2 Behind the steering wheel: singer Aung La

By Nuam Bawi and Aye Nyein Win

When he was barely a happy that he drove it all teenager in 7th Standard, over the city. Aung La – the front man He never uses a driver, of the band The Reason - he said, even when he has learned how to drive. to travel to other cities - he “My first car was a 1986 prefers to be in the steering Honda Accord,” said Aung wheel. La, whose pop-rock album Aung La said he dreams “Mar Tih Kar” (Content) of owning many cars in the recently broke through. future or at least regularly “I bought that car changing models. according to how much I For the moment, he is could afford at the time, but satisfied with altering its the car was so worn out that interior and decorating the I had to keep taking it to a outside of his car. workshop,” he said. “I did the Photoshop “Although that design for this car myself disappointed me a lot, in and printed out the sticker the end I still made a profit for the shop,” he said. when I sold it.” “I do that once every six Sometimes, he said, he months … for now at least I even had to repair his car can ride this car with a new on the way to his own show. outfit,” he grinned. “The car would break Aung La’s preference is down in the middle of the for luxurious cars rather street and I had to repair it than sports cars. However, on my way to the concert.” his true dream car – and The car Aung La currently the one he feels best owns is a 2002 Toyota matches his personality Altezza, which he bought - is a Dodge Challenger, from his friend in 2011. mostly because of its big He chose it, he said, engine. because he could afford “I could even race it and because he wanted [that] car if I wanted to,” a car that stood out in he said. . “I think its design really When the car arrived, suits a rocker.” Aung La said he was so

Aung La redesigns the outside of his car every six months. Pic: Thiri Lu

A Times Wheels 2013 Special Report Editors: Photographers: Myo Lwin, Jessica Mudditt Kaung Htet, Ko Taik, Aung Htay Hlaing, Boothee, Maria Danmark, Thiri Lu Writers: Yu Yu Maw, Shwegu Thitsar, Aye Nyein Win, Shwe Yee Saw Myint, Myo Lwin, Jessica Mudditt, Douglas Long, Maria Cover & Layout Design: Danmark, Htar Htar Khin, Cherry Thein, Shwegu Thitsar, Nandar Tin Zaw Htway, Ko Pxyo Aung, Nuam Bawi, Myat Nyein Aye For enquiries and feedback: Cover photo: Ko Taik. [email protected] Model: Pyi Phyo [email protected] Our thanks go to the owner of the 1969 Holden Premier, Nyan Minn, who kindly lent us his car for the James Dean-inspired cover shoot. 3 Creating cute car nicknames

substitute for lengthy Yangon under protest. explained U Nyein Chan. phapyouk (frog) for the popular cars, the Chery QQ, makes and models that Several dealers and Since the models began 2000 Toyota Corolla Mark-ii boasts the most nicknames, By can be difficult to read or brokers said that cars are arriving in Myanmar around or 1999 Mitsubishi Pajero with various models known Myo Lwin pronounce. given simple Myanmar 2005, they have been referred respectively, the glossary as the ah-loo (potato), set- The Myanmar words for names for the convenience to as “parrots” (Kyet-tu-yway). of names has expanded pya-khwat (soap dish), ja-poe gold fish, frog, cow, rat and of all involved in the multi- Although a taxi driver due to the influx of new (bug) or kywet (the rather elephant head are just a million dollar industry when called Tony Myo told The vehicles into Yangon after unflattering rat). THE arrival of tens of few of the creative names they roll off their shipping Myanmar Times that the the government announced Suzuki wagon cargo light thousands of imported cars that have originated from containers into the country, nicknames are not used by its replacement scheme for trucks are called Wat gaung hasn’t only given rise to more Hanthawaddy Car Trading with most coming from the general public but are outdated cars back in 2011. (pig heads) because they look traffic on Yangon’s streets. compound, Myanmar’s Japan. created by car salespeople Ko Min Min, who has like the head of a pig, said U A slew of new nicknames biggest car market which last “The head of [1998-1999 with weak skills in reading spent 20 years working in car Nyein Chan. have entered Myanmar’s car month was relocated to Min Toyota Caldinas] look like English, a car dealer said he yards, said there are at least Khway gaung (dog head) market lexicon, with brokers Ye Kyaw Swa compound in a bird perched on a tree,” recently heard a government 20 well-known nicknames for refers to 1988-1989 Toyota coming up with simplified minister using a nickname to imported cars. Coronas. They are not to be names as a refer to a car. The 2006 and 2007 Nissan confused with the 1992 and Along with shwe- Ad Van is known as nwar tha- 1995 Toyota Coronas known nga (goldfish) pauk (baby cow), while the as sin gaung (elephant or 2001 Toyota Caldina is set- head). yoke (robot). The 2000 Toyota Old model Volkswagens Town Ace light truck is have three names, depending a pa-zin gaung on the size of their rear lights (grasshopper). – there is the large sin-khwa One of (elephant foot), the mid-sized Yangon’s myin-Khwa (horse foot) and most the small sait-khwa (goat foot). But four cars that have recently become popular in Myanmar, the Toyota Vitz, Honda Fit, Toyota Belta and Suzuki Swift, have missed out on nicknames. Car dealers say that it is because the names are already simple The cow - a.k.a Nissan AD station wagon. Pic: Ko Taik enough themselves. 4

Beat on the street: Are Yangon’s By Shwegu Thitsar traffic jams driving you crazy? and Yu Yu Maw

Ma Ohnmar May Maung, 18, resident of

“I study chemistry at East Yangon University in Tarwa and it normally takes me 45 minutes to an hour to get there from home, and it takes three hours to get downtown from university. I face traffic jams everyday; mostly at Bridge because it is a very narrow road which allows just one car to pass at a time. If a car or bus breaks down on the bridge, passengers have to wait about 15 minutes to get past – and no one jumps out to help move the vehicles out of the way. I can’t understand it. I see these kinds of things everywhere in Yangon – it drives me crazy. Taking the train is also a waste of time. I don’t think there are enough bus lines or buses. On my way to and from school I feel so uncomfortable because the buses are so crowded and the roads are rough. I hope the government or private sector will increase the number of buses on the roads as well as introducing more comfortable buses.”

U Mg Mg Htwe, 45, a taxi driver from

“I’ve been driving a taxi for 10 years and up until two years ago my business was really good because there weren’t huge traffic jams. Serious trouble for taxi drivers began in the middle of last year, particularly at Hledan, Shwe Gone Taing and Tamwe townships. Another bad place for traffic jams is Inya Road, because it’s affected by Hledan. Time is very important to taxi drivers – but we are wasting it at traffic jams. How can I make money as a taxi driver? I change my route to avoid Hledan, Shwe Gone Taing, which means covering a longer distance and I need to ask for a higher fare, which passengers dislike. In the downtown area, the lack of car parking creates traffic jams. Sometimes I can’t stop myself from shouting out in anger while driving around there. I know the municipal authorities are in the process of creating more space for parked cars, but there are still roadside stalls in car parking spaces. I think it’s disgusting! I hope the traffic jams will lessen after the Hledan overpass is finished - I just hope the traffic jams don’t move elsewhere. And I don’t know why the project at Shwe Gone Taing hasn’t started yet.”

