JAPAN’S GROWING WEB/3 LIZ TO EXIT VIETNAM/5 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • January 2, 2007 • $2.00

WWDTUESDAY ▲ Lily Allen at the Chanel show Ready-to-Wear/Textiles in October. For more on the Frock Around -loving singer, see page 8. The Clock Stores are preparing to roll out spring merchandise, and retailers have placed their bets on the key item of the season: the dress. Around the country, sales fl oors will be stocked with them in all shapes and styles, such as Oscar de la Renta’s printed cotton matelassé Empire number, $2,550, at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, shown here. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Tough Love on Trade: New Congress’ Stance Stirs Industry to Adapt By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON —

STYLED BY CAROLINE ANGEL; LILY ALLEN COURTESY OF CHANEL ALLEN COURTESY CAROLINE ANGEL; LILY STYLED BY Congress returns this week under the control of Democrats for the first time in 12 years and its new agenda is expected to reshape the industry’s business and sourcing strategies. The Democrats’ new goals for trade policy will drive some of the action on Capitol Hill early on and industry executives are closely watching which philosophy will prevail: free trade, which places an emphasis on lowering barriers for imports and increasing market access for U.S. exports, or fair trade, which focuses on protecting workers’ See Congress, Page 10 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: KARLA DEVINE/NEXT; HAIR BY KATY YUNG; MAKEUP BY MICHELLE COURSEY AT ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; MICHELLE COURSEY AT YUNG; MAKEUP BY KATY HAIR BY CENTENO; MODEL: KARLA DEVINE/NEXT; TALAYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 WWD.COM Ecco Domani to Name Winners WWDTUESDAY By Marc Karimzadeh Erin Sans’ Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Fetherston Alessandro — Ecco DeVito Do mani is expected FASHION and Lika have been gaining momentum for several seasons, and with to name six emerging Volkova. designers or labels as 6 spring lines about to hit the stores, retailers expect the category to soar. recipients of its annual Fashion Foundation awards today. GENERAL This year’s winners TEXTILES: Congress returns this week under the control of Democrats are Erin Fetherston, 1 and its agenda is expected to reshape business and sourcing strategies. Naum by Waleed Khair- Ecco Domani is expected to name six emerging designers or labels as zada and Julia Jentzsch, 2 recipients of its annual Fashion Foundation awards today. Sans by Lika Volkova and Alessandro DeVito, Driven by the outlook for strong growth in Internet retailing, including via Angel Chang and Tom 3 cell phones, Japanese stores are strengthening their online operations. Scott for women’s wear EYE: There are few things that rankle Skye Gyngell as much as a blackberry and Patrik Ervell for GIOVANNI GIANNONI JOHN AQUINO; FETHERSTON BY PHOTO BY NAUM 4 imported from Peru, a farmed salmon or a dinner made in four minutes. men’s wear. Each will receive $25,000 to- Major trading powers are expected to put more pressure on China to ward putting on a run- 11 open its lucrative market as part of the troubled global trade talks. way show during next RTW: To showcase her own bridal line and her for Badgley month’s fashion week. 12 Mischka Bridal, Anne Barge is opening a new retail space in Atlanta. The six designers were selected from Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 more than 100 appli- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. cants nationwide and [email protected], using the individual’s name. had to fulfill several requirements to sub- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. mit their bids. These VOLUME 193, NO. 1. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one included being in busi- additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ness for no more than additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by five years, having at Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive least one retail account, Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail references and look Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return books or photographs of undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: their designs. The panel SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE of judges then whittled INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit the list down to 25 semi- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new fi nalists before select- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, ing the fi nal six. This is the sixth year wine com- please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other pany Ecco Domani has sponsored the awards. Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list In women’s wear, the judges were Julie Gilhart, available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Barneys New York’s vice president of fashion mer- 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, chandising; Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s vice president OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, and women’s fashion director; Sally Singer, Vogue’s BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED Naum’s Julia Jentzsch and Waleed Khairzada. MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR fashion news and features director; Marylou CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Luther, editor at International Fashion Syndicate; DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED Kim Hastreiter, editor in chief and publisher of Paper Magazine, and MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Ruth Finley, publisher of The Fashion Calendar. For men’s wear, they were Jay Bell, men’s wear buyer at Barneys; Madeline Weeks, GQ’s fash- TUESDAY: New York Fall Apparel Market (through Jan. 12). ion director, and Armand Limnander, senior editor of T, Style Magazine. FRIDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the Decem- “The success of [Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation] is undeniably ber employment report. due to the outstanding judging panel and their remarkable ability to identify the future stars of fashion,” David Bowman, marketing direc- SATURDAY: Designers & Agents, New York (through Jan. 8). tor for Ecco Domani wines, said in a statement. “We are proud to have Nouveau Collective, New York (through Jan. 9). seen so many past EDFF alumni go on to successful, lucrative fashion careers. We congratulate this year’s winners, who join this elite group SUNDAY: Accessorie Circuit, Intermezzo Collections, of fashion visionaries.” Children’s Club, AccessoriesTheShow, Moda Manhattan Past recipients of the award include Rodarte designers Laura and and Fame, New York (through Jan. 9). COMING THIS WEEK Kate Mulleavy, Thakoon Panichgul, Doo-Ri Chung, Derek Lam, Proenza Angel Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Zac Posen and Chang Brian Reyes. In Brief ● AMERICAN INVASION: is planning a British offensive. The Los Angeles-based company, which already has Speedo in Licensing Deal With Mitsui & Co. three London stores, is planning three more U.K. openings by the end of this year. The company would not confi rm locations, By Samantha Conti age all licensing activity and will coordinate all but said Mayfair, Camden and Covent Garden were neighbor- marketing efforts in the Japanese market. hoods being short-listed within London, as well as the cities of LONDON — Speedo has formed a new strate- Speedo said in a statement that, as part of the Manchester and Birmingham. It added that spaces of 3,500 to gic alliance in Japan with Mitsui & Co. Ltd. The deal, Goldwin Inc. has been granted the exclu- 4,000 square feet were being scouted, and that it was also con- London-based sports and swimwear company sive licensing and distribution rights for the core sidering an opening in Ireland. “Nothing is signed yet,” said a has granted the master license for Speedo to the Speedo product categories of swimwear, apparel spokeswoman for the brand. “American Apparel is such a suc- Japanese company in a deal beginning June 1. and equipment. cess in London already, it would be a shame not to expand. We Mitsui, one of the largest enterprises in Japan Goldwin is a major Japanese manufacturer of have a Web site, and we’ve realized there’s also a demand out- with revenues in excess of $120 billion, will man- and equipment, working with brands side London, and so want to be in other places, too.” American under its own trademarks as Apparel was bought this month by Endeavor Acquisition Corp. well as licensed trademarks. It currently operates in excess of ● NEW DISCOVERY: Maureen Watson, former vice president 100 retail stores in Japan. of merchandising for kids’ at Old Navy, has joined Discovery Speedo’s current licensee in Commerce as executive vice president of merchandising and Japan is Mizuno Corp. Mizuno product development. In her new job, Watson will oversee the is focusing on the development entire merchant, product development, planning and visual of its own brand, and by mutual merchandising departments for Discovery’s retail channels — agreement, Mizuno and Speedo Discovery Channel Store, discoverystore.com and the Discovery have decided to terminate their Channel Catalog. Discovery Commerce is the retail and licensing relationship, the statement said. division of Discovery Communications Inc. Watson will report to The licensing relationship be- Discovery Commerce president Frank Rosales. Watson’s retail tween Speedo and Mizuno goes career began in 1989 in the Saks Fifth Avenue executive training back 40 years, and the statement program. Subsequently, she spent nine years at Gap, where she said the split was amicable. The rose to senior merchandiser at Gap Brand and then vice presi- two companies will part ways as dent at Old Navy, until the end of November. of May 31. WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 3 WWD.COM

