Page 18฀ Berkshire฀Jewish฀Voice฀฀฀•฀ jewishberkshires.org November 29 to December 31, 2017 BERKSHIRE JEWISH VOICES Traveling with Jewish Taste Chanukah’s Coming By Carol Goodman Kaufman

potatoes as a delicacy, Euro- saved the Jews from starva- Potatoes returned across permanent potato patches in peans feared these members tion. Evidence of this is the the Atlantic Ocean in 1621, North America were estab- of the nightshade family (and population explosion from the when the Governor of Bermu- lished much further north, their delicious cousin, the beginning of the 19th centu- da, Nathaniel Butler, sent a in New Hampshire in 1719. tomato), and turned their ry to the end, in what is now large shipment of potatoes and From there, the crop spread noses up. It wasn’t until after Russia/Poland, from about a other vegetables to Governor across the country, where they France’s Seven Years’ War million and a half Jews to five Francis Wyatt of Virginia at appear today on breakfast, with Prussia that the vegetable million. Jamestown. However, the first lunch, and dinner menus. reached a turning point in the public eye. French scientist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier survived five years as a pris- oner of war through a diet that Shlishkes consisted almost exclusively of Oh, how we Jews love our potatoes, whether red, white, russet, or gold. We put them in blintzes, Chanukah is around the potatoes, and when he re- cholent, knishes, kreplach, kugel, latkes – and shlishkes, the Hungarian version of gnocchi. Although corner and I am already sali- turned to Paris after war’s end, not strictly adhering to the “fried in oil” custom of Chanukah, they are browned and toasted in vating at the thought of crispy, he promoted the vegetable’s butter, which makes them a nice dairy salute to our ancestor Judith. The beautiful and intrepid Judith golden potato latkes, their qualities tirelessly. Ironically, talked her way into the tent of the Assyrian commander, Holofernes, and fed him cheese – lots of salty onion-tinged aroma filling the the French Parliament had pro- cheese. When he got thirsty, she plied him with wine. He got drunk, fell asleep, and Judith separated house. I can picture my Bubbie hibited cultivation of the potato the general from his head. When his troops saw what had happened, they fled. Judith’s story is con- standing over a hot stove, fry- due to the belief that it caused nected to the holiday by virtue of her standing up against the powerful, just as the Maccabees did. ing up those round fritters for disease, and the law remained us to gobble up. She was doing on the books despite Parmenti- You may indeed lose your head over these delicious, soft-as-a-pillow dumplings! as her mother, and her mother er’s work, until 1772. However, before her, had done. I contin- potatoes eventually became Ingredients: ue the custom. (Of course, with popular, spreading from France 4 medium Russet or Idaho potatoes the advent of the food proces- to Eastern Europe. sor, the lack of knuckle skin Only two years later, as 1 large egg, beaten courtesy of the vegetable grater repeated crop failures plagued 1 teaspoon salt may change the outcome of the Europe, Czar Frederick the 1½ cups flour recipe a bit.) Great of Prussia ordered 6 Tablespoons unsalted butter But, how far back does the farmers to plant potatoes to 1 cup bread or cornflake crumbs tradition actually go? Given counter the possibility of mass ¾ cup sugar the fact that there were no starvation. Because potatoes 1 teaspoon cinnamon potatoes in Judaea when the grow more quickly in a variety Maccabees were fighting Antio- of weather conditions, wide- chus back in second century spread famine was averted. Directions: BCE, it is highly unlikely that Thus did the potato become Peel potatoes and cut into large chunks. Jews were eating latkes back integral to Eastern European Boil until fork tender, between 10 and 20 minutes. when that legendary cruse of cuisine – and a staple of the Mash the potatoes. oil lasted eight days. Ashkenazi menu. Shtetl Jews, So, what about those mostly poor and hungry, loved While the potatoes are still warm, place them into a mixing bowl and add egg, salt and flour. spuds? Despite its long as- the tuber, and it was on their Mix well. sociation with the Emerald menu more than often. A pop- Knead until a soft dough is formed, adding additional flour if necessary. Isle, the potato did not come ular Yiddish children’s song On a floured surface, and with floured hands, roll out a handful of dough into a long strip. from Ireland. In fact, potatoes confirms its ubiquity: Cut the strip into 3/4” pieces. were unknown in Europe until after 1537, when the Spanish On Sunday, potatoes; on Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. forces of conquistador Gonzalo Monday, potatoes; Working in batches, drop pieces into the water and let them Jimenez de Quesada landed On Tuesday and Wednes- simmer until they float to the top. in what is now Colombia to day, potatoes; on Friday, Remove with a slotted spoon. search for gold. They found potatoes. In a separate pan over low heat, melt butter. potatoes. The tubers, origi- On Sabbath, a novelty – nating in their wild form in potato kugel. Add bread crumbs and stir until browned and toasted. the mountainous regions of On Sunday, potatoes again. Add shlishkes and toss until coated. Peru and Bolivia, had proba- Bread with potatoes, meat Roll the shlishkes in a mixture of sugar and cinnamon. bly been cultivated there for with potatoes, lunch and Enjoy! thousands of years already, dinner. and archaeologists have Potatoes, potatoes over and Bread menorah and dreidl found remains on the shores over again. of Lake Titicaca that date One meal is a novelty – the from 400 BCE. Experts have potato pie. counted over 4,000 varieties of On Sunday, potatoes again! Carol Goodman Kaufman is a psychologist and author with a passion for travel and food. She is potatoes, ranging in color from currently at work on a food history/cookbook, tracing the paths that some of our favorite foods have white to yellow, red to purple, Monotony aside, the potato, taken from their origins to appear on dinner plates and in cultural rites and artifacts around the as well as about 180 wild, containing every essential world. She invites readers to read her blog at carolgoodmankaufman.com and to follow her on non-edible ones. vitamin and mineral except Twitter @goodmankaufman. Although the Incans prized calcium and vitamins A and D,

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