rather individual than group sightseeing scripted by tour books 1.1 would like to thank Ben ful and further references. access John suggestions Oxford University, who provided who commented on several drafts errors of to the lantern slide net, Any remaining are, course, my teaching collection own. of this article and offered continuous Paul Smith, the archivist at atOxford and freelygranted permis encouragement. Jack Davis and Yiannis Thomas Cook and Company, kindly sion for use of a number of their Hamilakis sent me comments sent me of documents on Cook's insightful copies images. on an earlier and the two earliest excursions to Greece. 2. Hulme and draft, anony Many See, e.g., Youngs mous reviewers to Hesperia provided help thanks go the Faculty of Classics, 2002. ? The American School of Classical Studies at Athens 422 DEBORAH HARLAN (e.g.,Murray's handbooks and Baedeker's guides) and packaged by tour agents (e.g., Thomas Cook and Son). It is, after all, the individual traveler or so who tells his her story well in the genre of travelwriting. a to Yet tourists also have tale tell.3The stories of these sightseers are preserved in the form of itineraries, boat and train timetables, collections of souvenirs and photographs, and accounts in journals and letters,many not or of which have survived remain in private family collections. One a on such tale is recorded in collection of images taken a tour of the eastern a Mediterranean during the last decade of the 19th century by Victorian gentleman, Thomas Roscoe Reed Stebbing.The collection is housed in the to set archives of the Institute ofArchaeology, Oxford University. In order in Stebbings images context, I review the phenomenon of 19th-century mass a tourism and present short biography of the photographer. Then I turn to as the images themselves, interpreting them Stebbings particular construction of classical antiquity,which in turn is indebted to the 19th century tradition of travel guidebooks. Finally, I trace the career of the as a source Stebbing Collection itself. Stebbings images served for lantern were slides that used in educational contexts, thereby contributing to the general perception of the classical world in early-20th-century Britain. EARLY MASS TOURISM IN THE AEGEAN on During the 18th century,Mediterranean travel theGrand Tour invari were ably meant visiting Italy.4 Romanticized Hellenic ideals primarily was viewed through ancient remains inRoman contexts. This due in part or to the large number of Greek classical works their Roman imitations as as found in collections in Italy, well to the highly influentialwork of the German art historian Johann JoachimWinckelmann, who wrote on the Hellenic ideal but never himself traveled toGreece.5 Also, in theminds of many young British men, therewas a close association between the concept of Augustan Rome and the nascent British Empire.6 Classical education texts at that time tended to highlight the importance of classical primarily content for their grammatical structure, isolating their from the cultures sea on that had created them.7 Furthermore, piracy at and banditry land made travel further east into the Ottoman Empire undesirable to many. or Leisure travel to Greece was unusual; only the very adventurous those a or with specific purpose?diplomatic, scientific, topographic?chose that destination. Even then, these earlier travelers described the Greeks was as the effect as living in degradation. Their condition often explained of Ottoman a rooted in theWestern notion of the oppression,8 diagnosis 3. Buzard 1993;Withey 1997. between East andWest.9 dichotomy 4. Eisner 1991, pp. 75-76;Withey not the to Greek independence in 1832 did immediately open country 1997, pp. 30-31; Buzard 2002. in marketed as a 5. Constantine 1984, pp. 104-127. widespread travel.The firstbook English specifically guide was in 1840: A Trav 6.Turner 1981, pp. 1-2;Hingley to the region published by JohnMurray Handbookfor 2000;Murray 2000, p. 346. ellers in the Ionian Islands, Greece, Turkey,Asia Minor, and Constantinople: 7. 1997, p. 520. a Murray a Guide to the Routes in Those Countries, De 277-279. Being Principal Including 8. E.g., Said 2005, pp. withMaxims and Hints Travellers in theEast.10 This 171-172. scription ofMalta, for 9. Scopetea 2003, pp. was on a an 10. 1840. guidebook based travelogue by Godfrey Levinge, Anglo-Irish Levinge A VICTORIAN GENTLEMAN IN GREECE 423 gentleman who traveled in the East between 1831 and 1833.11While Lev inge's account established the format for future English-language guides, was the substance of his guide typical ofmany other travelogues published in the early 19th century. Although French, British, and Russian soldiers fought in the Greek to War of Independence and eventually helped overthrow the Ottoman to state "yoke,"Western travelers the newly independent nevertheless to continued be disappointed with the degradation of the "real" Greece as or compared to its classical ideal.12 Leontis describes the conceptual or as a cognitive map ofHellas (the topos, place) construct of neo-Hellenic was Western thought.13 In other words, theHellas of these early travelers an own extension of their perceptions; thus, it is not surprising that the as modern Greeks they encountered did not live up to their expectations "paragons of order" descended from the ancestors of European civilization.14 out Gallant and Tzanelli have both pointed that the "Orientalizing" of modern Greece, by the British in particular, coexisted with the contradic tory concept of an ideal Hellas.15 This view served to rationalize control of a was marginal territory in Europe, and its essential dichotomy preserved in theway travelers perceived the Greeks they encountered. as Practical travel difficulties, such highway robbery caused by bands not of roving brigands, did abate during the violent years of the revolution but continued well into and beyond the turbulentmid-19th-century reign an of King Otho.16 However, escalation in violence, namely the seizure of hostages for ransom, peaked in the 1860s and 1870s. Lord Granville, cases foreign secretary under Gladstone, investigated of British hostages to cases abroad from 1860 1881, finding 11 in southern Europe?Spain, Italy,Greece, and the Ottoman Balkans.17 This was considered to be an unusually high number of such incidents,which proved costly to the British was government. The increase in the number of kidnappings explained, in part, by political instability and by the increased presence of British travelers areas and entrepreneurs in these of southern Europe. was as One hostage incident often singled out responsible for stunt a ing nascent tourist trade inGreece. Known as theDilessi orMarathon Murders in the British press, the incident was to become a cause celebre throughout Europe.18 On the afternoon ofApril 21,1870, while returning 11. Gretton 1993,p.viii. from a visit to the ancient site of a of eminent ladies and 12. Herzfeld 1986, p. vii. Marathon, party 13. the secretaries to the British and Italian Leontis 1995, pp. 17-22. gentlemen, including legations, H.Tzanelli 22. was a were 2003, p. captured by band of brigands. The ladies freed, and the captors 15.Gallant 2002, 24-25; pp. requested ransom for themen and amnesty for themselves. Greek officials, Tzanelli 23. 2003, p. refused their however, request. Three of the British gentlemen, including 16.Koliopoulos 1987;Gallant 2001, the to the as well as the to the Italian pp. 29-53. secretary legation, secretary legation were near 17. Blinkhorn2000. killed the village of Dilessi in Boiotia. The Western press sen 18. The London Times the sationalized the reported murders, implying that theGreeks handled the situation incidenton 23,1870, 9-10; Shock and from to April pp. ineptly. outrage foreign governments led the resignation its held the repercussions public's of the Greek cabinet and the adoption of revised to deal attention well into the next and radically policies year with acts of in brigandage. beyond, featuring regularly parlia a Thomas Cook and Son tours toAthens and Con mentary discussions. For detailed began conducting see in and one of their was studyof the incident, Jenkins stantinople 1868, parties present inGreece inApril [1961] 1998. 1870 at the time of theDilessi Murders; further development of the firm's 424 DEBORAH HARLAN area was tourist trade in the duly suspended.19Murray's fourth edition of his a Handbook (1872) includes proviso mentioning the incident and indicating that since 1870 the Greek and Ottoman authorities have tried to provide a "state of comparative safety."20In his travel account Five Weeks in Greece went so as to (1876), J.
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