the main hosts due to their main work responsibilities at the magazine. “If it gets picked up, Chris will likely make Japanese Retailers Look MEMO PAD some guest appearances,” Cornwell added. — Amy Wicks IT’S ONLY ABOUT US: The wane of the year seems to WHICH IS WHICH AGAIN?: Dedicated watchers of the have inspired some magazines to navel-gaze more To Grow Web Presence Olsen twins have no trouble telling the two apart, but than usual — that, or the rash of magazine TV shows apparently the folks at Star do these days. The cover is getting to editors’ heads. Self is a little, well, self- By Tsukasa Furukawa story of the Jan. 8 issue, now referential at the bottom half on newsstands, questions of Lucy Danziger’s editor’s TOKYO — Japanese retailers are getting serious about whether Mary-Kate Olsen has letter this month, devoting it the Web. relapsed into anorexia and to photos of “The Self Baby Driven by the outlook for signifi cant growth in Internet assembles a raft of haggard Boom” of 2006, during which retailing, including via cell phones, more and more stores photos of the tiny starlet to staffers had a total of 11 are strengthening their online operations to generate prove its case. Problem is, not babies. Danziger also notes sales and increase their customer bases. all of them are of Mary-Kate. that another achievement last Most department stores have been slow to grow their A full-length shot on page year was Self’s fi rst National Web operations, but now are recognizing its potential. 51 of a dark-haired Olsen in Magazine Award. “It was just Online department store sales in Japan grew by 2.5 times a and big an incredible year and while in the eight years to fi scal 2005, to 12.1 billion yen, or (to “hide sunken cheeks,” we don’t always do behind- $103.4 million at current exchange. But the fi gure is a the magazine helpfully notes) the-scenes editorials, this mere 0.2 percent of all department store sales, according is unmistakably the other achievement — an award- to the Japan Department Stores Association. twin, Ashley. A spokeswoman winning year and 11 babies The association, in launching a new marketing-orient- for the sisters confi rmed — made me so proud of the ed portal site on the Internet in support of its 96 member the uncredited photo was Self team I couldn’t resist,” companies, noted e-commerce is becoming a “growing of Ashley, not of Mary-Kate. said Danziger. sales channel” for department stores and an important Star could not be reached Meanwhile, over at Esquire, focus of the industry. for comment, but perhaps it the “Those Responsible” page, While department stores have been slow to expand should remember next time which is usually devoted to into e-commerce, the overall market continues to boom. that the two, though similar contributors’ bios, has been According to the latest market research report on e-com- looking, are fraternal, not temporarily replaced with an merce by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry identical twins. — Irin Carmon interview with editor in chief covering the 2005 calendar year, the Japanese business- David Granger’s assistant for the to-consumer e-commerce market was worth an estimated SCIENCE SMACKDOWN: Add last nine years, the “ageless” 3.5 trillion yen, or $30 billion. This translated to an e-com- Wired — that magazine for Fran Kessler. She waxes wise merce rate of 1.2 percent in Japan, against 2.4 percent futurists and computer geeks Page 51 from the Jan. 8 issue of Star. about religion (“The Red Sea in the U.S., according to the report, which is based on a alike — to the stream of parting. Bah! The tide was survey of 331 enterprises and 1,000 consumers. Condé Nast titles pushing into multimedia. down!”) and her job (“I love the idea of getting up, The same report estimates Japan’s business-to-busi- The title has produced a pilot program, “Wired putting the makeup on and going to the offi ce.”) As for ness market in 2005 at 140 trillion yen, or $1.2 trillion, in Science,” as part of PBS’s drive to fi nd the next the rationale behind ignoring all the other contributors a narrow defi nition of e-commerce, and 224 trillion yen, “Nova.” The episode, which airs Wednesday, will this month to focus on his assistant, Granger said: or $1.91 trillion, in a broad defi nition. compete in an “American Idol”-style competition that “Because the staff has all benefi ted from [Kessler’s] E-commerce is taking on diverse forms. Takashimaya, is pegging “Wired Science” against two other pilots to wisdom, from her experience and, especially her strong for one, is poised to expand aggressively online. The com- fi nd out which show PBS viewers like best. The winner opinions, we decided to share a small portion of her pany has created a new unit called “e-business group” will be given the green light to produce a 10-week insight with our readers.” — I.C. with plans to start a new transactional Web site, tentatively series, set to begin airing this fall. named “E-Department Store” early this year to promote a So what’s the competition? “Wired Science,” a ARRIVALS AT DEPARTURES: Newly returned Time Inc.-er range of global brands. Takashimaya is aiming for online co-production of KCET/Los Angeles and Wired, is up and former Cargo editor in chief Ariel Foxman isn’t sales of 10 billion yen, or $85.5 million, in fi scal 2009. against “Science Investigators,” which adapts PBS’s the only veteran of the title to land a new job. Matt Meanwhile, Daimaru Department Stores has started “History Detectives” format for scientifi c subjects, and Trainor, who was the magazine’s senior editor until it selling cosmetics whose brand names are less known on- “22nd Century,” a show that will examine long-term closed in March and started out as Graydon Carter’s line at its new Web site, “Marucollet.” implications of today’s scientifi c advances from various assistant, will join Departures as associate articles Parco Co., a major retail promoter that operates 18 shop- perspectives. Viewer feedback and additional audience- editor, a new position. Also fi lling a new, loftier spot ping complexes throughout Japan, has unveiled plans to based research will drive PBS’s fi nal selection. on the masthead is Jeff Garigliano, who is jumping ship open an online shopping mall, “Parco City,” this spring. The But don’t expect editor in chief Chris Anderson to from Fortune Small Business to be executive editor. company expects to attract 150 “tenants” offering a variety become the next Nina Garcia, or even Carl Sagan. Melanie The person who previously occupied that slot on the of product lines, including women’s, men’s and children’s Cornwell, editorial projects director at Wired, said that, Departures masthead, former deputy editor Norman wear. Parco is teaming with Digital Direct Inc., a direct- although six of the editors, including Anderson, “all Vanamee, left to edit the new Web-to-print Sherman’s marketing subsidiary of Mitsubishi Corp., on the project. provide crucial input” for the program, none will serve as Travel magazine. — I.C. One business model here is a collaboration among retail- ers, Internet companies, trading fi rms, fashion magazines and other media. Take magaseek corp., an online sales com- pany in which Itochu Corp., a leading trading fi rm, has a stake. The Internet company proved so successful that it is 3Lab Drafts Blueprint for Growth listed on the Tokyo Stock Exchange. The key is linking mar- keting with fashion magazines to lure traffi c and readers. In reators of the prestige skin care line 3Lab are div- Originally developed by two chemists and a der- the project, magaseek is working with such popular fashion Cing more deeply into the U.S. market with a new matologist in their headquarters in Englewood, N.J., magazines as Ray, CanCam, With, More and Lee. president, a retail store and an unnamed department 3Lab products were launched in 2004 on the compa- A similar Internet marketing company is Stylife Corp., store presence. ny’s Web site and in Chung’s stores. The product line- which listed on the Osaka Stock Exchange last year and Kanis, who formerly served in senior up ranges from skin brighteners to facial cleansers. is a spin-off from the trading company Nichimen. Stylife management positions with Each of the products is infused posted sales of 3.59 billion yen, or $30.7 million, in fi scal Intercosmetics and Estée Lauder with botanicals and patented 2005, growing 3.3 times in the fi ve years since it made its International, is now president of compounds. debut in 2000. The site offers such brands as Next, Red 3Lab. The chief executive offi cer Included with the store launch Clover, Libertine and No-Name. is owner David Chung, who has BEAUTY BEAT will come several new products, Then there is ZozoTown, a virtual shopping town es- two beauty stores in Los Angeles including the WW Cream and tablished on the Internet by Start Today Co. last year that and New York. 3Lab’s latest “h” Serum. The WW Cream (2 ounces reportedly will generate sales in excess of 10 billion yen, Kanis said part of his plans for the offerings. priced at $400) contains an exclusive or $85.5 million, in the fi scal year ending in March. A view- company include expanding the brand’s proprietary complex said to reduce er can visually walk around the town to shop at various loyal customer base, beginning with the facial wrinkles, accelerate skin cell stores on the site, which offer such brands as American opening of a retail store. turnover and brighten skin tone for a Rag, Hysteric Glamour, R. Newbold, Diesel, Aquagirl and The 1,500-square-foot SoHo store, youthful complexion. The “h” Serum (1 Odette é Odile. slated to open in March, will house at ounce for $160) contains Nano-Claire Another strategy is evidenced by Tokyo Girls Collection, least 19 stockkeeping units from the GY, a cosmetic-grade bioactive synthetic which is touted as Japan’s largest consumer fashion show. product line as well as treatment rooms growth material that claims to supple- Visitors can immediately purchase what they see at the staffed with aestheticians to apply the ment growth hormones naturally pro- show by using their cell phones to connect to the Internet. products. duced in the body to reverse the aging The show, which is sponsored biannually by Xavel Inc., at- “A lot of times women really don’t process of the skin. Products for men tracted more than 18,000 young women in September to a have confi dence or knowledge about are scheduled to be available in stores Tokyo Olympic gymnasium. Xavel, by marketing the show what or why they are using the prod- in August. via various media, is establishing TGC as a brand name, ucts,” said John Kressaty, executive “All women say they don’t have and has launched a Web site, Fashionwalker.com, that of- vice president of 3Lab. “This will be perfect skin, they aspire to it,” Kanis fers brands such as Earnest Sewn, Betsey Johnson, BeneFit, like a private type of spa for people to said. “We always try to perfect how we Rock & Republic, Strawberry Fields and Silver . feel, touch and learn more about the live our lives, and that’s what it’s all Along with online, TV shopping is another channel that PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY products.” about. [3Lab] is a perfect combination continues to grow. Jupiter Shop Channel, the largest TV Within the same month of the SoHo store opening, of mixing science and natural botanicals.” shopping channel in Japan, reported an increase in rev- will come the skin care brand’s expected department Although the company is a privately held corpora- enues in 2005 for the ninth consecutive year to 76.1 billion store debut. Although the company is still in negotia- tion, industry sources estimate that retail sales could yen, or $650 million, a jump of 51 percent from the previous tions and Kressaty declined to describe the venue, he hit $5 million, once the line is stocked in the SoHo year. The company also has started two Web sites, one for said the line will be on sale with the new retail partner shop and gains department store distribution. computers and the other for cell phones, to enhance sales. by February with at least 19 sku’s. — Andrea Arterbery 4 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 WWD.COM Gender Bender Tomboy or girly girl? These days, there’s no need to choose. Just take Penélope Cruz, Cameron Diaz and Cate Blanchett, who moved gracefully between glammed-out gowns and tailored as they made the international rounds of awards shows, premieres and press appearances. Keeping accessories minimal and hair and makeup simple, the trio showed off their chic as both Victor and Victoria. URSERY

Cameron Diaz Penélope Cruz in in Gucci… Ralph Lauren… Cate Blanchett in Rodarte…

…and in Yves Saint Laurent. …and in Chanel.

…and in a Juicy Couture , Stella McCartney top and Isabel Marant pants.

Leila Fazel HAIR OF THE DOG Food for Thought The holiday season can mean a veritable marathon of feasts and fetes. So for those LONDON — There are few things that Produce at the overindulgers vowing to clean up their act, rankle Skye Gyngell as much as a blackberry Petersham Cafe. WWD called in an expert: Leila Fazel, a imported from Peru, a farmed salmon or a co-founder of the Meatpacking District’s dinner thrown together in four minutes. Aerospace High Performance Center and The 45-year-old chef has become a now a second Aerospace and Aerospa in the crusader for seasonal, locally sourced, Gramercy Park Hotel. “I incorporate these tips ethically produced food, and her creations into my everyday life,” says the 39-year-old have attracted fans such as Mick Jagger, former ballet dancer of her recommendations Jerry Hall and designer Paul Smith to a below. And it’s never soon enough to get tiny restaurant with dirt fl oors. started: With Fashion Week moved up to the “Each season, nature plonks things beginning of February this year, there isn’t down in a perfect way for us,” says much time to get in shape for the next party Gyngell, a willowy Australian who is the merry-go-round. — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz chef at the Petersham Cafe just outside London. “We should be eating seasonally ● “Start your exercise program now. Work and…respecting the product as much as OF PETERSHAM JOHN CALABRESE; N PETERSHAM BY CAFE COURTESY FAZEL YASKY/WIREIMAGE; JON FURNISS/WIREIMAGE AND LALO EIMAGE; DIAZ BY at fi nding something that interests you and possible when cooking.” keeps you engaged physically and mentally. The restaurant, which opened in Find a personal trainer that can help you May 2004, is located in one of the reach your goals — exercise will improve greenhouses at Petersham Nurseries, your physical condition and appearance, which in turn makes one feel good. It also and the surroundings are decidedly rustic releases endorphins that will help with one’s overall mood. — regulars generally wear Wellies, not Louboutins, to lunch, and always keep an ● Get a facial — they are not just a luxury. Getting your skin cleansed and treated handy in case they have to dash to the off-site bathroom in the rain. professionally will improve its condition. Now Gyngell, who has worked at London’s Dorchester hotel, Dodin-Bouffant in Paris and as a freelance private chef for the likes of Madonna and Mario Testino, is bringing her food ● Drink plenty of water (not just any liquid will do). Staying hydrated is a must — philosophy to a wider audience, with her fi rst cookbook, “A Year in My Kitchen” (Quadrille). it helps eliminate the toxins that build up in the body, and we often confuse The book features a “toolbox” of basic recipes, including chicken stock, braised dehydration with hunger. lentils, tomato and chili jam, fl avored yogurts and basil oil, which Gyngell uses as ingredients to fl avor the meals in the rest of the book. ● With New York’s new, warmer climate, we are seeing bare skin all year-round. “If you master the toolbox, the world is yours,” says Gyngell, who has divided the Get a spa exfoliation every three months and keep a loofah at home for a weekly chapters by season. Her dishes include sweet potato and ginger soup, roasted halibut regimen. Apply a moisturizer right after a shower or bath while the skin is still warm with Szechuan aubergines and lamb with sprouting broccoli, anchovy and harissa. and pores are still open. For extra-soft and glowing skin, opt for a light oil instead of Although her recipes embrace a variety of cultures and food traditions, Gyngell tries to keep the typical lotion. the produce she uses as local as possible, and is fi ercely proud of Britain’s food producers. “I think Britain has the best seafood in the world. The cold-water fi sh is the ● Regain control over your eating habits. The usual tendency is to let yourself go sweetest,” says the chef, who also sings the praises of Galloway beef, Hardwick lamb, during the holidays. Now, your portions and make a conscious effort to add Saddleback pigs and a gentleman known simply as Albert the Grouseman, who supplies more fruits and vegetables to your daily diet, but don’t deprive yourself. Starving to Petersham’s kitchen with rabbit, partridge and wild duck. lose weight will create a negative yo-yo cycle that can become hard to break. She uses more than 60 local suppliers for Petersham Cafe’s cheeses, eggs, apple cider, wild mushrooms, hops, horseradish and nettles, but also looks beyond Britain’s ● Try to get eight hours of sleep a night. Sleep is still one of the best beauty secrets borders to source her mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses, lentils, olive oil and balsamic around. And for a bonus beauty tip, try to squeeze in a 20-minute nap when you can. vinegar. While Italian produce may not exactly be local, Gyngell says she keeps to the seasons and tries to keep the food mileage to a minimum. ● Set realistic goals for yourself and work diligently toward them. Striving for Gyngell admits, though, that her crusade is an uphill effort, and that it’s going to be perfection is hard on the ego since you will never get there. Focus on positive steps diffi cult to change the general food culture in Britain. and don’t beat yourself up. “Let’s face it, seasonal, sustainable, organic eating is a very bourgeois concept. And it’s expensive. Most kids don’t even know what vegetables taste like anymore. It’s ● Be altruistic, like Iman with her ‘I Am Africa’ campaign. People don’t realize how going to take a lot of time for that mentality to change,” she says. “But people here good it is for your mental state when you take attention off of yourself. Shifting focus are beginning to ask questions now about where food comes from, and, quietly, they’re from ourselves to where it’s really needed can do magical things to our souls. The starting to feel uncomfortable when they go to the supermarket and see blackberries greatest beauty is the kind that radiates from inside. Help someone and see how it from Peru in the middle of winter.” helps you feel and look more beautiful.” — Samantha Conti CRUZ PHOTOS BY RICHARD LEWIS/WIREIMAGE AND JEAN-PAUL AUSSENARD/WIREIMAGE; BLANCHETT SERGE THOMANN/WIREIMAGE AND RJ CAPAK/WIR BY RICHARD LEWIS/WIREIMAGE AND JEAN-PAUL CRUZ PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 5 WWD.COM Vietnam Monitoring Causes Claiborne to Pull Out

