IndustryIndustry &Heritage

4 walks European Industrial and Technical showing the industrial heritage Heritage Year of the estuary of Bilbao 2015 Before the titanium came iron Walk 1 Walk 2

El Pontón From the temple of knowledge to the old MINES, MILLS AND Along the Los Caños route INDUSTRY AND RIVER shipyards to the Ribera Market Industrial architecture of the twentieth century From the Area of the Back to Bilbao MERCHANDISE Mines to Harino Panadera IN THE BOTXO New Areas/Classical Ensanche/Old Quarter ASSESSMENT ASSESSMENT IIndustrynIndduusstrtryy 6 VERY INTERESTING 30 INTERESTING ROUTE ROUTE 6.3 km Heritage 8.4 km

Walk 3 Walk 4 Larreineta funicular railway Barakaldo. The industrial leader La Arboleda - Zugaztieta IRON: THE RED ONE RIVER, Sestao. The factory city Miners and mines: the BILBAO Portugalete. Fusion of both sides of the river CARD devoured mountain GOLD OF BIZKAIA Ortuella TWO WORLDS Getxo. The mansions of the industrialists EXTENSION 1: This card is your passport to savings when planning your stay in Bilbao; use it for public Mining remains between Kobaron and Pobeña. transport, museum and theatre tickets, ASSESSMENT restaurants, shops and other leisure activities. From Ortuella: 10 km. ASSESSMENT Request it at any tourist information offi ce or on: EXTENSION 2: www.bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo 54 UNMISSABLE El Pobal foundry. 76 UNMISSABLE ROUTE From Ortuella: 10 km. ROUTE 9 km EXTENSION 3: La Encartada 12 km textile factory. From El Pobal: 18 km.

Version: MAY 2015. Version one Published by: Bilbao Bizkaia be Basque PRACTICALINFORMATION Content: Rúbrica Printers: Artes Gráficas Munguía, S.L. / Legal Deposit: BI-625-15 106 Comparison between 1863 (before the emergence of extraction and production) and 1910. Comparison between Sestao and Portugalete in 1864 and 1962.

You are in a city that has been recognized All of this provides a unique testimony of how the WALKS SHOWING THE internationally as an example of urban city and its surroundings ‘invented itself’ between 4 regeneration. In the last 20 years it has evolved the last third of the nineteenth century and fi rst dramatically from a worn-out industrial third of twentieth century, and provides clues which metropolitan model to a service-oriented urban help us understand the process of ‘reinvention’ INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE OF setting with third generation companies. currently going on, based on the model of city that started in that economic and social explosion. In Under its skin lie the physical remains and fact, the towns along the river saw their populations soul of a city that iron turned into the most multiplied by four in just 40 years (1880-1920). economically important of the Atlantic Arc THE ESTUARY OF BILBAO th (from Porto to Bordeaux) from the 18 century On these walks, you will be able to observe the onwards. heritage of that time, with multifaceted renovations and remains, including proto-industrial, industrial, Walk 4 Industrial Bilbao is to Like other cities in which vitality is a key factor manufacturing and residential architecture, to understanding it, Bilbao and its surroundings iron as contemporary Bilbao infrastructures and civil buildings and cultural are like an onion with different layers; the best facilities. The cultural concept of industrial heritage is“ to the thousands of jobs known are those spaces which are internationally does not only refer to landmarks and buildings; it renowned and the Old Quarter. related to knowledge and also covers all aspects of life around its ability to innovation Beneath that image, however, there are many generate wealth. Walk 3 others, and the one that brings out its most Along with physical remains of the industrial past, idiosyncratic side is that which arises out of its you will see areas away from the beaten tourist track ” industrial character, in an enclave surrounded by which show to a great extent the essence of this city. iron mines that have been worked since Roman In its most famous images there remains a memory times. The high quality of its ore with little and infl uence of the industry which was alive until 30 sulphur, low cost and proximity to a large port Walk 2 years ago and which has profoundly infl uenced the made it an excellent raw material for both the lifestyle of its inhabitants, its demographics, culture forges of Bizkaia and the Bessemer furnaces in and social values. the industrial revolution. These walks do not cover all aspects of the city, or even This was a process of innovation which, from its entire industrial heritage; they are comfortable, the mid-nineteenth century on, thanks to the accessible trips, on foot or in easy public transport, accumulation of capital made in mining activities, which allow you to see a signifi cant percentage of the led to the emergence of emporiums of steel, Walk 1 most important features of this area. energy, fi nance, chemicals, commerce, shipyards, tools and teaching. It gave rise to an intensive This material is complemented industrial network that has continued to this day, by the website which shows other although the most signifi cant productive part graphic materials, links and data disappeared in the 1980s and 1990s. updates: bioiron.info Walk 1

ASSESSMENT ROUTE 6.3 km

VERY INTERESTING MINES, MILLS AND “So much Bilbao in the memory...” (Blas de Otero) 01_El Pontón 02_Along the Los Caños route to the Ribera Market 03_From the Area of the Mines to Harino Panadera MERCHANDISE 04_New Areas / Classical Ensanche / Old Quarter Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND Heritage MERCHANDISE

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U R R V. IRALAK JARO . MONTE ERETZA A D m I T P OLABARRÍA Pabellón A R D . G R S JARDÍN A I N O p DE ARANA R R B TRA K E ONOM de A MONTE SAIBIGAIN N a L A IÑ A I DOLORES IBARRURI D DRÉS ISASI Giña Á C T L Deportes C O K LA A. GAZTAÑETA A INTXORTA N I T AN L b PARQUEE O EMILIO L JULIA SI ARRIETA A O a C. P. Zamácola ANDÍNPIN R A FLORESTA F i A D T Juan Delmas O e z ARGINAO ZUBIAURRETORES AMETZOLA R S E ESKURTZE AVENIDA SAN ADRIÁN r á U I L r o b A E P GOIKO TORRE B S S MEDINA DE POMAR A c a U F A a l IBAIALDE OLITE É ARANE A D r MA LMASÍN Escuela R MINA V DR. F. L r il . L D U Ingeniería ANTONIO TRUEBA D E N RA d ZAMÁCOLA E R Ntra. Sra. e A L Técnica Industrial D A BLO ALZOLAF A de Lourdes B E E Inst. F. P. i BENARDINO GARIAZAR l R R D y S. Adrián b LEKANDA O I Z Eskurtze a Illumbe C A N o C R E Mª VICTORIA A PL. GRAL. R I L T ARANE Buen Pastor Ferrocarril a Azbarren URKIOLA V URIBE LASO a R LATORRE D A R C. P. Maestra M y Sta. Teresita R ESTRAD E A U Isabel Gallego ad T R K de Gorría r i E R d , R E S Ba E r c e A IK l o na ,V X PADRE LARRAMENDI A a l en ci a y Vi g o Ó A Z T J N DO Convento de ÍN A A D R A Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND 01 02 Heritage MERCHANDISE EL PONTÓN ALONG THE LOS CAÑOS End of the Los Caños walk ROUTE TO THE RIBERA with panels explaining the The walk begins at the old fl our factory history of the area. El Pontón (1). Only the bakery building remains and it has been converted into an ikastola (a school where classes are MARKET taught exclusively in Basque). It was built in 1793 to ensure the supply of fl our to ROUTE 2 KM Bilbao and, with its layout and division of labour and work areas, is considered the To get back to the historic centre of Bilbao, we suggest a fi rst signifi cant industrial building in the walk along this romantic path, which carried the aqueduct Basque Country. supplying water to Bilbao from 1523 until it was closed in 1933. The fact that it looks like a monastery or a prison can attributed to both the lack of Along the way, it is possible to imagine the rushing water previous references and to the custom of where the river narrows and swirls, and the human ingenuity setting new industries in buildings with a that used mills to convert the water into a driving force for the style which the inhabitants were familiar pre-industrial businesses of the city (mills, foundries, fulling with. mills and glass and textile factories). El Pontón nowaday. The work is a building of Cultural Interest Interestingly, neither this area nor the pre-industrial sectors and is part of the neoclassical vanguard located here played any part in the industrialisation of Bilbao in Bizkaia. The building is a monumental and its surroundings. 10 cubic mass, with a four-pitched roof 11 On the opposite bank you have a view of the La Peña/Abusu adapted to the slope of the terrain, with area that in its current state is the result of developmentalist four fl oors on its south-eastern side and architecture designed to accommodate the waves of three on the other. immigrants who arrived in the 1950s and 1960s to meet the demand for industrial labour. As in this Old island of San Cristóbal, neighbourhood, they which disappeared after the generally settled in 1983 floods, and mines on the areas that had been slopes. 1930s. sparsely used until then. At the fi rst curve of the river was the island of San Cristóbal, where originally there were tanneries, which were then replaced by a « The flour mill pumping station and built by Eduardo a small hydroelectric Coste y Vildósola, power station. located next to the ruined building At the end of this of the bakery. section there are some Mineral kilns in panels explaining the the foreground. history of this part of Early twentieth the river. century. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND Heritage MERCHANDISE Manuel María de Smith (1879-1956) At the end of this walk you will Other works: see the old Ollerías school (2). • Workers’ houses in Pedro Ispizua Barakaldo (1916). (1895-1976) Designed by Pedro Ispizua in • Coromina Industrial 1922, it is a model of regionalist Other works: chemical factory architecture. At the bottom of (1923) (p. 41). • Garden City district the hill there are two even more (Ciudad Jardín) in • Hotel Carlton (1926) in Bilbao (1922). striking examples of the most the Plaza Moyúa. • Bandstand on the famous architects of this era: • Many grand houses in Arenal (1927). Ispizua himself (García Rivero Getxo (p. 104). • The Sota Building. • Atxuri School (1928) school) and Manuel María de Ollerías School. (p. 13). Smith (Atxuri Station). Bilbao (1924). • Ribera Market (1929) • Offi ces of Altos Hornos (p. 14). At the bottom of this street on steelworks (1911 and • Various houses in your right is La Encarnación La Encarnación Square. 1946) and La Naval. Bilbao. square (3), where you will • Luis Briñas school see the church and convent (1933). of that name. They date from • The Tiger building the fourteenth and fi fteenth ATXURI STATION (1943-1947) (p. 36). • San Felicísimo church centuries and the old convent Designed by Manuel María de Smith in the regionalist Next to the station is the García Rivero Public School (1959). now houses the Museum of style (4), it was built in 1913 to replace the old terminal (5) also designed by Pedro Ispizua (p. 12) ) in the Sacred Art of Bizkaia (www. of 1882. It is the terminal station of two lines, leading to regionalist style in 1928. eleizmuseoa.com). The square Durango/San Sebastián on one branch line and Gernika/ Opposite is the imposing building which was built in 12 has been partly pedestrianised Bermeo on the other. 13 and has been turned into a very 1835 along neoclassical lines and which housed the pleasant spot. At the entrance to the station, above the name of the Hospital of Bilbao until 1908 (6). It boasted the most former operator, Ferrocarriles Vascongados (Basque advanced hygiene of the time and went by the motto Railways), there is a set of shields combining the coat of “You who are sick and groan in poverty here shall fi nd arms of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa, entwined with the arms of attentive care”. Since then, it has been used for the Alava and the chains from the coat of arms of Navarra. teaching of different specialties, cohabiting with the Museum of Fine Arts between 1914 and 1945. The neighbourhood where it is located, Atxuri (white rock in Basque), was a suburb beyond the city walls in medieval Bilbao.

Towers of the García Rivero School and Atxuri station. Both fall within the neo- regionalist movement.

1910. Above the Los Canos walk and Atxuri was the The river full of iron ore wharves in 1890. 1930s. First Civil Hospital of Bilbao, later the School mining area of El Morro mine, in operation until 1970. of Arts and Trades and the Fine Arts Museum. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND 03 Heritage MERCHANDISE FROM THE AREA

