Rangitoto European History

Rangitoto, the only volcano of its type in Although at first reluctant to buy an New Zealand, emerged from the sea around island that was ‘all rock’, in 1854 the Crown 600 years ago in a series of fiery volcanic purchased Rangitoto for £15 from its Maori explosions. Further eruptions sent red-hot lava owners. The island was designated a flows down the sides of the volcano, forming public domain in 1890, and became a the black basaltic rock that now makes up popular destination for picnickers and boat much of the island. Today Rangitoto is the trippers. largest, youngest and least modified of about During the 1920s and ‘30s, prisoners 50 volcanic cones and craters in the Auckland built 19 km of handpacked roads and volcanic field. It is probably extinct, although trails, some of which are now used as the Auckland field is only dormant. walkways on the island. The island's roads The island’s name is derived from the were built between 1929 and 1936. Bach phrase ‘Te Rangi totongia a Tamatekapua – the sites were leased to help pay for island Devonport and the Waitemata Harbour from above Parnell - 1877 Watercolour Alfred Sharpe day the blood of Tamatekapua was shed’. developments. There have been small Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, NZ Tamatekapua was chief of the Arawa canoe numbers of people on the island for over 80 Vegetation which arrived about 1350, and was engaged years, including a few permanent residents in in (and lost) a major battle with the Tainui at earlier years. When the present leases end the The lava rock of Rangitoto seems an Islington Bay. intention is to preserve some of the baches inhospitable environment for plant life. It is for their historic and architectural interest. highly porous, there is no soil, little permanent During World War II Rangitoto was a Maori History water, and the black rock soars to very high prohibited area and the summit was used as a temperatures. But on this strange and alien base for harbour defence fire control and as a There are several Maori myths associated landscape, a distinctive plant community is radar station. There was also a large complex with Rangitoto. One tells of the children of the developing. of buildings at Islington Bay from which the Fire deities, who inhabited the Auckland area. Mosses, lichen and algae are the first harbour’s minefields were operated. One night a husband and wife quarrelled and plants to colonise the bare lava. Later on cursed the fire deity Mahuika. She complained in the process of succession, pohutukawa The Department of Conservation now looks to Mataoho, the deity of earthquakes and trees establish and are the dominant tree. after the island in partnership with the tangata eruptions, who sent an eruption to destroy the Rangitoto now has the largest remaining whenua, seeking to conserve its natural and couple’s mountain home. It was swallowed pohutukawa forest in New Zealand. historic features and to provide recreational up by the earth and became Lake Pupuke Pohutukawa seeds take root, in humus- opportunities. on Auckland’s North Shore, and Rangitoto filled crevices on the lava. As they grow, they rose out of the sea. When mist surrounds form islands of vegetation, their branches Rangitoto, it is the tears of the couple as they sheltering, shading and growing humus for weep over their lost home. other plants like mingimingi, koromiko, and Maori were living on Motutapu Island when puka. Eventually the “islands” of vegetation Rangitoto erupted from the sea depositing link to form a continuous forest cover. layers of fertile volcanic ash on their island. Rangitoto hosts over 250 species of native The dramatic appearance of this spectacular trees and flowering plants, more than 40 landmark ensured it an important place in kinds of fern, and several species of orchids. Maori history and mythology. It has remained Although most are common species, they a place of considerable significance to Maori often behave in unique ways because of and is considered wahi tapu (a sacred place). the unusual conditions. Mangroves, which Rangitoto’s rocky terrain was unsuitable for usually grow in the mud of tidal estuaries, are permanent settlement, though there is some found here growing directly on lava. An alpine evidence of coastal fishing villages. It was lichen, usually found high in the mountains, used as a look-out over the Hauraki Gulf and Minefield base at Islington Bay built during WWII. grows at sea level. Unusual hybrids have its islands. Photo: 1948. RNZN Museum developed, such as a cross between a

