“SERVING THE ANGLER WHO TRAVELS” $5

A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER THE ANGLING REPORT February 2016 Vol. 29, No. 2

Dateline: Chile that day later. commodations and meals, and, more Salmo Patagonia is owned by importantly, to the fishing trips orga- On-Site Report Spaniard Luis Antúnez (luis@pata- nized daily to some of the more than This Rainbow Fishing goniadream.com), who founded this 100 excellent lakes and rivers within lodge over 25 years ago and is not only driving range of his lodge. Each day’s Was Like Bonefishing a great host and guide, but also, in my fishing includes a nice lodge-prepared opinion, one of a handful of the top lunch, and the specific waters chosen Editor Note: Subscriber Michael Bar- depend upon the weather; the water nett says Salmo Patagonia Lodge in conditions; and the desires, abilities, Chile is his favorite in that part of the and preferences of his anglers. The world. It will be clear why when you lodge has more than enough variety in read about the overall experience he the available waters to accommodate had there this past January, capped by anglers ranging from novices to ex- a day of sight fishing for rainbows that perts. I have always found the guides left him speechless. Enjoy! there to be excellent, and, of course, his past January, I made my when Luis guides you, that is the best. ninth fishing trip to Patagonia, My cousin Jim and I started our Twhich was also my seventh to week with Luis on a nearby river that I a lodge in Coyhaique, Chile, called have fished on each of my trips to this Salmo Patagonia, my favorite of the fly fishermen in the world. He was a lodge, and the fishing there is always five Patagonian lodges that I have vis- tournament fly caster in his youth, has outstanding. We caught many brown ited. On this trip I had the single most traveled widely, and is a representative trout on dry flies and streamers before amazing day of fishing for rainbow for Sage rods. He gives his attention Luis said he wanted to show us a new trout that I have ever experienced in to every detail in the operation of the nymph-fishing technique developed my 60 years of fly fishing, but more on lodge, which provides outstanding ac- in the Czech Republic, which is re- nowned for the expertise of its nymph SUPPORT OUR CORPORATE SPONSORS fishermen. Although nymph fishing is my least favorite way to trout fish, it was interesting to learn the new tech- nique Luis taught us, and it was ex- tremely effective, allowing us to catch many fish from several pools that we had already fished well with the dries IN THIS ISSUE and then streamers. The next day, we drove through Belize Australia the magnificent Cerro Castillo range An Assessment of A Near-Guaranteed Spot of the Andes, stopping often to take El Pescador Lodge for Black Marlin on the Fly Pages 3–4 Pages 10–11 pictures of the mighty peaks and glaciers before arriving at one of the Bahamas Wisconsin many lakes in that region. We spent This Island Gets Nod This River Fishing for Muskie for Non-Fishing Spouses Was Good as It Gets on Fly a half day there wading along several Pages 6–7 Page 11 shelves of shallow, clear water, where we sight-cast to large brown trout with Subscriber-Written Reports British Columbia dry flies. We only landed about seven A Second Look at Cosmoledo Atoll Want to Go Mooching? Plus, New York, Mongolia, Australia This Is the Right Place or eight trout there, but they were all Pages 7–11 Pages 11–13 large, ranging from about 18 inches to THE ANGLING REPORT 25 inches. growth that began near the shore and As the week progressed, we ended extended out about 50 feet all around up fishing a half dozen different lakes the lake perimeter, until the water and rivers. Between the two of us, we reached perhaps 10 to 15 feet in depth. landed roughly 150 to 200 trout. But I There the weed growth gave way to the want to end this report by telling fel- clear, deep waters of the lake. low subscribers about our most amaz- Luis said he planned to take us out ing day. In addition to all the public in a row boat to sight-cast for the huge waters available in the area, Luis has rainbows. But, as we were putting on THE ANGLING REPORT permission to fish many private waters; our waders and excitedly preparing our EDITOR plus he owns a tract of about 2,500 rods, we realized that we had left some Don Causey acres that contains five private trout necessary fishing tackle at a cabin Luis lakes high in the Andes, with caretak- has on his land. He said he would drive MARKETING DIRECTOR ers living on the tract to watch over it. back to get it while we fished from Michael Lyons At midweek, we had a good weather shore until he returned. I had fished COPY EDITOR forecast, so Luis said he would take this lake several times in prior years, Gary Hamel us to what he thought would be the but always by wading shallow, clear best of his lakes. The weather ended flats with light-colored bottoms along LAYOUT & PRODUCTION up being dead calm and sunny all day, one side of the lake, where we had Ben F. Badger Jr. one of only two such days I have ever sight-cast to rainbow trout. ILLUSTRATIONS experienced in Patagonia. After casting dry flies from shore Gordon Allen As we drove to the lake, Luis ex- to several of the very large rainbows plained that it had been stocked many we could see cruising over the deeper years ago with both rainbow trout and waters, with no response from the fish, landlocked coho salmon, that many of I decided that I would walk over to the The Angling Report the salmon were eight to 12 inches in flats and fish those while awaiting Lu- 202-770-9942 length, and that the huge rainbow trout is’s return. It was much like bonefish- that lived in the depths of the lake had ing as I began to wade those flats, spot- The Angling Report (ISSN: 1045-3539) is published monthly by Oxpecker Enterprises, Inc., 4431 learned to come to the surface, some- ting single, cruising rainbows, casting Greenwich Parkway, Washington, DC 20007. times in schools or “packs” of three to them with dry flies, and watching Periodicals Postage Paid at Washington, DC. and or four or more big fish, to chase, hunt them readily rise and take my offer- at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to The Angling Report, 4431 down, and eat the large numbers of ings. By the time Luis returned after Greenwich Parkway, Washington, DC 20007. The small cohos that were staying mostly about 45 minutes, I was several hun- Angling Report is not a booking agent, nor is it near the surface that time of year. As dred yards out onto the flats and having affiliated with a booking agent, outfitter, or guide. we arrived at the lake, which was flat, a wonderful time, so I yelled to Luis How can we help you? calm, and clear, we could see many and Jim to go ahead in the boat without small cohos dimpling the surface all me, and pick me up later. Over the next New Subscriptions: A one-year subscription costs $49. Add $11 per year in Canada/Mexico. $29 over the lake. From a high bank we hour or so, I continued to fish those overseas. Visa/MC/Amex accepted. Contact us on the spotted several very large rainbow beautiful flats in peace and solitude, Web (www.anglingreport.com), by phone (202-770- trout cruising high in the water col- ultimately landing around 30 rainbows 9942), by e-mail ([email protected]), or by mail (The Angling Report, 4431 Greenwich Parkway, umn, both within and just outside of on dry flies, the largest about five Washington, DC 20007). the band of scattered underwater weed pounds. Up to that point in my life, the Online Extra Upgrade: One year costs $24, in addition to regular subscription fee. Puts one on list to receive e-mail invitations to go fishing FREE in Honor Roll Subscribers return for filing a report. Unlimited access to our trip- „„ The Angling Report encourages subscribers also get special consider- planning database also included. Plus, e-mail and hard copies of monthly newsletters. Same contact details subscribers to file reports on great ation for FREE trips. If you have been as above. places to fish and important news on an interesting trip recently, send a Trip-Planning Materials: Same contact details as developments that help the rest of us letter-length report to see if you can above. By phone, fax, e-mail, or mail. Do your own decide where to go—or not to go— get on our subscriber Honor Roll. E- searches on our website, www.anglingreport.com. Click on “Trip-Planning Tools.” Thousands of pages of sub- fishing. Subscribers who file unusually mail it to doncausey@anglingreport. scriber reports and previously published articles. important and useful reports are placed com. You can find the complete list of Subscription Questions: Same contact details as on our Subscriber Honor Roll and Honor Roll subscribers on our Web above. On our website, www.anglingreport.com, click sent a complimentary Angling Report site, www.anglingreport.com. Click on on “Subscribe.” Honor Roll fishing cap. Honor Roll “Honor Roll subscribers.”

