Enlivening a Legacy
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CUISINE Enlivening a legacy Indian cuisine is reasserting its purity on the global culinary map. We take a look at the story behind the concept called Modern Indian Cuisine text | Madhulika Dash t was in 1809 that Indian gastronomy arrived in the West with Chicken Tikka Masala (roasted chicken chunks). Served at Hindostanee Coffee House, owned by Ithe son of a former sepoy of the East India Company, Dean Mahomet, this mildly-spiced boneless chicken dish, by the turn of the year, was announced as a “culinary allowance” for members in the House of Commons. A century-and-a-half later, the world was introduced to Butter Chicken (cream-based gravy dish) and Dal Makhani (creamy lentils dish). These three dishes became synonymous to Indian cuisine. Contrary to popular belief, none of these were consciously tailormade to appease Western palates. Like the fabled Biryanis Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra by Library Masala (rice dish with spices and meat/vegetable) and Kebabs (roasted chunks of meat or vegetables) that introduced a new Indian Photos courtesy: courtesy: Photos culinary chapter, they were the result of Dal Chawal Arincini with achaar, papad and chutney INDIA PERSPECTIVES n 82 n SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2014 SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2014 n 83 n WWW.INDIAPERSPECTIVES.IN CUISINE Dabba Gosht Masala Scallops the want to create something new from the dynasty declined. The Hyderabadi Biryani traditional. This process led to evolution of introduced the popular concept of slow cooking technique and ingredients. And, in turn, became or the dum technique. a concept called Modern Indian Cuisine. Result: In modern times, newer means to achieve Every new culinary “generation” saw the traditional flavour were invented. Today, Nihari emergence of a new way to prepare it. uses Sous Vide to achieve the succulence begot For instance, the Biryani. Developed by by cooking the meat overnight – individual Mughal queen Mumtaz Mahal to feed armies shanks are marinated, vacuum packed and and yet travel miles without losing flavour, it cooked in a water bath for lesser hours. underwent seven iterations before the Mughal Techniques like Molecular Gastronomy were A reflection of evolution Indian cuisine continues to evolve. to resemble rice and pista (pistachio) The Galouti Kebab saw light of day along with lentils. courtesy royal patronage. It was created World-famous rosogullas, known for the queen who wanted a soft and for their softness, had their genesis succulent delicacy. Then there were the in the need to create something Tunde Kebabs, named after the one- unique from excess. Legend has it that handed cooks who worked unending Pahado Rosogulla (named after a small hours to pound the meat to perfection. village near Bhubaneswar in Odisha) Yet another innovation was the Rampuri variety evolved because of excess milk Khichda, the result of a competition there. In fact, it is often said the chenna between the cooks of Nawabs of Awadh, paudo (caramelised ricotta cheese), India’s Lucknow, Hyderabad and Rampur. The first cheesecake, was an attempt to create dish was made with almonds carved a large rosogulla that went wrong. Braised Mutton Chaap with maple and kokum glaze INDIA PERSPECTIVES n 84 n SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2014 SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2014 n 85 n WWW.INDIAPERSPECTIVES.IN CUISINE incorporated to compensate for balancing it a smoky flavour. It brings out the flavours in most flavours or for better presentation. Like in the tandoor items, including the pate-style Galawati case of Raita (spiced yogurt) spherification, Kebab (shallow fried tender meat/vegetable patties) popularised by Gaggan Restaurant in Bangkok that was reintroduced in the first menu of the Dum where the spicy yogurt preparation is served Pukht restaurant at ITC Maurya, New Delhi back on a chilled spoon in spherical in the 80s along with the famous Raan shape using sodium alginate as that came with a rum-marinade and setting agent. Encapsulated in The Biryani, cocktail onions in a Wellington-style bubbles, the flavours of yoghurt and developed by puff pastry case. Indian spices burst in the mouth, Mumtaz Mahal, Reinvention, in fact, became a giving the same taste without underwent seven key factor in reasserting the purity overwhelming spices. Something of Indian cuisine on the global iterations before similar was achieved with Jalebi culinary map. For instance, the Caviar where molecular technique the Mughal Atta Chicken (baked spicy chicken is used to create Jalebi (flour-based dynasty came to made inside a flour ball), a signature fried sweet) that resembles a bed of an end dish at Taj Mahal Palace & Towers’ orange caviars. Served over chilled Masala Kraft. This Khad-inspired Rabdi (milk dessert), it replicates the traditional dish (north Indian pottery community) follows Jalebi-Rabdi taste. the nomadic school of cooking where marinated Jalebi Caviar with saffron glaze andpistachio rabdi (below) Amuse Bouche or sev puri on the go Ghee Ghost (grilled mutton basted with clarified chicken was cooked buried in sand for hours butter) also changed the way food was flavoured. or from the heat of smoldering embers of the Introduced by the Bunts of Kundapur, a warrior tandoor. At Masala Kraft, the dish is prepared community in South India, it became a prominent inside earthen pots in an oven for 45 minutes way of basting meat on tandoor (clay oven) to give and served with fresh Phulkaas (Indian bread). Mutton Chaap (roasted goat ribs) is another through wholesomeness, others through interesting reinvention. The once rustic Afghan presentation. Like the Moplah-style Ghee dish that had salt and chilli as marination has Rice and Chicken Curry, steamed and served undergone numerous iterations, the most in a green banana leaf or a piquant Meen popular being the marination with aamchur Vevichathu (seer fish in a chilli-based gravy) (powdered raw mango) and garam masala (blend scores on the former. The combination of of spices like cumin, black pepper, clove...). The dishes both fiery hot and genteel works at Mutton Chaap with Maple Syrup and Kokum balancing flavours and creating the traditional Glaze served at Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra identity without spice overuse. The comes closer to the first Mutton Curry Leaf Pepper Prawns and Chaap. It follows the tandoor Thayir Sadam (chilled tempered roast technique to prepare, the yogurt rice) served on a shell is glaze which seeps down to the yet another example of such Tandoori Pink Salmon bone giving the dish character. flavour foreplay. The chilled The Mishti Doi Lollipop, made curd rice balances the peppery by instantly freezing dollops heat of the prawns. The Dal of Mishti Doi (sweet jaggery Chawal Arancini (panco yogurt) in an Anti Griddle, uses coated, fried lentil-rice balls) cold nitrogen gas to freeze works on presentation. This and can sustain flavours traditional Maharastrian despite temperature staple is served like a meatball changes. garnished with mini papads Not all dishes (thin sheets of black gram), have to resort to a chutneys and achaar (pickle) change in technique for a single-bite experience, to become part of the much like the Dahi Bhalla modern cuisine (lentil doughnut with spiced interpretation; yogurt) ice cream served at Ziya, some score The Oberoi Mumbai. INDIA PERSPECTIVES n 86 n SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2014 SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2014 n 87 n WWW.INDIAPERSPECTIVES.IN.