Daw Yin Yin Mon, 32, an accountant from

“I’m amazed by how much road conditions have improved since last year. The change happened so quickly. But everyone, everywhere, faces traffic jams now. It takes me 90 minutes to travel from home to downtown. I want to cry out on the bus because it takes at least 20 minutes to pass through an intersection. Every morning, I see huge queues of buses and cars in Hledan, starting from Tadarphyu bus stop (which is three bus stops away from Hledan intersection). And sometimes I see girls and women getting dizzy and fainting because they can’t stand up on such crowded, hot buses for a long time. Buses are very crowded during peak hours. Even if I take a taxi, there’s no escaping the traffic jams. I try to keep my mind strong by talking and laughing, but the need to reach my office on time stresses me out. If I am late, the owner will dock my pay. Traffic problems aren’t considered a valid excuse for arriving late! Along with my work responsibilities, I also have a baby to care for and a house to keep in order. I start work at 9am so I have to leave home at 7:30am to get to my office on time. I am so disappointed by the impact traffic now has on my life.”

Ma Yemon, 23, a reporter

“I was spending K800 every day on bus fares, so I moved from South Dagon to 46th Street be closer to my office downtown. South Dagon was really far away and the Number 39 special bus wasn’t available, so I had to take two buses to reach work and it took me one-and-a-half-hours. After comparing the cost of moving to a hostel downtown and the bus fees, I decided to relocate. The most annoying part of commuting is that the old and small Dina model buses never stop at the same place, even though it’s meant to stop at the bus stop - it’s really time-consuming. Another thing is that some dishonest people on the Dina buses harass female passengers and it makes me crazy. I wish the Dina bus didn’t exist.”

Ma Pan Ei Phyu, 18, a chemistry student at East Yangon University and a resident of Thaketa township

“I have to take two buses to reach to my university and the roundtrip fares cost K600 a day. I took the ferry in the past but it took longer so I switched to the bus. During university holidays I attend computer classes in Myaynigone, which costs K300 for the round trip. There are constant traffic jams at intersections in Myaynigone. One day, the bus I was on broke down and we weren’t offered a refund on our tickets. I think that was unusual though. When we got off the bus, it was so crowded that other buses weren’t stopping and so I had to take a taxi. But I arrived late and missed my practical class. I’ll never forget that.” 5 Lifting the lid on imported cars

By Nandar Aung and Myo Lwin

ONE of the most significant pointing the finger at the transformations in Yangon instability of government during the past year is the policies concerning emergence of a staggering imports. Car sales dropped number of car showrooms, significantly during car yards and of course the October, November and unprecedented range of December 2012 following a newer models on the streets. government announcement More than 100,000 that changes would be vehicles have been made to insurance and imported since the freight costs in 2013. government launched the In January, the car substitution scheme government allowed cars in September 2011, which made between 1998 and allowed older cars to 2008 to be imported – in be replaced with newer 2012, car imports were models. In July 2012, restricted to models made permission was given to between 1997 and 2007. individuals wishing to “This caused the prices import the latest models. of second hand Japanese According to Farmer cars to increase a little - Auto car sales centre, there that’s why 2007 and 2008 are an estimated 200 sales models were strong sellers centres in Yangon, the in March. Our company majority of which continue also saw sales gain strength, to sell second-hand cars. with an average of 10 cars A handful of showrooms sold every day. Car prices offer four or five brand new also rose by an average of models. K2 million ($2273),” said Dr The size of the average Soe Tun. Sakura car showroom in Yangon. Pic: Boothee car yard varies from 30 It normally takes a to 300 vehicles. Japanese month for an individual to brands such as Toyota, Honda, Nissan and Suzuki regulation, those who continue to dominate the “only 10 percent of people who open an submitted their old cars market. for substitution can import Chief executive officer of models between 1998 and the Farmer Auto Car Sales account with a foreign currency bank are 2008, but nothing newer. So Centre, Dr Soe Tun told The if a person wants a newer Myanmar Times: genuine importers.” model, they can sell their “We’ve heard that certain permit at the black market foreign car companies price and apply to the are preparing to open complete the formalities was quoted as saying in Entrepreneurial dealers importers. government to import a more showrooms in Yangon. necessary to import a the March edition of B to B hired locals to act as proxies “In light of this reality, recent model as an individual That’s good for customers, 2008 model (or newer) Management Magazine. by opening an account the government should importer. There shouldn’t because it will increase from Japan. Many people In July 2012 the and receiving a payment of allow commercial entities be such a thing as limiting competition. At the prefer to speed up the government announced that K30,000 to K40,000 from the to import cars directly so the models and fixing the moment, showrooms are process by buying from a anyone 18 years or older with car company. that we can cut out the price for old car import only allowed to import a showroom under the name a national identity card could U Htay Aung estimates middle man. Unfortunately, permits. There will soon be car if they can present a of the original importer. open a foreign exchange that only 10 percent of requests for permission foreign companies entering legal document stating that Despite the risks, many account at a bank and people who open an continue to be declined,” U Myanmar and the regulations the car is being imported are content to forgo legal import a car made in 2007 or account with a foreign Htay Aung said. should not hurt local traders,” to replace an older vehicle. documentation proving more recently. currency bank are genuine “Under the current U Nyi Nyi Zaw said. Models are limited to those ownership because it manufactured between involves an additional cost 1998 and 2008,” Dr Soe Tun of K1 million ($1136) to said. apply for registration. Although the government “Car companies in gave the green light in July Myanmar face many 2012 to allow individuals difficulties. Firstly, a to import cars models company has to deposit from 2007 (or newer), it did US$100,000 with the extend the same rights to government and provide retailers. a surety of K300 million “Sales centres get around (US$341,000). Then there not being allowed to import are annual fees of $900. cars made after 2007 by Obviously this is all very buying cars privately from costly. There are too many owners in Yangon,” Dr restrictions and rules,” SoeTun said. said U Htay Aung, the “In other countries, chairperson of Myanmar anyone can buy an Motor Manufacturers and imported car. We should Traders Association. consider this as an option “We can only sell cars – it would help both buyers that fall within the old- and sellers because the for-new car substitution entire process would be scheme. We can’t sell any more straightforward,” Dr other cars. Some of the old Soe Tun added. car owners came to us to Car importers and sales order a new car from Japan centres in Myanmar are via our office,” U HtayAung 6 Ban on motorbikes lingers