Visiting the Island Welcome Rangitoto Island What you need to bring Rangitoto Island, one of 47 islands Water/drink. The only drinking water included in the Hauraki Gulf Marine Park, Scenic Reserve available is a fountain at Rangitoto Wharf. is administered by the Department of Sturdy walking shoes/boots that can cope Conservation. Day visitors are welcome to Hauraki Gulf Marine Park with the island's rugged lava surfaces. the island, and can explore a number of well- marked tracks and roads. Visitor information Sunhat and sunscreen. The heat rays is sited at Rangitoto and Yankee Wharves. reflecting off the lava can be intense. A torch if exploring the caves. There is no accommodation on Rangitoto, Getting There but neighbouring Motutapu has a basic campsite at Home Bay, and an outdoor Fullers Ferries run a regular ferry service. education centre and lodge at Administration Take care not to miss your ferry back as there Bay. is no overnight accommodation on the island and alternative transport to the mainland is expensive! Looking after the Island Fullers have a concession to operate a 4 wheel drive guided tour to the start of the Please Summit boardwalk (10 min to Summit). Dogs and cats are not allowed on the (Phone 09-367 9111 for bookings and island because they are a threat to native details.) birds Do not light open fires. There is a barbecue at the causeway. For more Information Please do not pick vegetation, or disturb DOC Information Centre historic artefacts – they belong here ph 09-379 6476 fax 09-379 3609 Take your rubbish off the island with you. email: [email protected] There are no rubbish disposal facilities on website: www.doc.govt.nz Rangitoto Keep to the tracks so you don’t disturb For information on bach restoration contact: plant life, or endanger yourself on the lava Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust, No firearms 33 Marine Parade Herne Bay No camping Contact Elizabeth Andrew 09-634 1398 or No mountain bikes Susan Yoffe 09-445 1894

Non-compliance with these conditions Emergencies: may result in prosecution. To report accident, fire or other emergencies contact Motutapu Ranger Ph: 09-372 2060/(0274) 372 576 or Auckland Conservancy Office 09-307 9279 (24hrs) or Fire: Ph: 111

Missed the last ferry? Phone the Water Taxi for The crater of Rangitoto Island - Charles Heaphy 1820-1881 assistance 0800 Taxi Boat (0800 829 426) Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, NZ

Published by the Department of Conservation Auckland Conservancy February 2001. Revised May 2003. Crown Copyright. Walks and Highlights

Walks begin at Rangitoto, Islington Bay and Yankee Wharves. Walking times are based on an average to slow pace, and will vary with different levels of fitness.

Main Summit Walking Tracks

SUMMIT TRACK Time: 1 hour one way from Rangitoto Wharf. Distance: 2 kilometres Conservation Officer Jim Henry, ravaged The shortest and most popular forest - 1990. Photo: NZ Herald route to the summit begins at After over a century of browsing by Rangitoto Wharf and climbs introduced possums and wallabies the through lava fields and forest forests on Rangitoto were on the point to the peak at 259 metres of collapse. Commencing in 1990 the above sea level. A few hundred Start of Summit Track- from Department of Conservation carried FLAX POINT & HISTORIC BACHES Rangitoto Wharf out a 10 year programme to remove metres from the start, you will Time: 1 hr these pests from Rangitoto Island and notice a large flat clearing. This A coastal walk to a black-back gull breeding neighbouring Motutapu. was made by prison labour in colony at Flax Point. Rangitoto has several Conservation Officer Jim Henry, restored forest - 2000. Photo: NZ Herald the 1930s and was the planned nesting sites for the gulls. The gulls make pohutukawa and northern rata. Many site of five tennis courts and their nests in the open on lava beds. Eggs epiphytes such as astelias, and kohurangi or a pavilion (they never eventuated owing to are hatched in December and January. A Kirk’s daisy, which normally clamber over the lack of finance). Rest stops and descriptive shorter walk of about 15 minutes following high branches of trees, grow from the ground interpretation signs are sited along the the coast takes in some of the remaining on Rangitoto. track. The summit gives panoramic views of historic baches. Auckland and the Hauraki Gulf. At the summit Wildlife another track circles the rim of the crater. Longer Walks