Old Market Square (1874). LA RIBERA MARKET OF THE MINES Continuing along the same street, we pass the Bridge of San Antón and its Church which was for centuries the entrance to the medieval city, and we found ourselves TO HARINO behind the Ribera Market (7). With 10,000 m2 dedicated to fresh produce, it is the largest covered market in Europe. PANADERA It is also by Pedro Ispizua (p. 12), opened in 1929 and now recently restored. The project, which sought functionality, is based on open spaces without internal columns, (THE BEST CONSERVED with good ventilation to prevent undesirable smells and with careful natural lighting. Translucent materials are used to allow daylight to fl ood down from one fl oor to INDUSTRIAL AREA) another and there are large windows, lattices and rosettes. All this, together with the decoration of its facades, forms an eclectic Art Deco style. ROUTE 2 KM The site it occupies was for centuries the heart of the town and came to replace the roadside stalls that sold produce to the citizens. THE DISTRICT OF THE MINES AND THE SAILORS This is the district located on the shore 14 opposite the Ribera Market; it is known 15 by the name of Old Bilbao (Bilbao La Vieja) to distinguish it from the historic Old Quarter (Casco Viejo), also called the Seven Streets (Siete Calles). In the Middle Ages, this is where the Castilian wool that was later sold in Bilbao was delivered (bear in mind that the original city was, exclusively, the historical centre behind you) dating from its recognition as a town in 1300. From the 17th century onwards, important 1877, iron mining groups coexisted here replacing the with residential suburbs, which meant old medieval signifi cant levels of overcrowding and bridge with consequent serious health problems. the current one. You can see where the multicoloured facades and balconies that were sailors’ homes and the commercial premises of the original warehouses have been converted into shops and entertainment venues. We cross to this side of the river by the historic bridge of San Antón (next to the market by the church) to go in search of these mining memories. The Market can be visited during business hours. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND After crossing the bridge we are at the beginning of the street where you can VANGUARD Heritage MERCHANDISE see the old Bilbao “Casa cuna” Daycare House (8) of 1916, which answered ARCHITECTURE Ricardo Bastida the pressing social need for improved We walk up Tres (1878 - 1953) sanitation and hygiene. From a design Pilares street along In 1923 he proposed by Ricardo Bastida, it has obvious the side of the square an expansion plan for reminiscences of Catalan Modernism. to connect with San Bilbao to the river mouth Above the doorway of the front door sits a at the Abra, a visionary Francisco street and sculpture of Charity, referring to the use then walk down Conde project that would of the building. result in the current Mirasol, street to the metropolitan area. Muelle de la Merced. Other works: CALCINATION KILN FROM THE At No. 3 is old La Ceres • Municipal wine fl our factory (10). warehouse (1909) SAN LUIS MINE This was the fi rst (p. 21). We continue walking down Claudio building in Spain to • Indautxu, Ribera and The Ceres building restored and take the second be built of reinforced Iturribide schools Gallastegui street and converted into flats, “Casa-Cuna” Daycare House. concrete using the (1918). turning on the right (Olano street). Here with the deconsecrated Hennebique system • Zakoneta Desinfection we fi nd Saralegi square, where one of church of La Merced in the Centre (1918) (p. 52). (1899-1900) and the many iron ore calcinations kilns of the background. • Torre Urizar Municipal area stands, imposing and restored (9). marks a technological Housing (1919-1922). milestone in Basque « It was built in a single th • Central Secondary The mines were located in the 19 and industrial architecture, year. School (1927). th 20 centuries in the nearby hills, and which makes it a • Deusto Bridge (1936) in these intermediate areas there were building of Cultural (p. 35). infrastructures for treating the ore 16 Interest. It was fi nished in 1900 and was built in a Bodegas Bilbaínas Wine Warehouse building. 17 • Restoration of before loading it onto barges that moved Santiago Cathedral record time of 7 months by the young civil engineer the cargo to larger vessels moored at the (1952). Ramón Grotta and the architect Federico Ugalde (p. mouth of the river. 28). Originally it had 6 fl oors; when it was restored, the This restored kiln was for the calcination facade was kept and the interior was converted into The kiln of of the extracted ore, to convert it into fl ats. the San Luis a purer product for transport and Continuing along the road, we pass in front of the mine before subsequent handling. restoration. historic church of La Merced, now deconsecrated The building belonged to the San Luis and used for musical and artistic events. Before mine, which was reaching Bailén street, on the right we can see another abandoned in 1960 remarkable set of facades of residential buildings and and which, along offi ces facing the river. with Malaespera In Bailén street we turn left to rejoin San Francisco and La Abandonada At the beginning of this section on the right hand mines on this hill, street. side there is a long wall that hides the railway line. At and the El Morro mine on the opposite the end of this wall, we see a street of agribusiness side of the river, warehouses built between the 1930s and 1950s; they contained the had a logistically unparalleled location for using the largest and best railway in their business operations. iron deposits of Their current state of dereliction will be changed by the area after the the fi nal project for covering over the current shunting Some of the mining enclaves of yard, but they are a remarkable set of facilities with high warehouses on Ortuella, Sopuerta iconic value in what became one of the industrial areas Particular del and Somorrostro. with the most character in Bilbao. At the head of this Norte street on street is the unique building of the Bodegas Bilbaínas the side facing the San Luis mine (1965). railway line. Wine Warehouse (11), rebuilt in 1941. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND Historical Heritage MERCHANDISE furnishings inside the old factory, now converted into A GREAT COMPANY AND ITS municipal offices. NEIGHBOURHOOD When you reach Zabalburu square, walk up one of its side streets, Pedro Martínez Artola, to connect with the next street, Irala street. When you get to Reyes Católicos street, turn left. On the fi rst corner of the street (Kirikiño) you will see a square with facades covered in murals. This point shows the widespread concept of ‘cheap houses’ both in the city and in Bizkaia. This was a style of building Colourful facades of buildings with backed by many kinds of cooperatives and by companies a clear English style. themselves, who took advantage of the aid and benefi cial concessions provided by laws in the early 20th century. You are in the city district of Irala (12), which is the area that has the most buildings of this type of architecture. In fact, these are houses built by the fl our and bread- making company Harino Panadera, founded by Juan José Irala, from whom the district gets its name. They are the work of Federico Ugalde (p. 28) between 1905 18 and 1917, and a satellite town was created with 565 19 houses in different styles (compact blocks of fl ats, terraced houses divided into fl ats, detached houses - single, double or quadruple). But they all had a very English style, with the principles of “sun, air and water”, in line with the hygienist movement in vogue in Europe which advocated offering healthy housing to employees and workers. Different types of houses in the At this junction between Kirikiño street and Reyes largest property Católicos street you can see a detached house and boom of the terraced houses with facades that have been restored period. in many different colours. If you walk to the top of Kirikiño street and return to the same point by coming down Baiona street and Urizar street, you can see other types of building in this little district. We now head to the industrial heart of the neighbourhood. Returning to Irala street, we turn into Ugalde street and see the bullring below us. We take the fi rst turning on the left and we fi nd the fi nest restored industrial building in Bilbao: Harino Panadera (13). It is an old fl our factory which closed in 1992, built entirely of concrete in 1901, another early application of this material. Of the stunning original manufacturing complex, only the fl our factory building has stood the test of time (it was declared a Monumental Complex in 2005), as well as a spectacular display of historical machines inside Advertisement from 1918, in which the original the building, which currently houses municipal offi ces. factory complex can be seen. Harino Panadera flour mill building. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND 04 Heritage MERCHANDISE NEW AREAS/

Amézola park and residential area. CLASSICAL ENSANCHE/ OLD QUARTER ROUTE 2.3 KM

Below the Harino Panadera factory, you must walk through the new Amézola park and residential complex towards the Azkuna Centre - Alhóndiga (14); this is a cultural centre renovated by Philippe Stark in 2010 from an old wine warehouse designed by Ricardo Bastida (p. 16) between 1905 and 1909. As one of the icons of the new Bilbao, this is probably one of the essential sights of the city that you will already have seen. After visiting it, walk along Fernández del Campo street to Hurtado de Amézaga street. Along this route, on the corner of General Concha street, you will see a building that is the current headquarters of the energy company EDP. Completely renovated inside, it has kept the facade of its original occupant: the Vizcaíno Pharmaceutical Centre (15).

20 Built in 1926 by architect Tomás Bilbao and Hilario Imaz, it 21 initially had 2 fl oors which were extended to 7 current ones in the 1940s. Set up by Bizkaian pharmacists, it centralised the distribution of medicine. Of special interest on the building are the original stone signs with the company name in both streets. You are in the middle of the Ensanche, the enlargement of the original city. It is one of the most interesting in Spain; in fact, it has lasted perfectly throughout the 20th century and as such, it is often said to be the best architectural work in Bilbao. Severino Achúcarro (p. 25), Pablo Alzola (p. 28) and Ernesto Hoffmeyer designed it in 1876, and this fi rst extension presents an interesting layout, with the Gran Vía as the main artery forming a longitudinal axis which leads to the Casco Viejo via the Arenal bridge, punctuated by three squares (the Plaza Circular, the Plaza Elíptica and the Plaza de Sagrado Corazón). The building of the Ensanche area in Abando was a process that was delayed for decades, which meant they were able to learn from the example of Ildefonso Cerdá in Barcelona, with its layout and its street blocks with bevelled fi nishing. It was the response to new needs arising from the fact that the population had tripled in just 20 years and the Casco Viejo old quarter Atrium of the Azkuna Centre - was insuffi cient to house them. With its construction, Bilbao Alhóndiga now and a photo of the Vizcaíno Pharmaceutical Centre. defi nitively jumped onto the left bank of the river and developed interior in 1932. what is now considered to be the centre of the city. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND In the Plaza Circular, we see the BBVA tower (18). 88 m high, in 1969 Heritage MERCHANDISE it replaced the former headquarters building of the Bank of Vizcaya, which merged with the Bank of Bilbao to make FROM HURTADO DE AMEZAGA the current international bank. TO THE ARENAL Next to the station is the building that now houses the tourist offi ce (19). We walk down Fernández del Campo street It was the work of Severino Achúcarro to Hurtado Amézaga street. (p. 25), and opened in 1893 as a Hotel Walking down to the Plaza Circular, that was linked by a direct walkway to you will see the start of the forecourt The Izarra railway the station. In 1949 it became a bank of Abando railway station. Right on the engine, one of the offi ce prior to its current use. corner of García Salazar street the Izarra locomotives that locomotive is on display (16), a jewel in brought the first train the railway heritage crown, as it was one to Bilbao in 1863. of the fi rst locomotives to come to Bilbao in 1863. Before going down to the Plaza Circular, we recommend walking along Bertendona Replacement street to look at the magnifi cent of the former modernist facade of the Campos Elíseos headquarters of the Bank of theatre (17). Opened in 1902, it was the Vizcaya with the result of collaboration between architect modern tower 22 Alfredo Acebal and the French designer block. 1968. 23 Jean Batiste Darroquy. The decor and forms of its facade made Hotel Terminus (now the tourist office) people call it “The Chocolate Box”. and the old Abando station. 1920.

Jean Batiste Darroquy Major French architect involved in the introduction of modernism to the Basque Country between the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. Other works: • Montero House (1904).

The Campos Elíseos Theatre in 1902. It is one of the best examples of modernist architecture. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND Between the two stations you will fi nd This is an interesting point regarding the building of the Stock Exchange by practices at that time; the processing Heritage MERCHANDISE Enrique Epalza (p. 28),from 1905. companies were usually located in the coalfi elds and not the iron mines because The , also known Santander station of the relative cost of transport between In the Plaza Circular is the access to as , is the station La Concordia (21) the two materials. Severino Achúcarro Abando station (20). In 1948, the current for the narrow gauge railways (FEVE) (1841-1910) station replaced the previous one, which connecting Bilbao with other capitals on In Bilbao, it was exactly the opposite, Major fi gure in Basque had been built in 1864. The main facade the Cantabrian coast and the north of because they had the raw material iron avoids railway themes, presenting a architecture in its the peninsula, in the latter case taking next to a river, estuary and a port with evolution towards monumental, classical image with an advantage of the train line that brought superb natural shelter. modernism and Art eclectic mix of pediments, blind arches or coal from inland mining areas to the Nouveau. false pillars, which harmonized with the The station is modernist in style and was Bizkaia steelworks. Other works: surrounding buildings. designed in 1902 by Severino Achúcarro. In the inner atrium we can see the application • Bidebarrieta Library, Once inside, go to the upper level to look of new construction technologies with the originally the liberal club El Sitio (1890). at the large stained-glass window that use of steel. welcomes travellers arriving in the city. • Co-author of the When you go out into Bailén street, you Bilbao Ensanche Back in the lower central hall, turn right can see the facade with its large rose expansion Plan (1876). • Bank of Bilbao and go out and down the stairs at the window, which is considered one of back of the station, and here you will be building in San Nicolás the most genuine legacies of the Belle (1898) (p. 29). able to cross to the back entrance of the Epoque. other, almost adjoining, station.

Abando station. 1864. 24 25

301-piece stained glass window from 1948 in the upper level of Abando station. It shows mining, industry and local customs from Bizkaia’s past. Facade and interior of the station (in riveted steel) of La Concordia. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry Outside the station, we can see the The building of La Bilbaína erected in MINES, MILLS AND Banks of the river in the 1920s, with the La skyscraper that stands on the other side 1913 was the work of Emiliano Amann Heritage MERCHANDISE Bilbaína club and the wooden entrance to the old train station to Portugalete (by Pablo of Bailén street facing the river (22). By and is the second headquarters of Alzola, p. 28). The high density of ships is due Manuel Galíndez, at 43 metres tall it was a club created in 1839. Since then it to the fact that Bilbao was a working port until the tallest building in Bilbao from its has opened its doors to high society Emiliano Amann the 1970s. construction in 1943 until 1969, when the celebrations and events of the city and (1882 - 1942) BBVA skyscraper in the Plaza Circular surrounding areas. Other works: was built. Apart from other facilities for members, • Abra Sailing Club, On the corner of Navarra street is the of interest are its historical collections Getxo (1909). • Nuestra Señora del building that houses the La Bilbaína of newspapers and magazines and its Carmen church in Social Club (23). Both because of its library, its period furniture and its chess Neguri (1910) Getxo. appearance and its function, it is another room, which is now considered the • Building of La expression of the effect that English oldest in Europe. Comercial at Deusto society had on society in Bilbao; a University (1921) (p. 34). In style, the inside of the building relationship backed by intense business • Solokoetxe lift (1931). follows the English architecture of such contacts that means that Bilbao, even • Group of council clubs, with a spiral entry staircase, today, is considered the city with the houses Solokoetxe II topped by a skylight above, resting on (1933). most British air in Spain. columns. • Salesiano school in Deusto (1939).

Manuel Galíndez (1892-1980) One of the major fi gures of the rationalist 26 movement. 27 Some works: • Bank of Vizcaya in Barcelona and Madrid (1930). • La Equitativa building. Bilbao (1934). • La Aurora insurance building. Bilbao (1935). • Bailén skyscraper (1940). • Aznar shipbuilders building. Bilbao (1943). • Houses in Getxo (1945).

The Bailén skyscraper tops things off with an imposing facade of office buildings. Walk 1 IndustryIndustry MINES, MILLS AND Just over the Arenal bridge, you will Before visiting the attractions of see on your right the famous Arriaga the Old Quarter (also known as the Heritage MERCHANDISE Theatre (24), which opened in 1890. It Seven Streets, as this is the number was designed by the architect Joaquín de of roads that the original, small Rucoba (architect also of the City Hall) Bilbao had), and once you have and replaced an earlier one that had crossed the Arenal gardens (the 1895. The old Isabel II stood there since 1833. name ‘arenal’ referred to the sand Bridge and the Arriaga on what was once a beach in the theatre. Note the ‘blood Inspired by the Paris Opera House and tram’, so-called because other central European theatres, it medieval Bilbao), walk to the side it was pulled by horses. happens to have a curved facade not only of St. Nicholas’ church and stop in because of neo-baroque aesthetics, but front of the original building of the also to solve an urban planning hygiene Bank of Bilbao (26), one of the two concern about the end of Bidebarrieta parent companies of the merger with street, which it is aligned with. the Bank of Vizcaya and later with Argentaria to form the international After a fi re in 1914, it was rebuilt by fi nancial entity BBVA. architect Federico de Ugalde, with a project that made it bigger and safer. Although the Bank of Bilbao began operating in 1857, this offi ce was Passing through the Arenal gardens, opened in 1868; designed by the you see the bandstand (25), designed by French architect Lavalle, it was Pedro Izpizua (p.12) in 1923. This highly expanded two decades later in expressive construction is made up of the two phases by Enrique Epalza and space devoted to the music stage above Severino de Achúcarro (p.25). It has and the bar that is located underneath. a magnifi cent banking hall accessible when there are exhibitions open to the public; the facade presents 28 29 an eclectic exercise in the “Beaux Federico de Ugalde Enrique Epalza y Arts” style and has a neoclassical (1873 - 1968) Chafreau (1860 - 1933) compositional touch. Pioneering architect in Some works: Today it remains the headquarters the use of reinforced • Vista Alegre Cemetery concrete. (1896- 1899). of the BBVA and banking operations Some works: • Basurto Hospital were only moved in 1957 to the • La Ceres building (1898-1908) (p. 51). magnifi cent building at Gran Vía 12. (1900) (p. 17). • Building at Uribitarte, • Second Ensanche No.3 (1902). And now to enjoy the attractions project (1905). When he was the of the Casco Viejo old quarter, • Irala-Barri district municipal architect which probably appear in any other (1905-1917) (p. 18). (1896-1903), he wrote • Reconstruction of the the fi rst Project to publication. Arriaga Theatre (1919). extend the Ensanche • Molinos Vascos (along with Alzola and building (1920) (p. 48). Hoffmeyer), which was not carried out.