By Shwe Yee Saw Myint

THERE are a number of rumours about why motorcycles were banned in Yangon in 2003, as well as mumblings that change is on the horizon. One version about the ban is that a person on a motorbike made a threatening gesture to a military general; another is that a motorbike rider distributed pro-democracy leaflets, and the third is that a general’s son was killed while riding a motorbike. There are no doubt others also. Unfortunately for motorbike enthusiasts and those who believe that the reintroduction of motorbikes would do wonders for traffic congestion, there are no plans to lift the ban any time soon. U Myo Lwin, deputy director of the Road and Bridges Department of Yangon City Development Would you like a fine with that? A courier Committee told The Myanmar Times that the rule will continue takes a chance in Yangon. Pic: Boothee indefinitely, while an officer from Yangon traffic police department, Ko Moe, 24, lives in north Only government-related he also added that buses are include post and electricity who did wish to provide his name, , which allows officials may use motorcycles responsible for a large number workers. According to a 2008 said motorcyclists were involved motorbikes in specific areas, said in the Yangon municipal area. of injuries and conceded that a Myanmar Times report, “Only in many accidents and criminal the bus is slow, uncomfortable They are not allowed to carry motorcycle taxi service would government-related officials may activity before the ban was and not worth the money. So he passengers and must wear be an affordable and convenient use motorcycles in the Yangon introduced in municipal Yangon. bought a motorcycle and rides motorbike helmets. Nor may option for many city dwellers. municipal area. They are not In fact, the authorities appear it around his locality. He said he motorcyclists from out of town The traffic police official said allowed to carry passengers and more determined than ever to considers himself lucky not to ride their bikes into Yangon. that two people die every day in must wear helmets.” penalise those who breach the have been caught once in the last An editor of a publishing house motorbike accidents, and that The officer conceded that the rule. According to a spokesperson two years – his uncle was and paid from East Dagon township said he numbers would spike if the ban ban on motorbikes is not being from the traffic a 20,000 kyat fine. The penalty for doesn’t want to see motorcycles was lifted. effectively enforced due to a lack police department, motorcycles not wearing a helmet is K10,000. re-introduced, because he is Some may therefore be of human resources. And despite are being confiscated by police if Many motorbike owners are already concerned about the surprised to see police riding the recent crackdown, sales of they are being ridden in a banned also reluctant to pay registration dangers motorcycles pose to the motorbikes around Yangon – it motorbikes continue to rise and area. In 2012, more than 800 fees of K50,000 to their local traffic public. He said that he often sees is known that 65 motorcycles they remain the most popular motorcycle riders were fined for police station, so they opt to risk motorcyclists without helmets are used by police to carry out form of transport across the riding in restricted areas. paying a fine of K50,000 if caught. and driving unsafely. However their duties. Other exceptions country. Flyovers top priority for easing congestion

K14.487 billion (US$16.46 Ko Soe Wunna, general Hledan overpass is due to be million) with a completion manager of Shining Star By completed by March. Pic: Boothee date scheduled for the end Real Estate agency in Htar Htar Khin of March. Ahlone township, said that Daw Yin Yin Tun, 48, who he also believed that the lives on Hledan road and flyover would be a positive own a monk robe shop, for the area. DEVELOPERS are confident said the completion of the “This is a big overpass that the Hledan flyover Hledan overpass will be a which will benefit the area can help put an end to welcome relief. as a whole. It will create a traffic woes at the severely “I see so much traffic commercially vibrant area,” congested intersection. at Hledan junction at the he said. A spokesperson for moment. The congestion “I expect that traffic Shwe Taung Development causes lengthy delays,” she along Yangon-Pyi road will Company, which is said. be reduced due to flyover building the Hledan Daw Yin Yin Tun said access.” flyover, said the flyover that she believes the Though Ko Soe Wunna will greatly reduce traffic increase in car imports is optimistic, he said volume. over the past three years is that more needs to be According to a December responsible for the increase done once the flyover is 2011 traffic survey in traffic, which has in turn complete. undertaken by Vertix hurt her business. “To ease traffic there Asia Pacific Pte. Ltd of “That’s why the traffic needs to be a car park in Singapore and Shwe Taung conditions are quite the junction area. Hledan Development, the overpass serious and sometimes Centre will open and could cut congestion by as accidents occur. There are the former Pyi Myanmar much as 40 percent. for the purpose of traffic “We hope that the journey due to flyover also fewer parking spaces, Department Store building “The building of the clearance and to ease vehicles passing along access,” he added. which means fewer buyers will be refurbished, so overpass has advantages. traffic congestion,” the Yangon and Pyi Road The 2507 foot long come to the shop. Sales are parking spaces are needed We’re building the overpass spokesperson said. will benefit from a faster flyover is budgeted to cost down,” she said. as well,” he said. 7 The “death” of the iconic Myanmar Jeep

By overseas equivalent cost K10 million. Aye Nyein Win , former producer of Myanmar Jeep said that we could not compete with Japan Auto because they It was a car made famous are more quality and price by the Thingyan Festival: is cheaper then Myanmar the Myanmar Jeep. Every Jeep. year, hordes of young He added, “There is no men and women would demand dress themselves up and for pack themselves into their Myanmar-made Jeeps to make their way from stage to stage around town. Getting drenched by fire hose with the top down as water poured through the open air vehicles was the way to go during the famous water festival in April, and some would even pay as much as K500,000 a day for the experience. But times in Myanmar have changed, and this Always a classic standards in Myanmar are they can repair them year, it might not be a - the Myanmar as high as Japan’s, so I can themselves. Myanmar-made Jeep that understand why sales have There are about 25 stops in front of those Jeep. Pic: Ko Taik pretty much come to a different Myanmar-made booming stages. It’s more standstill,” he said. jeeps, the most famous likely to be a jeep made in Myanmar Jeeps so people prefer the superior during the water festival. U Win Min Naing said of which is the Shan Jeep, Japan, such as a Toyota, manufacturers have slowed quality of a Japanese- Myanmar Jeeps can also that many owners are so which is made in Taung Suzuki, or Honda. down factory work. When made jeep. A second-hand drive well on rough roads familiar with their cars’ Gyi and Mongtong. Others Throughout its we import the spare parts Myanmar Jeep can cost as and I like that it runs on simply structured engine include the Dagon Jeep, existence, the company needed to assemble a little as K2.5 million.” diesel. That said, I don’t – some of which were Myaing Jeep, Tila Jeep and that made the Myanmar Myanmar Jeep, such as the This is a fraction of what think manufacturing made in the 1940s – that the Honour Jeep. Jeep produced 25 different body, bumper, roof and the popular Yangon Jeep kinds of vehicles. The seats, the total cost for us is used to be worth – around former owner of the more than K 10million.” K16 million. company, U Win Min But the Jeep crazy However locally Naing, said his company owners are till driving made jeeps are still are closed and the business Myanmar Jeep so Myanmar a common sight on the died a swift death in Jeeps are not disappearing streets, and an unofficial late 2011 after nearly 12 yet in local car field. Thus fan club is alive and well. years of operation, The why second hand Jeeps Ko Thaung Htut Aung reason, he said, was the have been demand until from North Dagon said he government’s decision to now, he told the Myanmar loves the Myanmar Jeep loosen the import laws Times. and bought his first one on cars. Competition was U Aung Than Win, an three years ago, which was fierce because locally experienced car broker, manufactured by Aung Ka manufactured jeeps are told The Myanmar Times Bar Car factory in Yangon costlier than imported that: “In the past it difficult Region. He paid K5.1 ones. to impossible for most million. A new Myanmar Jeep people to buy an imported “I think my jeep is used to sell for more than car, so our local jeeps were really stylish and I always K15million, whereas the really popular. Now most dreamed of having my own 8

