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Diver on wreck of the SS Carnatic Red Sea Wrecks Text and photos by Brandi Mueller Hurghada, Egypt The Red Sea, its reputation precedes itself. The beautiful red-orange desert mountains stand over the unexpected and contrasting blues of the water. The calm and clear waters hide much below. Under the water is a rainbow of colors, and among the fish and corals, are the re- mains of many ships. The Red Sea has been deceitful to many captains over time. The beautiful reefs that divers dream about here have also caused many a ship to meet its end. Sail- ors thought they were safe after clearing the challenging and narrow Suez Canal only to run aground or hit reef just out- side the canal. Misjudgment and bad weather as well as numerous wars have laid the stage for the demise of many ships. Although a popular dive location for Europeans, I (coming from the United States) knew very little about what I would find. I had always heard about its fantastic reputation and was excited to discover there were so many wrecks (which I happen to like very much). Not only are there wrecks, but there are wrecks with really great stories be- hind them. Gold coins, wars, motor- cycles and even toilets—who knew? I love nothing more than a good story and a good dive to create more diving stories to tell over a few drinks back on the boat. Lucky for me I had a week on Emperor Diver’s MV Superior liveaboard and a fantastic group of Finnish and Irish dive buddies. The hardest part was that there were so many wrecks with so much to see on 55 X-RAY MAG : 55 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Red Sea THIS PAGE: Scenes from the SS Thistilegorm; City of Hurghada (right) and Italian forces Thistlegorm, two ships ing a huge in the Mediterra- had collided blocking explosion nean, she made the entrance of the and sinking the long trip canal, forcing her to the ship. Two around via Cape wait before continuing. Heinkel He- Town, South She was moored at Safe 111 aircrafts Africa, refueled Anchorage F in Septem- had been and headed up ber, awaiting the call to dispatched through the Red continue up the canal. by the Ger- Sea towards the The Thistlegorm waited mans from Suez Canal. for two weeks and on Crete to find Passage October 6, in the middle and destroy through the Suez of the night, two bombs a rumored was dependent were dropped on her, ship carrying each one. I wanted to dive them over on how many other ships there were, both hitting a hold with 1,200 British and over again. The dive guides cor- enemy activity, and in the case of the stored ammunition caus- troops, and rectly assured me that the next one these aircraft would be just as good, if not better. were headed back after an unsuccess- Diving out of Hurghada in March, the ful hunt. They spotted the Thistlegorm at water temperature, frosty 22°C (70°F) anchor in the moonlight and decided was a bit colder than I expected (I to release the unused bombs. The hadn’t done my research before arriv- explosion almost tore the ship in two, ing). My first giveaway that the water and towards the stern, the ship seems would be chilly was when my boat to have peeled away leaving a distinct mates were unpacking their drysuits! missing section of the ship. Luckily the diving was so good that I While passing through Cape Town, didn’t notice I was cold until the safety the HMS Carlisle had joined the Thistle- stop. With so much to look at and so gorm and was anchored nearby also many things to take photos of, I hardly awaiting passage. The Carlisle rescued had time to notice I couldn’t feel my what crew it could, but nine of the 48 toes. didn’t survive. Launched in 1940, the Thistlegorm Diving the wrecks was built as a steam, single screw cargo SS Thistlegorm. The World War II Brit- ship. She only had four voyages, the ish Supply Ship, SS Thistlegorm, had fourth being her last. Her completed left Glasgow, England, on 2 June 1941 journeys were to North America to loaded with military supplies headed bring back steel rails and aircraft parts, for Alexandria, Egypt. Due to German Argentina for grain, and the West In- 56 X-RAY MAG : 55 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO THIS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of the Thistlegorm; Motorbikes stacked travel in the beds of trucks on deck (right) Red Sea bow and entered the interior of the ship one truck, our dive guide point- to visit holds #1 and #2. The first thing I ed out a battery which divers noticed inside the ship was motorbikes had rubbed clean of algae to upon motorbikes stacked in the beds show its brand. It is stamped of trucks. Three bikes to each truck and with “Lucas, 1941, Birmingham with many of the trucks you could see England, Lead Acid”. Swimming through the roof of the cab to the driver’s through the holds, there is a lot seat, clutch, pedals, and a few steering of outside light and quite a few wheels. exits if one wants to get out of Continuing over the trucks there were the ship. stacks of tires in any extra space in front On a second dive, we dove of and behind the trucks. Schools of the outside of the wreck first squirrelfish seem to have visiting one of two LMS Stanier dies for sugar and rum. made their homes in Class 8F steam locomotives, To Alexandria she was the ‘tween decks of the destined for Egyptian Railways, carrying Bedford trucks, ship, and they hovered that had been carried on the BSA 350 and Norton 16H above the trucks and deck of the ship. Both were motorbikes, boxes of motorbikes. A diver was hurled off the ship in the explo- rifles, aircraft parts, am- waving his flashlight at sion, landing one on either side munition, tires, Wellington me frantically summon- of the wreck. On our way back boots, torpedoes, tanks, ing me over and point- to the ship towards the stern, two locomotives and ed out a massive green there was an upside down tank other military supplies. moray eel coming out on which one could clearly On our first dive there of a crack between make out the caterpillar tracks. was some current, which a truck cab and bed. On the stern, the Thistlegorm is common, and we used Upon closer inspection, was armed with a 120mm a surface line to pull the eel seemed to be (4.7inch) anti-aircraft gun and a ourselves up to the bow guarding a Wellington machine gun (the latter being mooring and decent line. boot. attached after the construction We descended forward The trucks and motor- of the ship). Both of these guns are still in- horizontally. of the ship’s bomb de- bikes seemed to never tact, the forward gun pointing toward the Aside from all the exciting artifacts and struction towards the end, and in the back of sea floor and the machine gun outward historical WWII relicts, the Thistlegorm is 57 X-RAY MAG : 55 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Red Sea many artifacts have Scenes from the wreck been removed from the of the SS Carnatic ship as well; Cousteau, (above and left) himself, took a motor- cycle, the captain’s went to sleep, hand- teeming with marine life. We saw several cate the wreck in 1956 using knowledge safe, and the ship’s bell. Divers ing the vessel over crocodile fish lounging on the deck, the from local fisherman, but it was not found have removed many of the small to his officers and holds were filled with colorful reef fish, again and dove until the early 1990s. objects such as steering wheels giving the orders of batfish patrolled the decks, and pink and Unfortunately, time and extensive use and parts of the motorcycles “full speed ahead”. orange anthias guarded the soft coral- is taking its toll on the wreck. Rusting from over time. Shortly after, the ship covered winch. more than 70 years in saltwater as well as Even with the wreck pillagers hit the reef and sank. The Thistlegorm is one of the most many boats mooring directly to it in weak and dive boats and saltwater Having originally popular and most dived sites in the world, spots have caused collapses. Sadly, taking its toll, the Thistlegorm is a been launched as and it’s easy to see fantastic wreck dive. the Shoyo Maru in why. The cargo it Multiple dives are need- 1969, the 99m (325ft) contains makes for an ed to see the majority long and 16m (52ft) exciting treasure hunt of it, and even after wide cargo vessel with unsuspected many dives it would be was built in Japan. war artifacts found tough to get bored. She was sold and around every cor- Liveaboards frequent ner. Its max depth is the dive site. Being close to the Giannis D, the Carnatic, the around 30m (100ft) Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurgada, Chrisoula K, the Kimmon M, and the making it easy for day boats can easily get there.
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