Pablo Alzola (1841-1912) Other works: • First Ensanche Project (1876). • La Orconera Mining Railway (1876)(p. 63). • New San Antón bridge (1877) (p. 15). Bilbao and Portugalete stations and the lines between the two urban areas (1888) (p. 95). Walk 2

ASSESSMENT ROUTE 8.4 km

INDUSTRY AND RIVER INTERESTING “O Mines, which have made the River! O River, which has made Bilbao!” * (Juan Antonio de Zunzunegui) 01_From the temple of knowledge to the old shipyards IN THE BOTXO 02_Industrial architecture of the twentieth century 03_Back to Bilbao *Popular name by which the City of Bilbao is known, because of its position in a ‘hole’, surrounded by mountains. Walk 2 IndustryIndustry INDUSTRY AND RIVER

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Both Deusto Bridge and the City Hall Bridge were inspired by the Michigan Avenue bascule bridge in Chicago (1920). UNITING RIVERBANKS: DEUSTO BRIDGE 01 In December 1936, the bascule bridge which had been commissioned fi ve years before was inaugurated; it was designed FROM THE TEMPLE OF by engineers Ignacio de Rotaeche and Deusto University José Ortiz de Artiñano with the municipal KNOWLEDGE TO THE OLD in 1920. architect Ricardo Bastida (p. 16). 34 This bridge (3) and the bridge at the City 35 Hall provided a response to the need SHIPYARDS to unite the historic centre of the town DEUSTO UNIVERSITY with the new urban developments in the ROUTE 1.4 KM neighbourhoods of Deusto, Begoña and 1968. Here you can see the logging company that occupied the One of the most urgent needs arising from industrialization Abando. current site of the Guggenheim, the Euskalduna shipyards, one of was the need to educate managers. the bridgeheads of Deusto bridge and the port area with its sheds The river traffi c, fundamental for the and infrastructure. Inaugurated in 1886, the Universidad of Deusto (1) was the dockwork which was done here at answer to this demand. Run by the Jesuits, one of the faculties that time until its transfer to the outer with the highest profi le is the Business School, which was harbour of El Abra, conditioned the founded in 1916. The fi rst graduates from this part of the design of such bridges to allow the university were ahead their time, as it was not possible to study passage of ships. Economics in the rest of Spain for another twenty-fi ve years. Rebuilt after its destruction in the Civil It is made up of several buildings, from the oldest, known as La War (1937), it was renovated in 1974. The Deusto Library next to the Literaria (by José María Basterra and the Marquis of Cubas), The opening of the leaves was one of the auditorium of the Public University. where law studies are taught, to the newest, the library, which iconic sights of Bilbao until 1995; now, opened in 2009. Designed by Rafael Moneo, it is located next to however, it only opens for very special city the Guggenheim and is across the street from the auditorium celebrations. La Cava Houses and the side of the of the UPV-EHU (the Basque public university), designed by The total length of the bridge is 500 m University. Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza. Both architects have won the with a span of 48 m narrowing the channel Pritzker Prize. of the river, which at this point is 71 m, Next to Deusto University, you can see two houses known as with concrete buildings on each side the La Cava (2). Built in 1869 on a family estate, they perfectly where the lifting machinery is located. illustrate the movement of the upper classes from the choked- The leaves swing open to an angle of 70°. The GOBELA barge passes under Deusto bridge in the 1960s. These were vessels for the transport of waste out to sea, including up Old Quarter to the banks of the river before making the leap It has 27 bays, 11 of which cross the river. to Neguri (p. 102). the waste collected by dredges. Walk 2 IndustryIndustry INDUSTRY AND RIVER THE ROAR OF THE TIGER Heritage IN THE BOTXO Walking along the Abandoibarra riverwalk towards the Euskalduna Palace, we see a building topped by a large sculpture of a tiger on the opposite bank (4). The industrial building, designed by Pedro Ispizua (p. 12) in 1940, housed the factory, offi ce and showroom of the Muñoz Mendizabal company which manufactured transmission belts. The Tiger building, In 1942 the sculptor Joaquín Lucarini was commissioned to a transmission belt make the sculpture of the tiger, which is 9 m long. It was the company. icon chosen to project the image of powerful transmission belts which would resist any force. Some say that the owner had an argument with local business people and avenged himself by crowning his factory with a beast that “roars” day and night, looking towards Indautxu, the place where many who despised the humble origins of the owner of this factory lived. After restoration work which maintained its exterior, the building now houses luxury fl ats.

THE EMBLEMATIC SHIPYARD OF BILBAO Following the course of the river is the Euskalduna Conference Centre and Concert Hall (5). Its name comes from the name 36 of the shipyard which stood here before; it opened in 1900 and 37 closed in 1985. The Euskalduna shipyard was located on land occupied by a previous shipyard, the Compañía de Diques Secos, founded in 1868. In the fi rst decade of the twentieth century, the fi rst iron and steam boats in the Basque Country left its dry docks.

The 2 dry docks and the slipway where the Euskalduna Conference Centre and Concert Hall now stands (1966).

Fusion between the current Conference Centre, built in 1999, (work of Federico Soriano and Dolores Palacios with shapes that recall the keel of a ship made of corten steel) and the Maritime Museum with the slipways of the Diques Secos company (1911), the forerunner of Euskalduna. From 1925 on, through new facilities in the neighbouring area of Olabeaga in the nearby valley of Asúa and in Madrid, it used its metalworking expertise and complete installations (from casting to fi nal assembly) to produce, more sporadically, goods such as railway machinery, automobiles, bridges and boilers. Of the old premises, which occupied 90,000 m2, the only things that remain are the Pump House at the bottom, the crane known as Carola as a tribute to the hundreds of cranes that stood upon this coastal landscape of the town not too long ago and fi nally, two of its dry docks with caisson lock gates. Some boats owned by the Maritime Museum are housed in dock number 2. The Pump House was built in 1903. It was a pioneering building for its time because of the use of reinforced concrete beams, allowing it to have a spacious interior Construction and launch of the without any columns in the middle. Its ship the Fernando Poo in 1935. function was to house the pumps (it 38 moved 9,000 m3/hour) for pumping out 39 water and keeping the docks dry. Aerial view and launch in 1974. Of the original three dry docks, only 2 and 3 have been preserved. Dry dock These acts were a social event. no. 2 was part of the infrastructure of the previous company, Diques Secos; it was used to repair and clean ships’ The Pump House and the Carola crane as hulls. Built in 1868, it was expanded in the shipyard is being dismantled and after 1902 by the engineer Recaredo Uhagón its restoration. The crane, built in 1957, (also responsible for the fi rst Sanitation was the most powerful -30 Tn- in Spain. Plan for Bilbao) to increase its capacity. It is a dry dock which is 121 m long, with hydraulic brickwork walls crowned with masonry. Around the same time as dock no. 2 was extended, a third dock was built, also designed by Uhagón. It had a capacity of 11,000 tons (three times dry dock no. 2).

The original motors of the Pump House. We walk to the neighbourhood of based in many of the factories that are Olabeaga. This is an enclave where still standing. most of its inhabitants had jobs related Once you have passed Olabeaga, take to sea (in shipbuilding, as sailors or as the riverside path that connects it to the stevedores). Today, all the landing bays district of Zorroza. and infrastructures devoted to these tasks have gone. The main historical elements are on the COROMINA INDUSTRIAL opposite shore. This was the Ribera de We see the fi rst reference on the right Deusto riverside neighbourhood until a bank, about halfway along the path from huge canal was opened in the 1960s at Olabeaga. It is the Coromina Industrial the rear of the warehouses and fl ats. This factory (6) built in 1923. Two simulations of the new development in this area in the Zaha left the area an isthmus and it will end up Hadid project. The current peninsula will become an island, becoming an island. Of the 8 factory buildings which it once and the new buildings will provide relief for the constant lack of had, only the front building that housed space in the ‘botxo’ or ‘hole’. This is where Bilbao’s next big project for the gatehouse, offi ces and stables the 21st century will be located, turning remains. The elegant frieze of the facade Deusto canal in 1970. it into a residential area and home to was designed by architect Manuel Mª 02 companies with high added value and Smith (p.13). social facilities and keeping the most emblematic old industrial buildings, It is a single block with a gatehouse, INDUSTRIAL Madaleno Palace in a plan designed by the architect housing for the manager on the fi rst fl oor (1898), residence Zaha Hadid, Right now it is mostly a and workshops around a rectangular courtyard made of brick, plaster and tiles of the owner of the ARCHITECTURE OF collection of buildings in decay, ruins or Aurrera company with secessionist stylistic references. mere empty sites where buildings have in Sestao. One of been demolished. In this phase of the Dedicated to the production of carbon the few remaining 40 41 THE TWENTIETH future redevelopment of the area, the dioxide and sulphur dioxide, it was active examples of the neighbourhood known as the Ribera de until 1983, when it was damaged by the mansions built by Deusto hosts activities and art projects torrential rains. It now belongs to the wealthy families CENTURY mooring chains company Vicinay. fleeing the congested historic ROUTE 3 KM quarter, before moving to Neguri. From here, the walk will show you factories and warehouses with 2 optional routes: 1) Continue along this bank beside the river. The route runs mostly on a pedestrian path. You will have a view with greater perspective and less detail, but it will allow you to return to Bilbao by an alternative route. 2) Walk along the opposite bank of the river. You will see the buildings in much greater detail, but you will have to retrace your steps to return to Bilbao. View of the To follow this guide, take route 1 emblematic from the Maritime Museum (www. loading museomaritimobilbao.eus). This museum platform of keeps some of its exhibits in the old dry As in other cases, access to the old factory looked like a house Olabeaga, dock no. 2 and, inside the museum, the that was “clean, human and close to aesthetic residential uses” demolished displays show the close relationship of the to minimize the aggressive activity of the manufacturing. in the 90s. city with the sea over the centuries. Walk 2 IndustryIndustry INDUSTRY AND RIVER Both buildings were designed by engineer José Artiach Gárate, ARTIACH as a member of the family of owners. On the opposite side is an Heritage IN THE BOTXO extension from modern times (the 1950s), a building faced with When we have left Olabeaga, 300 metres further on we see the important red brick and topped by a prominent tower. complex of Artiach Biscuits (7), consisting of 3 buildings. Although the factory was located here since 1921 and was the fi rst building in the state As many as 800 people worked here in the 1970s, of which 600 The sales entry to the designed to accommodate a biscuit factory, a fi re in 1931 made it necessary were women known by the nickname of “galleteras” or “biscuit factory was through to build a new factory. makers”. In this place, a pleasant smell of cinnamon fi lled the the building known as air over other more typical industrial odours. “the church”. The most interesting part is the initial block built in 1937 in the classical style, also known as “the church” because of its Tuscan columns, arches With the fl oods of 1983, the company went on to move its and heavy wooden door welcoming people in. The fi rst two fl oors, fi nished manufacturing to a new plant located in the interior of Bizkaia, in a classical style, contrast with the austere, conventional modern style of leaving this building divided into workshops and various the upper fl oors built in 1965. It is protected and separated from adjacent companies. In the redevelopment of the area, this complex is buildings by walls that form a small square in front of the factory entrance. expected to be kept as a Cultural Centre. The large elongated factory, at right angles to the river, has a predominantly blind facade but is enlivened by the 96 tiny windows on each of its four fl oors. WATER TANK OF THE TUGBOATS IBAIZABAL COMPANY Located on this side of the river, the reservoir for drinking water called Urgozo (8) accumulated 1,800 m3 from a nearby spring which, initially, were collected in the gallery of an old copper mine. Built in 1921 to designs by Gregorio Ibarreche, it facilitated 42 supplies of fresh water to ships that required it, using the cistern 43 tugboat Auntz, now exhibited in the dry dock at the Maritime Museum. From its initial buildings, the house and warehouse next to it have disappeared, demolished in the 1990s when they had served their purpose.

The original factory building has 96 small windows on each of its 4 floors. You can still see the company logo on the side and one of its brands on the front overlooking the river. Water tank seen from the bank opposite the recommended walk. The “biscuit makers” were one of the greatest symbols of the industrial fabric of this area of Bilbao.

Naïve painting of the factory before the fire of 1931.

The 3 buildings that made up the Artiach factory complex with 2 residential buildings forming part of the side overlooking the river Walk 2 IndustryIndustry INDUSTRY AND RIVER BETA BUILDING LANCOR AND CONSONNI Heritage IN THE BOTXO Inserted (9) into the row of houses and factories, These are two different ways of understanding this 1952 building will be preserved in the plan to the architecture of the 1950s (11). remodel the area to house the Centre for Applied The Beta building. Mathematics. Although they are next to each other, fi rst Facade and rear we see the building of Termoelectricidad extension. Until its transfer to another town in Bizkaia, the Consonni, where resistors were produced. This company was engaged in cold metal stamping is a beautiful factory building, built in 1957 and in this building, which consists of a ground fl oor fi nished on the ground fl oor and two upper and two upper fl oors for production, with another fl oors with a neat, elongated, elegant glass upstairs fl oor with housing. It is defi ned by with the front that dominates almost all of its facade. prominent corner tower containing the staircase and It is being considered as a future Museum of a remarkable unevenly laid out rear extension. Technology and Industry to hold all the major industrial collections in Bizkaia. Separated by a narrow yard with a distinctive CROMODURO factory air to it was Elorriaga Industrias Eléctricas (Lancor). This was a production You may not fi nd any remains of this company by complex built in 1958 with a vertical style of the time you do this walk (10). Today, the only part ground fl oor and four upper fl oors of reinforced still standing is the gatehouse and, separated by a concrete covered with dark brown brick, with a plot of land, the skeleton of the former offi ces of the very balanced proportion of windows and walls, company, which produced plastics. The gatehouse in which the stairwell of the facade is an iconic Photo from 1927. The Ribera de Deusto riverside area was in fact part of a wood company that was designed by Manuel element. It was abandoned in 2000. has been, is and will always be an area where houses and Galíndez (p. 27) at the beginning of the century and it uses businesses coexist side by side. this material extensively in this building, as he would do in the 44 45 Maderas Españolas building (p. 46) 800 m further on, which is much better preserved. The old offi ces, in operation until 2010, were the work of Juan de Madariaga in 1969. They were part of a new concept of industrial architecture which emerged around 1970. It was a very impressive two-fl oor building. Supported by a metal frame with two powerful structural lines for the main roof frame and the roof, the front facade is inserted, between them, less visible and totally made of glass. This is a style that is highlighted on the outside sign, which is interesting for its font.

The office The gatehouse and building when office building of the company Cromoduro in its was still active in current state of 2005. neglect. Drawing of the power plant in1894.

Current state of the MEFESA facilities (marked by a diamond logo). You can already see the new buildings of companies that are beginning to emerge from the ruins of other industrial times. The green building in the background is the headquarters of the engineering multinational IDOM.