One of Bilu Kyun Island's pony and carts. Pic: Maria Danmark Bilu Kyun Island in : a transport time warp

foreigners aren’t permitted to They started out with two locals sought to enter the trade form of transport to customers. By stay on the island (which is ponies and a cart that they after losing their jobs in the “But I seldom use it,” he said. also known as “Ogre Island”) bought in Mawlamyine, the island’s limited job sectors. “I actually prefer to travel with Maria Danmark overnight, it’s more convenient capital of Mon State. U Soe Min Tun said that he the ponies. This is partly because to show tourists around the “It was very hard in the leads about five tours a day and I can carry more passengers, but 64 villages using motorised beginning, because we had no the number of horse-drawn carts also because I am attached to THERE aren’t any cars on Mon transport. The downside is that idea about how to run a business is now 25. the ponies,” he explained. State’s Bilu Kyun Island. Locals like in many other parts of rural or train ponies. The training was But despite the increase in U Soe Min Tun doesn’t believe get around in horse-drawn Myanmar, the nostalgic charm actually the hardest part,” U Soe passenger numbers, he still feels that cars will appear on the carts, motorbikes, tuk-tuks or has been usurped by modernity. Min Tun said. the pinch of competition. island any time soon. the occasional bus. In fact, until However in the village of He explained that he had no “We earned more in the past “If this were to happen, it very recently, it was the Bronze Kalwi, where tuk-tuks are idea how tough it would be to than we do. We make about would have to be little by little. Age invention, the horse-drawn The roads are in such bad shape vehicle, that was the most – even for driving a pony and common form of transportation “We have enough transport on the cart.” for the island’s 200,000 At this point Mr Anthony inhabitants. quipped, “Myanmar is a holy According to Lonely Planet island. We don’t need cars…” country, because of all the holes Myanmar (2011) “on the island, in the roads.” all local transport is by horse prohibited, it appears that train the ponies and said that K8000 a day, which isn’t always Although there are plans to and cart, though the more horse-drawn carts outnumber the early days with passengers enough to meet my family’s improve the roads within three distant villages can be linked by motorbikes – though it could were “horrible,” because neither needs,” U Soe Min Tun said. or four months, there has been one of the few rattling buses.” also simply be a matter of time he nor the ponies knew how to The family had also been no announcement that the ban According to Mr Anthony, a before this changes. Cars remain send and receive instructions, relying on the money sent on cars will be relaxed. guide based in Mawlamyine, prohibited throughout the island such as tugging on the reins to from U Soe Min Tun’s sisters in “We have enough transport on motorbikes and tuk-tuks began and tuk-tuks are only permitted stop. Singapore – one of whom left a the island. We don’t need cars,” to appear on the island two years in Nut-Maw, where the ferry U Soe Min Tun is now an child behind in Bilu Kyun Island. said U Soe Min Tun. ago. In that short space of time, from Mawlamyine arrives. expert and has even built his However he said that the family However he added that he and it is these latter types of vehicles U Soe Min Tun lives in Kalwi own carts. has been forced to cut down on his brother would be interested that now greet passengers and has been involved in the When the brothers started their expenses because his other in buying a car if ever there was disembarking the ferry at the family’s pony-cart business their business there were only sister is now married and has an opportunity to do so. village of Nut-Maw. The pony for a decade. After his father four other competitors in his stopped sending money. But he added firmly: “But no carts are all but disappearing, immigrated to Thailand to find a village. The pony-cart business U Soe Min Tun and his brother matter what, we would definitely Mr Anthony said. job, U Soe Min Tun and his older expanded over time as an have therefore tried to diversify keep our ponies because they As a guide, he views the brother set up the business as a increasing number of tourists by investing in a motorbike so have sort of become part of the change pragmatically. Because means of supporting their family. began to visit the island and that they can offer a speedier family,” he added. 9 Bus driver behaviour set to change “It’s not sensible to keep in place a system of awarding By fines to drivers for falling below Aye Nyein Win acceptable service standards – they just repeat the behaviour the following day. We need to rethink how disciplinary action Bus drivers in Yangon are being works.” offered “a reorientation course” The complaint which to improve their personal skills arises the most often is about with customers as well as driving overcharging passengers by not and safety standards. The giving change. measure was decided recently “The conductor may claim he after several years of complaints has no small notes or pretend from customers about poor to forget to do so – most notably, service on private bus lines. they do not give change if K100 The committee overseeing is paid for K50-portion of the Yangon’s network of more bus route,” said U Ba Myint. than 350 private bus lines is “Passengers lodge complaints known as the Mahtatha, and its quite often.” leaders are offering the course To address this problem, to drivers who have served for the Central Bank exchanges more than two years, or who about K15 million in large have not undertaken a basic denominations for smaller ones course, said U Ba Myint, the each week. U Ba Myint said. committee’s secretary. The In the past, Mahtatha course will include traffic rules employees often went to the and regulations as well as a pagoda to get change. mandatory psychological test. “Conductors should behave The bus drivers and politely towards passengers, conductors currently employed and passengers should prove have already passed the test, U “Changing mindsets is of prime to be good passengers. Only Ba Myint said. if everybody behaves well will “Changing mindsets is of prime importance” change really take place,” U Ba importance,” U Ba Myint said. Myint said. 2.5 million rely on Yangon’s ageing bus system

There are many challenges owner, as the profitability with the current system, of some lines isn’t as high as By he said, but the biggest others. Aye Nyein Win hindrance at the moment is “It is hard to say who the a shortage of vehicles and best is: the number 48 line the fact that 2000 buses are is said to be good but the out of operation. bus owners want to shift to THE roadways in Yangon The buses in service are another line because the may be more crowded frequently overloaded and situation is not beneficial to than ever with private cars, thus prone to wear and tear. them,” U Ba Myint said. but more than 2.5 million It is not unusual to see buses The income private people still depend on the so packed with passengers companies make from the city’s network of privately- that some people are buses varies according to the owned buses – most of literally hanging out the type of vehicle. For example, which are overcrowded and sides, especially during the a special bus on the Parami in poor condition. Some morning and evening rush Line earns K70,000 a day date back to World War II. hours, he added. for the company, while an Pic: Myanmar Times archive Tasked with monitoring The “special” buses are ordinary bus earns just the existing system is the the most popular with K40,000 a day, he said. Bus companies are K10,000 a day. and South District, U Ba Mahtatha, translated as customers because although Passengers on the special also required to pay the Operation costs may be Myint said. The bus lines the “all-private bus line the fare is slightly higher, buses pay, on average, K200 Mahtatha about two percent one reason for Mahtatha’s supervisory committee control committee”. The the buses are not allowed per trip, but the majority of of their daily income, fees. Yangon’s bus lines oversees the committees committee oversees an to become overcrowded. bus fees range from K50 to while the bus driver and are supervised by 17 with 65 people. estimated 395 bus lines with However U Ba Myint K300 per trip. There is no conductors must pay 1pc committees staffed by “A concerted approach 4000 passenger buses in use acknowledged that what plan to change the present of their income. Bus drivers more than 2700 people, is needed to improve our every day, said U Ba Myint, works for the customer does fare schedule for bus lines, U and conductors on private including an East District, public transportation secretary of the committee. not always work for the Ba Myint said. lines earn between K8,000 to West District, North District system,” he said. 10 Cycling Yangon’s gridlock apocalypse