By Evan Clark product that is in direct competition with Vietnamese Two South Korea trade groups, the Korea Inter- imports, textile producers don’t have the standing to national Trade Association and the Korean Apparel WASHINGTON — As Liz Claiborne Inc. pulled its sourc- bring antidumping cases — a problem the proposed Industry Association, also voiced their concerns about ing out of Vietnam, U.S. textile lobbyists, importers and program of monitoring and self-initiation would help the proposed program, since their members have invest- the Vietnamese government offered vastly different rec- them resolve. ments in the Vietnamese apparel industry. ommendations to the Bush administration last week on Importers have seized on this dynamic and said the The two trade groups pushed for, among other things, how to proceed with plans to monitor apparel imports monitoring program should require the support of U.S. “procedural safeguards” so interested parties have no- from the country and possibly self-initiate antidumping apparel manufacturers, a suggestion resisted in the tice of how the program will work and will have time to trade cases. comments submitted by Cass Johnson, president of the offer their input. “We have advised our Viet nam vendors that we will National Council of Textile Organizations. “The proposal that the [Commerce Department’s] not continue to source product from Vietnam,” said “NCTO supports outreach to interested parties, but Import Administration self-initiate investigations es- Francis Kelly, Claiborne’s vice president of international categorically opposes any preconditions of approval or sentially places the U.S. government in the position of trade compliance and government affairs, in the compa- support by U.S. apparel producers,” said Johnson. “Such plaintiff, judge and jury in any proceeding that is ini- ny’s comments. a requirement would turn the monitoring or investigatory tiated,” the South Korean trade groups said in their “Many of these vendors have manufacturing facilities process into a bullying exercise where importing and re- comments. “Procedural safeguards, including…trans- in other Asian countries,” said Kelly. “Products reallo- tailing interests could use their dominant market power parency, are absolutely essential to avoid the program cated from Vietnam will not be sourced from the United to force small apparel producers in the United States to becoming nothing more than a process of politicizing States or from the Western Hemisphere. Decades of quotas oppose petitions.” the decision-making process.” have not prevented the decline of the U.S. apparel industry. Actions such as monitoring, the threat of antidumping investigations or imposition of antidumping duties will not help bring manufacturing back to the U.S.” Textile fi rms are looking for a broad monitoring program that has a better chance of restricting Vietnamese competition while importers begrudgingly said that, if there must be a program, it must be narrowly defi ned. The Vietnamese Ministry of Trade, taking different approach- es in two separate comments, said it was willing to work with the Bush administration to es- tablish a monitoring system, but also described such a program as “overt discrimination” and in vio- lation of global trading rules. “The intention of establishing such [a] monitoring program has led to considerable uncertainty for not only Vietnamese textile and apparel manufacturers and exporters, but also the U.S. im- porters,” said the Ministry of Trade in its comments on the program to the U.S. Commerce Department. Antidumping cases could cool imports from Vietnam by increasing costs through higher duties, meant to combat compe- tition from unfairly priced im- ports. For the 12 months ending Oct. 31, Vietnam shipped 1.1 bil- lion square meter equivalents of apparel and textiles to the U.S., valued at $3.4 billion. U.S. textile groups main- tain that Vietnam’s nonmarket economy gives producers in that country an unfair advantage, with dire consequences. “Vietnam is currently sub- sidizing its textile and apparel sector through preferential in- terest rates, wage controls, rent holidays, export subsidies, pref- erential tax rates and direct in- from the Vietnamese government,” said Daniel LaPre, director of congressional relations of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition. The group suggested that, in addition to the types of apparel from Vietnam and China that are currently restrained by quo- tas, any product should be mon- itored where Vietnam is one of the top 10 suppliers to the U.S. or where it has more than a 1 percent share of the U.S. market of a particular product. U.S. textile fi rms maintain they are hurt by Vietnamese apparel imports because the domestic industry produces materials that are shipped to nearby countries, such as those in Central America, and sent back to the U.S. as finished goods. Since they don’t make a 6 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 All Dressed Up Welcome to spring 2007, the season of the dress.

DRESSES HAVE BEEN GAINING MOMENTUM FOR SEVERAL SEASONS. Now that spring merch is about to hit the racks, retailers expect the category to soar, and their high hopes have signifi cant foundation. Many women started embracing dresses as something more than a novelty only last season, so their lust for the silhouettes is far from satiated. They love the of slipping into a frock and the fact that they can do so while working other trends of the season, such as futurism, romance or metallics. Scores of designers have expanded their offerings to include a wealth of day looks that should be adaptable to even the most staid work environments. WWD surveyed the fashion directors of major stores to learn what dresses they’ll be pushing and pulling for as spring blossoms on the selling fl oor. “Almost every collection was, maybe, 65 percent dresses,” says Nordstrom’s vice president of women’s designer apparel Jennifer Wheeler. “It’s really become the new for spring-summer,” agrees Roopal Patel, Bergdorf Goodman’s fashion director. “Whether it’s about volume, patch pockets, topstitch or the chiffon overlay and trompe l’oeil effects that we saw at Chanel, every woman has a choice to her body.” Dresses have always been in the mix, but not at this level of ubiquity. Ken Downing, Neiman Marcus’ senior vice president and fashion director, points out that until very recently, sportswear and Yves Saint separates had long dominated collections. “The idea of a dress Laurent’s really felt new to our customer last season,” says Downing, who embroidered names Oscar de la Renta’s and Stella McCartney’s dresses, paired silk organza with a cropped jacket and fl at , as standouts of the season. dress, “She likes things that are very pretty and put together. So when we $3,650, at started bringing dresses into the store, she was excited.” Barneys Likewise at Macy’s, which predicts that Anna Sui, Twinkle by New York. Wenlan and Betsey Johnson dresses will be big for spring. “It’s about the pleasure of being a woman,” says Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director of Macy’s East. She notes that, while Macy’s has done well with fall dresses across the bridge, better and contemporary categories, different silhouettes suit the various markets. For example, Empire and smock styles do well with the contemporary customer, while bridge and better customers seek sheath and shift dresses. Calvin Klein and Vera Wang both recently launched better and contemporary dress collections with their white and lavender labels, respectively. In November, Gap sold out of Roland Mouret’s capsule collection of dresses in just a few days. “I think the reason it keeps gaining momentum is the ease factor,” says Saks Fifth Avenue vice president and women’s fashion director, Michael Fink, who predicts chic day dresses from Valentino and Oscar de la Renta will be his store’s number-one spring item. “It’s one-shot dressing that just hasn’t been in the everyday woman’s daytime . And we have to remember, we’re dressing people for work, for the most part.” Nordstrom’s Wheeler agrees that’s the distinguishing factor in this season’s crop, acknowledging that last spring’s offerings were decidedly dressier. “They were beautiful, and it got people’s eyes thinking about it, but the dresses were much more occasion-oriented,” she says. “Personally, when I was looking at the dresses, I was like, I love this; probably couldn’t wear it to work.” But offi ce-appropriate attire exists on an ever-changing spectrum, and conventional lines continue to blur. “There aren’t that many rules as to how and where you can wear a dress,” says Patel, who predicts that Bergdorf customers will incorporate metallics and shine, typically associated with more formal attire, into their daytime wardrobe. “It’s no longer for evening — you can sparkle during the day.” Henri Bendel vice president and fashion director Ann Watson, whose buy included pieces from Alexia Admor, adampluseve and Jovovich-Hawk, sees her customer as building a wardrobe of dresses. “It’s almost like an accessory,” she notes. “A girl can quickly change her look for the season by layering it over or a racer-back tank. It can take you from spring to fall quite easily.” And while there’s much to be said for the femininity and ease factors, Julie Gilhart, fashion director at Barneys New York, where customers will see dresses styled as tunics over skinny jeans and leggings, boils the phenomenon down to fashion’s core: design. “The truth is,” she says, “designers are giving us so many great dresses.” — Carolyn Angel and Jessica Iredale

Tory Burch’s sequined polyester and rayon tunic dress, $750, at Bergdorf Goodman. WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 7 WWD.COM N ANGEL

Fendi’s leather dress, $3,440, at Neiman Marcus. HYPRIANO.COM AND KATY YUNG; MAKEUP BY MICHELLE YURAS AND MICHELLE COURSEY, BOTH AT ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; STYLED BY CAROLY STYLED BY ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; BOTH AT AND MICHELLE COURSEY, MICHELLE YURAS YUNG; MAKEUP BY AND KATY HYPRIANO.COM Alexia Admor’s polyester lace and silk trapeze dress, $110, at Henri Bendel. Cotton and cashmere , $202, and silk and cotton dress, $340, both from Twinkle by Wenlan at Macy’s.