MEFESA One hundred metres further on we see the last industrial complex visible from the shore we are walking along (12). This is the metallurgical company MEFESA, an industrial complex overlooking the river where you can still see the 46 offi ce building designed by Luis Mª Gana in 1962. ELECTRA DEL NERVIÓN 47 It is very interesting for its spatial organization, with its three fl oors that have a rhythm of windows Before the fl our mill we can see some between remarkably expressive concrete frames industrial facilities surrounded by Current view of and the front, which is covered with glazed galvanized tin sheeting. the old Electra cladding. del Nervión and They occupy the buildings of what used Molinos Vascos. It is a remarkable composition that fi tted in with to be Electra del Nervión (14), the In the case the stylistic criteria of the moment, an opening fi rst electricity power plant in Bilbao, of the power onto the international vanguard, and with the which was founded in 1894 and brought plant, the tin factory building at the end as powerful industrial electricity to all the towns on both sides sheeting still testimony. With the diamond-shaped logo on the of the river. lets you see the offi ce building, the laboratories and chemical shapes of the processing tower, which is very high, it was Under its nondescript fencing are various original destined to become “an architectural landmark.” the original facilities that can still be buildings. seen; the halls and deep hollow spaces Its inner set of tanks and hoists for treating the within, with their semicircular arches It is difficult to see from the left bank, as it is about metal make it simply “a building-machine, an 300 m further on from MEFESA and from the river it is and brickwork friezes. industrial sculpture”. hidden behind a hedge; this building was the gatehouse The surviving factory buildings are and offices of the defunct company Maderas Españolas On our walk along the Alfonso Churruca quay among the oldest industrial buildings (13) (1939-1980), currently owned by Matricería you can see the remains of old loading bays and on the river in Bilbao and one of the few Nervión. Built in 1943, it is another building by Manuel View of the area some explanatory panels about the area and its examples of ‘cathedral factories’ left Galíndez (p. 27) with similar characteristics, sector industrial facilities. in the 1950s and function as the existing Cromoduro. Its rural standing. where loading architecture in the neo-Basque style or the details of But nearing the end of the pedestrian route It originally occupied 3 halls, a boiler platforms and hearts on the shutters uses wood to symbolize the and going round the fi rst industrial facility we building with a chimney 63 m high, now towers for company product and to link it to the craftsmanship of approach what is the jewel of this walk: the demolished, and a transformer room. mining trams the company. abandoned Molinos Vascos mill building. can be seen. Walk 2 IndustryIndustry INDUSTRY AND RIVER Heritage IN THE BOTXO MOLINOS VASCOS Almost immediately after this we fi nd Interestingly, the fl our factory was only Molinos Vascos (15). The work of Federico in operation for 5 years, as it coincided Ugalde (p. 28) in 1924 following the with a time of poor grain harvests and the aesthetics of neo-Basque architecture, it crash of 1929. Until its fi nal abandonment was the second building built of concrete as shown in its present form, the building in Bilbao after another fl our factory: La was used as a warehouse. Ceres (p. 17). In the construction of the factory, several The main building consists of two wings premises of the former Royal Shipyard of at right angles to each other and occupies Zorroza were reused. This was one of the about 1,000 m2 of ground, of which 600 largest shipyards on the Cantabrian coast, is the warehouse and the rest are the and it had been in operation since 1615. silos. The main facade faces the river From that early use as a shipbuilding and runs parallel to the loading quay factory, the building called La Cordelería and the old railway tracks. The part used is preserved, a late seventeenth building as the warehouse has fi ve fl oors with large open spaces topped by a roof in the where the rope for ships’ rigging was neo-Basque style that makes the building made by twisting and spinning hemp. unmistakable. Today you can see the few remains of one But the most distinctive feature of this the ends of the building, but the original construction are the 15 enormous silos building was over 400 metres long over measuring 22 metres, each capable of 2 fl oors and was used for spinning and storing up to 75 tons of grain. braiding hemp rigging for ships. 48 49

View of the back with the silos, with the The building behind Molinos Vascos is the section that end of the old ropeworks. remains of the old ropeworks of the Royal Shipyard of Zorroza. The building is about 400 metres long, as shown in a drawing of the period.

Iron Bridge (16) by Pablo Alzola (p. 28), built in 1888 for the Bilbao-Portugalete railway (designated as being of Cultural Interest). It crosses the Cadagua river with a span of 65 metres without intermediate supports. Today, it still has one of the 2 caissons of the original bridge. Walk 2 IndustryIndustry INDUSTRY AND RIVER 03 Heritage IN THE BOTXO BACK TO BILBAO ROUTE 4 KM

We can do this in 2 ways: 1) By public transport in Zorroza by taking the train (RENFE) or the buses that go to the city centre. 2) Walking back along the road on the wide pavement that runs parallel to the road and from which you can enjoy a view of the same route but higher up.

With the height that the walk back gives View of the us, we can see buildings from the road hospital buildings that are hardly noticeable from the level of with their gardens the river. and characteristic tiled roofs.

50 TARABUSI 51 Tarabusi office building behind the city pound. This is the case with Tarabusi (17). BASURTO HOSPITAL This is a factory dating from 1945 which At the Hospital (19), we urge you to enter the main gate to look was a major production complex for List of donations Neighbourhoods built at a time when laws made houses cheaper at its landscaped garden areas and buildings that, although electromechanical constructions and from wealthy because of housing cooperatives or because companies built still evolving with the times, have kept their original style. transformers. The only part that is left is Bilbao families houses for their employees. These were then known as ‘cheap at the main houses’. this building at the end of the municipal Again we see a work that recalls English architecture of turn pound. Previously, it housed the offi ces of the century, as a sign of the aesthetic inclination of this city entrance of the hospital complex. Firstly the neighbourhood of Santiago, built in 1924 by the of the company and in the ambitious towards British taste. Employees Cooperative of the Bilbao to Portugalete Railway; in the Remodelling Plan for the area it is background, the Santa Ana estate by Ismael Gorostiza (p. 81) in expected to be used for the work of a The municipal architect Enrique Epalza (p. 28) with Dr. José 1931, which was promoted by a cooperative made up of employees foundation dedicated to the study of cities. Carrasco, director of the Atxuri Hospital and later Basurto, of the Hospital and the Euskalduna shipyard. toured the most modern medical centres in Europe, and took If you have made the return journey by bus as their model the management and design of the hospital of or walking, you will enter Bilbao through Ependorff in Hamburg, one of the most innovative of the time. the neighbourhood and hospital of Basurto. It was begun in 1898 and completed 10 years later with Shortly before reaching the hospital, on 600 beds and it remains the main hospital of the city, the other side of the road you can see substituting the old hospital in Atxuri (p. 13). The money to two rows of council houses called “cheap build the Hospital was raised through donations from the houses” (18). wealthy of Bizkaia. Their names can be seen on the stones Although on walks 1 and 4 there are that line the walls of the main entrance where, in many of other examples of this type of residential them, they indicate the compensation for the contribution architecture, if you have the opportunity of the benefactor, for example, beds in perpetuity. We leave to get closer you will see how their the hospital on Avenida Montevideo and continue until the design refl ects the three-fold principles street changes its name to Autonomía. This was an area of the hygienist movement in the early of workshops and companies including most notably the twentieth century for workers’ homes: Cervecera del Norte, demolished in 1995. sun, air and water. Walk 2 IndustryIndustry INDUSTRY AND RIVER THE ENGINEERING FACULTY Heritage IN THE BOTXO Taking Luis Briñas street towards the river, we fi nd the Faculty of Engineering (22) of the University of the Basque Country, next MUNICIPAL WORKSHOPS ZANKOETA DISINFECTION to the modern stadium of San Mamés. The Faculty was founded in 1899 and although it is composed of Upon reaching the crossroads at Sabino CENTRE several buildings, the one next to San Mamés is from 1958, the Arana, 200 metres to the right you will work of Jesús Rafael Basterrechea and part of the modernist see the building dedicated to municipal The old Disinfection Centre of the city movement. Together with Deusto University, it is the great warehouse (20). The construction from has stood in this short street since 1918 educational landmark of the city. 1915 was designed for storing fl ammable (21). Located near the hospital, it was and hazardous materials. designed by Ricardo Bastida (p. 16); its appearance is infl uenced by Catalan Although you can see many decorative modernism, with masterful use of brick elements on the facade (pilasters, SANTA CASA DE LA MISERICORDIA and ceramics. mouldings, railings), the whole building As the fi nal highlight of this tour, on the other side of the area is made of reinforced concrete and Although today it is a district Civic where the Engineering Faculty is located, we can see the the internal distribution is made up Centre, its original function was to monumental late neoclassical building of the Santa Casa de la of numerous spaces divided by doors combat and contain epidemics that Misericordia (23) with its large romantic gardens which are open of thick steel that could prevent the ravaged a city where many residents to the public. possible spread of any fi re to other areas attracted by the industrial boom were of the building. subject to overcrowding and terrible This was an entity dedicated to helping the poor. It was set up Retracing our steps, we go down Sabino sanitary conditions. nearly 300 years ago and was the fi rst social service that was built outside the boundaries of the Old Quarter, to be located in Arana to Zankoeta, the third street on Inside you can see numerous machines this building in 1872. The outline of the Faculty of Engineering, the left. and objects related to its original typical of the modernist movement of 52 function. In fact, its haste to install itself in this area made it a reference the mid-twentieth century, silhouetted 53 when designing the extension of the Ensanche, as its gardens against the contemporary architecture of became the outer limit of the Extension Plan. San Mamés stadium.

1927. Old Deposit for inflammable and dangerous materials, today the Municipal Workshops and in the near future a new police station.

Painting from 1900 where you can see the bulk of the 1935. Ambulances in front Santa Casa de la Misericordia in the background in an of the Disinfection Centre. area that was still sparsely built up. Walk 3

ASSESSMENT ROUTE “Red mines of my Bizkaia, you 9 km are a deep wound in the green IRON: THE RED UNMISSABLE mountain!” (Esteban Urquiaga, Lauaxeta)

01_Larreineta funicular railway EXTENSIONS 02_La Arboleda - Zugaztieta 1_Mining remains between Kobaron and Pobeña (10 Km) 03_Miners and mines: the devoured mountain 2_El Pobal foundry (10 Km) GOLD OF BIZKAIA 04_Ortuella 3_La Encartada textile factory (18 Km) Walk 3 IndustryIndustry IRON: THE RED Heritage GOLD OF BIZKAIA

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HOW TO GET THERE By train: Take a Renfe Cercanías train from EXTENSIONS Abando Station, line C2 to the Valley of Trápaga (Old name: San Salvador del Valle). Get off at: Valle de Trápaga - Trapagaran. 1km away from the funicular railway. By bus: Bizkaibus, A3336 and A3337 (Bilbao-Muskiz). Get on at: Hurtado de Amézaga (in front of 10 Abando station). Get off at: Bus stop 4912 (in front of Trapagaran Town Hall). 300 m. from the funicular railway. Walk 3 IndustryIndustry IRON: THE RED 01 From top to Heritage bottom: The GOLD OF BIZKAIA ‘Funi’ without LARREINETA its carriages in 1926; the carriages in MINES, MILLS AND MERCHANDISE FUNICULAR operation until the 1990s and This route takes us to see the mining greatly but it was a system that required the modern remains of the richest vein of iron ore low-phosphorus iron, which was scarce RAILWAY train managed in Europe; it was also the cheapest, in Britain and abounded in Bizkaia, so The funicular railway opened in 1926 nowadays by the because it was opencast. It was ore with foreign capitalists set their sights on the public company (1) after 5 years under construction, very low phosphorus and with a high mountains of Triano, with its ideal raw Eusko Tren. and it runs from the La Escontrilla concentration of iron (there were different material for this kind of furnace, its low neighbourhood in the Valley of Trápaga types, including ore known as ‘the vein’ or costs and its ability to work opencast all to Larreineta every half an hour. It is the hematite, which was 60% iron, ‘campanil’ the year round. With the work of the Provincial Council engineer or goethite, which was 55% iron and ‘rubio’ intensive The decline of this famous 25 km-long vein Francisco Guinea. The journey, at 2 m/s, or limonite, which was 53% iron). This was mining, both that juts out into the sea began when the takes just 10 minutes; it is 1,200 m long, wealth that had been known about since the landscape richest seams were used up to feed the rising to a height of 342 m on an incline of ancient times, as shown by the Roman and the large steel mills along the Bilbao estuary. 35%. You will see great panoramic views health of the remains found in the area. The Roman Competition then came from other types of of the valleys that lead down to the river inhabitants historian Pliny the Elder (1st century AD) ore following the invention of the Siemens- and the port of El Abra. Diego de Basterra y were severely talked about a mountain of iron. “In the Martin furnace system, which could Berastegui affected. part of Cantabria which is bathed by the Originally its purpose was to transport (1883-1959) already work with ore containing high Since the sea there is a rugged high mountain made miners and mine trucks, as access to levels of sulphur. Logically, this operation Other works: time that the all of iron, an amazing and wonderful the top of the mountain was very diffi cult was labour-intensive and people began to • Institute and School mines closed, thing.” because of the rugged terrain. The 58 significant come from neighbouring provinces to work of the Chamber of 59 funicular also has a peculiarity that makes Commerce in Bilbao. efforts have In the Middle Ages, a whole network of in the mines, which ended up attracting it stand out over other cable railways of the With Ricardo Bastida been made to commercial routes built up around the ore, thousands who wanted to get away from period: the line curves to the right to reach (1927). redirect living with iron sent to the rest of Europe through the impoverished world of farming. the upper station, a characteristic not • Elejabeitia house. conditions in the monasteries, which helped shape the Using the funicular railway or driving up by shared by many other cable railways. Deusto, Bilbao (1933). the area, as image of the ‘Biscay iron’ made in the • Provincial Institute of car, we propose a visit to the mining areas can be seen foundries here. More intensive exploitation Other features include a gauge of 1,200 Hygiene. Bilbao (1934). and the towns and neighbourhoods created from the two of the ore came from 1865 onwards, with mm and the fact that the carriages are • Several schools in around them. It was an economic activity pictures (1909 exports targeted at Great Britain and its removable. The carriage bodies are Bilbao (until 1936). and now) of that marked an era and turned Bizkaia into Bessemer converters. This invention had positioned horizontally on platforms, the Putxeta the most prosperous of all the areas on the brought down the cost of steel production and as the two stations on the line have neighbourhood Atlantic coast. in the area of overhead cranes, they can be removed Abanto. easily. As a result, the platform can be left empty, which in the past made it possible to transport vehicles of all types, with a maximum load of 9.5 tons. In fact, because of the poor access road to Larreineta, this service was used daily by delivery trucks, fi shmongers, charcoal sellers and even the hearse. Used before Despite by over a million passengers every year, successive today this has fallen to a third of that fi gure. renovations, the original 1926 The line was renovated in 1985 and until equipment built 15 years ago, was the longest in the state. by the Swiss Its two stations are a good example of company Brown regionalist architecture in the neo-Basque Boveri still style, designed by Diego de Basterra. works. Walk 3 IndustryIndustry IRON: THE RED La Arboleda, main square. On the left, the building Heritage GOLD OF BIZKAIA which was the ‘casa del pueblo’ social club of the socialist party and trade union of 1888, built only 11 years after La Arboleda was founded. In short, this is a cultural landscape which combines the remains of countless mining infrastructures embedded in a landscape of great environmental quality and biodiversity that is absolutely unique in the Basque Country. In this area there were hundreds of mines (292 in 1890) 02 of all sizes, the most important of which were initially set up as joint ventures between local and foreign LA ARBOLEDA - entrepreneurs: “The Orconera Iron Ore Cº Ltd.”, “The Bilbao River and Cantabrian Railway Cº Ltd.”, “Luchana Mining Cº Ltd.”, “Société Franco-Belge des mines de ZUGAZTIETA Somorrostro”, “J.B. Rochelt”, until it became known as 60 “The California of Iron”. 61 ROUTE 1.3 KM By the 1950s, the veins were nearly mined out; in 1963 the export of iron ore stopped, and the last mine in this area closed in 1986. From Larreineta to La Arboleda there is a 1 km walk past fi elds and what are La Arboleda (3) was founded in 1877 to house the now lakes, which have formed as a result Original miners’ huts from the first settlements of workers right next to the mines. They came from every of the rising water level in the old open miners. corner of the Iberian Peninsula and lived in conditions cast mines. They had curious names that, even today, can be seen here in its houses, streets such as “Matamoros”, “Las Cármenes”, A typical wood-panelled house in La Arboleda. and landscape. It is the most representative display “El Negro”, “Elvira”, “La Parcocha”, View of the road linking They were buildings that were usually inhabited of mining life and, in its heyday became known by the “Los Alemanes”, “La Mamen”, “Cantera Larreineta to the town of La by one family, and in many cases people brought nickname ‘El Dorado’. Macho” and “El Ostión”. Arboleda which can be seen in extra money by taking in lodgers. in the background. To the They were hard years, in which men, women and This last one occupied the large space left of the route, you can see children worked in extreme conditions, living in to the left of the road (2). A remarkable the effect that the mining overcrowded huts or tiny houses, and disease and environmental job has been made of had on the landscape. This death were the order of the day; in fact, at one point, life recovering the shattered landscape, and used to be El Ostión open- expectancy was only 20. you can see the remains of the old mines cast mine. The poor quality of life and unfavourable working as part of an illustrative, enjoyable walk View of El Ostión mine in through newly replanted trees and grass conditions led to the creation and development of trade full operation in the early unions and anarchist, socialist and communist politics that now carpet the faces of the mine. twentieth century. together with movements with Catholic roots, turning It is a beautiful, harmonious combination The area around La it into the cradle of the workers’ rights movement in of the mother rock, bared by mining, and Arboleda has been Bizkaia. the trees and shrubs that cling to the transformed into a zone of rocks with their roots. environmental protection, It was in La Arboleda that the fi rst workers’ strikes with a collection of Corten started; they struck great fear into the Bilbao steel sculptures. bourgeoisie and became long and bloody. Walk 3 IndustryIndustry 03 IRON: THE RED The place is more reminiscent of a Welsh mining Heritage GOLD OF BIZKAIA village than traditional towns of the area. You MINERS AND MINES: THE can still see houses with wooden walls which replaced huts full of bunk beds lit with carbide * lamps where miners slept in a ‘warm bed’ shift DEVOURED MOUNTAIN Transportation and hauling system. systems were very disparate In fact, the disappearance of the huts was one ROUTE TO GALLARTA: 6 KM and each company had of the main demands of the workers in the great their own, without any strikes of 1890 and 1903. By 1911 most of the Until the great mining era, the inhabitants of the valley of collaboration between them, buildings were already stone, forming a motley Somorrostro and Barakaldo combined agricultural work with which also contributed to the neighbourhood where about 3,000 people lived. extracting and hauling ore to the ports. enormous environmental damage. In 1913 the Catholic trade unionist Jacques Ownership of the Triano mountains until the late nineteenth century Line of buckets at the Valdour described La Arboleda as “a village of was in the hands of the seven councils of the Valley of Somorrostro, Chávarri mines (1883) and small dirty, black houses, built hastily out of which distributed it for communal use (such as forests for wood used the Orconera cable railway wood or brick or mud so light that sometimes in foundries, homes, shipbuilding and construction). connecting the calcining kilns the northern facade is protected with timber. to its own railway (1925). Dirty alleys separate meagre, uncomfortable, dark and poorly maintained accommodation”. Later, amenities were added that made this a settled place to live, including a hospital, schools, an asylum-hospice, a company store, a circle of Catholic workers, a ‘casa del pueblo’ In 2012 one of these small (social club of the socialists), a Civil Guard houses (1880) in Ganerantz barracks, a cinema and the parish church street was restored so that dedicated to San Salvador. 62 people can visit it and see the 63 conditions of domestic life of The urban fabric started creating a grid pattern the time. of streets around a central square. This square brought order to the village and was where such Reservations: meatzaldea.eus amenities as the parish church, the bandstand and the headquarters of the unions would be located. La Arboleda is a must for anyone interested in gastronomy because of its restaurants, where the ‘alubiada’ bean stew is the speciality of the 1887 watercolour of the area. Even with this attraction, today there are neighbourhood around Arkotxa only about 16 restaurants out of the 24 bars in which you can see various there were in its heyday. railways, the aerial tramway linking the Union and Amistosa From here you can extend your excursion by mines and a cable railway. walking above the village to the Peñas Negras interpretation centre (about 2 km away) where you will fi nd both mining remains and explanations of the natural surroundings. If you do not have enough time, we recommend that you keep to the proposed route. This is a walk that leads us to Gallarta along a new road. In 6 km, we can see remains of the La Arboleda miners’ hospital 1880-1896, now gone. The harsh working conditions were reflected by the existence aerial tramways, digging machines, ventilation of three miners’ hospitals. Although they were built by the shafts for the mine galleries, huts, kilns... major companies, workers were required to contribute 2% of