pedal power. By In short, if you encourage cycling, more people will Douglas Long cycle; and if more people cycle, the roads will be less congested. ONE of the great advantages Smart Growth America, of cycling in Yangon is a national coalition of the fact that you’re not organisations dedicated to delayed by the increasingly improving living standards problematic traffic and in US cities, writes on its congestion. website that “designing But cycling also makes you streets only for automobiles more vulnerable to the root reduces opportunities for causes of that congestion: safe travel choices that can not only the growing number ease traffic congestion: of cars on the road, but walking, bicycling and taking also the astoundingly rude, public transportation.” ego-centric driving habits of One common method of many of the city’s residents. getting people out if their The general philosophy cars is integrating dedicated among many drivers in bike lanes into urban Yangon seems to be that planning. it’s okay to do whatever is A study of 90 of the 100 necessary to shave three biggest cities in the US by seconds off your own driving researchers Ralph Buehler time, even if that means and John Pucher, published putting lives in danger, in July 2011, found that delaying everyone else, and “cities with a greater supply contributing to the traffic of bike paths and lanes chaos for 500 metres in every have significantly higher direction. bike commute rates”. Other The city’s traffic police studies have found that are all but useless in solving the presence of bike lanes these problems: A few reduces traffic congestion seem to be on the ball, but and actually provides an most operate under the economic boost to business impression that standing districts through which bike on the corner and wailing lanes pass. away on their whistles will Unfortunately, the somehow magically dissolve Yangon Traffic Police and the gridlock. In reality, all this Yangon City Development does is create noise pollution Committee (YCDC) are not and make the cops look lazy. among the enlightened in Many city planners this regard. They have always around the globe have taken a backward approach That’s exactly what the Loop Road. Street on the south, and from growing worse in Yangon, discovered that bicycle riding to cycling in Yangon, and Yangon Traffic Police did The downtown area Phone Gyi on the west to has this attitude changed? not only allows individuals continue to do so. on July 5, 2003, when they would be a logical place to Bo Aung Kyaw Street on the Not one bit. One YCDC to beat congestion, but can Too much congestion? announced that certain encourage people to get out east. (Oddly, the downtown spokesperson told The also be a means of reducing Why, let’s ban bicycles and “busy roads” would be closed of their cars, but instead the restrictions are in effect from Myanmar Times earlier this the congestion itself – if force more people to rely to bicycles, namely Pyay police banned bikes from a 5am to 11pm, while the month that there was no concerted efforts are made on motorised transport in Road, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, big chunk of the grid: from “uptown” roads are closed 24 special plan to accommodate to urge more people to get precisely those areas where U Wisara Road, University Bogyoke Aung San on the hours a day.) cyclists in Yangon because out of their cars and rely on the problem is at its worst. Avenue and Kandawgyi Park north (inclusive) to Merchant With traffic congestion “Yangon is not a bicycle city like Mandalay”. Let’s apply this mind- blowing logic to another sector: Patient: Doctor, what plan do you have for operating on my cancerous tumor? Doctor: I have no plan to operate on your cancerous tumor because you already have a cancerous tumor! Patient: Whaaaaaaah?!?!?!?!? Another YCDC official, Department of Engineering (Roads and Bridges) deputy director U Myo Min, said there was no plan to include cyclists in the traffic plans “for at least the next three years”. “We are improving the standard of roads in the city but it is not sure for bicycles. We are not sure about including special lanes for bicycles,” he said. A preferable alternative to city cycling. One gets the distinct Douglas Long on his bike near Hpa-an. impression, upon hearing this supremely wishy-washy Pic: Aung Htay Hlaing response, that bicycles are nowhere close to becoming 11

Five cycling tips for dealing with traffic madness

1. Wear a helmet: Helmets can be expensive, it forces drivers to give me more space, and but if you can afford to buy one, there it gives me more room to maneouvre when Cycling Yangon’s gridlock apocalypse remains only one excuse not to strap one drivers speed onto the road from side streets to your head: sheer stupidity. Get over your without bothering to determine whether grade-school fear of looking silly (you’ll look anyone is approaching (another bad habit of when used judiciously, but even sillier lying on the pavement with your Yangon drivers). when every fool on the skull cracked open). And I don’t care if the road honks at every shadow helmet musses your K-pop hairdo (which 4. Avoid sudden changes in direction: looks ridiculous, by the way): Protect your Sometimes it’s necessary to swerve to avoid that moves, it’s reduced to head from everything the city throws at it. clueless drivers or insane pedestrians, but annoying background noise if I see a car parked in my lane up ahead, I that doesn’t communicates 2. Keep your eyes moving and your ears don’t wait until I’m 2 metres behind it before anything to anyone. open: You need to keep your eyes about abruptly changing lanes. About 50 metres Pedestrians are another 5 metres up the road to take note of the out, I start to slowly angle away from the hazard, and they’re often less pedestrians, potholes and sleeping dogs in curb so that by the time I reach the car I’m predictable than drivers. I’ve your path, and at the same time 100 metres already in position to pass it. If there are had people stand on the curb ahead to register parked cars, merging traffic cars approaching from behind, I signal my watching me pedal closer, and other hazards. Simultaneously, you need intention to gradually angle away from closer, closer, and then when to be aware of what’s happening to your left the curb by putting my left arm out at a I’m 2 metres away they and right. And don’t wear headphones while 45-degree angle and pointing down towards decide it’s the perfect time to cycling on the open road: Hearing is your the road. step in front of me and start primary means of assessing what’s happening crossing the road. behind you. 5. Slow down: I enjoy riding fast in places There are also the human where the road is wide open, but I always stop squirrels who step forward, 3. Don’t hug the curb: Whenever I ride at red lights. And in areas where the traffic is then back, then forward, too close to the curb, there is a noticeable gridlocked, I ride slowly with my eyes roving then freeze, then step back, increase in incidences where cars and buses to avoid colliding with pedestrians darting then forward until you fly past and then box me in, either swerving between cars. The drivers of Yangon might have no idea what they’re right to pick up passengers or making a very not think so, but for me it’s more important to going to do next. Another dangerous, full-on right-hand turn. I have avoid running someone down than it is to get all-too-common oddity therefore developed the habit of riding about to my destination a couple minutes faster. are pedestrians who walk 1 metre out from the curb: I’m more visible, across the street while staring intently in the opposite To buy a bike, helmet, or other accessories, check out Bike World, direction from which the Yangon’s only cycling specialist store. traffic is coming, a habit for Address: 3/2 Kan Road Between Pyay & Insein Road , which I have no reasonable Hlaing Myint Mo Housing, Hlaing township. explanation. (Are they time Phone: 01525820, 095134190, 095007819 travelers from the past? Do Open daily from 10am to 8pm. they think it’s 1961, when Burma was still a left-hand- driving country?) One must also expect the unexpected: Two weeks ago a pedestrian who was running for a bus ploughed At a busy intersection on the corner of Bo into me at full speed while Aung Kyaw Street. Pic: Aung Htay Hlaing I was sitting on my bike waiting for a red light. I saved myself from being knocked over by putting my hand part of Yangon’s road- experience as many close out and propping myself up planning equation. calls with bad drivers as I do on a car parked to my right. In the meantime, we in Yangon on a weekly basis. The pedestrian bounced off who cycle in Yangon must Anyone who mounts a me, muttered an apology continue dealing with the bicycle in Yangon will face and continued his blind, situation that has been crazed drivers who don’t thoughtless dash for the bus. handed to us. seem to know what traffic As I type this, I’m still feeling I spend a significant lanes are for, or swerve shoulder pain from the “Bicycle riding not only allows individuals to beat congestion, but can also be a means of reducing the congestion itself.”