Cotton trapeze dress, $587, from 3.1 Phillip Lim at Nordstrom. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE AND TALAYA CENTENO; MODELS: INGA/ELITE AND KARLA DEVINE/NEXT; HAIR BY MICHELLE YURAS AT ARTISTSBYTIMOT AT MICHELLE YURAS HAIR BY CENTENO; MODELS: INGA/ELITE AND KARLA DEVINE/NEXT; GEORGE CHINSEE AND TALAYA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 WWD.COM Frilly Lily

NEW YORK — Just 21 years old, Lily Allen is already an interesting study in contrasts. The British singer looks and sounds like an angel, a dewy-eyed ingenue with a lilting soprano voice and a penchant for frothy party dresses. Pay closer attention, though, to the lyrics on her debut album, “Alright, Still,” to be released here in January, and you soon realize the girl has some serious demons to exorcise, including philandering ex-boyfriends, an estranged parent and a pot-smoking ne’er-do-well brother. Masking her scathing musical musings are peppy melodies that swing from Doris Day-like tunes and breezy reggae-tinged numbers to speak-easy raps. It’s a mix that has turned her songs into chart-toppers in Europe. Allen is also a bit of an Internet phenomenon, thanks to MySpace.com, where she started posting her songs in late 2005. Fast-forward a year, and all that blogging has helped her win a contract with Capitol Records and a huge global fan base. At press time, she boasted 96,975 “friends” on the site, meaning that those fans have linked their home pages to her site. (Madonna has 67,193.) Allen used to respond frequently to her devotees on the site, but these days, because of her schedule demands, she only posts bulletins. Still, that hasn’t stopped her fans from chatting daily about her latest show, her love life and, often, her sense of style. For months, Allen’s cheeky pairing of pouffed-out prom dresses and distressed has been chronicled almost weekly in the fashion pages of London’s myriad tabloids. And with spring’s promise of being another frock- heavy season, she’ll continue to be right on trend. “That was the fi rst touch of spring that I’ve actually seen,” Allen said of the looks she wore for the shoot with WWD. “It was great to see all of the dresses I love featuring so prominently.” She says she’s a major shopper, even if most of her spending now takes place in airport boutiques. “I’m just big into retail, generally,” she admitted. “It’s pretty shallow of me, but ever since I was younger, when I’d get my pocket money, I’d go shopping. I’ve always loved buying the new stuff that no one else has yet.” And she’s always had fun turning the debutante look on its head. “I’d go to the soccer and wear dresses with really high heels,” she said. “Then when I’d go out and all my friends were in dresses and heels, I’d wear a dress with trainers.” Allen has a mild fetish for collecting sneakers, especially Nike Airmax 90s and Nike Air Jordan IVs with white bottoms. In the brief intermission between press appearances on a recent trip to Los Angeles, she made time to buy fi ve pairs, adding to the 150 or so she already keeps at home in London. That’s not to say she doesn’t MELISSA MAGSAYSAY STYLED BY JANEL MOLTON; ASSISTANT: INE; FASHION appreciate a 5-inch Christian Louboutin heel, though. “They’re really good for dancing in just because they make you hold your body in a completely different way,” she said. Allen often performs in heels, too. They go perfectly with her on- stage getups — which mirror her offstage looks — of Fifties-style frocks with many layers of crinolines or ruffl es. She veers toward the sweeter side of dressing up and favors Marc by Marc Jacobs and Prada. But, “Chanel is probably my favorite label in the world,” she noted. In fact, the songstress sat front-row at the house’s spring show in October. “I’ve always known about Chanel, but I always thought of it as an old ladies’ label,” she said. “Then they invited me to the show in Paris, and it was amazing. Then I went to Madame Chanel’s apartment, which had been untouched since she died. And just looking around and seeing where all of her inspiration came from — the quilting, the camellias — I just think it’s really interesting to have a label that has so much history.” She won’t divulge any details, but Allen soon may guest design for a store in England. She has toyed with starting her own label, but she’s in no rush to go solo right now. “It’s something that I’ve always dreamed of doing, but I’d have to have a really, really strong name to do something like that, and I don’t yet,” she says. Still, the call of fashion might be compelling enough someday. “If I didn’t work in music, I’d work in fashion in some way. But fi rst and foremost, designers are the most important part of this industry,” she said. “I really love the creative process. I don’t want to be going to fashion parties and hanging out with models. I don’t care for that.” — Nandini D’Souza PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEFF BENDER AT THE HOLLYWOOD ROOSEVELT HOTEL, LOS ANGELES; HAIR BY HIKARI/CELESTINE; MAKEUP BY ANNIE ING/CELEST HIKARI/CELESTINE; MAKEUP BY ANGELES; HAIR BY HOTEL, LOS ROOSEVELT THE HOLLYWOOD JEFF BENDER AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED

Lily Allen in Oscar de la Renta’s silk taffeta dress. Chanel Fine Jewelry ring, bracelet and ; Lee Angel , worn as a ; Christian Louboutin shoes. WWD Section II: restaurants. and hotels fashionable in and NYC, around Distribution: Bonus Advertise to drive retailers to your booth and pre-sell your line. show. important a comprehensive look at the trends, designs and key players retailers takes issue Preview can expect Coterie to find guide, WWD’s at this ultimate pre-show designer. to The better from priced accessories and apparel ready-to-wear exhibits show Fashion Coterie avant-garde, the to From classic WWD tl trsHere Starts Style February 7 On-site at Coterie and New York Fashion Week: inside the tents, at key shows Coterie Preview ™ Close: 323-951-1803 representative. sales your or WWD 212-630-4587, Deborah Levy, senior account manager, West Coast, at Dale Reich, fashion director, contact advertising, information on For more at January 22 January Crème de la Crème la de Crème SPECIAL ISSUE SPECIAL

PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO 10 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007

Textile & Trade Report Congress to Tackle Industry Issues

Continued from page one rights overseas while preserving U.S. jobs. China’s exporting dominance is expecetd The key issues the new Congress is to be the subject of legislation early in the expected to tackle in the next session, Congressional calendar. which begins Thursday, include: ● The growing trade defi cit with China and its alleged currency manipulation. Apparel and textile imports contributed to the broader trade defi cit in goods with China in October, which widened by 6.1 percent to $24.4 billion compared with the preceding month. Observers expect the new Congress to propose a much tougher stance toward the Asian giant. ● The future of free trade agreements and of the president’s Trade Promotion Authority. ● How to jump-start global trade talks, which have stalled. ● Stricter rules to protect workers’ rights, both in the U.S. and overseas. Overall, the consensus on both sides of the debate is that a new skepticism toward trade has taken hold in both parties in Congress. Organized labor’s agenda also is expected to gain prominence and experts said legislative action on new laws govern- ing workers and unions is possible. House Speaker-elect Nancy Pelosi (D., Calif.) already has laid out her broad agen- da for the fi rst 100 hours of the session — and her initial salvo set off alarm bells within the industry. Pelosi has promised that the House will pass legislation rais- ing the federal minimum wage, requiring 100 percent screening of all cargo contain- ers at foreign ports, rolling back subsidies to big oil and reforming health care and Social Security. The screening proposal raised an immediate outcry from apparel importers, who said the plan could cause and Colombia FTAs with an ex- major disruption to shipments. tension of TPA. It is more diffi cult to gauge the agenda On the labor front, two in the Senate, where Democratic lead- Democrats chairing key labor ers have been more circumspect about policy committees, Sen. Edward their legislative priorities in the 110th Kennedy (D., Mass.) and Rep. Congress. George Miller (D., Calif.), will “It will be a big year for trade re- be closely watched by the in- gardless of other issues, such as the dustry and organized labor. war in Iraq,” said Tim Kane, director Kennedy and Miller al- of the Center for International Trade & ready have said they will push Economics at the Heritage Foundation, a for passage of a bill they in- conservative think tank. troduced that would instruct However, the chances of Congress “ac- the National Labor Relations tually erecting new trade barriers is un- Board to develop a procedure likely,” he said, adding, “A slowdown in under which a union can be REUTERS/CHINA DAILY/LANDOV SHANGHAI BY OOMBERG NEWS/LANDOV; trade deals is more likely, since that was recognized if a majority of already happening with Republicans who employees sign authorization were getting nervous about trade.” cards choosing the union as Kane said there are confl icting forces Rep. Sander Levin (D., Mich.) will Sen. Max Baucus (D., Mont.) House Speaker-elect Nancy Pelosi their bargaining represen- on international commerce within the chair the House Ways & Means will chair the Senate Finance of California has set an aggressive tative — known as a “card Democratic caucus in the House and trade subcommittee. Committee. agenda. check” system. The bill also Senate, which makes it diffi cult to pre- would strengthen remedies dict which voices will prevail. [of Congress] are chomping at the bit… for “new tools” to address China’s curren- for employer coercion when employees He said experts will be closely watch- to do a China bill. It’s just a question of cy policies, other than the Department of try to organize by imposing civil fi nes up ing newly elected Democrats who are whether cooler heads can prevail. I think the Treasury’s semiannual report that to $20,000 per violation. coming into offi ce on a wave of antitrade they will be under a lot more pressure to has passed on labeling China a currency “The bill would go some distance to- sentiment and how leaders balance their whack China. We are keeping a wary eye manipulator. ward leveling the playing fi eld in terms voices with more pro-trade constituents, on the whole situation.” The president’s TPA, which requires of freedom of association,” said Tom such as the Congressional Black Caucus, Auggie Tantillo, executive director Congress to vote up or down on trade Snyder, national political director for which has been supportive of trade ben- of the American Manufacturing Trade agreements without the ability to amend UNITE HERE. efi ts for sub-Saharan Africa. Action Coalition, said he believes there them, expires at the end of June and also “In actual practice, workers are not able Although Pelosi has not unveiled a is already momentum on China, though will generate a heated debate. The pros- to associate in their place of employment. trade agenda to date, many experts ex- “how the Democrats choose to deal with pects of Congress renewing the authority, If they try to form a union, they are fi red, pect several issues to gain traction, in- this issue is up in the air.” without any substantive changes to it — demoted or harassed,” alleged Snyder. cluding the widening defi cit with China “First of all, you’ve got people like such as addressing stronger enforcement Snyder also expects Congress to pass and bills targeting its currency manipu- [Sens.] Sherrod Brown [D., Ohio] and Jim mechanism for labor standards — are comprehensive immigration reform legis- lation and subsidies; the president’s Webb [D., Va.], who are coming into pow- slim, according to experts. lation providing a guest worker program expiring trade promotion authority; the erful positions in the Senate and who are The global round of trade talks, which for millions of illegal immigrants and a global round of trade talks, and a push to vowing to be more aggressive on these is- has faltered for some time now, will be path to citizenship. strengthen labor and environmental laws sues, and China is at the front of the line affected if TPA is not renewed. The union offi cial, without wanting in free trade agreements, which could af- for them,” Tantillo said. “It’s hard to say what the prospects for to sound “Pollyannaish,” contended the fect the pending Peru and Colombia free Signaling the possible fight ahead, trade promotion authority are, but it will overall environment on Capitol Hill will trade deals. For the 12 months ended Oct. Rep. Sander Levin (D., Mich.), who will be a long shot,” said Cass Johnson, presi- be “more hospitable to union issues and 31, Peru shipped 103.8 million square chair the House Ways & Means trade dent of the National Council of Textile middle-class family issues.” meter equivalents of apparel and textiles subcommittee, has already said he plans Organization. “The election made it more “That does not mean these things will to the U.S., valued at $842.5 million, and to submit an unfair trade practices case diffi cult for the administration to get an sail through very simply or without lots of Colombia’s imports tallied 142.7 million against China’s currency manipulation agreement on TPA through, rather than struggle and negotiation,” he said. “But SME, worth $560.3 million. and reintroduce legislation to apply less diffi cult. It has given the administra- underneath, the anxiety about free trade “We are defi nitely going to see a China countervailing duties to non-market tion less maneuvering room.” agreements is the anxiety being felt by the trade bill this year and it’s going to be economies. Gary Hufbauer, senior fellow at middle class and working class, so I think bad,” predicted Erik Autor, vice president In addition, Sen. Max Baucus, incom- Peterson’s Institute for International any issues that can raise their standard and international trade counsel at the ing chairman of the Senate Finance Economics, said he wouldn’t be surprised of living…will fi nd a good hearing among