February 2016 -2- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

largest rainbow I had ever landed was a my leader, I looked up to see my huge Dateline: Belize seven-pounder on the Kanektok River rainbow, which appeared to weigh 10 On-Site Report in Alaska. to 12 pounds, swimming slowly past While I was catching all those me within 20 feet, with a length of An Assessment of fish, and loving every second of it, I leader trailing from its mouth. El Pescador Lodge could see in the distance Luis rowing I made several loud yells, got the Jim along the outside boundaries of the attention of Jim and Luis, and waved Editor Note: Angling Report subscrib- weed lines, and several times I heard for them to come get me. As I climbed ers, collectively, are the most expe- loud yells and looked over to see what aboard the boat, my cousin began rienced and competent anglers ever appeared to be very large fish jumping telling me in excited terms of all the assembled in one place, and the remark- on the end of my cousin’s line. As I huge rainbows he had been seeing and able thing is many of them volunteer was about to call them to come get me, catching. They promptly put me in the reports that absolutely nail the experi- I spotted swimming past me 60 feet front of the boat with a streamer fly ences they have around the world. No away in the clear water a pack of four at the ready, and Luis began rowing hype. No nonsense. Just the facts and of the largest rainbow trout I have ever me along the outside perimeter of the anecdotes you need to fully understand seen, moving steadily along the deeper weed patches, while we peered into the an opportunity. Witness this report by side of my flat. I cast to them with my water using our polarized sunglasses Jim Burns that tells you what you need dry fly, but they ignored it. Five min- to look for big rainbows. Within a few to know about El Pescador and what utes later, I saw the same pack swim minutes, we spotted one; it took my you will experience if you go there. by again in the same area, and again Enjoy! they refused my dry fly. I then tied on y fishing buddy and I have a small streamer and waited. Within long had a trip to Belize on 10 minutes, I saw them coming again, Mour list of “must do” trips. taking the same track they had used Desert Sportsman, the best fly shop in the first two times. This time, one of the Phoenix metropolitan area, has been them inhaled my streamer, made a high sponsoring a trip there for a number of jump, and headed for the deep water, years, and this year we finally pulled the taking line rapidly. I stumbled into trigger and signed up for the trip. Kyle, deeper water trying to keep the fish the general manager of the shop, made from taking too much line, but the fish all the arrangements for a trip July 16– was soon into my backing as it entered 21, 2015, to Ambergris Caye. We stayed the deep part of the lake off the edge at El Pescador (www.elpescador.com) of my flat. I made it out to chest-deep streamer, and I landed a rainbow trout and, as Kyle had been there a number of water, stopped, and tried to coax the of 14 pounds. The two largest that Jim times, the planning was flawless. While big fish back on my 5X tippet. I was had landed had been 14 pounds and 17 it can be fun to plan a trip, there is a lot gaining line and my hopes were ris- pounds. By the time the sun dropped to be said for just letting somebody else ing, when I saw the fish head for a big below the trees that afternoon, we had do it. From Phoenix, our itinerary took clump of underwater weeds perhaps 30 landed 15 or 16 of those huge rain- us to Houston for a plane change and feet in diameter along the edge of the bows. The 10 largest averaged over 10 then a direct flight on a full-size jet right deep water. I could do little but watch pounds apiece! to Belize City. From there it was about and apply as much pressure as I dared It was a stunning day of trout fish- a 15-minute flight on Tropic Air over to as the fish swam right into the middle ing, far exceeding my wildest expec- Ambergris Caye. of the weed patch. I spent the next 10 tations. By the time we got the boat We were met at the airport in San minutes trying everything I could think back to the little landing, Luis’s crew Pedro by an employee of the lodge and of to get that fish out of those thick had arrived, set up a bug-proof dining taken by skiff (which is apparently a weeds, without success. I even consid- area, and were serving an asado they bit quicker) right to El Pescador. It was ered trying to swim the 100 feet to the had cooked for us on-site. It was a maybe a 10-minute ride, and we were weeds, but being almost 67 years old delicious finishing touch on the most given a cold beverage or two to pass the and wearing waders, I reluctantly con- amazing day of rainbow trout fishing time. Once there, check-in was a breeze cluded that was not a good option. The that I have ever experienced.—Michael and we were shown to our rooms. The fish finally made a spurt and my tippet Barnett. rooms were two twin beds, spacious and parted. By this time I was standing Postscript: You can get more informa- clean, with a very large and nicely ap- near the spot where I had first hooked tion on all of the programs at Salmo pointed bathroom. Happy hour awaited, the fish, and to add insult to injury, sev- Patagonia Lodge at: www.patago- followed by a nice fishing orientation eral minutes later as I was re-rigging niadream.com. for our stay. At the orientation we went

February 2016 -3- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT over the fishing options and some basic setting the hook on a bonefish. You need were coming from all angles and the pointers on the species and fishing con- to keep stripping until they come tight. wind was probably 15–20 knots most ditions. Belize offers bonefish, tarpon, Stopping the strip is fatal to hooking up. of the day. My friend and I had prob- and permit. Depending on what the A school of permit did swim by, and my ably 20–25 shots each, and I honestly angler wishes to target, the run every buddy got a good shot and an eat but don’t think we got the fly where we morning can vary from 20 minutes to didn’t get hooked up. We arrived back wanted to more than once or twice. The over an hour if migratory tarpon are the at the lodge in time for the daily happy casts might be long or short, you never quarry of choice. hour prior to dinner. know, but they always need to be made Dinner followed the orientation, We were fishing with 8 wts for quickly, and sometimes we just weren’t and it was served outside, family-style. bonefish (10 wts for tarpon and permit) up to the task of throwing standard WF All of the meals, it turned out, were and a tropical WF floating line. One floating line in that type of wind. It was very well done and presented, with the thing we quickly discovered was that quite the experience seeing those tarpon chef visiting every table and making while the shots were basically down- in a couple of feet of water, but we just sure everything was satisfactory. The wind, the wind was gusty, 10–20 knots could not get the fly where it needed service was impeccable. They have a for most of our trip. Even on a down- to be. One of the great things about tradition of giving departing anglers a wind shot, the wind can play havoc Belize, however, is that with about one pin commemorating the species caught with your backcast, and bonefish move and a half hours left in the fishing day during their stay, and on our first night quickly. So while bonefish are plentiful, the guide asked if we wanted to stop at one of the anglers at our table received a and we caught a lot of them, I wouldn’t a couple of bonefish spots on the way pin for a grand slam. say they are “easy” to catch. The excep- back to the lodge. We were frustrated The next morning we had elected to tion to that was when our guide stopped and somewhat tired from casting and target bonefish to get accustomed to the readily agreed. We made two or three guide and the conditions. Breakfast is stops on the way back and managed to served prior to leaving (or you can ask catch 8–10 bonefish at the end of the for a breakfast burrito to go), and we day. That became our standard proce- met our guide at 6:30 to get started. The dure for the rest of the trip—permit first fishing is done from pangas, and ours thing, followed by tarpon, and stops for was fitted with two Adirondack chairs bonefish on the way home. with cushions for the ride. I have never That afternoon we took advantage seen that setup before, and I must say it of another nice feature of the lodge, was very comfortable. Our guide, who, which is their free casting clinic, held by the way, spoke perfect English, sug- every day about 3:30. The instructor gested we fish the national park the first was knowledgeable and very patient in morning, and it was a pleasant 40-min- working with all the guests who wanted ute run over beautiful water. To fish in help. We talked to him about dealing the park you stop and pay a small fee at a mud. You could almost always with the wind. It turns out a lot of the and then it’s off to fish. count on catching a few out of there anglers use different tapers with shorter Bonefish in Belize are relatively without much trouble. shooting heads to combat the wind. The plentiful but run a little on the smallish The second day we elected to lodge had a couple of 10 wt rods loaded side. The guide asked if we wanted to fish for permit and tarpon. It turns out with Rio Tarpon QuickShooter that they catch bonefish the “easy way” or the that the guides like to fish for permit were happy to lend us, and that made “hard way,” which turned out to mean first thing in the morning, and we did the task much easier the next couple of did we want to sight-cast or fish muds. that for the first hour or so without re- days. We chose to sight-cast, and within the ally seeing any permit. After that, it Our last two days followed the pat- first 15 minutes I caught my first Be- was about a 20-minute run to fish for tern I mentioned above: looking for per- lizean bonefish—about three pounds, juvenile tarpon. I have caught juvenile mit, chasing tarpon, and closing the day which turned out to be one of the bigger tarpon in Mexico before, but this was with bonefish. We ended up jumping bonefish I caught on the trip. The guide something I had never done. We were five tarpon the next couple of days, and did a great job of positioning us for on a huge, gorgeous flat, and you could catching 5–10 bonefish each day. As for downwind shots all day, and really for see the tarpon coming over the white permit, on our last day we had two great the whole trip. All in all, we probably sand areas. It was basically sight casting shots at some bigger permit (guide es- landed about 15–20 bonefish by the end in a couple of feet of gin-clear water to timated 15–20 pounds) but couldn’t get of the day—most ran about a pound or 10- to 40-pound fish all day long. This them to eat. The guide’s ability to spot two. Candidly, it could have been a lot was, however, a frustrating day of fish- those permit from hundreds of yards more, but it takes a while to get used to ing—or should I say casting. The fish away was nothing short of amazing.