their wages towards maintaining the hospitals. *Texts: ezagutubarakaldo.net Walk 3 IndustryIndustry IRON: THE RED Heritage GOLD OF BIZKAIA

The use of the mountains was The iron ore was found on the surface of Borers with a unregulated, work was simply prohibited the soil. The mining system was similar steam hammer. outside the summer months and the to that of a quarry, using explosives 1920. number of animals for haulage was to separate great blocks of ore. After limited. blasting, the ore was broken up with picks and hoes, removing the debris Until the nineteenth century, iron ore with rakes and baskets. could be taken from the mountains without title deeds or any specific They started by loading the material limitation. In order to extract the ore it onto mules, which were then replaced was enough to place a cross made of by inclined plane cable railways (from stones on the ground, to show that the 1867), aerial tramways (1872) and site was in operation. railways (1865), which would take the ore to the 23 loaders along the river. This was because the size of the seams was proportionate to the lack From 1895, the richest ore began to run of consumption, and the metal had no out, so they started to reuse what had appreciable value. Ore was mined as if been discarded at first (known by the one were chopping wood. name of ‘txirta’). To do so, new devices were used and a final product with The mining laws of 1859 and 1868 allowed greater extension a higher level of iron was produced; of mines and suppressed limits of ownership. Mines were washeries to take away clay and earth demarcated, even when they were not mined, around the most (in 1899, 17 washeries were recorded important areas and the largest tracts of land ended up in the 64 with 49 trommel washing drums) and 65 hands of the big companies. calcining kilns to separate the ore from At the end of the Third Carlist War, in 1874, the real explosion other rocks (in 1919 there were 45 fully in mining in the region occurred. The iron mines of Bizkaia operational kilns). and Cantabria brought in the latest technology and the best As an example of how much was mined technicians and engineers of the time, with technologically in these mountains, the Orconera Iron pioneering infrastructure. Ore Cº Ltd., one of the main companies, The mine was a new, unknown world, with new concepts and exported more than 7 million tons new jobs appearing; borers, ponymen, labourers, foremen, during the last years of the 19th century As with many other traditional activities, scalesmen, mine boys, company stores, guitars, bowling, (approximately 20% of the ore in the all that remains of the hard work of the country dances, mining accidents and strikes. Bizkaia mining area). In 1894 alone, mines are the popular games such as more than 1 million tons of ore were borer contests (borers were responsible The workday was not established in duration by any extracted, of which over 80% were for opening holes for inserting sticks of regulation. At the beginning, there were mines where people exported abroad. dynamite), which can still be seen in the worked longer than from sunrise to sunset at the time of year village festivals of the area. with shorter days, and were only paid per day worked. In these mines, one of the factors of great importance for the later The harsh conditions around the mines (the rise in cost of economic development of Bizkaia was living, the compulsory purchase of commodities in company the difference between mine owners stores operated by the foremen, hours and safety conditions) (mostly local) and leaseholders who meant that life expectancy for those born in this area did not worked them (usually foreign capital exceed 20 in the late nineteenth century. This situation led companies). Most of the capital to 30 partial strikes and 5 general strikes between 1890 and accumulated by local land-owning 1910. Among the achievements of this succession of revolts, families was destined for reinvestment the most important were the elimination of the system of in industrial infrastructures on the Photos of the 1910 strike, which lasted 70 days. Soldiers protecting a train canteens and the reduction of hours to 9.5 hours (the workday banks of the river. was not reduced to 8 hours until 1919). belonging to the Orconera company, members of the strike committee and the evacuation of children from the mining area to Portugalete. Walk 3 IndustryIndustry IRON: THE RED Heritage GOLD OF BIZKAIA

THE GREAT IRON MINE: CONCHA II OR BODOVALLE This walk ends at the enormous hole left by the last iron mine in operation: the Concha II mine (when it was operated by the Franco-Belga company) or Bodovalle (under the control of Agruminsa) (4). Its opening in 1960 The Mining Museum, with its old building in the old slaughterhouse marked the total displacement of the old town of Gallarta, of Gallarta and the building work on its spectacular new extension and the town you can see today is almost entirely the overlooking the mine. result of this move. It was operated by the Altos Hornos de Vizcaya iron and steel company through its subsidiary 66 Agruminsa until it closed in 1993 because it was not 67 profi table. With 500 workers, in the 1970s it became the second largest iron mine in Europe. The mine you can see is 700m long, 350 m wide and 150 m deep. The bottom is 37 m below sea level, which explains the current fl ooding with the water that can be seen at the bottom. This is the result of having used up the iron ore on the surface, which meant that operating permits were obtained in 1984 for underground galleries stretching over 50 km below the surface. Inside, it contains great chambers as big as a cathedral. Next to the mine is the building of the old slaughterhouse, now the Mining Museum (5) (www.meatzaldea.eus) and The old town of Gallarta was demolished in 1960 with dynamite its future extension next to with its spectacular balcony to make way for the Concha II or Bodovalle mine. overlooking the mine pit. This Museum explains the use of iron in various historical periods but basically it focuses on explaining the items that were recovered when the mines were abandoned. It is worth looking at the model that explains the change of location of the town of Gallarta and its replacement by the Bodovalle mine, and the model which explains the profusion of individualized miners’ transports of all kinds allocated to each mining company, illustrating to a great extent the radical change in the landscape well beyond mining activities. Walk 3 IndustryIndustry IRON: THE RED Cable railway and distribution facilities of the Franco-Belga company in Ortuella (1912). Heritage GOLD OF BIZKAIA

04 ORTUELLA ROUTE: 2.5 KM

Take the road that goes downhill next to the Ortuella was the main distribution centre of iron ore to Mining Museum. You walk through an area the loaders along the river. There used to be 23 loaders, that has now been turned into an industrial but only this one in Barakaldo belonging to the Franco- estate, but which previously was full of the Belga company has been rebuilt. kilns, washeries and other mining facilities, and you reach Ortuella station, with its train line that runs down to Bilbao. Apold-Fleissner kiln opposite the Sagrada Familia station. Ortuella was a crucial point in redirecting the ore to the many loading points along the river. Opposite the station, if you cross the railway lines, you can see a kiln (6) datado a mediados del s. XX. Pero el conjunto dating from the middle of the twentieth century. However, the most 68 interesting rehabilitated set of buildings is 69 1 km away, in the Granada industrial estate; two Apold-Fleissner kilns (7) converted into a centre for the interpretation of this technology and declared of Cultural Interest in 2008. Built in 1961 by the Franco-Belga company, they are formed of twin buildings which contain the kilns and a central structure attached to them. Moreover, there were metal stairs on the outside, allowing access to some fl oors from others and access to the different platforms, now gone. It was for calcining iron carbonate, in order to achieve higher grade ore. The ore was transformed using hot air at 800°C, blown directly in by blowers at half height, and its construction was inspired by Austrian and Italian models, adapted to the specifi c needs of the Biscayan ore. This new production system was an evolution over the old kilns, allowing effective transformation of the ore without needing to mix the load with any fuel, which gave This kiln worked at full capacity in the years 1961-1975. Between 1873 and 1912, four laws were passed to protect both women (who worked in better results. Its function was the calcination of iron carbonate to the ore washeries and in haulage) and children (who worked in the wells from the age To return to Bilbao, you can catch the train produce higher grade ore. It could produce up to 600 of 11) from labour abuses. These laws took years to be obeyed. at the nearby station of Sagrada Familia. tons a day. In the photo, women at the Orconera washery. 1930s. Walk 3 IndustryIndustry HIERRO:IRON: THE EL RED ORO Heritage ROJOGOLD DEOF BIZKAIA Work at the Amalia Vizcaína mine, c. 1920. EXTENSION 1 You have to go to the neighbourhoods of either Pobeña or Kobaron in Muskiz, both located on the coast. This walk has MINING REMAINS BETWEEN two ends linked by a cliff path that uses the route of the old mining railway for the KOBARON AND POBEÑA mines run by Joseph MacLennan (2.4 km). At the top of the cliff at Pobeña (8) you ROUTE: 10 KM FROM ORTUELLA will see the remains of the Orconera washery, which was connected to the mines of La Arboleda by Europe’s largest aerial tramway of the time (8 km). It was in operation between 1910 and 1945. The same aerial tramway was used for the return of the ore after it had been washed using sea water; it was then moved to the company loaders in the river using the mining railway. 70 71 Oddly, the loader (operating until 1963) which is below the Orconera company installations belonged to the MacLennan company, which owned several mines in the area of Kobaron. It is a good example of the lack of collaboration between Current state of the kilns. different companies for the mutual use of infrastructures. In Kobaron you will see remnants of equipment and facilities of various mines (the Amalia Vizcaína, the Josefa and the Demasía a Complemento). They began mining there in the 1880s and closed 90 years later.

El Castillo loader (1877), of the MacLennan mine, in full operation in 1908. Current state.

Orconera aerial tramway over the marshes at Pobeña; you can see the washery section at the top of the hill. Walk 3 IndustryIndustry HIERRO:IRON: THE EL RED ORO Heritage ROJOGOLD DEOF BIZKAIA

This is a Historical Monument (9) because of its historical value. To get there by car, you must take the Santander road to Muskiz, the next town. Take the road to Sopuerta, and 4 km further on you will see the car EXTENSION 2 park at the entrance to this building. Here you can see a real demonstration of how iron was worked before industrialised production. As a Museum, it is the only surviving example of hundreds of river ironworks EL POBAL FOUNDRY in Bizkaia; it was here that they produced the famous ‘Bizkaian iron’. ROUTE: 10 KM FROM ORTUELLA

72 73

Hydraulic machinery.

Forge area.

Founded in the 16th century, it stayed in production as the last ironworks with the manufacture of tools, implements and wagons until its closure in 1965, when it was unable to compete with industrialized products. www.elpobal.com Closed on Mondays. Saturdays: live demonstrations of iron production. Walk 3 IndustryIndustry IRON: THE RED Heritage GOLD OF BIZKAIA EXTENSION 3 LA ENCARTADA TEXTILE FACTORY ROUTE: 18 KM FROM EL POBAL

Office accounting annexe of the production workshop.