National Retail Federation. “Members Committee, has indicated he is looking to see the White House package the Peru those who campaigned for fair trade.” CHRIS KLEPONIS/BL BY BAUCUS NEWS/LANDOV; DENNIS BRACK/BLOOMBERG LEVIN BY NEWS/LANDOV; POWERS/BLOOMBERG CAROL T. PHOTO BY PELOSI WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 11 WWD.COM China Facing Pressure Over Trade Policy

By John Zarocostas ing might, as well as the agricultural gridlock, is what has been holding back other major emerging economies such as Brazil and India from being more forthcoming GENEVA — Major Western trading powers, led by the U.S. and the European Union, in the Non-Agricultural Market Access segment of the Doha talks, which aims to are expected to intensify pressure on China this year to further open its lucrative lower industrial tariffs. market as part of the troubled Doha global trade talks, senior trade diplomats and “I think that is not correct,” said a senior Chinese offi cial, who asked not to be experts said. identifi ed, and noted that 60 percent of the country’s trade consists of imported With its foreign reserves piling up and now in excess of $1 trillion, China is also materials that are processed and exported as fi nished goods. likely to come under sustained pressure to expedite efforts toward a more fl exible policy for its currency, the yuan, and to take effective steps to combat widespread abuse of intellectual property rights and turn off the fl ow of subsidies to state- owned enterprises. China, a big elephant in the room, has been Five years after China joined the World Trade Organization, the perception in trade circles is that the honeymoon is over and that the country, as the world’s very“ quiet [in Doha], but it has [the] most to gain. third-largest trading power, needs to play a more active role in shoring up the system. They have to play a more active role in these China’s low posture “is affecting the talks,” said a WTO ambassador from a G8 power who spoke on the condition of anonymity. A similar sentiment was expressed negotiations. They are the big benefi ciaries. by a number of top Asian WTO envoys, who also requested anonymity. ” The global trade talks, launched in Doha, Qatar, in November 2001, were sus- — Christopher Wenk, National Association of Manufacturers pended in late July after major rich and emerging trading powers — the U.S., EU, Japan, Australia, Brazil and India — could not narrow their differences on how to proceed to lower subsidies and tariffs in agricultural trade. “China, a big elephant in the room, has been very quiet [in Doha], but it has However, rich countries are also under pressure from industry groups to secure [the] most to gain,” said Christopher Wenk, director of international trade policy at further deep reductions from China in the NAMA talks on top of the big conces- the U.S.-based National Association of Manufacturers. “They have to play a more sions Beijing made to secure WTO membership in 2001. In the talks, China, given active role in these negotiations. They are the big benefi ciaries.” its status as a recent member, has said it expects to make smaller cuts in tariffs Senior Chinese offi cials consider as unfair the “free-rider” charges and counter than other members in light of the big concessions it made in the entry talks. that they are fi rm supporters of the multilateral system and are making “tremen- Pascal Lamy, WTO director general, said that, in the case of China, it’s “true dous efforts.” A few WTO envoys have even gone so far as to put some of the blame their entry ticket was huge, there was no doubt about that.” However, the WTO for the collapse of the talks in July on the lack of leadership by China. chief added that “nobody said, and neither did the Chinese, that they would have Anthony Hill, a Geneva-based trade consultant, said China’s WTO membership this round for free.” has changed the dynamics of the agency, which oversees most global trade in goods On China’s newly acceded status, Lamy noted it is a tradition in WTO negotia- and services. tions “that a newly acceded member has a rebate…so the question is not whether Hill, formerly Jamaica’s WTO ambassador, said China wants a successful out- they will be entitled to a rebate. The question is the size of the rebate and that come in the Doha talks, but noted that its low-key role in them so far may stem remains under discussion.” from a desire by Beijing “not to push its power or a political desire not to be Senior Western diplomatic sources close to the Bush administration said China up front.” will have to cut its industrial tariffs. But with average industrial tariffs of around According to some senior WTO diplomats, fear of China’s growing manufactur- 9 percent, Chinese offi cials counter they do not have much room to maneuver. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report MaxAzria: An Upgrade in Palm Beach

By Rebecca Kleinman Interior view of the new MaxAzria PALM BEACH, Fla. — Hoping to resonate better with boutique on Worth Avenue. Palm Beach shoppers, the two-year-old BCBG Max Azria boutique has been refashioned as MaxAzria, the compa- ny’s designer division. Sandwiched between Valentino and Kaufmann de Suisse on Worth Avenue, the 2,000-square-foot loca- tion was too tony to downplay or let go, according to MaxAzria creative director Lubov Azria, who staged a benefi t for the area’s Norton Museum of Art for its grand opening in December. “The young socialite set is so excited to have a store that’s not as traditional or classic as the typical Palm Beach choices,” she said of attendees, including co- hosts Ariana Boardman, Natalie Matthews and Kate Johnson. “The response to our resort collection trunk show that night was amazing, especially from the Latin crowd, which is totally new for us.” Among its 32 pieces inspired by Tulum, Mexico’s care- free lifestyle of loose, drapy silhouettes and , bestsellers were an oversized cardigan in beige, chunky tape yarn retailing for $590; an A-line, knee-length cor- set dress in black or beige cotton silk bengaline for $900, and elastic- belts with hook closures and oversized wooden buttons for $350. The company manufactures