February 2016 -4- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT He would stand on the bow next to me, ence was that nothing was easy. We we know, they all did, but for some pointing the tip of my rod at the fish saw lots of tarpon and jumped a fair who had never tried saltwater fly fish- 150 yards away and I could see nothing amount but never boated one (others ing before—or any type of fly fishing in but water with a slight chop on it. Sure at the lodge did), which at least in my some cases—it might have been four to enough, when the fish got within 75 experience is pretty common. We had five caught during the entire trip. Like I yards or so I could pick up the big wake shots at permit but never hooked one said, they are plentiful but not necessar- of a permit pushing across the flat (we (again others did), and while we caught ily easy—particularly the first time out. did not see any permit tails in the air)— lots of bonefish, they were not neces- A couple of notes about the lodge it’s quite the sight. sarily easy. My buddy and I are fairly in general. The dinner meal is served As for gear, I would bring an 8, experienced saltwater fly anglers and family style al fresco and is very high 10, and 12 wt if you intend to seek quality. The fare is a mix of local sea- migratory tarpon (we did not). One food and meat or chicken with fresh thing I would definitely recommend is vegetables topped off by a delicious a variety of lines to combat the breeze. desert. One night they happened to I’m told it can be still at times (and that serve my all-time favorite meal—stone is apparently not ideal because of the crab and key lime pie for dessert! As heat and skittish fish) but when we were mentioned, the rooms are clean and there it was pretty steady at 5–15 knots spacious. The bar area has a pool table with occasional gusts to 20 knots. Our and a TV, usually with some type of fishing was all done from the skiff, al- sports coverage on—we saw the British though I am told wading for bonefish is Open and various soccer matches. You available if requested. Standard tarpon can opt for a plan where local beer, rum and bonefish flies all seemed to work, drinks, and sodas are included, so there and they have a well-equipped fly shop is no extra charge at the bar. For non- at the lodge. One thing that did surprise we figured out pretty quickly not to fishing guests, the lodge has at least two me was our guide really did not want make comments at the bar like “we had swimming pools that I saw, and snor- to use permit crab patterns much—he a fair day, jumped a couple of tarpon keling, diving, and trips to the reef are mainly just had us use bonefish flies for and caught about a dozen bonefish.” available. At least this year, from July permit. The guests at the lodge come from all through the end of the year, the lodge My only word of caution is that different parts of the world and have is running a 2-1 special, so the price of some of the guests seemed to expect all different levels of experience, and the trip was under $2,500 each, which permit would be “easy” or that they for some the goal was simply to catch we all thought was a tremendous value would “at least catch one in four to five a bonefish on fly, having never been for the experience provided. We defi- days of fishing” in Belize. Our experi- saltwater fly fishing before. As far as nitely expect to be back in the future.

Briefly Noted Things to Do . . . Places to Go . . . New Developments „„ It’s important, we feel, when a new ferent when Honor Roll subscriber Allan “The accommodation here is in fishery comes on line, that we reach out Craig fished the area. Here is what he Uakari Lodge (Pousada Uacari), which to more than one angler for a report. Af- has to say about the experience: is very popular among eco-tourists who ter all, one report may catch a fishery at “Heading into this experience, I come to see the many forms of wildlife, its worst or its best. Either single report expected to spend my week in remote including birds, that live in the surround- would provide a skewed perception, no? thickly vegetated marshes under Spartan ing jungle. On their website, they state What occasions that comment is a survivalist camping conditions trying to that you will wake up to the sound of pi- follow-up report we just received on that catch an almost impossible species of rarucu (aka arapaima) hitting their tails new arapaima spot in Brazil developed fish. As it turned out, the accommoda- against the water. Indeed, the fish were by Untamed Angling (www.untamed- tions were much more comfortable than frequently doing just that, and splashing angling.com). Subscriber Randy Sultan I had hoped, and the fish were much the walkways, plus bumping the flooring reported on the place last month, you’ll more numerous and catchable than I beneath the floating cabins. Some of the recall, giving it a generally good review had imagined. To make the trip even bumping was also caused by other crea- in spite of low-water conditions that more appealing, access was almost easy tures such as black caiman. restricted his fishing access to a handful compared to some of the other fishing “Though the fish were obviously of areas. Well, conditions were very dif- options in the Amazon. numerous, that did not mean big fish