Located just outside the medieval town of Balmaseda, it is an authentic temple to industry (10) with a factory that has been 74 turned into a museum, its infrastructure and machinery kept 75 intact since 1892. Precisely because it used the same machinery until its closure in 1992, it is a gem; you can see the technology of the era in situ with fi delity that is very hard to fi nd in other places. Until its closure, La Encartada maintained a complete production line and facilities for staff that made it a small industrial colony. They bought the wool raw, spun it and then turned it into berets (its main product), blankets, towels, scarves, socks, skeins or balaclavas. Closed on Mondays.

Wool carding machines using dried thistles.

www.laencartadamuseoa.com Walk 4

ASSESSMENT ROUTE 12 km “I do not think there’s anything UNMISSABLE in the Peninsula that would give ONE RIVER, a greater impression of strength, work and energy as these fourteen 01_Barakaldo. The industrial leader or fifteen kilometres of waterway” 02_Sestao. The factory city 03_Portugalete. Fusion of both sides of the river (Pío Baroja) TWO WORLDS 04_Getxo. The mansions of the industrialists Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, Heritage TWO WORLDS

HOW TO GET THERE 26

Metro: Bagatza. Leave the metro station by the G. Aresti street exit.

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17 18 Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, A SUCCESSION OF “CHEAP Heritage TWO WORLDS HOUSES” 01 In the section that begins this route, you can see different types of this BARAKALDO. sort of social building, all designed by Ismael Gorostiza. At the corner of Gabriel Aresti, in the direction of the route, THE INDUSTRIAL you see the group of houses called “El THE CHEAP HOUSES: HUMANIST Ahorro” (1) in the street of the same name on the right; to the left, the houses LEADER ARCHITECTURE of “La Felicidad”, also with a ground fl oor and 3 upper fl oors. The name does not refer to cost of the houses. It is a name ROUTE: 1.3 KM of the laws enacted in the fi rst third of the 20th century; these At the next junction, “La Providencia”, laws refl ected the state aid given to promotions driven by still has examples of semi-detached ACCESS: METRO TO THE BAGATZA STATION. workers’ cooperatives or by the companies for their workers. low-rise housing. Lower down, in Most of the names of these housing groups were a Ferrerías street, there remains one of The types include all kinds of constructions: blocks of fl ats, LEAVE THE STATION BY THE GABRIEL ARESTI reflection of the aspirations or ethical values of the time. the fi nest groups: “La Tribu Moderna” terraced houses and detached houses. STREET EXIT. (2), a residential group organized around Their confi guration, structure and courtyards of 4 houses with a small START OF THE ROUTE: GABRIEL ARESTI STREET TOWARDS THE RIVER - SAN JOSÉ STREET – FERRERÍAS level of fi nish were different depending garden and a rear courtyard. on the income of the workers, STREET - MUNIBE STREET- CERVANTES STREET. technicians or employees. Ismael Gorostiza (1879-1965) Barakaldo and Sestao were home to most of the heavy industry of Bizkaia, and during much of the twentieth century These groups of houses, of which Other works: 80 had the largest concentration of the iron and steel industry in Spain. These were factories that fi lled the river plain 81 there are still over 50 throughout • Miranda Foundation (now the Music School). St. (where this route takes you), and the inland valley on the other side of the hills where both these towns are located. Bizkaia, followed similar proposals Vicente-Barakaldo (1911). A refl ection of this intensive industrial employment was the proliferation of residential groups that went under the carried out in France and • Los Hermanos School (1915). • La Unión Begoñesa. Bilbao (1925). name of “casas baratas”. Both towns harbour almost 50% of all these houses in all Bizkaia, although many of these Britain, and refl ected the three-pronged approach of • Bide-Onera Consumer Group department store. houses were replaced by buildings with higher density to accommodate the large infl ux of immigrants in the 1950s Barakaldo (1926). the Hygienist movement in and 60s. In fact, along with the provincial capital, Bilbao, and Getxo with its palaces, these towns present the fi nest • Barakaldo market (1928). examples of residential and public architecture that arose out of industrialization. response to the overcrowding • Santa Ana group of houses. Bilbao (1928) (p. 50). of the working classes; air, • Large numbers of houses and cooperative housing sunlight and water. groups (La Tribu Moderna, El Porvenir, La Familiar, Group of cheap houses built in 1920. From left to right: Group “El Ahorro” (Saving), “La Felicidad” (Happiness), “La Providencia” El Hogar Futuro, El Buen Pastor...). (Providence) and “La Tribu Moderna” (The Modern Tribe). In the photograph of the latter, dating from the 1960s, the tracks of the Franco-Belga mining railway can still be seen, and its present appearance after the rails were replaced by a cycle path. Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, Munibe street continues and turns into Cervantes Moving towards the river Galindo we see street, which runs down to the park where formerly on our right the ‘classical temple’ called Heritage TWO WORLDS part of the plant of Altos Hornos de Vizcaya (AHV), the Edifi cio Ilgner (5); from 1927 it housed steelworks was located, the central symbol of the the 2 generators that provided power for productive wealth of the region. the rolling mills of Altos Hornos. Before passing under the railway tracks, you can It is noted for its rationalism in the see in Murrieta street (3) a group of houses that use of reinforced concrete without any illustrate the architectural richness of that time ornamentation, with walls pierced by long in Barakaldo. They are Modernist buildings, in a windows that help to create a feeling of Santos Zunzunegui (1875-1945) Viennese variant, dating from different phases lightness. Its textural quality is endorsed between 1914 and 1924 and designed by the other by the use of brick in the cladding. Sestao municipal architect for 32 great architect of the area: Santos Zunzunegui. years. After its rehabilitation in 1998, it now Other works: houses the headquarters of several • Charles VII Municipal School (now THE DESIERTO PLAIN new business initiatives, and one of the the Music School). Sestao (1912) original generators has been preserved (p 93). After crossing under the railway track, we arrive inside. It is one of the best examples • Ramón Vicuña House on the at what used to be the installations of AHV, an of the conversion of an outstanding esplanade of Portugalete (1915) (p. esplanade which is the extension of the ‘new’ industrial building for new uses. 100). Barakaldo for residential, business and leisure • Large numbers of houses and purposes. The fi rst thing you can see is the new Opposite the Ilgner there are 2 bridges cooperative housing groups (La football pitch of Lasesarre (4), designed by Eduardo spanning the river Galindo; the town of Esperanza, La Humanitaria, La Sestao is on the other side. Unión, La Protectora, La Aurora…) Arroyo and opened in 2003. It replaces the old pitch in the area. located across the railway line, where there is a This meeting point of the river Galindo • Iberia cinema (1930). Now gone. sports centre today and where for decades the fans and the river Nervión was for much of • Restoration of Portugalete Hotel of Barakaldo FC used to sit among the smells and the 20th century the largest concentration (1938) (p. 96). 82 smoke of the businesses in the area. of industry in the whole of Spain. Behind 83 you, on the side belonging to Barakaldo, was the steelworks Nuestra Señora de El Carmen en 1855 (which became Murrieta houses, built in different phases. Contemporary architecture at the Lasesarre football field. Altos Hornos de Bilbao in 1882). Along with the steelworks of La Vizcaya and La Iberia (both in Sestao), they would end up merging into the great company Altos Hornos de Vizcaya in 1902. Ahead, the whole of the bank of the Nervión on the Sestao side was a conglomeration of three large companies (the Aurrera foundry, the La Naval shipyard and AHV itself) with many workshops and auxiliary services around.

External and internal view of the restoration of the Ilgner Building. In the 1940s at full capacity with its two generators. Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, 02 Heritage TWO WORLDS SESTAO. THE

Model of an AHV locomotive (1970) similar to the one you can see across the bridge (6). FACTORY CITY ROUTE: 4 KM

On the other side of the pedestrian bridge you will fi nd one of the many steam engines that were used in AHV. The beginning of “La Punta” area was occupied by two large companies that lay between the Altos Hornos de Vizcaya factory in Barakaldo and the two AHV plants in Sestao: the land abandoned in 1999 by the Aurrera foundry created in 1885, and the area marked by large cranes that can be seen in the grounds of La Naval shipyard. THE LAST GREAT SHIPYARD ON THE RIVER La Naval (7) is the last great shipyard on the river after the closure The confluence During the twentieth century, the river of Galindo and the Nervión itself were of the Euskalduna in Bilbao. It began operation in 1916 from the of the river among the most polluted waterways in Europe. The enormous importance of previous company Nervión Shipyards, founded in 1888 and pioneers Galindo with the this production area meant that, during the Civil War, the demolition of these in the construction of steel ships. river Nervión is known locally as iron and steel emporiums was mooted so that they would not fall into the hands 84 “La Punta”. In of Franco’s troops (1937). Finally, the Basque government of the time chose to 85 both photos (in leave them operating with the argument that its disappearance would bring the 1910s and more hardship to a population that was already in great need. 1960s) you can The effects of the disappearance or reduction of these industries make this part see the silhouette of the route both interesting and educational and also aesthetically hard. of the church of El Carmen, We are in a region with the highest rates of unemployment in the Basque demolished in Country, and Sestao has the highest rate (18%) with a population loss of 30% 1974 to expand the since the end of the great companies around it during the 1980s and 1990s. coal depot of Altos Hornos de Vizcaya, The town is located high on a hill, surrounded by the river Nervión Valley (where whose size can be we are now) and the course of the river Galindo on the other side. One of the dry docks. seen in the modern Of its facilities, it is worth noting their building halls, the offi ces photograph. Both valleys were the site of large companies including Altos Hornos de Launching the tanker Zaragoza in designed by Manuel Mª de Smith and especially dry dock no. 1 Bizkaia, Babcock&Wilcox, General Eléctrica, La Naval and Aurrera which 1968. which, although substantially modifi ed, belonged to the original employed about 40,000 people in the 1970s. Today because of closures or a shipyard. Its great dimensions measure 26-35 m wide, 150 m drastic reduction in the workforce (as in the case of La Naval or the new Acería Sailing out for the sea trial of a mining long and 1 m deep with the oldest closing caisson in Spain, are Compacta), compact steelworks), and even with the recent opening of new ship in 2013. the result of the design of facilities aimed to compete for orders companies, only about 2,000 jobs have remained. for a new naval fl eet in the late nineteenth century. As in the case of the shipyard located in Bilbao (Euskalduna), its facilities This part of the route passes through the area most directly linked to the now- were also used to produce other articles, including railway defunct Altos Hornos and, after the effort made in Barakaldo, the regeneration View of the shipyard in 1919 with the rolling stock, cars, cranes... process for Sestao is in full implementation, with a plan to redevelop derelict cruise ship Alfonso XIII on the slipway. premises and land, restore houses that have deteriorated over time, boost trade and services, and so on. Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, Heritage TWO WORLDS Late 19th century, the three companies that merged to create Altos Hornos de Vizcaya in 1902. The coal was loaded into machines that THE INDUSTRIAL FLAGSHIP: fed the coke ovens. ALTOS HORNOS DE VIZCAYA The ovens were lined up so as to not lose heat as a result of irradiation. Each Altos Hornos de Vizcaya was founded oven was heated with gas from a small in 1902 as a result of the merger of adjoining room and one burning session three previous steel companies (Altos was carried out after another, nearly half Hornos de Bilbao, La Vizcaya and La of the load. The volatile elements released Iberia) and, after purchasing the factory in the process were used as chemical of San Francisco (1879) it became the by-products. After fi nishing the coking most important company in Spain in process, the coke was withdrawn from the the fi rst half of the twentieth century. It Altos Hornos de Bilbao steelworks in Barakaldo (1882), formerly the retort oven and it was cooled rapidly on closed its doors for ever in 1996 and the Nuestra Señora del Carmen company (1855). 1918 advertisement. the surface; this was done with a cooling land in Sestao is now occupied by the tower. The coke was then cut and sieved ArcelorMitall facilities of the Bizkaia and depending on its granulometry it was Compact Steelworks. sent to the blast furnace or the different Altos Hornos was one of the great sections of the factory. landowners in Spain, as it owned large For the production of ammonium sulphate mines and became the main shareholder there were two sets of tanks to distil in other steel companies in the country. ammonia solution. There, the acid was shaken and passed through electric 86 In 1960, at the peak of its operation, 87 17,000 workers worked there. In this heaters until the sulphate crystals area it eventually had 4 large production solidifi ed. centres; the three described when it Once the cast iron had been made, the was created and a fourth devoted to the next step was to turn it into steel and for production of hot rolled metal which that transformer furnaces were used. opened in 1966 on the plain of Ansio, Starting with the emerging ingots, all located in the interior valley of Barakaldo. kinds of rolled products were made in the rolling mills. It was a fully-equipped steel mill that La Iberia in Sestao (1890). 1,000 ton coke ovens. 1950s. turned the iron ore into semi-fi nished The process in this part was as follows: steel products. the steel was poured into a ladle and was transported by a crane over a series of ingot moulds. At the bottom a valve was PRODUCTION SYSTEM OF A FULLY- opened and a stream of steel poured out EQUIPPED STEELMILL* and fi lled the moulds. When the liquid steel solidifi ed it became an ingot, which From the beginning, it had enough coke was the fi rst solid appearance of the steel. ovens to be self-suffi cient in coke. Later it was separated from the moulds using cranes equipped with pincers. The Numerous types of coal were piled up ingots were piled up in vertical heat- in silos and from there they were fed resistant barrels in which they remained through hoppers onto conveyor belts at high temperatures until they were used. carrying the coal to be ground up; there, after removing the ashes, the coal was classifi ed according to its quality and origin. Then it passed to the cooling towers, located above the coke ovens. La Vizcaya (1882) at the end of the quay in Sestao. 1904. 10,000hp machine for the rolling mill. *Texts: hiru.com Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, Heritage TWO WORLDS

Sestao facilities at full capacity c. 1965.

Panoramic view of the AHV facilities in the 1970s in this part of the river. You can see one of the two factories in Barakaldo Letterhead in 1911. and the two in Sestao. AHV had other factories in Etxebarri (Bizkaia) and Lesaka (Navarra).

88 Bessemer converters in the 1940s. Cast iron. 1990s. 89

Panoramic view of the Sestao factories c.1930.

Shipment area for corrugated steel, bars and rods (1940s).