In pre-European times Rangitoto is said to LAVA CAVES TRACK LIGHTHOUSE WALK TO McKENZIE BAY Time: 15 min from Summit Track, 60 min have been a reserve for kaka, New Zealand’s Time: 2 hr 30 min one way from Rangitoto *The Rangitoto wrecks native parrot. Today fantails, grey warblers, from Wharf one way. 1 hr 45 min wharf Wharf (to Summit add 1 hr 15min) silvereyes, tui, tomtits and moreporks are – lava caves – Summit Road – Summit This walk winds along the coast to McKenzie A list of ships run aground among the birds that inhabit the Rangitoto This short diversion off the Summit Track Bay, one of the two natural sand beaches on or scuttled off Rangitoto. forest. In general there are fewer bush birds leads to lava tunnels and caves. These are Rangitoto and a good picnic and swimming than might be expected – probably because formed when the outer surface of a lava flow spot. (The road continues on to the summit Arapawa the newly developed forests don’t yet carry cools and solidifies, enclosing a tongue of for those who want a really long walk – add Clara Hargrave (ex Achilles) a lot of food types and thus have restricted still-moving lava inside. As the inner fluid lava 1 hr) drains away, the outer shell is left as a cave or Columbia (Show Boat) biodiversity. Thousands of black-back gulls Duchess (Lady of the tunnel. Return to Summit Track or the Summit build their nests across the broken scoria RANGITOTO WHARF - SUMMIT - ISLINGTON Gulf) fields, and there are two major colonies on Road via the signposted track. BAY WHARF Dartford the island. Other seabirds such as shags and Time: 2 hr 30 min Elinor Vernon terns are also common. WILSON PARK TRACK Take the Summit Track from Rangitoto Wharf, Gladbrook (ex County of Time: 1 hr 45 min from Wharf to summit. and at the summit follow the road down to Anglesea) Possums and wallabies were introduced to 45 minutes from Summit Track turn-off Islington Bay. This is a good walk if you Jubilee Ngapuhi Motutapu Island from Australia in the late to Summit can arrange a ferry pick-up at Islington Bay This alternative route to the summit branches Northern Chief 1800s. From Motutapu they quickly invaded – make sure you check the ferry timetable first Polly (ex Skovland) off the Summit Track before the Lava Caves Rangitoto. The combination of possums as Islington Bay stops are seasonal. Rarawa browsing the forest canopy and wallabies Track turnoff. Wilson was an Englishman Rothesay Bay (ex Activ) browsing the lower forest tiers caused who planned to create a botanical park on COASTAL TRACK - RANGITOTO WHARF TO significant damage to Rangitoto’s vegetation. Rangitoto in 1915, and introduced such exotic ISLINGTON BAY WHARF Over the years the By the 1980s, they were threatening to plants as cacti, figs, and pawpaws. Two Time: 2 hr 30 min hulks have gradually destroy the rare pohutukawa forest. To remaining lava pillars on either side of the This coastal walk passes many remnants of deteriorated and been broken up by wave action counter this threat the Department of track were to have been the ‘Park’ gates. human activity – boatsheds and baches near - in much the same way Conservation completed a major ten year Rangitoto Wharf, old quarry sites, the ruins of as other shipwrecks on Short Walks -from Rangitoto Wharf long pest eradication programme in 1999, wartime storage bases for mines, and Yankee the sea bed break up in removing both possums and wallabies. The Wharf built during World War II. Islington Bay exposed places. Some vegetation communities on Rangitoto are KOWHAI GROVE is popular for swimming, picnicking and yacht large pieces of wreckage now threatened by the expansion of invasive Time: 45 min round trip anchorage. remain on the foreshore weeds such as Spanish heath, rhamnus, This short walk leads to a small kowhai grove, or in the intertidal zone at pines and gorse. Efforts are being made especially attractive in spring when the trees RANGITOTO WHARF TO ISLINGTON BAY Wreck Bay, Boulder Bay, and along the adjacent to control and/or eradicate many of these are flowering. WHARF (INLAND) coastline. In many cases serious plant pests. Time: 1 hr 30 min it is difficult to work out KIDNEY FERN GLEN This alternative route to Islington Bay passes which ship the wreckage Time: 45 min round trip along a road built by prisoners. The road has come from. A track branching off the Summit Track leads continues on over the causeway to Motutapu through a glen of delicate, translucent kidney Island. The Rangitoto hulks ferns, at their best after rain. are now a regionally ISLINGTON BAY WHARF TO HOME BAY significant heritage (MOTUTAPU) site protected by the Auckland Regional Time: 1 hr 45 min one way Council and Department From Islington Bay, cross the causeway of Conservation. Please to Motutapu Island. A walk over farmland do not remove or disturb and cliff tops leads to Home Bay where a any of the remains.

ISLINGTON BAY ROAD TO WRECK BAY Time: 1 hr one way The Wreck Bay Track takes a twisting route to a bay on the northern side of Rangitoto. Wreck Bay and adjacent Boulder Bay were once used as a dumping ground for old ships. At Wreck Bay are the remains of the Ngapuhi, Elinor Vernon, Arapawa, and Dartford.Best visited at low tide.* Nineteenth Century picnic party - Auckland Institute Museum Library