amount of time cycling without warning, or make collision. around the city, usually about abrupt turns without Sad to say, but other seven or eight hours a week. signaling, or think it’s a good cyclists also cause plenty of I live in and idea to crawl up the opposing headaches. They can be just work downtown, and my traffic lane. The worst are as unpredictable as drivers, commute (which I usually bus drivers, who apparently but without the speed or do five days a week) is about believe that beating the other deadly force. It’s especially 21 kilometres (13 miles) each driver to the next passenger strange how the slowest way. This takes me 45 to 50 stop is more important than among them (including minutes one way, up to twice life itself. trishaw drivers) are the as fast as I can cover the And a note to drivers: If keenest to place themselves distance in a taxi. a pedestrian is crossing the at the front of the queue Before moving to road 100 metres ahead and waiting for the light to Myanmar I lived in Los they’re already three-quarters change green. Angeles for 10 years, and of the way to the curb, it’s A city with dedicated bike before that spent three years not necessary to honk at lanes, and competent police in New York City. In both them. They’ll be long gone to enforce their proper use, cities I cycled nearly every by the time you get there. would not have such a big day, and throughout that Honking can be a useful problem with this. entire 13-year period I didn’t means communication 12 Car yards, service centres, accessory shops, heavy machinery outlets

Industry Company Name Address Township Phone Car Service Auto Care Pyay Rd, near Nar Nat Taw Street KMYT 43050098 Car Auction Centre Sakura Auto Auction Centre Cherry Garden City,14/3 Ward SOKA 5072650 CarAution Five Great Service Co. Ltd 43, 3rd floor, 27th Street (Lower block) PBDN 374257, 095129699 Car Auction Sea Cross Auto Mobile 36/38, Alan Pya Pagoda rd, Infront of La Pyayt Wun Plaza Dagon 5159884, 255622, 255623 Car Service Auto Care 451-E, Pyay Road KMYT 43050098 Car Accessories Mg Ba &sons No76/80, Banyar Dala Street MTNT 200250 Car Accessories Bawgawadi Bayint Naung Market MYGN 682554 Car Accessories Shwe Pyi Thit No.29/30, Bayint Naung Zay MYGN 681694 Car Accessories Fibre Tech Corner of Kyuntaw and Narnataw streets SCHG 95188095 Car Accessories Time Car Decoration B1,2,3 Hantharwaddy Street SCHG 98033523 Car Service Cherry Auto No.52,Waizeyantar Road SOKA 565522 Car Aircon Shafee 33 Ma Po Street, Myaynigone SCHG 536617 Car Accessories Mercedes Auto Parts No 9, Botataung Lanethwe BTHG 297721, 297243 Car Accessories Mercedes Auto Parts No 9,Botataung Lanethwe BTHG 297721, 297243 Car Accessories Desire Autoworks 10 Waizayantar Rd S/OKKA 95052457 Car Audio MK Car Audio No.1/B, Pyay Rd, 6 Mile HLG 524249 Car Service Myanmar General Motor Co.,Ltd (MGM) Rm-5,Build-3,Yadanar Rd, Malikha Zay Tan TGGN 095118184 Car Spare Parts U Ba Jan Car Auto Part No.198,Ground Floor, Bomyathtun Street PZDG 95101263 Car Service Golden Air Travel & Tour No.87,Ground Floor, 44th Street BTHG 095066527 Car Service Mya Thar Co.Ltd Rm (1), Building (233),Yan Shin Street, (6) Quarter YKN 550812 Ext 2624 Car Service SCE (Sea Cross Express Trading Co.,Ltd) No.38(A/1), Alan Pya Pagoda Road, at the front of La Pyay Winn Plaza DGN 255622 Car Service Sky Mahar Trading & Construction Rm.902, Building (B), Peal Condo BHN 559560 Car Service Myanmar Bright Wing Co.Ltd No.251,1st flr,Bo Aung Kyaw St (Middle Block) KTDA 385949 Car Service Swel Taw Car Services Aung Mingalar Street, Kyauk Myung TMWE 0973081696 Car Service PPWS Trading (Pyae Phoo Wai Sar) No.166/B,Rm (1),First Thiri Avenue, Lower Kyee Myint Dine Rd AHLN 229565 Car Service Pann Kaba Services Co.,Ltd No.255, First Floor,Bogyoke Aung San Market KTDA 377004 Car Dealer Medori Trade New University Avenue 543139, 547266 Heavy Machinery Family United Power Co.Ltd No.12/B,43, Shwekeinnayi Housing, Narnattaw Street KMYT 706644 Heavy Machinery Techo Marketing No.21, Pearl Street,Thuwana TGGN 570283 Heavy Machinery Aung Hein Min Co., Ltd 69, Bayint Naung Rd MYG 682160 SCHG, 536272, 500060 Heavy Machinery The Rich Gems Co.Ltd No. 303, Uwisara Rd, No. 16/2, Inya Rd, (Inya Day Spa) KMYT 502597, 537907, 503375 Heavy Machinery Myanmar Kaido Co.Ltd. 1/A, Bayint Naung Rd, Aye Yeik Mon Housing, Block 4 HLG 09-5020414, 681660 Heavy Machinery Aung Gyi Trading Co.Ltd. (Oriental Coast Co. Ltd) 5/C, Yuzana Street, 4th Qt, Ayeyeikmon Housing Hlaing 681424, 09-511-8681 Car Dealer Super Seven Star No.162-164,Maha Bandoola Rd, PZDG 299183 Car Dealer New Comet Trading A-1,2,3,second floor, Myanmagonyi housing MTNT 393344 Car Dealer Kaung Myat Car Dealer No.76-80, B-1, Theinphyu Tannis MTNT 09-8630552 Car Dealer Golden Fortune 327 U Wizara Road SCHG 95132777 Car Dealer Arman Thit Car Production 423 Lower Kyinmindine Street AHLN 95147828 Car Dealer Sky High 42/A Pantra Street Dagon 95410699 Car Dealer KSTM Car Industrial Number 104, 37th Street KTDA 398304 Heavy Machinery United Machinery Group 589-598 New Tha Ka Ta ( 1), Bo Aung Kyaw Street HLTY 645,181.00 Heavy Machinery Shwe Ein 15 Mya Mar Lar Lane, Industrial Zone TKA 09 5402047, 09 5195002 Heavy Machinery Trade Zone 001/101, Zayar Mon Housing, Bayint Naung Street MYGN 682990 Car Dealer SUZUKI 50/52 Bogyoke Aung San St. PZDG 09-5011990 , 296605 , 297214 Car Dealer Kabarmin 887 Lay Daung Kan St. TGGN 0949233403 / 398332 Car Dealer Aung Kembo 156 Twin Thin Tike Wun, U Tun Nyo Street, Zone 3, Shwe Pyi Thar township 618142 / 09-49322323 Car Dealer Speedy Auto 138 Upper Pansodan Street MTNT 393202 Heavy Machinery ATC Trading & JCB 27/A Kabar Aye Pagoda Road Yankin 667498 Car Dealer Shwe Yin Mar Co.,Ltd Sakura Tower (or) TharKayTa KTDA 255460,450541,450907-9 Car Dealer Elephant Media No.23 Baug SunLwanGuKyaung Str: 2Str: YKN 09-43162446,400838 Car Dealer Win Hlaing2 Oo Yuzana Tower BHN 09-5099043 Car Dealer Cherry Yoma Co.,Ltd A(230)Myanma Gone Youn Str: Nat Chaung TMWE 09-47072073 Car Show Room Win & S.P.A.M 87 Pyay Road MYGN 09-5129699 Heavy Machinery Uclan (Vital Service) 407, Building C, 4th Floor,Pearl Condo BHN 558675 Heavy Machinery SCG Trading (Kubota) 5 Kabar Aye Pagoda Road YKN 09 5149007 Car Automobile Group Myanmar - Toyo Automobile Group Rm-G-1-9,Build C, Pearl Condo, Kabar Aye Pagoda Road BHN 3001182, 09-73144588, 09 5103107 Heavy Machinery Pacific Machinery Bayint Naung HLG 680878,680868 Car Show Room Oasis Auto Services Co.,Ltd No.89, Yangon Insein Rd KMYT 535479 Car Show Room Synergy Car Show Room Near 8 Mile MYGN 0949324010 Car Show Room Win Ko Car Sales Centre .27 Thukhawaddy Street, (6) Qtr YKN 579863 Car Show Room Yaung Ni Oo Car Show Room W-23,Mya Khan Thar Street HLG 681629 Heavy Machinery Tiger Supply Co.,Ltd 19-21 Station Road, Bauk Htaw YKN 8603505 Car Show Room Shwe Wah Yaung Car Show Room J-73 Yuzana Street, Bayint Naung Warehouse MYGN 680803 Car Show Room CNY Myanmar No.47/Flr,7 1/2 Miles, Pyay Road MYGN 095009532 Car Show Room Capital Automotive Ltd. No (3), Insein Rd.Ward (12), Near Themin Junction HLG 095003861 Car Show Room Aung Kabar Co. Ltd 40(A) Phoe Sein Road, Tamwe TMWE 8603919 Motocycle Astronova Myanmar No.70, corner of U Tun Nyo St and U Chaint Street, Zone 2 HLTA 687933 Car Dealer Aung Gabar Co.,Ltd 40/A Poe Sein Road TMWE 8603919 Car Show Room Shwe Yamon Manufacturing Co. Ltd No.174(B),Seik Kan Thar Street, Industrial Zone (4) HLTA 685320 13