only 50 items per style, a factor Azria said will defi nitely CLARK ROBERT PHOTO BY please the area’s clientele. “They never want to see someone in the same gar- ing water emphasizes the collection’s socially and envi- saic tiles. Notebooks and books about art, architecture ment at all their social events,” she said. ronmentally conscious direction. and history are part of the selection. Compared with the 800-square-foot store in New York’s “The boutique’s design concept is that of an art stu- Azria said there are no plans to open more MaxAzria SoHo neighborhood and larger spaces in Los Angeles and dio where women come to be fulfi lled beyond shop- stores beyond the current four. Newport Beach, Calif., Palm Beach’s size falls in the mid- ping,” she said of elements like distressed wood fl oors, “We treat this division as a very special but small dle. Azria said its Spartan decor with organic touches like antique Indonesian display tables and vintage rolling portion of the business,” she said. “The budget is tightly a fl oor-to-ceiling tree trunk and crystal surfaces mimick- racks, and walls decorated with kimonos, art and mo- controlled, and everything is simple.” Anne Barge Atelier Takes Bridal Store to the Bank Fashion Scoop HIGH BALL: It was all about big By Georgia Lee Her first 26-piece Badgley Mischka to $6,000, and La Fleur, a more moderate furs and big money on Thursday collection for spring bowed Oct. 15 at the line, is priced at $1,800 to $3,500. at the St. Regis Resort, Aspen, ATLANTA — Anne Barge is thinking bigger. Essex House in New York. Her own line The store will also include Badgley where approximately 600 of The bridal designer will open a new sells to 101 accounts worldwide. Misch ka’s complete bridal line: the current Aspen’s fi nest gathered après- 5,000-square-foot retail space, Anne Barge Barge is no stranger to retail. She owned spring group and a 12-piece fall collection ski for the fourth annual Dennis Atelier, on Jan. 15 to showcase her own col- her own boutique, Anne Barge for Brides, to be launched in April. Barge said Badgley Basso Freestyle fashion show and lection as well as the bridal line she now from 1981 to 1994, then managed leased brid- Mischka’s gowns, which range from $4,000 auction, a benefi t for the Aspen designs for Badgley Mischka Bridal. al space in Saks Fifth Avenue after Kleinfeld to $13,000 retail, are sexy, more inspired by Art Museum that this year raised The store will be in a former Wa chovia Bridal bought her business. For two years “Hollywood, red-carpet glamour,” than the more than $500,000. While bank building that is being reinvented as 79 beginning in 1996, she oversaw Virgin Bride, Anne Barge line, which is more oriented to guests such as Serena Boardman, West Paces Ferry. The three-story space, in designing a private label line and running a “classic, traditional bride.” Jamie Tisch and Tanya Winfi eld the heart of Buckhead, an affl uent district a store in London, at the request of British The foyer is visible from the huge glass sipped Champagne among 10 miles north of downtown, will include mogul Richard Branson. wall that frames the store. Inside, 9-foot friends, Domenico De Sole made other high-end retail that will be unveiled For the fi rst Virgin Bride fashion show, white Corinthian columns add a stately ele- the event a family affair, bringing later this year, said George S. Morgan, “Richard shaved his legs, wore full make- gance and a 40-foot mirrored runway allows along his wife, Eleanor, and their chief executive offi cer of Morgan Capital & up and dressed in a minidress bridal , brides-to-be to simulate their walk down the daughters, Laura and Rickie. Development Co., the project’s developers. drawing all the media attention we could aisle. Dresses are visible on the sales fl oor, During the live auction, De Barge outgrew the showroom in Atlanta’s want,” said Barge. displayed in cases, with inventory stored in Sole waved his paddle numerous Four Seasons Hotel, where she has shown The store will carry the complete Anne the old bank vault, which was kept intact. times for a photo shoot with Patrick her wholesale line for the past fi ve years. Barge Collection, including The Black Along with Anne Barge and Badgley Demarchelier. But ever budget- Adding to the squeeze for space, Barge began Label Collection, with lavish hand-beaded Mischka gowns, the store will carry shoes by minded, he held his ground at designing bridal gowns for the Badgley and embroidered gowns in Italian silk and Badgley Mischka and Filipa Scott, jewelry $48,000 and eventually lost out to Mischka label after announcing a partner- French lace, priced from $5,000 to $15,000. by Debra Moreland and Carole Tanenbaum the winning bid of $49,000. “I can ship last summer as the licensee for the The Couture Collection, with metallic em- and an assortment of and fl ower-girl get that for free from Demarchelier label, now owned by Iconix Brand Group. broidery and beading, ranges from $3,000 dresses by Joan Calabrese. myself, so I thought I was generous enough with my bids,” laughed De Sole, who afterward headed off to Obituary a private dinner at a friend’s home with his wife. His daughters, meanwhile, had more expensive things in mind. Socialite Isabel Eberstadt Dies at 73 “Since we weren’t invited, we decided to take dad’s credit card NEW YORK — Journalist, author geline Bruce, Gloria Vanderbilt, Eberstadt “one of the silent lead- ment, having cleared out every and go out to Matsuhisa,” said his and socialite Isabel Eberstadt Nancy Kissinger and Annette ers of New York society,” having stitch of furniture beforehand to youngest daughter, Rickie, who died Dec. 30 in her home here Reed, now Annette de la Renta. attended school with, among make room for all the guests. recently landed her fi rst job in after battling a long illness. She It was an era when stylish others, Jacqueline Bouvier, de la Fernanda, in a 1997 interview fashion at Vanity Fair. was 73. women bought, rather than bor- Renta and Vanderbilt. with Salon.com, recalled how her Of the auction’s nine items, The daughter of poet Ogden rowed, their gowns for galas and But her circle extended be- mother instilled in her and her the highest bid came from part- Nash and his wife Frances events and styled themselves. It yond the social world. Eberstadt brother a rebellious and a reclu- time Aspen resident Wendy Block, Leon ard, Eberstadt was born in was a time when, as Eberstadt was one of ’s earliest sive streak. “My mother, who was who dropped $110,000 on Dennis Baltimore on Sept. 30, 1933. She is told Marilyn Bender in Bender’s fans and champions among high my big formative influence, is Basso’s fl oor-length Russian survived by her husband, fashion 1967 book, “The Beautiful society, her husband having pho- quite antisocial, and she’s quite sable and broadtail . “We photographer and psychotherapist People,” “looking pretty was not tographed the artist twice for Life subversive herself,” recalled made it just for this show,” said Frederick Eberstadt; their two as important as creating a mood.” magazine. She even appeared Fernanda Eberstadt. “I notice it Basso, who, after the auction, children, Nicholas and Fernanda, Nonetheless, she was known in two of Warhol’s fi lms in the more now that I have a daugh- sent out 47 looks from his winter an author, and grandchildren as a trendsetter among the Sixties, playing herself. She also ter myself. [My mother] hated collection. Frederick William, Katherine, fashion crowd, sporting feath- wrote two novels, 25 years apart. my teachers at school. She hated So has the De Sole family Isabel II and Alexandra, as well ered headdresses and wearing “She was a leader in the days school, she hated authority. She made any Basso purchases of as Maud and Theodore Bruton. Courrèges long before many of when everybody knew everybody very sneakily taught us to have their own? “Not yet, but after Eberstadt was part of the New her contemporaries. else in New York,” said Fairchild, no respect. It didn’t matter at all tonight we will,” De Sole vowed. York social world of the Seventies John B. Fairchild, former who recalled how Eberstadt and what anybody else thought — the Basso’s response? “That’s all the and Eighties, mingling with the chairman and editorial director her husband once entertained broad idea being that you didn’t confi rmation I need.” likes of Jayne Wrightsman, Evan- of Fairchild Publications, called Jacqueline Onassis at their apart- need outside approval.” WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 13 Weekly Stocks WWD.COM 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE Financial 79.42 49.98 Abercrombie & Fitch 15.9 54553 69.63 -1.53 27.13 19.51 Acadia 42.9 6339 25.02 0.68 33.01 21.07 Aéropostale 18.5 36626 30.87 0.06 22.25 17.01 Alberto Culver 9.5 41220 21.45 -0.18 3.19 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech 23.2 2141 2.80 0.10 33.01 14.83 American Eagle Outfitters 20.2 110807 31.21 0.60 n investigation by Immigrations and Customs America Inc., and Chloé SA a default judgment 45.15 32.00 Ann Taylor 16.0 42305 32.84 -0.08 10.45 6.17 Ashworth 34.9 1187 7.26 0.11 AEnforcement, an investigative arm of the and permanent injunction against one of sev- 34.25 26.16 Avon 31.4 39043 33.04 -0.45 23.03 9.02 Bakers 30.9 1755 9.04 -1.11 Department of Homeland Security, broke up a eral defendants in a trademark infringement 26.86 13.05 Bebe 22.7 30548 19.79 -0.63 40.00 22.54 Benetton 50.5 66 38.18 0.08 smuggling ring shipping counterfeit apparel into lawsuit fi led earlier this year. The judgment, 16.50 7.01 Big Dog 90.7 468 16.40 0.70 7.85 5.70 Birks & Mayors 8.7 137 7.19 0.14 the United States, according to a statement Dec. against Mohammad Alexander Zarafshan, pro- 33.07 25.18 BJs 18.7 19736 31.11 -0.66 46.44 23.73 Blair 14.7 454 32.75 0.15 13. Four individuals in New York, New hibits the defendant from using or infringing on 6.80 1.48 Blue 11.5 4000 1.50 -0.09 1.60 0.68 Bluefly - 7779 1.28 0.04 and Texas were arrested for allegedly trafficking Chloé trademarks. The original complaint was 39.36 18.88 Bon-Ton - 7836 34.65 -0.52 51.00 27.77 Brown 20.8 6328 47.74 -0.12 counterfeit goods. The apparel brands allegedly fi led against a list of defendants for allegedly 54.98 31.82 Buckle 18.6 2814 50.85 -0.05 26.32 15.00 Caché 34.5 7826 25.24 0.10 counterfeited included: Akademiks, Marithé & using counterfeit Chloé trademarks on hand- 35.24 21.08 Carter 19.0 17174 25.50 -0.21 François Girbaud, Nike, Baby Phat, Pepe, Enyce, bags. The bulk of the case is still pending. 