February 2016 -5- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT were easy to catch. Anglers in prior who enjoys wildlife and photography complaints. weeks had landed fish over 200 pounds, could consider this trip as an option. Just “So, where is the fishing? In my but the water had risen considerably by be aware that there are small fans, but no few trips there I have found that the east the time I arrived. The channels that had air-conditioning at this time. I booked end of the island, out from McLean’s produced well for others did not produce my trip through The Fly Shop (800-669- Town, has vast stretches of quiet bone- well for us. That’s not to suggest we 3474) in Redding, California. Michael fish water around the series of keys to didn’t catch fish. On the first morning, Caranci handled all the arrangements the east and on the north side of the is- in fact, after several hours of no action, and everything went smoothly. The cost land. There are reputable bonefish lodg- my boat partner hooked up. While wait- of the four-day trip was $4,250, plus es in that area for sure, but that would ing to see where I should stand to be out guide tips, and a $450 fee that goes to not work with my wife. So, I found of the way, my line tightened up. An the local community.” Captain Phil & Mel’s Bonefishing Guide arapaima double! Fortunately, the two Service (www.bahamasbonefishing.net), fish went in opposite directions, and we „„ We have mentioned frequently that which is literally a mom-and-pop opera- eventually landed one about 50 pounds Grand Bahama Island is uniquely ap- tion that employs a couple of relatives and the other (my fish) of over 100 propriate for the angler who wants to as guides. My guide, P.J., picks me up at pounds. After that, our group frequented take a non-fishing spouse along on a Ca- the hotel at 7:00 AM, we make the ap- the channels and large lake; watched big ribbean fishing trip. Here’s another ar- proximately 50-minute drive to the dock fish surface around us; but just never gument to that effect by peripatetic and and are fishing by 8:30. At the end of found the right fly, fly line, depth, or wonderfully prolific subscriber, Elbert the eight-hour fishing day, he drives me retrieve to catch large fish. Admittedly, Bivins. He writes: back to the hotel. I never saw another this was an exploratory trip, and that “My spouse much likes going fish- fisherman on my recent trip. meant the guides had minimal firsthand “My experience with Bahamas experience with the fishery. They were guides has been spotty, with the gaps still learning what to do in the different in their performance more related to at- water conditions. titude than ability—not a problem with “While the rising water in the lake P.J. He knows how to behave when I and channel made fishing there less pro- blow the perfect opportunity at a fish ductive, it created an entirely different he has presented to me. In many places opportunity in the shallow lagoons. As in the Bahamas, clouds and wind seem rising water entered the lagoons, smaller to be a big issue, but we had clouds and arapaima of 20 to 50 pounds followed in some wind and rain, and it did not slow good numbers. These fish were actively us down. We saw hundreds of bones feeding, too. Using floating lines in shal- in skinny water (schools, pods, and lower water, my fishing partner and I singles), and some of them were big, brought about 20 fish to the boat in just ing but only spinning, trolling, etc., and 8-10 pounds. Yes, they are as spooky as one morning. The other boat did equally not sight fishing with a fly rod. That bones are everywhere, but I was able well in a different lagoon. One angler presents me with a problem if I want to to overcome that and subdue a few in also hooked into a single very large fish, go bonefishing and yet have her make my two days with him. We did particu- which broke his leader after a long run. the trip with me. She’s not interested in larly well wading at one point in an area “We fished a total of four days, ex- staying at a fishing lodge; she wants the where the fish didn’t panic when a fly perimenting a lot in different locations amenities of a resort and access to res- landed among them. P.J. has lived and and for different species. It was a lot of taurants and nightlife. I want fairly re- fished this area all his life, so he knows fun using lighter rods and poppers on mote and undisturbed fly water. It is sort every good fishing spot on that end of the abundant, aggressive and acrobatic of hard to find both, but I think I have. the island. His boat is what I would call arowana. Another excellent fly rod fish “Freeport, Bahamas, is only an hour well used, but it worked fine and, impor- was the tambaqui, a hard-pulling species and a half from Atlanta on Delta. There, tantly, it had a rail on the deck to lean resembling the pirapitinga in Tsimane the Grand Lucayan Beach Resort (www. against. that prefers “fruit” fly patterns resem- grandlucayan.com) has all the amenities “Freeport has the deepest harbor on bling seeds. and is just across the street from restau- the east coast, and accepts the world’s “Regular trips to this destination rants, shops, and Count Basie Square, largest supertankers and other ocean-go- will likely begin next season. Travel to which is the entertainment hub of the ing behemoths. P.J.’s other job is piloting the lodge is relatively easy: it starts with Port Lucaya Marketplace. It is remark- those ships into the Freeport harbor. He a one-hour commercial jet flight to Tefé ably inexpensive; I think we paid about is pretty handy with his 16-foot Dolphin from Manaus, and then a one-hour boat $180 a night, which includes the resort skiff, too. The cost was $450 a day plus ride to the lodge. A non-angling spouse fee. Clean, with attentive staff, I had no tip. No extra charge for the transport. I’ll

February 2016 -6- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT be seeing him again.” relationships with operators in Cuba, from nearby Biscayne Bay to Flamingo Mexico, Central America, the Baha- to the Florida Keys. They are prepared „„ Anglers who live in Miami, Flori- mas, Colombia, Chile, and Argentina, to book your local trip or simply con- da, or pass through there on their way nect you directly with a trusted guide. to fishing destinations elsewhere will One nice new touch is that cus- be interested to know that The Fly tomers who purchase a new rod will be Shop of Miami has changed hands. The offered a complimentary casting lesson new owner is Luis Menocal, a longtime with Dave Olson, a champion fly cast- angler and member of the Bonefish & er. Dave will also be offering classes Tarpon Trust Board of Directors. We and private casting lessons for $75 an recently spoke with Luis about the hour through the shop. Efforts to intro- plans he has for the 25-year-old fly duce younger anglers to fly fishing are shop, formerly known as Biscayne Bay high on his list of objectives, Meno- Fly Shop until eight years ago. cal says. If you would like to receive Most importantly for readers of the shop’s newsletter, you can sign up this publication, the shop is now offer- with more to come in the future. Lo- online at: www.flyshopofmiami.com. ing a full-service travel program for lo- cally, the shop is in touch with a vast The shop telephone number is 305- cations worldwide. The shop has direct network of guides who fish all the way 669-5851.

OUTFITTER CRITIQUES The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

This section of The Angling Report is based entirely on subscriber-written Fishing Trip Report Forms. Our policy on these forms is to publish excerpts in the newslet- ter of Angler Network Forms as received without censorship. Agents, guides, lodge operators, and/or outfitters who disagree with anything said about them in this section are free to submit a rebuttal. As a subscriber, you can help extend the reach of this program by filing a Fishing Trip Report Form yourself. You should find one inside this issue of your newsletter. Alternately, you can file a report online by going to our website, www.anglingreport.com, and clicking on “File a Report.” For details about how to do custom searches for Angler Network Reports on our website, see page 2 of this issue. „„ Last month, we published a report caught it by quickly replacing his large GT ing the magnificent endless flats of the on a trip to Cosmoledo Atoll that was all fly with a crab fly. It was a propitious way huge inner lagoon. The volcanic caldera but ruined by bad weather. It was sent to to start our trip. here extends to about seven miles across, us by subscriber Bill Taylor. Fortunately, Our overnight run to Cosmoledo was and it is interspersed with huge mush- this past month, we have received a report uneventful, which allowed us to settle into room-shaped coral heads. It was around from Honor Roll subscriber Ueli Zellwe- what would become our daily routine. those that I repeatedly had the enormous ger that provides some needed balance in That started each day with breakfast at joy of hooking up with all sorts of species our coverage of the fishing around this ex- 7 AM, followed by getting dressed and such as ferocious-looking Bohar snapper, tremely remote, hard-to-reach spot in the ready to leave the mother ship at 8 with a weird groupers, and even green jobfish. Indian Ocean. Zellweger writes: sandwich lunch in our bags. We ate that One afternoon, after wading an enor- “I write this having just read Bill Tay- each day on the flats and usually returned mous flat, I asked our head guide, Joa- lor’s report about his trip to Cosmoledo. to the boat around 6 PM after long, hard quin, to put me into a different kind of My own trip there, just three weeks later, days of fishing. A beer or two, a good action. The next minute saw us motoring unfolded under almost perfect weather shower, and an aperitif were all that stood at top speed to an area of coral heads. conditions. My full pleasure started with between us then and a fine three-course What James (my buddy for the day) my two-and-three-quarter-hour flight dinner on the open afterdeck. and I hooked up with and landed or lost from Mahé to Assumption Island. The As for our fishing, it was apparent over the next 75 minutes was simply sky was blue and the Indian Ocean al- that the majority of GTs were feeding mind-blowing. Joaquin was continuously most completely calm as we prepared to predominantly offshore, a phenomenon busy unhooking and releasing what we transfer from the plane to the mother ship, that Bill Taylor noted in his report. Still, managed to bring to the boat, as well as Maya’s Dugong. As things were readied everyone in our group managed to hook frantically tying on new flies and leaders for us aboard the ship, we spent a couple and land his share of GTs. The GT tally that had been ruined or broken by massive of hours fishing a long beautiful beach on at the end of the week was a respectable fish that rose to our offerings, did their Assumption Island, where the only novice 82 divided between 10 rods. And, make damage, and headed back down to their saltwater fly angler in our group proceed- no mistake, we had good success on other hiding places in 30 to 60 feet of water. We ed to hook and land a decent permit. He species, utilizing methods other than wad- finally gave up on this activity due to ach-