A trishaw in Yangon. Pic: Kaung Htet Trishaw drivers keep chin up

has gained a level of trust with such as a hospital. U Than Win of Hlaing Tharyar the regulars he refers to as his “Passengers Do those situations hurt his township on Yangon’s outskirts By “first priority,” customers. business? Definitely not, he said. has been driving a trishaw for 20 Cherry Thein “Passengers like me because He earns around K12,000 a day, years. I consider them my family. like me K1,200 of which he must pay for “People near my station are Mothers ask me to ferry their renting his trishaw. His single life friendly to me and give some children because they trust me. because I gives him a chance to save and he odds jobs when I have no On an early morning last week I think I should charge more but also provides for his parents. passengers or meagre earnings,” in , trishaw it’s hard to make people feel it’s Though Ko Kyar Si is respected he said. driver Ko Kyar Si’s affable worth it,” he says. consider them amongst the customers that He finds himself painting, personality is on full display. He Although the city is more know him, he admitted that fixing basins or pipes and taking keeps his banter light-hearted as crowded than ever with taxis, the trishaw drivers are often looked on small carpentry and electrical he finds himself in the middle of demand for trishaws still remains my family.” down on in Myanmar society for jobs for his customers when a familiar balancing act to keep high. being uneducated and lacking a business slows down. his regular passengers happy. In the downtown area, while as the temperature rises and polished appearance. The father of four with another “Kyar Si, can you drive by Asia cars and buses sit in traffic jams rainy season hits, they said there “My job has a low stature in on the way U Than Win, like other Royal hospital?” one man asks. on main roads, trishaw drivers is no lack of paying customers, society but I always try to keep drivers, professed a love of driving “Kyar Si, please drive my kids snake between idling vehicles especially in crowded townships my chin up. I won’t cheat and that keep him on the roads. to school,” a nearby mother says, and through Yangon’s labyrinth of like Maynigon, Sanchaung, steal. I make my living in an “I love trishaw-driving. It is anxious to make sure that her side streets and back alleys. For Kyeemyindain, Alone, Hledan honest way,” he said. my benefactor of a happy-life children arrive to class on time. short trips, they remain ideal. and Kamaryut. Other drivers agreed with Ko and I won’t depart it. If I won the The slender Ko Kyar Si, 33, has Trishaw drivers told The Ko Kyar Si said that on some Kyar Si that they are respected lottery, I would buy a taxi and been pedaling his trishaw for Myanmar Times that business occasions he drives for free within their local communities hire a driver but I would keep 10 years in this neighbourhood. is good. Despite tiresome work when customers are in urgent and by those who use their driving my trishaw as long as I Over his decade on the streets he that can become more difficult need of a ride to somewhere services. could pedal,” he said. 14

Passengers waiting for a circle line train to arrive. Pic: Kaung Htet Waiting for the train: upgrading the Yangon circle line A developed country is not a place where the poor have cars. It’s where the rich use public transport. – Mayor of Bogota, September 2012