15.10 5.92 Casual Male 26.4 13826 13.05 -0.30 26.70 19.35 Cato 14.4 4516 22.91 -0.32 Evisu, Rocawear, Lacoste, Route 66 and Sean Victoria’s Secret Stores, Victoria’s Secret Di- 44.30 35.80 CBL 38.3 13206 43.35 0.84 12.74 8.88 CCA 13.2 1208 11.54 0.04 John. The goods tracked in the investigation rect and Bath & Body Works fi led a request for 18.90 7.61 Charles & Colvard 24.1 5055 8.00 0.25 32.19 15.28 Charlotte Russe 18.7 12503 30.75 -0.20 conducted by ICE were manufactured overseas declaratory judgment against Aspen Licensing 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes 16.3 16111 13.53 -0.17 51.64 27.99 Chattem 23.0 4235 50.08 0.64 in China, Paki stan and International in Man- 45.12 33.65 Cherokee 20.6 1009 42.91 -0.76 49.40 17.26 Chico’s 19.6 96160 20.69 -0.85 other countries and hattan federal court 71.81 41.81 Children’s Place 24.7 11745 63.52 -1.51 31.25 17.57 Christopher & Banks 18.2 20238 18.66 -0.45 were smuggled by sea on Dec. 13. According 44.30 34.57 Cintas 19.3 24532 39.71 -0.12 57.85 26.78 Citi Trends 26.8 5161 39.64 -1.70 and air through the to court documents, 37.49 23.88 Claire’s Stores 18.9 25486 33.14 -0.11 Newark, N.J., seaport Victoria’s Secret asked 44.99 25.18 Coach 31.4 63684 42.96 -0.62 31.26 18.69 Coldwater Creek 41.3 50506 24.52 -0.46 and John F. Kennedy the court to declare 67.08 53.41 Colgate Palmolive 26.4 41871 65.24 0.65 62.55 42.85 Columbia Sportswear 17.1 8574 55.70 -0.74 Airport in New York. that its line of ski sea- 44.99 17.61 Conns 13.5 4738 23.27 0.21 57.94 46.00 Costco 22.0 81870 52.87 0.67 “The apparel in- son-themed merchan- 9.45 6.73 Cost U Less 11.0 340 8.05 0.16 50.25 20.32 Crocs 32.5 26676 43.20 1.09 dustry is important to our dise does not infringe on 6.75 4.24 Culp - 978 5.15 0.03 13.48 9.02 Cutter & Buck 14.6 491 10.77 0.30 economy and to those many Aspen Licensing’s “Aspen” 5.10 1.85 Cygne Designs - 1090 2.24 -0.43 32.46 21.34 Deb Shops 16.4 438 26.40 1.01 Americans whose liveli- trademark. Vic toria’s Se- 60.56 27.00 Deckers Outdoor 23.8 7646 59.95 1.44 12.00 6.61 Delia’s 58.8 8790 10.49 -0.03 depends on it. That cret released a line of 20.50 15.24 Delta Apparel 11.3 119 17.09 0.10 10.58 5.92 Delta Galil - 61 9.08 -0.02 industry is increasingly sweatshirts and 66.36 46.64 Developers Diversified 38.6 16966 62.95 1.06 threatened by counterfeit- that include the names of 36.47 23.94 Dillard’s 14.9 27605 34.97 -0.23 19.35 12.10 Dollar General 21.6 58113 16.06 0.14 ers who sell fake trade- well-known skiing loca- 28.09 16.91 Dress Barn 16.6 21408 23.33 -0.54 40.34 25.18 DSW 29.6 9416 38.57 -1.34 marked goods to sometimes tions, including Aspen. 42.06 20.44 Duckwall-Alco 24.1 72 39.00 2.13 16.00 6.88 Eddie Bauer - 9893 9.06 0.05 unwitting consumers,” Bath & Body Works incor- 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Arden 18.1 5609 19.05 -0.20 43.60 32.79 Estée Lauder 27.4 13784 40.82 -0.33 said Michael J. Garcia, the porated the theme and 20.63 9.74 Everlast Worldwide 15.0 655 17.00 0.64 30.91 21.57 Family Dollar 22.1 25404 29.33 -0.43 United States attorney for imagery of Aspen, Colo., 45.01 32.38 Federated Department Stores 20.8 169070 38.13 0.04 18.81 9.55 Finish Line 17.4 18394 14.28 -0.07 the Southern District of into its holiday personal 26.16 24.58 Forest City 32.2 31 25.77 0.40 23.84 15.89 Fossil 24.3 9067 22.58 0.18 New York, where the de- care products. According 16.40 11.30 Freds 17.8 8838 12.04 0.12 fendants were charged. to the complaint, Aspen 42.95 31.12 G&K 20.3 2480 38.89 0.45 19.98 9.80 Gaiam 91.5 8477 13.68 0.36 AnnTaylor Stores Corp., Licensing has threatened 21.39 15.91 Gap 18.7 119642 19.50 -0.45 56.14 41.92 General Growth 261.5 39544 52.23 1.01 Annco Inc. and AnnTaylor Victoria’s Secret and Bath 43.72 25.50 Genesco 13.6 5704 37.30 -1.00 22.50 7.91 G-III Apparel 26.0 7213 18.83 -2.19 Inc. on Dec. 20 won a con- & Body Works with litiga- 55.79 38.24 Gildan Activewear 26.4 3343 46.63 -0.43 29.10 23.08 Glimcher 103.4 4741 26.71 -0.09 sent judgment and perma- tion if they continue to sell 11.89 6.29 Gottschalks 62.6 790 11.48 0.64 65.98 33.95 Guess 28.0 25378 63.43 2.43 nent injunction in a law- products using the word 49.11 20.78 Gymboree 21.9 20656 38.16 0.59 152.00 69.11 Hallwood 6.6 27 122.50 12.03 suit fi led against Kleinfeld “Aspen.” The companies 24.80 11.76 Hampshire 10.7 346 16.57 0.56 24.77 17.75 Hanesbrands - 10047 23.62 0.27 Bridal Corp. over the use asked the court for a decla- 9.97 5.50 Hartmarx 18.1 4342 7.06 -0.27 25.29 15.80 Helen of Troy 15.4 3995 24.26 0.54 of the word “loft.” The ration of noninfringement. 15.64 9.43 Hot Topic 38.0 24366 13.34 0.09 initial lawsuit, filed in a Feld Entertainment, 7.50 0.95 House of Taylor Jewelry - 1673 2.80 0.39 38.66 23.54 IAC Interactive 38.4 66134 37.16 0.46 Manhattan federal court which does business as Ring- 20.39 9.51 Iconix 22.4 32985 19.39 0.69 1.41 0.37 Innovo - 6352 0.70 0.06 on Nov. 29, alleged that ling Bros. and Barnum & 21.77 15.39 Inter Parfums 24.5 1627 19.19 -0.81 43.56 24.00 J. Crew - 27465 38.55 0.85 Kleinfeld’s Bridesmaids’ Bailey Circus, and Se phora 82.49 54.18 J.C. Penney 16.3 65525 77.36 -2.21 11.80 7.15 Jaclyn 14.9 212 11.17 0.37 Loft store name infringed USA Inc. reached a settle- 36.10 27.30 Jones Apparel 20.9 14162 33.43 -0.07 AnnTaylor Stores Corp. was part of a lawsuit 48.12 22.14 Jos. A. Bank 14.2 13011 29.35 -0.08 on its own Ann Taylor Loft against Kleinfeld Bridal Group. ment on Dec. 11 in a trade- 34.84 23.20 Kellwood 36.7 9471 32.52 -0.14 28.72 21.75 Kenneth Cole 18.1 2462 23.99 0.05 trademark. According to mark lawsuit. The initial 68.58 56.59 Kimberly Clark 22.4 31120 67.95 0.19 47.13 32.02 Kimco Realty 30.2 30868 44.95 0.60 court documents, the parties reached an agree- complaint, fi led in the Southern District of New 75.54 42.78 Kohl’s 23.3 107628 68.43 -1.39 ment that prohibits Kleinfeld from using the York, alleged that Sephora infringed on Ringling 37.81 22.54 K-Swiss 14.1 4228 30.74 -0.44 13.98 9.70 LaCrosse 13.1 191 13.27 0.07 terms “loft” or “the loft.” The settlement does Bros.’ “The Greatest Show on Earth” slogan with 18.86 11.37 Lakeland Inds 13.9 508 13.59 -0.35 32.60 21.62 Limited Brands 15.5 96522 28.94 -0.78 allow Kleinfeld to continue to use the terms its holiday marketing campaign. According to 21.50 8.66 Liquidity Services 52.5 3641 17.21 0.49 44.50 33.40 Liz Claiborne 17.3 13311 43.46 -0.24 “Kleinfeld Bridesmaids’ Loft,” “Kleinfeld Bridal court documents the two parties reached a judg- 4.89 2.69 LJ Intl 18.5 4025 4.35 0.14 31.56 24.17 Luxottica 28.0 2420 30.67 0.06 Loft” and “Bridesmaids’ Loft” if the word “loft” is ment on consent that restrains Sephora from using 87.10 66.70 Macerich 134.0 12697 86.57 4.00 22.84 8.49 Maidenform 17.1 5066 18.12 0.13 the same size and color as the other words. “The Greatest Gift Show on Earth” in advertising, 41.75 28.76 Men’s Wearhouse 15.8 27224 38.26 0.96 26.31 15.20 Marcus 26.8 2247 25.58 -0.08 A Manhattan federal court judge on Dec. 14 promotion or marketing materials. 57.65 12.14 Mothers Work 23.6 3598 39.39 -1.64 28.40 17.91 Movado 18.6 25090 29.00 1.43 granted Chloé, a division of Richemont North — Liza Casabona 1.68 0.50 Movie Star - 3688 1.57 0.12 24.10 18.81 National Retail Properties 22.8 6481 22.95 0.42 28.93 22.80 New Plan Excel Realty 30.1 16826 27.48 0.43 22.63 9.41 New York & Co. 17.4 10066 13.08 -0.40 101.20 75.52 Nike 18.6 32309 99.03 -0.91 9.19 1.74 Nitches 55.8 4798 6.28 0.08 51.40 31.77 Nordstrom 20.1 64231 49.34 0.49 20.58 14.18 Oakley 29.9 4025 20.06 0.09 8.97 1.53 Oralabs 19.8 13533 5.14 0.94 6.00 3.25 Orange 21 - 254 4.93 0.13 Retail Shares Close 2006 on High Note 11.55 6.70 Orchids Paper 283.3 58 8.53 0.08 55.20 34.34 Oxford 17.2 4933 49.65 -0.40 25.30 13.12 Pacific Sunwear 18.9 42284 19.58 -0.08 By Vicki M. Young last day of 2006 up 9.4 percent from the fi rst day of 19.24 4.43 Parlux Fragrances 19.2 40206 5.57 0.22 23.45 17.00 Paxar 20.4 4732 23.06 0.11 trading in the year. 33.60 20.36 Payless Shoes 22.9 32405 32.82 0.68 42.74 18.50 Perry Ellis 20.0 2741 41.00 -0.78 NEW YORK — Wall Street ended the year on a Trading won’t resume until Wednesday. The 52.90 31.24 Phillips-Van Heusen 18.9 14696 50.17 -0.73 down note in trading Friday after rallying in stock markets are closed today as part of a na- 6.19 3.00 Phoenix Footwear 11.6 806 4.40 0.00 15.01 9.30 Playtex 81.3 6236 14.39 -0.15 the final week of 2006 to push the Dow Jones In- tional day of mourning honoring former president 83.15 45.65 Polo Ralph Lauren 22.2 15458 77.66 -1.27 20.64 7.55 PriceSmart 60.9 1807 17.91 -0.59 dustrial Average past the 12,500 mark. Gerald Ford, who passed away last week. Both 3.00 0.92 Quaker Fabric - 3688 1.18 0.11 16.08 11.60 Quiksilver 20.6 33073 15.75 0.54 It was a surprising year for the markets, which the Nasdaq Stock Market and the New York Stock 39.55 25.81 Ramco-Gershenson 70.1 2422 38.14 1.32 81.42 58.07 Regency Centers 43.9 6545 78.17 2.10 seesawed in 2006 to highs and lows as investors Exchange will close to honor the nation’s 38th 19.75 12.00 Retail Ventures - 7836 19.04 -0.41 3.95 0.76 Revlon - 60629 1.28 0.03 reacted to the start of a housing slump and tried president. 26.70 9.73 Rocky Brands 11.2 1173 16.12 -0.17 31.80 22.12 Ross Stores 19.2 34370 29.30 -0.35 to predict the direction of interest rates after a The Chicago Board Options Exchange also said 21.45 14.10 Saks 25.6 40264 17.82 -0.35 182.38 114.90 Sears 19.7 41467 167.93 0.19 two-year trend by the Federal Reserve of raising it would close Tuesday, as will the CBOE Futures 31.47 19.25 Shoe Carnival 19.4 5851 31.60 1.09 11.00 5.19 Shoe Pavilion 29.0 246 7.38 -0.11 them. Exchange. The Chicago Mercantile Exchange will 104.08 76.14 Simon Properties 58.7 29010 101.29 3.19 Retail stocks followed the broader market. The be open until noon Tuesday for foreign exchange, 33.58 14.80 Skechers 21.8 13162 33.31 0.92 6.16 3.68 Sport-Haley - 4179 4.85 0.75 S&P Retail Index shed 0.2 percent Friday, closing but will close the commodities and equity mar- 18.36 11.27 Stein Mart 16.0 11971 13.26 -0.50 4.00 2.83 Stephan 39.7 137 3.62 0.04 at 499.20. But for the year, the index closed the kets all day. 44.70 18.63 Steve Madden 17.0 8046 35.09 -0.15 16.21 11.90 Stride Rite 18.1 7350 15.08 -0.08 13.40 10.00 Superior Uniform 38.2 76 12.81 -0.09 21.24 14.20 Syms 37.4 509 19.91 0.26 1.38 0.33 Tag-It - 7385 1.03 -0.02 31.00 17.30 Talbots 24.7 26660 24.10 -0.50 WWDComposite Index 12.36 9.27 Tandy Brands - 112 11.72 0.18 Weekly % Changes Ending Dec. 29 8.32 5.75 Tandy Leather Factory 18.9 672 8.07 0.37 40.35 28.58 Tanger Factory Outlet 95.6 3969 39.08 0.83 60.34 44.70 Target 19.0 81505 57.05 -0.27 2.20 1.02 Tarrant Apparel - 2335 1.47 0.05 51.30 34.39 Taubman 42.8 9008 50.86 1.07 Gainers Decliners 13.73 8.08 Tefron 17.3 2024 10.50 -0.26 Composite 41.29 29.63 Tiffany & Co. 22.1 35302 39.24 -1.04 37.61 24.80 Timberland 17.7 9638 31.58 -0.24 994.58 Close Change Close Change 29.84 22.16 TJ Maxx 16.1 52832 28.52 -0.24 24.36 14.65 True Religion 15.5 9686 15.31 -0.37 44.53 25.75 Tween Brands 20.9 18631 39.93 -0.59 Oralabs 5.14 22.38 Cygne Designs 2.24 -16.10 54.00 25.85 Under Armour 76.4 10832 50.62 0.66 3.76 1.69 Unifi - 29108 2.45 0.28 Sport-Haley 4.85 18.29 Bakers 9.04 -10.94 41.63 28.65 Unifirst 17.4 882 38.41 0.16 20.78 12.59 United Retail 6.1 3071 14.02 0.02 29.89 13.65 Urban Outfitters 33.0 56653 23.03 -0.32 House of Taylor 2.80 16.18 G-III Apparel 18.83 -10.42 83.10 53.25 V.F. Corp. 16.5 14214 82.08 -0.36 2.79 41.40 18.24 Volcom 24.8 7682 29.57 0.72 Unifi 2.45 12.90 Blue 1.50 -5.66 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart 16.4 405276 46.18 0.64 28.22 15.75 Warnaco 23.5 7436 25.38 0.24 13.45 10.50 Wellco 13.2 30 11.20 0.06 Hallwood 122.50 10.89 Citi Trends 39.64 -4.11 47.94 36.77 Weingarten 26.3 10143 46.11 0.54 25.72 18.76 Weyco 14.2 355 24.85 1.79 4.13 2.00 Wilsons - 4078 2.04 -0.02 30.20 20.26 Wolverine 20.0 6004 28.52 0.23 31.72 21.01 Zale 27.7 19338 28.21 0.09 COMPILED BY DATA NETWORK, HUNTINGTON, N.Y., 631-549-1014. NOTE: INFORMATION AND DATA, THOUGH BELIEVED ACCURATE, IS NOT GUARANTEED. DATA NETWORK SHALL 38.85 20.00 Zumiez 49.0 8826 29.54 -0.47 NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INACCURACIES. 