February 2016 -7- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT ing arms. two brown trout and one rainbow on [email protected]. Another day, we were left for a while streamers, and I enjoyed many more chas- on a lonely sandy beach because one of es and strikes. I also landed two rainbows „„ Subscriber Bill Wichers just sent us the anglers in our group had to be motored on dry flies. The largest fish I took were a report on what he says is his fourth trip back to the Dugong. We immediately got in the 18- to 20-inch range. Nick fishes to Mongolia. He writes: “As I write this, into fish such as big-eyed trevally and oth- Thomas and Thomas rods with Wulff lines I have just spent the last 14 days of Sep- er species. At one point, I spotted a gray and Hardy reels, using large black and tember floating approximately 200 miles area some 400 yards off the beach. Mov- green streamers and small olives. How- of river in the northeastern part of Mon- ing closer, I realized what I was looking at ever, the real highlight of Nick’s equip- golia. As on my previous trips, taimen, was a huge shoal of good-sized bonefish. ment was the bamboo rods he brought the largest salmonid in the world, were the I took six or seven fish and then left it for along. He makes these rods himself, and primary target species, though Amur pike my partner and waded on to the next drop- he brought along three of them for me to (up to 36 inches), Amur trout (18 to 25 off, where the outgoing tide washed over a try. I am considering ordering one. Nick is inches) and lenok (up to 25 inches) were rim. I was into beautifully colored emper- also an excellent fly tier. He ties a number also taken by fishermen in my group. ors and other species almost immediately, of unique variations on the small olives My flights started at the Missoula, and I kept catching them until I just gave that are present in the system. Montana, airport and ended almost 24 up, too exhausted to release any more fish. “The day we fished, the river had hours later at Chinggis Khaan Internation- Keep in mind that all of this action just cleared following a rain, and the tem- al Airport in Ulaanbaatar. Sixteen of those took place in the context of great scenery, hours were spent in the air. I arrived a day with a roaring surf in the distance, count- early in case flight delays were a problem less boobies and greater frigate birds fly- and also to do a bit of shopping and sight- ing above, and hawksbill turtles feeding seeing, and to work off the jet lag. The around us in turtle grass. Sometimes boo- morning after that, our group climbed into bies even tried to land on our rod tips. a small plane for a one-hour flight, at the Our group was quite international, end of which we landed in a pasture that but with South Africans predominating. It was transformed into a runway by adding was a great group. I can’t remember hav- 12 orange cones. We promptly loaded into ing ever laughed so much. It is a very long four-wheel-drive vehicles for a 45-minute way to Cosmoledo, and there are always drive to the launch site where we started going to be weather issues there, but I our float. consider it a special privilege to be able The trip was continuous, but split into to fish this remote paradise. I booked my perature was very comfortable. No hatches an upper and lower float. On the first half trip to Cosmoledo with Alphonse Fishing were present until the afternoon. As Nick of the trip (upper), we floated from one Company ([email protected]), predicted, at almost 1 PM exactly, small ger (yurt) camp to the next. Everything ex- which has an exclusive concession to fish olives began to blanket the water. We were cept the gers was packed up each day and Cosmoledo during the entire four- to five- lucky enough to have light winds and moved by vehicle downstream to the next week season beginning in November and numerous targets for the remainder of the camp. The lower float was through a more the six- to seven-week season beginning day. remote area, much of it through a national in March. “One of the highlights of the trip was park. Here, the entire camp had to be taken an excellent shore lunch featuring cured down each morning and floated on rafts to „„ The Delaware River in New York meats and bread. We also had a pair of the next campsite. Large teepee tents were State has gotten good marks in the past bald eagles follow us down the river for provided for the clients. We slept in those, from subscribers for its consistent hatches part of the trip. All considered, it was a two clients per teepee. Cots with inflatable and large (albeit well-educated) trout. That fine day of fishing with an all-around great pads, a sleeping bag and several blankets favorable view of the river is seconded by guide. Interestingly, Nick noted at one were provided both weeks. The wood subscriber James Larkin, who enjoyed a point that he intends to offer a cabin for stoves fired up each morning by a camp float trip there this past October. He writes: rent in connection with his trips beginning helper on the upper float were greatly “On a beautiful fall day this past this spring. We drove by the cabin, and it missed on cold mornings the second October I fished the Delaware River, spe- sits right on the banks of the Beaverkill, week! A shower tent and two pit toilets cifically the stretch from Shehawken to just below one of the better restaurants in were provided at each camp both weeks. Buckingham. My guide was Nick Rubicco the area, Riverside Cafe.” A dining ger for breakfast and dinner was from Roscoe, New York. He provided Postscript: James Larkin says the cost provided the first week, while a large din- excellent service during the one-day float of the guiding part of his trip was $425, ing tent served that same purpose during trip. including lunch. Nick Rubicco can be the second week. “Over the course of the day I landed reached at 917-806-5151; or by e-mail at Byemba, the camp manager, did

February 2016 -8- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT a great job, as did Bogi, the head chef. and missed. Guides keep track of the num- persuaded the client to make another cast The camp ran smoothly, requests were ber and size of taimen landed. The second to the fish. As Fong puts it in the final line handled promptly, and the food was very week, five of us totaled about the same in his article, “He hit it even harder the good. Breakfasts included a wide variety number, but two fish were really large, 47 second time.” of items (fruit, eggs, meat, cereal, bread, and 50 inches respectively. It is extremely important to make etc.), and lunches were group events held Taimen fishing is very visual, as the one or more good, solid strip sets when a on gravel bars along the river. Many of water here is usually clear, which means taimen takes your fly. Simply lifting the these lunches featured fresh meat grilled you often see the fish approaching your rod tip for a typical trout set won’t cut on an open fire. Dinners generally featured fly. Strikes can be spectacular, especially it. You need to stick a taimen hard like a beef, chicken, or lamb as the entrée, with on surface flies. Many times they will small tarpon. If he misses the fly (which several side dishes and salads. Wine and jump partially or completely out of the happens fairly often), the strip set leaves beer were available at lunch and dinner. water on the take. A 40-inch taimen ex- the fly in the water near the fish. The most No one had any complaints about the ploding out of the water while inhaling important piece of advice I can give first- camp or food. your fly is a guaranteed adrenaline rush. time taimen fishermen is to keep stripping The members of our group were from This is what keeps me coming back to the fly when a fish makes a grab for it. It’s New Zealand, Singapore, South Africa, Mongolia. Taimen are much more aggres- exciting as hell when a big boil happens and the United States. Some of the group sive and exhibit very different behavior around your fly and most people immedi- took only the upper float, while three of than the trout species I am familiar with. ately rear back with the rod. Many times it us among the original group took both is premature to do that. All you do is jerk floats. The head guide, Peter Fong, is the fly away from the fish. Keep stripping from the United States, but he currently until you feel a tug, then hit him with a lives in Morocco. The other guides were strong strip set. Chilean, Mongolian, and American; all The other top predator in Mongolia, had multiple years guiding experience in Amur pike, rarely attack surface flies. Mongolia. Guides were rotated daily, and Streamers attached with a short piece of all were outstanding. Most of the fishing wire leader work best for these fish. Amur was done from ClackaCraft drift boats, pike look like our northern pike (except but we also did some wade fishing in side their spots are black instead of white), and channels when we stopped for lunch and they also strike and fight like a northern. around camp in the evening. The last day Our party caught a number of pike up to of the lower float was devoted entirely to 36 inches. Normally, they are only found wade fishing around camp. in sloughs and backwaters, but 2015 was a We had some warm, sunny days dur- It’s common for taimen to attack flies mul- very dry year and a lot of their usual habi- ing the two weeks, but the weather was tiple times, even after you hook and lose tat was drying up, concentrating them and mostly cloudy and cool. Rain and high them. At one point, I had a 29-inch taimen pushing some into the main river. winds made parts of two days uncom- jump completely out of the water on the During the second week, our party fortable, but generally the weather was strike and fight hard through deep, fast averaged several of the rare and beauti- reasonably good with high temperatures water all the way across the river. When ful Amur trout per day, mostly on small in the low 50s. Cloud cover seemed to pro- we got it in the net, it opened its mouth streamers. Pound for pound, this fish may vide the best fishing. Mornings were cool, and the fly was just lying there loose in its be the hardest-fighting fish in the river. below freezing a few days. mouth! It had simply clamped down on A similar species, the lenok, is the most As for tackle, 8 or 9 wt rods with the Gurgler and it didn’t let go of it until it common game fish in the river and readily floating lines were the norm when fish- was netted. Apparently, this is fairly com- take dry flies. In good grasshopper years ing for taimen. Gurglers, mouse patterns, mon with taimen. Peter Fong eloquently (like my first trip to Mongolia), lenok pro- and various white streamers were the describes this behavior and more in an vide world-class dry fly fishing. Unfortu- best taimen flies. Streamers were usually article entitled “Second Chances” that ap- nately, 2015 was a very poor hopper year paired with sink tips, but fast-sinking lines pears in the Fall 2015 edition of the Drake and most lenok were caught while fishing were also employed a few times in deep magazine. In that article, he tells a story for taimen. water. A really abundant year class of about a 32-inch taimen that hammered a During the 200-mile float, we went 17- to 22-inch taimen was present, which client’s mouse fly and fought hard to the under one bridge, passed one village bodes well for future fishing. Around 80 boat, at which point the fly popped out of and saw some scattered gers. While big- percent of the taimen caught were in this its mouth. The fish did not swim away, game animals are scarce due to hunting size range. The first week, seven of us however, but simply lay on the bottom, by locals, we did see a roe deer, heard landed about 150 taimen, the largest al- resting, fully visible a few yards away. The elk bugling, and saw wolf tracks. Several most 40 inches, and bigger fish were seen client was despondent until Peter finally interesting bird species were seen, includ-