March 2012 by the Graduate School Mr Diettler taught the steam- U Thant Zin believes one cause of Public Policy at the University locomotive drivers how to drive the could be the increase in ticket By of Tokyo estimates that 130,000 “Just two diesel trains. He wrote that, “Later prices – “people now prefer to travel Jessica Mudditt passengers take the circle line each on… less powerful diesel locos were in buses because the price isn’t day. The put into service on the circle line... much different,” he said. Development Project, as the paper percent of That is still the situation today.” However Yangon’s palpably is titled, describes the Yangon Circle In addition to the worn out overcrowded buses account for THE hands of the clock at Yangon Line as suffering “from poor quality, Yangon’s carriages, the daily schedule of just 6pc of the total number of Central Railway Station show the low speed, and infrequent service. 10 circle line trains (the last of vehicles on the road, according to time as 11:50 – but it’s 10:45am Thus, it is relatively underused as a which leaves at 2:25pm) “is not the university’s data from 2008. and the Yangon circle line is ready resource.” population preferable for the passengers, as This means that a huge number of for departure. A lone chicken Indeed: the report goes on trains often run not as scheduled. taxis and private cars dominate, pecks at the ground skittishly to state that just two percent The uncertain schedule refrains with obvious consequences for while a dog with a black tumour of Yangon’s population rely rely on trains potential passengers from using air quality as well as economic does his best to avoid the small on trains as a form of public railways and encourages them to impacts, such as slowing the flurry of passengers. Although transport each day, whereas 3.14 as a form use less-uncertain modes such as delivery of goods and services 20 of the station’s 427 staff are million passengers take the bus, bus, private car, or taxi.” and increasing the length of time employed to keep the station representing the vast majority of Although the station manager commuters spend in traffic each clean, betel stains abound and the 4.5 million city dwellers who of public told The Myanmar Times that 90pc day. several of the rubbish bins use public transport. of outbound trains leave on time, According to the academic are almost overflowing. Weary Because the train loop 67-year-old U Thant Zin, who has L. Santucci, even a city such as families sleep on the platform doesn’t extend to Yangon’s main transport run a betel shop at Dadarkalay Bangkok, which has a popular beside oversized plastic bags of commercial district, “commuters Station station since 1986, doesn’t skytrain and metro, lost 6pc of its belongings. are forced to take buses, taxis, agree. gross domestic product due to For a city with an estimated or rickshaws in the commercial each day, He said that trains are usually traffic congestion in 2011. population of six million and district, which contributes to severe late and “it gets worse on weekends Although the need for an increasingly congested roads, congestion problems,” states the whereas – maybe because there are fewer upgrade is apparent, the report the intra-city railway line has an report. passengers and the staff don’t care.” states that the infrastructure cannot unfortunate lack of hustle and A German engineer called Dieter Last year U Thant Zin opened support a faster or more frequent bustle. This is primarily due to the Hettler told The Myanmar Times 3.14 million a second-hand electronics shop train service unless the lightweight fact that the train travels at about via email that: “In February 1964 next to the betel shop, but said that railway foundations and tracks are 17 kilometres an hour and therefore a batch of 28 diesel-hydraulic business is slow and was unwilling completely overhauled. takes nearly three hours to locomotives…arrived in Yangon passengers to divulge his profits. For decades, the circle line complete the 45.9km route, which from Essen, Germany, which I had He’s noticed a “huge decline in has been used almost exclusively encompasses 39 stations. the pleasure to put into use on take the bus.” passenger numbers – it’s a quarter by tourists and low income A working paper published in circular trains starting from Insein.” of what it was in 1986.” Yangonites, who put up with the 15

The Yangon circle line train. Pic: Kaung Htet Waiting for the train: upgrading the Yangon circle line A developed country is not a place where the poor have cars. It’s where the rich use public transport. – Mayor of Bogota, September 2012

trains’ inconveniences because it K500. a seminar in Yangon to explain the small between 1988 and 2003 networks, and lack of financial is a K100 cheaper alternative to a A 65-year-old blind banjo player survey and a question and answer and it wasn’t until 2011 that it support.” This causes “on-the-road bus ticket. Up until November 2011, carrying a tin filled with mostly session open to the public will take began to expand its presence in competition and threatens the the price of a train ticket was just K50 notes told The Myanmar place. Myanmar after a statement on safety of the public.” K10, after which it rose to K100 for a Times, “I go from carriage to Mr Morikawa explained that cooperation was jointly issued Although upgrading the circle return journey. carriage. I can’t rely on my children once the findings of the master by the governments of Japan and line would consume a vast amount Thirty-three-year-old Lei Lei to support me, so this is my plan are known, the government Myanmar. of money, the report argues that San and her eight female friends profession.” will set its priorities. Mr Morikawa said, “It’s “a frequent and reliable railway from Mayangyone were traveling A woman carrying a basket of If upgrading the circle line makes important to see transport system produces more overall to a donation ceremony in peanuts on her head said, “I’m on the cut, the project will take five as a network – but so far the benefits than a bus system because Kyimindaing. She said, “I don’t ride the train every day and I never buy years to complete, Mr Morikawa government hasn’t developed a railway development can attract the train regularly but I’m taking a ticket. If the conductor catches said. concrete plan or coordination. high levels of investment from it today because bus fares are me, I have to pay a K1000 fine.” “For example, before starting the It’s a big investment, so it’s a big the private sector and promote expensive.” The good news is that plans to project, the government will need decision.” real estate development around A man sitting in another carriage, modernise the circle line are in the to put out a tender for the designer. The report (which has no the station, which typically does who has been buying and sells pipeline – but the sad news is that This process takes time.” connection to JICA and YCDC’s not happen in the case of a bus folding lounges for the past two this will take at least six years from JICA’s role in a possible upgrade plans) estimates that upgrading the system… Such incentives can years, agreed, saying, “Buses are a now to complete. “depends on [the outcome of] our railway will cost US$10 million per enable the local government to bit expensive.” Maki Morikawa, Project discussions with the government. kilometre, amounting to a total cost form public private partnerships The train is a more convenient Formulation Advisor for the Of course we can provide finance of about $400 million. (PPPs), such that government option for people transporting Infrastructure Sector at Japan and the government will prepare a It states, “construction costs spending on railway improvement wholesale goods – such as vendors International Cooperation budget,” he said. aside, the project can become can be minimised.” from the large fruit and vegetable Agency (JICA), told The Myanmar When asked about whether an profitable in about 15 years’ time” Although Yangon’s infrastructure market near Botataung station. Times that a master plan for the improved railway system would and calculates that the amount of is comparatively weak – a factor According to the station master U development of greater Yangon mean a rise in ticket prices, Mr money saved by having an efficient that will add to the overall cost Aung Than Kyaw, oversized goods was started in December last year Morikawa said, “We ask the same train line (which thereby reduces of the project: “on the positive are prohibited from being brought and will be published in December question ourselves, because the commuting times) and “increased side, the land for the Yangon on the train during the morning 2013. JICA is collaborating with [circle line’s] passengers are from consumer surplus from the circular railway is ready and no rush-hour. Yangon City Development low income backgrounds. We need reduction in generalised costs… are resettlement of inhabitants is The Yangon circle line is itself a Committee (YCDC) to undertake to discuss this in detail because calculated to be approximately… required.” hotbed of entrepreneurial activity. the survey, which he described as a railway system is an important $39.1 million a year.” It seems inevitable that A man with a deafening voice sells “wide-ranging.” form of transport for everyone.” The study describes Yangon’s Yangonites will one day take a cosmetics and perfumes, while “It includes issues such as water Some may wonder why JICA bus system as suffering from metro for granted, and that the an eccentric elderly person hands supply as well as urban transport,” didn’t initiate such plans sooner. “insufficient management of the entire lap will take around 35 out free samples of bitter tasting Mr Morikawa said. As Mr Morikawa explained, proliferation of routes, the poor minutes. The real question is digestive medicine. I buy a pack for In May, JICA and YCDC will hold JICA’s operations were relatively quality of vehicles, inadequate bus when.