Throughout the twentieth century, the life of the towns on the banks of the Nervión was marked by the activity of the AHV steelworks. As a popular song went, its “furnaces illuminate all Bilbao”, which was a real effect whenever the Bessemer converters poured the cast iron and the sky turned a red that was visible over 12 km away. Part of this legacy can be observed in the walk through Sestao. In Txabarri street we pass the old fi rst aid post (8) and 200 m further on, the old School of Apprentices (9), with the company logo on the bars over its windows. As in other large companies, this school combined studies with intensive in-house practice to train generations of qualifi ed operators to exactly fi t the The School of Apprentices trained people in needs of each company. They could be considered many areas. Forging and technical drawing the forerunner of today’s vocational training. practice (1940s). The combination of study Now in the rolling process, the hot and work in the company, meant they had ingots passed through powerful After this building Blast Furnace No. 1 (10) ) of highly qualified workers available. rotating cylinders which narrowed 1959 rises majestically, the only one left of the 3 and stretched the section of the The School of that were here, and whose restoration is designed ingot under pressure. In another Apprentices to make it an interpretation centre for the steel part of the steelworks, in the building in the industry. structural mills, the bloom (a square 1970s. Modern The furnaces were vertical constructions. They plate of steel) was rolled for both close-up of the were made of a vat covered with welded plate, a heavy construction (rails, bridges, metal bars with the shell lined with refractory material. structures for buildings and ships) company logo on the windows. and for commercial purposes. To The total height of the furnace is 80 m and its manage this, they had roughing diameter is 18 m. The main technical features mills with two cylinders that rolled counterclockwise of this construction are its support on a circular around the ingot: as the surface had grooves, the ingot beam, the crucible of 6.5 m in diameter, 25 m passed through the mills several times, once for each interior height with a useable interior volume of groove until it was gradually reduced in thickness. After 757 m3, and the Wurth double bell-mouth inlet 90 rolling, the blooms were cut into particular lengths, ducts for better distribution of internal loads and 91 depending on the purpose that they were intended for, to for preventing gas leaks. move them to the rolling mill and give them the desired shape. The oven has a series of auxiliary elements necessary for its operation, of which you can still see the three ovens with their chimneys, the fl ue In the mid 80s, the continuous casting process was gas ducts with dust separators, the cable railway introduced. Thus, a new steelwork concept was born. for loading the furnace and the casting hall. Walking along Rivas street and Txabarri street, we can The 31 m-high Didier furnaces were forced air View from the river of the steelworks and three blast imagine the enormous, complex installations of this furnaces in 1980. The twin furnaces No. 1 of 1959 (below intake furnaces, each with 21,247 m2 of heating company in what is now ArcelorMittal. Its profound in its current restoration process) and No. 2 of 1968, surface. The gas produced by the furnace was interaction with the surrounding municipalities (especially replaced four previous furnaces of smaller capacity. taken away by the outlet tubes, arranged in pairs, intense in this town) can be seen perfectly in this street. which fl owed out to a collector and led the gas to Txabarri was the main road of Sestao, where its most 1890 building with a gate designed for a dry fi lter, reusing part of it to heat the furnaces. access to the stables. emblematic houses were, which, ironically, suffered the For transporting loads of ore, additives and coke, The corner of Txabarri street with La greatest pollution from being in the vicinity of the factory. a wagon or skip was used, which was moved by Iberia street in the 1950s. Here the fi rst horse-drawn ‘blood’ tram ran between a winch up a slope from a pit in the ground to the Bilbao and Santurtzi, opened in 1882, and an electric tram feed point at the top of the blast furnace. 14 years later. In between, 1888 saw the opening of the In the casting hall where the slag and pig iron railway between Bilbao and Portugalete, which still runs were collected, channels or gullies were used to along the bottom of this valley. pour them into ladles for casting; also, there was The great company not only occupied most of the surface a pneumatic drill and an electric gun, which were of this whole area but it also became a property promoter used for opening and closing the tap hole. for groups of houses until 1965; it created schools, consumer cooperatives, hospitals and leisure centres. In short, a whole infrastructure that generally saturated the urban areas of Barakaldo and Sestao. Throughout its history, Altos Hornos de Vizcaya exported its steel to more than 50 countries. Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, Heritage TWO WORLDS

Created by the steelworkers of La Vizcaya THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN S.A. in 1887, this building, also designed by Santos Zunzunegui, was built when Sestao concentrates its population on the cooperative moved to the upper the two sides of the hill that separates Old school of Charles VII (now the area of the municipality in the 1920s. the river Nervión from the inland Music School) in 1985 and current It is interesting to note the concrete valley of the river Galindo where two state of the old Berria cooperative. reproduction of rivets that mimic a other large companies were located: metallic style. Babcock&Wilcox, dedicada which produced capital goods, and General Back at the Gran Vía abordamos we go Eléctrica which made energy equipment down the second street on the left (Los and whose original halls are now Baños street) to see various different partially occupied by the multinational types of houses again, still linked to the ABB. industrial development of the area and the population explosion that happened as a To cope with the steep slopes, you can result. make use of the mechanical ramps in La Iberia street connecting Txabarri The second junction is La Unión street street to the top of the hill. (13) which is named after a group of terraced houses that run down from this Once at the top, the fi rst thing you see corner of the street. This was another is what is now the music school (11), work by Santos Zunzunegui, built, as painted green and burgundy. Its original shown on its ceramic plaque, between function, until 1987, was as the old 92 1923 and 1925. 93 schoolhouse. Near the bottom is the ‘corrala’ corridored It is a work of 1912 designed by Santos State of the corrala houses house known as “La Galana” (14). It is Zunzunegui (p. 82), the other great local “La Galana” in the 1970s. a restored building defi ned by the fact architect of the left bank along with that the doors of all the fl ats led out onto Ismael Gorostiza (p. 81). Curiously, on a communal corridor where, in its time, the corner of La Iberia street you can the toilets were located in one corner. It see a notice board where the deaths was a model of house which was halfway that have occurred in the town are between the previous huts and later types announced, a striking custom of the of housing. La Galana is the last evidence area. left of this type of construction in the last Just across the street (the Gran Vía or third of the nineteenth century in Bizkaia. high street of the town), is a square with Before continuing this route along the the building in which the fi rst consumer river, we recommend that you go back to cooperative was reinstalled in the the Gran Via and walk 200m to the left (up Basque Country (12). the small hill) to see 2 other groups of cheap houses on either side of the street. Visit of the Minister to the social La Protectora and La Humanitaria (15) houses La Humanitaria in 1926. will be the last groups of “cheap houses” we see on our walk; both groups have the characteristic English style of the area Industrial units at Babcock & Wilcox in the plain of the Galindo. It was in the 1920s and, as already mentioned, in operation in Sestao from 1920 until its closure in the early 1990s. were a milestone in the quality of life of Inside one of the halls in 1970 used for the production of trains, one line among the many capital goods it produced. its inhabitants, under the guidance of humanist architecture. 03 PORTUGALETE. FUSION OF BOTH SIDES OF THE RIVER ROUTE: 3 KM La Benedicta dockside in the 1970s. This town was founded in 1322, only 22 years after Bilbao, and it is dominated th The route requires us to walk down to the level of the river. We can do it by going down by the Basílica of Santa María (15 La Iberia street to the bottom or simply going down between any of the streets to see, in century) which is Gothic with Renaissance all its intensity, the jumbled urban planning that led Sestao to be considered in the 1960s infl uences, and the tower of the Salazar th and 1970s one of the points of highest urban density in Europe. family (14 century), which are both in the same square at the top of the old town. You go down La Iberia street or by the viaduct next to the Blast Furnace down to the quay of La Benedicta (16), going round the most recent part of the Compact Steelworks of These were two centuries in which the Bizkaia (ACB). town underwent remarkable development, but it went into decline when Bilbao This is as far as AHV extended towards the sea: mineral loaders, freight and passenger started to monopolise the activity on the railways, cargo ships, tugboats, barges (barge ships of up to 400 tons to transport slag or river. In the twentieth century, Portugalete coal), eternally leaden grey skies, the furnace mouths glistening in the sky and extreme merges the concept of spa town (typical of acoustic, water and air pollution... the opposite bank) at its lowest level down by the river, with high residential density It was a local vision of hell that remained for almost a century and employed thousands at its highest point (similar to that of the of people in an intensive occupation that will never be seen again. An industrial 94 manufacturing towns previously visited). 95 conglomerate that occupied the banks of the river and, as in the case of Bilbao and Barakaldo, made access for the local people to the river diffi cult. Today, some of these On the way to the transporter bridge, we factories have been converted into a convenient, view-fi lled pedestrian path that joins will see the scant remains of the stone Sestao and Portugalete, and extends to the next town of Santurtzi. From here you can loaders of the Galdames mining railway see the great icon of the area: the Puente Bizkaia, the fi rst industrial work in operation and, a little further on, in what used to recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2006. be the building for the port authorities, the Rialia Industrial Museum (www. rialia.net), dedicated to collections and memories of the activity of AHV.

From the era of industrialisation, La Canilla station at its opening Portugalete has two listed monuments. One, the famous bridge (1888) and now, converted into the and the other, the Iron Pier, which solved navigability problems town tourist office. that the river had had for centuries and that became the great exit point for the products extracted or manufactured upriver. Once you enter the old quarter, you will see a building strikingly painted in yellow and blue. It was the old train terminus La Canilla (17) designed by Pablo Alzola (p. 28) in 1888 as the terminus station of the Bilbao-Portugalete railway line before the train line was extended to Santurtzi in 1926. It currently houses the town’s tourist offi ce. Just 50 metres ahead on the riverside there still exists a system of alternative transport to the transporter bridge: the motorboats La Benedicta in 1909 with the view of the La Vizcaya and La Iberia that also connect both sides. steelworks (already part of AHV) and loaders of the Galdames Railway (Bilbao River & Cantabrian Railway Co Ltd), by which iron In the 1970s there were up to 7 crossing points on the river for ore was transported until 1946. ferries between Bilbao and Santurtzi. Today there is only this one, and the one at the quay in Desierto, in Barakaldo. Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, Heritage TWO WORLDS Above is the Plaza del Ayuntamiento or Town Hall Square. In the In 1887 Alberto de Palacio met the The role of López de Letona is worth background you can see the Bustamante House (18) designed in contractor Ferdinand Arnodin. The emphasizing, because it embodies 1910 by the Cantabrian architect Leonardo Rucabado with clear Frenchman was attracted by Palacio’s an archetype of Basque economic infl uences of Catalan Modernism. project and provided techniques for tradition: the fi gure of the ‘indiano’, the suspension bridges with cables that he rich emigrant who made his money in From this square, from the corner of the Gran Hotel, continue had developed in his earlier projects. America. Alberto de Palacio the walk along the river, where you can see a variety of large y Elissague Thus, the “Vizcaya Bridge” in terms of houses and mansions. Returning to Europe with a healthy (1856-1939) Transporter was Palacio’s invention, and fortune, he decided to invest in the project Facade of the Town Hall and Casa in terms of Suspension was Arnodin’s. Other works: of the Transporter Bridge, which goes to Bustamante at the entrance to Fortunately it was both at the same time • The Crystal Palace in show his forward thinking and confi dence the Old Quarter. and that’s what made it original and new. El Retiro Park. Madrid in industrial progress. (1887). As new as the money that fi nanced • Atocha station with In addition to being the one who brought its construction. At a time when engineer Saint-James. the most capital to the venture, he multimillionaire fortunes were being Madrid (1888-1892) imposed his serene, rigorous spirit and forged at the edge of the river, none of • Bank of Spain. Madrid managed to dispel the disputes that arose (1884-1891). the mining magnates nor the richest between Palace, Arnodin and partners ship owners, none of the bankers nor of the Company. And there were many, any of the wealthy patrons of the biggest because the construction of the “Vizcaya steelmaking centre in the peninsula Bridge” proved slow, complex and not risked getting involved in this project to without controversy between the forces connect the two sides of the river with an involved. It did not follow the initial project iron bridge. plan in the technical conditions, the The absolute novelty of the project made budget or the deadlines. 96 the great names in the fi nancial pantheon 97 THE GREAT ICON OF INDUSTRIAL SOCIETY: Suffi ce to say that although work began of Bilbao look on it sceptically. Neither * amid great optimism on August 4th, 1890, DREAM OR BUSINESS? did they see a lucrative business in the in 1891 they progressed with agonizing transport of passengers over short slowness, due to legal problems, the The Bizkaia Bridge (19) embodies both. It is a transporter toll distances. It would be twelve modest reluctance of the builder and the mistrust bridge, conceived, designed and built by the private sector businessmen linked to trade and light of the partners. between 1887 and 1893, linking the two banks of the Nervión industry who would embark on the River and was the fi rst of its type in the world. Its construction adventure. Among them, one stands out So much so that there were times when was due to the need to link the existing spa resorts on both sides as the true entrepreneur of the work: the very existence of the monument hung of the river, for the industrial bourgeoisie and tourists of the late Santos López de Letona. by a thread. nineteenth century. *Texts: euskadi.eus Alberto de Palacio’s plans. His visionary character led him, at that time, to propose cafes and restaurants, elevators and a walkway above.

Photograph in the year of its 1895. Battleship María Teresa, launched inauguration (1893). in the Nervión Shipyards in 1890. Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, Heritage TWO WORLDS

98 99 Differences between the technical director (Palacio) always with many doubts and reproaching each other and the contractor (Arnodin) began almost for the delays; one accusing the other of being slow immediately. Arnodin acted with an entrepreneurial in manufacturing and the other diagnosing him with mentality, while Palacio saw the bridge as the pursuit an incurable ‘maladie des changements’, or disease of a personal dream that it was always possible to of changes. improve, with plans that he never took for defi nitive. But amid all the problems, the group of men set on It was inevitable that the infl exible pragmatism of the construction of the “Vizcaya Bridge” was held the Frenchman would collide with the boundless together by the contagious faith of Alberto de Palacio youthful imagination of the Basque. The investors in his project and by a unanimous feeling of being did not understand this tense dialogue between the involved in a transcendent work. They were not creator and the dealer, and watched the struggle with mistaken. distrust. Added to this was the anguish of thinking On July 15th 1893, the last missing piece to complete that their savings would vanish if the government did the gigantic meccano arrived: a “Henri David” water not renew their work permits because of the delays. pump made in Orleans. Everything was quickly The work was so new and the architect’s mind so mounted on a platform above the arches of the active that the transporter bridge changed and fi rst fl oor of a nearby building and on the 24th the mutated as he went along. He understood that he bridge was ready to be tested. The machinery started could exploit the potential of the structure as a with a tremble, the gondola started moving, the leisure resource and make it part of the landscape of cables tightened and yet the great metal skeleton the summer amusements of the beaches of El Abra. remained rigid, without defl ections or vibration. The bridge worked. And it still does today. It even offers The partners were delighted with the idea, but the possibility of crossing the river along its upper Arnodin responded with great reluctance; for him the walkway, with its superb views of the river and the original plan was “a light economic construction”. river mouth. Palacio and Arnodin ploughed ahead together, almost With the opening of the Iron Pier, the ‘tidal clock’ gauge quickly became a simple striking object that has survived to this day. The house of the businessman and nationalist politician Beach scene Ramón Vicuña beachside houses on the hill now For the construction of the infrastructure, dated 1901. is perhaps the converted into hotels and municipal which then faced the open sea, he did not best example services. have much money or time, so he decided to Postcard dating of the profusion put up an iron pier built on screw piles which from the early of mansions on This beach was connected to the opposite twentieth that little later he chose to change in the this part of the bank by a sand bar that, throughout century. You walk. Built in history, made it very diffi cult to navigate fi nal hundred meters, building a traditional can see that 1915 by Santos the river; the dreaded Portugalete sand masonry seawall, with greater width and there was Zunzunegui bar - also known as the school for height than the original six hundred metres. a seaside (p. 82) in the shipwrecks – made of shifting sands The design of the quay modifi ed the existing atmosphere, regionalist style, that hindered navigation periodically, currents and used them to so that the until the It was a model for other similar bridges around the world later. There are numerous it is interesting sometimes making it impossible at low current itself acted as the best dredge. pollution and panels around it explaining its details, the process of construction or the repair after to note the tide (with depths of only 1 m). the transfer of coffered ceiling the Spanish Civil War. It works continuously every day of the year 24 hours a day. Its The work was fi nished in 1887 and its the bourgeoisie under the eaves current colour was inspired by the red hematite iron seam of Somorrostro. Centuries of dredging and cleaning were construction fi nally solved the problem of to the opposite 100 101 and two side not able to clear this important gateway to navigability in the port of Bilbao, creating shore led to the towers with a THE IRON PIER: THE CONSTRUCTION THAT DROVE THE the river of Bilbao for ships with enough an eighty metre wide step with a depth disappearance covered balcony. draft for the iron trade, and this explains of 4.58 m at low tide; Churruca would be of the beach in DEVELOPMENT OF BIZKAIA the profusion of unprotected loaders on recognized for his worth in the fi eld of 1950. the cliffs from outside the current port European civil engineering. It is a work that Now, we will just go past it to get to the other great jewel of this trip: the Iron Pier (21). right round to the neighbouring province explains exactly how the term genius is the In addition to the imposing bourgeois houses of the late nineteenth and early twentieth of Cantabria. etymological basis of the word engineer. century, on the walk you will see a clock that is actually a tide gauge (20) installed only Until was appointed We retrace our steps back to the Bizkaia two years before the opening of the Iron Pier. Evaristo de Churruca director of the Port Works Board in 1877. Bridge and go over to the opposite shore. The substantial form of this structure has to be imagined today. The point of the walk where the pier begins used to be Portugalete beach; in fact, you can see towering

The problem of the navigability of the river can be seen in this photo taken 4 years after the construction of the Iron Pier (1887) picture. Here you can see how the sand bank from the right side (called Las Arenas, the sands, for that reason), made access impossible for ships with One of the design features of the pier is the sleek, lightweight a deep enough draft to export the bracing in the form of a St. Andrew’s cross that supports the products of the mines. pier under its first 600 m. Walk 4 IndustryIndustry ONE RIVER, In fact, if you walk along the bank of the river to the beach and walk along the Heritage TWO WORLDS whole esplanade (1,8 km) you will see houses with an unmistakable English air. The main entrance of these houses are in Zugazarte, street parallel to this, so we recommend that you alternate the seaside 04 path with the road on the other side to look at their main facades and see the other mansions that do not overlook the GETXO. THE sea.