February 2016 -9- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT ing azure-winged magpie, Amur falcon, caught on the fly, including five in one “mack” tuna crashing bait under flocks of white-tailed eagle, whooper swans, black day. This appears to be a world record. birds. We also saw longtail tuna on bait. grouse, Daurian partridge, and demoiselle “Hervey Bay and Fraser Island are Our first marlin rose on the morning of the cranes. Most of the float is through grass- about 200 miles north of Brisbane. A second day. Andrew teased it in, and I got land steppe with timber-covered hills in unique set of currents and bottom struc- the fly out to the teaser, at which point the the background. Much of the lower float is ture create this exceptional fishery. Seems marlin grabbed it but released it quickly. through a very scenic canyon area. currents here push bait against a 15-mile Andrew threw the teaser out again and got The outfitter of my trip was Mongolia beach on Fraser Island at the same time the marlin to come back up. Again, it ate River Outfitters (www.mongoliarivers. juvenile black marlin are moving through my fly but let go quickly before I could set com) booking agent Dan Bailey (406-586- the area on an annual migration south. the hook. Within an hour we had another 8137). Mongolia River Outfitters was one Hervey Bay is a significant whale watch- black marlin come up for the teaser but it of the first fishing outfitters in Mongolia. ing area for about 100 days ending in left so quickly I was not able to get a shot They run a very experienced, first-class October. As we fished for black marlin, we at it. operation. They work with Nomadic often saw whales both in close proximity “After that initial flurry of activity, we Journeys, a longtime travel company in and in the distance. had several blank days. There was a lot of Mongolia, which provides the vehicles “I arranged ten days of fishing with wind most days. We caught some mack and drivers in Ulaanbaatar and at the Andrew this past October. Many airlines tuna on lures with spinning gear and an upper-river fishing camps. This two-week service Brisbane, including Emirates Air- occasional longfin tuna. Andrew cut the trip will cost $9,975 in 2016, including bellies out of the mack tuna to add to the all transportation within Mongolia, two teaser and further entice any black marlin hotel nights in Ulaanbaatar, and 13 days of that might be in the area. guided fishing with food, beer, wine, ac- “On about the sixth or seventh day commodations, and fishing license. Would we had another black marlin come up on I do it again? Absolutely! My wife and I the teaser briefly but not long enough for are already booked for 2017. a cast. Another little taste. Finally, on the Postscript: The company website gives the eighth day, a black marlin came to the cost of the “Upper-Lower River Combina- teaser and cooperated. I got the cast out tion Trip,” with “thirteen continuous fish- to him and stripped it some to entice him. ing days” as $9,975 and weeklong trips He ate the fly aggressively, and I got the start at $5,950. Contact dan@fishmongo- hook in him. After a great 15-minute fight lia.com for booking information. we had him alongside the boat. He put lines. Quantas flies directly to Hervey Bay, on a great show with numerous beautiful „„ Catching a marlin on the fly is one of too. The Hervey Bay area has a population jumps. He appeared to weigh 30 to 35 those bucket-list items some subscribers of approximately 50,000. Andrew met me pounds. Spectacular! to this publication really want to check off. at the airport on my arrival, and we went “We fished two more days, raising Subscriber Don Armstrong tells us he has fishing immediately. one more fish, but we couldn’t get a shot. found a place in Australia to do that. Just “There are plenty of accommoda- The marlin fishing was not really produc- don’t expect any large fish or guaranteed tions in the area. I stayed at a trailer park/ tive, but it was fun. Fortunately, there were action. Armstrong says his trip was han- hostel called Boat Harbour Resort. The always tuna around to break up the day. dled for him on the east coast of Australia room had its own bathroom and was fine Andrew says the tuna fishing just gets bet- north of Brisbane by Andrew Chorley of for me as a fisherman. I did not need to ter and better all the way through February Hervey Bay Fly and Sportfishing (www. rent a car, as the room was located right and March when the schools stay up near herveybaysportfishing.com.au). Enjoy! at the harbor where Andrew launches his the surface long enough to get them on the “An article about fishing for juve- boat each morning. He has an 18-foot fly more frequently. I followed Andrew’s nile black marlin in the shallow water of Galeforce boat, which is a quite adequate newsletter after I left and apparently the Hervey Bay sent me scurrying to the In- bay boat. He is planning to purchase a new baby black marlin cooperated again in ternet a while back, where I found a list- boat next year of approximately 21 feet. November. You can read his newsletter by ing for Hervey Bay Fly and Sportfish- His current boat was perfect for the fishing going to his website. ing, which is owned by Andrew Chor- we did, however. This fishery is off Fraser “Would I go again? I feel like I ley. Andrew is a young man who has Island and in fairly deep water subject to checked an item off my bucket list by developed an exceptional and unique whitecaps and significant waves. Andrew getting a baby black marlin on the fly. It fishery in Hervey Bay/Fraser Island. In warned me to be prepared for rough rides. was spectacular to do that, and Andrew 2014, his clients caught approximately “On my arrival day, we fished for a was great to fish with. I am considering 60 juvenile black marlin up to about 80 half day without seeing any black marlin. another visit here in November at some pounds. Twenty-one of the marlin were On the way out, we did see groups of point. Andrew says the mack and longfin