14 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 2, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Graphic Artist Tech Designer to $65K. Current exp in Leading Accessory Co seeks motivated wovens, knits, sptswr. Tops & bottoms. individual able to multi-task. Profi- Some unconstructed jkts and simple cient in Adobe CS2. Entry Level. Good dresses. Bway/36th St. Call 973-564-9236 Spring & Summer Close Out Wanted benefits. Fax res: Dawn 212-302-2753. or Email: jaralinc@comcastnet Men’s, Women’s & Children’s Clothing. Graphic Artist to 60K. Exp in Layette, B R A H M I N Big quantities if possible. Budget to Baby, Cutesy, Sweet, Girly appliques Tech Designer to 70K Current exp in Moderate pricing. CALL OR EMAIL: Jim and prints. Illustrator proficiency. contemporary dresses & sptswr. Chi- NATIONAL KEY at 212-997-3511 or [email protected] Full time perm only. nese English bilingual nec. Call 973- [email protected] 973-564-9236 564-9236 or Email: [email protected] ACCOUNT SALES Brahmin, a manufacturer of high quality Howe, a leader in the premium men’s market has LC/Import Coordinator TECHNICAL ASSIST/to $40K+ is seeking a dynamic indi- Growth oppty at major childrenswear vidual who will be instrumental in several exciting opportunities at its Huntington Beach, Major apparel company seeks individual co. 1 yrs expr, ability to spec & measure. with knowledge of entire process of growing established national retail CA headquarters. Email resume: [email protected] accounts. As a national key account LC and Production Import. Must be Fax 917-591-2521 Ph 914-337-3660 detail-oriented and possess excellent sales representative, working from our computer skills. headquarters in Fairhaven, MA, you Designer Tops Please fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 TECHNICAL DESIGNER/to $70K+ will be responsible in identifying and Responsible for the development and execution of concept For major childrenswear co. Must have analyzing revenue and profit opportu- Merchandiser/Designer 3+ yrs related expr measuring, specing, nities across our account matrix. A through completion in wovens, knits, , and / grading, fit comments, & Adobe Illust. keen awareness of market and com- Branded childrenswear company seeks Email resume: [email protected] petitive analysis is necessary for suc- outerwear. 2 talented experienced Merchandisers / Fax 917-591-2521 Ph 914-337-3660 cess. You will also partner with our Designers for better dress division and • 5+ years of design. marketing and design teams to help better outerwear division. All corre- develop annual & long term strategic • College degree in Fashion or Design/ equivalent work exp. spondence held in strict confidence. planning that is consistent w/ the growth Please email resume to vision of the Brahmin corporation. [email protected] Qualifications: Designer Bottoms Patternmaker Head $125-150K. • 5 years experience in retail/sales Research and design for the premium market regarding Chinese, English, Bi-Lingual nec. management Contemporary dresses/sprtswr. Supervise color, & non-denim fabrics, style, trends, product mix • Bachelors degree Showrooms & Lofts 5. Name brand designer. First and • Experience working in the apparel / and price points, fit and finishes. production patterns. Call 973-564-9236 accessories industry essential w/ solid BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS or E-mail [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail • 3+ years Design experience. Emphasis on men’s contemp- understanding of sales processes, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 policies, and procedures orary denim/sportswear market. Product Development Mgr. • Proven experience making strategic decisions based on understanding Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th Major apparel company seeks individual 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built • College degree in Fashion or Design/ equivalent work exp. the competitive marketplace, for managerial position. Responsibilities customers and retail trends. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 include approving lab dips, fabric, and Search- www.manhattanoffices.com • Strong knowledge of retail sales If you would like to be part of the apparel accessories. Individual will review design analysis, planning, and retail math company of choice, Send resume to: worksheets and coordinate information fluency bet. design department and production • Ability to travel up to 25% of the [email protected] department. Must have good organiza- time, domestic and international tional, communication and computer AA/EOE skills. Fabric construction knowledge E-mail: [email protected] and Wal-Mart experience a plus. Or fax resume to: (508) 994-4153 Design Director/Merchandiser $150- PLEASE FAX RESUME TO: 212-730-9705 175K. Current exp in girls infants to Off Price Sales tweens. Supervise designers. Develop PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Growing apparel off price wholesaler brands in all price point mkts. Must be seeks dynamic experienced salesperson. strong in fashion trends. Major apparel company seeks detail Track record and contacts for general Accessory Partner Wtd. 973-564-9236 [email protected] oriented & organized assistant for a busy off price apparel req’d. E-mail resume New cutting edge cold weather collection production job dept. Responsibilities and salary history in strict confidence looking for the right multi line acces- to [email protected]. sory co. willing to become partners. DESIGNER include PO entry, work order entry Would prefer co. w/ existing showroom Ladies and Company and sample tracking plus follow up and in NYC. Please call 856-220-5970. seeks a creative individual with at handling of all packing and carton least 3 years of experience in sweater markings. Must have good computer & market. Must be detail/and technically oriented. Strong computer graphics communication skills. AS 400 experience background and able to work under preferred. Fax resume to: 212-730-9705 tight deadlines. Applicants MUST Admin Assist $50-60K Min 3 yrs exp in have experience as a sweater designer. PRODUCTION ASST. sales administration. Fast paced apparel Please fax resume to: 212-594-5320 or Leading children’s apparel company co. Open order reports, liaison w/ E-mail: [email protected] seeks a highly motivated and detail- sales reps. Excell+ AS400. B’dway/36th oriented individual to oversee all St. 973-564-9236 or [email protected] Designer/Merchandiser aspects of production to ensure For boys sportswear size 4-20. Must be on-time delivery thru daily communi- Admin Since 1967 able to merchandise and design line. cation between design/sales and Freelance is okay. Individual needs to overseas vendors. Responsibilities W-I-N-S-T-O-N work independently . include: follow-up with overseas facto- PLEASE FAX Resumes to 212-730-9705. ries, delivery tracking & spreadsheets. APPAREL STAFFING Strong communication skills req’d. DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Must have good working knowledge of ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION DESIGNER Microsoft Outlook, Word & Excel. (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 SaraMax Apparel Group, a leading E-mail resume with salary Intimate Apparel Co. seeks strong requirements Attn Charles to: APPAREL OPPORTUNITIES designer with a junior market back- [email protected] Bonpoint Paris, prestigious growing international Children’s SRI SEARCH INC ground. Candidate must be a driven, www.srisearch.com creative designer who also has brand PRODUCTION ASST - Clothing Co. seeks for its Madison Ave boutiques and new 212-465-8300 and graphics exp to design a full line NY store opening at 392 Bleecker street: Allen Platt/Jennifer Glenn of Junior Intimates. Should also have TRIM BUYER [email protected] knowledge of the juniors market and Production Assistant- Trim Buyer needed [email protected] have worked with Mid-Tier, Specialty for Maggy London Dress based in New Assistant Managers and Dept. store retailers. Proficiency York. This is a fast paced environment with Microsoft Office is a must. located in our back room offices of our Sales Associates BABY PHAT FAX resumes: (212) 842-4020 production patternmaking and fit sample Designer & Graphic Designers Needed Attn: Antony Jacobs EOE making dept. Requires individual with Infants through 16 hands on trim buying and some technical Candidates must have minimum 2 years High-End Retail Email: [email protected] garment experience. Responsibilities Design/ include but not limited to trim buying Management/Sales Experience , excellent interpersonal skills & coordination/trim card development BOOKKEEPER Product Development and superior customer service. Luxury goods experience a plus. Ladies Domestic Importer seeks exp. for domestic and foreign factories, sam- Major apparel firm seeks organized & ple tracking - coordination, organizing, responsible individual to manage A/R, Asst. Designer. Must have strong prod- uct dev. skills and background in den- sending and filing fit comments, plus We offer competitive salary and full benefits package. A/P, G/L, factor statements reconcilia- other duties as directed by the produc- tion & Letters of Credit. Must have im & knits. Phone: 718-369-2656 (Ask for Debbi) Fax resume: 718-369-2689 tion manager. Dress experience a plus. Please e-mail your resume to: [email protected] expr. in garment industry w/ great (Bilingual; English - Cantonese/Mandarin communication & computer skills. Design Room Mgr to $120K. Current preferred, but not mandatory. Must be or fax it to: 212-246-3293 Please send resume to: computer literate with strong organi- [email protected] exp in supervising min. 20 designers, GA’s, assistants, etc. Boyswear li- zational skills.Benefits plus 401K. censed co. Strong in mgmnt of design Please respond with salary www.bonpoint.com Buyer (freelance) flow, calendar scheduling, etc. Call 973- requirements to E-mail: Looking for a freelance buyer for jun- 564-9236 or email: [email protected] [email protected] ior merchandise. Experience is a must. Production Coord $50-55K Exp in putting Send resume to: production pkgs together for Far East. [email protected] FIT MODEL/ Chinese, English bilingual. Approvals of fabric, art, fit, samples. Mdtn. Call: 973- Design CLERICAL ASST 564-9236 or Email: [email protected] REPUBLIC CLOTHING GROUP has CAD DESIGNER an immediate opening for a highly *Production---Production* motivated person to perform these Assistants-Coordinators-Managers Leading Menswear Company is seek- dual functions. The successful candi- Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries ing a CAD Designer with minimum of dates have basic clerical skills and Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY 2 yrs experience (Menswear Market). prior exp in an office environment. Specific measurements for the Samplemaker $600 a week. Must have Candidate must be organized, a team exp in expensive designer dresses, , player and proficient in Illustrator & Fit Model function: Height: 5’7 to 5’8 Bust 35-1/2” to 36” sprtswr. Full time perm only. Call 973- Photoshop (Mac). Responsibilities Waist 28” to 28-1/2” High Hip: 35-1/2” 564-9236 or Email [email protected] include: sketching, catalog pages, Low Hip: 38” to 38-1/2” CF Length TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s recoloring prints & plaids, story board from Neck to Waist: 14-1/2” CD Length presentations and assisting in all from Neck to Waist: 16-1/2” I NEED TD’S!! We offer a dynamic work environment *TD Cut & Sew Knits $85-$90K aspects of design. with an excellent benefits package. *TD Dress Sportswear $85K PLEASE E-MAIL RESUMES TO: Pls E-mail your resume *TD Runway Embellishments Dress $85K [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 212-947-3400