The succession of buildings, styles, Zugazarte Avenue. 1920. MANSIONS distributions, origin of the owners and architects profi les is explained in 29 Pamphlet of the route trilingual panels that offer a detailed of the large houses and OF THE explanation, both along this esplanade mansions of the Getxo and on the walk at right-angles to this areas of Las Arenas one, below the Arriluce hill, which leads and Neguri. INDUSTRIALISTS to Ereaga beach. If any of the panels are damaged at the time of your visit, you can consult the enclosed booklet. It is a ROUTE: 3.5 KM Monumental Complex that was recognized as a Heritage Site in 2011. We are now in Las Arenas; one of the fi ve areas that make up the sprawling town Before starting this part of the walk it is 102 of Getxo. Although their social makeup is worth considering the fact that many of 103 very different between them, it contains these mansions were abandoned by the The El Abra Sailing Club, founded in 1902. Built by two of the most affl uent neighbourhoods families living there between the 1970s Severino Achúcarro (p. 25) and destroyed by the fire caused by an ETA terrorist attack in 1973. in Spain; this one of Las Arenas and, and 1980s. The reasons can be found in especially, the adjacent Neguri ((‘winter a concatenation of circumstances: the town’ in Basque), where a large number closure of businesses they were owners of palaces and mansions are to be found. of, the excessive costs of maintaining Here the cream of the Basque business these large buildings and the pressure class gathered, although today there is of terrorism that for decades subjected only one mansion that has been occupied the elite that lived here to unbearable continuously by the same family. pressure. As mentioned with the Iron Pier, the name As evidence of the harassment by ETA that Las Arenas made direct reference to the the Basque business classes underwent, beaches, marshes and meadows, crossed it is enough to look at the example of by numerous streams that made human their social club par excellence: the Club life impossible. In fact, in 1860, this area Marítimo del Abra (22), which suffered only had 36 inhabitants, living against the three terrorist attacks between 1973 and bases of the hills that surround it. 2008. The building is located between residential buildings and you can see From that year maritime pines, gorse and the back of it just at the end of the small other plants with which to fi x and hold the beach of Las Arenas. soil began to be planted. In 1868, the fi rst spa had already been built, and this was The recovery of the houses in the area the gateway to the construction of houses; is due also to a combination of factors fi rst summer houses and then proper that have affected their development: occupation as head offi ces of companies, mansions for the gentry and industrial Current building from 1975 by Eugenio Aguinaga and conversion to hotel businesses, internal oligarchy. Scenes from Las Arenas: 1880, 1900 and today Iñigo Eulate. from the Bizkaia bridge walkway. division into fl ats... From left to right, the houses Cisco III, Cisco II and Cisco I (23). The original building was built in 1909 by Manuel Maria de Smith; the architect Eugenio de Aguinaga was End of the Marqués de Arriluce esplanade c. 1920. You can see houses that are no longer there, including the house of the inspired by this work to build Cisco II and III in 1948.. republican industrialist Horacio Echevarrieta which included the galleries that have survived to this day. The building was constructed in 1911 by Gregorio de Ibarreche, while the galleries were a 1918 extension by Ricardo Bastida (p. 16).

104 105 Here and on Arrigunaga hill lived the And the route opens onto Ereaga beach. In the most celebrated industrial and fi nancial middle stands the old Igeretxe Spa (25). The families in Spain: Ybarra, Lezama- present building was built in 1913 and is one Leguizamón, Zabálburu, Aresti, Cisco I (1915). of the fi rst erected in reinforced concrete. The Delclaux, De la Sota, Lipperheide, exterior structure appears plastered and painted Zubiria, Arana… who, to show their and the decoration, which formerly followed economic position and social impact, Basque designs (false half-timbering, arched hired the most famous architects of gate in thick stonework, fi re doors...) has been the time: Achúcarro, Bastida, Iturria, simplifi ed to a minimum. Garamendi, Amann… Among them, the To return to Bilbao, you have 2 metro stations: Anglophile Manuel María de Smith (p. 13) stands out for the quantity, diversity 1) Neguri: you can get to this station by walking up and originality of his work. the hill opposite the Igeretxe spa. This is a good Image of the Igeretxe Spa and Neguri area option if you want to continue walking among This part of the walk, along the sea c. 1930. Today, the hill still has many large the town houses and mansions until you end up front, continues along the Paseo houses and mansions. in the square with the metro, which may remind Marqués de Arriluce (24) at right- you of an English square. angles to this esplanade under the hill of the same name. 2) Algorta: Continue along the sea walk to the cable lift 300 m further on from the Igeretxe; This stretch fi nishes at the end of when you can to the top, the station is about Arrigunaga hill where the Punta 800m away. Another option is to keep walking Begoña Galleries stand open in front of around the bay until you reach the picturesque the 1920s lighthouse, (the old lifeboat area of the Old Port of Algorta (26); if you climb station) currently occupied by the Red its steep steps and slopes to the top, you will Cross of the Sea. also come out very close to the metro station. IndustryIndustry BILBAO TOURISM ONDARROA METRO BILBAO WEEK OROZKO MUSEUM (Orozko) www.bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo 946 831 951 · www.ondarroa.net 944 254 025 · www.metrobilbao.net www.museodepasos.org www.orozkoudala.com Heritage BISKAY TOURISM ORDUÑA TRAM MUSEUM OF IMAGES OF THE HOLY BASQUE CULTURE MUSEUM (EUSKAL www.mybilbaobizkaia.net 945 384 384 · www.urduna.com 902 543 210 · 944 019 900 WEEK HERRIA) (Gernika-Lumo) www.euskotran.es PLENTZIA www.plazatorosbilbao.com www.bizkaia.net/euskalherriamuseoa ALAVA TOURISM www.torosbilbao.com www.alavaturismo.com 946 774 199 · www.plentzia.org TAXIS GERNIKA PEACE MUSEUM FOUNDATION PRACTICAL Radio Taxi Bilbao BASQUE MUSEUM / EUSKAL MUSEOA (Gernika-Lumo) PORTUGALETE 944 448 888 GIPUZKOA TOURISM 944 729 314 · www.portugalete.com www.euskal-museoa.org www.museodelapaz.org www.gipuzkoaturismo.net Tele Taxi ARTISTIC REPRODUCTIONS MUSEUM SANTURTZI 944 102 121 GERNIKA MEETING HOUSE INFORMATION BASQUE COUNTRY TOURISM 944 839 494 · www.santurtzi.net www.museoreproduccionesbilbao. (Gernika-Lumo) www.euskaditurismo.net Radio Taxi Nervión org www.gernika-lumo.net SOPELA 944 269 026 NEKATUR/AGRITOURISMS 944 065 519 · www.sopelana.es ATHLETIC CLUB MUSEUM SIMÓN BOLÍVAR MUSEUM 902 130 031 · www.nekatur.net BIKE HIRE www.athletic-club.net SOPUERTA (Ziortza-Bolibar) Bilbon Bizi www.simonbolibarmuseoa.com 946 104 028 · www.sopuerta.biz 944 205 193 EUSKARAREN ETXEA www.euskararenetxea.net TOURIST OFFICES TRUCIOS-TURTZIOZ 944 203 113 BASQUE FARMSTEAD ECOMUSEUM / 946 109 604 · www.turtzioz.org ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM EUSKAL BASERRIA (Artea) BILBAO www.bizkaia.net www.euskalbaserria.com BILBAO TOURISM ZIERBENA GENERAL · Plaza Circular, 1 Edificio Terminus 946 404 974 · www.zierbena.net OUTPATIENTS 112 DURANGO ART AND HISTORY MUSEUM 944 795 760 MUSEUMS IN BISCAY (Durango) GENERAL INFORMATION 010 · Alameda de Mazarredo 66 SAN SEBASTIÁN ALONG THE COAST www.bizkaia.net (Next to Guggenheim Bilbao) (for calls from within Bilbao) VALENTÍN DE BERRIOTXOA MUSEUM SAN SEBASTIÁN TOURISM 944 010 010 (for calls outside of PESQUERO AGURTZA C.I. FISHING · AIROPORT 944 031 444 (Elorrrio) 943 481 166 Bilbao) MUSEUM (Santurtzi) www.sansebastianturismo.com www.losmuseosdelacostavasca. www.museoberrio-otxoa.com BISCAY CONSULAR OFFICE com Gran Vía 13-6º 944 706 426 BAKIO VITORIA-GASTEIZ SANTURTZI ITSASOA INTERPRETATION NATURE RESERVES 946 193 395 · www.bakio.org VITORIA-GASTEIZ CITIZEN INFORMATION CENTRE (Santurtzi) URDAIBAI BIOSPHERE RESERVE BALMASEDA 945 161 598 · www.vitoria-gasteiz.org 010 or 944 241 700 www.losmueosdelacostavasca.com 944 650 822 www.busturialdeaurdaibai.com 946 801 356 · www.enkartur.net ROADS GENERAL INFORMATION RIALIA INDUSTRY MUSEUM BARAKALDO BEC TOURISM 900 123 505 or 112 (Portugalete) 946 870 402 (Ihobe) 106 (Bilbao Exhibition Centre) AIRPORT CONSUMER INFORMATION MUNICIPAL www.rialia.net www.torremadariaga.net 944 995 821 Bilbao-Loiu · 902 404 704 (AENA) OFFICE BISCAY BRIDGE GORBEIA NATURE RESERVE www.bilbaoexhibitioncentre.com 944 869 660 / 944 869 663 944 204 969 946 739 279 Areatza Park www.aena.es (Las Arenas-Getxo/Portugalete) BERMEO METEOROLOGICAL SERVICE www.puente-colgante.com Interpretation Centre 945 430 167 · 946 315 525 946 179 154 · www.bermeo.org CRUISE AND FERRY 807 170 348 FISHERMEN’S MUSEUM (Bermeo) Gorbeialdea · www.gorbeialdea.com DIMA Ferry Bilbao-Portsmouth · 944 234 477 www.bizkaikoa.bizkaia.net www.poferries.com LOST AND FOUND www.gorbeiacentralpark.com 944 046 097 · www.gorbeialdea.com 944 204 981 INLAND URKIOLA NATURE RESERVE DURANGO TRAINS CUSTOMS Abando Indalecio Prieto Station 946 814 155 · www.urkiola.net 946 033 938 · www.durango-udala.net Barroeta Aldámar, 1 · 944 234 700 BALMASEDA MUSEUM (Balmaseda) (Renfe) www.visitenkarterri.com ARMAÑÓN NATURE RESERVE GERNIKA-LUMO Plaza Circular, 2 · 902 320 320 PASSPORTS- VISAS- ID CARD 946 800 226 · www.enkartur.net 946 255 892 · www.gernika-lumo.net www.renfe.es Alcalde Uhagón, 6 BOINAS LA ENCARTADA MUSEUM GETXO (Balmaseda) Atxuri Station (EUSKOTREN) 944 210 000 Ext. 215 www.laencartadamuseoa.com 944 910 800 · www.getxo.net Atxuri 8 · 902 543 210 / 944 019 900 DOCUMENTATION (GEN. INFORMATION) BASQUE CHARTER MUSEUM GORDEXOLA www.euskotren.es 900 150 000 946 799 715 · www.gordexola.net Concordia Station, FEVE Bilbao (Sopuerta) Calle de Bailén 2 · 944 250 615 BILBAO DENDAK www.enkarterrimuseoa.net GORLIZ 944 706 500 946 774 348 · www.gorliz.net www.feve.es EL POBAL SMITHY BUSES (Muskiz) KARRANTZA-HARANA www.bizkaia.net/elpobal 946 806 928 · www.karrantza.org Termibus (Bus station) MUSEUMS IN BILBAO Gurtubai 1 · 944 395 077 GUGGENHEIM BILBAO MUSEUM LOIZAGA TOWER VINTAGE AND CLASSIC LEKEITIO www.termibus.es www.guggenheim-bilbao.es CAR MUSEUM 946 844 017 · www.lekeitio.com Bilbobus (City buses) FINE ARTS MUSEUM (Galdames) MENDATA 944 484 070 · 944 790 981 www.museobilbao.com www.torreloizaga.com 946 257 402 · www.mendata.es www.bilbao.net/bilbobus BILBAO BENEDICTO MUSEUM BASQUE COUNTRY MINING MUSEUM MUNDAKA Bizkaibus www.museo-benedicto.net (Gallarta) 946 177 201 · www.mundaka.org (Provincial and airport buses) www.museominero.net 902 222 265 · www.bizkaia.net DIOCESAN MUSEUM OF RELIGIOUS ART MUXIKA www.eleizmuseoa.com “JOSÉ LUIS GOTI” MUSEUM OF THE 946 257 609 · www.urremendi.org BILBAO RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM HISTORY OF BASQUE MEDICINE AND www.museomaritimobilbao.org SCIENCE (Leioa) MUSEUM OF IMAGES OF THE HOLY www.bizkaia.ehu.es BILBAO TOURISM Plaza Circular, 1 Edifi cio Terminus 944 795 760 www.mybilbaobizkaia.com www.bilbaoturismo.net