February 2016 -10- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT tuna fishing on the fly can be spectacular report, you probably know already that pewa. Overall, we had an excellent trip. then. I might try that someday.” muskellunge, in addition to being re- The guide service cost us $425 per day, clusive, are solitary and nasty, and usu- and we found reasonably priced local „„ If you are looking for a place to catch ally damn hard to catch. They can reach lodging. What we found ranged in price muskie on the fly, subscriber David Syl- lengths up to 55 inches and live 40 years. from $60 to $140 per night. While you stra has just the place for you, namely, That reputation aside, I hooked fish on are in the area, a good place to visit is the the St. Croix, Namekagon, and Chippewa three days out of five on my recent trip, Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame. Enjoy!” Rivers in north Central Wisconsin. He bringing two of those to the net, one a fished there this past October with guides „„ Subscriber Jim Mercer has good Erik Huiber and Stu Neville of Hayward things to say about two days of bonefish- Flyfishing Company in Hayward (www. ing he arranged for himself and a friend haywardflyfishingcompany.com), and he on Great Exuma in the Bahamas this has this to say about the experience: past July with independent guides Garth “If you are not into relentless casting Thompson and Reno Rolle. Mercer says for an alpha predator in crappy weather, he booked the guides via the Out Islands this may not be your gig. On the other Excursions website, www.exumabone- hand, if you do like that sort of thing and fishing.com. your interests include tangling with “Both guides were very good fisher- muskies, I know just the area for you: men,” Mercer writes. “And there were lots Hayward, Wisconsin. Most of the fishing of bonefish around. No matter what you in this part of northern Wisconsin is done hear, don’t avoid Exuma in July thinking on lakes with artificial lures, but don’t let that the heat will drive the bonefish off the that deter you, as fishing with flies in the flats. It doesn’t. On day one we caught 26 local rivers is actually more productive 38-incher and the other a 40-plus-incher. I fish, 13 in each boat. On day two, which than with lures. At least it was during my brought another 40-incher to the boat but was abbreviated because of travel, we visit this past October. Just be prepared the hook pulled out at the net. We fished caught 10, five per boat.” for any kind of weather. During my trip, drift boats the entire time, casting 9 and Mercer gives the cost of the guide it was alternately clear and pleasant, and 10 wt rods with sinking lines attached to service as $380 per guide per day. He windy and rainy with temperatures in the 6- to 10-inch streamers. gives the experience overall good marks, 40s. It was also gray, sunny, and cloudy, “Our guides provided excellent noting that the guides’ boats were worn, and it even snowed a little. service on all three rivers we fished, the but well maintained. He recommends the “If you have read this far in my St. Croix, the Namekagon, and the Chip- experience to fellow subscribers.

And Finally... This Mooching Trip Is a Real Adventure by Don Lyle Editor Note: Subscriber Don Lyle has you can to make this trip a fly-oriented has some of the best north-Pacific fishing filed some very interesting and important one if you want. that I have experienced, and I go there as fly fishing reports over the years, and he am a fly fisherman, and I fish many often as I can. tells us he has fly fishing trips scheduled places in the world every year, but if Unlike most lodges in Canada and this year to the Brazilian Amazon, the II could only go on one trip each year Alaska, Charlotte Queen Adventures is Northwest Territories of Canada, Tan- there’s no question as to which one I’d not a land-based facility; it’s a mother zania, and Mexico. His all-time favorite pick: I’d go to Haida Gwaii with Char- ship operation based on a 104-foot tug trips, however, are the unguided, some- lotte Queen Adventures (www.charlotte- that has been refitted to accommodate 12 what edgy “mooching” trips he takes queenadventures.com). I’ll explain why anglers in comfort. There are six separate every year to Haida Gwaii, the former by telling you about my latest trip this rooms, each equipped with bathroom Queen Charlotte Islands off the coast past August with my daughter. and shower, plus a galley, a lounge, din- of British Columbia. If Don Lyle likes I left my home in California and ing tables, and crew quarters. A barge this trip enough to take it 25 times, we headed up to Vancouver, British Colum- snugged up to the stern serves as a dock figure a lot ofAngling Report subscrib- bia, the first stop on my latest trip to fish for the two-person fishing boats, as well ers might like it, despite it not being fly with Charlotte Queen Adventures (CQ) as a place to store fuel and equipment. It oriented. Enjoy! And be sure you read at Haida Gwaii. Previously known as the also serves as a fish-preparation area and Lyle’s note toward the end about ways Queen Charlotte Islands, Haida Gwaii helipad for bringing in guests and equip-

February 2016 -11- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT ment. This tugboat/barge combination is grounds, tie knots, bait hooks, and, of Haida Gwaii. Lunch was ready for us at double-anchored at the bow and secured course, mooch. . . . the airport, following which we boarded to the shore by two large hawsers. It is So, what is mooching? It’s a style of a Sikorsky S-76 helicopter operated by just far enough from the shore to dis- fishing that involves fairly light tackle. Helijet for a 20-minute flight to Nesto courage unwanted visitors such as the Nine-foot mooching rods are, in fact, Inlet, where we landed on the deck of black bears that are often seen here. quite similar to fly rods. And mooching the CQ barge. The flight over the island CQ is a self-guided operation. In- reels are direct-drive reels similar to fly is quite scenic and exciting, especially if struction on the operation of the boats, reels. I take my own level-wind reels and the ceiling is low and the chopper has to electronics, and supplied fishing gear is spool them with 20-pound mono. The fly at a low altitude along the shoreline, given upon arrival. Guests who have a main species you mooch for with CQ right over the water. difficult time are invited to go out with are chinook and coho salmon, but almost Our luggage was already in our a fishmaster for a half day for some per- everyone there catches various bottom rooms when we arrived, having been sonal counseling in boat handling, read- fish, too. flown out ahead of us on a freight heli- ing the fishfinder, and hooking and land- The way I mooch is to drop a jig or copter. On deplaning, we chatted with ing fish. Inter-boat radio communica- a cut-plug herring down through the wa- the departing guests about the fishing tions are frequent. If one boat is finding ter column while staying in contact with and reviewed the white board on the lots of bait and fish, the other boats soon the jig or bait: in other words, I keep my deck where the daily catch is tallied by know it and head that way. Bait balls are thumb on the reel so the offering isn’t the crew each time you return from fish- particularly prized; dropping a jig or her- just free-falling. It’s not at all unusual to ing. We then went into the lounge/salon ring through a bait ball is almost guaran- on the tug for snacks and welcome- teed to result in a hookup. aboard drinks and/or coffee. Following A fishmaster is on the water any the noisy departure of the helicopter car- time a CQ boat with guests is out. The rying the outgoing guests, we received fishmaster knows these waters intimately an orientation briefing about the ship, and is an expert on fishing for the target the amenities, the meals, and most im- species, namely, coho and chinook salm- portantly, the fish and fishing. We then on, plus various other lesser species. The went to our respective cabins, changed fishmaster boat is a custom-designed, into fishing togs, and proceeded to the 21-foot aluminum craft with an 8.5-foot “dry room” to put on supplied Mustang beam, driven by two 90 hp Honda mo- Survival suits and rubber boots. Back tors. The electronics on this boat are on the barge/boat dock the fishmaster quite sophisticated. The fishmaster, for conducted a short instructional “semi- example, has the ability to “ping” any nar” on knot-tying; handling the sup- boat to determine its precise location in get picked up by a salmon on the drop. plied fishing rods and reels; mooching the event of emergency or just in case the When that happens, you put the reel into techniques; and hooking, fighting, and boat hasn’t responded to repeated radio gear and reel up a bit. If the salmon has landing a fish, followed by personalized calls. taken the bait, you’ll get a bow in the instruction on the radio, chart plotter, and On one of my early trips I was talk- rod and you keep reeling. If the fish isn’t depth finder on board each boat. At that ing to the fishmaster about the operation. hooked, you work your bait up and down point, after informing the fishmaster of He said that the main thing that differen- a bit to try to tease him into hitting again. their intended destination, experienced tiated CQ from other similar operations It’s very much a contact sport, not at all hands headed off. All boats are required was the self-guided nature of the experi- like trolling, which just involves waiting to check in on arrival at their destination, ence. Most resorts in the area offer fully for fish to hook themselves. by the way, and if they decide to change guided trips, which means the clients sit At any rate, on the morning of Au- locations. in a boat while the guide drives, troll- gust 18, the group of us on this trip took The weather forecast that first day ing baits off downriggers. When they the shuttle from the Sheraton Vancouver wasn’t stellar. It called for a big swell get a hit, the fisherman grabs the rod (or Airport Hotel to the South Terminal of and for the wind to blow from time to it’s handed to him), and he reels in the Vancouver Airport. CQ has a check-in time. A big swell isn’t a problem as long fish. The guide then nets the fish and desk there where everyone checks their as the period is long (that is, there is a the fisherman returns to his seat. Rinse luggage, gets a fishing license if neces- substantial distance between swells), and repeat. New clients come to CQ sary, and receives a CQ hat and introduc- but wind isn’t fun. Six-foot seas with and some have never really caught a fish tory booklet. We then proceeded to board wind waves on top make for uncomfort- before. The challenge seems overwhelm- a twin-turboprop Pacific Coastal Airlines able fishing. If you haven’t fished the ing, but during the trip they learn to drive aircraft for the hour-and-40-minute flight north Pacific and seen these conditions the boat, find marked spots on the fishing to SandSpit Airport on Graham Island, you’d be forgiven for thinking that it’s

February 2016 -12- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT lunacy to fish in them, but the boats are cumb to the entrée, as well. The food tive chinook fishing grounds I have ever designed for it, and once you get over aboard the tug is superlative and both seen. You can limit on chinook on the being intimidated you hardly notice what the morning and evening chefs are art- first trip of the season in early June. You is going on. ists at their trade. You won’t go hungry can limit on chinook on the last trip in The custom-designed fishing boats here. Some people like to stay out on late August. And you can limit on all are all aluminum 18-footers with an the water all day. If you decide to do the trips in between. I have been there eight-foot beam, powered by 50 hp Hon- that and inform the ship, they’ll bring several times when the guests were com- da four-stroke outboards. They contain a lunch out to you, as well as fresh bait, if plaining that they couldn’t get down for huge amount of positive flotation foam needed. This is a full-service operation. bottom fish because a chinook would between dual hulls and are extremely As for the dinner schedule, late in the grab anything they put into the water on stable. I’ve occasionally gone out here in afternoon, the fishmaster calls each boat the way down: herring, a wad of herring, nine-foot seas. If there is not much wind, asking for their vote for a dinner meal- jigs, feathers, anything at all. That’s a there’s no problem. The sea conditions time. A consensus forms and the galley quality problem to have. This is also the are usually much better than that. is informed to be prepared for dinner at best lingcod fishery I’ve ever seen and a We got out to fish that first day that time, normally sometime between 8 terrific yelloweye fishery. Ten-pounders about 3 PM, tagging along with a pair and 8:30 PM. are pretty common. On top of that, new of newbies on the fishmaster boat. I On this last trip, our group was regulations are turning the area into an never expect to catch very much that not blessed with calm weather. In fact, excellent halibut fishery, something it first afternoon, as everyone is still get- weather-wise, it was one of the worst of hasn’t been in the past. What a place! ting accustomed at that point to the boat the 25 trips I’ve made to Haida Gwaii. If you absolutely must get in some and gear. We headed out to a productive fly fishing on this trip, there are abundant area about 15 minutes from the ship black bass that will readily take a baitfish and began to fish. We were experienc- imitation streamer fished off an interme- ing seas of seven or eight feet with a diate sink-tip line. In August, when the 10-knot wind, making the drift difficult. coho are in, it can be productive to fish I focused on keeping the boat angled streamers for these fish near the kelp properly (at least that’s my excuse) and beds around Hippa Island. Black bass only caught one coho that afternoon, frequent these same areas. while my daughter landed two cohos and This report wouldn’t be complete a 24-pound chinook. None of the other without a word about the CQ crew. The boats did even that well. A fairly typical operations manager, Laura, is about five first afternoon. foot nothing, has a bubbly personal- The next day we got out on the ity, and is one of the most enthusiastic water at 6:30 AM, about the earliest pos- people I’ve ever met. She is also an sible this late in the summer. The seas Nevertheless, everyone caught fish. Even exceptionally skilled fisherwoman. It’s were still high but the wind was down the newbies were holding their own be- really impressive seeing that little person somewhat, so it was much easier to fish. fore the trip was over; it was a newbie charging around on the fishmaster boat, Everyone caught fish, with my boat who landed the big salmon of the trip, a harpooning or gaffing huge fish, driving keeping a daily limit of four chinook 30-pound chinook. The biggest halibut the boat, clearing lines, and smiling or and four cohos, along with five lingcod, weighed in at 54 pounds, respectable un- laughing all the while. The other fish- four yelloweye, and three miscellaneous der British Columbia’s new regulations master, Rob, is more stolid, but he can rockfish. The newbies fishing on their that require the release of any halibut certainly bring the fish aboard and is an own landed four coho, one lingcod, and over 52 inches. Clearly, the new regula- excellent source of information. The en- one yelloweye. tions are working, as I see more halibut gineer, Mark, can fix any problem and is I always come back to the ship at being caught every year. I probably re- the resident marine biologist. The chefs, about 11:30 AM for lunch and a brief leased more than a dozen halibut over 30 Marty and Dave, make every meal a nap. The morning chef always has a pounds on this trip and lots and lots of delight. The back-deck crew, Nando and salad of some variety, a homemade soup, smaller ones. I fought and thankfully lost Dillon, keep your boat shiny and your and another entrée such as meat lasagna. one that would have gone 150 pounds. catch properly handled, and the hostess, I look forward to the soups, which are The Hippa Island area where the LP, keeps everything aboard shipshape, wonderful. Unfortunately, I often suc- CQ tug is anchored is the most produc- and does it with a bright smile.

Back of the Book All items in this section are paid advertisements. Ads cost $1.50 per word. They are published as a reader service. For more details on our ad rates and policies, contact Mike Lyons, The Angling Report, 4431 Greenwich Parkway, Washington, DC 20007 Tel: 202-770-9942. E-mail: [email protected].

February 2016 -13- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

The Best of New Zealand CUBAN FLY FISHERS Fly Fishing Your dream just came true... CUBA IS OPEN AT LAST! For more than 20 years, we have specialized exclusively in New The new pristine destination for Bonefish, Permit Zealand fishing and travel. Fly Contact Information and Tarpon. Come before everyone comes! We are fishing is our central focus, but MikeMcClelland the top agency for Fly Fishing in Cuba since 2000 we are experts in many other Tel.: 800-528-6129 and we will take great care of you. Ask us about activities available in New Zealand. legal visits for US travelers to Cuba. We create exclusive fishingE-mail: [email protected] programs, as well as sightseeing www.BestofNZflyfishing.com Contact Information and other nature-based activities. [email protected] Call for a brochure or visit New www.cubawelcome.com Zealand’s most exciting fishing site. Offices in UK and Havana /License # ATOL 6547

You could spend two days flying halfway around the world and possibly land a six pound trout, or…. You could experience World Class fishing in central Pennsylvania at:

Call us to learn more about our Guided Fishing Packages and NEW low cost, Escape Memberships

For more information, contact Mike Harpster (814) 686-6214 / visit www.homewatersclub.com

Fish Mongolia and Mongolia River Outfitters

The Guides for Ghengis Khan’s Home Waters...

fishmongolia.com mongoliarivers.com [email protected] +1.406.586.8137

February 2016 -14- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

February 2016 -15- Volume 29, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT

Fly Fish for Redfish FLY FISH Native New Orleans Year-Round NEW ZEALAND Fly Fishing! Award winning, ORVIS Endorsed, Stone- Louisiana’s rich waterways provide the Specializing in fly fishing, fly Lodge in the South Island is locat- perfect environment for enormous catch and release. Accom- ed in the heart of brown trout heaven! redfish, black drum, sheepshead and modations for up 4WD to dozens of wild crystal clear riv- jack crevalle. to eight guests. ers or heli-fish to pristine remote back- country streams with our expert guides. • Captain Kenny Ensminger • Six flats boats running. • Tel: 504-427-8396 • • Capt. Gregg Arnold • • E-mail: [email protected] • [email protected] • www.nativeneworleansflyfishing. • 504-237-6742 • www.stoneflylodge.co.nz com • • www.Laredfish.com•

Fourth-generation guides. Thirty-six years in business in Alaska and 23 years in Kamchatka, Russia. Rafting and Fishing — Wild and Scenic Rivers.

Ouzel Expeditions Incorporated Paul and Sharon Allred P.O. Box 935, Girdwood, AK 99587 800-825-8196, www.ouzel.com, E-mail: [email protected]

February 2016 -16- Volume 29, Number 2